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had the same issue on my first board. temps even reached 100C after a few minutes in bios and the board shut itself down!Quote:
Originally Posted by JenBell
replaced the tim brought temps down to about 50C. figured out later, one of the dimm slots was dead so i had the board to rma anyway ...
second board was in the 50C range from the beginning.
as i'm not the first reporting this, there is obviously an issue with tim on some boards.
I had the same temps when i got the board.Quote:
Originally Posted by JenBell
1) replace the stock IOH heatsink with optional one
2) clean the paste and apply as5
3) if your case take side fans push fresh air directry to IOH and ICH
With ambient around 23c you must have ~40c on ICH/IOH
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/1483/temps1600.png
^^ What have you been able to manage for max oc on your 960? I put mine in last night because of my bclk limitation with the board, but even with the 25multi my chip sucks.
23x192 (4400+) with ht on and 1.42 vcore is the max i can do with this chip.Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Nub
Always with my corsair h50.
Nice, better than my chip will do, even on cool water.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatonian71
Quote:
Originally Posted by bro20000
Im sorry... HOW THE HELL is that a good result?
THis board costs 400-600$ in europe some places. Ive seen ppl doing 260BCLK on this board, thats a GOOD result.
I mean anyone doing UNDER 230BCLK on this board is PATHETIC.
Ive read through some 5-10pages at the moment this thread and most of it is bollocks, does noone know how to overclock anymore?
Im paffeled, whats happened to this forum... no one overclocks, all i can see is that u guys have big pockets full of money, buy expensive stuff to run them at default speeds... ffs
Im sorry if I hurt someone now...
Hi
is this normal with an Intel I7 970 (hexacores),
the CPU temperature is higher than those of cores? (with Everest beta 5.50.2253)
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/1016/capturenee.png
thanks ;)
:yepp: its normalQuote:
Originally Posted by tistou77
ok, with the i7 920, was reversed (if I remember) :D
they added the extreme just for kicks lolQuote:
Originally Posted by PlatoonSgtElias
i see most in here just happy with 4.0-4.2 :rofl:
my board is in the box where it belongs
i really wanna see some people who are running the board 220blk withought slow mode on air or water
4500 for blooms is not a good result?
my board can run 230 blck np
i'll post some screens when back home if u need proof
THIS IS A MOTHERBOARD thread, Rampage Extreme III not a CPU board where u brag how much u got from your cpu.Quote:
Originally Posted by playground
ANY board can do 215BCLK, ANY!
Well okey, except some udderly bad boards that can do only 205-210.
Most arent doing what you would consider good because the board combined with bloomfield for many=fail at anything over 215-220bclk without the use of slowmode. Higher bclk for most users I have seen requires slowmode to be enabled, which for a 24/7 rig and any 3D sucks. People still post about how great it is but everytime I read to catch up on whats going on in the thread I leave thinking "WTF am I missing, why are they still praising this pathetic board"? Im not knocking anyone that has 4500stable, thats a very good 24/7 oc by anyones standard but I would give more credit to the chip and the guy clocking it than to this board. That can be accomplished on many lower priced boards.Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatoonSgtElias
zpaf...some questions:Quote:
Originally Posted by zpaf
1. Is the fan noisy? Really dont want to spoil the PC by adding a noisy fan
2. Clean TIM...not an option. Simply dont have the time to do it...plus if I did do it I dont think I could help but get the EK mobo WB instead and build a dedicated WCing loop for it while I am at it. I dont want upgrade anything in the PC at the moment, just built it recently and need to spend time using rather than improving it right now.
3. Case is TJ07. Air flow is not great. I have a HDD enclosure pushing air through the front to back. Also have rear 92mm's and roof 120mm fans all pushing air. No direct air flow over the mobo though. Any advice on how to go about improving air flow?
I am thinking that if I can add the optional fan on without undoing the whole mobo then I'll give that a go and see how it sounds. If it reduces the temps then great. If the fan is noisy then I am thinking that an ugly but effective solution could be antec spot cool fans. If the optional fan is good but not good enough then adding the ugly spot fans will further reduce the temps while avoiding a complete re-build (something that only a mobo/cpu failure will make me do...touch wood...crosses fingers...prays to the hw gods for mercy...er...).
