Calm down guys, gimme a few minutes to gather my head (epic night out :D ) and I'll get some screenshots of the settings I use.
Calm down guys, gimme a few minutes to gather my head (epic night out :D ) and I'll get some screenshots of the settings I use.
Oh sorry, i didnt think it could be possible. My mistake. What did you enable/disable in ur UEFI to get that vcore? i can;t seem to get anywhere near it.Quote:
Originally Posted by radier
woah that is one lucky chip! or are we not doing it right? i'm trying so hard to get 4.7GHz stable without 1.35V. so far, haven't been successful. but this is a 2600k, so it should be harder to OC than a 2500K anyways, right?
btw, sometimes the PC would freeze when running Prime 95 instead of getting an error or a BSOD. What could be the reason for that?
Nah, about the same. 2600K might even be a little easier because they are binned higher.
^do want! :P oh and ss of what you enabled/disabled in the cpu settings please :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
some success using the default 4.6gig option in the bios booting and running prime smooth for an hour so far temps not going above 63, but vcore jumps from 1.33 to 1.36 during the tests, going to get IBT running today also and try and tweak the bios some more, most likely my chip just needs the vcore i am thinking
man! which cooler do you have? i'm at 1.368V in CPU-Z running Prime95 and the temps are around 82C!! 20C difference is wicked, or maybe i haven't seated the cooler correctly. hmmm
i'm using the notcua NH-d14 with MX 4 paste both fans full speed which is 1300 rpm so still pretty quiet
Heres the screenshots. Ignore vcore I loaded a slightly older profile by mistake instead of the newer one where I'm at 1.33-1.34v.
nice. but i didn't think the difference would be this big! of course my ambient temp is kinda high, around 27C, and the case is stuffed up so it is not helping either.Quote:
Originally Posted by orb
finally i was able to find a NH-D14 here in Japan. It's around $110! yikes!! No thanks.
Why "Additional Turbo Voltage"? does it really do anything?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
If additional turbo voltage is left on auto it'll just adjust to what it thinks is needed based on VID values. When running fixed vcore like I am you don't need it doing that, hence setting it manually to the lowest setting.
Fixed voltage sux.
Fixed voltage works just fine.
Got few issues with the board which are not related to overclocking.
1. I cannot go into windows when my iPhone is plugged in. I have enabled legacy support for USB 2.0 in efi, so if I disable it I can go into windows when the phone is plugged in. But then I cannot go into efi because the keyboard (g15 v2) doesn't work at POST. But works in windows. Also efi froze when I plugged in the phone while it was in legacy mode. Quite lame, if u ask me. Or, is there something I can do? I think I cannot shutdown the PC when the phone or a flash drive was connected as well. It repeatedly rebooted, but have to confirm this. Former one is a sure thing.
2. I have my headset plugged into the rear audio ports. I was to plug in the speakers as well. I my old board, with alc889, it let me remap the ports for whatever purpose I needed. I could turn the line in port to the speaker out port. A popup dialogbox would come up when I plug in a device, letting me choose what kind of device that was. While the jacksensing seems to work with alc892 on this board as a balloontip showing a new device plugged in comes up, I cannot choose the type of the device. Of course I can plug it to front audio port. (maybe not a problem with the board)
3. Asked this question before but didn't get an answer. Why doesn't it switch to my hd5870 automatically when I launch Crysis 2? Manually stopping virtu from system tray right click menu works fine. I have added the game to the list of supported games as well. Not a big issue, but it should work as advertised. (again, maybe not a problem with the board)
All drivers are from the opening post + sound from asrock site + virtu from their site.
About overclocking. I am starting from the scratch. Need to get 4.5 stable first. 4.5 @ 1.3V wasn't stable as I got an error after 6 hrs of Prime. All settings identical to ket's except vcore and I need the power saving options. Maybe I need a new cooler as well. I though these chips ran MUCH cooler than my i5 750, but i5 750@3.8GHz@1.25V temps and 2600k@4.5GHz@1.3V are identical. I know the settins are favoring the 2600k but I though I'd get better thermals even then.
Any heatsink recommendations over MUX-120 push/pull w/ 1k RPM fans?
1. Enable / Disable Legacy USB so your phone works as it should and switch your keyboard to a USB2/3 port, so it should then work as it should. Basically what I'm saying here is have your phone connected to a USB3 or 2 port, and say if you have the phone connected to a USB3 port, put your keyboard on a USB2 port.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anusha
2. Try the latest Realtek generic drivers.
3. Make sure you have the latest Virtu driver. I haven't experienced any problems when the display has been connected to the IGPU when it comes to automatically switching to discrete graphics. I assume you have made sure the discrete graphics are "enabled" in the Virtu CP, and thus available to switch to?
ah now i get it. that simple ha? i'll connect the iPhone to a USB3 port then, keeping the KB on the USB2.0. legacy support for USB3.0 is disabled already, so i won't have to do any changes in efi i guess. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
OK mate. I was do that when I get back home. That's in another 10hrs, dammit!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
ah the version on realtek site is 2.62 while the one on Asrock website is 2.55. hopefully this fixes it.
