You should update LinX with newest linpack from Intel. Check the first post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius
Printable View
You should update LinX with newest linpack from Intel. Check the first post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius
Ok, so I have ran into a strange issue. I recently swapped out my 980x for an E5640 and for the life of me I cannot get my ram to run at 1600Mhz at 6-6-6-16-1t which it has ran at for almost a year now. Basically, I changed out the chip and now I cannot get the ram to run at these settings. It will boot, but as soon as I sign into Windows it locks up or seems to. I say that as there is still activity from the HD like it is still loading. Both the LED on the MB and the HD activity light are still blinking randomly like it is loading into Windows. Pretty much all my settings but voltages and the BCLK/multi are the same as my 980x was at. Voltages are as follows:
vcore - 1.35v
CPU PLL - 1.8v
VTT - 1.3v
Ram - 1.65v
IOH - 1.25v
The rest are on auto. As far as my other settings go, the usual CPU features are turned off. All the bios settings but ram, bclk, multi and uncore are set to default or auto. Under auto it sets the ram at 9-9-9-24-1t at 1600Mhz. Now, I am not sure if this is the issue, but I did have some Artic Ceramique get into the socket and I got it cleaned almost all out. It was on one pin, but the top of the pin is clean, just not the base of the pin. Not sure how to clean the rest out or if it is the culprit. Also, at 4.2Ghz with the ram set to auto it will pass 1 hour of OCCT Linpack, but I just tried rebooting it at those settings and it failed. I know I don't have a template up and there is probably some other info you might need to troubleshoot the issue, so just let me know what you need. Anyone think it is the Enermac EVO 950watt PSU?. The gear in my sig is correct except for the cpu and I am only running two GTX470's. Any ideas would be helpful and again I can list my bios template if needed.
Thanks.
It sounds like your new chip wants more VTT!
I'd tend to agree that you may need to apply more VTT.
Don't forget that the memory controller is located on the CPU, so how your memory performs has a lot to do with how each individual CPU performs - especially at the extremes.
Hi
I recently finshed my build that contains 980x and this memory set: CMG6GX3M3A2000C8 Dominator GT 6GB Kit.
I am running the following a OC setup stable:
CPU: 4.00 Ghz
RAM: 2000 Mhz
BCLK: 200
Multiplier: 20
Vcore - 1.26v
QPI/DRAM - 1.35v
Ram - 1.65v
I have a question am i running my QPI/DRAM voltage to high or is this ok?
Thanks in advance.
That's a perfect voltage for that set of ram.Quote:
Originally Posted by Niket
1.4v QPI/VTT is the limit you want to go for the 980x and 970.
What's the Batch # on that 980x of yours you lucky $%$er, that's some nice voltage for 4Ghz, you could probably do 4.2Gh with 21x200bclk @ 1.3000Quote:
Originally Posted by Niket
Can anyone comment on how bios 1005 compares to the previous ones, and 1102? In relation to both Gulftown and Bloomfield.
Also, I have a issue I can't seem to figure out. Okay so according to Don and ctskl1, this board overvolts everything by 0.02v correct? I know this varies from board to board, but let's say it's around 0.02v. For me in the bios (1005), the DRAM voltage stays normal up to 1.627, but becomes yellow at 1.634. What does this exactly mean? I can't remember where I saw or read this, but the R3E doesn't want the memory voltage to be set higher than 1.65v w/o causing damage to the CPU correct? Is that why the voltage turns yellow at 1.634v? 1.634+.02v= 1.65v?
I have a set of Dominator GTs 2000C8 MGH-E Hypers and want to know whether I should set them at 1.62975v in bios (~1.65v actual) or set them to 1.65625v. I have not tested the board with a multimeter. Can I rely on what the bios is telling me by yellowing the DRAM voltage? How much can you overvolt memory without damaging or degrading it?
Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.
