yea, i already did the heatpipe mod. A fan may be necessary. I dropped the Vcore down a hair and continue to test. So far PWM is at 80C...
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yea, i already did the heatpipe mod. A fan may be necessary. I dropped the Vcore down a hair and continue to test. So far PWM is at 80C...
curious..what kind of paste did you use on the PWM part of the heatsink?...did you just re-use the plastic push clip with spring tension or did you get the stated bolts and nuts?
i got the bolts, but reused the thermal pad for the PWM part. It seemed like it would be a bit messy to have thermal paste all over them. My biggest concern is really the vDroop. Going from 1.47 to 1.40 is just nuts. Ive never seen a board droop THAT badly. Im considering looking at another board for that reason alone.
i would be concerned with 80C PWM temp...the TIM pad is not doing its job very well...have you put a fan on the PWM heatsink?
are you measuring it with a DMM...or...are you looking at what is set in the bios or are you reading what Uguru in windows desktop tells you when it is under a load?...i presume the above stated droop is under a load, correct?
what is your idle Vcore from Uguru and also from CPuz 1.44.1 (do not have uguru and Cpuz opend at the same time)
agree!:up:
do the vdroop mod, what I set in bios = actual idle and load volts measured via dmm within .001 to .004v
yea, its under load with dual orthos. If set to 1.5v in the bios it idles at about 1.47v in windows according to CPUz and HW Monitor. Both also show that when put under dual orthos the vCore drops to 1.4v and sometimes 1.39v. I dropped my OC down because of it to 3.3Ghz and temps have dropped a little and its 10 hours orthos stable. Im just a little annoyed that you have to give it so much vcore just so it doesnt bottom out under load. Because of the such bad droop you have to set your vCore .07v higher at idle than you should. Ive never done any soldering on electronics like this so I think the vdroop mod would be little risky.
unless you are playing heavy cpu demanding games, there is no need to keep your vcore elevated for orthos type running.
i use wPrime 1024M stability bench to find the everyday vcore to do my daily chores....that vcore will be less than needed to support Prime 95, Orthos or OCCT benching.
as far vdroop, it is built into Intel's design for motherboards adorning their logo...some mobo makers add an additional circuit to compensate for vdroop...but...that increases the cost of the board.
Here is a new temp program for intel core processors: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=179044
unclewebb wrote the program and I think he did a very good job.
will not work in vista64 even with disabling driver signature enforcement.
Yea, thats too bad. Maybe there will be a 64 bit driver for it in the near future for the 64 bit users.
Abit IP35 Pro audio question - I'm trying to record "internally". In other words, trying to record audio (using Adobe Audition) from a web site. The problem is that I only see 3 audio recording devices - Mic, Digital line in, and Analog lines in. Is there a way to set it to record from the internal source? Thanks.
when replacing the thermal pads on the heatsinks, the center heatsink has a grey extra pad going around the outer part of the chip, should I replace that as well and use AS ceramique on it? Or should I leave that, and only use ceramique on the center of the chip?
Ron 61
[off]can you host the "realtemp.zip" somewhere?[/off]
it is right here: https://home.comcast.net/~captain-is...d/realtemp.zip
I just did the heatpipe mod this weekend, and I left the padding on that goes around the outside of the PWM. Seems like it was there the even out the base with the bottom of the chip. Not sure. My temps went down a bit with the mod - probably 7 degrees C? Didn't use nylon locking nutz - hope that won't be a problem. Boy, it was tough getting those northbridge bolts threaded!
So here is an annoying quirk. It seems that after bringing Vista 64 out of sleep, the CPU fan header runs my fan at full 12V speed regardless of the uGuru settings (I have it set to run at 30% for below 40C and 100% at 55C).
If I turn off the computer, turn off the power supply for a few seconds, then turn it all back on, the problem goes away and the fan works correctly until I put it to sleep again. Any fixes? I am running BIOS 14. Must be some sort of BIOS bug, no?
you must mean the NB heatsink, which has that white square pad surrounding the chipset...i took mine off so i could use 400 or 600 paper to finish bottom of the NB heatsink...then, i put electrical tape over the electrical contacts protruding up around the chipset to protect them from being grounded (shorted) by the heatsink.
Hey guys and girls,
I could not come up with any answers this weekend to this problem and was hoping some of the folks on this board can help out. My computers main use is a home theatre pc. On the weekend, I got a great deal on two 5.1 surround systems (spherex xbox 5.1 system). The inputs can either be optical or digital coax for full surround.
Here is my problem, I am using the optical s/pdif out for the setup in my living room where one of the 5.1 systems is and it's working great. My other 5.1 system is for the computer/gaming room. Is there anyway to hook up the 2nd 5.1 system in my computer room? I am thinking I need some type of analog (from the ip35's 7.1 outputs) to s/pdif dongle/splitter/adaptor or something?? Any ideas? Here is a picture of what I have to work with on the sound system.
JJ
This program is pretty cool... reports my E8400 at 4GHz as 35c, which I think is more accurate than 45c considering the ZeroTherm NV120 I have on it. The XSBench is also pretty nifty :) Would be neat if there was also a "submit" button to upload it to a server for comparisons