so thats with your gkx right, then my theory would be correct and i think that there is a setting that we are missing some ware, or with adjustments to the fine delay gkx and whatever have will work correct
so thats with your gkx right, then my theory would be correct and i think that there is a setting that we are missing some ware, or with adjustments to the fine delay gkx and whatever have will work correct
i got it on more aggressive
n delays
enabled
auto
enabled
enabled
enabled
enabled
auto
auto
enabled
enabled
n i can drop performance level ny 1 compared to my ballistix
but still this board loves ballistix best 1200mhz +
with d9gkx its just piking the right fsb+ running 5-4-4-9 or 4-5-4-12
whats with the board revisions?
Mine is Rev. A China , got it in January
Any "serious" differences?
i think that they just came with diffrent bioses and there was a problem with the voltage table for the NB with the china boards, mine is a tiwan
I got everything put together and now I have a new problem.
Its the memory.
I have 2 pc6400 crucialx sticks and all it does is the standy power LED blinks and thats it.
Junk memory or what?
after checking my connections.
I tried one stick at a time. (should have done that first)
one stick boots the other wont.
typical luck
I purchased these as a matched pair but I bet that there is no such thing.
2 sticks one little box last year when they were selling for $60.
not sure what they do on replacements..
any good 2G sticks for this board if not any good 1G sticks I should be looking at?
My other system has Gskill bhz and I don't want to strip that system to get this working.
Coretemp is now listed as x64 ready. http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
Hello guys :wave:
What u may recommend for watercooling north bridge?
Swiftech MCW30 is only choice?
And for cooling south, will be passive radiator enough?
I think about Enzotech CNB-R1 or CND-S1L, how they perform?
Hi,
Watercooling for NB in this board you could use the more up to date Enzotech SNBW:
http://i26.tinypic.com/2ebg57a.jpg
For SouthBridge haven't seen better then the SLF-1:
http://i32.tinypic.com/fx5gkx.jpg
If you don't care about looks/sexiest get the MCW30 it will do the job also.
Hm, I like how enzotech looks very much :up:
But may I ask - Enzo SNBW will it fully cover NB? It seems basement not square.
And about SLF-1 - will be enough just passive, without fan?
I'm planning to run quad at ~500 FSB
Thx
GSkill 2x2GB 4BGPQ PC 8000, --> cheap, good.
I have 2x2GB OCZ XTC platinum, probably about the same, with the Gskill MAYBE a tad better in terms of overclocking. Got 4GB for EU90. Running 530-540mhz, 5-6-6-18 or 500ish 5-5-4-15. It's good but not ultra-high end overclock memory. Both very good price/perf ratio.
Back "in stock" at the newegg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813136042
The SNBW covers nearly the entire northbridge. I have one on mine and it works fine. Another NB block that works is DangerDen MCP-Universal and it comes in sexy brass tops!
Also, :rofl: :ROTF: at 500 FSB Quad. Unless you are on phase or cascade, you will never see that. Sorry, just the facts.
wow, nearly?! just how ahalf pregnant woman, right ;)
also ive got several news about swif-30 and enzo blocks - guys say they dont cover whole hs, sad
i think my ek asus will be best choice
but about sb - will be small passive enzo enough at 480-500 fsb?
thx )/
I have both the Enzotech SNBW-SLI NB waterblock and the Enzotech SLF-1 SB heatsink and Fan, and they both work great! My temps for NB at 3890 MHz under Prime 95 are only 39 C. The Enzo NB doesn't quite cover everything, but it covers the main 90%, and I sure can't complain about temperatures:D
I use 2 x HD 3780's in crossfire and the clearance is perfect. And I do have one installed (have to update sig).
The SLF-1 is not passive has a great fan that can spin on the desired rpm's just control it thru the system fan connector...
It's inaudible also.
When I say "nearly" I mean over 90%. It may not cover the entire block, but the exposed part is tiny. I had temps in the mid 30s at 1.7 V on the NB. I don't know how else to convince you that it works, but it really does.
Whoever your "guys" are, they are wrong. don't make me take a picture with my :banana::banana::banana::banana:ty cell phone cam, cuz I will!!