Has anyone been having a mysterious alarm on your mobo going off occasionally? Every few days a loud alarm goes off on my mobo, ear piercing to say the least and well when I manage to get Everest launched I find absolutely nothing wrong with any of the temps. The alarm lasts from either a few seconds to until I restart. Weird...
do you have real temp installed and it's alarm feature enabled? it's saved my GTX 480's @ 100c a couple times.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
No, I do not have real temp installed, lol. The NB hits 60C average, and the GPU seems to hit 60C as well, but for the most part everything else runs much cooler, mid to high 30's to lower 40's. Nothing unusual... I have my bios at stock settings too..... :confused: Below are the sensor readings, anything unusual I should be concerned about?Quote:
Originally Posted by VoXPCS
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k1...me/sensors.jpg
Time to water cool the mobo and set my v's, lol....
Anyone have a solid and healthy 4 Ghz template to share?
You could try updating the BIOS. 1005 has some great improvments over the stock BIOS. 1102 is even better for i7 series temp readings. Though it's very beta and unreleased "offically" anywhere. I've been running it for about a week now. No issues.
Oh cool, Ill wait for 1102 official then. Since I was no longer overclocked for much of the summer I decided I did not need to update the bios each release for a while, but see'ing as there have been several releases since 0802, I might as well get current. Ordering the Ek mobo block tonight as I might be on this mobo a few years, lol, or until ICH11R is released....Quote:
Originally Posted by VoXPCS
So I think I solved my issue. I got the socket completely cleaned out using some spray cleaner made for electronics. Anyway, I would have never thought that non-conductive paste the size of a pin head could cause me this much of a headache. Once it was cleaned out, the board booted into W7 with my ram at 6-6-6-16-1t with no adjustments on the voltages. So far it has past 40 minutes of OCCT Linpack with no issues. Oh well, live and learn I guess.
And thanks for the suggestions everyone.
Well I bought a waterblock on the mainboard a day ago and temps dropped dramatically!
Before with the stock cooling I had temps in idle 65-70c with a big 120mm fan blowing on it... without any fans the temps went to 85-90c IDLE :lol: OVER 100c playing, that shut down the system because of BIOS max temps were reached.
Anyway, temps are now idle 40-44c give or take. Keep in mind I have GTX470 and 4.2GHz i7 in the same loop with just 3x120mm fans at 5v pushing air on it. Room temp is 23-25c. Warm lol.
http://img235.imagevenue.com/loc74/t...7_122_74lo.jpghttp://img287.imagevenue.com/loc501/..._122_501lo.jpghttp://img165.imagevenue.com/loc463/..._122_463lo.jpg
Hardly recommend this but for 120euros.... robbery.
With my 980x, 1102 corrected the cpu temp issue (stuck at very low temp when cold and very slow to react when warm) and applied a new microcode patch.Quote:
Originally Posted by VoXPCS
1005 was a little more stable if you push memory at its limit.
I think that a new version of BIOS 11xx will be put on official channels sooner or later, with some more performance tuning.
I think motherboard and vga is too hot.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
Here is mine i7960@4.2 ht on and ram 2000Mhz with 21c ambient
Does anyone have an idea why my mobo would sound an alarm for a few seconds to a few minutes with all temps ok?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brama
Yeah I know its to hot, but if the alarm default is set at 100C in the bios, why would the alarm go off when it is only 60C at the time? lolQuote:
Originally Posted by zpaf
I need to get my mobo block I guess...
did you use the big HS with the fan ? or redo the tim ?Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
Nope and Nope. I felt the 60C was not high enough to go thru that trouble when I also knew that I wanted to water cool the mobo. Im not running it overclocked. My plan was to get the EK block to deal with the temps sooner or later, but I been procrastinating on that mod. My point is though, is 60C the reason why the alarm goes off? Or could it be spiking higher and Im just missing it? Or could I have a defective mobo? 60C seems low for an alarm to go off, when it clearly shows 100C in the bios.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom7184
EK on the way I guess... lol
EDIT: will my Swiftech MCP655 Pump and ThermoChill PA120.3 Rad handle both the CPU and mobo at the same time? lol
I got a similar setup running man with a 970 at 4.2 and full EK waterblock... no biggie for that setup...
Ok thanks... :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
I'm also getting terrible 3D scores with bios 1005...what gives?? Is it the same deal with bios 1102?
EDIT: Testing Bios 1102 for myself just to compare between 0901, 1005, and 1102. So far 1102 is a HUGE improvement over 1005. I don't know why it gives such terrible 3D scores but those who are thinking the board is the problem, try the new 1102 or older 0901 bios. 1005 specifically seems to be the problem.
