Various threads, read about 3-4 cases
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Various threads, read about 3-4 cases
still didnt understand why the UD5 is better then the P6T...
Been running this thing almost non-stop since Nov and no WB leak thus far.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbylite
Phew! i thought it was a common issue, i personaly find Gigabyte x58 extreme waterblock pretty decent, would even be enough to handle P35/45/X38/48 NB heatload.
i think the same i7 CPU clocks about the same on various boards, a good way to judge how good/bad EX58-UD5/Extreme is, is check out what users are saying in this thread. there is alot folks to draw help from.Quote:
Originally Posted by Godmyster
There is nothing wrong with this water block at all. Just make sure that you check the screws before hooking up the water! The silent pipes quite honestly do more for the north bridge than that water block is able to handle. At first I just had the water block hooked up and you could feel the water lines getting hot. Then I hooked up the silent pipes and now I can't even tell a difference in the water temp in and out. I do have a small fan blowing across the silent pipes just to help with the cooling not that I think I really need it.
I should also mention that I did have the DS4 Board first but was not happy with the temps of the northbridge at all. the Ds4 has the same heatsink as the UD5 and that is what drew me to the extreme!
Same here, I've been using the Extreme with the NB waterblock since last November with no problems.
I also tried out the Hybrid Heatsink, but it made no difference as far as I could tell...
Interesting, I find that doesnt really require the silent pipe or water cooling. Just doesnt draw much heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by silverfox71
Hey C3D76, are you still using the f3 bios for that overclock that you are posting? have you tried any of the other bioses?
One thing is for sure this thing is as cool as ice compared to the DS4 that I was talking about. It could have been the board itself though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbylite
Hey Silverfox,Quote:
Originally Posted by silverfox71
Yes, I'm on F3 with settings in sig.
I keep going back to it for 24/7 usage because S3 works OC'd, and it requires less voltage thanks to the TDP limit still being on.
Otherwise I've tried almost every BIOS till F6e, and the ones that work best for me seem to be: F4j, F4m, and F5g.
So far I have,Quote:
Originally Posted by Villainstone
200x20
Turbo off
HT on
All other CPU features (speedstep etc) off besides Bidirectional whatever it's called.
Ram 7-7-7-20-1T
V.Core 1.35
QPI/VTT 1.355
IOH 1.32
DRAM 1.84
QPI PLL 1.32
Villainstone, I would suspect the processor before the MoBo.
Same here - I have the ggbt extreme and I have been running without the big fin thingy for about a month.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbylite
The block underneath does get hot but still oc's fine.
Running both 4.3 ht on and 4.48 ht off prime stable w/o the fins.
See the left side of the pic below.
back to F6a... F6e is instable with my perviouse stable setting, i get oc failure with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by stasio
im running:
bclck 200/ MM6 /7-7-7-20
and with:
F4j -> S3 works
F5x -> dont works
F6x -> dont works
imho thats a huge let down by gigabyte, 2 bios revions and they still can't get S3 to work again....
Ok, now I can't get EasyTune 6 to work here, Vista x32, been google it and looking here for some help, but the "little" i got doesnt help, dont get it? why make a program that dont work, tried F4 and currently F5 Final bios.. just crashing with GUI error.
Would really appreciate some help :) this tool is reeeal handy if it works, ofc i can use SETfsb, but no voltage control there :(
Cheerio!
Anyone here try the Asus P6T wanted to know what board to buy and why...
Thanks
No, Haven't tried that board, but I was were you are now before i got this board.
And I took this one, Look at this feedback here? 2300 Posts in one thread about two boards, just that is one reason, will you run into problem, someone will help you, and not just some crappy taiwain support that will give you an answer within 1 week. I got me a giga board before, P35 DDR3 board, and it worked flawlessly, OC good, even though it was their first? ddr3 board, and crapped out at 1950mhz ddr, it worked WELL, and no hassle. This board are slight cheaper(compared to P6T Del v2) has all the functions, looks good atlast, and for me are now working great!! All SATA ports are angled etc. and good people working on bios every other day... so why not? Gigabyte has gone up alot in my eyes the past 1-2 years. before i allmost only got asus boards, but seriously they have been giving me problems now and then, and are sometimes little hassle to do with in the bios, and the Striker board acually got me a little scared, couse it burned out on me :)
Only thing that annoys me are the Easytune 6 program, would really like that to work, but hey? thats not the board problem right?
cheers.
