Most PC8000 kits run 15 or higher tRAS not seen 12 yet unless PC6400...Quote:
Originally Posted by zlojack
thx for the tips Tony, preordered an Asus P5E3 Premium board and pretty keen on the OCZ 1333 kits...
Most PC8000 kits run 15 or higher tRAS not seen 12 yet unless PC6400...Quote:
Originally Posted by zlojack
thx for the tips Tony, preordered an Asus P5E3 Premium board and pretty keen on the OCZ 1333 kits...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony
Bah, i just found out how crap the gold edition is. Gonna stick with these ballistix
http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/02/...its/page8.html
There are a few around with tRAS 12 at PC8000Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
Here are two I could find in 2 minutes:
Muskin Redlines are 5-5-5-12 http://www.mushkin.com/doc/products/...ail.asp?id=647
XP2-8500 are 5-4-4-12
http://www.mushkin.com/doc/products/...ail.asp?id=556
Dude, if you have both in your possession, test them and see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sources
Don't listen to a review, do your own review.
What they "should" do and what they actually do can vary from set to set.
My Redlines don't run stable above stock so far no matter what I try, while the ones I saw reviewed got to 1100 MHz on 1.9v
...or run AUTO. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony
Tony, has anyone from ASUS responded to your comments re: the problems with these new bioses and the QX9650's?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony
hey guys thinking about getting a E8400 es but just wondering if it will run properly with a asus maximus fromula
thanks andy
It's been going great for me so far.
Prime95 stable 24/7 at 4GB (500x8 ) on 1.31v
Is this good (from Everest 4.20) ?
CPU Q6600 , Maximus Formula SE, 8x450 with 4:5 (1125MHz) with Cellshock 8000 4-4-4-12 @2.3V (memory timings in BIOS are all auto except 4-4-4-12-35), all on air.
Not a thing as of yet, I know bingo13 has told them also so they do know.Quote:
Originally Posted by xgman
we wait
Hey guys, new to the world of the asus maximus
Currently i have 2 x 2gb of ddr2-667 ram in dual channel mode A1 and B1. They are generic K-Byte modules with micron D9 chips used. I have the BIOS set to 1.8 V for these.
I have two more identical modules sitting on my desk...i am afraid to install them due to the horror stories i have been reading on the net with this MB and 8GB ram installed
I currently have the 505 BIOS and have my Q6700 at 333 x 9 for 3GHz at a vcore of 1.30v
any suggestions about a stable BIOS two use all 8GB and i assume i need to up the MCH voltage to 1.4 or 1.45 and Dram voltage to 1.9 for stability
For 4x2GB I believe Tony was testing the latest Beta Bios, version 1003. There is a link in the first post.
so i guess i will just be patient and wait for a new bios
I am deathly afraid of this MB
Any little change can cause my system to freeze up at Det DRAM
Kevin
Why not try bios 1003 on the first post? Tony, as I said reported good things with 4x2GB!
Successfully OC to 3.0Ghz with Q6600 for 6hours with OCCT.. now come the best part (OC to 3.6Ghz), if only I could install my RAM cooler beside my Tower120.... what a waste.
Are you talking about the NOCTUA NC-U6 CHIPSET COOLER ? I found it to be slightly cooler then the HR-05. What configuration did you end up to find good for the Ultra 120 w/ HR-05/SLI and with what style (slanted on non slant) of HR-09's on the same mobo? I also use the HR-09 (str8) on my previous mobo and it looks like it may be too tall for the Ultra 120. Willl it clear on the top edge of MAXIMUS and heatpipes of HR-09 (str8)Quote:
Originally Posted by Kondik
I have the EnzoTech SLF-1 Forged Copper Low Profile Southbridge Chipset cooler and it fits fine under most VGA and PCI pards. Even without the fan for more clearence it works great on this mobo or the EnzoTech SLF-1 Forged Copper Low Profile Southbridge Chipset (no fan but more copper). This is better then any of the old aluminum SB stock coolers if you have good air flow in your case.Quote:
Originally Posted by devilhood
I found the OCZ Platinum and above very stable n this mobo. My PC2-6400 did DDR1000 in 1:1 @ 5-5-5-15 easy and cool on only 2.22vQuote:
Originally Posted by p2501
You can, but it is very stressfull on the chipset, especially if on a divider. It might look good on paper with synthetic scores, but not so stable and reliale for everyday use, especially overclocked high.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyrus
What is this I hear about a 2nd rev of the SE version? I see only the same 1.02G wich has so far only for the non SE version.