Anyways, will be posting results shortly..
UPDATE: So far have tested Bios 0602, 0901, and 1102. Same configuration to maintain a baseline for comparison: i7-920 @ stock clocks all auto and msi gtx 470 stock clocks with PNY GT 240 dedicated PhysX processor. So far Bios 0901 has the highest 3DMark Vantage score. Now in the process of testing 0704, afterwards which I will test 0802 then retest 1005 and report back.
FINAL UPDATE:
**Not sure what happened with the bios flash the first time around...but during this test session, I cleared CMOS before every flash just to keep things clean. Bios 1005 isn't so bad after all...
3DMARK VANTAGE 1.0.2 'Performance' Setting
i7-920 @ Stock
GTX 470 (Stock) + PNY GT240
Win7 Ultimate x64
BIOS Ver.: 0704, 1005, 0901, 0802, 1102, 0602
3DMarks: 17373, 17271, 17271, 17266, 17226, 17189
GPU Score: 14909, 14893, 14915, 14870, 14875, 14837
CPU Score: 34446, 33156, 32832, 33427, 32761, 32781
Anyone get ROG connect to work with the Iphone? I cannot get the BT to connect to the Iphone and what's really wierd is that once I loaded the BT drivers, if I push the BT button on the back making it lit, that actually turns the BT off and with it unlit the BT is on, sound right?
IMO your posts shows that all the bios are pretty much equal taking standard bench deviation into account :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolindsm127
Yes, I had the same confusion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Push it, it lights up and it's on. Now take your phone attempt to connect to it by selecting the RC Bluetooth from the devices in the RC TweakIT program.
Took me a few tries to get it, mine does work, but then again I'm on an HTC EvO running Android.
My RC_Bluetooth never connects to or is detected by the iPhone, whilst other cell phones can detect, connect and pair with it.
:down:
Yea that is also what I realized, there is not a huge difference between the different bioses. However, there is a difference though and when it comes to benching people want to squeeze every bit of performance for higher scores ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
You are right regarding taking the standard bench deviation into account. But just FYI, I posted those results in order from highest to lowest score. That order doesn't relate to the order they were tested in. I started testing with bios 0602 when system was just warmed up, then kept trying the other bioses without taking a break inbetween. I am going to retest them all again, but this time I will let the system warm up for half hour, test, shut it down for an hour, then repeat with the other bioses. This should give a better idea of how each bios performs. Also, Speed Step, Turbo, TM, and C1E will be disabled.
I just built up a system yesterday on the RIIIE on water and so far I am liking it.:D Swapped out the bios to 1005 and it runs my 920 at 4416 with 1.34v no problem which was what the P6T did except this board is much more fun to play with. I also swapped my swifty GTZ for a EK supreme HF and the load temps are certainly better.
Just build the R3E. Need some advise from user here. I flash the bios from 0901 to 1005 and I realised windows boot up and shutdown take longer time as compared to 0901. Also when doing light OC for my 980X 3.33 to 3.6 sometimes during boot will shown OC fail. This never happened with 0901. Anyone here encounter similar problem?
Which bios version considered the best till now for this board. I've read that 1102 (beta) also have some issue. So do you think I should revert back to 0901?
Thank you
I like 901.. If there's no reason to change, why??
Started retesting bioses 0704, 0802, 0901, and 1005 (only officials) and am testing 1005 now. So far, Bios 0901 is the best. Most likely this will be the bios I stick with.
As far as the slow bootup, I experience this also but for me it happens only once and ONLY when I flash either TO bios 1005 or FROM Bios 1005 to a different bios e.g. 0901. Every other bios I flashed to the system would restart and boot up normally. But only when I flash to bios 1005, the system restarts and 'hangs' for a few seconds. During this time the monitor goes to standby, and some of the lights on the board turn off and the Q_LED DRAM light is lit. It seems to me it is doing some type of longer memory check or bios microcode update which takes a while. Don't know the reason behind this but only happens with Bios 1005.
I also recommend clearing CMOS before and after flashing bioses. Will be posting all bios results shortly.
