DOH DOH DOH :slap: :rofl: me so silly...............
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DOH DOH DOH :slap: :rofl: me so silly...............
Yep, this can be tough. What worked best for me was to tilt the case up on a corner and move it around relatively violently. :D Once I stopped getting air out in that position, I'd switch to a different corner.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
The molex connector has two black wires in the middle. They are both ground. Then as alphaOne said, there is a 12V yellow wire on one side and the 5V red wire on the other.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
I'm glad you figured out the problem and simply need to flip the pins around on your connector to fix the issue. However, I don't understand how you can be measuring 9.9V on the 5V line... :confused:
What voltage does your multimeter show you now that you have corrected the pin layout on the molex connector?
The reb/black reading is an unloaded voltage measurement. Haven't measured the yellow/black pins yet, will do so tomorrow and post results.Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
Leak Testing:
Run for 17 hours now. No more leaks...
Can't see any bubbles in the loop at all.
Also plugged pumps red/black pins in molex so they marry with orange/black from pc p/supply. Turned on pc p/supply, pump runs :slap: my bad
Congrats on getting it working. What voltage reading do you get?Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
plug in the rest of the components and seal that case...
Yep, sounds sweet!
You've had a fairly trouble free build. Hope you're pleased?
Just ensure you've every skerrick of air out of the rad though. Otherwise it'll pulsate and absorb your pump's output.
Yes I just blow out the rad but it's important to block fan rotation. You can spin it up to ridiculous revs if you don't block it.
The great thing about that compressor is it has no moisture or oil in the output, so is perfect for dedusting a computer.
I'm seriously considering bolting a second case to serve as WC box for my rig. Lian-Li V1000B+ is a great case but little room. A second would allow internal rads and plenty of space for my raid arrays, M-cube temp monitoring stuff, WC etc.
I got the elite kit from Petra and have added EK blocks for the 680 chipset and vid card. I'm starting with a Thermochill 120.2 and figure my duo-case would allow several single rads to be added as required if there's too many blocks for the rad. We'll see?
Measured last night, forgot to write it down.Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
Approx. 5V to 6V on the Red, 13V to 15V (or 14V) on the orange.
I'm getting there :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Sleeved my dual UV lights, rear fan above CPU and front buttons & LED's on the U2 case last night.
Ran out of time after that.
Will try fitting off power supply and tidying up the cabling - really regretting not buying a modular supply
I just want to make sure all the cabling is loomed up nicely before I throw the switch cause I don't want to climb back into the case for a while.
All powered up - nothing blew up - amazing :p: I was quite pleased as all extended or shortened cabling worked first time :D
Currently using U2 rig to post this message.
Still have a few things to clear up, which I will do tomorrow:
- HDD & Power LED connectors are back the front on the mobo - hence no visual indication on front of case.
- Problem with USB wireless keyboard.
- Have to reload x-Fi XtremeMusic drivers as it has :banana::banana::banana::banana: itself due to changing the card to a different PCI slot.
All really minor stuff I will sort out shortly - not tonight though.
Got the UV light going, added one half of one container of G12 additive, not reacting to UV light at all. How much do I need to add?
Also accidentally stepped on one of the UV lights :slap: , will have to pick up another one tomorrow.
Cabling is pretty good, I used black sleeving - about 5 metres of it plus about 1 metre of heat shrink. In conjunction with the black case, it blends it really nicely :)
Even with the fans running flat chat, it is very quiet, and that is with the sides and top off.
Will post some pictures tomorrow.
me so happy :woot: :bounce: :wierd: :banana: :rehab: :banana3: :bounces:
What software r u all using to monitor CPU & GPU temps - links please :)
I use Coretemp (Free) and Everest Ultimate (Not free) for CPU temps. And Everest for GPU temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
http://www.lavalys.com/
http://www.thecoolest.zerobrains.com/CoreTemp/
Enjoy The Build BTW! :D
lucky lucky. post em pics soon. hehe
I wanna see pics!
-yan
Last bit of sleeving finally finished...
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/94s.jpg Just after the next photo I stepped on one of the UV lights http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/95s.jpg Nice and neat :) http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/96s.jpg
Added some Pentosin
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/97s.jpg Notice how as Pentosin is heavier than water it is slowly dropping down through the distilled water in the tubing - pump not running
Some internal cabling - also changed power supply to modular unit, made cable reticulation so much better.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/98s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/99s.jpg
Still have to put in the blank plates
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/100s.jpg
This is a really good shot showing how most of the ugly cabling is restricted to the base of the power supply
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/101s.jpg
Ready for final power and leak testing
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/102s.jpg
U2's home -
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/103s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/104s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/105s.jpg I changed the MM front grills - bit too much in the end.
The work room aftermath
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/106s.jpg
Will finish off the build Saturday (going out for dinner tonight straight after work), take a whole heap of finished rig photos & clean up. Then start looking at temps after that.
Also, where do you think the UV light is - when you find it the replacement second light will go directly opposite it. Am using the first toggle switch to the right of the fan control knobs to switch it on/off.
Thanks for the links mate. Will download and test on the weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriote
Have you found the grills you are after yet? I ended up going with normal wire grills - plain but nice :)
BTW - no answer to this question yet, how much pentosin do I need to add to the loop. Half a bottle yielded no reaction to the UV light.
Make sure you got the reactive UV pentosin. I believe it is not UV reactive by default and is a mixture made by resellers (like Petra's).Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
Also, in regards to modular power supplies. They seem to not perform at the same level of power supplies that are hardwired. There were a few articles floating around a few months ago and I'll see if I can dig them up. I remember PCP&C referring to such articles when asked why they didn't make modular PSU's.
You might want to ask Petras. I think they were the ones that first posted pictures of the UVness of the red Pentosin. Its cool how it goes to the bottom...Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
Anyway, you've done a nice job there man! Congrats. :toast:
yeah finish up photos so we can all oogle em. hehe
I like the grills.
Yeah, modular is just a bunch of connections to intermitent fault on you, imho.
Everest Ultimate is a go. It can log temps etc and read out to any LCD. I have it displaying my temps to a lcd in keyboard.
It'll be interesting to see your temps. Should be good.
I bought the UV reactive G11 & G12 Pentosin from Petra's.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
I tested the UV light up against the bottles of pentosin in the dark and they glowed, hence my query about how much to put into the loop. The stuff glows in the bottle, but not in the loop. Other UV cables are glowing fine.
Re the modular power supply - Not that worried about it. It has more than enough power for my requirements, 5 year warranty, something goes wrong, RMA it back to pccasegear :)
Initial temperature readout as follows this morning after running for 1 hour. (I forgot that I was already running Everest so I have before and after temps already):
CPU#1
Air: 42C
WC: 27C
CPU#2
Air: 43C
WC: 28C
GPU's
Air: 55C (minimum)
WC: 35C
Can you get Everest to report separately on the 2 GPU's. Only ever got it to report on GPU#1 :confused:
GPU#2 is definitely working :p:
10% solution, 9:1 mix with distilled water, I believe.
like put the whole bottle into a 1.5 Liter distilled water and mix well...
You know, the one thing I didn't do was measure how much water I actually put in the loop :slap:
Do you guys know how much water is in your loop(s)?
What would be an average for a PA120.3, EK250 & abut 5 to 6 feet of tubing 1/2" ID - i guessing about 700 to 800 ml.
yah less than a liter... i have 1.5liter, h2o does not all fit...
Everything is put together, packed & cleaned up - here we go... :p:
Final photos with covers off
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/107s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/108s.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/109s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/110s.jpg
Some close ups-
View from mobo side - nice
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/111s.jpg
View from top - really nice
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/114s.jpg
View from power supply side - not so nice.
Cables hidden as best I could - really needed longer sata cables to be able to route them properly - future job :)
Not a real problem as the power supply side sits flush against my desk and is not visible..
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/112s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/113s.jpg
Covers on -
Notice how the flash used in the first photo makes the bay covers seem a different shade from the case.
What you see with your eye is as per the second photo which is great as the bay covers really blend in nicely with the case in normal light.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/115s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/116s.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/117s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/118s.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/119s.jpg
Some more close ups -
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/120s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/123s.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/121s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/122s.jpg
Nestles nicely in the gap-
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/126s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/124s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/125s.jpg
Looking into the guts while its running
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/127s.jpg
You can see the RAM lit up in this shot..
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/128s.jpg
UV light on - still no joy with UV Pentosin reacting :confused:
Good view of the sata connectors on the hard drives. Might have to add another pair of UV lights in the base - I do have one spare toggle switch on the fan controller :cool:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/129s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/130s.jpg
This is the stuff I used - it does say UV. Has anyone used this stuff?
I have added more Pentosin to get to the prescribed ratio, but still no luck.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/131s.jpg
Also installed EVEREST Ultimate Edition. Will post some temps later today plus a bit of a build summary as well. :D
How often do you guys change the pump flow setting? (You are playing a GPU intensive game, gonna generate a bit more heat, need to turn up the pump a bit, get the loop flowing a bit faster).
Was just thinking that if I want to change the flow rate on my pump I will have to remove the side cover every time.
This leads to me designing a mod to allow me access to the rotating control on my pump without removing the side cover.
Simple solution would be to drill a hole in the side cover to allow a screw driver through, but that would be a bit lame I reckon.
Maybe drill a hole in the bottom of the case and setup a couple off 45degree angled bushes. Turn a knob under the case and this would increase/decrease the flow rate of the pump - simple and functional.
I should be able to get a couple of plastic/nylon, etc shafts with angled bushes, dremmel one end of the shaft to fit the screw driver slot on the pump and fit it off.
Spend another 300$ like I did and get the complete Mcubed setup:
1) BigNG: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20837
2) 2 x miniNG: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4501
3) Sensorbus: http://www.3dcool.com/product_info.php?products_id=1420
4) 3 G1/4" water temp probes: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20435
5) 6 fan attenuators: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4612
That right there will let you monitor everything through software and change fan/pump settings on the fly and let you do a hard shut down in case of rising temps/pump failure. Most robust, complete, awesome pump/fan controller ever.
Hi Ranker,
Would be nice, but if I spend any more money at the moment on my pc, I will die a horrible death by the hands of my betroved :slapass:
What I need to do at the moment is set the pc via BIOS to shutdown when the CPU hits a maximum temp.
OK, I have EVEREST Ultimate Edition,
Heaps of options, etc on this program. I only had the basic version which was quite old so I have some reading to do to work out what all the data means.
Re the GPU data which is the most relevant, plus when everyone quotes GPU temps, what value is being referenced?
I have these current values:
GPU1: GPU - 30C/86F
GPU1: GPU Diode - 41C/106F
GPU1: GPU Memory - 29C/84F
GPU1: GPU Ambient - 40C/104F
GPU2: GPU - 28C/82F
GPU2: GPU Diode - 36C/97F
GPU2: GPU Memory - 28C/82F
GPU2: GPU Ambient - 36C/97F
Also, here is my CPU info:
CPU: - 22C/73F
CPU1/CORE 1 - 31C/90F
CPU1/CORE 2 - 34C/93F
regarding GPUs, GPU 1 is the most used, so naturally higher temps than GPU 2
whats your ambient room temps?, judging from cpu temps it should be around 20C to 25C in your room...
yep, 'bout 22CQuote:
Originally Posted by septim
btw geoffp, i think the g12 resulted in pinkish color but UV reactive...
now Petra's has that long life red coolant which would give you more reddish coloration to your water...
Hey septim whats the deal with Petra? How much do they charge for international postage? Or is that included in the price? When you look at the shopping card it says postage included but then you can not select an international shipping address.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Sorry geoffp for this little highjack of your thread. BTW I actually got an order in and my UFO should be on its way to me soon :D
A kit and some bits from Petra around $50us to get to rural nsw.
M-cube is patchy distribution in Oz but you can put it together for around $200, from PCCaceGear and HB-Outlet.
Otherwise import.
MnM, international shipping is handled through emails with Quoc...
postage is usually for continental US only i think...
if they find a way to ship it to you, fastest method applies, then you're good to go.
US to Australia, 5days or less airfreight?
5 days pushes it up to 59
10 days around low fifties.
it would be easier to just email them. mondays to fridays only. if a weekend, pls be patient.
Geoff,
Just wanted to thank you for sharing your adventures with us.. really love how it turned out.. :fact:
congrats on a job well done and have fun with the OC :clap: :woot: :cheer2:
Congrats, nicely done. And it makes a nice showpiece in the office on TOP of being a great performer.
Note: Several more learned folks here have suggested a dye rather than oversaturating the water with Pentosin. I've not yet been able to do this myself, but several have suggested it.
MnM,Quote:
Originally Posted by MnM
I have purchased twice from Petra's.
What I do is generate the product list on their web site. This gives you all the product prices, then I email that product list including prices to Petra's.
Here is my last order to Quoc:
qngo@petrastech.com
Hi again Quoc,
I wish to place another order for delivery to Melbourne, Australia.
2 x AquaXtreme High-Flow Fitting (G 3/8" Thread, 1/2" OD) @ $2.75 = $5.50
20 x 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Tygon R-3603 Laboratory-Grade Tubing @ $3.25 = $32.50
2 x Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke" Concentrated Biocide (10mL) @ $2.50 = $5.00
2 x Pentosin G12 Coolant Additive ("Red" - UV Reactive) - 4oz. @ $4.50 = $9.00
3 x 120mm Sound Vibration Dampener @ $1.79 = $5.37
1 x Power Supply Sound Vibration Dampener @ $1.49 = $1.49
Total: $58.86
I wish to pay using PayPal if I can, otherwise Mastercard.
My delivery address details are:
Name & Address go here :p:
Australia
If you can email back to me the postage rate I will then confirm and place an order for the above parts.
Regards,
Geoff
I also took the time to ring Quoc first thing in the morning (my time) and discuss the order with him.
Once Quoc gets the email, he responds asap with postage costs. I then simply pay them via their PayPal account - that's it, order is them completed. I have also replied to Quoc's email letting them know I have paid via PayPal.
PayPal notification of payment to Petra's is instantaneous, they can see the payment has been made within a few seconds of finalisation of the transaction on PayPal.
Quoc is absolutely fantastic to deal with :) My last order was placed on a Thursday morning (my time) and delivered the following Tuesday..
LOL - NP.Quote:
Sorry geoffp for this little highjack of your thread. BTW I actually got an order in and my UFO should be on its way to me soon :D
Congrats on your purchase. What model and accessories did you purchase from MM.
You will have to start a work log thread with lots of pictures :)
Cheers...
MnM
Geof has set a nice example for build threads. Such a great way to share a buld's ups n downs. Hope yours is smooth.
Mountain Mods cases are very nice and your project too ;)
regards
Thanks for the information. Will email Quoc and see how I go.
I think the standard has been set very high by GeoffP :) and I will try to follow his example.
Been told that my case will be shipping on Monday.
Those are the components ordered:
Products
------------------------------------------------------
6 x Logisys 120mm Quad Blue LED Fan
1 x U2-UFO Opti-1203 Black Powder Coat - Diamond Top
4 x Logisys 80mm Quad Blue LED Fan
3 x 120MM Chrome Grill (120WG)
3 x Mountain Mods 120MM Fan Grill (VERSION 2) Color Mirrored
3 x Mountain Mods black Acrylic 5-1/4 bay cover
1 x ThermoChill PA 120.3 Radiator (PA1203)
3 x 80MM Chrome Grill (80WG)
1 x Dual 12 Inch Blue Cold Cathode Kit
1 x Dual 12 Inch UV Cold Cathode Kit
I will order a few more locally (CPU block, mobo, CPU, power supply and more). This will be a total new build with almost all new components. I hope the new ATI card will be available in Ozz at soon after ATI launches the product :D
1 x U2-UFO Opti-1203 Black Powder Coat - Diamond Top - MOST EXCELLENT CHOICE :DQuote:
Originally Posted by MnM
Looks like this will be a great build - have fun - lots of piccies please....
I'd avoid the diamond top and go with either the original top or big window. The diamond top uses 80mm fans if I remember correctly which add quite a bit of noise. Two 120mm fans with the original top will push the same amount of air at much less noise.
If you prefer to see and show off all of your stuff, the big window is the aesthetically better choice.
you can just set the 80mm to 5v and forget about them, the heat will naturally rise out of the top anyway, it seems to me like the fans on the diamond top are more for decoration anyway
I don't have any fans in the top. Just grills and filters to stop stuff falling in. A bit of natural ventilation, and yep, the diamond top adds a bit more grill bling to the case - however the square open top would allow better visibility inside the case.
for a square opening, put some hinges like sunroof of a car...
What about a remote controlled convertible top :slap:
pretty much read through the whole build up... and all i can say/ write is -Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
WOW thats f***ing fantastic - :shocked:
i love it... excellent :toast: :banana: :toast:
btw... i do not think u are a 'newbie' and u have not really made any 'dumb' decisions, so based on this i will let u build my next computer
:D :p: :D
Why thank you dexster - If you are in Melbourne, OZ, or actually anywhere in OZ I can do that for you :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by dexster
Mind you, it would cost a bit - I spent at least 2 hours labor on this...
BTW - I can't count :p:
adelaide :D
[edit]:- i have done a fair bit of reading on XS , just not posted all that often ;)
Where in Adelaide?Quote:
Originally Posted by dexster
I'm originally from Cowandilla which is near the airport on Sir Donald Brabham Drive.
remote controlled flip top, with some step motors i think.
then controll em with something like those microsoft self learning remotes...
truly extreme mod...
*you could get some nice idea from themodnation.com, very wicked worklogs they have there...
oooohhhhhhhhhh, no words here :slobber:Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Bradman (like the cricketer) not Brabham (like the race car driver) :rolleyes: :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
yeah i know cowandilla , quite to close to where i am ;)
western suburbs of adelaide rock :)
Well, yeh, squooze the spellin, sorry but thatQuote:
Originally Posted by Ambro
cumon, too many suburbs to guess...Quote:
Originally Posted by dexster
NB: was there the week after easter with the family visiting my bro
pm :)
:cool:
Guys how long does Quac at Petras normally take to reply to an email? I have emailed him last night (day time for them quiet early in the morning) but so far nothing. How long did you guys have to wait?
Never more than 8 hours for me so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by MnM
Good news for Aussies- Petra's have Thermochills, at last.
Quoc is usually really fast in answering any question I have to its full entirety. I never have a correspondence where I don't feel satisfied.Quote:
Originally Posted by MnM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
I just sent him a list of parts last night and asked him for a postage quote.
I might send the email again.
be patient i'd say, he has only 2 hands, 1 pair for packing our stuffs, 1 pair for keyboard typing our responses, 1 pair for writing our those notes together with our pens... basically he has a lot of stuff to do every working day.
Hi MnM,Quote:
Originally Posted by MnM
I have actually taken the time out to ring Quoc in the morning Melbourne time (6 to 6:30 am). This catches him in the office late afternoon the day before.
Re my UV Pentosin problem, I have actually dropped two bottles of Red Pentosin (as per my earlier pictures on this thread) into the loop. UV reaction is very mild at best. I might drain the loop and try the blue pentosin I also bought from Petra's.
My uv lighting is ok as other uv reactive cables light up very nicely.
Have to say I thought the reaction would have been more like pictures posted by other people.
What other uv dye's do you ppl use?
GeoffP: as you had your stuff delivered by FedEx I have to ask what ahppened to you and customs (or duties)? Did you have to pay anything?
My stuff is in Alexandria so I want to know :)
One very good reason for keeping each shipment under a grand. Watch out for the rate though Customs uses the OS currency on any invoice and does their own conversion to see if its under the thousand dollars.Quote:
Originally Posted by MnM
That's not the first time I've heard of struggling to get a good look out of red UV loops. Looks great if it's right though.
Hi MnM,Quote:
Originally Posted by MnM
I didn't pay duties on anything I imported.
The U2 was stuck in customs (Alexandria) for a few days. Maybe because of its size, I don't know. It eventually cleared, and nothing else I imported was delayed in customs as well.
Make sure when you check the case that there are no scratches, etc on it. Especially check the drive bays. Anything not right, email MM as they were excellent in replacing my damaged drive bays.
Cheers,
Geoff.
Wasn't aware of this, so any import over AU$1K attracts duty? Looks like I lucked in if that's the case :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
I'm going to drain the loop this weekend and give the blue Pentosin a go. I have two bottles of red Pentosin in the loop with little effect.Quote:
That's not the first time I've heard of struggling to get a good look out of red UV loops. Looks great if it's right though.
Thanks GeoffP for the information.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
This is what I get:
May 10, 2007 8:43 PM
In transit
ALEXANDRIA AU
Package available for clearance
I have also managed to get Quok to ship my items yesterday.
Now you were NOT the one who bought the last bigNG from PCCG were you? :D
Now time to find an international seller of bigNG with good shipping rates to Ozz.
I also need a digital camera (my own broke down a few weeks ago) so I can start a work log.
already told ya that the red pentosin would turned out more pinkish...
this why Petra's has that long life red coolant for more reddish color...
or maybe just add some UV dye?
true enough, customs is really a hassle even here. even on a box of books from amazon worth $100, the greedy customs tax $17...
You should be getting the package shortly then :D Once it was available from customs, I got it within a couple of days - very exciting stuffQuote:
Originally Posted by MnM
You will definitely be getting your stuff from Petra's early next week - they ship real fast (thru customs as well, never had a delay like I did with the UFO)Quote:
I have also managed to get Quok to ship my items yesterday.
No, not me, don't have one.. :p:Quote:
Now you were NOT the one who bought the last bigNG from PCCG were you? :D
Now time to find an international seller of bigNG with good shipping rates to Ozz.
Used my old 4MP camera, worked a treat, as you can tell from my photos :)Quote:
I also need a digital camera (my own broke down a few weeks ago) so I can start a work log.
heh, forgot you mentioned that :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Going to drain the loop, refill and try out the blue pentosin - see how that goes first - will add piccies if it is ok of-course :p:
yep, government says gimme, gimme...Quote:
true enough, customs is really a hassle even here. even on a box of books from amazon worth $100, the greedy customs tax $17...
Mea culpa, mea maxima culpa.Quote:
Originally Posted by MnM
lol
Tried the M-cube shop? I'm not sure what their shipping works out to.
M-cube Store.
My Petra stuff arrived yesterday.
Get this. I ordered and paid Quoc and PCCaseGear on the same day for stock held.
Petra's won the race by one day. Five days to Australia, WTG Petra's!
Kinda sums it up - doesn't it :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
At least PCCaseGear is only 20-30 minutes from me.
Drained the loop - well most of it anyway, couldn't drain the bit between cpu->gpu1->gpu2. Wouldn't come out as the pump was pushing air at that stage - might have to rethink the drain pipe location.
Anyways,
Drained the loop, put in the blue pentosin first, then topped up with distilled water & PT Nuke - soon as I turned on the pump, whole loop filled with micro-bubbles - looked like foam at first.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/134s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/132s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/133s.jpg
Ran the loop for 30 minutes, bubbles have pretty much disappeared. I am wondering if the Pentosin helped create the micro-bubbles, maybe I should have bled the air first, THEN added the Pentosin after?
Totally different from last time when I added distilled water first, bled the air bubbles (which were all fairly large, no micro-bubbles), then added the Pentosin.
Hooked the pc backup as per normal (I have a separate power supply I use when bleeding the system, etc), turned her on, no problems, went off to the bathroom. Came back a few minutes later, BIG OVERHEATING WARNING WINDOW had popped up on the screen.
Quick check of temps showed 99C & 66C - one was for the CPU, other for the GPU - didn't really take the time to delve any further to see what temp belonged to each device, just pulled the plug on the power supply.
Firstly I thought it was caused by the bubbles in the loop - surely not..
Checked a bit further, found that when I plugged the pump molex in, both pins had popped out of the molex connector - no power - no pumping, no cooling!!!
Holy Crap, I was quick lucky I think to find the overheating BEFORE something went bang.
Everything back to normal know, but I'm not sure what program generated the on screen over temperature warning - will have to do some investigating now..
On the brighter side of things, the blue Pentosin is reacting nicely with the UV lights, and the computer seems fine as well.
Have a couple of green cold cathodes to chuck for some mood lighting. Will do that later this weekend and post some piccies, plus night time UV lighting piccies as well :D
quite a story you got there man...glad nothing horrid happened :)
You owe it's creator a beer, for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
No audio alarm sounded? I'd be interested to know what app it was.
The font on the alarm window looked like it was in 640 x 480 display mode - really weird. But only the alarm window, remainder of the screen was still in 1680 x 1050.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
ah lols, this why acrylic/plexi tops for a ddc (in my case) is a must, so that i could see if the pump is running. if restarting pc i have no doubt that the pump would keep on turning, but if fresh power up, i always have to shine some light or touch pump to know and be assured that it is running, wouldn't want to fry another gpu...
I can see if the pump is running by looking at the small tornado in my res, but I didn't check it in this particular incident :slap:Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
So Septim, you have lost a GPU to a failure?
My M-cube should shut her down if the pump stops, amongst other parameters.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Firstly,
Finally got the micro-bubbles out the loop - the blue looks heaps better than pinkish red :p:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/135s.jpg
UV lighting..
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/136s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/137s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/138s.jpg
Green Cold Cathode lighting..
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/139s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/140s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/143s.jpg
A bit of both
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/141s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/142s.jpg
UV http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/145s.jpg Green http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/146s.jpg Both http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/147s.jpg
UV http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/148s.jpg Green http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/149s.jpg Both http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...UBEIT/150s.jpg
Photos don't actually do it justice, gotta see it with your own eyes - the UV blue is really subtle, but still stands out very nicely.
Green looks great, and together, the UV blue in the loop gradually changes to green the closer the loop gets to the green cold cathode light :cool:
very, very happy :D :D
Hi Jedda,Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Can you post the actual part(s) you are using. Maybe i am blind, looked at the M-Cubed site, apart from the T-Balancer can't see any other control equipment.
I bought a BigNG, 2 MiniNG's, and 1 Sensorbus.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
The BigNG is the daddy of them all and connect's via internal serial cable to your motherboard. From there it monitor's everything from temperatures from either a) onboard temp gauges, b) it's own analog temp gauges c) its down digital temp gauges.
Based on the values of the temp readings, it adjusts the fan speed of all the fans connected to it. The miniNG is an extension (add on) that lets you control additional fans or up to two Liang DDC-2 pumps. The pumps can also be controlled through software based on whatever parameters you choose as well. It's software will inform you of a pump failure and perform a windows shutdown in such a case.
The sensor bus addon gives you an additional 6 temp gauges and gives you the ability to perform a hard shutdown (via the power button). You connect your power button to the sensor bus, the sensor bus then connects to your motherboard's power pins. This way, in case the window's shut down doesn't work, the hard shutdown is triggered by the sensorbus in case of high temps or pump failure.
wife factor and little baby factor to consider...
That is why I got myself the mcube setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
GeoofP - you do NOT need the miniNG. As you are running an MCP655 pump there is no way for you to monitor the so calle "RPM" of the pump.
I got myself the bigNG from www.Performance-PCs.com as Jedda beat me to it at PCAseGear. DO NOT buy from mcubed site. Shipping prices there are shocking (~US 200 for FedEx to OZZ while at Performance-PCs.com I got 29 USD for EMS 2-3days).
I also got the sensor hub addon from http://www.hboutlet.com.au/catalog/p...ducts_id=27654
This the addon that will give you instant shutoff via a 24 pin connector between the power supply and motherboard (or at least that is what I understood from my research). I havent got any of this stuff yet. All arriving next week so that is all that I can comment.
Lastly I alsomost got the MCP655 from PCCG but due to NO rpm cable I got the DDC-2 18v from Petras. You run this off a normal 4 pin molex connector for power and it has a 3 pin connecotr as well for rpm monitoring. Then you use the binG software to monitor the PRM on the pump and configre the hard shut down options as desired.
Geoff,
Ranker covered it exactly.
I got a T-balancer BigNg, a Sensor Hub and a MiniNG to drive the pump.
The MiniNG is required due to wattage limitations on the Big unit. The big one being intended for fans.
Any LCD panel can hook up to it too and display whatever you like.
They are much smaller than you'd think. The sensor hub is 60 x 35 x 20 mm.
I'm adding the extra digital temp sensors and intend both in and out temps for air and water. Should be interesting being able to see where the heat really goes for the first time ever as fans are varied etc.
Edit
MnM is correct re the power off switch and the sensor hub. They even include a spare case button switch as well as wires to mobo and case switch and a little black box for driving two light tubes in the sensor hub stuff. Mine came from HB-Outlet yesterday.
One thing not discussed so far is the allowence for monitoring flow rate. Most WC folk hate the restrictions inherit in the devices and the one M-cube use seems fairly bad in that respect.
A year or so ago guys here evaluated one of the least restrictive flow meters a Swiftflow SF800. If anyone is interested they've become available from the previously uninterested manufacturer at 25 euros each with 8 euros PnP to australia. I'm still undecided.
OK URL please? And can this flow monitor can somehow hook into mcubed devices? You are right nobody wants to use the mcubed flow monitor as they restrict the flow too much...Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Also Jedda,
Please xplain to me how the minNG works with the pump. Can you monitor anything with the miniNG in regards to the pump? I have not seen any information in regards to this so I am thinking that apart from powering the pump there is nothing else that the unit can do that is pump related. And then I asked myself whats the use of miniNG if it can not detect pump failure and such? Maybe I didnt understant the whole minNG so if you know more please xplain...
Swissflow it wires in just like the usual flow meter.
Here's a thread where the guys discuss this back when Swissflow wouldn't retail at all.
The pump connects to a miniNg so that it's read as if a fan rpm, hence its recognized if it stops or slows a lot and the software then acts as you have it set. Main difference is the miniNg can supply a higher draw to the pump. It's cooling is better. The T-bal BigNg stops PWM mode if it overheats and switches modes. MiniNg is designed to overcome this for a high draw item like the pump or delta fans, and stay in PWM mode to read pump speed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...iniNgpumpo.png
hMMM ok which pump are we taking about here? For Geoffp he can not use as his MCP655 does not come with 3 wire for RPM.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
THe DDC-2 (which is the one that I got), has 4 molex plug for power and a 3 wire (or maybe just one wire) for RPM monitoring.
With this setup why do one still needs the miniNG? Pump gets its current from power supply and bigNG does the monitoring. Thats my understanding at least. Can you confirm this? And could you please let me know what pump you have?
Thanks for the link to flow monitor. I am looking inot that right now. maybe is somehting worth getting.
I have flavour of the day, DDC-2 +Petra head.
The 4 wire power lead is connected to bus B of the MiniNg. The three wire rpm lead goes to the mobo where it can be read by the software/firmware.
Normally the rad fans would g on A bus.. The jumpers are set for both buses depending on what and how is connected. The MiniNg is just a higher power better cooled (big heat sink) version of two buses of the BigNg.
You can hook up to the BigNg the same but more likely to have probs with draw and it doesn't have the hard shut down kit.
The thing is so configureable its impossable to get a layout diagram for all possibilities. But most has been covered on one of the forums or the other.