I 2nd what Infa said - ggbt has made a good pair of x58 boards in these.Quote:
Originally Posted by Godmyster
I have the extreme but the UD5 is just as good for less $.
If I had it to do all over - I would get the UD5 not the extreme - save the $.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Infa
Every F6x has worked for me with Vista, like GAR's announcement said.Quote:
Originally Posted by GAR
Ok, will try, Im putting in the F6C and will check..thanks.
Thanks for the tip, must have missed what GAR wrote, now its working, and its stable with the exact same settings as in F5, so looking really good so far :)
the F6B did NOT work with same settings as F5g so this is good.
Only sad thing is that when using the Easytune to "set" the settings, it brings down the x21 multiple to 20, and stays there :( nomather what setting is made, voltage,clock or something.
cheers.
Since the release of the i7 late last year because of work I've have had access to the P6T deluxe, Rampage II and the evga x58. Working with and OC'ing systems with those boards in it, I had little things I didn't like about each one so I decided I was def. gonna go with something else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Godmyster
Ended up with a gigabyte x58 and I've been very happy with it. P6T is a good board but I recommend ud4 or higher board over it easy. From minor things like pci-e slot placement, floppy etc imo gigabyte did it all better.
be glad you didn't have to work with the Foxconn Renaissance...omfg piece of crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by EveryFlowerFlow
Gigabyte did well with the X58's, never had a doubt since the day I got mine way back around launch. Still getting allot of fun out of it, these i7 920 can take a serious beating :)
you still on f4j rev? Im thinking about rolling to f5g, everyone seems to like it.
still on F4J and will never change my brother.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbylite
are you guys using stock cooling with this? i have a Xigmatek S1284C for the E8400 but probobly wond fit on this board right?
not unless it has a 1366 bracket. I use water cooling, with a Swiftech GTZ block.Quote:
Originally Posted by Godmyster
road-runner, while using DICE, did you experienced any motherboard cold-bugs or something?
I tried my i7 920 @ Extreme on DICE about 2 months ago, and couldn't get any better results as on cold water because of strange behavior of motherboard:
On cold water, same system with same settings (just remove DICE container and set up waterblock) started normaly with 1.6 Vcore / 1.6 Vqpi. WTF is going on?Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeRush
Hi ,can you tell me what the 5 blue leds are for by the side of the ram and what are you using to monitor your qpi and nb temps
Quote:
Originally Posted by andyr(uk)
If your talking about the 5 LEDs to the top right of the RAM (straight row up and down):
Page 25 of UD5 rev1.0 Manual - "The onboard CPU overclock LEDs indicate on which level the CPU is overclocked. The higher the overclock level, the more the number of lighted LEDs. Off: Normal Condition / F_LED1~F_LED5 : Blue"
If your asking about the 5 LEDs to the top left of the RAM (3 and then 2 LEDs side by side)
"Temperature indicator LEDs - ... The LEDs are off when the temperature is below 60C; the green LED lights up when the temperature is between 61-80C; the red LED is illuminated when the temperature exceeds 80C"
There are also LEDs for NB temps beside the NB.
Yeah it was those ones i was a bit concerned with but no probs then as i got all 5 on , finally getting somewhere with this board, proving to be a good one , wasnt too sure to start with as i never had a Gigabyte board before. Prime stable at 4.0Ghz so quite pleased , now reducing the cpu volts to see when i lose it.Quote:
Originally Posted by EtherWind
Did you hit the 222 wall? On reg water, I cant go higher. Raising voltages does nothingQuote:
Originally Posted by CodeRush
You see this thread?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbylite
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...27#post3703627
basically, the dude hit the same wall and overcame it with SetFSB. Give it a shot bruva.
Interesting, when I setFSB I lock at 221.9 as well. Maybe will try leaving those voltages auto like he did.