Ok here are the results. In order to try and get the most accurate comparison I kept all variables as consistent as possible.
As mentioned before, first 45 mins after cold boot up system was left idling for 45 mins before running benchmarks. Shut it down after to cool off for an hour before testing a different Bios. Used same procedure for all four Bioses.
System:
i7-920 @ Stock Clocks
-EIST, C1E, Turbo, TM Function ALL DISABLED
MSI GTX 470 @ Stock Clocks + PNY GT 240 @ Stock Clocks
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
3DMARK VANTAGE 1.0.2 'Performance' Setting
BIOS: 0704, 0802, 0901, 1005
3DMarks: 17143.6, 17173.8, 17267.5, 17145.9
GPU Score: 14843.7, 14864.0, 14936.8, 14855.3
CPU Score: 32034.4, 32172.2, 32464.5, 31904.1
The slow bootup started once I flashed to 1005 and ever since. I revert back to 0901 and the problems no more existing. I have yet to test the 1102.Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolindsm127
Bios 1102 was decent but 0901 still came up on top. Until a new official is released most likely 0901 will be the optimal choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by borntowin
And as far as 3DMark Vantage scores I noticed something very interesting when using the GT 240 addon card as dedicated PhysX. When I uninstalled the GT 240 and tested only the single gtx 470 my CPU scores jumped about 10,000 points :eek:. 3DMarks and GPU score also went up, although not so significantly as CPU score. Don't know what is happening there but clearly I'm better off with just a single 470.
Im pretty new to all this and havnt buit a Computer in Years. I read some basic OC Guides and here is what I did
http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...Build/42GZ.jpg
Were should I go from here?
Is it possible to use RC Tweak instead of TurboEVO ? On you own machine I mean.
I can't find the "first post" you're talking about.Quote:
Originally Posted by donmarkoni
is this right?
Doing Windows 7 x64 install tonight...
Do you guys specify S during install to load ACHI and Sata Drivers... Or just install them after Windows installation is complete.
I'm running a Raid 0 SSD on the Sata II Intel Controller, and a Single 600gb Raptor on the Sata III Marvel Controller...
Thanks,
Roydrage
You can do it either way.
I had mine setup in IDE on the 6.0Gb/s channel just because I forgot to change it as I was going through my install... then I changed it to AHCI using this link.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/922976
Go with AHCI for the install imo.
Also, don't forget to upgrade the firmware on your SSD's before you do the reinstall.
Upgrading the firmware wipes the Data on an SSD so can't really be done on the fly.
Sounds like a good time to do it.
Here's the LinkQuote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius
Stupid TS didn't put the link in the 1st post
I'm not reinstalling... Doing it for the first time.. Just finished the build...Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius
Royd
Just finished my Dual loop rig. Took me awhile because I had to RMA 6 Asus Rampage III Extreme's but I finally got it done. here are the specs. I plan to overclock to beast to death. Let me know what you think of it.
Base System
CUP: Intel I7 930
Memory: Corsair Dominator GT CMTGX3M3A1600C7 6GB Kit
Kingston HyperX KHX Memory Cooler fan
Motherboard: Asus Rampage III Extreme
2 x Powercolor HD 5870 LCS Video Cards (Crossfire)
Case: Corsair 800D Obsidian (Modified)
PSU: Corsair AX1200
Optical Drives: LG LG WH10LS30K Blu-Ray Burner
Samsung DVD Burner
Monitor: Dell UltraSharp U2711
CUP/Chipset Water Loop
CPU Waterblock: EK Waterblocks EK-Supreme HF-Full Nickel
Chipset Waterblock: EK Waterblocks EK-FB RE3
Reservoir: XSPC Acrylic D5 Tank Reservoir for one Laing D5 / MCP655
Pump: MCP655
Radiator: Swiftech MCR320-QP
Flow Meter: Koolance INS-FM17N Coolant Flow Meter wit Frequency Adapter
Fans: 3 x Scythe SP1225FDB12H Kama Flow2 Series 120mm Case Fan
Bitspower shining silver fittings
Koolance BKT-HX001 Radiator Mounting Bracket with Quick-Release
Water Tubing: Tygon R3603 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD
GPU Water Loop
Reservoir: Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 - POM/Acetal
Radiator: Feser-X-Changer 360
Pump: Custom Laing D5 - Bitspower Black Sparkle Dress Kit & Top
Flow Meter: Koolance INS-FM17N Coolant Flow Meter with Frequency Adapter
Water Tubing: Tygon R3603 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD
Fans: 3 x Delta AFB 1212L- 2 x Scythe Scythe "SLIP STREAM SLIM" 120 x 12mm Fan - High Speed
Fan Controller: Scythe KM03-BK KAZE MASTER PRO
Bitspower shining silver fittings:):):):)
is the nec and the renesas driver the same for the r3e?