Wait a second. Which port do I have to plug the monitor cable to? Currently I have it plugged into the video card, not the iGPU. There are two modes of operation, right? d-mode and i-mode? is that mode automatically selected when i choose which port to connect the monitor to?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
i guess you don't have Crysis 2 to check if it works fine with for you, ha?
btw, I have to latest virtu drivers from lucid site.
The idea with Virtu is that most stuff you do (web, movies, general desktop stuff) the IGPU does, and for that to happen you need to plug your monitor cable into the port on the mobo. Once thats done simply go into the Virtu CP, make sure your discrete graphics is "enabled" and your set. When a 3D app is detected it should switch to the discrete graphics automatically. I don't have Crysis2, don't even get me started on why I don't own that steaming pile of monkey feasies :p:
Oh, and make sure you have the Etron USB3 v1.1 driver it resolves a LOT of device compatibility issues.
lol. OK OK. you don't have to own it. but that's pretty much the only game I play these days. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
as far as i know, having the monitor plugging into the iGPU port will have a slight performance hit rather than when it is connected to the discrete graphics port. isn't this the difference between the d-mode and the i-mode? but the issue is weird. i mean, if it doesn't use the iGPU as i have connected the cable to the discrete port is understandable, but other-way-round is weird? (connected to the discrete port, but used iGPU?) i wonder if it has something to do with me running Sapphire Trixx in the background overclocking purposes. will debug more when i get my overclock stable. first things first. XD
I've had the monitor connected to the discrete graphics as well. IGPU will kick in for tasks its best suited to, if any, depending on what discrete graphics card you have. As far as the 2500k goes and the IGPU it uses, assuming you leave the IGPU part at stock anything with equal to or more than a GTX460 @ 902 / 4300 performance will best the IGPU at more or less everything. If you OC the IGPU though, even a heavily OCd GTX460 will probably fall to the IGPU when it comes to media encoding.
Hi Ket,
I was going to download your Win 7 64 bit driver set but noticed a few anomalies so I hope you can solve those for me :)
Broadcom BCM57781 LAN Driver v14.6.1.0
On the Asrock website you can download v14.6.4.2. Surely we should use the one from Asrock website?
Marvell SATA3 Driver v1.0.0.1051
Again as above, the version you can find in the asrock website is 1.2.0.1002.
Anyway, thanks for keeping this support thread. It is really useful!
Also, what does the latest BIOS fix in particular – CPU microcode doesn’t mean much to me :(
Cheers!
p.d - have you heard anything from Asrock regarding the eSata problem?
1. I prefer to use drivers directly from the source. The Marvell and Broadcom drivers were the latest available from the respective manufacturers at the time ;)
2. CPU microcode update is pretty significant by itself, I gained 200MHz for my 2500k :cool:
3. Its still being looked into. Try UEFI 1.5 and let me know if your eSATA problem is sorted out or not.
dammit! 4.5GHz @1.32V failed after 10 hours! arrrghhh!!! could it well be not only related to Vcore? i mean, the temps reach 80C at those settings in the day time. and it can only get worse as the peak of the summer reaches in a month or so.
do you think i should invest on a better cooler? maybe i should try reseating the HSF again.
Uhh... when you consider nothing in the real world will torture the CPU like Prime, IBT, or whatever you use does, 10hrs is stable really. I've seen brand new totally stock systems in the past fail Prime.. so that kinda says it all. Cooling is your choice, but I've used a CoolIT ECO (modded, better fans & TIM) and a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus. Both gave the same temps when running IBT which I'll admit was a bit of a let down. I hadn't excepted the ECO to demolish the 212+ but I had expected it to beat the 212+ by a comfortable 5c or so. If you are looking for a better cooler, you might have some luck with the Corsair H60, but again, Prime/IBT and the like put far more stress on the CPU than any real world application ever will. In reality, continuously running stress programs will hurt your hardware.
well, my question is, wouldn't temps cause it to fail prime instead of not having enough vcore? more vcore i put to make the chip stable, more heat is generated => the effect of vcore is countered by the temps so making it unstable once again. no?
btw, the latest realtek drivers didn't have that option the old GB mobo had. that's a let down! maybe the AC892 doesn't support unified ports? had no option but to plug the headset to the front audio ports.
however, plugging the phone into the USB3.0 ports AND disabling legacy support on USB3.0 (but keeping it enabled for USB2.0 for the KB) worked fine.