Hi,the board have problem with Vista X64?
to all looking to watercool the chipset dangerden is coming with a special block designed just for the p-35 and x-38. I saw it from hardocp forum a person working from DD said so. let just hope it covers all of it and released soon.
dose any1 still sell the bios blocks i think that i need to get a spare if im going to go over 500 fsb since ive already had to reflash my bios
and how do u tell what delays to use im not getting how this works and zamz recommendations wouldent post, but i did get this at 1ghz c4, the c4 is better for general use from what ive been doing so im sticking with that for now
i go that better with the fine delay, but i need to up the read
well its time for new memory and I don't know what to do.
dfi x38 UT
E8400
TRUE 120
any memory get this to 4g on a good day LOL
anything close and I will be happy.
2x1G sticks or 2x2G sticks ?
xp pro 32 bit
what should I do?
yes zanzabar you better with cas 4 like me ;)
go 505 or 510 fsb its much better;)
zanzabar i'd sell ya one of my chips for 10$ but you in the us
but the guy i bought it from is in cali verry close to you
he goes by biosdepot on ebay been dealin with him 5 years now
good service n gives 90day warranty too n real cheap
so do i just need any 8MB block or is there a specific one
and i saw other boards getting to 1ghz c4 with performance lvl 7 is there any chance that i can get that has any1 gotten that on the dfi
just the brand gotta be the same i think
on my spare chip
# are
49lf008A
33-4C-NH
0527328-B
just hot flash 1 n see
thats what i did after i flashed dk bios:rofl: into the lt :rofl:
to be honest my spare chip works better than my original chip
i cant wait to flash the x48 bios in ;)
Humm not that this make any difference but does the Swifech MCW30 cover the hole surface of the x38 chipset?
Well anything that covers at least 50% will do better then the original DFI NB cooler I could barely cover 35% using any type of installation, I probably got a defective peace.. .
I'm moving on to water on NB's too...
the chip is 10% larger than the p35 it just has an ihs on it so it dont have to cover the whole thing just the middle
See what I mean: :down:
http://i29.tinypic.com/2vmsq4k.jpg
Probably they made the X48 chipset flatter :-)
Hm, for cooling NB Ive found that my previous EK Asus 1 block covers NB just ideally. Only problem is that mounting holes don't much, so I make mounting plate for it (similar as D-Tek Fuzion).
And for SB I'll use Enzo CNB S1-L, fully passive without fun.
Thx to all for advices.
anyone tested TR 05 SLI or non-SLI on the NB? Is it even possible?
I have spent several hours making custom plate for NB from peace of aluminium, and now I have EK Asus block sitting perfectly and covering 100% heatsink (have to polish it though, to get look like D-Tek plate)
http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/7226/img22412bw3.jpg
But let me annoy u and ask last time about SB :)
Will be Enzo block CNB S1L (without fan) enough for SB cooling? Or should I get MCW-30?
I just dont want to use a fan, or huge heatsink like Thermalright 05 becoz of some austethic reasons.
So ENZO CNB or waterblock?
Thx again
Wow, i have that same block for my striker extreme. I wish i have the time to make something like that. or why dont ek make a adapter so it will fit. nice job rioja can you post temp of it?
the link for the DD block for NB is
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1032168155
Is the audio driver on DFI's website the only one that can be used, or can you just use the Realtek HD Audio codec? I only ask because Realtek updates their driver much more frequently.
Also, what's the latest beta bios for the LT X38 and where could I find it?
i think you should be able to use RL HD
the beta is older
this latest
http://us.dfi.com.tw/Support/Downloa...FLAG=A&SITE=US
really pitifull i was honestly expecting @ least 1 every 2 weeks
i was bashin gigabut for crappy x-38 bios but @ least they were releasing them
performance was better on gigabut x38:rofl:
makin me wish i had a maximus:rofl: @ least i coulda turned her into a rampage
just wish i had my hands on x48 bios;)
I doubt the x-48 will be that much better than the x-38 at least the ddr2 version. I mean its basically the same chip right? Now with ddr3 thats another thing.
Someone here had posted about using a backing plate when mounting a waterblock for CPU. I took things apart today, and added the backplate I got with my Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme HS.