Only problem I had was I could not boot at 223, I could boot at 222. I am going to give it another try soon now that I finally got easytune working in 64 bit windows...Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeRush
GA-EX58-Extreme Beta BIOS F6f
This Beta addresses S3 sleep
Qflash issues may still persist, they are still testing the Qflash issues. So please use a @BIOS or a DOS Based flash!!
http://www.mediafire.com/?dzljji2ynsq
No, 221.9 and that's final. 1.575 Vcore / 1.575 Vqpi. Rasing voltages does nothing too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbylite
Crazy 231 BCLK on UD5 impressed me strongly. :) Need another DICE-bench try, but nearest dry ice factory is at ~500 kilometers distance. :(
Hi,
Just wanted to let you all know I tried X58 Extreme Bios F6f, and results are good :)
- S3 : FIXED ( Tested working @ 195 x 20/21 )
- Q-flash : FIXED
- EasyTune : Working
Hey, what QPI Voltage you using for that overclock and how is a Cold boot with it? False double/triple startup still there, or is that a NON Extreme issue already?Quote:
Originally Posted by C3D76
Hi LSD,Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsdmeasap
These are the exact and only settings I changed after "load Optimized Defaults":
C1e= off
Ram= 2:8 (7-7-7-24-2t, 1.64v)
Uncore freq= x18
QPI link = x36
BCLK = 195
PCI-e = 100
Cpu Vcore-> 1.40v
QPI VTT-> 1.315v
QPI PLL-> 1.20v
CPU PLL-> 1.80v
IOH-> 1.20v
ICH I/O -> 1.60v
ICH-> 1.20
SATA = AHCI
USB mouse+keyboard = Enabled
Onboard sound = Disabled
HPET = 64bit
Fan Control = Voltage
Ps. Oh, and this BIOS does not seem to have the double cold boot issue :)
and again back to F4j... with every bios higher then F6a i get a cold boot issue (oc setting reset).
Even when only use bclck 140 whit mem multi 6 and variouse cup multis, i get a rest after i turn of the power (turn of power and turn of the power strip, so the pc is without power).
My settings work till F6a, but with F6b or higher i cant coldboot anymore without a oc recover.... good work gigabyte....
Ble from now on i'll stick with F4j, i dont care for the double boot issue since it only takes a couble seconds and on F4j everything what i need works (S3, my oc settings).
Are you checking every new BIOS with F4j "Profile"?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornet331
.... good work gigabyte....
After F4j (released 03.12.08),16 new BIOS's has been released and no one work for you.:confused:
yep, i compare them with F4j (settings that are stable with F4j).Quote:
Originally Posted by stasio
Its not that bad, till F6a the same settings from F4j work, but S3 is broken.
With F6b or higher i cant cold boot, not even with 140mhz bclck without a oc failure recover. :clap:
Maybe its my cpu, but i doubt it. (but i will see, I plan to get a D0 920. :D )
Ok guys, I see all this 222 bclk, but i can't for the love of god get over 206 to even post, 210 i got to post once, then it rebooted with OC failure, then i used 1.50+ vtt to even get there, is there some kind of trick to get past that?
The cpu itself are a quite good voltage one, doin pretty stable now 3.8 with 1.26 loaded with stock cooler.. kind of tried to pull all the voltages to get it to boot even 211, raised all voltages a bit, and every one for itself too, Bad bclk cpu? seems almost everyone gets to 222, or maybe its just those who get there that's showin it?
I follow all the basic rules with 2x ram etc, qpi to x36.. any suggestions? Something i've missed maybe.
cheers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Infa
almost everyone gets to 222? Just a few are even attempting 222+ lol.
not every cpu is the same, everyting above 200mhz is up to the cpu.Quote:
Originally Posted by Infa
I can go up to 216mhz blck with ease (1.45-1.50V), everything above that requires "insane voltages". :p: (1.6x+)
Ok then fellows :P just seeing all peps getting annoyoed and all like, oh my good, im "only" getting 222 ... when im not even getting 205+ to boot win..
Ah well, I have to be happy then to even get past 200 :) Picking up my new Fuzion V2 tomorrow and hoping to get it to 21x205 atleast,and be satisfied :)
Then the tweaking will start! :) no idea now when 1.26 get the cpu to crash couse its to hot :P
BTW, have this uninstalled things in device manager, like 10 pieces of System Interrupt Controller, cant install them, neither Windows or INF tool will install them, tried installing over ICH10, wont do it, win online wont either, and cant find anything on giga either, anyone knows?
regards.