i mean firmware and driver (usb3)
nice one Coolbreeze
Yeah, sorry :( I mixed up thread I was reading, was thinking of LinX 4.5GHz stable club.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius
You can also use the link owikh84 provided.
I don't know who are you referring to by "TS", but the only stupid guy was me. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by owikh84
@Coolbreeze Great setup! :up:
Koolance full cover block !
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/9820/dsc01080cc.jpg
Is there anywhere in the uk that sells that full cover block!
Dunno UK, but i got it here
http://www.highflow.nl/water-blocks/...-mb-asr3e.html
There are so many things wrong with that block that it makes me want to vomit. Just like 90% of koolance products I see.Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
GREAT SPOT for the barb... BLOCKING A PCI-E x16 slot.
Not only that... It's obvious they ripped off the EK design.
I disagree ! And moreQuote:
Originally Posted by zoson
this one is on the 3rd slot
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/8404/dsc01085r.jpg
and this one on the 4th
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/5223/dsc01086un.jpg
Also the placement of the barbs on this block gives a better flow then the EK one.
So your saying the EK has so many things wrong with it as well? If they ripped off the design from EK yet so many things are wrong with it and everyone likes the EK design, than by your reasoning I can only conclude that both are excellent blocks OR terrible blocks....Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
@ AceBaran
a card on the 3rd slot well be block the barb with a card with a rear exhast cooler
@SkOrPn: Way to be contrarian.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
They ripped off the design from the first pci-e socket up, and moved the barb from the logical spot to the bottom, where it makes no sense. As others illustrated to me here, flowrate is really overrated and in a compelx loop no single 'high flow' component is going to make or break your temps.
@Ace: Any card with a stock heatsink that exhausts with a blower will block the barb. Also, any card with a swiftech unisink, like my GTX275's would block it.
:ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
Damn near all full cover water blocks are the same. Hardly call it 'ripped off.' Plus the fact that the Koolance block was actually released before the EK.
While I personally do not like the barb at the bottom, it does have its benefits.
Guys some advice plz
we all know the issues with the Marvell controller, I have now purchased a C300 64 gb that I intend to use Non raid as a Win 7 boot drive.
Question do I put it on the Marvell or the ICH10R.
I will be running my other 2 C300s on the ICH10R
cheers
Rick
So you already have two C300's that you aren't using on a 6Gbps controller? And you bought another one as well? If you can afford to I would invest in an LSI 9211-4i controller http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-114-_-Product. The Marvell controller isn't bad for a single drive. But having two C300's on ICH10R is severly bottlenecking them.
Then waterblock on all cards !! :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom7184
Lower barb also makes bleeding very easy !
I am currently running my C300s on the Marvell with no issues but keep being told ICH10R is the way to go,windows is sitting on a 45 gb partition that is part of the raid array, I wanted to put windows on its own drive, so the 65 gb idea seemed the way to go, some ppl have said in the past that the throughput using a single ssd on the marvell is very good.
First time anyone ever mentioned they would bottleneck on the Intel !!
thanx for the suggestion lowfat, but I have no space left to for an addin card
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/v...ek/gtgreen.jpg
Still unsure what to do ... any other suggestions would be appreciated.
ICH10R is only a Sata 3Gbps controller. Try to take a single drive and run AS SSD on both ICH10R and the Marvell controller and run AS SSD on them. The difference should be large difference between then. A good 25%. However the Marvell controller can't handle the bandwidth of more than one drive. So if you were to install your two current RAIDed SSDs on to a good 6Gbps capable controller like the LSI 9211-4i I mentioned above, you would gain a good 150MB/s in sequential read speeds.Quote:
Originally Posted by fmsam
I have question abotu two ez-plug connector on mobo - when i must use them ? I have two 470's.
