mmmm that's 1.8 in reality , better go up to 1.52 again... to have 1.53 real...Quote:
Originally Posted by NaMcO
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mmmm that's 1.8 in reality , better go up to 1.52 again... to have 1.53 real...Quote:
Originally Posted by NaMcO
Argh, are you absolutely sure? I'm lazy to pick up my multimeter, open case and measure again. But i'm gonna do it anyway, update in a few minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
EDIT: One of these days i'm gonna have a nice surprise... if my hand shakes for a bit :P
Anyway, voltage reads 1.55volts so it's 0,05 more than what i have set in the BIOS.
Which bios NaMco ? need to get my board out to measure it ... maybe when my WC stuff arrives...
Still on 0803, i didn't find a reason to go 1103. It seems pretty stable now, wanna try and lower some voltages a bit more, specially VCORE.
Argh...looks like I'm not going to figure out my problem before it's too late -_-. I wish I knew what to check, but this is kind of hard to troubleshoot since I don't know what, specifically, causes this sort of problem.
Rundown of the current condition-
1. In Teamspeak, I get some pops from time to time on the output
2. I *used* to get a problem where a bunch of sounds simultaneously would cause the sound to just turn into static and fade out, then fade back in as the sounds died down
3. I've had some stuttering that seemed to be related to the sound
Basically, I want to know if this is a problem from a defective board, or if it's probably driver related, because I need to return the board if it's defective. I just don't know what would be hardware-induced, though.
Besides that, it seems to run pretty well. Note that I have the sound going through the coax digital out of the board to an external converter, but I don't have this problem with the converter on anything else.
BIOS is 0704
I say put in a sound card and see if that resolves the issue if so then it is the sound built into the mb.Quote:
Originally Posted by intarweb
I am on my new board and boy does it seems 100% more stable. I really did a number on the last one. I am babying this one big time now. I am on 0605 right now though. I guess I will jump to the 1103 now.
I have a feeling I saw article saying ADI dropped support for integrated audio. So it may be final release :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud76
EDIT: Looks like the article has been updated after I've read it. Or then it was different article I read a while back
"More specifically, ADI will fulfill its commitments to current customer product launches and will continue providing software updates to sustain older platforms."
one article here:
http://techreport.com/discussions.x/15112
Quote:
Originally Posted by intarweb
I had this problem once before, it was not with this board I think it was with my DFI expert but I cant be sure as the board is the most changed thing inside my PC, it turned out to be my RAM, causing errors all over the place, are you overclocking ? and if so, give you RAM a very good stability check, even the bellow image doesnt satisfy me enough and I wont stop it till it reachs at least 6500% and even known it to pick up errors there, even 1 error is bad.
What chip can OC higher with this board Q9450 or Q6600?
Also, what type of ram do you recommend for this board, i need 4GB.
I guess they will clock to about the same speeds on average but the 9450 is about %5 faster clock for clock, I would get the 9450 but wait tell the new E0 (I think it is E0) stepping comes out. For ram I absolutely love this stuff....Quote:
Originally Posted by davewolfs
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231194
I keep finding ways to push my kit harder and harder and have never once been above 1.96v. Right now I am at 1133mhz PL8/Strong with SRC and MemOC Charger enabled.
So this seems to be 400 strap... You should try 333 strap just for test...Quote:
Originally Posted by PortCitySlim
333 would not let me run my ram at 1133mhz. I can choose from 1066 or 1133 with FSB strap on auto, not sure what strap let's me run 1066mhzQuote:
Originally Posted by Kartoff
Try to run the sound via normal way... if this works correct then, you could have the same issue as the P5B Dlx in the old days where the digital output was messed up... we swapped several boards then but it was a hardware problem not driver releated...Quote:
Originally Posted by intarweb
Hi! Did somebody try the new 1103 bios? I'm looking to update my bios from 0702 to x? ACtually i don't know which version to use. Tnx!