With new thermal paste with no "cure time", my temps have still dropped by 5 C. In addition, the temp variance between cores has been reduced by 2-3 C.
I am working on setting things up for "everyday" use right now. my system is running Prime 95 @3600 MHz (9 x 400 MHz FSB) with only 1.2750 vCore in BIOS. Smart Guardian is reporting it as 1.29 CPU.
It used to take 1.2825 vCore to do the same thing with my old DFI Lanparty UT P35-T2R, so I am pretty happy about that:)
So for whoever posted the backing plate idea (was it you C-N?), I thank you:up:
QX 9770 [ES] 5832 MHZ LN2
Test systems
QX9770 (ES) 3.2 / 5832 mhz 1.82 Vcore - Liguid Nitrogen
2X 2900 XT CF Vampire Mod 883/994 Stock Cooler
DFI LP LT X38 T2R/G Mobo
2x 512 MB DDR2 1036 MHZ 4-4-4-8
1000 WATT Silverstone PSU
Cpuz Validate: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=319571
3DMARK2001 :99K
TEST SYSTEMS
QX9770 [ES] 1.84 Vcore-LN2
2X 2900XT CF 512MB-512 BIT VAMPIRE MOD 883/994 STOCK Cooler.
Mushkin 2X 512 MB ddr2 980mhz 4-4-4-8 2T
DFI LP LT X38 T2R/G Motherboard
1000 WATT PSU
Nice results there, congrats EXPANDER!!!!!:D
WOO-HOO, look at that vcore...STILL...very nice results!
thanks you.:toast:
is there somebody who tested our board for highest FSB stability that would be also nice to see :) like over 560FSB+++ :D
if some1 sends me a phase kit or some good liquid, or a pot ill test it i have the ram and cpu for it
I got a 60mm x 25 mm fan today to use to cool my PWM area on motherboard. I have temporarily mounted it with velcro tape, but need a more permanent and substantial mount. I am wondering if anyone has any ideas/proven techniques?
While the mount right now is temporary, the results I am obtaining mean it should be a permanent addition. At 3600 MHz and 1.2750 vCore, my System (PWM) temps were hitting up to 67 C with no fan. Mounting the fan to draw hot air away from heatsink brought temps down to 58 C. But mounting the fan to blow down onto the PWM heatsink has dropped my temps by 27 C (from 67 C to 40 C).
For those who have been wondering if adding a fan is worth the time, my results certainly say yes. Now if I can just figure out how to mount it more securely...
I am trying it with snap ties going through spare holes in D-Tek chrome mount. So far it seems to work ok, but if there is a better idea, I would love to hear it.
hope someone can give me some info about temp readings.
E8400 and a TRUE cooler
at 400 buss and 3600mhz
running orthos beta room temp is 68F/20C
I am trying Praz setup and Clunks too
dfi monitor shows
Idle----throttling here back to 2200 on boot
CPU 12C
SYS 31C
Chip 30C
after 30 minutes load with orthos I show at 3600
CPU 31C
sys 34C
chip 32C
OCCT shows the same on CPU temps
I tried coretemp 95.4 beta and 97.1 neither work...they just show 45C
the only voltages I have modified over stock are memory and NB
Memory 2.0
SB 1.51
NB 1.291
CPU 1.1
I just don't feel these temps are correct..what do I need to use to measure correct temps.
IF they are correct I am going to try 450 and see what it goes to.
thanks for any and all help
1. the first thing to do is look at your other temps.
2. let your system shut down and cool off so that everything is the same temp.
3. turn on your machine, IMMEDIATELY hit the bios and the pc health page.
now look at your NB temps. chances are they will be roughly the same temp as your room. (only at first boot though after that the nb will get warmer and warmer depending on the voltages you use for it)
4. Now look at your cpu temp in the bios.
5. take the difference in those two temps and adjust accordingly.
mine was around 10c cooler. so i added roughly 10-12c to my cpu temps.
the same is true for windows, just look at your nb temps and add a few degrees.
you will ALWAYS know that your cpu is warmer than your room. always.
on air or water your cpu can never be lower than the temperature of your room, ie; ambient temps.
there ya go....
you guys sitting here freaking out about your temps... it doesnt take a genius to figure out how to calculate your temps to a rough number.
well my bios temps show the same thing.