They are to prevent too much current being pulled through the 24 pin atx connector like done hereQuote:
Originally Posted by Malik
Not sure if two GTX470's can pull that much current but I would definitely suggest using the 4 pin connectors if at all possible.
and fmsam, get a single slot pci adapter for your 2nd videocard. Throw the RAID card in the x4 slot. x4 should still easily provide enough bandwidth for 2-3 SSD's.
Gday peeps been searching this thread for a 4k-4.2k 24/7 setup using the REIII and 980x. I've found one or two people are asking help on and lots for other chips.
Can someone please post BIOS template for a nice working system.
Finally had time to move parts around so that that I have the reIII/980x water cooled, nice to see those lowww temps. Using the EK FC block so the nb/sb temps are staying around 35c at full load.
Oh and don't forget to install that BT board before you install the mobo, cause she ain't fitting in after the fact :lol:
The big thing to do on the 980x is to reduce the voltage on the CPU PLL from 1.8v to 1.45v. I couldn't get my 980x to do 4Ghz before I did that, then I was able to do 4.2Ghz pretty easy.
I was going to mention that Koolance's RIIIE block was released weeks before anyone else's, but I figured he would have had an excuse for that as well... Just another case of a brand hating without any hard evidence brought to the table. At this point they could release the best block on earth but it will always be flawed just because its labeled Koolance...Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
A few years ago Koolance hate could have been justified. Not so much anymore. My Koolance GTX460 blocks I have are the best blocks I have ever owned. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
Guys...
Running 2 Corsair SSD in Raid 0, on Intel Controller... Windows 7 Pro installed like a Breeze... No Problems... BUT
I have installed a WD Raptor 600gb on the Marvell Controller running Sata3 I shows in the BIOS, but NOT in Windows... I have tried both AHCI, and IDE, and no go...
Any suggestions?
RoydRage
Hi RoydRage
In the bios under tools, did you check the driver expert page ?, with just 1 drive it needs to be set to normal mode, not super speed or ez-back up.
hopefully this will fix your issue
i can use only one - this one on the top, near pcie nr 1. The second one, on the bottom is blocked by the psu. So i will try with only one ez-plug. What do you think ? This is good idea ?Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
I only use one w/ my system at the moment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Malik
One is better than none.
Wow.. I got excited for a second...Quote:
Originally Posted by fmsam
One problem was I had to initialize it in windows disk management.
I set it to MBR partition... and assigned a drive letter... But for some reason Windows cannot format it! unable to use drive...
I tried this in both IDE, and AHCI mode in Bios.
Any other ideas Please!:brick:
Royd Rage
Sorry if this has been answer before. When boot it shown 6136mb ram, i thought it supposed to be 6144? But what CPUz report was 6144. Both my Corsair Dominator GT and G.Skill Ripjaw having the same result. Any advise? Thank you.
Are you serious?? There's people having problems when a entire stick (that's 2GB!) isn't read resulting in only 4GB (4088MB~) of ram...or when people install 12GB and get only 6GB or 8GB to show. You're worried about 8MB?? You're fine man :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by borntowin
:D just curious who stole my precious 8MB :)Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolindsm127
When I think Koolance I think "trash"
Then you are mistaken. Do some research and actually look into their products. Lesson was learned and fixed and never looking back. They revolutionized the quick disconnect and actually made them into a great product for the LC community. No more ugly ass drain and fillports drilled into uber expensive cases.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius
While I dont really think the R3E Koolance block is for me (I went EK) I never discount them because of the name.
Werd. Their current lineup of blocks are among the best. And most definitely some of the most attractive gear out as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by turtletrax
I have a problem..
Got a brand new r3e.. and now it wont boot :/ the ledfans in my case just blink at me is all !..