^werd as stated its all cpu
My b stepping goes to 221.5 before walling, my A stepping poops the bed way before at 214
Yes. S3 fixed. Needes one notch higher DRAM and VTT but looks good so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsdmeasap
I have 2-920s, one 205 is max the other will go to 222 and no more. I have tried both on the same MB/RAM etc. so it has to be the cpu, some are not as good as others...
Have you tryed any different boards?Quote:
Originally Posted by road-runner
Omg this one working on vista x64 , cheer ! :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by stasio
No, just the UD5 only. I have a UD3R but have not tried anything over 3.8Ghz as it is on air and crunching...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Bobbylite
I've never actually paid that much attention to them. I wonder at what overclock speed all five of them turn on... I'd guess around 3.6 or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by andyr(uk)
Interested to see how low you get the voltages at 4.0, my sweet spot is definitely 3.8/1.325v otherwise I have to crank the power up too much for a 24x7 system for my comfort level.
Hi guys! Please help me. I bought the UD5 board today with i920 and I have a GTX285 videocard. My question why is my videocard going into and out of 3D mode when using explorer and windows :S Its annoying plus the videocard makes this horrible hissing sound from components when in 3D and to have it regulary in 2D is just awful plus it should not go to 3D in windows!
And what is the best bios for this board right now and where to get it?
Can you actually notice it going in and out, or are you just obsessing on the temp app? I ask, because mine go in and out, and I don't notice it unless I'm starting at Precision tuner app.Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatoonSgtElias
The whining that you hear is coil whine. Get used to it, a large percentage of nVidia cards have done it since the 8800 series. My last 3 (8800GT, GTX260 and both of these 285's) scream like a pig getting kicked in the nuts.
Go here:Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatoonSgtElias
http://forums.tweaktown.com/f69/giga...st-bios-28441/
I mean I have never ever had this problem in 2D with other systems, today I buy a X58 system and pow, i get the videocard sounds in Windows 2D. And with Rivatuner I see the clocks going up and down like crazy just while opening a IE windows or smth. WTF..........
nothing to do with the X58, i7 or rivatuner. It's 100% GTX285. Either suck it up or RMA it. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatoonSgtElias
SLI Scales very good on the X58
Single GTX 285
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/743...4ghzgtx285.jpg
2x SLI GTX 285
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/245...sli4ghzci7.jpg
3x SLI GTX 285
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/566...2854ghzcpu.jpg
hey guys, i need a bit help please,
how do i know if my i7 920 reached his max blck? i just oced my 920 to 4200 mhz and when i run 3mdark my screen is flickering like hell. but no bluescreens at all.
btw, which voltage do i have to raise when i want to reach higher bclk frequency?
thanks
I just put together my friends new computer.
Comments and suggestions especially for reducing ddr3 latencies would be appreciated.
I was hoping to get ddr latency down to 40ns or less.
I have OCZ PC3-12800 1600Mhz with a XMP profile for 1600 and 1866 Mhz.
DDR on Extreme with 40-6-6-12-88-6-24-1 and 6-6-8-9-9-9-6-5-1-6-6-1 subsettings with 56-57-58 round trip set.
All cpu options including turbo are disabled except multi processor support.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m...990-1680-1.gif
It's a driver issue if it doesn't go in and out of 3d mode not a card issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReverendMaynard
I'm talking about the buzzing not the 2d/3dmode switching, which is caused when the card has to render an object, not just a random act. If you have Vista, and have aero enabled, it happens frequently and visually you can't tell it's happening unless you're staring at the clocking/temp app IE eVGA Precision or Riva Tuner.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagleclaw
I'm not sure if it's related, but I have been plagued by the dreaded nvlddmkm.dll errors for the past little while. Thanks to help from kind folks on this forum, I was able to get my sys o'cing again, but still have this issue. After tonnes of research and testing (i've tried underclocking my gpu, increasing its fan speed, changed power setup, etc).... I have tentatively concluded it is a RAM issue. Just watching a movie last night with Windows Media Player an error message popped up "Insufficient RAM to run application" and then nvlddmkm errors started up again. I have 9gb, so no way in hell thats accurate, but even windows task bar on the side said that my RAM was 95% utilized and pc was just chugging away (no other apps running). :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatoonSgtElias
I think with that info, and my past (negative) experience with overclocking with my GSKILL 2x3GB modules, I am going to purchase some new DIMMs and see what happens with them.
EDIT: I was just looking online to see what new Corsair RAM would set me back and I noticed that at 1600 the RAM modules are spec'd to run at 1.65V VDIMM. I have my BIOS set to 1.540V. I think I should maybe try bumping the voltages up before going out and spending money.
EDIT: Found a trojan on my box last night. sigh. Prepping a BART PE disc at work today to see what else found its way on. Man, diagnosing system issues is almost impossible. Is it the OC / Voltage / Nvldmmkm driver issue / RAM fault / Trojan activity? But in a way, also kind of fun.
I get all 5 leds on at 4.0Gig and at 3.8 i get 4 leds on. I get the lights flashing on and off like crazy on cold boot at 4.0 Gig so i am back at 3.8 at the min untill i can do a bit more tweaking but volts at 4.0 gig will run prime stable at 1.425 volts , i have been reducing it and priming it and i am suprised how low its going.Just need to get over this initial startup problem , i am on F5 bios ,is this any good or is this why i have this issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by EtherWind
Most people here seem to like BIOS F5G or F4J... But it wasn't until I switched over to F6A (and some other stuff) that my boot loop problems went away finally. There are much smarter people then I here though, so hopefully they can help you out. But you might want to try F5G and see what happens, as that seems to be the current flavour of choice (aside from the F4J holdouts).Quote:
Originally Posted by andyr(uk)
Is there any bios released, which reduced the voltage requirements? so far i heard new bios need little more voltage.
Ok i have pined down the problem i have with every bios higher then F6a.. semes theres a bug when i put qpi voltage higher then 1.30V (the last setting berfore 1.3V is 1.295V).
If i go one notch over 1.3V i get the boot issue. GB said they fixed it, but it seems they haven't.
Cause i can boot with 150mhz blck (3ghz) with 1.295V qpi voltage but can't with 1.315+.... duh.. GB get your stuff fixed -_-|.
Have you tried leaving your qpi as auto and just set your ram to 1.9v? You have to remember that for whatever reaseon the memory needs to be .5v higher than the qpi or it will become very unstable. If I have time tonight I will put f6c back on the xtreme and test this again. I have gone up to 2.0v on the ram and the qpi set to auto runs up to 1.5v's. mind you I don't think that this would be good long term though!Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornet331
Omg, my waterblock is on now .. what a diffrence.... geez.. now 211 bclk isnt even a problem anymore, without a glitch at 1.42vtt, now 19x211 @ 1.26 loaded... HT ON!
looks like a good cpu :) just had to tell, get max 60c loaded. be back later :)
I found F5g needed lower VCore and QPi/vtt voltages for the same overclock than subsequent bios releasesQuote:
Originally Posted by icecold316
And in Gigabyte Extreme what is the best bios till now ( where you need a lower Vcore and Vtt voltage for the same OC..)?Quote:
Originally Posted by Beef
Cumps,
FuRy
I've had pretty consistent performance and reliability with the F4J...but YMMV.Quote:
Originally Posted by FuryPT
Isn't the F6F good?Quote:
Originally Posted by ReverendMaynard
And the F5G?
Cumps,
FuRy
actually you got that wrong, the memory shouldn't excced the qpi voltage by 0.5V (thats why intel specs the max vdimm voltage with 1.85V, cause the max QPI voltage is 1.35V ;) )Quote:
Originally Posted by silverfox71
That could be the max but if you set your ram volts to 1.9v then start windows then open et6 you will see what I am talking about. the qpi will follow the ram volts by .5 or very close to it. I have now gone from f4j to f6c without any voltage diffences with my chip. no exceptional changes one way or another as in volts to obtain same fsb! I do beleive that each chip would have a preference to different volts in different places. I hope in the near future I can order yet another i7 and test this in more depth.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornet331
thats exactly what i said, at least gb was so smart that it made the auto voltage settings respect this limit.Quote:
Originally Posted by silverfox71
But my problem is that every bios after F6b dont starts with more then 1.3V without a oc recover. Its reproduceable and it'S not connected to the bclck or anything else. -> set 1.3V QPI voltage in bios, cold boot -> bam, oc recover.
I can even coldboot with 200mhz bclck speed with only 1.29V Qpi voltage (but its not enough to get into windows).
I'll wait now for final F6 maybe they fix it.
Woops!! my misunderstanding.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Hornet331
Is there a reason why people on this board are fans of the Gigabyte boards over the Asus P6T Deluxe boards?
I am not a fan of one brand over the other, the gigabyte board works fine for me (finally, lol). I'm sure I would of been happy with the P6T also. Truth be told, I went with GB because I liked the colour and HS designs. I'm not a fanboi to any brand.
It was very suspicious they announced a revision 2 of that board within weeks of the 1st's release.. something smellsQuote:
Originally Posted by davewolfs
Also I plugged my 920 in and set everything to auto and got 4GHz.. never had that type of experience with an Asus but it happens regularly with Giga for me.
Asus P6T and P6T Deluxe boards are unable to measure DIMM voltage.:rofl:
New BIOS released:
GA-EX58-Extreme - F6g
GA-EX58-UD5 - F6d
F6d is pretty bad, none of my F5 final settings worked and worst is i couldn't use Q-Flash, but had to reflash it through windows back to F5, i'll wait for F6 Final.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nipper575
After going through ~100 boards, i have built a preference for gigabyte boards. I must admit that most of the boards I used were under $200 and gigabyte has been nailing budget boards big time, especially the ud3 series (used 8 of these).
For cases cooler master is #1 for me. The new batch of cooler masters have a killer cable management design. when i am building pc for customers, i dont have time to drill holes and come of with schemes for cable management as I had to for most of the antecs.
Here is the bottom line, if I am building a PC for my self I usually just want the best in a certain budget disregarding the brand. But when i am building PCs for customers I want something that will require less time to assemble but still give same or better oc/temp results while keeping the price low. GB and CM thank you, you have made my life much easier. CHEERS.
Does the gigabyte board have any problems overclocking with 6 sticks of ram? In the anandtech review they mentioned that the Asus was much easier to overclock with 6 sticks of memory.
I have oc'd with six sticks no problem, even different speeds - 3 are 1066 and 3 are 2000mhz.Quote:
Originally Posted by davewolfs
Anybody else tried F6D on UD5 and had this bad results?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fafeifa
What is the best bios to use for UD5 that works with OC and S3 working?
Would like to know peoples oppinions.
Mark
hard to answer this question because its a personal pref. because the two products u are asking about aren't that diff.Quote:
Originally Posted by nipper575
after using the ud3p i am gb fan for life.
Quote:
Originally Posted by technut36
You quoted my same quote twice, lol?Quote:
Originally Posted by technut36
Yeah you are right, it's down to personal preference. My last 4 motherboards have all been GB boards and they have all been flawless. I have had a bit more trouble with this X58 board but it is now working to my satisfaction. As long as GB keep making quality products, I will keep buying them. My main point is that both ASUS and Gigabyte have supporters who do nothing but flame the other product, it's childish.
I'm working with a UD4P and i love it, check out my sig....
Freq : 4620 MHz (220 * 21)
.
I've had all kinds of boards over the years, and lately Gigabyte seems to be providing the best package to the enthusiast crowd with good solid boards, and lots of customer interaction & frequent updates. I think DFI was kind of that way for a while a few years back during the S754/939 era. I'm not sure how good they are now, after DFI-street blew up and Core Duo kicked AMD off their perch they lost me, they were too slow to get a good board out.Quote:
Originally Posted by davewolfs
The Asus boards I have had were all pretty good, but their customer service and website are just plain awful :down: Seriously, their site loads like its running on someone's cell phone and the battery is dying. Their service isn't any faster, you might as well get ready to order the next generation platform, because it will be released before you get your board back from them. However, if there's no problems, and there usually aren't with their boards, they will run for a long time. I guess its not so much that I don't like their products, I don't like their lack of customer service so I vote with my wallet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by systemviper
How would you stack it up against the Blood Rage? Very nice clocks, you're probably maxed out on the bclk but very impressive.
lol GB spits out bios versions every 3 days.... but damn... i would be happy if the only spit out once every month, if they dont always break stuff.... ah well tim to try F6g..Quote:
Originally Posted by stasio
I'm sticking with F5g after F6a wasn't very good for my UD5 - didn't like having to bump the voltages up so high for 21x190Quote:
Originally Posted by tipes
FAIL!Quote:
Originally Posted by ReverendMaynard
I got rid of the noise by disabling all the c1h features, the throttling and power saving stuff from the menu where you clock the cpu. :clap: