http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/6046/r342135.jpg
bios 1003 best for me between 0901/0011/1003
Still testing..
advice is welcome !!
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http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/6046/r342135.jpg
bios 1003 best for me between 0901/0011/1003
Still testing..
advice is welcome !!
thats only 10 loop run plus used 2k memory - hard to call it stable.
Can anyone advise me...I have updated to BIOS 0011 beta on both BIOS chips but still cannot see some of the new options.
it's OC Station, not RC Bluetooth ;)
I see here, it's possible but I don't know how to connect the connector
thanks ;)Quote:
The other USB was taken by the ROG_Connect port, which can also be used as a standard USB port if wished. and yes, half of the bluetooth connector is really standard USB pin out. If you are never going to use RC Bluetooth feature, you can always pull it out, and use the side with 6 pins (the lower row) as the USB port. Pin out should be (from left to right) +5V,USB-,USB+,GND. The remaining two pins are for RC bluetooth, so it should not be covered at all.
question on the bios button in the corner I can't find any info on it, Hows it work? And does the PC have to be off to switch it?
Hello!
Do you think there will be any problem using my old S775 (intel q6600) Swiftech water block on my Rampage 3 Extreme motherboard?
There is some kind of metal on the back of the motherboard that is blocking, but i did manage to fasten the screws and it's up and running
Here are some pictures:
http://flickr.com/gp/runevenes/RX237m Right click on them and select lagre/orginal for higher resolution.
Thanks!
Edit:
It's a I930 i7 cpu.
Running Linx now, im still at stock speed, and in real temp they are crawling up to about 70-75C
Is this normal?
Think i must do somthing with that WB...
i think its normal
Uhm! I removed everything, out of the case with it, took off the WB and had a look...
Dont you think that Swiftech had put a plastic protetcing thing on the WB?
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4084/...03bd2c62_b.jpg This is before it was removed.
Btw, it have worked for months in my old setup, so i dunno how much it had so say, but it's removed now!
Temps are down to around 50c with linx running.
Looking better!
One of the main reason for the removal of everything was taht i forgot to install the bluetooth RC thingy!
Hi !
Tnx for your reply..
I aint stable yet..i keep erroring on 4k and this was the first run on 4.2 without errors, and i liked the gflops being all 59.3 :)
ill run test tonight on max problem size, but im gonna need help couse ive tried almost every volt up and down !
tnx !
It's a challenge and tedious but that's what makes it fun....
Try backing off from 4.2 down to where you can get stable with the max memory/problem size. Then increase gradually from there. Looking at your voltages it appears that your QPI might me low. Also, if your getting BSODs check what the errors are (e.g. 101, 124) because that will give you a clue. There is a great OC guide on the EVGA forum which tells what the causes are for the various errors you will see. I don't have the link handy but if I can find I will PM you. Enjoy!
You guys think I'll be ok running it at this and still get a long life out of the chip, I ran LinX for awhile seems pretty stable.
Nevermind....
Which one? Try Enabling Extreme OV and see if that shows whats missing. ;)
Oh... Sorry... I was sleepy. :)
Well, the guy said "Pin out should be (from left to right) +5V,USB-,USB+,GND", so it sorts it out. You can plug USB if you have... hmm... I don't know how to say it... recombinable cable, single wire - single plug. If you have standard 4+5 pins in one plug, you are out of luck. ;)
@Everyone: Please show UnCore speed (NB in CPU-Z, memory tab) or just state it, when asking for confirmation on adequate voltages.
I can run QPI @ 4000 (8000) with 1.2V VTT, with low UnCore, but for 4000 UnCore 1.475V is needed while QPI is at 3600 (7200).
Yes still testing lower vcore, im @ 1.32 now..
I test with 1.35 QPI and get 57 gflops.. when i lower to 1.225 i get 59 gflops.. is better or not ?
that is actually how i test stability.. more gflops hence more stable right ?
Please correct me if wrong..
TNX for advices
I need just 1.45V QPI volt as follow result.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1325548
I think you had better to check you BIOS setting for youe CPU safety.
I'm retarded I can't seem to find bios 1003. Where can I find it?
Hey guys , i assumed this would be the perfect place to ask my questions since you guys look like you know your things .
I want to build a new PC and i need advices , i choose Asus RE3 Since my Rampage Formula worked flawlessly so far .
Ill be using a I7 930 and a GTX 460 (01G-P3-1371-AR) , but for the rest i need advice ..
I was thinking using Noctua NH-D14 to cool the 930 but it look like it restraint a lots of Ram choices , so if anyone have any idea , it would be nice to hear them (Either to recommand me a good Ram that would fit with the D14) or another cpu cooler with good ram .
I'm also confused about which PSU i should buy , i know that in the end ill have a second 460(when money will permit it ) 2 HDD 1 DVD burner 1 blu-ray drivers +1 SSD and probably some fans so will 750 watts be enough ?(Which PSU would you recommand)
Another big one , the case , i want something with enough room in it , used to have an antec 900 and its pretty good but i'm looking for a change , something like Cooler Master HAF X / ATCS840 / HAF 932 (Looking for best Airflow/Money Ratio )
My budget for the CPU cooler/PSU/RAM/Case is about 800 CAN , ill be shopping on ncix.com so items need to be available there , ill do a pricematch if i find them cheaper somewhere else anyway .
Thanks again and i hope i'm not in the wrong section :(
(Ps sorry for my english :( , its my second language)
-A Future RE3 Owner :)
Edit : Does it worth it buying a small SDD and to install windows 7 on it then games/media on a HDD ?
well with the 2nd gtx460 in the future I would go with an 750/850w power supply.
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...acture=Corsair
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...X&promoid=1053
some present from Fire4Wire for you Guys
Bios 1003
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=RWS8DG6D
Thanks! :up: but we need something fresh. ;)
some present from Fire4Wire for you Guys
Bios 1004
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=U5X7COFX
Yeah, that's fresh. :up: EDIT: Well, maybe not so fresh, older then 0011, but a new toy to play with. :D
Now to see is it better or average. ;)
:up: thanks dude =) u is tha king :D
Hey, PytonOrm, did you manage to kill your 980X? ;)
And how about 1004 ? Any opinions :)
Yesterday, I tested some BIOS (0704/9124/1003/0011) under LN2.
I think "9124" is best BIOS under LN2.
It's very stable & good score than other BIOS.:)
(Unfortunately, My chip can not improved CBB & CB by "0704")
*3DMark06 - 40314
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/4...0640314.th.jpg
you are tested the 1004?
No :D still lives its freaking sick cpu :eek: now with bios 1004 i got this
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1377123
:D
What do you use use to check temps?
Are there still issue with the microcode? and 3rd party temp viewers?
Realtemp and Coretemp for example?
Think 0009-0010 or around there had a fix to read temps more accurate, using Coretemp and Everest atm myself. Tried Realtemp and its pretty much to same as coretemp give or take 1 Celcius. Not 100% sure they really read it spot on, but i guess its not far from reality when temps get high :p:
@donmarkoni
Thnx for reply on 1003 and message with bios :)
@Fire4Wire
Thanks alot but i get "The file you are trying to access is temporarily unavailable." on both files :confused: Will try again later :)
Edit: Nvm got it sorted just had to click a couple times on reload page :p:
Hello Guys,
PC Spec's below.
980x, CMT6GX3M3A2000C8 x2 = 12GB RAM, Rampage III Extreme, Sapphire 5970 4GB, Enermax Rev85+ 1250w, 8x Pioneer Bluray writer, 24x Liteon DVD writer, OS: Crucial C300 256GB, Tier 1 storage: 2x Samsung F1 500GB, Tier 2 storage: 2x 1Tb Samsung F3, KillerNIC 2000 Pro - all housed in a windowed black TJ07 with 2x 92mm revoltec's, 3x 120mm sharkoon's at 700rpm, front HDD intake at 1200RPM. WCed by Aquaduct 720XT with Cuplex Kryos HF (all compression fittings) filled with black UV feser.
Using BIOS 0011 I have only managed to reach stable settings below.
Need it take the system higher...any advice please?
Code:
Target CPU Frequency 3918.9MHz
Target DRAM Frequency 1704MHz
LN2 Mode []***
QPI Loadline Calibration []***
Sync Mode [EN]
AI Overclock Tuner [MAN]
OC From CPU level Up [Auto]
CPU Ratio Setting [23]
CPU Turbo Power Limit [DIS]
>CPU Configuration----------------------------
CPU Ratio Setting [23]
C1E Support [DIS]
Hardware Prefetcher [EN]
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetcher [EN]
Intel(R) Virtualiyation Tech [EN]
CPU TM Function [EN]
Execute Disable Bit [EN]
Intel(R) HT Technology [EN]
Active Processor Cores [ALL]
A20M []
Intel(R) SpeedStep(TM) Tech [DIS]
Intel(R) C-STATE Tech []
C State package limit setting [DIS]
----------------------------------------------
BCLK Frequency [170]
PCIE Frequency [100]
DRAM Frequency [DDR3-1704mhz]
UCLK Frequency [3238]
QPI Link Data Rate [Auto]
Memory Configuration Protect [DIS]
>DRAM Timing Control--------------------------
CAS# Latency [8]
RAS# to CAS# Delay [9]
RAS# PRE Time [8]
RAS# ACT Time [8]
RAS# to RAS# Delay [24]
REF Cycle Time []
WRITE Recovery Time []
READ to PRE Time []
FOUR ACT WIN Time []
Back-To-BackCAS# Delay []
Timing Mode [2N]
Round Trip Latency on CHA []
Round Trip Latency on CHB []
Round Trip Latency on CHC []
WRITE To READ Delay(DD) []
WRITE To READ Delay(DR) []
WRITE To READ Delay(SR) []
READ To WRITE Delay(DD) []
READ To WRITE Delay(DR) []
READ To WRITE Delay(SR) []
READ To READ Delay(DD) []
READ To READ Delay(DR) []
READ To READ Delay(SR) []
WRITE To WRITE Delay(DD) []
WRITE To WRITE Delay(DR) []
WRITE To WRITE Delay(SR) []
----------------------------------------------
CPU Differential Amplitude [Auto]
CPU Clock Skew [Auto]
IOH Clock Skew [Auto]
------------ Extreme Engine Digi+ ------------
Digi+ PWR Mode [T-balanced]
PWR Volt. Control [Auto]
Load-Line Calibration [Auto]
CPU Voltege OCP [EN]
CPU PWM Frequency [Auto]
Extreme OV [DIS]
Extreme OC [Auto]
CPU Voltage [1.25000]
CPU PLL Voltage [1.81525]
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage [1.35000]
DRAM Bus Voltage [1.64300]
>DRAM REF Voltages----------------------------
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA []
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA []
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB []
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB []
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC []
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHC []
----------------------------------------------
IOH Voltage [1.11300]
IOH PCIE Voltage [1.81050]
ICH Voltage [1.11300]
ICH PCIE Voltage [1.51050]
---------- Spread Spectrum Control -----------
CPU Spread Spectrum [DIS]
DRAM Spread Spectrum [DIS]
***on-board jumper dependant
kyle...the uncore is fine
er...cool...can u give me a mini lesson on what it should be please?
My mistake, I did not originally notice that you had a 980x, in that case, scratch that. You may want to try disabling Intel VT. How specifically are you crashing? During POST, stress testing, are you receiving a BSOD, or just hard locking? You may also wish to enable QPI LLC with the jumper on board (even 1.55v VTT did not accomplish stability, but this setting w/ 1.4v managed to.) , as that, coupled with upping PCIe freq + disabling VT got me from 4.2GHz - 4.6GHz stable with this board on an i7 930.
kyle...np. At the settings posted the PC is totally stable, I am happy with the stability with no issues. My problem is pushing the system further. I have go from 1.25vcore to 1.29v to get 4Ghz and even then its not 100% stable. Need some hints in how to OC this mobo more effectively. I need VT enabled.
Asus ROG connect just stopped working!
There is no bios settings for that?
Just the button on the back right?
Stopped on bluetooth too!
Changing the CPU PLL Voltage can help in lower your V-Core, dunno what the default Settings are for i7 980x but at my rig for example i lowered the CPU PLL from 1.80 to 1.40 and was able to lower my V-Core for 2 notches. So try lowering it a bit it depends. I read some times ago that a more clear Voltage is better than a high Voltage (1.40 vs 1.88 e.g for i7 920)
Ok stable now i think ..
Now raise bclk ?
GG..
Tnx everyone for advice !
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4470/215stabiel.jpg
Hi everybody.
i've been researching this thread for a little while now and have been trying to get my new system stable at 4.2Ghz. I have experimented with PLL (1.4 - 1.8) and CPU voltage (1.25 - 1.35) but have consistently run into blue screens when benchmarking in PC Mark's Gaming test.
My system specs are: i7 930 (stock fan), Kingston 2000 DDR3 Triple, Silverstone 1500w, 8800GT.
If anyone has any advice on how I could get it stable at 4.2Ghz I would greatly appreciate it! Here are my bios settings:
Code:BIOS 0878 BETA
Target CPU Frequency 4200MHz
Target DRAM Frequency 2005MHz
LN2 Mode Disabled***
QPI Loadline Calibration Disabled***
Sync Mode [Disabled]
AI Overclock Tuner [Manual]
OC From CPU level Up [Auto]
CPU Ratio Setting [Auto]
CPU Turbo Power Limit [Disabled]
>CPU Configuration----------------------------
CPU Ratio Setting [Auto]
C1E Support [Enabled]
Hardware Prefetcher [Enabled]
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetcher [Enabled]
Intel(R) Virtualiyation Tech [Enabled]
CPU TM Function [Enabled]
Execute Disable Bit [Enabled]
Intel(R) HT Technology [Disabled]
Active Processor Cores [All]
A20M [Disabled]
Intel(R) SpeedStep(TM) Tech [Enabled]
Intel(R) C-STATE Tech [Auto]
C State package limit setting [Auto]
C1 Auto Demotion [Enabled]
C3 Auto Demotion [Enabled]
----------------------------------------------
BCLK Frequency [200]
PCIE Frequency [100]
DRAM Frequency [DDR3-2005]
UCLK Frequency [Auto]
QPI Link Data Rate [Auto]
Memory Configuration Protect [Disabled]
>DRAM Timing Control--------------------------
CAS# Latency [7]
RAS# to CAS# Delay [9]
RAS# PRE Time [7]
RAS# ACT Time [24]
RAS# to RAS# Delay [Auto]
REF Cycle Time [Auto]
WRITE Recovery Time [Auto]
READ to PRE Time [Auto]
FOUR ACT WIN Time [Auto]
Back-To-BackCAS# Delay [Auto]
Timing Mode [1N]
Round Trip Latency on CHA [Auto]
Round Trip Latency on CHB [Auto]
Round Trip Latency on CHC [Auto]
WRITE To READ Delay(DD) [Auto]
WRITE To READ Delay(DR) [Auto]
WRITE To READ Delay(SR) [Auto]
READ To WRITE Delay(DD) [Auto]
READ To WRITE Delay(DR) [Auto]
READ To WRITE Delay(SR) [Auto]
READ To READ Delay(DD) [Auto]
READ To READ Delay(DR) [Auto]
READ To READ Delay(SR) [Auto]
WRITE To WRITE Delay(DD) [Auto]
WRITE To WRITE Delay(DR) [Auto]
WRITE To WRITE Delay(SR) [Auto]
----------------------------------------------
CPU Differential Amplitude [Auto]
CPU Clock Skew [Auto]
IOH Clock Skew [Auto]
------------ Extreme Engine Digi+ ------------
Digi+ PWR Mode [T-Balance]
PWR Volt. Control [Auto]
Load-Line Calibration [Auto]
CPU Voltege OCP [Enabled]
CPU PWM Frequency [Auto]
Extreme OV [Disabled]
Extreme OC [Disabled]
CPU Voltage [1.275]
CPU PLL Voltage [1.400]
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage 1.4 [Auto]
DRAM Bus Voltage [1.65625]
>DRAM REF Voltages----------------------------
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA [Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA [Auto]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB [Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB [Auto]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC [Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHC [Auto]
----------------------------------------------
IOH Voltage [Auto]
IOH PCIE Voltage [Auto]
ICH Voltage [Auto]
ICH PCIE Voltage [Auto]
---------- Spread Spectrum Control -----------
CPU Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
DRAM Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
***on-board jumper dependant
@Phatonian71
Looks like ur ramm is too high
Take it down to 1600 ~!
Edited your template, check blue colored settings.
There's something very wrong with that picture! Chanell C Data and Control voltages :confused: IOH, IOH PCI-E, ICH, ICH PCI-E voltages, more then 3V :eek: impossible.
Check blue settings in your template.
Yeah that seems a bit high either that or mine is to low...
http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/8338/image1wa.th.jpg
Question where are you getting the BIOS code print out?
@donmarkoni
What's the downside to reducing CPU PLL for Bloomfield chips?
Thanks.
Someone suggested that my CPU may have become damaged, I have bought another i7 920, and the results are exactly the same, no signal to the monitors when I attempt to overclock.Quote:
Hi guys, great thread, learnt a lot from it
Over the weekend I added a ek-fb re3 waterblock and a Silverstone Strider 1500w psu to my system.
However, I now cannot overclock my system at all, when I change the Ai Overclock Tuner from Auto to Manual and exit the bios, the motherboard gives me the post beep as normal, power to my peripherals (keyboard, mouse etc) but no signal is sent to my monitors.
The only way I can get the motherboard to post properly is to clear the cmos, and everything works correctly at stock settings.
Previously I was running my I7 920 at 4GHz, 1.35V on the Vcore/QPI, 1.2 IOH, never tried anything extreme or out of the ordinary.
CPU is at 35-40oC and NB at 30-35oC, even so I put back the stock heatsink, but the problem remains.
The problem occurs on both bios chips (bios1 = 0802, bios2 = 0901), and when I set voltages manually.
Has anyone else had a similar experience, or any clue as to what is going on?
Many thanks,
Rhia
edit:
Also I have noticed that the motherboard now only detects 4GB of ram, whereas it used to detect 6GB
@Donmarkoni
didnt even see that, evo sux sometimes :).. crazy bug or something..
Ill do another run wit HT enabled
Your voltages are just fine, don't worry, they tend to drop or rise a little bit when playing with memory and left those on auto. :up:
Take your camera or mobile phone, take pictures and write it down. There is no other way. ;)
In my experience, you loose stability. :yepp:
Could you post your BIOS settings using template, when set to manual, so people can help.
Brighter side is that you can keep a better overclocking one when your problems are solver and sell the other one. ;)
When less memory is detected = needs more V =]
vQPI ;) helped in my case.
Not showing the correct ram?
Give this a try, good info...
http://i4memory.com/f54/asus-x58-6-1...stalled-19200/
yes :)Quote:
Did this happen when you changed cpu? 4GB?
Just to be clearer, whenever I exit bios, whether or not I make any changes, the problem occurs and I need to clear cmos to get the board to boot, below is an example of what I have tried on many occasions to get to work.
Quote:
BIOS 0802 / 0901
Target CPU Frequency 2666MHz
Target DRAM Frequency 1066MHz
LN2 Mode Disabled***
QPI Loadline Calibration Enabled***
Sync Mode [Disabled]
AI Overclock Tuner [Manual]
OC From CPU level Up [Auto]
CPU Ratio Setting [21]
CPU Turbo Power Limit [Disabled]
>CPU Configuration----------------------------
CPU Ratio Setting [21] - set manually
C1E Support [Enabled]
Hardware Prefetcher [Enabled]
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetcher [Enabled]
Intel(R) Virtualiyation Tech [Enabled]
CPU TM Function [Disabled]
Execute Disable Bit [Enabled]
Intel(R) HT Technology [Disabled]
Active Processor Cores [All]
A20M [Disabled]
Intel(R) SpeedStep(TM) Tech [Disabled]
Intel(R) C-STATE Tech [Auto]
C State package limit setting [Auto]
C1 Auto Demotion [Enabled]
C3 Auto Demotion [Enabled]
----------------------------------------------
BCLK Frequency [133]
PCIE Frequency [100]
DRAM Frequency [DDR3-1066]
UCLK Frequency [2132] - set manually
QPI Link Data Rate [Lowest (not slow mode)]
Memory Configuration Protect [Disabled]
>DRAM Timing Control--------------------------
CAS# Latency [9]
RAS# to CAS# Delay [9]
RAS# PRE Time [9]
RAS# ACT Time [24]
RAS# to RAS# Delay [Auto]
REF Cycle Time [Auto]
WRITE Recovery Time [Auto]
READ to PRE Time [Auto]
FOUR ACT WIN Time [Auto]
Back-To-BackCAS# Delay [Auto]
Timing Mode [1N]
Round Trip Latency on CHA [Auto]
Round Trip Latency on CHB [Auto]
Round Trip Latency on CHC [Auto]
WRITE To READ Delay(DD) [Auto]
WRITE To READ Delay(DR) [Auto]
WRITE To READ Delay(SR) [Auto]
READ To WRITE Delay(DD) [Auto]
READ To WRITE Delay(DR) [Auto]
READ To WRITE Delay(SR) [Auto]
READ To READ Delay(DD) [Auto]
READ To READ Delay(DR) [Auto]
READ To READ Delay(SR) [Auto]
WRITE To WRITE Delay(DD) [Auto]
WRITE To WRITE Delay(DR) [Auto]
WRITE To WRITE Delay(SR) [Auto]
----------------------------------------------
CPU Differential Amplitude [Auto]
CPU Clock Skew [Auto]
IOH Clock Skew [Auto]
------------ Extreme Engine Digi+ ------------
Digi+ PWR Mode [T-Balance]
PWR Volt. Control [Auto]
Load-Line Calibration [50%]
CPU Voltege OCP [Enabled]
CPU PWM Frequency [Auto]
Extreme OV [Disabled]
Extreme OC [Disabled]
CPU Voltage [1.3]
CPU PLL Voltage [1.81]
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage 1.3 [Auto]
DRAM Bus Voltage [1.65625]
>DRAM REF Voltages----------------------------
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA [Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA [Auto]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB [Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB [Auto]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC [Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHC [Auto]
----------------------------------------------
IOH Voltage [1.23]
IOH PCIE Voltage [1.5]
ICH Voltage [1.2]
ICH PCIE Voltage [1.5]
---------- Spread Spectrum Control -----------
CPU Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
DRAM Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
1.5V QPI? WTF?
http://www.abload.de/thumb2/linx77er.jpg
Anyone here use the GO BUTTON or mess with it?
I've tried to set it so when I push it, it overclocks to a stable 4.2GHz that way I can run a lower clock of 3.6MHz 24/7 then when I need the boost for other things I can just push it.
Anyhow it locks up when I push it?
I know you can't change the Multiplyer just the FSB and voltages with it, Am I missing something?
If you are using water cooling, you may have tightened your block down too much. I have had this same problem, once was because I tightened the water block down too much and it put too much pressure on the chip. The other thing to check is bent pins in the socket, sometimes a slight bend is enough to cause this to happen. Lastly, and what I believe is my problem is a trace that is cracked from the board warping due to weight or something along those lines. I had three GTX470's on my board with water blocks and it was horizontal. I was having the issue and I checked and sure enough the board was warping around the PCIe slots. I placed rubber foam underneath to correct the bend, but I am afraid it's too late. If I remove one of my cards, the problem goes away. Still working on a solution, maybe place it an oven and try a reflow.
What I did was to copy and paste the template into a text file. I printed the document. Then I went into the BIOS and wrote down my settings next to the appropriate item on the paper copy. Then I went back and edited my text file. I did move it to a spreadsheet so that any time I change the settings I update the file in a new tab. That way I have a record of each combination that I try.
have any one the 1005 bios
Bios 1005 is real
http://www.abload.de/img/zwischenablage01yneq.jpg
Thanks for the input, when I received the second CPU, I haven't rebuilt my waterloop fully, just using a Corsair H50 for quick assembly.Quote:
If you are using water cooling, you may have tightened your block down too much. I have had this same problem, once was because I tightened the water block down too much and it put too much pressure on the chip. The other thing to check is bent pins in the socket, sometimes a slight bend is enough to cause this to happen. Lastly, and what I believe is my problem is a trace that is cracked from the board warping due to weight or something along those lines. I had three GTX470's on my board with water blocks and it was horizontal. I was having the issue and I checked and sure enough the board was warping around the PCIe slots. I placed rubber foam underneath to correct the bend, but I am afraid it's too late. If I remove one of my cards, the problem goes away. Still working on a solution, maybe place it an oven and try a reflow.
