hi all!
here's my settings with this board!
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/8731/ev9745.jpg
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hi all!
here's my settings with this board!
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/8731/ev9745.jpg
new build q9550 w/ DFI X48 LT T2R , gtx260 videocard, Ballistix 800mhz, corsair tx650 ps.
on startup, led's on, fans spin, but system will auto shutdown at post code 26.
any ideas???
I had the exact same thing happen with my build recently. I ended up having to unplug my video card (major pain due to water loop), unplugged the psu, and removed the battery. I left it like this for about twenty minutes and replace it all back and it worked like a charm. Hope this helps!
POST code 26 mean video card initialing problems.
tx for the replies -- will try suggestions. :)
i have posted this before the backup came up, i will write it again. :(
my goal is to make mobo stable at 530x8 (or 8,5 if that's possible! :D ). I own an 8400 and a 2x2 kit, temgroup Xtreem, max memtest on this mobo 550 :woot: .
i managed to boot at these settings:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...530everest.jpg
used some settings from there -> http://www.outofspecs.gr/forum/showt...?t=2252&page=2Code:CPU Feature
- Thermal Management Control: Disabled
- PPM(EIST) Mode: Disabled
- Limit CPUID MaxVal: Disabled
- CIE Function: Disabled
- Virtualization Technology: Disabled
- Core Multi-Processing: Enabled
Exist Setup Shutdown: Mode 2
O.C. Fail retry Counter: 1
O.C. Fail CMOS Reload: Disabled
CPU Clock Ratio: 8x
CPU N/2 Ratio: Disabled
Target CPU Clock: 4240Mhz
CPU Clock: 530
Boot Up Clock: AUTO
CPU Clock Amplitude: 800mv
CPU Clock0 Skew: 200ps
CPU Clock1 Skew: 0ps
DRAM Speed: 333/667
- Target DRAM Speed: DDR2-667
PCIE Clock: 100mhz
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum: Disabled
Voltage Settings
CPU VID Special Add: +325mv
DRAM Voltage Control: 2.30v
SB Core/CPU PLL Voltage: 1.51
NB Core Voltage: 1.55
CPU VTT Voltage: 1.250
Vcore Droop Control: Enabled
Clockgen Voltage Control: 3.45v
GTL+ Buffers Strength: Strong
Host Slew Rate: strong
x MCH RON Offset Value:00
x MCH RTT Offset Value:00
x MCH Slew Rate Offset Value:00
x MCH VREF 1 Value:23
x MCH VREF 2 Value:23
x MCH VREF 3 Value:A3
x CPU GTL 0/2 REF Volt: 0.620X
x CPU GTL 1/3 REF Volt: 0.620X
x North Bridge GTL REF Volt: 0.67X
DRAM Timing
- Enhance Data transmitting: AUTO
- Enhance Addressing: AUTO
- T2 Dispatch: Disabled
Clock Setting Fine Delay
- DRAM CLK Driving Strength: Level 5
- DRAM DATA Driving Strength: Level 8
- Ch1 DLL Default Skew Model: Model 3
- Ch2 DLL Default Skew Model: Model 3
Fine Delay Step Degree: 5ps to 80ps
Ch1 Clock Crossing Setting: AUTO
- DIMM 1 Clock fine delay: Current 2024ps
- DIMM 2 Clock fine delay: Curren 1174ps
- DIMM 2 Control fine delay: Current 1112ps
- DIMM 1 Control fine delay: Current 1112ps
- Ch 1 Command fine delay: Current 74ps
Ch2 Clock Crossing Setting: AUTO
- DIMM 3 Clock fine delay: Current 1900ps
- DIMM 4 Clock fine delay: Current 937ps
- DIMM 4 Control fine delay: Current 886ps
- DIMM 3 Control fine delay: Current 224ps
- Ch 2 Command fine delay: Current 280ps
Ch1Ch2 CommonClock Setting: AUTO
Ch1 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 Command to CS Delay: Auto
Ch2 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 Command to CS Delay: Auto
Common CMD to CS Timing: 1N/2N/AUTO (command rate)
CAS Latency Time (tCL): 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD): 5
RAS# Precharge (tRP): 5
Precharge Delay (tRAS): 15
All Precharge to Act: AUTO
REF to ACT Delay (tRFC): AUTO
Performance LVL (Read Delay) (tRD): AUTO
Read delay phase adjust: Enter
Ch1 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 1 Phase 0 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 1 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 2 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 3 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 4 Pull-In: AUTO
Ch2 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 2 Phase 0 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 1 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 2 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 3 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 4 Pull-In: Auto
MCH ODT Latency: AUTO
Write to PRE Delay (tWR): AUTO
Rank Write to Read (tWTR): AUTO
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD): AUTO
Read to Write Delay (tRDWR): AUTO
Ranks Write to Write (tWRWR): AUTO
Ranks Read to Read (tRDRD): AUTO
Ranks Write to Read (tWRRD): AUTO
Read CAS# Precharge (tRTP): AUTO
ALL PRE to Refresh: AUTO
i managed to boot at my desired settings but it isn't stable.