Well i should tried then to pump up a little the nb voltage to see if i can set Moderate->Strong.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuckin_Futs
Since my memory can handle this (no memtest errors just freeze after 2-3loops) then it all depends on mobo.
Can anyone achieve 510FSB quad super pi 1mb stable?
There`s a newer intern bios than 1003 from Asus, Psycho from forumdeluxx.de is trying to get information.
*crosses fingers*Quote:
Originally Posted by eSp!s0
I hope this one fixes the issues with Penryn.
Yes 800MHz for now, will try to 1066 but will probably only run at 5-5-5-15 at best.Quote:
Originally Posted by zlojack
That's an old school Alpha socket 370 heatsink :p It's just memtest CPU doesn't get loaded so doesn't need anything heavy. I have a Thermalright Utlima-90 on the way.Quote:
Originally Posted by S1mon-
It's 1.03G and the way Asus mounts its heatsinks are horrible! They use some sort of epoxy thermal compound on the heatpipe THEN use some crappy white paste that barely makes 50% contact on the NB/SB ...Quote:
Originally Posted by .OCX
Does anyone know if the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit 2 works on the SB?
I'm highly interested in popping off the NB/SB heatsink to reapply my own thermal paste in order to keep the temperatures down. Is there a guide anywhere out there that explains this? I know I need to heat it with a hair dryer/heat gun, however I have a bunch of other questions too!
- I've read that you must NOT pull up on the heat sink. Therefore, should I use a twisting action?
- Do I remove EVERYTHING including the mofset sinks? Or do I just remove up to the aluminum heatsink neat the I/O panel?
- What thermal paste is safe to use on the chipset? Arctic Ceramique? MX-2? I shouldn't use AS5 due to electro-conductivity?
- The little fan that came with the mobo for the chipset...I read the warning and am NOT using it as I'm on air cooling. However should I be? Will it help temps? Or do you guys keep the chipset passively cooled?
Thank you!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnick
First off the heatpipe on the board is divided into TWO parts, the MOSFETS for the top and left is one unit. The aluminum heatsink where the I/O panels are, is part of the NB/SB setup, the ONLY thing that connects the MOSFET and NB/SB heatpipes is this ONE sticky thermal pad (sucks).
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...a/DSC00384.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...a/DSC00381.jpg
Removing Heatpipe
-Put into fridge for 10-15 minutes
-Remove four screws on the NB and pop out the two push-pins on the SB
-Remove unit from the NB, by twisting/lifting
-Due to the crappy mount, the entire unit should "pop" off quite easily
-You will need to carefully remove the aluminum part since it's stuck with a thermal pad
Cleaning
-Use those makeup pads with nail polish remover
-For the NB/SB just rub till it's all gone
-For the heatpipes themselves that requires more elbow grease, since the goop is quite a thick amount
Re-apply/Re-mount
-I used a high quality silver thermal compound that's non-conductive
-I used a couple rice grain sized amounts on the NB and less on the SB
-I placed the heatpipes back on top
-Pressed down and kind of massaged in a small circular motion to spread the compound
-Secured all the retention mechanisms
ASUS crap fan
-Don't bother with it, it hardly moves anything and takes up space
-Looks ugly
-You're better off mounting 40cm fans in a diamond shape over the NB, I found that this during bench testing did drop temperatures with my finger touching test :p
Note: some thermal pastes require curing time for optimal performance.
Note note: this will increase performance by up to 10c as reported by some users, however I never ran the board with the stock setup as I ripped it apart when I got it. The board idles around 42c at the moment. I found that it gets quite hot under small load so I will be replacing NB with a Thermalright heatpipe monster.
Thanks for the quality walkthrough man! You said that you're sitting at 42C idling...is that with an OC on your Q6600, or are you running stock?
<--- core 1-4 idles @ 27C to 30C
air cooling, :)
Does this procedure for removing heat sink works for board that have been already powered on or works only for not powered "out of the box" board ?
OK tried 1003 this afternoon. It's garbage. Can't boot on anything but the stock multi (9). Anything else and I get OC Failed! message. The extra tRFC settings are not needed for me anyways as it's never been an issue. It also makes the board WAYYY to finicky when I play with the timings. Settings that were once 24/7 rock stable all of a sudden were failing. Overall it's terrible and then some. I went back to 0907 and all was flying again with no issues.
Any news of a beta bios 1003 sucks!
Running stock no overclocking yet, only thing is RAM voltage at 2.1.Quote:
Originally Posted by jnick
If the board has been powered on I assume it will be harder since the stock goop will have soften and adhere to the surfaces. However it should still work though since it's not pure epoxy adhesive becauses there's crap paste between that for some reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by Notechis
I installed the Maximus Formula board the other day and the Chassis Fan 3 temp readout in my BIOS is a bright red color while all the other Chassis and Opt Fan readings are all a normal blue color...the Chassis Fan 3 is spinning at 1300rpm so it looks to be working OK but I'm just worried about why the color is red...red usually equals a danger sign of some kind...anyone have any ideas?
Red probably means its below a warning threshold. Lower the threshold if 1300rpms is what the fan is rated for.
how do I lower the threshold of the fan speed?...I only see temperature thresholds in the BIOS (CPU, NB, SB etc)...is PC Probe II the way to do this?
Go to bios Fan Eq you can set according to temperature or manual
with percentages 100%-60%
PC Probe is crap.
Just check the fan and make sure it's ok. Mine always turns red on one of my fans even though it's spinning full out and working just fine. It's like it doesn't read it properly. The RPMs are all over the place.
yeah my fans are running at max and no matter what level I set it to it still stays red in the BIOS...2 fans show up as red for me, Power Fan (which has no threshold option) and Chassis Fan 3 (which is controlled by PWM---and no matter if I set to 50% or 100%, Auto or Disabled it still stays Red)Quote:
Originally Posted by zlojack
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...orumula/12.jpg
It's found next to the black proprietary PCIe x1 slot (audio/PCI Express)
Any news about new Bios ?
1003 is not official Bios yet. For me 1003 Bios work perfectly, no problem.
But I prefer to have new official Bios...
I think as long as many users are having issues with it , Asus ( hopefully) won't give it to the masses... better await a new bios as moslty there isn't much difference (if any at all) between beta and offical bios...
Why is it that Intel states in the q6000 spec sheet that Vccpllmax for this series is about the same as Vcc, which is about 1.5v, but with this board you can't set anything below 1.6v.. :confused: (actually manual Vccpll setting in BIOS 0907 starts at 1.5 as you know, but if i set it to 1.5, after reboot the BIOS reads 1.61, a whopping .11 overvolt... is this standart for this board?)
On a side note, I got bad luck with my quad, it's a 1.325 vid following coretemp but the BIOS sets it to 1.28, why is this? Are Asus BIOS programmer so bad that they can't even make the board read the vid right?
Overall I'm really having fun with this board, overclocking with this thing is a breeze.. :cool:
1003 does NOT work right with new processors like the qx9650.Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyShady
I have purchased the maximus formula and for the life of me cannot get both 2gb sticks of ram to work. I have only been able to get 1 stick of ram to boot. I have played with many settings but really am apparently kind of new to this(been quite some time since i have done any OC or new build). Well long story short, stuck on the detdram and after reading i dont know how many pages including the tips on the front... nothing. The tip on the first page of this thread says to "If you get the DET RAM hang its usally just a matter of finding the right Trans Booster setting
No need to clear cmos and certainly no need to power down and wait the bios." Could someone elaborate a bit for me and what they mean?? If i have both sticks in, i cannot even get into the bios so maybe im doing something very wrong. Ram is G.SKILL F2-8000CL5D-4GBPQ. Any tips/help/WALKTRHOUGH!! lol would be very appreciative!! thx
BTW Fantastic site!! a new favorite and homepage of mine
this was happening to mine after a trial of v0907 and returning back to 802, and anything there after. I had to RMA it .
Hopefully your's is not as serious, but i had to clear CMOS, reset to get the F1 to enter set up or F2 to load default and continue. I used F1 to enter CMOS and changed at least CPU to manual and DRAM frequency plus timings to manual. If your RAM is PC2-6400, you can try setting spd to DDR800 and timings to 5-5-5-15 just to see if it saves and exits to restart and come back to CMOS to go on.
Give it a try, it was the only I could boot with my Crucials and oCZ's after that weird BIOS flash experience. Mine got worse though, afterwords, I could nolonger hit the kind of performance as before.
Good luck with yours!
Quote:
Originally Posted by aowen512
:welcome:
I would hold the power button till it shuts off, then reboot and you will get the f1 /f2 option.
Hit f1 and now your into your bios. 2x2GB will tax the NB a tad I would up that to the max green voltage 1.49.
Set ram to 2.0-2.1 The board over volts a tad.
Now depending on what strap your using I would suggest this...
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : Auto
CPU Ratio Setting : (set your multi here ie 8)
FSB Frequency : ( set ?? depending on how much MHz you want ie. 450)
FSB Strap to North Bridge : 400 / 333 ( you can choose here what divider you want)
PCI-E Frequency: 110
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-???? 400 will give you 900MHz ram
333 will give you 1081MHz ram
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
RAS# Precharge : 5
RAS# ActivateTime : 15
RAS# to RAS# Delay : Auto
Row Refresh Cycle Time : Auto
Write Recovery Time : Auto
Read to Precharge Time : Auto
Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
Ai Clock Twister : Strong
Transaction Booster : enabled for 400 strap
disabled for 333 strap
relax level 0
I hope this is somewhat clear to you, if not mc2k has 2x2GB gskill ram he can help out with settings.
Isn't anyone curious why all of a sudden, a set up that used to boot in full auto no longer does. I never had any of these problems before I moved to BIOS v0907. after flashing between BIOS version since v0205.
Every time I would prppare for a new flash, I always loaded default values and exited to restart entering CMOS, so I know it was working correctly before hand. I would then do the same just after the new flash, entering CMOS, to load default values and exiting to save and it worked up to v0903. So v0907 changed something major that never got rewritten when flashed again to any other BIOS version. Even my old, and just recently CMOS profile saves worked anymore for their coresponding BIOS versions (ie: freshly saved CMOS profile saves from v0903 no longer worked when right back to BIOS v0903).
Anybody else notice this?
It's all fine to be able to work around it (mine got worse though, isolated issue I guess)
I went thru several formula boards before finding one that worked or was stable, the first one overclocked like mad on the original bios (0505) but when I changed to 0907 it ate ram within minutes, 2nd was DOA, 3rd overvolted on stock settings like it had its own power plant inside, on the two that worked out of the box, both overclocked better on the original bios, this 4th board so far is working great on the original bios 0602 and I probably won't change it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuckin_Futs
I'm starting to notice that. My 2nd go around looks like v0602 did best and better then v0802 for me. I get use of fixed 333 or 400 strap and 3:4 or 5:6 to 500FSB. Should've stayed there all along.
All this fuss with tightest RAM timing and performance was so not worth it for real world daily use.
If I had to pick a BETA, v0903 was the only one worthy for me w/ E6750 for 5:6 to 500FSB. even though the S3 was iffy most the time.
OUT OF STOCK - Rev 1.02G? So what's this I here, are they gonna' offer me a non SE Rev 1.03G instead? Cool, I was gonna use my own water blocks anyways and only got the SE because it was the only choice in September last year. So works for me.
Anybody frop this in the new Danger-Dan box case (clear plastic) yet? I like it but no more room for my tri-120mm rad.
Just for info:
I've already written that I've rockstable 67 C NB temp (idle) and 77 C loaded.
Cause some didn't believe and I also wanted to be sure for 100% I've removed the Asus NB and replaced it with Noctua NC-U6 cooler, which is one of the best passive NB coolers you can get. I also extra bought Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste (also one of the best you can get).
And now guess what....my temps dropped from 67 C idle to insane 66 C.
All the :banana::banana::banana::banana: done wasn't necesarry. I also checked if original cooler had the paste applied over the whole surface. All was ok.
So whatever it may be, my over 60C idle NB temps showen in BIOS and Everest are rockstable even when oced, are not to get lower without using watercooling, fan or similar and are :banana::banana::banana::banana:ing undescribable.
What are your NB volts, bios and actual? My 3rd board overvolted like crazy and temps were in the high 50's on the NB, wouldnt stay stable, my experience with this board is higher temps take higher volts, and higher volts cause higher temps & electron migration, so on the 4th board I put a fan on it and stays below 41c allowing me to lower volts dramatically.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin77
For me, the lower the temps & volts the better it works. Each board is different though :rolleyes:
Guys, I really tried to wade through this whole thread... but I can't do it!
Is the heatpipe removal/TIM reapplication necessary or just for peace of mind?
Not necessary unless you are pushing high volts on the NB. Even then, you can get away with a fan on it and you will be just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Underwater Mike
Personally i think it is a waste of time as long as you have a fan over the area. This is coming from someone who couldn't wait to cut up those heat pipes in the past. Yes it could run cooler, but I'm not convinced it makes much difference in clocks especially if you move air over the stock pipes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Underwater Mike
I reseated mine with AS5 and did notice a slight improvment on LOAD temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Underwater Mike
I would remove and re seat them with after market cooling. The heat pipe leading to the SB actually makes your SB chip run hotter than it would due to the extra heat the NB is send down the pipe. I don't even have anything on my SB since I removed the stock and it lowered the temps 8 deg not being connected to the NB.
Also my NB ran 52-55 stock and I couldn't clock the CPU past 3.2 since I couldn't run stable voltage, now that I water cool my NB is runs an idle 29 and loaded 44 roughly.
EDIT: if my NB ran idle at 66 I would have RMA'd it :)
:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sources
I would remove it, yes it takes a few minutes of your time, but it eliminates the unknown factor, "is my heatsink seated completely or just on 1 corner, etc." :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Underwater Mike
2 of my boards were only seated on 1 corner the rest of the heatsink wasnt even touching, another board only touched in the very center and covered a small percentage of the NB area.
If you wait until you have high temps, it makes the job more difficult to do :down:
btw, I have waded thru alot more posts than U will find under this thread before I started overclocking :D
Thx for the reply grnfinger. I followed your instructions and tried both the 400 and 333 strap. When trying the different straps, i tried the sticks in both white and blue slots respectively. Still cant get into bios with both sticks of ram in. Any other suggestions or should i start inquiring about an RMA to newegg? Or... is it perhaps my ram?
Hmmmm. Seems a slight difference of opinion. Not at XS?!? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by iadstudio
Since I don't plan on returning to water in the near future, is it worth putting an aftermarket cooler on both the NB and SB, and just ditching the pipes? From the pix I've seen, it looks like the PWM sinks and pipes are a separate unit? I could remount the stock coolers on there, and just go with aftermarket for the rest, correct?
BTW, transferring heat from NB to SB is exactly the reason why I thought about removing the whole business.
Drop mc2k a private message, he has the same ram and had really nice clocks running.Quote:
Originally Posted by aowen512
He can help you better than me for I only run 2x1GB so I am not familliar with 4GB settings.
I'll message him and let him know that I sent you his way. He's a great guy and will give you lots of good advice.
I just sent him a pm and gave all the information, he might not respond till tomorrow depending on your time zone, it's sleepy time for him
Has anybody else the Mushkin XP2-8000 2x2GB and can help me with the settings?
I can run 450FSB 1:1 with
400Strap
DRam SRC Disabled
AI Moderate
TB Disabled - Relax 1
But if I try 500FSB 1:1 with same settings and more VDimm the system won`t boot ( voltages aren`t the problem). Also tried Relax 2-4 and Boost 0-1, tried all settings to Auto and tried 333strap but no any boot with 1000Mhz.
Any news on this new bios? The one newer than 1003?
Make sure you backup your bios BEFORE flashing as 1003 will corrupt your current save.
Backing up the bios won't backup the saved profiles too. Something changes in 1003 just like in 0903 and it makes any previous saved profiles incompatible. It's not a big deal, just an inconvenience. :down:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagged
This is a quick question hopefully I can get a quick response. when I set my voltage on my board higher and higher it seems it has more and more vdroop...
right now with it set to 1.52v cpu-z is reporting 1.46 as well as all my other programs. this seems a bit excessive... are my programs reporting incorectly or is there something wrong with my board ?
using bios 0907
q6700
vistax64
Corsair DHX 8500c5 4x1
468x8 for 3.78 ghz on air
Hey all,
I recently got my rig up and running, everything went well at first, loaded windows, got all updates, loaded norton etc.. Started having problems with system hanging & crashing. Ram memtest86+, got a bunch of errors, got with mushkin they gave me some timings to use, plugged them in, tried to restart & system hung on CPU INIT. Got back with mushkin they said bad ram, rma to manufacturer, I did, got replacement, put them in, same problem CPU INIT, won't post. Tried clearing cmos many times, still no go. Took whole thing back apart, checked for bent pins, dirt, as5 somewhere it shoulden't be. Found nothing wrong that I could find. Put it all back together and same thing, CPU INIT. even tried leaving battery out over night, did not help. I just noticed about 5 mins ago that the LED for the cpu is not lighting up at all when I hit the power button, all 3 other LED's light up except the CPU LED. What does this mean? Fried board?
It's really weird because everything ran fine for a couple of days, then everything went to crap, only thing I did was change ram timings & ram voltage to 2.0v.
Any help, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Rick
I would first try setting your bios settings to default... then reflashing with a usb stick. Also try to reseat your cpu and make sure the cpu 12v power connector is in properly. if the cpu light isnt lit up that means its probably not getting any voltage. Could be a bad board. could be a bad CPU (slim chance unless you oced it too far) could be a problem with your psu and that 4pin connector. altho if that was bad your machine wouldnt post anything.
0ut0fstep
Can't get into bios to reset to default, clear cmos won't do anything either, can't get past cpu init at post. Tried reseating cpu earlier this evening, did not help, the 12v power connector currently plugged in is the 4 pin one from p/s, I unplugged & replugged many times, also tried the 8 pin connector, no go with either, however I origionally started out with the 4 pin 12v when it first worked, when I changed the ram out and it would not post I tried the 8 pin, thinking maybe it needed more power, still wouldent post so I went back to the 4 pin. wonder if trying the 8 pin hurt anything?? never tried any o/cing on cpu all settings were always at default except for ram timings.
Thanks for suggestions though
Rick
when i turn power on all fans spin up and i can hear hard drive comming on.
I am going to guess you arent getting any post beeps either :-) I would test your power supply before you test the mobo.. the motherboard "was" working as intended. changing out from the 4pin to the 8pin wouldnt do anything except give you more reliable and stable voltages to the cpu. If there is a retailer near you I would have them take your powersupply and test it see if you are getting 12v +- maximum of .3 volts outta it. if its showing like 11.6v or under I would replace it.
Also I know these situations are very rare and I almost never use one but I always ask.. you didnt shock your board did you ? ESD does still kill computer parts nowadays .. its hard to do but "can" happen.
If you bought your board from a local retailer I would just take it with you and test your psu and if your psu tests fine then exchange the board. if you bought it online I would test the PSU before RMAing to asus or wherever you bought it from.
Hope this helps some. Not posting anything can be a series of things from bad ram to a bad harddrive.
When trouble shooting always make sure you have 1 stick of ram in and you dont have anything else connected to the motherboard besides your vid card and CPU. