board was dead..
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board was dead..
that means that the ocz is elpedia or promos or qibmonda and has a good chance of shipping DOA, and the patriot is probly GKX so run it at 4-4-4-10 and it will be fine, the dfi x38/48 dont like gkx cas 5 until u get to 1200mhz+ and some times higherQuote:
Originally Posted by Shalamay
next time buy something reputable like mushkin, gskill, or corsair, if u buy a board for ocing as its main purpose then the ram is the most important thing to pic, u have to get something stable and that runs at its rateing with good sub timings, i know that ocz has some pl10 kits and thats unusable
sorry to hear that mate...Quote:
Originally Posted by freaksavior
don't you mean is dead?Quote:
Originally Posted by freaksavior
Thanks...Its in rma right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
Yeah.. is dead. or was dead. either way its dead. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
Well I drempt about this board for ages before I finally could afford to get one, £170 it cost me from over-:banana::banana::banana::banana:-suckers in the UK, anyway, havent had any trouble whatsoever banging this board straight upto 450fsb with my quad Q6600 x 8 @ 3.6ghz) and 4gb OCZ Flex 2 1150mhz running at 1120mhz 5-5-5-15. anyway here's the dilema, but first I will post my settings and then show you the dilema:
This are my current settings:
CPU Feature
- Thermal Management Control: Disabled
- PPM(EIST) Mode: Disabled
- Limit CPUID MaxVal: Disabled
- CIE Function: Disabled
- Execute Disable Bit: Disabled
- Virtualization Technology: Disabled
- Core Multi-Processing: Enabled
Exist Setup Shutdown: Mode 2
Shutdown after AC Loss: Disabled
CLOCK VC0 divider: AUTO
CPU Clock Ratio Unlock
CPU Clock Ratio: 8x
- Target CPU Clock: 3600
CPU Clock: 450
Boot Up Clock: AUTO
DRAM Speed: 266/667
- Target DRAM Speed: 1120
PCIE Clock: 100mhz
PCIE Slot Config: 1X 1X
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum: Disabled
SATA Spread Spectrum: Disabled
Voltage Settings
CPU VID Control: 1.4875v gives 1.525v with CPU VID Special Add on Auto
CPU VID Special Add: Auto
DRAM Voltage Control: 2.12v gives 2.10v
SB Core/CPU PLL Voltage: 1.510v
NB Core Voltage: 1.555v
CPU VTT Voltage: 1.310v
Vcore Droop Control: Enabled
Clockgen Voltage Control: 3.45v
GTL+ Buffers Strength: Strong
Host Slew Rate: Weak
GTL REF Voltage Control: Disable
x CPU GTL1/3 REF Volt: Auto
x CPU GTL 0/2 REF Volt: Auto
x North Bridge GTL REF Volt: Auto
DRAM Timing
- Enhance Data transmitting: FAST
- Enhance Addressing: FAST
- T2 Dispatch: Disabled
Clock Setting Fine Delay
Ch1 Clock Crossing Setting: Auto- DIMM 1 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 2 Clock fine delay: Curren
- DIMM 1 Control fine delay: Current
- DIMM 2 Control fine delay: Current
- Ch 1 Command fine delay: Current
Ch2 Clock Crossing Setting: Auto
- DIMM 3 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 4 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 3 Control fine delay: Current
- DIMM 4 Control fine delay: Current
- Ch 2 Command fine delay: Current
Ch1Ch2 CommonClock Setting: Auto
Ch1 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 Command to CS Delay: Auto
Ch2 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 Command to CS Delay: Auto
CAS Latency Time (tCL): 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD): 5
RAS# Precharge (tRP): 5
Precharge Delay (tRAS): 15
All Precharge to Act: 6
REF to ACT Delay (tRFC): 52
Performance LVL (Read Delay) (tRD): 7
Read delay phase adjust: Enter
Ch1 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 1 Phase 0 Pull-In: AUTO 7
- Channel 1 Phase 1 Pull-In: AUTO 7
- Channel 1 Phase 2 Pull-In: AUTO 7
- Channel 1 Phase 3 Pull-In: AUTO 7
- Channel 1 Phase 4 Pull-In: AUTO 7
Ch2 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 2 Phase 0 Pull-In: Auto 7
- Channel 2 Phase 1 Pull-In: Auto 7
- Channel 2 Phase 2 Pull-In: Auto 7
- Channel 2 Phase 3 Pull-In: Auto 7
- Channel 2 Phase 4 Pull-In: Auto 7
MCH ODT Latency: 1
Write to PRE Delay (tWR): AUTO
Rank Write to Read (tWTR): AUTO
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD): AUTO
Read to Write Delay (tRDWR): AUTO
Ranks Write to Write (tWRWR): AUTO
Ranks Read to Read (tRDRD): AUTO
Ranks Write to Read (tWRRD): AUTO
Read CAS# Precharge (tRTP): AUTO
ALL PRE to Refresh: AUTO
Right and here's the dilema: Memory bandwith SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!, I mean come on, my P35-T2R was better than this, any suggestions, im already on the latest bios.
TryQuote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
T2 Dispatch: Enable
Ch1 Clock Crossing Setting: Aggressive
All Precharge to Act: 5
Maybe you could also enable the "Ch1 & 2 Read delay phase's"
Ok, the patriot is on its way for an rma. I could never get the ocz to work at all. My buddy gave me his crucial ballistix (we the put ocz in is comp, no problems or errors) and about all I can get it to do is stock settings with it at 800. Anything over and it won't load windows. I dont understand why this is so hard? It was not like this when I put it all together, it booted right up and the ocing began...now I'm just glad to get it to load the bios and boot. Thank you guys for the help.
Thanks for the quick reply, set everything you mentioned above plus tightened up a couple of other subs, ive set Ch1 Clock Crossing Setting to MoreAggressive, Ch2 Clock Crossing Setting has to be set to the most at Norminal, anything better and I get no Post, and ive set Ch1Ch2 CommonClock Setting to Aggressive, More Aggressive give me a BSOD when entering Windows, However with all this set the way it is, Memory performance is still no good, the only difference I have seen is a tiny bit faster on the Latency, Write and Copy still SUCKS!!!! dont know if it makes any difference but im using the Green memory slots, after memtesting later I may try the yellows.Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
anybody using any fans on the NB sink with the clips? i was looking at grabbing one and not sure what size it is.
yep, im using a small 70x70 fan on mine, the screws are long enough that they slip into the fins and it holds it firm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattle
Andrew.
Im using a 60x60x10mm Evercool fan, perfect fit, nice and quite and does the job perfectly.
http://www.shinyhardware.co.uk/produ...0mm_12v/12452/
nice thanks for the pic 60x60x10 it is !
sadly ever since bios 8/29 came out.. I need vvt and cpu vcore levels of my Maximus formula for 4.0Ghz.
Does anyone know if this mobo is compatible with ECC RAM? I know the X48 supports ECC, but I'm not able to find any documentation that confirms its supported by the X48-T2R.
What's up with x48 T2R's bios's? I go buy some fresh ocz flex II 2x2 dims plus an e8600 and atempts to use some nice 4.5ghz+ oc together with my two 3870's but couse NOOOO..!! :mad:
You can do crossfire @ cpu's stock-speed but over that the display-outputline changes to card nr 2 in slot nr 2 and the crossfire is alla disabled!!!
Is this a current problem with the bios's or what?
This is just nuts!
from what i read on a dutch webshot its not ofcourse i dont know how accurate there info is.
http://www.highflow.nl/index.php?tar...product_id=419
ECC-geheugen wordt ondersteund Nee
What bios is best for quads again? Should I even bother? I'm pretty happy where I am at on whatever factory bios I have.
EDIT : Nevermind, used my brain and decided to search. Success =P
Not sure why I didn't think of this, but I have some Kingston PC6400 ECC sitting in a server at home. Test results to follow. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by DoomSayer
No problem here.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l1...48_t2r_ecc.jpg
any idea why DFI did not include in the X48 LP UT T2R box a Crossfire cable?
Yup !!!, firstly its not done by cable anymore its done by using bridges the same way that nVidia do it. Secondly its not upto motherboard manufactures to supply these bridges and cables, they are supplied with the GFX cards you purchase, so if you have brought 2 cards without bridges/cables then take them back.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolZone
I dont quite understand this, but are you saying you can only run crossfire with the CPU etc running at stock speeds, and if you overclock then crossfire is disabled ?Quote:
Originally Posted by c.freak
Can someone else who has 2 cards available please confirm this, as I was just about to buy another HD4850 and put it in crossfire, but if it mean ive got to run stock settings then im not bothering, i'll just grab 1 better card.
