All that means is that only 5% will fail instead of 10% (made up numbers). There will still be defects.Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
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All that means is that only 5% will fail instead of 10% (made up numbers). There will still be defects.Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
How about 0.1%?? That's a typical out-of-the-box fail rate with good QC. I was a member of a QC team a few years ago and that was what we found to be acceptable...one in one thousand fail rate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bun-Bun
The magic point I think is that for maybe 1-2C you'd take a chance that something was slowly degrading in your rig, such that you might have a catastrophic failure and never know it. It's a small chance, probably very small given all that's gone into it, but it is there. And a warranty is only going to replace that $70 block, not the 000's of $ in other items that might go poof in the night...
I like the block and have many Swiftech products over the years, so this is not a company fault. It's just what you are comfortable with for risk.
Kinda funny though how many pages we can argue over 0-2C improvements :) but that's us!
Very very nice block
That's why I said they were made up numbers. It totally depends on the manufacturing process and a lot of other things. For the stuff I have been designing recently there is a 1 PPM acceptable failure... I tell you a lot of thought has to go into that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
The chances are small but they are there none the less.
BTW I minored in statistics in manufacturing/QC
Bun-Bun, are you saying the Apogee GTX has a chance of failure but other blocks don't? What if one day something went wrong and a block was screwed while milling, and it leaked on you after a few days?
My Coolant = water.
I don't have any corrosion protection so my rule is no aluminium. Nice block and I'm sure it performs well. Well enough for me to chose it over a non mixed metal block? Nope, fraid not.
Hope those who buy it are happy with their purchase but not for me, rather safe than sorry.
I am pretty sure this corrosion deal is being completely blown out of proportion for this block. I am confident Gabe is not going to release a product that will fail and ruin are systems. There is a five-year warranty to top it all off. The only reason I didn't order this block is because I am cheap. ;)
well, I believe plating or anodize is good enough for a cpu block. defects happen. but generally the defects that you found on the block on your hands will be more likely from inaccurate process rather than plating. that makes plating a rationally small problem.
consider this, if the plate fails and corrosion happens, it can still be plated again. but if the block is not accurately machined. it often has huge impact on the cooling result and mostly can not be fixed.
say I'm using whole copper block and what do I get, I can sand it from time to time. I don't think it's big gain..
any way, I hope swiftech to change their mind and make some brass version. water cooling is becoming more and more customer oriented. maybe it's not just safe or performance wise. people just want it that way, as the same people just want their pc water-cooled. deal with them. even beautiful aqua plex blocks has copper option.
Wait a minute, are you saying brass corrodes itself?????Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
you missed that he said aluminum.
No, your post in the other thread, and according to that thing, it seems that zinc and copper corrode each other (which they don't, brass hello!)Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
Hey what happened to brass tops? [choke choke cough]Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
Whatever happened to people complaining about brass tops? Seriously, I thought brass tops were supposed to be good, and now this is being shoved in my face?Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
Yea, but your post in the anodized aluminum thread implies that brass and copper WILL have problems ;) Zinc was listed even farther away from copper than aluminum.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
no, his post (Gabriel Noraa, post #39 as referenced in post #211 of this thread) says:
Quote:
For me, mixing Aluminium and Copper/Brass in the same loop it's totally forbiden. Never again.
I haven't read the whole thread, just parts of it so if I say something taht has already been mentioned please do not get upset. I usually hate stepping into these "battles" but I have some insight for the doubters. I have several friends in the Aeronautical industry. In planes they use aluminum in areas where it contacts other metals such as stainless steel and titanium which just as easily corrode the aluminum. They take the necessary precautions and treat the aluminum with necessary agents to prevents erosion from occurring. From the sounds of it Swiftech is properly treating the aluminum for the application and there should be no worry about using a GTX in your loop. Finally if it really worries you to have aluminum and copper in the same loop just run some Pentosin in the loop for extra security.