Ive got everything connected right. using 1 8pin using 2 8 pin, changed mems, tried 1, 2 and 3 in memsocket.
tried with soundcard and without.. got the cpu and motherboard block on! loosend the cpu one a bit aswell. Still same :/
Check your Q-Connector , if you're using it or check your "Pwr" connector to the motherboard. It's probably upside down? Something is seated incorrectly or all the way in. Your 24 main power isn't connected tight enough... check RAM... lastly.. turn your power supply on.. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
Anyone here encounter the same issue? thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by borntowin
checked it all! mounted and remounted everything on the MB..Quote:
Originally Posted by VoXPCS
Cold boot no go here.. Really puzzling :/
Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
Did it boot with stock NB heatsink assy on? I always take the time to test a new board fully on air before I put all my blocks on. Nothing worse then spending all the time to get your blocks on perfectly and have no boot.
And the R3E I had die on me did the same thing. It would try to power on for a sec or two then kinda gimp out. Ended up RMAing. Nice thing is I got a new retail box back. I was quite happy since the only other Asus RMA I ever had they send the board back to me with a "nothing to fix" sticker on it. Man that p|ssed me off.
No! thats the bad thing about it :/ ive hooked up everything from the start.. never thought of testing it first :/Quote:
Originally Posted by turtletrax
I did get a boot into bios just now ! then i thought ok fixed.. tried rebooting same :banana::banana::banana::banana: !!!!
Now tried 5x allready again no boot. wth :/
Not sure this will help. But I encounter that with R2E.Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
1. Clear CMOS
2. Unplug all cable.
3. Remove all your RAM. PCIe....
4. Remove your cmos battery and wait for 5-10 mins and insert back the battery.
5. Put back everything and boot it up.
Hope it help. At least my last R2E having the same issue as you.
Sorry for my bad inglish.Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
You have 2 bios. You start in 2º bios ?
Nothing wrong with your english.. ive tried to boot 1st and 2nd bios also tried to update bios trough rog connect ..Quote:
Originally Posted by SOYLINDA
this is surely a power issiue.. cant think of anything else.. but where is the problem :banana::banana::banana::banana: :banana::banana::banana::banana: :banana::banana::banana::banana: :P
Trying this now !Quote:
Originally Posted by borntowin
Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
Have you tired removing the waterblocks and try air? Perhaps the Koolance is shorting or somehow causing boot failure.
Quit all grafics, memory, conector disks...
Connect speaker...
Start yes... no ? sound speaker ?
bah no luck >_<
Could it ?Quote:
Originally Posted by turtletrax
Ok ill try
Got one for a really good deal myself so I'll post some results.Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxom101
I noticed your running x21 the correct for this cpu is x23.
The only thing that has been 'decent' in their recent history is their cpu block. And even that was a piece of crap because it was so restrictive. I've done the research.Quote:
Originally Posted by turtletrax
Sure they do quick connects, but all they did was shrink car technology. Nothing more. They're not innovative. They're cheap copycats.
You can tell no lesson was learned because of the position of the outlet barb on their northbridge block. Not to mention I think the full shiny polished top is terrible looking. The inside of my computer case isn't Puerto Rico.
I'm not discounting them because of the name, I'm discounting them because they've sucked for their entire history. Sell me something that's easy to use, and useful.Quote:
Originally Posted by turtletrax
Ok you have made your point! you dont like Koolance.. Got it! :up: .. move on ?Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
Anyway.. I thought i was gonna lose my mind ., but got my prob fixed..
It was my case fanns causing the problem.. i disconnected them and booted my pc and it booted.. so i then connected them 1 by one and now got it fixed pffffweh..
Tnx all for trying to help me !!!!
Edit : my NB used to be 63 now 33
my SB used to be 59 now 31
Damn, those NB SB temps are GREAT!, I really think I should Reseat my blocks, god knows How much TM i applied... and also how bad the contact is. EK really pissed me off with the mobo block though, the little black spacers...... Took me 30 minutes to figure out that you weren't supposed to put 2 spacers on these 2 holes.. :/Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
me on the R2E and R3E now (WaterCooling) I always had the SB a bit hotter than the NB
this is normal?
Like I said earlier the Koolance block really has its benefits. And I can agree about those spacers on EK blocks. I had a rather difficult time w/ my E760.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookiesowns
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
I defer to your obvious expertise then :rolleyes:
Is it possible these numbers northbridge/southbridge to be true ?