Hey!
We need people to post at this thread for a very interesting feature in bios.
Have a look and post if you are interested here:
http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showthr...?t=7997&page=2
Well don't get the whole thing wrong now which makes you don't wanna buy a second 4850, i'll explain the situation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
So! I got a sapphire 3870("first" batch/generation card that came out here in Sweden) and at last i got a Powercolor 3870. One of the first sapphire's died even though neat temperatures but that's about it, both cards worked great on my x38 T2R until i got the x48, even that's a long story why i changed so i'll skip it (DEAD anyways)
well here's the thing. At stockspeed 3.33 the crossfire works perfect and 3dmark points in the right direction and stuff but in like 3.5 or somewhere around 333<>350 something happens and my primary samsung 24" goes black and as some freakin backup and the cards switches output, DVI @ card 1 (sapphire) goes DVI @ card 2 (powercolor) so i plug in the screen at the second card and heads into xp, vista and the crossfire is completely disabled. This problem drives me nuts but i'm having this feeling that the sapphire is kind 'a incompatible somehow.
I'd got'a say it feels good to even pass by someone who pays attention to this. Never ever beforce encountered these ******* probs.
Hey,
Sorry I haven't read through the entire thread, but I want to pair this board up with an E8400 and some PC2-8500. Is the board pretty smooth with some moderate overclocking? No major problems or quirks?
Thanks,
Suman
if you not gonna crossfire you better off with ut p35Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumanji
if you gonna crossfire its a great board
Ok, do the P-series board generally overclock better? And why would you recommend P35 rather than P45?Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
Thanks,
Suman
Crossfire working fine here, I took the gamble, and im definatly not a gambling man, but I thought what the hell and went out today and purchased another 4850, set it all up and booted into windows, at first I didnt think it was going to work, there was some teething problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by c.freak
I un-installed the drivers, downloaded the latest drivers, and insatlled those, then re-booted, at first in device manager 1 card was working fine and the other had a message saying this Windows has stopped this device from running, WTF!, so I un-installed the drivers again, cleaned out the registry, deleted all folders relating to ATI like the profile folder etc, then re-booted again, I then re-installed the drivers again, and hey presto its working, on my overclocked system on the DFI x48 mobo.
Hey guys
I changed my case to a Lian Li V1010 from a P180
Unfortunately, it doesn't have a fan at the top. Since my CPU cooler is a TRUE, I can't turn it to face toward the back of the case because the Chipset cooler is in the way.
What are some great chipset heatsinks I can use?
Thanks :o)
Well you might as well build a Thermalright city and grab their SLI nb cooler. [Australian site deal with it :p:] It should allow for any cpu cooler.
with all the issues I'm having with DFI LP LT X48-T2R I switched to a rampage formula and most of my problems have gone away.
What kind of problems Safan?Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
the 8/29 bios no longer allowed me to oc and it has issues with the 4870x2 and AA. the rampage still has issues with AA but it's not as bad as the DFI board.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumanji
C'mon! what the heck's wrong with dfi.. really don't get how there bios's suddenly become so weak to highend components and crossfire for that matter. Im up to change my gfx's to either 4870x2 but that includes an 850W+ psu and it'll get quite expensive but as i can see it from you it would be a bad move :( Or else there's 4830 or 4850 untill the r8xx-series arrive next year.Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
Actually.. Im gona show you guys what FSB exactly busts out the CF :down:
I have never had any problems with DFI mobo's at all, including this one, no matter which bios ive used, my Expert, P35-T2R and this x48-T2R have all performed flawlessly, I wish I could say the same for ASUS who have lost my business for good now.Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
This DFI LT-X48-T2R overclocked so easily to the speeds I was aiming for that im bored now.
I will never buy another ASUS board for as long as I live, the only board ive ever owned by ASUS that performed OK out of 3 was a P5B deluxe, I think it was a P35 Chipset if I remember right, the Maximus formula P35 wouldnt overclock stable at all, and later found out over 75% of them had faulty NB chips, do you think they recalled them, did they heck, they just brought out a revised edition of that board, so that one hit the wall, and the latest one was crap too, P5Q-e P45 chipset, with every new bios for that board it got worse and worse, and oh my god, I have never seen a bios get corrupt as easy as that one did.
Just waiting now for DFI to release their new P45-UT-T2R board. :)
p.s just one quick question, would any of you guys recommend bumping up the PCI-Express freq in the bios a bit when running crossfire, currently im at the bog standard 100mhz ?
:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
if u want to bench then raising the pci-e to 112-125 can help but it also increases the SB frewuency so u will get drives dropping from arrays and it can be a mess if u go over 115
u also need to keep in mind that there is a 2x multi on the buss if its in pci-e2 mode so 112 is 225 and 125 is 250 for the accrual clock
I swear I'm like the only person who has no brand loyalty. I guess it says a lot of my character :shakes:
:D I do want a DFI X58 though.
I had no problems with my DFI x48 pre 4870x2. it oced great and was stable and then the 4870x2 came out and at first there was no bios that supported it. they fixed that but I haven't been able to OC since they so. I gave a board to a friend and he's having trouble ocing too. I had no trouble with the MF that I had I just wanted to run crossfireX and my areca in a ddr2 board and the dfi x48 was the only one to offer what i needed. sadly crossfireX with 2 4870x2s was worst than a single 4870 in this board.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
Guys here is my shopping list so far:
DFI LT X48-T2R
E8400 Wolfdale 3GHz
Corsair Dominator PC2-8500 4GB kit
I'm aiming to hit at least 4GHz (445Mhz) - you reckon that looks ok? Anything else you'd all recommend?
Cheers,
Suman
Should be fine.
x58 is very nice but a whole new learning curve, and way way to overpriced, I cant see prices dropping on those for a long time, and I wonder if they are gonna release DDR3 tri-channel kits and what they will cost or if your gonna have to just buy 2 kits and have one modual spare unless you buy a 3rd kit to use all six slots.Quote:
Originally Posted by MomijiTMO
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/produc...d=5&subid=1283 Motherboards
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/produc...d=6&subid=1272 CPU's
u have to have some brand loyalty, its just a matter of if they are the same what would u pic, IE all of the powerchips ddr2 4gb kits, they are all clock about the same but i would go mushkin even though other companies would use the same binings. or what about beer, every1 has a beer that theay drink and not just the cheapest with the highest % of a typeQuote:
Originally Posted by MomijiTMO
or what about anti-brand loyalty like for TT or koolance or gigabyte or promoss
Im a bit brand loyal, but I wouldnt say it was strict, Motherboards, DFI or Gigabyte only, ASUS used to be on the list but no more, memory is anything as long as it clocks well or is rated for high speeds like OCZ Flex 2, GFX well what choice do you have ATI or nVidia, I go for what is mid priced but performs well, and ATI at the moment are winning that, nVidia are overpriced at the moment, and you get the same performance out of a mid-Priced ATI card, (my 4850's were £110 each, nVidia GTX260 equivellant £200+), CPU, well it used to be AMD a few years ago, but now anyone with any sence buys Intel, PSU once again, anything will do as long as its not generic.Quote:
Originally Posted by zanzabar
One company I can say I am loyal to though is for my printer, Epson all the way, as they are the only company I know of that still use 4 seperate ink carts, everyone else uses these overpriced all in one carts that dont last 5 mins.
I am struggling to get my Q6600 stable at 3.4.
I have the following settings......
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...h/DSC_5909.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...h/_DSC5913.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...h/_DSC5912.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...h/_DSC5911.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...h/settings.jpg
Is it just a case of upping the vCore or should I be looking at changing something else?
Thanks!
set your vtt to at least 1.4
and bump the NB to 1.35-1.45 depending on what temps allow
I think it's the NB that is holding you back. I'm stable on 3.6 with only 1.216VTT so it depends on your chip.
Ok, thanks for the suggestion. However, that thing is too expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by MomijiTMO
Any other suggestions?
Thanks :)
Gotta be your North Bridge mate, seems very low voltage to me, im having to put 1.54v through mine, resulting in 1.52v (true) to keep my Q6600 stable at 3.6ghz, along with 4gb of RAM, VTT on the other hand is quite low for me at 1.3v.
The one thing you have to remeber about quads is they put a hell of a lot of strain on a motherboard running at stock settings, so imagine the strain of an overclocked Quad, you need board voltages to compensate, Prime/OCCT failiures are not always your CPU that is failing.
a 120mm fan works almost as good;)Quote:
Originally Posted by gersson
@Sean: i'm guessing you're putting that much voltages on the NB since you got 4Gb of RAM right? or 2gb or 4gb doesn't make a difference on the amount of voltages on the NB?
it makes a difference;) higher ya wanna go the more juice you needQuote:
Originally Posted by emoners
1.45v-1.63v
Oh yeah lol. IBT + 3.2Gb = more volts = NB on fire.
LMAO :rofl: not on fire, I like to think my temps are quite good, and dont go up to much under preasure, the NB stays below 50oC even with prime running, I dont worry about the System Temp too much as this is the PWM area, and these are rated to 160oC, which is why DFI also dont worry about them and dont ship there boards with heatsinks on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by MomijiTMO
Originally Posted by emoners
@Sean: i'm guessing you're putting that much voltages on the NB since you got 4Gb of RAM right? or 2gb or 4gb doesn't make a difference on the amount of voltages on the NB?
Yeah it prolly is down to the fact im running a Quad with 4gb of OCZ Flex 2 1150mhz RAM, but even with my 2gb kits of RAM it still required alot of NB voltage, after all my kits are not even running at their stock speeds, im currently at 1128mhz on my OCZ kit with the CPU at 3.6ghz, I think the CPU is the biggest preasure adder to the NB, ok RAM prolly adds a little, but with my 2gb kit the NB still required around 1.48v, not far off the voltage im running now.
yeah,.. 1.53v NB here, stock cooling, 55c priming :up:.. i like this board in terms of cooling, none like my x38 quadGT
I run 1.65 vNB because I loveeee my PL6 :yepp::yepp::yepp:
Well I am still getting blue screen when I am running a Prime Small FFT test, normally around 1 - 2 minutes in.
I am running the following setting now....
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...h/_DSC5915.jpg
...I said it before, you NEED to turn up your vtt to 1.35-1.4
I ran my q6600 @ 4050mhz for 8 months @ 1.63 Vcore 1.601 Vtt. No degredation, No instability. The chip is nearly invincible as far as normal voltage ranges go, so don't worry about killing it
It just seems to be a massive jump in voltages when I have only gone from 3.3GHz to 3.4GhzQuote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
Its not really massive, its not gonna require more cooling. as you hit your FSB walls with this board the VTT needs to go up quite a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slinwagh
MORE POWER CAPTIN, I would say raise you VTT to 1.3-1.35v max, you really shouldnt need anymore than this, VTT is your CPU/Boards FSB voltage controll, and as you are not running high FSB speeds, you really shouldnt need moving much at all, I mean I only need 1.3v to be stable with my FSB at 450x8=3.6ghz.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slinwagh
However, I would recommend bumping up your CPU volts, 1.33v set in the bios is still stock voltage, and you are not going to get a good CPU overclock out of your Quad with stock voltages unless you have won the jackpot and won an amasing/excellent clocker, my cpu did around 3.3-3.4 on stock volts, but I wasnt happy with that, I wanted MOOOORRRREEEE, and the CPU needed more power, and large increases of it too, final speed of 3.6ghz and 1.5v nearly a 0.20v increase from stocks which is a max recommended overvolt for any CPU, raise it to at least 1.43-1.45v (its not going to hurt it) then test for stability, if your stable you can continue to raise the FSB speeds bit by bit, until it becomes un-stable again, therefore requiring more CPU voltage, or if your happy at 3.4ghz then you can slowley start reducing the CPU voltage, bit by bit, testing again inbetween each drop until you hit in-stability again, then just knock it back up a couple of notches, to settle.
I dont know what type of cooling you are using but be sure to monitor your CPU temps, and I dont mean with smart guardian, I mean with something like real temp, or core temp, the extra voltage will raise your prime temps drastically if you are on shoddy air cooling, the thermal spec for Q6600's is 72oC, do not let your cores exceed this, in fact if they get any hotter than about 60-65oC, then back off a bit.
Also note that it is best to break out the calculator and use VID special add instead of the VID control to set CPU voltage.
I can do 3.6 on 1.392V IBT Stable. To get to 3.8, it took me 1.55Vcore. HUGE jump so I'm staying at 3.6. Every chip is different and if Sniipe and others say the chip is hard to kill, it's hard to kill :)
anyone know anything about the thermal paste that comes with the t2r? for the nb heatspreader? is it the same as ceremique?
reason is i pulled the heatsink of the mosfets and theres gunk all over the board and none at all on the mosfets lol .its pretty messy. i want to clean it up abit and reapply . was thinking id just use the paste that came with the board. instead of buying as5.
im a cheap bastard i know lol
i just want to make sure the thermal paste isnt conductive since some will end up on the board.probably.
no worries is good stuff just warm it up before you use itQuote:
Originally Posted by adya
its nonconductive
ya i think DFI uses Shin Etsu
Praz said it was Shinetsu X23-7783DQuote:
Originally Posted by emoners
CN :)
Look familiar guys? :D
http://www.tcmagazine.com/images/new...T_board_01.JPG
thanks gys , i just googled it , its fairly good stuff i hear. mine doesnt seem to need heating though, its fairly runny. must be that australian weather lol its hot here.
NICE! too bad I dont think I will ever use a nehalem....Quote:
Originally Posted by MomijiTMO
Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
How do you mean?
anyone water cooling a pair of 4870's on this mobo shoot me a pm if you dont mind me asking a few questions.
The VID special add is more stable IIRCQuote:
Originally Posted by Slinwagh
use the auto setting for voltage and then add voltage by the percentages. IE. 1.245 VID and the 107.23% setting goes like this: 1.245 x 1.0723 = Vcore out.
(moved to correct thread... teach me to post while on the phone AND working..)
I need some help from the Q6600 OC Gurus..
So I've tried about everything I can think of, and I'm up against a couple walls, and I'm asking for help. I've been locked in Athlon64 land the last few years, and this is my first return to the intel platform since P3's.
I bought what I considered to be the best MB (5th DFI board) the X48-T2R, bought the best waterblock and after hearing about all the pain of cooling the NB, the best NB waterblock I could find. bought good low-latency ram (big g.skill fan), and then popped for a Q6600. Thanks to building machines for friends, I've now had the chance to rotate 3 different Q6600's through my setup. All have required volts to reach 3.2ghz. The only real difference was the amount of volts required to reach 3.0. First chip took 1.4, next chip took 1.375, the chip I kept took 1.325.
DFI X48 T2R, 829 bios, 4 sticks of DDR2-800, Q6600, MC-TDX block. MC-X48 block on NB. (bios settings quoted below)
Couple of things I can't seem to get past.
1. FSB wall - I can't get stable over about 420. If I drop to two sticks I can get into windows at 430, but over that is not even bootable.
2. MHZ wall - 3 different Q6600's I can't get over 3.2 stable. 3.2 I can get stable with 1.425 - 1.45 volts. I can bios-boot at 3.6 (400x9) but no chance of getting into any OS.
3. Memory performance - I'm only seeing about 4800-5100 in memtest, and I'm seeing guys posting about getting well over 8-9k?
I've tried just about every setting I can think of (except messing with GTL) and I can't seem to get past the walls.
I'm going to post the bios settings from memory, not at home.. will correct if I can.
This is for running stable at 3.2ghz. Any suggestions,helps,etc would be welcomed.
Quote:
CPU Feature
Thermal Management Control >>> Disabled
PPM (EIST) Mode >>> Disabled
Limit CPUID MaxVal >>> Disabled
CIE Function >>> Disabled
Execute Disable Bit >>> Disabled
Virtualization Technology >>> Disabled
Core Multi-Processing >>> Enabled
DRAM Timing
Enhance Data transmitting >>> Fast
Enhance Addressing >>> Fast
T2 Dispatch >>> Disabled
Clock Setting Fine Delay
Ch1 Clock Crossing Settting >>> More Aggresive
Ch2 Clock Crossing Settting >>> More Aggresive
Ch1Ch2 CommonClock Setting >>> More Aggresive
other subtimings >>> auto/current
CAS Latency Time (tCL) >>> 4
RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD) >>> 4
RAS# Precharge (tRP) >>> 4
Precharge Delay (tRAS) >>> 12
All Precharge to Act >>> Auto
REF to ACT Delay (tRFC) >>> 36
Performance Level >>. Auto
Read delay phase adjust >>> auto (all)
MCH ODT Latency >>> auto
Write to PRE Delay (tWR) >>> auto
Rank Write to Read (tWTR) >>> auto
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD) >>> auto
Read to Write Delay (tRDWR) >>> auto
Ranks Write to Write (tWRWR) Auto
Ranks Read to Read (tRDRD) Auto
Ranks Write to Read (tWRRD) Auto
Read CAS# Precharge (tRTP) >>> auto
ALL PRE to Refresh >>> auto
Voltage Settings
CPU VID Control >>> 1,45000
CPU VID Special Add >>> disabled
DRAM Voltage Control >>> 2.15
SB Core/CPU PLL Voltage >>> 1.505
NB Core Voltage >>> 1.425
CPU VTT Voltage >>> 1.233
VCore Droop Control >>> Enabled
Clockgen Voltage Control >>> 3,45
GTL+ Buffers Strength >>> Strong
Host Slew Rate >>> Weak
GTL REF Voltage Control >>> Disable
PCIE Slot Config 1X 1X
CPU Spread Spectrum Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum Disabled
SATA Spread Spectrum Disabled
Exist Setup Shutdown >>> Mode 2
Shutdown after AC loss >>> Disabled
CLOCK VC0 divider >>> auto
CPU Clock Ratio >>> 8x
Target CPU Clock >>> 3200 MHz
CPU Clock >>> 400 MHz
Boot Up Clock >>> Auto
DRAM Speed 400MHz/800
Target DRAM Speed DDR2 >>> 800
PCIE Clock >>> 100MHz
PCIE Slot Config >>> 1x 1x
I have a crappy Q6600 and am not having the issues you have faced with your 3 Q6600s.
Probably up your VTT to 1.25 [recommended for 400FSB]
@Blammo: try loosening your RAM subtimings... maybe 5-5-5-15-tRFC to about 40-50s
first off, get your ram timmings loosed right off, set 5-5-5-15- and change that 36 to 54 to start with, your low memory bandwith could be to do with your low FSB but could also be down to running 4xsticks, if your running 4 sticks of RAM this is going to be very stressfull on the board so your gonna need a :banana::banana::banana::banana: load of extra NB volts, so set 1.45v-to-1.5v for you NB and your CPU voltage keep to about 1.45v, dont worry about FSB walls etc, some people swear by them, other people dont belive in them at all, take for instance my CPU, it will clock to 4ghz, and will boot into windows and sit there, but is definatly not stable, not for 1 second, I have to back it right off to 3.6ghz for stability.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blammo
Set these to auto for now, CPU mhz is king and comes first, you can worry about tweaking board and RAM later.:
Ch1 Clock Crossing Settting >>> More Aggresive...................CHANGE TO AUTO
Ch2 Clock Crossing Settting >>> More Aggresive...................CHANGE TO AUTO
Ch1Ch2 CommonClock Setting >>> More Aggresive................CHANGE TO AUTO
Mine are tweaked to this manually after hitting my max CPU speed:
Ch1 Clock Crossing Settting >>> More Aggresive
Ch2 Clock Crossing Settting >>> Normal
Ch1Ch2 CommonClock Setting >>> Aggresive
anything harder and the board doesnt get past the post screen.
Might need a bit more VTT too, get that up to about 1.3v for now just to cover your ass.
Also get your performance level off AUTO, it could be trying to run the stock PL of 5 or 6 which would explain alot, try 7, or 8, there is also a sub section for perfornce level in the bios I forget off the top of my head what is called, but there are about 8 or 10 options in the menu, the available options for each one is AUTO or ENABLED, leave them at AUTO.
See how you get on with that for now, Oscar has done a excellent job with tweaking to the end pretty much every DFI motherboard since the P35-T2R, most of the settings on these boards you can set to auto, and they will run just fine, there is still some that you do have to play with though.
Yup it is and I hate it, brought a tube of it a longtime ago, and didnt like it at all, seemed dry a brittle to me, and a nightmare to spread, cheap and nasty stuff:Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...roducts_id=178
I used MX2 on my NB and Ceramique on my PWM area, which I buy from Tom at ChilledPC too.
Everyone has a preference of TIM for various reasons. But cheap and nasty Shin Etsu is not. In the semiconductor industry their products are recognized as some of the best available. Being hard to spread is a consequence of being developed for machine application.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
i agree with you praz its good stuffQuote:
Originally Posted by Praz
but some people need o learn how to spread it:eek:
if people not gonna warm up the Shin Etsu they should not use it
was nice of dfi to give some Shin Etsu instead of the usual white goop
I think you've posted several times about warming Shin Etsu up. Just assumed it was common knowledge. There's a thread somewhere here that contains a post from Oskar as to why he specified this particular TIM be used.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
So this board is not so hot for overclocking quads I gather? I'm thinking about a Q9550, and getting as close as possible to 450MHz FSB (3.8GHz)... would I be better off with the Asus P45 (or X48)?
Cheers,
Suman
:rofl: i read up on it when i bought some last yearQuote:
Originally Posted by Praz
you think even that i posted to warm it up most will read it or even remember :rofl:
its good stuff just just hard to use for some
mx2 is dummyproof:rofl:
This board overclocks quads just fine, even upto 450fsb, I wouldnt buy another Asus motherboard if you gave me twice the money and asked me to buy two, go P45 if you want but not the ASUS boards, Have a look at the ASUS P45 P5Q-e/Deluxe thread, there you will see just how easy the bios etc on those boards gets corrupted, you will spend half of your overclocking time re-flashing it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumanji
X38 and X48 are excellent boards especially if you want to run Xfire as it runs both cards at x16 however if your looking mainly for the latest technology then go for P45 if you dont intend on running Xfire.
I wouldn't say excellent but allright, for the time being DFI doing the job :rolleyes: somehow it feels like i am the only goof to still run 3870's but happen to have Xfire-issue's regarding x48 T2R. Replacing them for a 4870x2 pretty soon but still, something tells me the bios are gona bug during increase of FSB :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
But my main problem is I need to replace the chipset Heatsink in order to change the orientation of my TRUE.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
Nice try, though...:shrug:
We gave you the option. It costs more money than you want to spend. Unfortunately there isn't really anything else.
Anyone knows what was the last BIOS launched for the LT X48 without all those MCH options in GTL settings (used to be very simple and functional but after I received my RMAed board they flashed it with this latest BIOS that won't boot with my saved options from the old one)...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jor3lBR
Yeah it was either 725 or 320 not 100% sure which one though however if you have GTL's enabled and those other strange 3 settings in their availble try setting them to (30/30/BO) or (40/40/CO) but apparently they dont really require setting up as far as 500fsb, however there is another new bios on the way, currently in the beta section:, hopefully they might do away with that stupid adition to the bios:
http://us.dfi.com.tw/Support/Downloa...FLAG=B&SITE=US
If you don't alter the default values of the MCH parameter table that is the same as it not being included in the BIOS as an adjustable option.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jor3lBR
guys anyone tried the LANPARTY DK X48-T2RSB PLUS
i searched the thread and it couldnt find anything.
at a $200 price point with, what appears to be true 16x/16x crossfire lanes,, i like it. but fear this maybe another DFI dud,, especially after my DFI P45 JR nightmare!
what is the word on this board ?
Just for you. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Lestat
I've got more to post if I can find the time.
http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7973
Ok, thanks for the help anyway, guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by MomijiTMO
Looks like I may have to bite the bullet :mad:
i did warm it somewhat but with mosfets i didnt really need to since there such small areas. it was actually quite easy to spread i didnt have a problem at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Praz
i wish i took a pic of what it looked like before, it was terrible lol gunk all over the board , i mean alot of gunk to. there was none at all on the mosfets either.
looks alot better now as u can see in the pic.
also added a mcw30 block to . did i fit it on right? had to use amd connectors and it had to go on an angle. is that ok?
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...S6300258-1.jpg
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/S6300255.jpg
That's fine. I have it on my sb using the same mounts.
EDIT : Errrr if you are going to use the Swiffy barbs, make sure to use a o-ring/plumbers tape because I don't think they have a o-ring.
yeh , i used o-rings. i didnt really want to use them but i ran out of chrome barbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by MomijiTMO
ill swap em over when i manage to pick some up .
metal barbs are hit and miss on those, they arnt tapped for them and they need really long threads so it depends on what barbs u can use from how your tops on the mcw30
After looking through my photos to find some nude shots, I'm using Bitspower barbs [DD have identical ones] with no leaks. I know all about barb issues though with my SW16. D-Tek didn't fit, BP leaked so I ended up using some Enzo barbs.
Beta Bios from DFI 2008/10/02 for LANPARTY UT X48-T2R
Major Reasons of Change:
1. Added F9 Hot Key function.
2. Fixed ABS function fail when upgrade BIOS
3. Fixed System cannot display when "two" ATI HD 4870X2 are used in Crossfire.
4. Update Intel new 45nm CPU micro code.