Greets!
quick question:
the only PCIE 16x slot is the blue one (PCIe 2.0 x16_1 slot), right?
the middle black one PCIe 2.0 x16_2 slot is only 8x
and the bottom Universal PCIe 2.0 x16_3 slot is only 4x
the bold names is how they are referred to in the manual.
that's damn confusing, why call a slot x16_2 or X16_3 when it's not x16? just because it's the same size as an x16? :shrug:
Ok, so ADI will continue prividing software updates.... but... on ADI web site I found no drivers and there is no the new codec in the SoundMax codec list.Quote:
Originally Posted by JHS
http://www.analog.com/en/audiovideo-...cts/index.html
:shakes:
Guys, 1103 just disappeared from ASUS' download site, just like 1003 did!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lewis23
Ok this is what I have to say about this BIOS. I got everything installed last night Vista, service pack 1, Drivers exc.. Everything was fine and dandy no issues. I then flashed to 1103 and I started hanging on my way into Windows.. I remebered seeing someone saying that they had popped out their other BIOS chip and flashed it to the newer one because they were having wierd issues. I did this and the flash ruined the chip inopperable.. I took that chip and stuck it in my drawer.....:down: I really don't know what the deal is here I'm guessing the bios file I got off the site was either corrupt or, my memory is going bad and when I downloaded it I corrupted it there or when I went to flash it my memory ruined it there... The thing is I know everything was fine and working up until that point and everything went south from there so... Oppinions please on this. I'm guessing there is a way for me to force flash the bios back on the :banana::banana::banana::banana:ed up one and the other one that is still usable enough to get into BIOS settings and what not. Its just as soon as I get to where it wants to load Windows boom it locks up. Am I right that I can run in dos and force flash the bad bios back while it is in the backup bios chip hole? It's going to be a fun night or me. Thanks guys for help here.
Most of the time when I first boot into windows it will hang for several minutes and then work fine, even when I restart it boots up with no problems. Only time it hangs is on the first boot after it has been shut off, what is the deal with that? This has always happened no matter what bios I had, 0704,0803 and 1103 all did the same thing with different overclock and settings.
Mine will not get into windows. I even was going to try to reload windows and when it went to detect the hard drives part the screen went all screwy and fuzzy and all particled and :banana::banana::banana::banana:. It has got to be the bios because that is when everything went down hill.Quote:
Originally Posted by PortCitySlim
What pisses me off is that I get a new fresh smelling board and it goes to :banana::banana::banana::banana: within an hour or three.....Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
Try downgrading your BIOS. I'm running 1103, but I liked most the 803 stability wise. I had to up some Voltages with the latest.Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
With 605 BIOS I can't boot into windows, must be a disk related issue, 803, 1102, 1103 boot fine here.
Dont wish to rub salt into any of you guys wounds, but this makes me so glad that I brought the P5Q-E version rather than the Deluxe, I didnt go for the Deluxe cos if the 16 phase power curcuit, we have done with 8 for all these years, who needs 16, and really you could say the 8 phase is really 12 as the NB and the memory have 2 seperate all of their own.
Not had any problems with any of the bioses on the E, although the new one 1003 is rock solid stable, and allows my same overclock with less voltage and slightly tighter timmings on my RAM.
My 0605 was perfect it was booting right into windows and everything. I was wondering if the big jump in BIOS revision screwed something up..Quote:
Originally Posted by NBF
By that same token, you could say the Deluxe has 20phase power.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
Can someone tell me if my motherboard looks bent? This is a pic of one of the northbridge cooling fins. I noticed that I had a really hard time installing my OCZ Vendetta 2 CPU cooler and think it might have warped my board a bit.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...h_e4bded73.jpg
Looks bent to me. So is there a way for me to force a flash onto the bad flashed one? By putting it back in the second bios slot and doing a command through DOS? I am scared to try to downgrade the bios that is left standing you know? I would rather try to bring the other one back to life then do that if possible..Quote:
Originally Posted by wongnog
Agggh that's what I thought. Should I get it RMA'd? It's within my 30 days through NCIX. I'm worried that the heatsink is not touching those chips anymore. I will be smarter next time and will NOT install a cpu heatsink with the motherboard still in the chassis ever again!Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
Yeah, I mentioned flashing back-up bios to OFFICIAL bios, not a beta, or newly released one.Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
BIOS chips can be hotflashed. You boot he board with the chip barely in the socket, when @ dos prompt, pull good chip, put in bad, and flash away.
But I don't recommend this if you have not done it before, you can easily screw things up worse.
And it actually sounds like you forgot tho change HDD set-up or something...are run in AHCI mode with IDE driver?
What's the point in your post ? 1103 has been working fab from day one on my rig and on many others... only bios 0901 needed some slight alterations to be stable... for the rest didn't have any issues with aplpha or beta biosses at all... and your phase claim is absolute :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
Highrollers issues could be due to a corrupt flash... an old resident setting, ram dying, whatever...
a reflash, pop the battery, might do the trick...
Your board bends due to the crap mount of the OCZ cooler with it's push pin design, the board is fine no need to RMA, if you use another cooler it will be straight again. This is why I prefer high end coolers as they have a back plate and prevent boards from bending...also the Dlx has backplates on the mosfets and co making it more rigid then the E version... but we seem to have crappy biosses lolQuote:
Originally Posted by wongnog
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaveca
I have the drives running in raid. I didn't change anything as far as that goes. I just set the raid up and ran it fine like I said up until the flash and boom everything went to hell. I don't have a chip puller, I don't know if that is what you mean by screwing it worse or not, by touching the pins while it is running is that why you say you can screw things up worse?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
That's what I'm thinking this might be memory related and some how the bios file got corrupted while downloading it or flashing it even. I will have to do more troubleshooting tonight. I will admit this is a rare case not something that hapens every day to people with this board. I am seriously thinking more and more this is memory related. This is the same thing that happened to my last board that I thought that I borked by shorting the fan plug on it and it started happening after pushing my shiznit hard so,, kind of my fault here probably..
truehighroller, have you tried turning the system off, pulling the power cord and then press the start button for a moment, and then remove the battery for 10-15 minutes. Then put it all back rogether and see what happens.
bios 1103 got bug ? stramp 400,333 is ok
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntgrd
I will tonight but, everything reset its settings back to default when I switched the bios chips so I don't know if it will help though. I am going to have fun with this tonight that is for sure. What about the thing the helpfull person said about hot swapping the bios chip and getting it to force flash back to whatever bios version. Should I be carefull not to touch the prongs when hot swapping them is that what you were talking about when you said that you can mess things up worse if you have not done it before or am I missing something else here?
Yes, you got it exactly. you can put a peice of tape on the chips to make this a non-issue...you jsut have to pull it out really quick, and really straight, same goes for plugging the old one back in.
I'm sure you set bios back to raid, but it sounds like this change isn't happening although you've told it to.
Intel techs(from speaking with them when I worked in pc store) suggest flashing bios with just one DIMM installed, in third slot. Maybe you want to do this as well.
you could have a bad driver in your OS isntall as well..have you tried safe mode?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaveca
Yah safe mode locks up to though. I actually get a little further with it though. I actually get into the windows desktop then boom "locks up again". The wierdest thing IMO was when I tried to reload Vista completely and it got to where it detects the harddrives and the screen went all screwy on me and everything locked up. It was almost as if some one took a broom and kind of swept the screen and everything was all streaky "I hope you can picture what I am saying here". I am about to leave work now and heading home to start trouble shooting some more but, if you have any other suggestions please tell them as I still have a backup PC at my house so , I will be checking back here shortly.
LOL, No point to it at all, your reading into it too much, its just a comment, in my country, we have this thing we call freedom of speech.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
Doh X_XQuote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
Maybe i should try to swap it out then. Kinda bummed; everything else works fine it seems.
Seanie - I'll look into ram problems, too. I don't think I had this problem with the P5Q-E I had before, which I believe has the same audio chipset and digital output config. That board just, instead, wasn't as stable otherwise. The Deluxe has been a lot more stable other than the sound thing. Unfortunately, I never did try teamspeak with the E, so I don't know if it had the pop/click thing. The other thing where I get overwhelmed in static hasn't returned since when it disappeared.
Thank you very much, you guys, for your time and help :)
Update on my situation here. I am sitting here watching my memory pass memtest86 v3.4 so I know it's not what caused the flash to go bad. I'm very disapointed and confused at this point. I thought it woud be the memory. So how do I flash this thing without the ezflash. I know commands in dos prompts and what not so I will be ok doing it. I just want to make sure no matter what the flash goes good..
hello,i am new to this forum and i have a question regarding the cpu temeprature, i have a E8400@3.6ghz that is cooled by an noctua u12p and the cpu temperatures maxes out a 56 degress celsius in orthos. is this usual temperatures or are they high?
I always use one Dimm, a complete default bios and just ram voltage set... I flash via EZ flash, if it reboots correctly I go into bios and set defaults again and reboot... and then start messing with my settings... I never use OC profiles on newer biosses and if the bios behaves weird I just pull the battery for 15 minutes and do a reflash... good luck mate...Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
Are those coretemps read out with 95°C Tjcasemax set ? or is it the CPU readout and not the cores ? and by the way Welcome to the forum...Quote:
Originally Posted by TO FAST
They are coretemp readouts with 95°C Tjcasemax. ai suite and bios shows around 12 degrees lower. this with stock vcore (1.2)Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
I will see what happens here I guess. I just hate to use the ezflash again because of what has happened so far here on me. I will try to pull the battery and see if that helps but, this is a new board so no overclocking yet on this bad boy at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
think they are prety normal for ya cooling mate... nothing to worry about... keep it under 65°C cores (my safe zone for 24/7) a better cooler might nible off a few degrees but don't expect miracles... you can try to reapply the paste, check ya IHS and cooler for flatness...Quote:
Originally Posted by TO FAST
Did you notice anything special about 1103? Like not needing higher voltages or in other words, for the same overclock being able to lower voltage a bit?
That's the only thing that would make me flash now :cool:
Not so sure it would be a good idea to use EZFlash to flash again, after all EZFlash is a bios based tool, and if your bios is as knackered as you say it is, then this tool could also be faulty and make matters worse.Quote:
Originally Posted by truehighroller
There is however another tool on the ASUS website which will allow you to boot and flash the bios the old fashion way, pure dos mode, its called Afudos, its in the bios section at the bottom of the page (linked below).
http://support.asus.com/download/dow...l=P5Q%20Deluxe
I thnk I might have found the Culprit. I think it might be a flaky Hard drive.. I am at the hard drive screen on one of them right now with two unplugged. The last one I had by itself locked it up. That is what I was wanting was that right there thank you. I will use that from now on because ezflash got my other chip.
Hello guys and gals! :D
Tomorrow I'll receive a brand new set of G.Skill DDR2 PC2-8800 PI 4GB (2x2GB). :cool:
I know that there are several other members of this forum with the same MB/RAM combination.
Could anybody kindly enlight me with some reasonable settings for these new sticks?
Leeghoofd... jVIDIA... and all the other members, may I bother you with my ignorance? :p:
As I've already mentioned in this thread, I never managed to overclock my actual Corsair memory (see signature) on the P5Q-Deluxe.
Anything beyond 1066MHz failed Prime blend.
If my memory serves me well 1080/1082 takes about 4h30m to fail.
I've also tested a Teamgroup XTreem Dark 1066MHz 4GB kit which IMHO is even worse, requiring more voltage in order to run stable with the same settings I'm now using with the Corsair kit.
I'm actually running my Gaming/OCCT (2h CPU + 2h RAM + 2h MIX in a row)/4x Super PI 32MB/Prime Stable (never tested more than 12h) system with these settings (BIOS 1103):
CPU Ratio Setting: 10
FSB Strap to Northbridge: AUTO
FSB Frequency: 400
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-1066
PCI-E Frequency: 102
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A2: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B2: AUTO
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
Timings: 5-5-5-15, tRFC 50, all other on AUTO
DRAM Static Read Control: Enabled
DRAM Read Training: Disabled
Mem. OC Charger: Enabled
AI Clock Twister: Moderate
AI Transaction Booster: Manual
Common Performance Level: 7
Pull-In of CHA PH1: Enabled
Pull-In of CHA PH2: Enabled
Pull-In of CHA PH3: Enabled
Pull-In of CHB PH1: Enabled
Pull-In of CHB PH2: Enabled
Pull-In of CHB PH2: Enabled
CPU Voltage: 1.41250v
CPU GTL (0/2): AUTO
CPU GTL (1/3): AUTO
CPU PLL: 1.56v
FSB Termination Voltage: 1.32v
DRAM Voltage: 2.02v
NB Voltage: 1.24v
Loadline Calibration: Enabled
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCI-E Spread Spectrum: Disabled
CPU Clock Skew: AUTO
NB Clock Skew: AUTO
CPU Margin Enhancement: Performance Mode
I think I'm going to start my tests with 1.82v DRAM voltage (due to the huge overvolt).
At this moment I'm praying for the new RAM to work at 1133MHz.
Any suggestions on this?
Thanks in advance for your precious help! :up:
Please cross your fingers and wish me luck with this new RAM, ok? ;)
Ok well I have a verdict it came down to the processor......:down: I swapped to my old q6600 and the install went smooth. I'm thinking of getting a dual core..
miguelca => My 24/7 settings :up:
It is normally to bent without a backplate... Thats the reason i dont use coolers without backplate...Quote:
Originally Posted by wongnog
Muito obrigado / Thanks a lot, jVIDIA! :up:
More suggestions are welcome. :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by jVIDIA
Agggh I need help people! All I did was change Performance Level from 08 to 05, but now my board won't post! After calling ASUS tech support, I tried the following procedures: 1) Unplug PSU. 2) Remove CMOS battery. 3) Switch clear CMOS jumper from pins 1+2 to 2+3 for 20 seconds. 4) Replace CMOS battery. 5) Switch clear CMOS jumper back to pins 1+2. 6) Plug power back in and turn on computer. Result is no post, no beeps, no display. I was then asked to remove memory dimms and try to power up and see if system would beep in error, but board still won't post. They said sorry you have to send the board in for repair or RMA. :( I'm so upset that changing one itty bitty bios setting would completely brick my board! Can anyone here help me please?
I had similar issues, which prompted me to swap to the back-up bios chip, by swapping the sockets they are in. Give that a try..if it doesn't work, then try overnight CMOS clear, and if THAT doesn't work, then RMA the bugger.
I don't think that's in the motherboard manual... :) Do you have some instructions you could provide me? Pictures if possible? And does this involve anything "scary" like soldering?Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaveca
Oh mother fracker. I think my P5Q-E is fried! I took it out to see about swapping the bios chips, but then noticed the EATX12V connector was burnt BLACK in places. I have an OCZ GameXstream 600W, they come with a 1 x 4+4-pin CPU connector, but I had only plugged 1 of the 4 pins in (I left the black caps on one half of the EATX12V connector). I really don't know if that was a mistake but honestly I was confused by the motherboard and my psu manual in this regard. Here is a picture of the damage:
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...h_IMG_0987.jpg http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...h_IMG_0988.jpg
OMG, bet your pissed, when you get a replacement board do not plug that PSU back into it, this is the 3rd time I have seen one of those OCZ modular PSU's do this to equiptment, the other two being me, where once one of my hard drives died, as you do I thought it a faulty hard drive, so I RMA'd it, it was a Seagate 7200.10, got my replacement back from seagate, installed and set windows up on it, 2 days later, both hard drives died at exactly the same time, they were not the only things that came out of my machine and got chucked across the room, I now have a coolermaster real power 850w PSU and never had any problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by wongnog
The culprit was my OCZ ModXtreme 850w PSU, it was only a few months old before it started killing things in my machine, this was about 6 months ago.
dang thanks for the info bro now im never going to buy a ocz powersupply lol but anyways what do you guys think about this?
i have ocz ddr2 1200 ram flexII and when i open up memset i get this (notice the memory info at the top)
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...m3r/memset.jpg
and when i click on the spd it gives me the correct info on my ram
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z.../memsetspd.jpg
but on cpu-z it doesnt give me anything
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...om3r/cpu-z.jpg
what could be the problem? is my memory taking a :banana::banana::banana::banana: or is it just not compatible with my board?
Oh greeaaaat good to hear. :( OCZ has been great to me for RMAs, especially because I live close to the Canadian head office. I bought the PSU almost two years ago tho so I don't know if it will still be under warranty. Right now the system is booting up fine, instead of plugging the 4-pin burnt connector I am using the other 4-pin connector into the spot originally covered by the black plug. Once I get a new board and PSU I will for sure plug all 8 in. In the meantime I'm dialing down my Q6600 overclock from 8x444 to 9x333!Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
You just need the more recent version of those programs, they are not reading the P45 chipset correctly. I`m using CPU-Z 1.46 right now and it is displaying the correct SPD info. I don`t use memset so can`t help you there.Quote:
Originally Posted by xTKxhom3r
ah ic i updated cpu-z and it shows the info now thanks! the memset i have is the most recent though dont know why it would show that weird stuff but oh well....anyone have the same memory i do? any stability issues? i seem to have alot with this memory
dang i knew i had problems with my ram but i didnt think they were this bad...i was at 1.3% and i already had 4 errors....
Quote:
Originally Posted by xTKxhom3r
RMA. I tested mine last night and they passed up to 60% and I stopped it because there obviously wasn't an issue with my memory. I did however fry my Q9450 :( . I lapped it is the bad thing. Otherwise I could have taken it up and swapped it out at Microcenter :((. Intel won't take it back lapped will they?
What?Quote:
Originally Posted by wongnog
Do you mean that the fried mobo is still working using the other 4pin that was covered? :eek:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud76
My thoughts exactly! These things must me tough motherf:bananal::bananal::bananal:ers
BTW, guys I need to know which setting helps more with RAM, the PL or the Twister...for example. I have had my ram at PL8/Strong and would like to know which setting would boost performance more PL7/Light, Lightest or PL8/Strongest?
I guess it depends on the rest of the system, it's a good test to do :)Quote:
Originally Posted by PortCitySlim
Best setting stable for 425fsb I could find for my system is PL7/Light/Pull-ins disabled with 1066 RAM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NBF
That is where I think I am at on my 1100 ram(1133mhz) but I am also running it with SRC enabled and MemOC Charger eabled, although I have not tested PL7/light yet. PL7/moderate almost passed a 2 hour OCCT ram test. I was going to either test PL8/Strongest or PL7/light next, I still have a bit of juice left to spare on my kit so if I needed to jack up the voltage a bit to get stable I could. I have no software to test how well my RAM is performing so I have no idea how much better my system is running everytime I lower the PL or increase the twister, would be nice if one of you expert guys could go into detail on what exactly each setting is doing and how they work with each other.
My thoughts too, I didnt think it worked using just the 4 pins that are covered, I thought you could only use the 4 open pins or 8 pin, but thats my next query, if you had the 8 pins available then why did you only use the 4 pin power connector to start with instead of all 8 ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud76
I am new to Asus boards. The BIOS has many features I am unfamiliar with. The CPU PLL voltage is one such setting. I think it is called the "phase lock loop" voltage. I have been experimenting with it and can conclude it has a major effect on stability at high cpu load. Can someone explain what this does.... and what is going to fry if I set it too high? What is my safe limit with a QX9650? Thanks in advance.
yes to my exact surprise that is what is happening! I have a picture of the CPU1 4 pin connector from my PSU, you can clearly see where it's fried the mobo. So I used the other CPU2 4 pin connector and plugged it in to the 4 pin part of the mobo that was covered. Needless to say once I get my new psu and mobo I will plug BOTH 4 pin connectors in!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud76
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...h_1d0fe347.jpg
I honestly didn't know that's what I was supposed to do, because my old board only had a 4 pin cpu connector on it. I thought that 4 of the 8 pins were closed for a reason, and I thought my PSU's 2x4-pin CPU plugs were meant for 2 physical CPUs. I should have known better since I have a quad core but I guess I didn't do enough research/reading before building my new system. :( :( :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
Never mind mate, now you know, glad your board is still working, hopefully with a bit of luck all you have blown is the rail on the PSU and not damaged the board, do you have another PSU you can try on it to see if that burnt 4 pin plug on the board is still working ?, im a bit worried for you that whoever you brought it from wont RMA it for you, the 2 reasons behing this is: 1 dont you have a beta bios on it, beats void the warranty and 2: the board damage wasnt caused by the board itself, it was caused by a 3rd party device, and this is clearly visible from the burn marks, but you can but ask.Quote:
Originally Posted by wongnog
I think 600w PSU maybe a little bit to low also for your system, especially with this board and a Quad, along with your memory etc dont forget that the Q6600 draws 95w from you PSU, before any overclocking, and with overclocking can draw as much as 175w alone, plus what the board, board features like onboard sound, RAID etc, Mem, Harddrives, GFX card, CD/DVD drives etc are pulling out of it, if you are constantly exceeding this 600w that your PSU supplies this could lead to the death of the PSU and as it dies it gives one last massive surge of power, KBOOM, burn marks appear.
There is a PSU calculator here, which will give you a rough idea of the wattage of PSU you should look into getting, to be safe I would recommend getting something slightly higher than what it recommends, just to compensate as it a little out of date, especially with higher drawing GFX cards now-a-days:
http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/
you have suprised alot of guys in this forum, by showing us that you can just use the covered 4 pins on there own, I dont think any of us was aware of this, I know I wasnt, and probably wouldnt of tried or tested it either.
Thanks for the link, I filled it out and even overestimated some items. It reported a recommend psu of 434 w (that's for 20% capacitor aging). So hopefully a replacement 600 w GameXStream should be okay?Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanie's Show
Lucky for me I am picking up a new PSU from OCZ today, and NCIX is shipping me a new P5Q-E for free. Ground shipping though so it'll take a few days to get here... but in the mean time I could try plugging in the new psu into the burnt out 4-pin cpu plug and see if it posts or not. But it sounds like a bit of a risky experiment don't you think? I just picture those pins being fried and trying to plug power into it causing smoke and fire! :eek:
FIRE YAH YAH FIRE FIREQuote:
Originally Posted by wongnog
Leeghoofd, can you help me out?
E8400, OCZ PC-8000
Working perfect with the following settings (3.8GHz), but I want to hit the magic 4GHz :D
By only upping the FSB to 445 and 1.375v core, I can boot, but get Orthos failures within minutes :mad:
500x8.0 results are the same, the memory isn't the bottleneck (tested it @500MHz)
What other setting could I try?
CPU Ratio Setting: AUTO
FSB Strap to Northbridge: AUTO
FSB Frequency: 423
PCI-E Frequency: 101
FSB Strap To North Bridge: AUTO
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-847
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel A2: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B1: AUTO
DRAM CLK Skew on Channel B2: AUTO
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
Timings: 5-5-5-15, tRFC 55, all other on AUTO
DRAM Static Read Control: AUTO
DRAM Read Training: AUTO
Mem. OC Charger: AUTO
AI Clock Twister: AUTO
AI Transaction Booster: AUTO
CPU Voltage: 1.35000v
CPU GTL (0/2): AUTO
CPU GTL (1/3): AUTO
CPU PLL: AUTO
FSB Termination Voltage: 1.20v
DRAM Voltage: 1.94v
NB Voltage: 1.26v
Loadline Calibration: Disabled
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCI-E Spread Spectrum: Disabled
CPU Clock Skew: AUTO
NB Clock Skew: AUTO
If you want to seriously damage or totally kill your brand new PSU... GO FOR IT! :ROTF:
Now talking serious, don't do that wongnog.
Just the thought of it gives me goosebumps! :eek:
Please show some respect for your hardware, ok? ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wongnog
heheh okay I didn't really think it was a good idea either. I just can't believe how many times I've had to taken my P5Q-E in and out of my case. So aggravating! I finally bought a magnetized philips screwdriver to help me with those tiny motherboard screws in hard to reach places.Quote:
Originally Posted by miguelca
Was the 1103 bios removed from Asus site ? Is it true ? :(
edit: forget it ... it is still there :D
Good luck !Quote:
Originally Posted by mdcobra
try just to enable load line calibration... set it at 1.375 then try go lower is stable... or leave it disabled and try 1.425, go lower from there... never leave CPU PLL at auto, the value is way too high !!!
Hi, sorry to jump in mid point. Am going to be purchasing this board once its sub £100. Have found some sites carry an s/l version, is this jsut marketing or such? I have found quite a few sites offering a product with s/l after it. Here is an example:
http://www.ginger6.com/advanced_sear...rds=p5q+deluxe
Its a nice price if indeed it is no different to the normal wording of the same board.
Just buy the E version jarhead, performs as good and is cheaper... no idea what S/L could mean... really wonder for the warranty , it's 2 year via Ginger6 and the 3rd year via Asus then ?
600fsb bios 1103,601fsb no go:confused:
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=399827
I'm planning on getting this board in a week or so but I have a question.
I don't like having settings on auto, is it possible to put voltages on the lowest possible setting and still run things stable, like I can on my IP35 Pro? On stock speeds ofc.
there are some voltage "bugs" on these boards, all documented and confirmed earlier in this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by RAdoxx
Don't put PLL, NB, FSB Term voltage at the lowest RAdoxx... but one setting higher : eg CPU PLL lowest is 1.5 (but overvolts to 1.75) set 1.52 then... also take note that the dimm overvolts with about 0.08 so 2.0 volt in bios is close to 2.1 in reality (don't smoke ya rams )
Just a confirmation please:
4096MB-Kit OCZ PC2-8500 Platinum, CL5. Defective?
The problem and my test:
Unfortunately I believe that one of the two modules (2x2GB) is defective.
Tested with the last version of MEMTEST86+ v2.01; the Kit produced some errors so I tried to test each dimm module separately.
The DIMM module marked SN :xxx-1 is not working properly at the nominal frequency of 1066 Mhz (default), producing errors from the test number 5.
So, I tried to repeat continually test number 5: sometimes this dimm successfully concludes only the first pass (in about 2 minutes and 30 seconds), but as early as the second or third pass it produces some errors.
The other dimm module marked SN: xxx-2 work correctly and pass several passes regularly of the test number 5 without errors.
Of course, I testet the two dimm in the same memory slot and with the same settings.
It can be only a problem related to a defective dimm?
You seem to have one bad dimm yes cloud... you can also try HCI memtest in windows for a second opinion... did you have irregular behaviour with ya board ?
Leave DRAM Frequency on AUTO, if I set the same frequency manually it doesn't post over 1000 Mhz.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
On AUTO the mobo boot fine, maybe a bios bug (1103)...:confused:
I tried the xxx-2 dimm at about 1084 Mhz and pass the test 5, the -1 dimm start to make errors from 1061Mhz.
Same settings, unplugged one dimm and replaced with the other.
I have no installed OS yet, I was testing if all was good, all material is just arrived. :(
RMA time?
Sounds complicated :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
How about the auto settings then, are they alright or will they give everything just a tad more voltage than necessary?
I hate to respond to my own thread, but was hoping people could at least confirm that they are able to wake their P5Q Dlx from vista s3 sleep? Or am I the only one with this problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by bondisdead
Posting this in case anyone else encounters it...
If you use an add-on HD controller card and the Intel controller does not display on boot, and the HDs and/or arrays on the Intel controller "disappear", try disabling INT13 on the add-on card if the option is available.
I'm using a Highpoint 2310 PCI-E card and had to disable INT13 using the hptflash.exe Highpoint bios flash prog.
Also using a Promise SATA300 TX4 PCI controller on this board, and the detect-speed for the drives hung off that controller is very slow compared to other boards I use this same type of card on. I also could not use more than one of these cards connected to the mobo. Using two cards with 6 or more drives hung off them results in arrays on the Intel controller not being detected.
What's actual vPLL if it's set to AUTO? Does it default to 1.5 actual or overvolt as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
read previous pages you will get the answer to your own question.
Does anyone have problems with ainap ? I can turn it on but when i turn it off , it loads the desktop but i get a bsod after 2-3seconds ? Any suggestions ?
uninstall it, and the rest of the Asus software, reboot, problem is now fixed :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by mathewgx
seriously, Asus software is junk, dont bother using it :down:
Quote:
Originally Posted by RAdoxx
AUTO overvolts lads on PLL, FSB Term and NB voltage... it's the same voltage as when you put the lowest setting in the bios...so set one setting higher plz...Quote:
Originally Posted by scottk
http://users.pandora.be/OAP/P5QDlx/p...eadingscl8.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThugsRook
I agree , but it is a solution for decreasing power usage , the only one i know. I could use epu 6 engine , but unfortunately it works only when not overclocking.
actually, the bios' AUTO AI OVERCLOCKING itself does a fair amount of variable rate clocking/volting if ya wanted to go that way. even at a minimum you could enable C1E to auto lower your multiplier.Quote:
Originally Posted by mathewgx
:shrug:
It is documented in this thread somewhere, but I dont expect anyone to go through 93 pages of posts looking for it, but below is a test run by jVIDIA on the volatges manually set to minimum, or on auto, this is why everyone is saying set it manually but at least 1 setting higher than the minimum, cos the PLL on its own on Auto or set to 1.50v in the bios wacks a massive 1.82v though. :smoke:Quote:
Originally Posted by scottk
jVIDIA voltage readings:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=951