SB chips are odd things, you can pump more and more volts thrugh them and not gain any stability. I'd work on getting a slightly lower OC stable, then try simply turning up the multi. Every chip has its limits. Regards temps, simple logic. Go play any game or run any real world app thats considered demanding and I bet your temps will top out around 65c. Prime / IBT / whatever are designed to absolutely ravage the CPU, effectively showing instability that will only occur in situations you aren't ever going to run into.
not to stir up the pot, but i can understand the mentality of wanting to pass an extended torture test. systems that fail due to electrical instability tend to fail during peak bursts of activity, and this is generally the most inconvenient time for the system to fail. this is, for example, when someone in my house is streaming a transcoded video, and while downloading some torrents i start processing RAW photos, which momentarily tangle up my CPU with bursts of thumbnail generation, high memory usage, disk I/O, and JPG rendering. the only way to know that a system has the capacity to power through such peaks is to hit it with a maximum amount of randomized data processing at the maximum expected ambient temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
having a high-performance system that can run 24/7 without crashes or necessary reboots for days/weeks/months is a worthwhile pursuit, IMO.
I've found that to be absolutely untrue. Many times I used to run OCCT or something similar and OCCT would say all is well. I would then fire up a game or start BOINC and within minutes or even seconds the system would BSOD. The ONLY reliable way I've found to test any system is to run BOINC, it will load all the cores it detects to 100% and computes raw data, if a OC'd system survives BOINC, you ARE good. I've never had a single stability problem on my systems or other peoples when using BOINC as a test for stability. I run SETI with BOINC, and over the space of 2 years or so not once has it been inaccurate when I've been looking for the max stable OC.
it sounds like your objection isn't to the principle of stress testing, but rather the effectiveness of the specific synthetic tests that are often utilized?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
Yep, precisely. IBT w\ AVX I've found to be the most accurate stability tester, but its still not as good as BOINC.
fair enough. in the past i've combined prime calcs with looping 3DMark demos and video encoding. generally the more things the system is actively switching between, the more quickly it tends to trip up. will give IBT a try when i finally get to put together my asrock build next week.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
for BOINC i presume the particular project choice is irrelevant? any particular settings involved that you have found best expose instability?
SETI@Home(SSE3 + versions) & Einstein@Home BOINC application(I've ran only these from CPU bound apps) can ruin any "stable" system if it has weak points. The key is, they not only load the system like LinX(with no AVX) does, but also one will run them for 24/7 usually. If they don't make your machine to fail today, same cannot be expected for tommorow or day after tommorow etc.
I run SETI@Home on my 2500K(4.5 GHz @ 1.26 V, moderately clocked as it is not main crunching unit in the system, two GTX 460s are) and it is ultimate test. Of course, no one would install it just for testing stability.
I just run SETI and make sure all CPU cores are @ 100% and let it run. Literally a 100% accurate test for me. When I first clocked my SB system I used SETI while playing a game. 8-10hrs passed (it was a sunday, gaming for long spurts is allowed :p ) and not a single glitch.Quote:
Originally Posted by jpm
Oh i forgot to ask, My voltages across all my rails are lower than what other people get...
What does it mean?
Attachment 116809
Oh and my Core #1 temps off compared to my other cores... Been like that since I've got it... Anyone know why?
Edit: Added Load temps
Attachment 116817
Man! 40C under load? *faints*
Ket, my man,
Today in the morning, I ran LinX with AVX with 6GB RAM and the temps were reaching almost 90C in a few minutes as per CoreTemp. But, when I touched the heatsink (all be it the top of the sink which may not be as accurate as the heatpipes or even fins in the middle), it was only slightly warm, say around 40-45C give or take. The air coming out of the exhaust was negligible too. For example, when my HD5870 is @70C, the air it puts out is very hot. Maybe it won't be same with the CPU, but I would expect the HS to be at about 60C, when the CPU core was at 90C, would you not?
So I think the problem could be with the contact. I'm certain it is not with the mounting, but could be with the thermal paste (it is one year old anyways), how much paste was used and how flat the HSF base is.
But my idle temps are very good, compared to ambient. Around 2-5C higher than ambient. One core is notably cooler.
So what I am going to do when I get home is this.
1. I would remove the left side panel and aim a fan towards the inside of the case.
2. If it doesn't bring down the temps, it means the case airflow is OK. So I would take out the HSF, and see if I have not applied thermal paste correctly, and I will use the same old thermal paste again.
3. If it doesn't work, I will use the hotplate and see if the heat gets transferred properly to the fins. Of course I cannot use the fans nor control the temp of the hotplate, but I will turn it ON for a few seconds and place the HS for a few seconds and see how it works. If it doesn't transfer heat quickly, something is wrong with the cooler itself. Heatpipe mechanism?
4. If there seems to be no problem with the cooler, I would lap it!
5. If all else fail, I will buy a new cooler because this has to stop! >_<
I presume you're OCed right? If not then there is def something wrong with the contact if its not able to lose the heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anusha
I remember mine hit about 90 Under Linx/IBT when i was at about 1.37v, only because my case had really bad cooling.
If you're using a stock cooler, i wouldn't hit over 1.3-1.35v with it.
Overclocked to 4.7 with 1.37 but cannot test. Using TR MUX-120 with two silent fans in push/pull. :(
Hmm that's odd. Make sure when you reseat ur HSF dont put too much thermal paste, and not too little. I tend to use a small plastic card and spread the thinnest layer of thermal past i can over the cpu before i apply the HSF.