I get worried when I see cpu temps lower than ambient.
I am in the shop and airtemp right now is 64F/17.7F
cpu 12C this is in the pc health status in bios.
Boot into windows and it shows 13C.
so 12 + 10 =22C idle by your statement.
I will buy that.
But max temp is 24 this morning so +10 = 34C running at 410 FSB ?
with these voltages 410 is max stable in windows, anything else and it wont finish the windows and reboots.
is there any program that will display correct temps? I can't believe that coretemp doesn't even run on this system.
You may have a bogus chip, read more about it here: http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showpos...79&postcount=1
If you want a passive heatsink, you might be better off with the larger Enzotech version:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/encnfoconohe.html
Thanks :up:
Such a significant temp drop might be just becoz of sensor placement and airflow directions, did u try difference by touch.
Though straightout desicion would be getting pwm waterblock, i ordered mine already, quite expensive - 40eur - but i love dfi board so much ;)
Hm, also ive decided use water on south, may som1 suggest variant?
If the MSCW30 fits perfectly I don't no why some are saying that the Enzotech SNBW doesn't fit full surface.
In my understanding the Enzotech's surface is bigger then the Swiftech's, from their website the SNBW: Base: 50(L) x 50(W) x 9(H) )mm
Against MSCW30:
43 x 33 x 4mm
anyone go past 555fsb yet if so post your settings
i been tryin n will keep on tryin
Best I've done is a 1m pi at 525, but haven't really pushed the voltage.
Had a freaky thing happen today though. I was playing around running 3d06 with a mild oc. Nothing more than I've run before. The system just died. Tried to reboot multiple time, but nothing but C1 error. I reset cmos, still nothing but C1 error. Tried 1 stick of ram and different slot, C1 error. Different video card, C1 error. Took out the battery, C1 error. Left out the battery for an hour, C1 error. I was like sh[t I borked the board. Decided to try the other stick of ram again and it fired up. I though well I've got a bad memory module, but put the other back in and in ran fine. Strange. It must have been the cmos, but I've never seen this happen before. Just glad she's running again.
My "touch test" shows a significant drop in temps. I am Prime95 stable for 13+ hrs at 3600 MHz with 1.300 vCore. Furthermore, I ran throug the whole range of Super Pi 1.5 XS mod with not even one "hang". In the past, I would need to run Super Pi several times at various times to get results to work, and I was never stable enough for 32M.
My 1M Super Pi result is 14.526 s, my 8M Super Pi result is 2m 59.232 s, and my 32M result is 14m 09.552s. Note that these were all one shot tries. I am sure if I did each step 5 times I would better my results.
I am also running 4-4-4-9 timings on my memory with a 4:5 divider (500 Mhz memory speed) with 2.15 vDIMM. It seems that what the fan over the PWM heatsink did was give me stability, and the confidence to move ahead to bigger and better overclocks.
As for going with an aftermarket PWM waterblock or heatsink, I am a littleskittish after doing the same with my DFI LanParty UT P35-T2R ended up in an expensive lesson in welding (I shorted across MOSFETS when I tightened block to point where it shorted through tape to cooler). It was an expensive lesson:(
For SB I'm not sure, it seems it should be one of MCW30, Enzo or one of hundred from EK, but which one? :shrug:
For PWM I know only one option made by MIPS (not my pic yet)
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/2812/mch149lb6.jpg
covers mosfets and 2 long details CPL near, 155g
What does it mean? I can't use thermal compound (MX2), or it was becoz of wrong installation? Which block or hs did u try?
Got my DFI a few days ago, so I'll join the club folks :)
Didn't get to set it up yet, since I only returned from the mountains yesterday. Will be firing the mobo up with my Q6600 with the new single stage unit I got, hoping to get to the CPU's stable FSB limit (was around 480 on the Abit IX38) :)
For cooling, I will go with Mips PWM and NB blocks when they arrive next week, until then it's stock + fans (hope that will do).
Which bios to use anyways? Using 4x1GB D9GMH, the quad and single 8800.
Thanks for that. I'm in the US, so I'm not sure where I can get those. I'll have to do some looking. Are those G1/4 fittings?
There are only two BIOS files right now. Most people are finding more acurate NB voltage readings with the latest one.
Yep, I've just been unplugging mine, which usually works, but this time that didn't work either. All I can say is, I must have really scrambled the cmos somehow. Just happy it came back and I didn't have rma or buy a bios chip. Although I should probably pick up a spare bios just in case.
I was using a Thermalright HR-09 U Type 2 MOSFET cooler. It was shortened a bit, and was mounted using small nuts and bolts rather than push pins. I used thermal tape between it and MOSFETs, and the thermal tape was cut to fit in between the raised row of components that is closest to the CPU area. These raised components had Arctic Cooling MX-2 thermal paste on them (the factory puts thermal paste on these as well).
Anyway, what I think happened is that I was a bit overzealous in tightening down the cooler to the motherboard. I got a short across the MOSFETs and the cooler, even though the thermal tape was there. I believe it was because the layer of thermal tape got too thin. Note: There was direct metal to metal contact at the MOSFETs. The only metal/thermal paste/metal contact was in the same area where the factory heatsink had it. Also note, I used insulating washers on both sides of the motherboard, the same way the factory did in other areas.
Shorting out my motherboard was an expensive lesson ($360 CAD plus a lot of time), and for those who are planning on adding aftermarket blocks, I urge caution when tightening mounting hardware.
For me, going with the 60 mm x 25 mm fan over the factory heat sink makes sense. It is keeping my PWM area within 1-2 C of what the NB chipset shows in Smart Guardian, and the NB is a water cooled block (temps right now in Samrt Guardian while Prime 95ing at 3700 MHz for 4.5 hrs are: CPU=48 C, System=37 C, and Chipset=35 C).
If I had something like a MIPS waterblock instead of arrangement I have now, it would look a bit prettier and be a little bit quieter, but based on my NB vs System temps in Smart Guardian, it would only gain me a very small improvement, while adding the risk of another short.
I've got this board on the way right now, should be here on Tuesday. I also placed an order for the Enzotech Mos-C1 sinks. NB and SB are going on water, so I was just curious if these will be enough passive, or if I need to throw a fan on them? I just can't wait to get this board :D
how is this board for a q6600, im about to grab one for myself???? also im going to be using my g.skill 4gb 8000 set, anyone using this set, how is this board overall??
Ok folks, I finally got my rig up and runnin' again... took some time since it's my 1st single stage cooled system, but it runs great now (no leaks so far ^^)
Put my Q6600 straight to 4Ghz using a mere 1,4V and it seems to run out of the box, nearly everything in bios set to auto :D
Cool thing that board can read negative temps in Bios, and it has no qualms about running 4x1Gig either.
I left the stock HS on the SB and put some Alphacool block on the NB I had lying around, works a treat. 39C NB@1,39V currently, PWMs are rather cool too but I guess that's partly because of the subzero cooling.
Will post some pics later this week when I get to clean up this mess... for now, I'm glad to have my mainrig back online.
Hi all I've read this post (and yes its getting long) from start to finish and referenced it a couple of times --> good stuff. Anyway, looking for a 24-7 overclock so I have a Q6600 at 3.6 ghz (using Praz's setup -->thanks btw) and I was wondering about temperatures. I'm using 120 extreme with push/pull 1600 rpm scythe's the northbridge cooler is so close to the 120 I don't use a fan on it. A 60mm blows on the pwm area. Closed case 5 case fans 2 hd 2 optical in a smaller case. Running OCCT 2.0a the system peaks at 68 c on two of the cores the other 2 are consistently 2-3 degrees cooler. cpu temp reads 65 the pwm (system) hits 55c and the northbridge (chipset) hits 45c this is with an ambient temp of about 22c. Idle i'm getting 31 cpu 36 pwm 38 northb. 68 is kinda gettin up there anyone think this is a problem?
p.s. prime 95 runs cooler
new OCCT should use same CPU testing code as P95, AFAIK.
Btw. i got about the same temps, below 70 (68-69) on Q6600 at 3537 with 1.44 Vcore. I try to keep under 70 on the cores.
I got these temps on my core with this bios config:
http://i31.tinypic.com/s1p2fd.pngCode:PC Health Status
Adjust CPU Temp: +9
CPU Feature
- Thermal Management Control: Disabled
- PPM(EIST) Mode: Enabled
- Limit CPUID MaxVal: Disabled
- CIE Function: Auto
- Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
- Virtualization Technology: Enabled
- Core Multi-Processing: Enabled
Exist Setup Shutdown: Mode 2
Shutdown after AC Loss: Disabled
CLOCK VC0 divider: AUTO
CPU Clock Ratio Unlock: Enabled
CPU Clock Ratio: 9x
- Target CPU Clock: 3600
CPU Clock: 400
Boot Up Clock: AUTO
DRAM Speed: Auto (2:3 divider)
- Target DRAM Speed: 1201
PCIE Clock: 100mhz
PCIE Slot Config: 1X 1X
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum: Disabled
SATA Spread Spectrum: Disabled
Voltage Settings
CPU VID Control: 1.28125v
CPU VID Special Add: AUTO
DRAM Voltage Control: 2.150v
SB Core/CPU PLL Voltage: 1.51
NB Core Voltage: 1.504v
CPU VTT Voltage: 1.255v
Vcore Droop Control: Enabled
Clockgen Voltage Control: 3.45v
GTL+ Buffers Strength: Strong
Host Slew Rate: Weak
GTL REF Voltage Control: Enable
x CPU GTL1/3 REF Volt: 88
x CPU GTL 0/2 REF Volt: 88
x North Bridge GTL REF Volt: 96
DRAM Timing
- Enhance Data transmitting: FAST
- Enhance Addressing: FAST
- T2 Dispatch: Enabled
Clock Setting Fine Delay
Ch1 Clock Crossing Setting: More Aggressive
- DIMM 1 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 2 Clock fine delay: Curren
- DIMM 1 Control fine delay: Current
- DIMM 2 Control fine delay: Current
- Ch 1 Command fine delay: Current
Ch2 Clock Crossing Setting: More Aggressive
- DIMM 3 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 4 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 3 Control fine delay: Current
- DIMM 4 Control fine delay: Current
- Ch 2 Command fine delay: Current
Ch1Ch2 CommonClock Setting: More Aggressive
Ch1 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 Command to CS Delay: Auto
Ch2 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 Command to CS Delay: Auto
CAS Latency Time (tCL): 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD): 5
RAS# Precharge (tRP): 5
Precharge Delay (tRAS): 15
All Precharge to Act: AUTO
REF to ACT Delay (tRFC): 30
Performance LVL (Read Delay) (tRD): AUTO
Read delay phase adjust: Enter
Ch1 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 1 Phase 0 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 1 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 2 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 3 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 4 Pull-In: AUTO
Ch2 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 2 Phase 0 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 1 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 2 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 3 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 4 Pull-In: Auto
MCH ODT Latency: AUTO
Write to PRE Delay (tWR): AUTO
Rank Write to Read (tWTR): AUTO
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD): AUTO
Read to Write Delay (tRDWR): AUTO
Ranks Write to Write (tWRWR): AUTO
Ranks Read to Read (tRDRD): AUTO
Ranks Write to Read (tWRRD): AUTO
Read CAS# Precharge (tRTP): AUTO
ALL PRE to Refresh: AUTO
I use 2 CoolJag Everflow 40x20mm (18CFM) with a Zalman Fan Mate 2 to cool PWM, with that setup there is no need to use water on PWM.
One fan is placed on top of the PWM blowing air to it and the other one is installed outside the case attached in the backplate drawing air from the PWM area. I will post pictures If someone ask.
ok got my e8400 to 4GZ and ran orthos for 2 hrs no problems max temp was 48C
thats +10 of the reported temps just to be sure.
How do you get core temp to report temps on this board ? Locked at 45C
I am using the posted settings by praz and of course its throttled at boot 6x266
under load its 9x445.
I tried turning off throttling and it boots under windows but if you try to run any programs it crashes, then won't reboot.
it gets into windows and runs orthos fine but with no throttling it won't boot into windows at full speed...
bios settings or hw on the line ?