[sigh]Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
Brass is an alloy of zinc and copper ;)
I can compare them, and I did. The comparison was largely 'color', but I suppose if you are determined to pick an argument you will find cause for one anywhere. The water your motorcycle is exposed to may be somewhat acidic, and lacking in anti-corrosives, but it isn't steeped in it all day, or at temperatures above ambient, and yet, nevertheless, corrosion occurs.Quote:
Originally Posted by NysoO
Moreover, I fail to see a point here? Do you mean that anodized waterblocks don't corrode? We have seen plenty of pictures that show that they do, so it's pretty hard to argue that point without being plain contrary. As for the impact of that corrosion on the entire system, and whether it resulted in destroyed equipment, on that point there is plenty of room for debate.
The final 'icing' on this cake is that I was making a point about plating being confused with anodization (yet again) by people who seem to be lazy readers (if I give them the benefit of the doubt). If I wasn't giving them the benefit of the doubt, I'd say they were doing it on purpose, just to get attention.
And just for those lazy readers, I'll point out (again) that imperfections in the plating would not necessarily completely negate its protective value, because it's based on a zincate layer.
That said, if the block did have an imperfection, we've already established that anyone other than a complete muppet would discover the problem long before it did significant damage to other components in their system and they could get a new (presumably un-flawed) block from Swiftech under their 5-year guarantee.
That chart had errors in it. Also, if we like to be accurate we can't talk about anything as vague as 'classes' of nobility, there are only voltage differentials, and the differential is the key. Just arranging metals in order on a list omits important information about their absolute value.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
As one gets down towards copper, the differences start to vanish, hence copper and silver don't corrode each to speak of, even though they are several metals apart in a suitably expansive list. Of course, time-scale makes a difference: anyone who wants to talk about lifespans beyond a couple of years for a block, please don't, because that's so far off typical it's just a point of confusion.
On that point we disagree. How would you discover it? Take apart the loop? Physically check the block? An airplane that has an issue with corrosion can be physically inspected and I'd bet that the dissimilar metals are used only in areas where such inspection can be easily done. Of course we "can" take apart our loops every 6 months and insure that nothing goes wrong. But are you going to rip apart your rad to discover if the corrosion is landing in there?Quote:
That said, if the block did have an imperfection, we've already established that anyone other than a complete muppet would discover the problem long before it did significant damage to other components in their system and they could get a new (presumably un-flawed) block from Swiftech under their 5-year guarantee.
What I'm indicating here is that there is a level of impracticality in this scenario. There are a lot of loops out here that don't undergo surgury every 6 months to be certain everything is in good shape. And short of that the effects are out of sight. Are they catastrophic? They might be or they might not be. But there is very little practical way of insuring you aren't the 1 in xxxxx who is about to have a problem. And yes, if the failure occurs around the O-ring area, you could have a serious problem one day when you had no problem the day before.
Again, this isn't meant to be doom and gloom. What I'm indicating is that there are competing parts at the same price and nearly or equally the same performance without this risk. To me the choice is logical and simple. But some may be far happier with a bit more performance and a level of maintenance they've gotten accustomed with.
What I am trying to indicate is there is no way short of checking carefully and regularly to mitigate the risk.
$.02
Okay okay so has anyonr bought one yet, got it and found it is indeed cooler?
I know there are 2 in the UK and im tempted to go for it!
What happend to his test of the D-tek Fuzon with the nozles as well
I'd like to see how many will still be held back by the alu top, if results turn out to be top notch... ;)
Patience my man. I have two sitting in a box at home. I already have a bet going. My brother and I are going to have a showdown, drag racer style. He's bringing over his system with a D-Tek. Winner takes home the other's brother's cpu! And he paid more than full price for his Kentsfield :D {evil grin}... ssshhh.. his system doesn't have much radiator power :D :D I'm looking forward to a free cpu... :lol2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete
How about that for a rigged bet eh? :lol2:
I'll stick with the storm block...
Your right, other defects could happen. But if you start worrying about every defect possible then you might as well live in a box with nothing in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
Machining defects are something that could be found in any block, so it is impossible to get around it. However choosing not to have aluminum in the loop is possible. I know when ever I design something I design it for the least defects possible. Adding aluminum just complicates things regardless of the steps you take to prevent it.
I agree. The loop I am building right now is meant to be a low maintenance machine. I have had it with taking my computer apart and do stuff do it. I hate the down time. I want one good lan party rig that just works. Ill empty the loop every 6 months and refill it but thats about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anemone
You wont see me buying it as long as there is no other tops for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeBar
The only way I would even consider this block is:
1. Gabe makes other non aluminum tops for it.
2. My OC is hurting with D-Tek Fuzion and Apogee GTX will garentee the OC I want.
3. The Apogee GTX beats everything on the market by 10° max load on any CPU.
As I said before, I really like the look/performance potential of this block. But I can not ignore the Aluminum that is in it and I hope gabe will take maxxxracer's suggestion into consideration.
Let's see some performance numbers first and then judge. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bun-Bun
My point was that many ppl here tend to adopt other ppl's opinion. One minor example is the low restrictive block praise after the ApogeeGT/Fusion results. Many were the same ppl that praised Storm's design... :rolleyes:
So you're saying the same person can not praise two different designs?
Of course they can, just like I love Mazda and the RX-8 and Honda S2000.
It wasn't the users opinion on the blocks designed that changed, it was the fact moving to IHS'd / Dual die processors made one design favourable to the other.
The FuZion is designed well because it cools the above processors and has great flow rate.
The Storm / impingement system is designed well because it was champ for so many years on single die / IHS less processor. Yeah it had high resistance but it was the jet impingment that made the block what it is / was.
Both great designs, doesn't mean anyone is in the wrong for liking them both.
As Cathar stated before the gains between todays blocks can only be minimal. Blocks have come so far and there are so many top notch blocks on the market I really don't see how you can go wrong with any of the top competitors. JMO
I will wait for hard data before passing any judgement. I am still wanting to see how the MP-05 SP LE stacks up in the mix.
You do realize that this is all a diabolical scheme by the waterblock manufactures to get us all to buy more waterblocks. They are implanting subliminal messages in the pictures of the waterblocks causing us to have uncontrollable urges to pull out the plastic and buy, buy buy! :D :D
I think nikhsub1's testing is going to become I very important piece of information on these forums.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
I can not wait to see his results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
sorry to say bud but cathar is probably wrong in this regard. i've heard so many ppl say air coolers are at their peak they can only get better by a few degrees yadda yadda yadda...
1year later there are sinks that are beating the best of yesteryear by 2-3 degrees and more comming out that are pushing the top of the top from back when statements like that we're made.
to be honest, cathar is credited with pushing the bar on watercooling and i respect that but making statements like that are very misleading and not typical of someone who likes to better results but rather an idea.
a minimal gain in velocity induced turbulance is most likely what cathar was referring to but you gain a fraction here and there from other changes and you end up with a block that's better than the best could do at the time.
there are plenty of improvements to be made in current block technology i'm sure, swiftec has proven that with the apogee and now the storm is nowhere to be seen on these forums.
if minimal gains we're to be seen in any form, the storm would be still be a top contender aside the apogee and the d-tek.
my point is a comment like that is very misleading.
cathar wasn't referring to waterblocks in general but his design in principal and his ideas.
I predict that if nikhsub's testing convinces enough people to buy it, either a new top will be released, or someone will make one ;) and sell it aftermarket, or if that doesn't happen, the most desperate people who are paranoid will get a copper top milled for them ;)
Unless swiftech makes one readily available for the same (or similar price) then why would you go for it over a GT or Fuzion? It is not worth the hassle unless you are just doing it for the hobby.Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
Yea actually if you're gonna make a top then it would be better to just mod the GT to have the barbs like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bun-Bun
An ordered list of metals is still not the same as a chart showing their position on the voltage scale, and creates all kinds of deceptions of difference and similarity in potential. I'm out of this thread, it's started to become distinctly circular.
blah... to bring this thread back to topic:
I currently bought one. I have a D-Tek, but i wont be able to compare it with the GTX. The D-tek is on my NAS, and my main rig was on a apogee while waiting a new block replacement.
I can compare the results to my current apogee, however, 2 new blocks will be added onto my current loop. NB and SB. If that means anything to you guys, i can post a quick TAT b4 i dismantle her.
Current settings are:
L631B120 E6600 @ 3.45 @ 1.375V
Mobo: Evga 680i-AR <i got the A1 revision. Thats the reason for the swap>
GFX cards: 7900GT /w EK 7900
Before you guys flame me for the full covered blocks:
My loop:
Thermochill PA120.2
BlackICE GTS 120x1
Laing DDC-2 /w PetraTop x 2
< soon apogeeGTX this wednesday >
DD 680i
Swiftech MCW30 SB
EK 7900 x 2
EK Reservoir.
Lookin' forward to the results!
My GTX arrived today... I have the Apogee GT on the testbed now, I have 2 mounts done with the bowed base. I had to scrap the MCW6002 test for now, SOMETHING is not right with the mounts. My CPU imprint is on even close to center... i have tried every orientation too - my block is NOT stepped. Has ANYONE run an MCW600x on 775? If so what orientation? Got pics?
okey, i have some aweful news for you guys.
As i was running Orthos last night, my board finally decided to kick the bucket.
So i cant get an accurate screenie, because my board wont boot up into windows anymore.
Im fairly sure its the board finally crapping out. Anyhow, i'll see if i can somehow rebuild the OS, or boot her into safe mode, and try to do a thermal load on both cores with a screenie.
But as for now, with the settings above, the last coretemp i took was roughly 41C with a regular apogee loaded, and it was around 39C with the d-tek if i last remember it.
Blah... heres crossing my fingers, and cursing this dayam AR revision. Thank god i have an A1 waiting for on my desk. But stupid ups says 4/4 for my tubes and block to arrive
Anyhow, lemme see if i can work some magic on the board and try to bring it back to life long enough for a quick thermal load.
okey after trying to debug my board for the past i dun know, 1hour and half? im out of time and need to goto work. :P
I managed to get it booted again, by doing a cmos reset, and i took it back to its funky board settings. 3.4ghz see specs above.
The reason why i think its my board is because b4 i flashed her, she was doing orthos @ 3.6ghz perfectly, for over 11 hours. I flashed my board on haste.
LAST UPDATE: Until im back from work :P
Anyhow, she wont do orthos more then 20min. Something on my board causes her to just lock up. As i have said, i have a A1 waiting to get swaped. Just no GTX block to mount. Since i am going to bow it, i cant afford mounting the spare in right now, and wait on the GTX. Bow mounting i heard can be a serious PITA.
a Bit of irony, and im sure Gabe will have a cow. Im going to use a thermaltake BT backplate to help mount my GTX. ahahaha.. who would of thought i would use a thermaltake product on my waterloop :P i guess the sky did fall.
Anyhow the 15 min orthos i was able to load pulled off a 40C max temp on both cores, at 65F ambient intake temp /w a regular apogee. Messured on my battery thermo in the front intake. I have another side intake and i should take a messurement of that since its dictates my second radiator.
Voltage on core is about 1.3625V currently. I wish i could do a 30 min orthos, but you guys will have to be happy with 15 min, until someone with a full work bench can finish the apogeeGTX review.
TO: IanY
Is there a mounting orentation required on the GTX for better performance? i cant see how having water travel down vs sideways would bring any beneifit in performance. I know you have th match the diamond pins when reassembling the block, but do you need to stick with a particular mounting orientation on the GTX?