If your HSF is fastened on the mobo with screws, try screwing it on tighter, sometimes people don't put the HSF on with enough pressure applied to the CPU (be careful not to apply too much pressure). Too much thermal paste combined with little pressure will be bad when it comes to heat transfer.
If you can't test 4.7 just go for 4.5 which you can run at 1.29-1.32v. That way your temps will be a lot lower.
One core will always be cooler than the others, I have the same thing and I'd expect 99.99% of other people do as well. The software isn't inaccurate, it'll tell you things as it is. You probably get lower readings on your rails than others simply because your system is pulling a bit more juice and / or your PSU isn't as powerful as what other people are using. Probably everybody would say my 850w Corsair unit is way overpowered for my system, but I look at things as whats the point in getting a PSU thats "enough" when for a extra £20 or so I can get something thats not only plenty powerful but more futureproof - saving me money in the long run because I know the PSU won't be a limiting factor for a long time, thus negating the need to replace it.Quote:
Originally Posted by noddi
Seems like your problem is contact. Before going to all that hassle I would simply take the cooler off, clean it and re-apply TIM. Roughly the thickness of a expensive piece of paper. Alternatively, you could blob on about 1.5 grains worth of rice in the center of the CPU and let good old fashioned pressure do the rest, sometimes I get better results by doing this than spreading the TIM out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anusha
the thermal paste is a bit thick, so i cannot apply it as a layer. i tried, but the temps shot past 90C within a couple of minutes! and when i removed it, it wasn't looking nice on the bottom of the HS. so i applied a grain in the middle, and it brought down the temps to 80C. probably the thermal paste is no good anymore? should i buy some new thermal paste and see? but if it still is crap, i would still have to buy a new cooler and the money wasted on thermal paste for no reason. that always happens to me. >_<
for the moment, i dropped clocks down to 4.5GHz @ 1.32V in bios, but with level 2 LLC so only at 1.29x at max load. 50 passes of LinX with AVX went through with 2GB RAM work load.
80c with anything like IBT w\AVX utilising all the RAM possible is a very good temp. Short of going water temps won't get much lower than that.
hehe. so you really want me to keep my current cooler ha? :P
anyways, from what i could see, i would need 1.37V+ for 4.7GHz, which i wouldn't try even if i had a better cooler. max i would feel OK is 1.35V. so, maybe you are right. i will try to get 4.6ghz stable on THIS cooler. maybe get ~85C for a few hours won't hurt the CPU much aye? (btw, just so that you know, my ambient is a whopping 31C right now!)
maybe some cheap MX-2 wouldn't hurt either. ;)
If you get new TIM, make it good stuff like MX4, MX2 is just the stuff people should use when overhauling somebody elses system as its still a million times better than the crap TIM pre-builts use.
of course MX4 it is. but they are not shipping it tomorrow! the bastards! i will have to get it on Thursday.
By Thursday I'll have my new games :) Been a while since I played any proper PC games, been hooked on football manager :p:
Hi guys,
having some problems over here..
2600k with z68 extreme 4
on 4.7Ghz 1.3vcore / PLL voltage enable / LLC level 1 / pass IBT / Prime for 6 hrs with no errors
i will get BSOD when i surf the net randomly or during a game
any idea what is the problem ?
Cheers
Sounds like memory settings are off. Same thing happened to me before I tweaked my sub-timings.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoOs7eR
Set your memory frequency, voltage and timings manually. You might need to pump up vcore and VTT a tad as well depending if you are OCing your memory or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoOs7eR
Well, if the error code in the BSOD is 124, you need more Vcore. I know, it is weird that LinX pass but still crashes when doing absolutely nothing. Happened to me. Had to increase Vcore. 4.7@1.3V might not work on almost all the chips.
Thanks for all the replies...
the rams i'm running on default
GSKILL 2x4GB 2133Mhz rated 1.65V
F3-17000CL9D-8GBXLD
System Type DDR3
Intel XMP certified, designed for Intel P67 & Z68
CAS Latency 9-11-9-28-2N
Capacity 8GB (4GB x2)
Speed DDR3-2133 (PC3 17000)
Test Voltage 1.65 Volts
Registered/Unbuffered Unbuffered
Error Checking Non-ECC
Type 240-pin DIMM
didnt change the timing for the rams , voltage was set to 1.65v manually..
Post your LinX and HW Monitor screehshots showing the GFlops and Processor Powers reported.Quote:
on 4.7Ghz 1.3vcore / PLL voltage enable / LLC level 1 / pass IBT / Prime for 6 hrs with no errors
Anyway most likely, inadequate vcore still.
While I don't have that specific kit I can throw out some general things to try;Quote:
Originally Posted by JoOs7eR
- Set timings, speed and voltage manually. Don't just load up the XMP profile.
- Increase vcore by .3-.5v
- Change VTT to 1.155v
I uploaded some UEFI shots a page or two back, you may find those useful.
Attachment 116871Quote:
Originally Posted by MacClipper
LinX output looks like it is on the low side if you are running 4.7GHz and RAM@2133 so there is most likely some throttling going on and your rig is prob. not fully stable yet.
Thanks Mac for the replyQuote:
Originally Posted by MacClipper
So what you suggest?
Pump more vcore ? or run the rams @ low clock speed?
Cheers
Already replied back at VRZ, hope you can find a good balance in the end.
only issue ive got now, is a very small one, almost dosent matter, my bus speed is 99.8, even when set to 100 in the bios, and when i set it to 100.2, its actually on 100.2, Weird, but 0.2 is properly not going to make a difference, so just going to leave it on 100 ^_- running v1.5 uefi bios ofc
Its 99.8 if you have spread spectrum enabled. 100 if it's disabledQuote:
Originally Posted by Sined
though i thought i would get lower idle power consumption by going from a P55 i5 750@3.8GHz (with all the power saving features ON) to this board with 2600k@ 4.5GHz, it wasn't the case. new system uses about 5W more than the old one when doing nothing. it could be that the Z68 isn't as good as P67 when it comes to power draw, as you have to have the iGPU powered up all the time. but stil...aren't the reviews showing a 25W or more less power draw at idle for the SB? iGPU can't be using 30W!!! :(
127W vs 133W, system power draw from the mains + wireless router. (measured from the main power meter with every other appliance unplugged)
shouldent 100.2 be 100 with it enabled then?
Any chance of some suggestions for settings in the BIOS for this board for this setup --> http://www.nrnl.org/challenge-beat-t...roof-t821.html ?? Any help say with screenshots to get to 5.0GHz temporarily for a benchmark would be great, and also some recommended settings for a 24/7 4.6GHz clock would also greatly appreciated. Loving this board so far,
- SabreWulf69
Use IBT w\ AVX. I put a link for it in this thread. Make sure you assign every available MB of RAM for maximum accuracy of the test.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoOs7eR
As already mentioned, disable Spread Spectrum ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sined
Have you disabled any onboard features you aren't using in the UEFI?Quote:
Originally Posted by Anusha
..ClickyQuote:
Originally Posted by SabreWulf69
Thanks Ket :up: Just wondering, why are so many people overclocking with SpeedStep enabled. Thought this was a no-no when it came to serious overclocking. I am using most of the settings you gave except for Speedstep and it works just fine for a 4.6GHz clock with a 1.360V vCore. Is this too high a vCore? I guess I'm also lazy and can't be bothered resetting multiple times then running constant stability tests to get the lowest one possible so a recommendation will do. I also leave virtualization off as I have no personal use for this. As I have heard, if you ain't gonna use something, then it's best to disable it as a general BIOS housekeeping rule of old as most will know. My reasoning behind disabling Speedstep is that anything that 'dynamically and automatically' adjusts in the computer can upset things when you are overclocking as I have personally experienced over time. Some of the same reasoning behind disabling thermal control(s) and whatnot I believe. Also would you happen to have a link to explain what that the PLL Overvoltage feature is specifically for? Would you have any conclusive tests showing what it does with it both disabled then enabled? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks once again,
- SabreWulf69
Of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket
Here's the link to all my UFEI screens. Let me know if I can improve further.
Hey Ket, think it's about time for you to kickstart a new thread so you will be all ready if and when your new toy comes in... :D
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...3/71f01c2d.jpg
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...3/7314d3ff.jpg
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...3/ef21b253.jpg
But, don't forget us. ;)
I've no intention of overclocking (purchased this board for linux and while the board itself was higher end than required; I needed display port and a lot of sata ports; sata cards quickly bump the cost of board with fewer ports)
-
Shoudl I not enable spectrum spread ? Also is there anythig I actually need to set in the bios outside of defaults (and making sure sleep mode is enabled; as this system will run 24/7) ??
-
so far very happy with the board; layout and feature set is very nice (nicer than my p67 board). Bit pricey but really needed 7 sata ports.
-
a few specific bios questions (I checked the manual and could not find good descriptions):
south bridge - what is Deep Sx (s4/s5) ???
- what is on/off play ?? (it seems to force deep sx off)
- cpu - exactly what does power saving option enable ?
-
Is there a better manual for the asrock bios? Most of the manual simply repeats the name of the option without explaining what the options (for example power saving - enable disable - enables and disable power saving; well gee i knew that but does it mean?);
-
One thing I noticed is the chip labeled v8 (south bridge?) gets extremely hot to the touch; wouldn't surprise me if it is over 70C (the asrock and cpuid tools dont' show the temp). I guess this must be normal but still it seems awful hot.
Just ask ASRock support. They gave me specific answer about MIMO.
yes, i have to agree, ASRock need a proper manual writer. :D
Ok. One last question; there seems to be two methods to reset bios settings; witch in back and jumpers. For using the jumper you power down and there are other precautions mentiond in the manual. For the switch in the pack do you use this switch when also powered down ? Does it differ from the jumpers in any way other than being more convenient?
i turned off the pc, but didn't disconnect the power from wall. pressed the button in the i/o panel, and it worked.
I started my OC with this board and a 2500k last night.
I'm not understanding how the VCC works.
I have it on offset +.005, the value next to it bounces .98-1.28V etc.. I have throttling on.
On load Still 1.289V or so max in prime 95.
All I really minipulated was the multipler, to X44 got it going at 4.4ghz.
I have no clue how to take it further. I see some people with VCC 1.35 etc...
Example this guy, I don't agree with his settings but he shows a 1.35 Vcc and +.05 offset.
I don't get it, how did he get 1.35V?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9e04-5hjk-I
Did you manage to get this get fixed?Quote:
Originally Posted by piquadrat
put together my i7-2600k / z68e4 system yesterday and so far the chip is responding fairly well. as a first step i've got it stable at 4.4ghz @ 1.295V on air and closed case. with speedstep and the various sleeps enabled the cores idle at about 32C, this is in ~24C ambient. under a number-crunch load like prime95 the cores fully loaded run about 65C, if tortured then it will eventually stabilize in 70C-80C, depending on the core. but the case venting seems to be working as MB temperature levels at 40C during the torture. VCC is a little jumpier than i was expecting, although it hangs around 1.291 most of time, it actually flips about between 1.286 and even as high as 1.312 as i was able to catch here:
Attachment 117154
strange that the first few linpack runs go around 93GFlops before it settles in around 98.7GFlops. have seen some other posts at this clock showing around 107GFlops, not sure about the difference.
Attachment 117155
no big surprises in the bios. many/most settings here resemble what other people have been posting. for now using high (200W) duration power limits with a zero turbo voltage level and LLC level 1, which basically kills turbo mode and runs all clocks at 44x multi whenever not speedstep'd down. this is kind of chucking all that fancy new thermal management stuff out the window and running the chip more like a "classic" core 2 duo/quad. but it's a simpler way to stabilize (imo). will play with that thermal stuff next.
Attachment 117156
the DIMMs are acutally low voltage, rated for 1.35V. trying to avoid having to mess with the PLL, VTT, or VCCSA. but i still set them all manually because i don't like trusting a number called "Auto".
Attachment 117157
left the other fancy stuff enabled because if they did it right they won't interfere with my clock. if these things don't work then i blame the OC, not the fancy features. they all work just fine at normal clocks.
Attachment 117158
next i'd like to see if i can get a single-core turbo boost profile on top of the 4.4, although i'm not sure if the complexity of optimizing the duration power limits, load line calibration, and additional turbo voltage makes it worth the trouble. if i could stabilize a single core turbo boost at 4.8ghz with a multi-core 4.4ghz clock that would be significant. don't know if that is possible yet with this system design.
If the Z68 Fatality Pro doesn't have any issues, its unlikely I'll get one from Asrock. At the very least I'd need 4-5 people mentioning different issues with the board before I'd be able to ask. Asrock are fast learners though, they have been very careful in making sure none of the bugs the early P67 E4 UEFIs had made their way into the Z68 E4 UEFIs so I see no reason why that would change for the Z68 Fataility Pro.Quote:
Originally Posted by MacClipper
The Clear CMOS button on the back is very much for convenience and will do the job fine most of the time. If a full CMOS reset is required though you need to;Quote:
Originally Posted by anewbie
- Remove CMOS battery
- Remove power cord
- Set CMOS jumper to "clear" position
- Wait 1 min
- Press power button 2-3 times (discharges capacitors)
The issue is still being looked at. If I don't hear anything by around mid-week I'll chase things up a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelly
I was wondering if you have any interest Ket in making any custom UEFI's for this board as you did BIOS's for the P5Q ASUS series, oh, way back when. Would there be any advantages to even doing such a thing?
I might give it a go if the tools were available but AFAIK there are no UEFI tools out there.
Hi Ket,
Any updates regardint the eSATA bug? Tried with the 1.50 Bios but still the same old problem! :(
Cheers,
Gabriel
The issue is being looked at by R&D. Last I knew they were trying to get their hands on a few different eSATA devices to test. The issue is on my chase-up list if I haven't heard anything by around Thursday.
why is one CPU fan header is a 4-pin one and the other is a 3-pin one?
doesn't that make the auto fan control a problem?
check out the following graphs. see that there is a big difference when i set fan speed to level 2. no problem at full speed, as the board is not controlling the fan speed. maybe i should get a splitter and connect the two fans to one header?
i have two Coolermaster Blademaster fans in push-pull on my new Antec Kuhler 620. (yep, I bought a new cooler. XD)
#ambient is 31.2C, i don't know if it is right or not. but it is so damn hot. :D
idle
Attachment 117229
getting past the 65C limit of the fan controller
Attachment 117230
Prime95 blend after few minutes
Attachment 117228
i'll check if this is the same in UEFI too. i guess it would be.
I have the following problem.
I tried to install the driver for LUCID VIRTU (Lucidlogix VIRTU Setup_1_2_103_17278_64Bit - the latest) but after reboot it gives me BSOD with igdkamd64.sys error.
HD graphics driver is installed - version 15.22.4.64.2418.
I do not know what's going on.
Any help would be appreciated.
These pages *may* be handy for ya Ket if you haven't already come across them --> http://efizone.edkoindustries.com/ and http://sourceforge.net/apps/mediawik...le=EFI_Toolkit
- SabreWulf69
First problem:
I have a segate sata st3320620AS drive plugged into intel sata2_5 port. In this port the system cannot boot (it finds the drive but is unable to correctly read the boot track - the drive is selected boot able in the boot options). If I move this drive to sata2_2 the system can boot off the drive fine. If I'm not mistaken sata2_5 should be one of the 3 gb/s ports. Is there a reason the system cannot boot using this port ? Is this a hardware issue ?
User manual - ftp://174.142.97.10/manual/Z68%20Extreme4.pdf
Should be a BIOS option for AHCI bootable mode for the SATA 3 controller. Don't quite know why there would be any issues with the standard ports though.
Would you be able to provide a screenshot of the Advanced | Storage Configuration page?
"2.22.2 Installing Windows® 7 / 7 64-bit / VistaTM / VistaTM 64-bit Without RAID Functions
If you want to install Windows® 7 / 7 64-bit / VistaTM / VistaTM 64-bit OS on your SATA
/ SATAII / SATA3 HDDs without RAID functions, please follow below steps.
Using SATA / SATAII / SATA3 HDDs with NCQ function
STEP 1: Set Up UEFI.
A. Enter UEFI SETUP UTILITY Advanced screen SATA Con guration.
B. Set the option “SATA Mode” to [AHCI]. (For SATA3_0, SATA3_1 and SATA2_2 to
SATA2_5 ports.)
Set the option “Marvell SATA3 Operation Mode” to [AHCI]. (For SATA3_M1 and
SATA3_M2 ports.)
STEP 2: Install Windows® 7 / 7 64-bit / VistaTM / VistaTM 64-bit OS on your
system.
Using SATA / SATAII / STA3 HDDs without NCQ function
STEP 1: Set Up UEFI.
A. Enter UEFI SETUP UTILITY Advanced screen SATA Con guration.
B. Set the option “SATA Mode” to [IDE]. (For SATA3_0, SATA3_1 and SATA2_2 to
SATA2_5 ports.)
Set the option “Marvell SATA3 Operation Mode” to [IDE]. (For SATA3_M1 and
SATA3_M2 ports.)
STEP 2: Install Windows® 7 / 7 64-bit / VistaTM / VistaTM 64-bit OS on your
system."
Also,
"Marvell SATA3 Operation Mode
This item is for SATA3_M1 and SATA3_M2 ports. Use this to select Mar-
vell SATA3 operation mode. Configuration options: [IDE Mode], [AHCI
Mode] and [Disabled]. The default value is [IDE Mode].
Marvell SATA3 Bootable
Use this to enable or disable Onboard Marvell SATA3 Option ROM. If
Option ROM is disabled, UEFI cannot use the SATA device to connect to
Marvell SATA3 controller as Boot Device.
We recommend to use Intel® Z68 SATA ports (SATA3_0,
SATA3_1, SATA2_2, SATA2_3, SATA2_4 and SATA2_5) for
your bootable devices. This will minimum your boot time and
get the best performance. But if you still want to boot from
Marvell SATA3 controller, you can still enable this in UEFI.
SATA Mode
This item is for SATA3_0, SATA3_1 and SATA2_2 to SATA2_5 ports.
Use this to select SATA mode. Con guration options: [IDE Mode], [AHCI
Mode], [RAID Mode] and [Disabled]. The default value is [IDE Mode].
AHCI (Advanced Host Controller Interface) supports NCQ
and other new features that will improve SATA disk perfor-
mance but IDE mode does not have these advantages."
fan control is one of the few areas where i am truly disappointed by this board. as far as i can tell the fam controls don't work with any sort of precision or consistency that would be important for people trying to tune noise and temperatures. even the settings aren't consistent across fans; the cpu fans are auto-only based on target temp, and while the others allow manual "level" settings, one has fewer levels than the rest. i don't see why asrock couldn't have just let us manually specify the rpm for every fan as an option, this is entirely possible and implemented by some other brands. i'm going to move all my fans to a dedicated lamptron controller.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anusha
Not sure what tool you are using to take screenshots (I think msi bios support stuff but I couldn't find anything in asrock bios to take a screen shot; so here is a yucky one:
http://s1139.photobucket.com/albums/...=img_0075.jpg/
-
More information; if I leave the drive in sata2_5 and unplug the other two drives then it boots fine. This happens even if I use f11 and select the device to be the sata2_5.
-
Ok I unplugged all the drives and repluged them in (same slots as in the screen shot) and now all works.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SabreWulf69
The 4 pin auxillery connection is not meant for fans, it is to provide additional power. It is recommended to connect it in any system running multiple graphics cards. I only use the "Level" mode when tuning the fans, all works well and the only RPM variation I ever see is what you could expect to see from fans anyway. The pump with my Eco is connected to one of the CPU fan headers and always runs 100% in "Level" mode. AFAIK, every "Level" is equal to 10% fanspeed adjustment. I'm not sure what else you are really trying to get at as its really not very clear :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Anusha
Boot to safe mode, remove the driver then redownload it to ensure the file isn't corrupt.Quote:
Originally Posted by jacek
Trying to do a bit of overclocking on my new Asrock Z68 Extreme4 but I can't change the CPU ratio at all...
In fact, as soon as I press delete (to change the highlighted ratio number before) it totally resets my UEFI settings back to default.
It won't let me type in the (required) number I'd like to up the CPU ratio.
Anyone got any ideas?
Erm, do make sure your mouse cursor is out of the way...Quote:
Originally Posted by phillai
I've reflashed to 1.50 again and I still can't change the ratio but I've think I've discovered something even worse!
I noticed whenever I try to get into UEFI by pressing delete it kept reseting and I noticed that I could only get into UEFI by pressing F2.
Now, I've discovered whenever I press delete anywhere within the UEFI screen, it resets the PC - It's almost like pressing the CMOS button and I lose all the UEFI settings.
What's going on here and what can I do?
If I press delete within Windows 7, it doesn't reset my PC...
Quote:
Originally Posted by anewbie
To get UEFI screenshots just insert a FAT16/32 pen drive into a USB2 port and hit F12.
Courtesy of Ket for the above, source is post #181
sorry duplicate post
THanks; I searched the manual (and googled) everywhere without luck. I'll have to tuck this into my notes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostleader
I've solved the mysterious delete reset problem I had in the bios!
I slapped the USB keyboard in a different port on my USB hub.
No more resets when I press delete now when in the bios! :)
What's going on here and what can I do?
Does the z68 (chip with v8 heat sink) on the motherboard get hot? I'm a bit confused here. On my board it seems to become very warm (hot to the touch) so I was a bit concern. From intel site the operating range seems to be up to 100C. Anyways I was a bit concern so I email asrock support and they said it should not be hot and should have a max temp of 35 Farenheit (which would be frigid) so I should return the board.
-
I am NOT using a dedicated gpu; but rather 2500k's as my gpu. This is also the only chip on the board that is extremely hot (cpu is around 35C - peak 60C when running prime95).
-
Here is my note and asrock response:
-
Also the chip labeled v8 (Z68) gets extremely hot (I would guess 70C or 80C but have no method to measure). Is this normal?
-
Their response:
-
When you mentioned extremely hot ,is when we recommended to return it , the motherboard chips does not get hot to the point the way you described.
the range is from 35 to 45 Farenheit .
Seems like you might have a USB hub port thats going bonkers. Try connecting your keyboard and mouse to the USB ports on the mainboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by phillai
Using my temperature gun (+/- 2% range) with the system idle in a case with the side panel off I measured 40.6c. (See Z68 E4 review link in my sig), I can well imagine in a closed case even with good airflow that temp rising to around the 50c mark. You have a few choices here really;Quote:
Originally Posted by anewbie
1. Remove your mobo and send it back.
2. It's very probable that the reason for your high temps is a poorly mounted "V8". You could remove the heatsink, clean off the TIM (which for stock TIM is actually quite good.. its no AS Ceramique though) check to make sure there are no "bumps and bobbles" on the HS base (if there is, simply sand them away with some sand paper) apply fresh TIM and remount the heatsink.
The latter of those options is likely going to be the fastest fix, albiet at some inconvenience. Just be aware doing the latter might void your warranty.
@ Users with eSATA / SSD issues: We are currently waiting on some devices to arrive. Once I know more, I'll let you know.
General Info;
I have suggested that the "Level" fan mode in the UEFI is replaced with a percentage method letting the user set a custom fanspeed between 25% - 100% for greater cooling to noise ratio control. Response is pending.
btw Ket, what's the model number of your RAM? i see you have tightened the timings. how much VTT does it require now? lower than before?
I didn't change any voltages, just changed from 2133 (which will do 8-10-8-25-1N when I push 1.665v) to 1866 7-9-7-25-1N @ 1.65v. I've switched back to 2133 @ 9-10-9-25-1N 1.65v now though, I discovered 4.7GHz to only be about 98% stable and no amount of tweaking would bring it round. Damn 2500k. 4.6-4.65GHz would probably be stable, but I'm fine with 4.5GHz @ 1.33v.
Model number for the RAM I have is; F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM
1.665V is bad? i'm stuck with 1333 @ 8/8/8/24/1T :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Ket