i had to bend the NB sink/pipes back a bit so it doesnt push on the 120. VERY tight....but it "just" worked.
It "just" worked? I'd make sure those pipes and the NB sink aren't getting any friction against that cooler.
I'm building a new system, but I cannot find any DFI x38-t2r's in stock!
Should I buy the ut p35-t2r instead. Will I see any better overclocking with the x38 for the e8400, or will the p35-t2r suffice?
I'm having trouble every time i completely disharge power from electricity computer refuses to boot it just keep power on n off repeatly,i have to clear cmos to load last working bios config.But after if i keep the eletricity on it have no booting problenm,anybody know the solution?.So it only occur if i competey cut power to my comp.
more will be in this week at motherboard pro but imo i would get in on the pre order if you really want one last time they went as fast as they got them
NCIXUS has them in stock, but they're a little on the pricey side.
http://www.ncixus.com/products/27482...20X38-T2R/DFI/
Thanks, i'll check on ncixus.
Newegg actually wiped the listing off their site, its a "deactivated item".
You surely got a large exhaust on top of your case haha.
I not sure whether can I mount it horizontally or not, my case doesn't have that large exhause on top. Can only depend on the PSU exhaust.
Corsair hx620w ran out of stock everywhere, If I get PC&C then no exhaust on top already.
How you gonna mount HR-05 SLI anyway? After you mount please post a photo :yepp:
So it's possible to use the HR-05 SLI for the NB??
for someone mine wont oc anymore pass what i saved on the cmos about a month ago
no matter how much voltage i give it, it wont oc even 1mhz extra,
has anyone else experience this?
Yes, for some reason or "Current" config changes the board looses the ability to maintain the OC. Dunno why but that's that. I have to clear CMOS every weak to get it to run my OC without giving more volts.
Also the board tends to lock on Vcore or Overvolt Vcore after some days in that OC...
So much for almost $300...
what bios are you guys using?
verry weird i had ram set @ 333/667 strap @ 1200mhz i lowered it to 333/600 strap @ 1000mhz n not stable i only dropped volts from 2.11v to 2.09v
its not weird, the board has gimpy dividers.
Which bios, i assume you meant 266/666 4:5 not 333/600 ??? 4:5 operates on 266 fsb strap which is tighter than 2:3 and 5:6. Prior to 12/28 beta bios 4:5 and 5:8 and 3:5 was very unstable but 12/28 beta bios fixed 4:5 and 5:8 divider so that 4:5 is working up to ~440FSB http://i4memory.com/showthread.php?p=82600#post82600
I am now using 1/11 official bios and managed with my E8500 on 4:5 (266/666) divider to around 480FSB for 600mhz 5-5-5-x which needed more vdimm than on say 2:3 or 5:6 divider ~0.05-0.10v more vdimm.
If you're using 4x1GB and 4:5 divider then I can imagine how much stress is on NB with how tightly set that strap is.
DFI said 4:5 and 3:5 divider stability issues aren't just on DFI X38 but exist on other brand X38 chipset boards too apparently i.e. Asus X38. I know Gigabyte X38-DQ6 had similar issue with several dividers messed up.
Strange my Asus P35 chipset boards didn't have such issue on 4:5.
fyi motherboard pro has some of these in stock get them fast i think there is only 3 left..
so whats the best choice for this mobo.. 4 x 1gb or 2 x 2gb sticks?? im about to get a pair of 2gb sticks.. but im wondering if 4 x 1gb will oc better on this mobo.. need to decide asap.. thanks
They also have the Dk version now $214:
http://us.dfi.com.tw/Product/xx_prod...D=5855&SITE=US
http://www.motherboardpro.com/DFI-LA...ail-p-531.html
dfi x38 can't select straps themselves - what divider you use determines the strap you use.. not sure which one is used at 1:1 sounds like 266FSB strap ???
what settings you using ? template at http://i4memory.com/showthread.php?p=86150#post86150
if you set clock fine delay manually on other dividers, you need to use different clock fine delay values when you change dividers. So set them all to current value for clock fine delay, and then power down system/power off psu. Then turn back on and boot up at 1:1 will have different clock fine delay current values. Start at a lower stable 1:1 clock i.e. 480FSB or 490FSB and take notes of the current values as per http://i4memory.com/showthread.php?t=4743.
I find with E8xxx on DFI X38 at higher FSB and mem clocks, you need to be tuning the clock fine delay values in conjunction with tuning GTL ref volt values + CPU VTT. Errors and/or freezes in memtest86+ v2.00 when using E8xxx can be related to either or both incorrect clock fine delay values and/or incorrect GTL Ref + CPU VTT combinations.
Very tricky with E8xxx on DFI X38 to get fully stable at certain FSB/Mem combinations. Some combinations I luckily dialled in right settings for stability some combinations tried days to get right with no improvement heh.
It's a fine art hehe
Clock fine delay is very powerfull ... but it wasnt much rewarding for me, I guess I didnt use it properly ... nvmd,
Which strap(s) are the most stable ones and best for highest FSB?
i just bent the pipe of the small NB heatsink, its doable. Its only a matter of 1/3 of an inch or so and the pipe is not that stiff. So you can move the whole NB heasink a bit back, carefully. Didnt have to bend any fins on the NB or the 120.
http://www.gamerzzz.de/11.jpg
http://www.gamerzzz.de/22.jpg
I've got a problem with my Cooler Noctua - it is impossible to install it, the same with AC Freezer 7 Pro.Heatsink of NB is too big, so I just instaled Noctua this way:
Is this ok?
Yes, it should be fine to install that way, but people usually have the fan pushing the air through the heatsink. It looks like you have yours pulling the air through.
i sometimes wonder if i had better temps if i use my old XP-120 instead (with the fitting retention part)....since my case has a side vent. Then the CPU fan could draw in air right off the side vent.
I have three 120mm fans sucking cool air in from the top across the CPU heatsink. That way I can swap the fans to the outside of the case and throw the radiator on top of them when I get the waterblocks out. :D
Does anyone know how the Zalman 9500LED will fit on this mobo with that NB heatsink? i mean i've searched then entire thread with no success.
Fyi distance from center of CPU to edge of the 9500 is 53mm if anyone can measure it for me. ;)
Thanks alot! Now, do you think that i could fit a fan on there? or am i screwed?
zsamz I see you also have an antec 900.
I just ordered the board and a 120 extreme.
can you put a fan on the NB and the bottom of the 120 facing up ?
any room for the side case fan with the 120 in this direction?
got a pic LOL
I thought the middle slot was 4x ?
Which is considered the higher end board? the UT or LT?
i just moved my 8800 today one lower from PCIE1 to PCIE3 - gives me much more airflow from the intake fan. Otherwise the huge card literally blocks air to the CPU where its mostly needed (My case is weird)
the x38 has two PCIE slots with both x16 PCIE speed - so it doesnt matter. In addition i now have room for a 6cm fan on the NB heatsink, earlier the card was so close to the NB heatsink there was noway to put a fan there, not with the X-120 mounted vertically.
I need some advice real quick.
I have a lt on hold and was finishing the order and 2 friends said NO get the Asus Maximus Formula.
I have an E8400 and wanted to get 4G everyday.
They said both boards are more than capable but you need to get the Asus because its an easier oc board. DFI settings are a pain.
True??
what do I get.... H E L P
how do you set tREF in the bios? or can it only be done by memset? and if so I guess you can´t use memtest to test stability sence with memset the settings aren´t applied before windows boot.
uh..AFAIK memset sets those in real time also right in windows.
thanks!!! ive been looking for something like that
my fsb is 442, and my strap is 333/800 , cpu multi at x8 ... so that gives 3.537ghz cpu and 1061mhz memory... i keep my memory at 5-5-5-18 and everything in the clock fine delay as more aggressive , then set the dividers to keep the ram at slightly above 1000mhz ... is there a better way?
its a try and error thing, depending how much your hardware can handle. Some dividers my board here doesnt like at all. I am also at 3537 right now, anything higher and i might need WAY more volts. Ram doesnt go too high either here.
Very often my comp don't wanna start after night - fans spining and that's all - there is no signal, nothing, I have to restet comp and then it's working fine.
I had the same on Abit IP35.
Any ideas?
i know you guys have run benchmarks and all so i want to ask you...
what gives better performance, tight ram timings and low fsb or dividers, or high memory mhz with loose timings?
Do you mean mem freq? because FSB and Timings are unrelated. The optimal thing is to have high freq with low timings, but at a certain point if your freq goes high and the timings follow, it doesnt improve performance. The key here is a correct balance between the two and you need to find that by raising the mem freq and seeing where you start to lose performance. Then work down from that mem freq. and work on your timings. ;)
Is this after a total shutdown? Standby? Hibernate?
Have you tried another PSU and seen how that psu reacts to the same situation? I find it near impossible to believe that two boards from two different manufacturers and different chipsets could have the exact same problem. :)
there was a very good comparison on some site..i think it was on an OCZ site where they did such comparisons.
As far as i remember...CPU speed, then mem speed
Some very few theoretical applications preferred a litle lower mem speeds but at tight timings, but for overall and real life performance more mem speed is better even at lose timings - so 500 mhz at 5.5.5.15 would be better than 440 4.4.4.12 (just as an example)
My e8400 Q750A031 seems to be a bad batch :mad:
But it´s always core #0 that is unstable and core #1 that is stable. So could the GTL REF voltages help core #1 or some other settings?
1/11 Bios Changes are in RED and the rest are default
Any suggestions are welcomeCode:PC Health Status
Adjust CPU Temp: +15 and it´s still ~3 degrees under coretemp during load
CPU Feature
- Thermal Management Control: Disabled
- PPM(EIST) Mode: Disabled
- Limit CPUID MaxVal: Disabled
- CIE Function: Disabled
- Execute Disable Bit: Disabled
- Virtualization Technology: Disabled
- Core Multi-Processing: Enabled none of the others is needed right?
Exist Setup Shutdown: Mode 2
Shutdown after AC Loss: Disabled
CLOCK VC0 divider: AUTO
CPU Clock Ratio Unlock: Enabled
CPU Clock Ratio: 9x
- Target CPU Clock: 3996
CPU N/2 Ratio: Enabled
CPU Clock: 444
Boot Up Clock: AUTO
DRAM Speed: 333/667
- Target DRAM Speed: 889
PCIE Clock: 100mhz
PCIE Slot Config: 1X 1X
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum: Disabled
SATA Spread Spectrum: Disabled
Voltage Settings
CPU VID Control: 1.4375v CPU-Z 1.456V No more is suggested for 24/7 am I right?
CPU VID Special Add: AUTO
DRAM Voltage Control: 2.10v
SB Core/CPU PLL Voltage: 1.51
NB Core Voltage: 1.504
CPU VTT Voltage: 1.100
Vcore Droop Control: Enabled
Clockgen Voltage Control: 3.45v
GTL+ Buffers Strength: Strong
Host Slew Rate: Weak
GTL REF Voltage Control: Disable
x CPU GTL1/3 REF Volt: 110
x CPU GTL 0/2 REF Volt: 110
x North Bridge GTL REF Volt: 110
DRAM Timing
- Enhance Data transmitting:
- Enhance Addressing:
- T2 Dispatch: Enabled
Clock Setting Fine Delay
Ch1 Clock Crossing Setting: AUTO
- DIMM 1 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 2 Clock fine delay: Curren
- DIMM 1 Control fine delay: Current
- DIMM 2 Control fine delay: Current
- Ch 1 Command fine delay: Current
Ch2 Clock Crossing Setting: AUTO
- DIMM 3 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 4 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 3 Control fine delay: Current
- DIMM 4 Control fine delay: Current
- Ch 2 Command fine delay: Current
Ch1Ch2 CommonClock Setting: AUTO
Ch1 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 Command to CS Delay: Auto
Ch2 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 Command to CS Delay: Auto (where cpuz sees 1T or 2T SETTING)
CAS Latency Time (tCL): 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD): 5
RAS# Precharge (tRP): 5
Precharge Delay (tRAS): 18
All Precharge to Act: AUTO
REF to ACT Delay (tRFC): 54 as suggested by OCZ for my memory
Performance LVL (Read Delay) (tRD): AUTO
Read delay phase adjust: Enter
Ch1 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 1 Phase 0 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 1 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 2 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 3 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 4 Pull-In: AUTO
Ch2 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 2 Phase 0 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 1 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 2 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 3 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 4 Pull-In: Auto
MCH ODT Latency: AUTO
Write to PRE Delay (tWR): AUTO
Rank Write to Read (tWTR): AUTO
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD): 4
Read to Write Delay (tRDWR): AUTO
Ranks Write to Write (tWRWR): AUTO
Ranks Read to Read (tRDRD): AUTO
Ranks Write to Read (tWRRD): AUTO
Read CAS# Precharge (tRTP): 4
ALL PRE to Refresh: AUTO
edit: my signature doesn´t seem to show up for some reason so here are the specs
E8400 Q750A031
DFI Lanparty LT X38-T2R
4GB OCZ DDR2-1000 XTC Platinum
BFG GeForce 8800GTS OC 512MB
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750W Quad
Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme
Thermalright HR-03 GT
well my board is only happiest when on 69%gtl settings
n loves my ballistix over 1200mhz 2.09v
she even loves 500fsb
By that do you mean you use 69 on all three settings? Iow
x CPU GTL1/3 REF Volt: 69
x CPU GTL 0/2 REF Volt: 69
x North Bridge GTL REF Volt: 69
I can get fully Orthos stable with 1.4V at 3906 (9x434) (1:1) but need to bump it to 1.4375V if I want to run 5:6 (1042). So do you think GTL settings could get me to 4GHz?
edit: your sig says e6850 or doesn´t that make a diffrence? can the new 45nm cpu:s take the same gtl voltages?
no thats not the same as teh % the gtl on this board is a number so u have to find 69% on your own, so if ur at 1.4V then u need 96/94 for the cpu gtl
my first inclination is the same as "Russian", your PSU might be the culprit...BUT...i did have cold and warm post problems on this board...it was intermittent...a guy suggested increasing the NB voltage and when i put it up in the 1.65v range it stopped and posted everytime...just a suggestion.
OK, guys, I finally got around to installing the mobo and CPU this weekend. Decided to add Vista to the mix as well, but I have a small problem. I can't get the audio driver to load. The Device Manager shows HDMI audio, which is the one from the 3870X2. When I manually try to install the audio drivers, I get the yellow exclamation mark in the Device Manager and it says the device cannot start. If I click on "find solutions," nothing comes up.
I tried to install from the driver CD and the DL file on the DFI website. I get 6 or 8 entries to choose from when I install the device manually. Anybody else have this?? :confused:
I read through quite a few pages of posts so I am sure this has probably been answered but I am unable to find it. Does this board handle 4x2GB of PC8000 memory pretty well? Also does it oc the Q6600 pretty good? I have ordered my 3780 X2 video card and I am searching for an x38 mobo that will be able to do crossfireX after the summer. I want to get a Q9550 in a couple of months so I have been looking at this mobo and the dfi Dart X38 mobo.
I have the cpu vcore set to 1.325 in bios. In windows it shows 1.36. is this normal for this board? I have been trying to find the read points to check it with a dmm. thanks in advance for any help.
I can't help you with the read points, but that's how my board does with vcore.
now that im thinking clearly, i realized what i was meaning to ask was wether i should try to run at the tighter straps? like the 4:5 is hard to get with high fsb, does that translate to higher real world performance per mhz? the strap i am running now is 5:6, should i try 4:5 and loosen my ram timings to make them run at 1100+ mhz...
further questions, how much attention should i be paying to the clock fine delay settings or any of the other stuff other than the 5-5-5-18 which is how my ram is rated, will they make or break a mhz hike?
dont know if this has been covered or not , but this thread is way to long for me to check.
just wanted to know if the X38-T2R has any issues with crucial ballistix 1066 ? its not listed as compatible ram on there site .im about to order this board tonight.
thanks adya
Did enybody tried instal Noctua NH U12P on it?
I've got one, but had it installed on my other board (Asus P5W DH Deluxe). On that board the heatsink was right up against my top case fans (modded Lian Li PC-A10B), and this board has the CPU socket higher up the mobo that that one. The fan clips stuck higher up that the edge of the board, too, so I had to use zip ties to hold the fan on top. If I had to put it in on this board, it would probably go horizontally.
I've got Thermaltake Armor, so it is bigger then yours PC Case.
Tell me please it would fit vertically - the NB heatsink is it not too high?
I'm not going to tell you it's not compatible but I did buy them 1 month ago and they worked great for about 1 week @ 1080 5.5.5.15 and about 2.2v and after they just remain unstable so be aware, since the new ballistix are not like the old ones diferent chips on them :( I sold mine to a friend who want OC them @ all :) but I wish I could buy the old one they work very well on our board as I know from others :D
Good Luck Adya :)
Is NB Heatsink on DFI X38 LT the same as on DFI P35 LT?
Has anyone achieved 500mhz fsb with quad?Or nearly the same?
damn .thats not what i wanted to hear. i already purchase this board.
and my crucial tracers are new.
damn now im worried.
these are the modules i bought-pc2-8500CL5 BL12864AL 1065.16fd5
not sure if those last numbers mean much.
but if anyone can confirm wether these overclock fine on this board ,id be very happy to hear from u.
* what do u mean double sided/single sided? how do i know what mine are? ive never heard of that.
thanks adya
man ur really scareing me here ! i had a look its not easy as they have covers on both sides.
they basically have 3 layers like a sandwich. the pcb in the middle from above view seems to have circuitry and what look like chips to me on both sides. is there an easier way to tell? i thought everyone on here used crucial b. c5 i thought the c5 was good?
ok are u talking about banking configuration?
this is what ive found-
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...id=61&Itemid=1
on the chart it has 12864AA 1065 mine are the same except there AL instead of AA ,im wondering if thats a typo on that chart actually.
but on that chart all the 128's are dual banking which means mine probably are as well.
i hope ur talking about banking config . lol
then look's like you got the right one's :D
those are mine and the wrong one's http://img205.imageshack.us/my.php?i...racer_6129.jpg
compare to those the right ones
http://shrani.si/?29/Oh/1GF0dl8H/dsc05942.jpg
the heatspreader says it already.
good luck with it :)
ok thanks for the help i appreciate it. i can still cancel my order and i have to decide now if ill do that. dont want to its the best x38 board around at the moment.
but that first image of the "BAD" modules is BL12864AL1065.8FE5 mine are very similar which worries me.
mine are BL12864AL 1065.16fd5 ive got a feeling mine are as bad as ur first ones and probably not compatible with this board.
i cant read what ur second modules are , to blurry. i think it says 16Fd3? mine are 16fd5
why do they make so many ? bastards its so uneccesary. i doubt ill buy crucials again.this is ridiculas it shouldnt be so hard.
16FD5 = most likely double sided ;)