I got my GTX just two days after I received that new Swifty TEC block the MCW6500-T....so I had the rig all prepped for the TEC block. The TEC block is quite nice. With my Meanwell SP320-13.5 powering it I am hitting -9c idle measured in BIOS and like 13-15c on TAT with my E6300 cranked up to 3.5ghz at 1.6vcore. I had to seperate the CPU from the GPU loop as the TEC dumps a @$$ load of heat into the loop. Water temps rising to 32c++ under load. With seperate loops the water temps are down to like 27C at load...about 5c above room ambient...like I like them...
Anyway...I'll be switching that block out for the Apogee GTX so I might have a few informal results for just the GTX and in a few weeks I'll be publishing the formal results of the GTX vs the GT vs the Storm vs the Fuzion vs who ever else sends me a CPU block to add to the fray! :)
Out of curiosity, how hard is it to go from Watercooling to TEC? How much would the step up take and what parts usually need to be added or redone?Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
Insulation, PSU, a lot of radiatorage, coldplate (unless the block comes with one), and to top it off, ginormous power consumption.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
Oh and Philly Boy, are you going to try out that block w/o the TEC?
I had an MCW6002 with a non-stepped base running on my P5W DH for a bit. I took it off, as I just got an Apogee GT in the mail today, and the thermal paste hardly looked like it spread at all. I'm using MX-1, which I've read requires a larger application than anything Arctic Silver puts out, so that could also be the reason, but I was getting awful temps. I could only boot into windows for 20 minutes at a time.Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
I'll give the MCW6002 a try on my Biostar 965PT tomorrow sometime and see if it mounts cleanly or not. I mounted it on the P5W DH with the outlet in the top left corner and the longer arms of the mounting plate to the right.
First you'll need to be sure your exiting loop is very solid...triple 120mm rad...push/pull fans...higher end pump...etc. You'll also need to invest in a seperate PSU to power the TEC...Meanwell is a popular brand...they cost about $120US plus shipping.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
I am using the loop as stated in my sig...just for the MCW6500-T plus two small fairly unrestrictive blocks on the NB and SB. With six 89cfm fans in push/pull at 12v my idle water temps are hovering at 24c and that goes up to 26-27c under any kind of load. I also had to condensation proof my mother board. Guides can be found in the Phase Change section as stickies.
I am getting nice temps...but haven't really begun to see how that benefits my overclock. I also have a seperate loop where I have two TEC driven blocks on my 8800GTX's. In ambient 22c room air (no cold air induction...) I am getting 20c idle at stock 8800 clocks and 25c with them overclocked to 681/1070.
Waiting for a cold night so I can stick both rads in my cold air induction system that blows 4-5c air over the rads ducted in from the outside. I'll be volt modding my mobo next as well as the 8800's to make a run at the first page of the ORB in 3D Mark 05/06. I think 3.6 or 3.7ghz is possible from my outstanding little E6300 with this set up...and 06 runs of 22,000 should also be doable.
No, I will keep the 6500-T as a TEC set up. The GPU blocks that run the 226 watt TECs on the 8800GTX's are frankensteined MCW60 tops with Apogee GT bases with the larger o-ring to bow the base. I chose the Apogee GT base because it is flat (no bump out like the MCW60) and the same size as the TEC and the cold plates. BTW...my power bill only rose like $5 for running the TEC's 24/7 for 7 days straight to burn them in. I'll gladly pay that for better performance. The myth of huge power consumption with TEC's is just that...a myth...Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
Interesting... You're getting those results with a GTX240 rad? Very interesting...
And the power consumption issue, I still don't like inefficient things but wow those are some pretty good results. lol but for the people with tons of computers crunching the power issue becomes a problem ;) why using a 200W 1/5hp phase system is like off limits (and your TECs are using how much?).
Have you thought of putting a bigger rad on the GPU loop?
Orly? Be glad you don't live in southern California. I pay ~.18 per Kwh. My office is a studio apartment, maybe 600 sq feet. I have no AC, no kitchen, no heaters NOTHING but lights and 2 computers. $100/month electric bill. With a TEC i guarantee you that would double to $200/month.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
Take a look, its not just 1 TEC, its THREE!!!! :eek: 3 226/320 TECs... I wonder what impact 960W would have on your power bill :rolleyes: (and some people are complaining about running a 1/5hp compressor on their CPU 24/7)Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
actually i can vouch for it. I noticed a hugh increase in my elec. bill. I also live in cali. It got bad enough to require me to pull them off. And i was seeing increases in the high double digit.Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
GAH i miss TEC's. Nothing beats watching your friends go WTF!?!?!? when they see your CPU idling in sub degree's :D Well maybe sex.. and beer... and well a lot of things, but you get my point!.
Anyhow i should get my GTX block tommarrow as well. I will bow my setup, with a thermaltake bt backplate. I cant wait, because my A1 revision board has been looking at me funny since friday of last week. After its all setup, then its off to FEDEX to send back my craptastic AR board.
Rest in Piece you POS!!!!
Considering I live in the O.C. in Southern California, I guess it'll be a no go for me then just due to power consumption costs alone.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
man i am getting new CPU block ... cant decide between the GTX or the Swiftech TEC for conroe 775 ... h... sign]
btw i see many people quaote iany , but cant find his post b4 post #200 .. but there r people quote him on posts say #50. what gives?
btw hows the insulation of the water block?? do i need to do anything?? or does the water block has it all?
guys im deciding between Apogee GTX , Apogee GT , or Aqua Mp-05 PRO or Aqua MP-05 SP
from vr zone it seems like that MP 05 PRO is slightly better than GT, but i wanna see how GTX vs MP-05 SP
Sorry to hear that...I think we pay like 0.04525/kw hr. My old studio apt had ac, electric heat electric stove and my single stage running 24/7 and the bill was never more than $92 in the dead heat of summer running the ac at max 24/7. Most of the time it averaged around $45.Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
eyehaychoo!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
*looking at grumbling jealousy*
Anyhow waiting patiently today for UPS to come. Do you guys want pics of the block? or is enough spamed thoughout the web?
You should delete this post, the DC guys are gonna start running after you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
okey so i got my block right now as we speak. UPS man finally came.
Last calls on pictures. I'll give ya until 1:30pm PST to decide. After that im going to be away for about 5-6 hours reasembling my loop.
PICS!!!!! we need pics lol.
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO~ i personally have always valued your imput. Even tho i dont have many posts, ive been consistantly reading these forums, and learning, having you avoid one whole catigory of brand, would be a very big loss.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
Anyhow the moment you guys all been waiting for!
Package:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0556.jpg
Block thiness:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0557.jpg
Inside the TOP: i know you guys been waiting for this:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0558.jpg
Close up of the pins:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0559.jpg
This does look sexy, exactly what gabe wanted: :D
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0565.jpg
Ummm those of you that are evga 680i owners. You seriously need to redue the tim on the NB. Look at mine!?!?!
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0562.jpg
Taking last min picture request!! i cant wait anymore on my mobo swap. I'll give ya to 2:30. Still need to mount my SB correctly.
GABE: i have one problem with this block so far. The mounting screws arent long enough if your using a backplate with padding. ~ 1/4 of an inch is required on the back for a typical backplate + neoprene padding. I think screws about 1/2 an inch longer would help out a lot for people wanting to mount this block with a backplate.
EDIT: 2 okey u guys. im going to rebuild now. I'll talk to you guys again when she's back up. Other then the short screws, there seems to be nothing wrong with block. It looks absolutely wonderful. I already bowed the block, added the TT backplate, and im almost ready to mount.
The SB is annoying the crap out of me tho....
I guess it's a little too late to ask for pics of this, but if you ever (or hopefully someone else who assembles this block soon) could take pics of the underside of the top after the barbs are put in, that'd be great. It doesn't look like it'd be a big deal though. I have a problem with the apogee regular in that the delrin top is curved to direct water in a certain pattern. However, with the barbs screwed all the way in, it sticks out beyond the curve of the delrin and disrupts proper flow in the block itself.
I personally think that the Apogee GTX is a sharp looking block. As someone mentioned it reminds me of an Edelbrock valve cover. :)
just bought it from petras
i have :
T line > D5 > Black ICE GT 360 RAD > GTX > T line
well i dont have any otehr water block to compare it to... so ....
here r half resolution pix:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...SC000891-1.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...SC000901-1.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...SC000911-1.jpg
here r full:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o.../DSC000891.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o.../DSC000901.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o.../DSC000911.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by theteamaqua
Are those EVGA cards? If so, you want to swap my green PCB for your black PCB?
My rig doesn't look right with miss matched cards and I don't think I am the only one :stick:
BFG + EVGA works flawsly i did scored 16000 on 3dmark06 ... so yeah they performed just fine
Wich one is the EVGA?Quote:
Originally Posted by theteamaqua
the green 1, card 1 is EVGA . the black one is BFG ... EVGA runs about 10C hotter than BFG .. for some reason (even when i have BFG in slot 1 , and EVGA in slot 3, EVGA still runs about 8 C hotter)
but the funny thing is that it actually has more airflow from what i can feel than the BFG .... i think its sensor is messed up
i already did. its that black picture with two holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by ziddey
Anyhow... umm....
i have some bad news..
This block is decimating my fusion. Its bowed for those of you wondering, and im seeing a difference even tho my loop hasnt been completely been bleeded.
i'll give you a screenie after i let this thing bleed a bit more, and settle.
But yeah.. this block is not funny from the looks of it right now.
Just to give you guys a headsup on what i mean. On 1.4V @ 3.6ghz on a E6600 L631B120
Im idling at 23C on both cores ambients about 65F. And no im not kidding. Thats with 2FC blocks, nb, sb.
My old temp apogee was doing it at 28C on these settings. My dtek about 25C. Also coretemp reports the CPU cooled after load a lot faster then the apogee and D-tek.
But yeah, its definitely a lot more restrictive then my D-tek. But this block might prove better, and not by a little either.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...lipboard01.jpg
23C mmmmmmmm.... i likes.... :P
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
Naw... naw... how can that possibly be ? :D
I would comment on a 4 degree difference, but I'm not credible and no one would believe me anyway :)
Andy,Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
I would use the word "decimate" but then that would create a whole new Fatwah and then a Jihad :D
well mcoffy, you also have to count i have 2 more blocks added to my loop.
DD 680i
and MCW30 on the SB.
So i am starting to think maybe more then iany's estimates. I think this thing does tons better with more flow.
I have 2 DDC-2's incase your wondering.
curious are you using Big typhoon backplate?Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
yes neal, i am aigomorla over at anand. Long story why the different name tho. :P
And yeah im using a BT backplate.
Anyhow, heres a really crappy orthos.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p.../ApogeeGTX.jpg
Ouch... i'll do a longer one later on. But yeah, this GTX is seriously scary.
Those that want to see how well of a Lap i did: i went up to 1200 grit incase your wondering :P
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0569.jpg
My motherboard bend from bow mounting:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0570.jpg
And neal's backplate question: <which is irony. i swore i would never touch TT in my h2o cooling -_-;; >
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0571.jpg
nice i am benching mine now as well:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Shot00311.jpg
what temp and voltage monitoring prog is that in the background?
What were your load temps with the Apogee GT and Fuzion? Idle temps don't mean much.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
In other words, bowed GTX with lapped CPU is marginally better than D-Tek while having several times more flow resistance?
Well all these blocks have pretty low pressure drop. D-tek Fuzion has the lowest of all blocks by far...thanks to the tiny round pins.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cronos
Can we quit with the crap that's being filled in this thread. I own a D-Tek fuzion and an Apogee GT. I'm interested in knowing how this GTX performs without fanboys or cheerleaders from either camp trying to infuse this thread with cynical remarks that are unneeded. I thought the :banana::banana::banana::banana:ing fanboy wars between Wii, PS3, and the 360 were pathetic but seriously guys, give it a rest.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cronos
Let the man give out his results and take it as is without the "OMGZ U USED L33T HAX, DTEK RULZ"
It works with 7 series? I thought it only worked for G80s.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
4C (is that right?) is well within mount deviation anyway, it doesn't necessarily demonstrate anything. Mount might have been bad before, or new mount particularly good. Given the pressure applied, and the addition of the backplate, maybe that makes the difference.
It will be funny if Tt sales jump up because people are buying their blocks and throwing them away to get the plate - basically what I did.
I think you can buy the plate by itself tho. Just couldn't find one for sale at the time.
I expected the GTX to look better than that in situ. I kinda prefer the GT look.
Well, lemme me straight up and front with you guys. I am not a swiftech fan boy, nor have i shown any favoritism to one block.
I am a waterblock whore. I have a Storm rev.2, TDX, Apogee, ApogeeGT, D-tek Fusion, and my new addition the ApogeeGTX.
As i said i havent finished my testing yet. I want to give my system a few days for the coolant to settle, and all the last min bubbles to disapate. Remember i did a entire mobo swap as well as relooping my entire system, with the addition of 2 extra blocks on my loop. And with these 2 blocks added, the temps were still LOWER then the d-tek fusion. I think this itself should merit something.
Anyhow somewhere last night she blue screened after about 5 hours. I dont know exactly why or where, but i need to keep my voltage at 1.425 to do an accurate comparision /w my D-tek config i used a while back.
But i can tell you guys some facts, and these are totally unbais statements.
1. bowing does improve performance, and i mean by a lot where its noticible.
2. I seriously wouldnt recomend telling a newbie to buy a GTX or a GT and bow the block, and mount it.
3. If your also running a multi block design with a single pump. < DDC-2 /w petratop. I highly advise you using a D-tek.
When i was messing with it, i turned off one of my pumps, and my temps shot up nearly 8C. The d-tek had less of a delta with 1 pump going. i think it was around a delta of 5-6C.
So on a single pump, i think its safe to say, this block would perform a TAD bit better then the d-tek provided your cooling just the CPU.
Anyhow, lemem figure out why she bluescreened last night at 5 hours. I think it was my ram timings. I was tweeking them last night b4 i went to bed.
Lastly, i wouldnt trust Nmonitor to messure any temps but my video cards, and NB/SB. I just displayed them because my evga board plays nicely with ntune. It does show accurate voltage and CPU settings. I always post a CoreTemp next to anything i post, because this seems to get the fan boys of one block, to accept my findings.
So, no, anyone that doesnt use coretemp, or TAT to monitor temps, to me = retarded.
Common, my coretemp says 37C while nview says 53C that itself should tell you a lot.
Also i think i failed to mention that both my gfx cards are overvolted to 1.5V i havent gotten around to push them to 700mhz @ SLI yet. Once i do that, were also in a new ballgame since my loop isnt independant.
But if you guys are really finding the ultimate waterblock, Its made by swiftech, and its called the MCW6500T :P aka there TEC block.
You've done well. You don't need to justify anything to anyone. If in every instance in your post above, you changed every "Apogee GTX" to "D-Tek FuZion," no one would question you, and you would become the new hero. And they like to accuse others of misplaced enthusiasm...
Pity the MCW6500 has a 226watt TEC. Its may not be enough for a nuclear reactor of a cpu.