I've looked at the pins, and none appear to me to be off slightly, maybe it would be different under a magnifying glass...
As for warping, my 4850x2 and 4870 aren't that heavy, and I get the same results if I only use one card.
Does anyone else have any suggestions, or is the only option available to RMA the board?
Hi wheres is url for bios 1005 Thanks :up: mabe i can reach over 260 bclk with 1005 now :D allready at 256 with 1004
with a new Xeon, it's normal to have no fan (this normal) but also without protection (black cover) at the CPU?
Stable HT on..
Cant run it with 1.81 pll, errors every time..
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/5...tonstabiel.jpg
Now raise BCLK !!
>_<
:D We demand bios 1005 now !!! :up: come on share it
I would love to try 1005, please share if you can.
Thanks FireWire for the presents ;) Using 1004 and it's wonderful :) The perfect gift :p:
Thanks donmarkoni, kurumi_Japan, and AceBaran for your opinions on the different bios'. With so many versions available it can get a bit confusing, especially for me since I don't get much time to test them all. Your thoughts are always appreciated thanks guys :up:
On a side note: I've noticed that the users are suggesting different bios' based on their setup, and the main difference I see is CPU. Seems for Bloomfields the new 1003 & 1004 are good, so I've decided to use 1004. It seems 9124 is favored for gulf.
Very nice bclk going on there. What bios?
0878! I like it because it's very strong with memory (though my memory isn't strong).
The biggest help with the BCLK was a PCI card and a PCI-E speed of 135MHz.
At 116 PCI-E, I was stuck at 254 BCLK, 118 PCI-E I got to 257.
I believe I maxed out the chip this time around before PCI-E came into play.
EDIT:
And here is why I HATE this board.
http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/x...erxx/22771.png
Sweet score, right? What happens if you raise the BCLK?
http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/x...rxx/P16356.png
It murders the score. This is the biggest POS 3D board in existence if you have to push 3D clocks. The two screenies were done with the same BIOS and all the same multipliers (with the exception of the IMC, I dropped one multi lower on the 221 BCLK run). Sorry I forgot to open the memory tab on the second one, but it gets the point across.
I spent $400 on this board, I had no idea that meant I might be lucky enough to have a board that is okay for pushing BCLK without slow mode enabled.
Is this a valid reason to RMA? Do I have a chance at getting a better board?
Cool thanks. I just grabbed a killer batch 3570 off EGay recently and will be testing soon on my III. :D
Nice! You should be able to get some sick clocks out of that! What kind of benching will you be doing?
Pretty much everything once I find the max stability. It is going in my CM torture case on dual remote loop glycol cooling which can be chilled. I just need to grab a 480 and another EK block.
@bassplayer "It murders the score. This is the biggest POS 3D board in existence if you have to push 3D clocks." +1000
other than that its a nice board but doesnt that just piss you off, at anything above 4500 or 215bclk my scores drop.
Yep. I love this board but that is a fatal flaw.
Have you always had these Bclock 3D drops. Or was it with the newer biosses ? I'll test tonite trying to replicate ya probs and I'll pass the info with your and mine screenies to the bios department guys...
Seems the Formula III has got similar issues... I hope for Asus it's a bios bug :p
Where is bios 1005 then :( ?? dont lie about this bios
i have some anoying issue that is driving me crazy for past few days, i got this board barnd new .
on every change on any value in bios board wont boot its just lights qled cpu and no post, then i have to turn of the psu and when board discharges then it posts, and when i go shut down computer from windows pc shuts down bott it cant post after that beefore i shut down the psu again, so to simplify board posts only if the board was discharged -.-
i repeat its brand new, tried everything two different psu corsair 650, seasonic 620, certified ocz ram all combinations, all bios settings default or overclocked, failsafe, bioses 0402,0704,0901,1004,0878, one o r two eps connectors, ez plugs, different graphic card, different slots what else could i do ;(
no warranty
i also have pci debug card which says 00 on no post
helppppppppppppp
I've had this issue as long as I've had the board. IOH was 1.3V both times and PCI was 110.
It would be amazing if this was a BIOS bug! That would explain the hard wall right a 4.0 QPI.