Any advice would greatly appreciated;)
have not used the optional fan myself but have read its rather loud. so if noise is an issue and you would like to bring temps down a bit i would instead undervolt a 120mm fan and point it directly in the direction of the ioh/ich heatsink.Quote:
Originally Posted by JenBell
but my advice is: if you dont have any problems, and i doubt you will have any, just leave it as it is! your temps are higher as normal but still within operating specs of intel, so what.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatoonSgtElias
Hate to break it to you man, but very few Bloomfield chips are stable above ~4.4GHz without subzero cooling. The motherboard has little to nothing to do with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatoonSgtElias
Where this board does shine is for CPU-Z, SuperPi, and WPrime as it can go past any other board with QPI Slow Mode enabled.
If anything, it sounds like you've come in here to show off your 5.1GHz overclock. I only run my W3520 at 4.2GHz... Beat my benching clocks and then you can brag. Until then, it would be wonderful if you'd stop demonstrating to everyone how easy it is to be an ass on the internet.
fgw...I had a feeling it would be. I like the idea of 120mm fan...something like a 1200-2000rpm 120mm fan (one or two) sounds good. Question is how I hold them in place? I dont have a heatsink I can hand it off of. Anyone with any ideas? Antec spot cool is looking increasing like something I might have to go with...which will mean I will need to install the fan controller I've been holding off installing as I'll end up spending ages sorting on niggling things that have been getting to me (few messy cables...more UV lighting...move around the LEDs to under mobo tray, re-cable all the fans from 7v to 12v at full RPM (at max the fans are really quite as well...should of thought of this before).Quote:
Originally Posted by fgw
what is on the 970 and 980X probes cores are bugged?
CPU temp is higher than those of cores, and the temperatures of the cores is lower than the ambient temperature or that of water (WC)
I Used bios 0011
thanks ;)
I picked up a second i7 930 from newegg. FPO/Batch #: 3012A752 (pack date 7/07/10). On my R3E it wouldn't do more than 3.82GHz at 191BCLK.Quote:
Originally Posted by bassplayer
My first i7 930 does 4.37GHz at 230BCLK on the R3E, but I run it at 4.2GHz with a 200BCLK for daily use to keep temps under control.
quoted for truth.Quote:
Originally Posted by bassplayer
Whats the BEST bios for this Board ? using a 980X
Im thinking my board cant go 216 and higher ! tried every volt up and down :/ is this possible ? anyone got this prob ? what should i do ? can i rma this !
have you tryed raising the pci-e frequency?Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBaran
yes up till 110 IOH up till 1.25.. no bsod just freez
Am linX stable 20 runns bclk 215 x 17.. i go 216 and wich ever volt i up or down, even loose timings on ram 9-9-9-24..
some 920 fun :) not maxed, need to use marvell ports next time pci-e @ 128
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1394377
some 920 fun :) not maxed, need to use marvell ports next time pci-e @ 128
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1394377
hmmm are you looking for more to bench for daily use ?
i was use 115mhz on my other asus mb when i had a 920 to get past i think it was 215 also
what the mem speed ?
No not daily use just find my max bclk :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom7184
ram @ 1600
for curiosity, with a 970
is what it is like to be 21*200, 23*182 and 25*168, with voltage (vcore), etc. ... (OC at 4.2GhZ)
if one requires more voltage than the other or if it has no impact
thank you ;)
PS: I ask because not enough time to test .....
More BCLK = More QPI and IOH voltage. Sometimes it can require more vCore also.Quote:
Originally Posted by tistou77
More BCLK = More Performance.
ok thanks ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
so for 4.2GHz, 21*200 will pore performance with others settings but more IOH, QPI, etc. ...
but 4.2GHz is better to have the multi to 21, 23 or 25?
I then tested with 21*200 1.30v and Vcore at 1.80v CPU-PLL, if I drop the CPU-PLL, it's not stable
I thought that the lower CPU-PLL helped the stability of the OC?
thanks ;)
Very nice Splave, great job :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
so what was that on ln2 ? have you tryed slowmode ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
Does anyone have an EK-NB ASUS HP installed in place of the removable part of the stock heatsink? I've been told it should fit but haven't seen anyone use it.
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/u...-HP-Acatel.jpg
I'm on my 6th RIIIE, had to RMA the first 5 boards due to defects. The 6th board at last seems to work, it POST ok and I went ahead and installed it and everything seems to be working ok however when I go into the BIOS setup to the power menu and then go down to the hardware monitor menu and then select TEMPERATURE MONITOR to see what my CPU, MB, IOH, and ICH temperatures are everything looks ok except the IOH temperature is greyed out and says N/A and in the EXTREME TWEAKER menu only the CPU and the ICH temperatures are given the IOH temperature is greyed out and says N/A. I did take the heat pipe assy off to install a EK-FB RE3 full board water block but I followed the instructions to the letter. Does anybody know what could be causing this and is there a fix, what setting in the BIOS do I need to change to get the IOH temperature to show in the BIOS. I am using BIOS ver 1005 in BIOS 1.
Your prompt relies will be appreciated.
I would like to know that myself, nice hardware.Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
it fitsQuote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
so does the cheaper swiftech one;)
Yes the fan is noisy and won't help with SB temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by JenBell
I'm throwing a full WB on mine when I get some time, in the meantime I've thrown a quiet 120mm fan blowing across the heat sinks and my temps are staying in the low 50's benching.
Cleaning and changing TIM will help somewhat however these passive sinks need airflow, as they get hotter than a firecracker without.
What Thermal Pads did you guys use on the Mosfets? I'll be placing an order at Performance-pcs soon, and would like to get some from there to place it on the Mosfets. Which one to get? :)
Good to hear as I have already ordered the EK one. The Swiftech one isn't availabe in Canada, and from what I've found it is only $3 anyways.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
Don't understand the question? If your talking the NB WB it doesn't contact the mosfets, just replaces the passive sink. The EK full coverage block come with pads. I have not yet installed mine but I'm assuming all the required pads are in that pretty looking box the wb comes in.Quote:
Originally Posted by corpses3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnmark
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/9930/mosfets.jpg
I'm not watercooling the motherboard. I just want to replace that pad, as it was misplaced from the factory and it's messy. I will be using the stock heatsink.
The mosfets require .5mm pads and the devicces(?) just left and down a bit require 1.5mm pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by corpses3
Should I get 1mm and 2mm just to make sure it has very good contact?. I mean more pressure can't be bad right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnmark
It's always best to get the correct size. Thicker will have more contact pressure causing the pad to spread out possibly interfering with other components air cooling path. It can also result in uneven compression of all the pads depending on where hold down screws are, and possibly a little too much stress on the components.Quote:
Originally Posted by corpses3
Having said that I believe I recall someone here saying the 1.5mm pads were a tad too thin for the application.
If it where me I'd use the .5's on mosfets and 2mm on the other devices (vrms?), and 1.5mm on the south bridge components.
John
Ive got it installed. Its a nice little block and it made a difference of about 10-15C to the IOH and 5-10C for the ICH, for me. I didnt take off the Motherboard heatsinks and clean them though, I just put this EK block straight on. I am replacing it with an EK full cover block this week though. Just waiting for it to arrive. Im also doing a few other upgrades while Im at it. Im doing this this because the IOH still gets up to 70C when Overclocking. This is OK but I plan to push my system a lot further. Ive reached 4.5 so far with my 980X. I live in a very hot climate, ambient temp is constantly over 30C. I run my system 24/7 for gaming, encoding, benching, downloading, business, so it gets pushed pretty hard. Im changing the motherboard waterblock over to the GPU loop because it has a quad radiator mounted on the outside of the case where the CPU loop has a triple radiator mounted on the inside of the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
To bad to be honest. The WORST tim I have ever seen by far. I looks like the candle wax they wouldnt use in the crappiest candles in history. Also turns to stone after a few uses.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benton
Wow 128MHz PCI-E?Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
I find the USB 3.0 controller starts to disappear at around 110. I've had it up to 115 but did not want to push it higher. I have an ARC1680ix-24 SAS raid card which (probably) won't like that. At 115MHz the IOPS increase is very nice though.
Oh and when is Asus going to fix the iphone app for ROG connect? :mad:
Ordered this in 1mm and 0.5mm. We'll see how it goes.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...ty_60_WmK.html
Dazmode has a store here in Canada here and has a great selection of thermal pad and tape.
http://www.dazmode.com/store/index.p...&cPath=162_120
His store is actually becoming quite good for an all-in-one LC store. I even get Christmas cards :p:
+1 for us Canadians, excellent store, nice owner, EXCELLENT personal service.Quote:
Originally Posted by turtletrax
And they have 1 and 1.5mm pads.
I try to OC my 970 to 4.2GHz and 2000 memory
my settings:
Vcore: 1.30v
cpu-PLL: 1.81v
vQPI: 1.33v
vIOH: 1.17v
vDIMM: 1.64v
it's ok for a Hyper32M with memory 2000 and uncor to 3800 (CPU 21*200)
it's ok for a LinX with 21*200 and memory to 1600
it's ok for a Linx (and OCCT) with 15*200 and memory to 2000
but it is not stable with OCCT or LinX 21*200 and memory to 2000
What I need to increase voltage?
thank you ;)
PS: if I drop the CPU-PLL, it is not stable (I thought it helped)
My R3E has a strange problem.
When I go to shut it down, windows goes through the normal shutdown, then the screen goes blank and all my fans spin up to 100%. It then hangs like that indefinitely. Hitting the Power button and holding it does not force a shutdown. Hitting reset does not reset my machine... The only way to shut it off or restart it is using the switch on my PSU.
After making a BIOS change, I also sometimes experience this problem where I hit F10, it saves, the screen goes blank, and all my fans spin up to 100%. Once again the Power button, and reset buttons do nothing, and my only recourse is to use the switch on my PSU.
The board starts up normally every time after shutting off the power at the switch.
The POST string shown on the RC Poster tool does not change in any case. It's either 'successfull boot' or 'bios setup menu'
Set uncore 2x memory speed. For Mem 2000 uncore 4000. Is it even pospossible to set it lower than 2 times mem?Quote:
Originally Posted by tistou77
And I would say rise vQPI.
vQPI needs to be increased. Try about 1.4v. vCore should also be increased. Probably around 1.35.Quote:
Originally Posted by tistou77
I may have a similar issue here :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
I recently changed my ram to Dom GTs CL7,
Running a o/c @ 4.1 to start with,
ratio 21
bclk 195
Dram 1563 ( 1600 kit)
uclk 3127
qpi link 7038 mt/s
50% llc
cpu voltage 1.39
pll auto
qpi / dram auto
dram v 1.65625
ioh auto 1.64
ioh pcie auto 1.508
ich auto 1.11
the issue is random blue screen on re-start / shut down when windows closes
seems to be prime / game stable otherwise
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/v...blusscreen.png
any ideas folks
:rolleyes:
Mine never bluescreens. It's just an issue with shutting down properly, and saving bios settings then restarting properly...Quote:
Originally Posted by fmsam
Other than this weird thing... My hardware runs great.
yes with the 32nm CPU, the uncor is at least x1.5Quote:
Originally Posted by playground
Indeed, I increased the vQPI to 1.34v and it's OK :DQuote:
Originally Posted by zoson
it's OK for the CPU-PLL to 1.81v? if I drop it is not stable :confused:
thanks ;)
Ive got a EK full cover block arriving tomorrow. How would you recommend I remove the stock tim. Its not going to be fun by the sounds of it. Ive got some ArctiClean, it usually does a good job at removing all kinds of thermal material from computers.Quote:
Originally Posted by turtletrax
It is extremely difficult. I always use Isopropyl Alcohol to remove TIM. However, whatever they put on there has to be scraped off with something hard. If you have something strong, thin, and plastic, that's your best bet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benton
Yup.... :yepp: ...just soak the tim with the cleaner and let it sit for a couple minutes..then it wipes off no probs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benton
Thats good to know. I used iso alcohol and it wouldnt budge it. I had never seen TIM that hard to this point. I had to use an old bank card to scrape it off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Expat GriZ
I used a razor blade to get most of the TIM off and then just artic cleaner to get the rest. You can also heating it up with a hair drier and that should loosen it up quite a bit.
z...try setting the power off mode to S3. I set it to S3.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
Hi Jen,Quote:
Originally Posted by JenBell
Thanks for the suggestion. I went to bios and looked for a 'power off mode' and could not find one.
Under Power, I did find 'suspend type' which can be S1, S3, or Auto. It was set to Auto, so I set it to S3 and tried shutting down...
No dice, It still did the same thing. Is there another setting I've missed?
Thanks!
z..sus type was the setting I was talking about. I think u need to get into the windows and have a look device manager for a start. For BIOS settings, I usually disable a lot of things that have given me issues before. For example, on-board audo, bluetooth, firewire. I'd start working ur way through the hardware and see what u can turn off and see if that makes a difference. I know its not useful info but only thing I can think of...anyone else got better advice?
I don't think it has anything to do with windows itself. Windows is shut down fully and it's like when the motherboard goes to power off, it instead just leaves all the power on at max.Quote:
Originally Posted by JenBell
Not to mention it does it when I change a BIOS setting and hit F10 to save/quit.
It doesn't affect stability or performance any... It's just annoying.
But yeah, anyone got any other advice?
Thanks!
I know this is a little offtopic, but how do you remove the ROG circle on the heatsink? I have the full eK chipset block along with a CPU block and I can't seem to remove the damn circle ROG light... Any ideas?
They use the very thin two sided 3M style tape on the ROG light. Mine came off fairly easily on both of the boards I have had.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dchipset
If yours is being a PITA you could try to stick it in the freezer to see if the tape will become more brittle and let lose. If that doesnt work looks like you will just have to eats your spinach. :ROTF:
lol! Thanks! I'll try the freezer trick. :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by turtletrax
I'll be doing my final tests on the board this weekend to determine the true cause behind bad 3D scores.
Here's the game plan:
You'll see the following results from both my W3520 and my i7 950 all set from the BIOS. I will run ambient with both and subzero with the 950 (possibly the Xeon also). I'll be testing 3DMark '06 and 3DMark Vantage.
200x20=4000, QPI=3600
210x19=3990, QPI=3780
220x18=3960, QPI=3960
230x17=3910, QPI=4140 (if I can boot at 230 ambient)
Assuming my 950 isn't a dud, I'll also be running the tests at these frequencies with it:
220x23=5060, QPI=3960
223x23=5129, QPI=4014
My prediction: Anything with a QPI over 4000 will have a terrible GPU score. It happened with my W3520 frozen last time, though Asus claims temperatures are my issue...
If this does prove to be true, I'll be RMA'ing my board or trading it to someone who wants some epic 2D scores.
Happy to see someone following through ! Hopefully you get good results. i
Ive ordered a full mother waterblock and hate to RMA the board, but will do if its not doing what it should do !
I don't see any reason for the majority of people to RMA the board because the fact is, it does what it's supposed to do. However, if this problem is widespread (in that it affects most RIIIE boards), I will not buy another Asus product. That would mean that buying the top of the line in no way guarantees or even gives you a decent chance at getting a good board as there is no way any sort of binning has occurred.
In fact, it seems that these boards have a particularly bad IOH. I have never heard of this issue before the RIIIE. It's not present on my Gigabyte board at all, and that was 2 levels below the top when it came out (UD5 and Extreme above it).
The reason I say most users won't need to return it is that maybe 10% of the people that buy this board will ever push over 220 BCLK.
ran 225x20 seems 3d works :up:
Already replied to you in PM bassplayer, ever since I popped in the980X I can run 235 rock steady here on water. Only test I did was 3D06, tis now with the same CPU that bugged out at 228 before... sigh... Error bits is the explenation.
Will test some more after GOOC... might ask for a UD7/9 sample to test the same stuff...
Like I told you lads before, there's no binning on the IOH chips... one REX III locked at 215 and one UD9 at 220 here...
Some 235Bclock screenies :
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3...ywprime.th.jpg
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/9...5okay05.th.jpg
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/388...235okay.th.jpg
Hmmm... seems like I need to wait for my GB board to get back then RMA this thing.
I am glad I still have my UD7:ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by bassplayer
I wonder if anyone wants to trade a 4-way for a RIIIE? This can get higher 2D scores, the 4-way can get higher 3D scores. Seems like a good trade for a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by l0ud_sil3nc3
EDIT: Working on trading my RIIIE for a UD7 for a bit.
Hi Mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by fmsam
In my experience BSOD 3b has been a result of the RAM timings being too fast.
Good luck.
in the bios if you enable the Extreme OV, it appears more options
QPI Voltage OCP
OCP Voltage IOH
DRAM Voltage OCP
QPI PWM Frequency
IOH PWM Frequency
DRAM PWM Frequency
is that with OC h24 is better to enable this option or not?
thank you ;)
cheers 4 the replyQuote:
Originally Posted by Phatonian71
the issue seems ok right now I completly re did my o/c settings
still testing
:)
I got lucky with the tim. I only had one tiny patch on the IOH and thats it. I just scraped it off with a piece of plastic, took me 10sec. I really dislike the EK standoffs, they use them for everything. It makes it so much more difficult lining them up and getting them to stay there while you put the block in place. I which they would just machine them as part of the block itself. They really like their standoffs. My temps are an average of 25C lower now.The block looks great too. I will take some photos and post them soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by turtletrax
I dont mind the stand-offs as they can be made to fit perfectly if you have the time to sand them down if needed. If they are built onto the block and they are wrong = buggered.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benton
I find using a tiny (and I mean tiny) blob of AS5 gets the stand-offs to stay perfectly in pace. You really need to screw up before they are in the wrong spot.
I can agree w/ this. Can get rather annoying.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benton
my temps on the stock tim are like high 30's low 40's
i heard of ppl with it was in 90's on first boot, thats crazy but seen most are hotter then mine here :D
I have my R3E running fine at 222 BCLK without slowmode enabled. :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Nub
Is this with Gulftown? If so, that's two reports of Gulftown not having this issue.
Doesn't help me though :(
What I need is for my Gigabyte board to come back from RMA so I can verify again that it is not the processor.
I've had this issue with all 4 chips I've tested with on the RIIIE (920, W3520, two 950's).
I have a ten minute video of me trying to boot at 224 BCLK. It took around 3 minutes to boot. I switched the BCLK down to 220 and it took the usual ~30 seconds. Once it boots I try to run Vantage. It's kinda funny to see that at ~1-20 fps.
I'll upload it when I publish my stuff this weekend.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bassplayer
my board had no problems with 980x @ 220 blk lol
with any of my 920s i cant go over 114 lol
my IOH sucks lol
i guess most of em do lol
today i got Beta Bios 1102 for Rampage 3 Extreme
The bios is dated on 23.09.2010
The Bios fixes following
1.Patch CPU temperature may display 0 degree issue
2.Updated CPU micro code(s) for Gulftown i7-980X B-1 CPU
i will flash the bios tonight and report back
regards
Good, we are waiting for your first impression. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire4Wire
As soon as you can share, we are all anxious to test it, thanks. :)
i sold my 920 like 2 weeks before i got this R3E, but i could only get it to run 225X21 was the highest for 3D then i needed to use slowmode, i might try the other MB its a P6X58D Premium i never tryed to see the max bclk on the 980 on itQuote:
Originally Posted by bassplayer
how high do you go on your pci-e mhz ?
What's the highest BCLK achieved without SM enabled?
Mine has started doing something similar. I hit shut down it shuts down windows. Screen goes blank, then it just sits there for eternity. Although I can still hit the reset button to get it to reboot.Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
First Asus board I've bought in 4 years, already had to RMA it once. Not looking forward to RMA'ing a month old board again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire4Wire
Any links to new bios!:shrug:
PCI-E ranges from 100 to 116 before my GPU turns off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom7184
For 2D it's up to 137 with my PCI card :eek:
i flashed bios 1102
the bootblock is grown from 43 to 45
after flash to 1102 my gulftown stuck at 3333mhz
after cleacmos all is fine
http://www.abload.de/img/zwischenablage010l9j.jpg
test now (NO oc)
What is it? I didn't understandQuote:
Originally Posted by Fire4Wire
thanks ;)
BBB=Bios Boot Block
Hi Everyone,
I just got the board and i7 950, just wonder do I have to use 2x8 pin EATX12V for the board? What if I just use 1? Any stable problem with that? Many thanks for your help :)
You only have to use one. I have this board with a i7-950 running on a Corsair TX 750w. Currently running the CPU at 3.8GHz (166 bclk) with all stock voltages and temps never exceeding 55c on everyday use stuff. Im positive I could hit 4GHz with a small increase to voltage.
Where can I download this BIOS? Please?:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire4Wire