Quote:
How do you get core temp to report temps on this board ? Locked at 45C
OCCT 2.0A has the four core temps displayed as its running. Kinda nice and I watched the "cpu" temperature beside it on Smart Guardian.
I was reading up on this business last night after posting and this is what I have learned so far--> Smart guradian is watching Tcase (center of the die temp) while OCCT (or core temp) is reporting the T junction (each individual core). Q6600's with go stepping are allowed to reach a Tcore max of 71c. I only 58c running prime 95 but i think i was using the wrong version. Just dlin a new one. I hit 65 (Tcase) running occt @ 99.83 cpu load for 2 hours. Doubt I'll get anywhere near that, even gaming. I should be good.
System Info
zak
Q6600 @ 3.6 ghz (8 x 450)(Praz's setup)
DFI LT X 38
Asus En8800 GT TOP
2 Gig Crucial pc 8500
150 Raptor
200 Storage
Dual DVD
Lianli PC 68 (w/ blowhole & plus conversion)
Corsair 620 psu
Six case fans (120 side/120 top/dual 80 front/80 rear/60 rear)
Corsair memory fan
(You can't see it but my hair is blowing straight back! Yehaaa! lol)
I am having some space issues with my heatsink and the northbridge sink, how much do you think it will hurt the performance of the northbridge sink if I cut off about 1/3 of the cap on the northbridge heatsink in order to get the heatsink to fit the way I need it?
Here is what I am talking about, please excuse my lack of paint skills but this will give you an idea of what I am talking about.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...eatsinkcut.jpg
it should be fine solong as u dont nick the heat pipe but u might want to swap into the thermalright
Waaaa?!??! :confused: :( :shrug:
My comment was honest and no harm or malice intended! I don't think Praz took the wrong way. Praz helps me alot to get things goind on my boards back in DFI forum.
I was saying that yeah he didn't seem to have any issue, and I understand why now he got a great board. I got a Rev.001 board and I never had any issue what so ever with it, with the Rev.000 was bugs after bugs.
So I just think Praz is not posting results with Q6600 because he moved on into 8500's.
If you got any comment of my in wrong way just ignore it never my intention. :yepp:
My temps are way better now man I'm telling ya don't mess with original PWM cooling.
Bear with me because my X38 is off the case (making space for the X48) so I just took pictures where the fans where be:
pulling hot air out of the case: http://i25.tinypic.com/16kcrb5.jpg
blowing air into pwm area: http://i29.tinypic.com/1z3xqno.jpg
Just connected the wires together and made them go into 3rd fan connector and I regulate speed with Zalman Fan Mate2... Very simple.
I would tost that crap in the garbage and put anything else from Swiftech or Enzotech in the place... The original heat sink doesn't make a perfect contact (unless you got lucky and received a match with the mobo witch was not my case). Just make sure to install and uninstall many times to be sure it's good.
Hehe, you guys are cool. So..you get boards like the X38, OC your CPUs to hit 4ghz+ and check how high FSB goes...and once hit some good OC you toss the board and get on with the next generation board like x48? :)
we wont be tossing boards for x48 they are the same thing (maybee for ddr3 we would)
In my case I was payed for that setup (my cousin has it now) and I just brought a new low vid Q6600 and then when I was shopping for another X38 zipppp no more. Thats why I got the X48 (for the same amount or less then my X38 setup)...
They are probably the same with newer revision and as this was my 3rd X38 the higher the revision the better overcloker it would get with less volts and less bugs...
tnx for the pic's Jor3IBR :D I'll try it out this way and report if I'm getting any better stability :)
i just put in the hr-5/ifx got 5c-6c temp drop with intel stock fan
i'm @ 29c on nb now was 35c 2 hours ago with stock heatsink n 80mm fan
i kinda wish i got the sli version cause no way to get my true blowin out the back
its blowin out the top lol
i finally installed heatpipe cooler on pwm properly n only a 1c drop for me i'm @ 33c
do u guys think that this would fit on the mosfets (i know that its for the 780i)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/vi78mohekit.html
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c..._1992_71157960
Anyone tried this X38AD314 bios ?? Just noticed it here :shrug:
Any comments on using it ith E8xxx ??