also, i don't know how do we set the MCH VREFs and the driving strength. if there is a guide or something it would be appreciated. ;)
hey guys, good to see the forums up and running after the downtime. (Im a mod over at TPU, where the refugees hid out and created a hell of a mess in tent city)
Anyway i just got this mobo and i'm trying to sort out a dilemma.
My setup is currently just like these
http://www.exoid.com/wp-content/uplo...3/img_1141.JPG
http://www.exoid.com/wp-content/uplo...3/img_1142.JPG
Unlike that guy with his case, mine has the PSU up there and its causing me some temp issues. I need to find a northbridge cooler replacement thats going to fit, and allow me to rotate the CPU cooler so that its blowing out the back of the case again.
The two main NB coolers i think MIGHT do the job are the Thermalright HR-05 IFX, and the Xigmatek Porter N881 HDT.
I'm working my way through this thread but theres a hell of a lot of thread to read through, so if anyones found a way to get a TRUE120 to fit rotated the other way, please let me know!
Edit: i found THIS picture, but the angle makes it hard to tell if the top PCI-E slot is still usable.
edit 2: just a few pages back was this post which gives me hope. i will try PMing that user to get a pic of his setup
mussels you can install the true any way you want
i had to shve my nb heatsink as it was touchin the true
before you replace the stock nb cooling try a 120mm fan;)
i have the ifx it beats the stock+120mm fan by 2c
i even put a xigmantek 1283 on nb lol but not much temp difference:rofl:
if you was to buy 1 i think the porter is a good choice
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=174177&page=3
its a much better idea to get a new case IMO, what do u have now
I originally did it the other way around.
I gently massaged the interfering heat pipe on the TRUE about 1-2mm in. It makes no difference to the TRUE and it just clears the OE heatsink. Only one heat pipe doesnt clear when it's mounted facing IO panel. All you need is a small shifter or spanner or similar, and gently tap the pipe around the area that hits and you'll massage it clear.
http://hosting02.imagecross.com/imag...51DSCF0066.JPG
http://hosting02.imagecross.com/imag...28DSCF0064.JPG
Heres a pic with Thermalright HR-05 SLI/IFX.
Driving strength is set for the ICs. 6/8 usually works by default. To adjust you either increase clk drive/decrease dq drive or decrease clk drive/increase dq drive, but you need to change DLL models too when doing this.
On my DDR2 G.Skill 1100mhz 2x2gb sticks I've found the best combo for me is, in the format CK Drv/DQ Drv/Dll 1/Dll 2
3/8/5/5 or 4/7/6/6.
Drive strength is the amplitude the clock out and data out are driven at within the DDR delay locked loop relevant to clock in, and out for ddr mux.
MCH Vref are set with respect to the difference default.
Vref1=00h, Vref2=00h, Vref3=80h.
The represent voltage reference points at voltage crossing. You adjust them to the same ratio they are set. ie, Vref1=05h, Vref2=05h, Vref3=85h.
Unless you understand what they do stick to this. :) Also you can benefit from adjusting MCH slew rate offset, and MCH ROn/Rtt.
Ie.
MCH Rtt = 06h, MCH ROn = 03h, MCH Slew rate = 0Ah, MCH Vref1 = 18h, MCH Vref2 = 18h, MCH Vref3 = 98h
I'm pretty certain that Rtt = 1/2 ROn when setting it, since Rtt is usually 2 * ROn impedance. ie Rtt = 120 ohms, Ron = 60 ohms.
yeah i dont see why not. I don't have a need for it so I use a 80x25mm fan instead there.
i'm pretty sure it doesn't interfere with the slot, been a while since I had my PC apart though.
Hi, im about to order myself a DFI X48 LT T2R motherboard, and am wondering what size fan fits into the NorthBridge Heatsink (AKA The Heat Minator)??? is it an 80mm fan?
also how hot does it get when overclocking? im fitting in my q6600 and planning to overclock it as far as i can (with a GTZ waterblock) should i invest in a NB waterblock??
many thanks!
yah water is a mush for the x38/48, and i if u get the mcw30 its the lest restrictive and keeps the NB +2-3c of the water
if u get an antec 300 it would fix all of your problems and they cost like $60 so thats not much more than the NB cooler and some fans
hmm, well im looking for about 3.2ghtz from my q6600, im currently on 3.2 on my Abit ip35 pro XE board...which has given up the ghost now
im just putting in a new mobo so ill still be liquidcooling my q6600 and will be adding in a NB waterblock....so would you still suggest me not getting the X48 LT???
get whatever is cheaper with the x48 or p45
dont get me wrong the x48 is a good board
but its not as fast as the p35 or p45
just get whats cheaper
only reason i'm goin back to x38 soon is that i bought another 4870 to go crossfire
or my x38 be in a box for another year
i'm still itchin like crazy to buy the ut-p45:rofl:
why is it to load, it has the same sound dampening and more fans, more fans mean that u can undervolt and get the same flow for less noise and it allows the top to be used for a fan and the bottom for a psu so it will be cleaner.
its the same type of case so im just giving a suggestion since its about the same price
more open areas for noise to escape out of. more holes in the case, the more noise... and the 300 has an extra side fan intake, the top fan hole, and the entire front of the case as an open mesh... its far, far inferior in terms of noise.
all i wanted to know was about the NB coolders and i got my answers. i'll be grabbing the xigmatek NB cooler most likely, as its cheaper.
Thanks for the info mikeyakame!
i see that in your working combos the sum of CK Drv and DQ Drv is the same (3+8=11, 4+7=11). do i have to try only numbers that make 11 or just try everything?
Dll 1 and Dll 2 have to be the same?
how do i test if my selection (eg 5/8/5/5) is the best?
I got it! whatever you add to Vref1 you add it and to the others. Also the numbers are in hexadecimal format.
Are there any settings that "usually work"? I was told to use 23-23-A3.
I am not expert at math but i think that something is wrong here ^ :p:
Do i have to change Rtt/ROn in order to be stable at 530?
DLL models follow an order, ie 1 > 2 > 3 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 7.
Micron ICs will generally use DLL1-4. Powerchip ICs seem to like DLL5-7. Samsung ICs like DLL4-6. I dont know about others though.
DLL0 is generic and default, it works with all memory ics usually, but don't expect the fine delays to be anywhere near optimal.
DLL1 has strongest clock fine delay values and relatively weak control/command fine delay.
DLL2 has strong clock fine delay and moderately weak control/command fine delay.
DLL3 has strong clock fine delay and moderate control/command fine delay.
DLL4 has moderately strong clock fine delay and moderately strong control/command fine delay.
DLL5 has moderately clock fine delay and moderately strong control/command fine delay.
DLL6 has weak clock fine delay and moderate control/command fine delay.
DLL7 has weakest clock fine delay values and moderately weak control/command fine delay.
I use 3/8/5/5 because, DLL5 has moderate clock fine delay, so clock drive strength of 3 suits it with my ICs. DQ Drive Strength of 8, because DLL5 has moderately strong control/command fine delay values, so to use higher fine delay PS values, the DQ drive strength needs to be at 8 so weak clock and strong data balance the system.
Weak clock/strong data gives best results with tight performance levels, and aggressive cross clocking. This set up from my testing, works the opposite as PL loosens up. Ie PL7 @ 425fsb is stable, PL8 @ 425FSB gives occasional errors. Moderate clock/Moderately strong data gives best results when using moderate Performance Levels. Ie PL8-9 with aggressive cross clocking with clk drive strength = 4, dq drive strength = 7, dll1/2 = 6, is stable, but PL7 is too tight and throws errors.
That's what I've figured out from testing, it might not be spot on but they seem to reflect the DLL models delay values.
Well there is no exact method for testing what is best, the way i figured mine out was pretty simple actually.
Find a memory frequency that will post but throws errors in Memtest86+, ie sticks are stable to 1180mhz, so try 1190 or 1200mhz. Just don't run OS ;)
Now all you do is go through combinations of drive strengths/dll models, and find the ones that give you the least reported errors. I use test #5 for this (block move), it gives best results.
While doing this make notes for each change, and error count, and repeat. By the end of it you'll have lots of data to go through, and you'll find that when you use the dll/drive strengths that gave you least errors, they will be the best for your memory at most frequencies. If you see Control Fine Delay or Command Fine Delay = 0ps or < 50ps, then your DLL model isn't suited.
MCH Vrefs sort of scale with fsb, but at the same time they won't follow a pattern. Different frequencies respond and react differently. Oscillation due to drive amplitude causes this.
The easiest way to set up MCH Vrefs, is to start from something like 440mhz fsb, and work your way up to your target FSB. This way you'll be able to make small ongoing adjustments and you'll find it much easier to see what works better and what doesn't.
MCH ROn (Resistance On) / Rtt (Termination Resistance) only need adjusting if the clock gen can't keep up or is causing erratic clock jitter/skewing.
For a dual core you may not need to worry about these nearly as much as a quad core, but then again the clock generator on the UT/LT is weak and inconsistent, at least with quad cores. Mine needs MCH Vref and Slew Rate adjustment at only 420mhz FSB.
At 425mhz fsb for example I've found that with my board, the following works right.
MCH Vref1 = 05h
MCH Vref2 = 05h
MCH Vref3 = 85h
MCH Slew Rate = 01h
MCH Ron = 00h
MCH Rtt = 00h
CPU GTL1/2 = 101
CPU GTL0/3 = 87
MCH GTL = 81
Vtt = 1.175v
Vck_gen = 3.60v
The method I use for checking those adjustments is with Linpack. It takes patience, but it's accurate.
I run 2 tests, 10 passes for #1, 6 passes for #2.
This is what my linpack config file looks like, I just name it lp64.in and call it with linpack-xeon64.exe in a batch file.
Basically what linpack tells you is the time for each test to complete, and the cpu workload for it, as you change things like GTLs, MCH Vrefs, DRAM DLL Clock / Control Skews, etc you'll see the "GFlops" and "time" change.Code:Intel(R) LINPACK 10.1 Beta2
User Specified Datafile
2 # number of tests
8000 16500 # problem sizes ( 8 * problemsize^2 ) == memory usage
8008 16508 # leading dimensions ( same as problem size)
10 8 # times to run a test
4 4 # alignment values ( in kBytes )
That above is the result of near perfect values for gtls, vrefs, vtt, dll skews.Code:============= Timing linear equation system solver =================
Size LDA Align. Time(s) GFlops Residual Residual(norm)
8000 8008 4 7.126 47.9174 6.260895e-011 3.444035e-002
8000 8008 4 7.133 47.8702 6.260895e-011 3.444035e-002
8000 8008 4 7.152 47.7434 6.260895e-011 3.444035e-002
8000 8008 4 7.143 47.8034 6.260895e-011 3.444035e-002
8000 8008 4 7.146 47.7829 6.260895e-011 3.444035e-002
8000 8008 4 7.143 47.8005 6.260895e-011 3.444035e-002
8000 8008 4 7.141 47.8145 6.260895e-011 3.444035e-002
8000 8008 4 7.141 47.8156 6.260895e-011 3.444035e-002
8000 8008 4 7.144 47.7980 6.260895e-011 3.444035e-002
8000 8008 4 7.065 48.3316 6.260895e-011 3.444035e-002
16500 16508 4 59.525 50.3199 2.468622e-010 3.214697e-002
16500 16508 4 59.424 50.4055 2.468622e-010 3.214697e-002
16500 16508 4 59.618 50.2416 2.468622e-010 3.214697e-002
16500 16508 4 59.295 50.5150 2.468622e-010 3.214697e-002
16500 16508 4 59.906 50.0003 2.468622e-010 3.214697e-002
16500 16508 4 59.725 50.1515 2.468622e-010 3.214697e-002
16500 16508 4 59.552 50.2967 2.468622e-010 3.214697e-002
16500 16508 4 59.322 50.4925 2.468622e-010 3.214697e-002
Performance Summary (GFlops)
Size LDA Align. Average Maximal
8000 8008 4 47.8677 48.3316
16500 16508 4 50.3029 50.5150
i'm back on my x38
gonna do crossfire soon
i tested most of the boises yesterday:eek:
i strongly suggest the 602 beta bios
to be quite honest all the newer ones are crap compared to this one
all the others i could only do 470x9
i'm @ 510x9 now
unless you have a 4870x2 get newest
Hi, i got my x48 LT T2R board a few days ago, had alot of issues getting it to work, mostly due to the fact that i needed to update the bios as im running a 4870x2....and i had no spare graphics card to use in order to update it :( but its all good and working now!!
i just got one little query about it though the most ive been able to take my Q6600 to is 3.21 ghtz....(356 x9) im on a PA 120.3, DCC 18W and swiftech GTZ, ive prime95'd for 6 hours today and not exceeded 69.....my max core temps are: 69 67 62 63
my question is to why i can not take it any higher, when i go past my current multiplyer it just wont boot....i put the voltage up to 1.43 but it just wont boot......any reasons why???
EDIT: im aiming for something near FSB 400 so i can get my Q6600 to about 3.4!
any suggestions welcome!
many thanks
exe
exemay: set voltage to auto and use special add 110%+
here to ask the masters for some more advice :)
Just got myself a xeon E3120.
I can run 475 FSB stable (thats not the issue), however cranking the multi up my stability goes away. I would like some advice for voltages, GTL ref, and so on that i should use to help get some higher OC's out of this beast of a CPU.
clunk has a nice guide for gtl settings i suggest u read it
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/revie...ng-review.html
read anantechs review too
http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=3294&p=14
i think ijust discovered somethin lol
after putting my zigmantech 1283 on the nb my board would only do 8.8. :rofl:
played with it for a few hours n thought there was no hope dead board
then i lossened the screws a bit and :rofl: the damn thing booted:)
Can someone explain how I go about making adjustments to MCH ROn/Rtt. I only ask because I have noticed that my fsb/cpu clock has been all over the place. It has been like this awhile, but I never knew how to fix until seeing this mentioned in an earlier post.
"MCH ROn (Resistance On) / Rtt (Termination Resistance) only need adjusting if the clock gen can't keep up or is causing erratic clock jitter/skewing."
My mobo has been fairly stable with a FSB=500, this puts my x6800 @ 4 ghz and my ram a 1000 MHz but I would like to eliminate these odd changes to my FSB. Thanks in advance.
The method I use is changing them little by little and noting down what results i get.
Add 01h to each one at a time, it's the best way.
ie. Rtt = 01h, Ron = 00h -> Rtt = 00h, Ron = 01h -> Rtt = 01h, Ron = 01h -> Rtt = 02h, Ron = 01h -> Rtt = 01h, Ron = 02h -> Rtt = 02h, Ron = 02h...
And so on. It's something that will take many many bios changes to figure out :D
The only other helpful info I can give you is this.
MCH Ron (Resistance ON) determines how long the pins of the Receiver are held at Rtt or at the Pull Down Driver. Basically if you imagine your clock waveform, it determines the period where the clock wave is at constant voltage.
...______.............._
../.........\............/
_/...........\______/
That is a poorly drawn clock waveform, the straight section is set by Ron.
MCH Rtt (Resistance Termination) determines how fast the rising clock edge slew rate will be, and also how much ringback there is on both the rising clock edge and falling clock edge.
Higher Rtt can push more ringback on the falling clock edge while also using higher Ron can delay the falling clock edge so gives the ringback time to stabilize.
Thats all I can tell you really without an oscilloscope!
Hi folks... I'm back...
I realize this is sort of off topic but does anyone know if the LanParty series x38 and 48 boards will ever support these cpu's
E5300
E5400
Can't find it anywhere on the site and I don't wanna risk blowing 100.00++ on one and find out I'm up **** creek.........
Thanks
Specifically the E5400 for the LanParty X48 T2RSB Plus, cause this is way cheaper than the an E8400 or E8500....
Thanks
Don't worry, obviously those cpu's are too new.... I gotta new question though...
Can I get an E5200 to 4.0 GHZ on air and not have it blow up or do I need a huge air cooler like the Thermalright Ultra Extreme????
I read that it takes roughly 1.46-1.52 Vcore to get there stable so I was just wondering because when I tried 1.53 volts for my E2160 to be stable at 3.4 GHZ the machine heated up hotter than the gates of Hell...:cord:
It climbed to 85 degrees and then buggered off...
Also just since I'm here - in your opinion is 30 degrees Celcius at 1.39 volts GOOd for a Northbridge????? (currently @ 3.2 GHZ Stable)
Thanks for your valuable insight...:up::up::up::up::up:
You guys are the best.....
I downgraded my BIOS to 602 Beta as it was highly recommended, and fiddled with settings until I was able to get 500FSB 600MHz PL8 with Clock Crossing settings at Aggressive and this is all I got for bandwidth :rolleyes:
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/539...l8aggressi.png
By sabishii_hito
duh:p:
btw you can do pl7 with 1.63v on nb ;)
i been sayin all along its the best bios
i tested every other bios
dfi should scrap every bios n start with 602 beta
i just wished they support the x48 as much as the p35
i'd move along to ut p45 but would cost 300can$ with shipping n taxes
motherboardpro has it for 160us$ shipped but ups or fedex not an option for us canadians unless we wanna pay a 50$++ customs fee
I took out the CSX Diablo D9GKX and put in my newest Ballistix D9GMH 16FD3 kit and tweaked the settings, PL8 with pullins@EAEEE/EAAEE and Clock Crossing set to More Aggressive. Bandwidth is looking better but still not as good as others I've seen.
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/8...l8moreaggr.pnghttp://img42.imageshack.us/img42/861...l8moreaggr.png
Flashed my LT with UT bios, works like a charm. I'll do bit for bit compare between ADC24 for LT and CDC24 for UT see if they are the same.
Either way LT bios can be flashed on UT board, and vice versa with awdflash ms-dos tool from USB.
Yoh guys,
I am planing to buy a LANPARTY UT X48-T2R or a DFI P45-T2 RS plus.
Mikeyakame was so kind to recommand me the P45-T2 RS plus because I would like to oc my G.Skills F2 9600.
I heard that the DFI P45-T2 RS is having some serious problems with the Be Quiet PSU because of the 4-Phase Digital PWM.
As you see in my signature do I have a BQ Dark Power Pro 850W.
Would you say I should better buy a new psu for my purpose?
Is there a big difference in the perfomance between a UT X48 compared to a P45-T2 RS plus?
Thank you for your reply!
What is about the psu?
Do you think I can try it with the BQ Dark Power Pro7?
dfi boards are fussy about psu
i dont beleive in skimpin on a psu;)
you can ask praz @ http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/index.php
I don't have anywhere near as much experience as some of you, but now that I've tried it I will recommend the X48 T2RSB Plus.....
I haven't had one problem with it at all...
Always resets nicely..
Highly stable
And relatively cool compared to the Rampage Formula (my other one)
I 've only had it a month, but I haven't encountered any of the problems they seemed to be constantly :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:ing about on Newegg and other sites....
Very good:up::up::up::up::up::up::up:
now I just have to figure out how to set up a network....
the X48 T2RSB Plus is a better for higher fsb
they fixed what they messed up with on the ut lt x48
now i just wished they would fix the bios to clock my e8600 higher than 520fsb
i can do 550fsb stable with my e6850 lol
i just wished they reduced the ut p45 price in canada 250$ is way too much
i'd get a udp3 but odds are i'd get a lemon board than would die in a week:rofl:
do you mean ud3p the fancy high overclocker by Gigabyte Technologies????
I was curious about that one too.... could I get a higher stable overclock with my other E8600??? other than 4.5 at 1.40vcore????? Or is it more to do with the batch of the chip I was fortunate or unfortunate enough to get?????
I noticed at newegg here in Canada the LT x48 is the same or sometimes cheaper than the T2RSB Plus and the T2RS occasionally on their sales???
I was considering the LT X48 for a THIRD build.....would it be equivilant to the T2RSB I got or a step down :down::down::down: :in fsb overclockability?????
Just curious...
Thanks folks :up::up::up::up::up::up:
:rofl::rofl: @ gigabut fancy high overclocker
i'll just wait till its on sale again or we canadians dont get hamered on the price its 150us$ @ motherboardpro should be 190can$ max
to be quite honest x48 is a waste considering the ut p45 is faster and can do 8x8 crossfire if needed
:yepp::yepp::yepp:
but you are referring to the ud3p????? am I right???
Would you personally recommend it for a build or would DFI be better....?????
Thanks
i had too many gigabut boards die on me
i seen many ud3p boards in the forums die in weeks
i was thinkin of gettin one for fun but with my luck it woulda died in a week lol
i would rather pay the xtra $$ n get the ut p45 its so much faster than anything out there
if the ud3p didnt suk so much in memory bandwidth i woulda risked it lol n bought it localy so i could rma it every month:rofl:
guess i didn't read enough
I was under the impression that it was a good board....
sorry for the mix up....
thanks:cool::cool::cool::cool:
i so wished i got the ut p45 when ncix had em on sale @ 200$
the ud3p is good for alot considering its a great seller for the price its doin good with high fsb quads
i been abusin my dfi boards for over a year n they keep takin it
i was averagin 1 gigabut board rma every 5 weeks before i went dfi i even had a gigabut board just die @ stock after a few weeks lol
i just wanna break 13k in everest so i need the ut p45 to do it:D
i broke 12k with ut p35 i havent seen no ddr2 gigabut board break 12k they have tough time gettin to 11k:rofl::rofl:
i shoulda bought the black ops like zanzabar when newegg had em @ 175can$ in daily sale
Ok, so the time has come for me to strip out my LC stuff, re-do the loops and put some new piping in thre!
Up until now ive only been wcing my GPU and CPU, so i was wondering what the best NB and SB blocks are, and mosfet.....if there is one avaliable, but i cant see u can fit anything on there!!
i appreciate its probs not nescicary to lc the SB or mosfets, but i want to!! im addicted haha
many thanks
exe!
EDIT: im not using dual GPU's so size of the SB block isnt really a bother to me...also are there any FC blocks??
The LT X48 is only $139.99 at NewEgg.
blackops 262can$-30us$ mir:eek:
newegg usa has it @159-30mir 129us$ wtf
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...ONN-_-13186144
so are there any decent SB NB MOSFET waterblocks??? any 1 got pictures?
thx
which is the best bios for x48 dk t2rs (c2d 8400 2x2gb ram)?
has anyone tried the latest bios 2009-05-04?
Hey all, I just got my PC going with the UT X48-T2R which I had purchased about 4 months ago but in moving to a job and apartment, I never had the time to get my PC built. Finally I've done it and I want to definitely start to OC a bit. I have only done a little bit of OCing a long time ago on AMD's Athlon 64 X2s, and right now my X48-T2R is coupled with a QX9650 CPU.
However, after hearing about DFI's ABS (Auto Boost System) utility, I wanted to give that a try. I downloaded it from their website, but everytime I go to install it, it tells me I need to have .NET Framework 2.0 before running it. Also when I run the program, no information about my system even shows up and the ABS Profile I downloaded from DFI's site apparently doesn't match to what I have installed. I have .NET Framework 3.5 and the other versions have been installed in the past as well.
So is the version of ABS from their website broken or what? Has anybody successfully used the ABS utility?
Thanks!
The only thing that I've done with it is share BIOS settings with LV Coyote.
That worked but remember one thing.
When you trade a BIOS it not only takes on the other system's OC settings, it takes on ALL of the other system's BIOS settings.
And vice versa.
Gets interesting.
Well I'm using the 12/2008 BIOS, not sure if that's either 602 or 603 as DFI's website is not very clear nor does even the latest one show up at times (their site is poorly designed it seems, in both IE and Firefox).
I'm not at my PC at the moment and won't be back at my apartment until after this weekend, so I can't tell you specifics right now.
Also, I can't seem to get my DDR2-1066 RAM to actually run at 1066. CPU-Z and during boot the RAM is listed at DDR2-800. I've made sure the timing and voltage is correct and yet I can't run the RAM at DDR2-1066. I've got Crucial Ballistix Tracers; a pair of 1GBx2 so I have 4GB of RAM.
Could it be the BIOS in that regard?
Oh and if anybody cares, the DFI-specific links on the first page of the thread all link to the same site/page. DFI's website is completely crapped out and has been for a while it seems.
take a better look
i downloaded the 602 bios for a freind this week you need to use beta link;)
those sets are crap imho i bet they are 1 sided crucial crapola
set voltage to 2.04 in bios
i ran my board 1270+ with 4 stix;) the good double sided ballistix rated 2.2v
Ok i sold my mobo and want to buy a DFI. I can buy a 2nd hand LT x48-T2R for 100 euro or i can buy a new UT p45-T2RS for 127 euro. Now my question is what the better board for overclocking? I dont care about the extra lanes from the x48 chipset. Im leaning towards the p45 myself.
*edit
I can get a LT x48-T2R new for 100 euro, damn those DFI boards are dirt cheap lately. Anyway should i go for the UT p45 or LT x48?
How big is the difference in memory clocking between ut p45 and lt x48? as ill be running 4x1gb d9gmh
i havent tried the ut-p45 i was told its good @ 4x1
i have the dk and 4x1 is not verry good i wish i bought the ut
but if you have a quad dont bother with the x48;) even my dk slaps the x48 in quad clocking so the ut is better by 10%
i always said the x48 is a waste unless you need 16x16 crossfire
but you never need 16x16 crossfire as 8x8 crossfire is enough :)
thx for the info
I'm pretty sure the sticks are double-sided as I haven't recently got these sticks; I've had them for a long time (I bought them when they were still expensive almost 2 years ago, but stocked up as Newegg had them on sale). Not to mention all the sticks have two rows of LEDs, and IIRC, the single-sided ones didn't have that.
As for the BIOS, you mentioned a 603 BIOS before but I can't find it on their site. Anywhere else I can look? Trust me I've looked. :)
look in ut bios not lt bios;)
if you cant run that ram @ rated speeds time for rma they dyin
Heh, I've looked in the UT Bios. I'm not that much of a newb :p: ;)
I plan on running MemTest as soon as I get back to my apartment, so perhaps that will let me know what the issues are. Prior to that, I'll try changing my settings in the BIOS version that I am using to see what's working and/or not working.
If MemTest comes up with positive results, I'll try the 602 Beta BIOS.
I'm quoting myself just to keep some context. :p:
Anyways, so I upped the voltage to actually 2.05v, but the DRAM speed is still listed at DDR2 800 in the BIOS and in CPU-Z. I haven't done any MemTest or BIOS downgrading yet.
In CPU-Z my FSB:DRAM ratio is 5:6, with the DRAM Freqency being listed at 400MHz.
When I tried changing the DRAM Speed in the BIOS to 333/1066, the system doesn't POST and I get a CMOS Checksum error, specifically about my keyboard not being present (which makes no sense).
Am I correct in assuming that the BIOS version is the culprit here, and I should move down to the 602 Beta BIOS?
find n put on 602 or 603 beta bios or ....suffer:rofl:
Well I just updated to the 602 beta BIOS. Still can't change the DRAM Speed to 333/1066.
So I'm at 333/800 which is a DRAM Ratio of 5:6. To get 333/1066, the DRAM Ratio needs to be 5:8 (this is from me reading Clunk's DFI BIOS guide).
I assume I need to tinker with the timings or do I need to crank the voltage up to around 2.2v?
EDIT: I found what I exactly bought on Newegg.com and they don't carry it anymore and apparently Crucial doesn't make them anymore either.
So I guess I need to crank the voltage up to 2.2v then.
EDIT #2: I cranked up the voltage to 2.2v and I can't set the DRAM Speed option in the BIOS to 333/1066.
Any suggestions now? I'm getting a bit frustrated now. :confused: :shrug:
What is the best OC bios to use with the UT X48-T3RS??
start by testin each stick you might have a bad stick
set voltage to 2.14=2.1 real
400-450fsb use 333-800 divider
set vtt to 1.2 start gtls 120-110-100 and fidlle till your stable
you bought a dfi so you gotta learn it
if you want an easy overclock on that cpu you need a p45 board
you should be able to get 440fsb easy on the board
Pretty general question here guys as I'm away from my PC at the moment but I'm looking for any pointers to help me out:
I've been running Vista 32bit for a good while now, nice & stable @ 3.2GHz but a few days ago installed the 64bit version & my rig seems to be running slow as hell when it comes to running anything HDD intensive (defrag, file transfers, updates etc)
The only changes I've made besides the OS is to add another 2 sticks of RAM. Unfortunately due to no stock I've now got 2 different types of RAM:
2 x 1GB OCZ SLi PC2-8500 (original)
2 x 1GB Geil Black Dragon PC2-8500 (new)
I havent changed any BIOS settings & can run OOCT & ORTHOS stable for 24hrs in blend.
I'm wondering if the 2 different sets of RAM would cause any issues or am I missing some driver update since changing over to 64bit? I know I'm asking a very vague question here but I'd appreciate any kind of pointers.
Thanks in advance
Thanks for the quick reply!
So you think that the extra nudge on the volts should stop the long wait as I watch the HDD light?
Also, do you think there could be any issues running 2 different brands of RAM?
you cant run 4x1 withought the xtra volts on nb or memory it might run but not really stable
you should be puttin 1.5+ on nb especially with the quad
ram is ok as long as you got the right timings
and put the best sticks on b channel
channal A clocks better it dont need best stix
The price on this board is super cheap now: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813136046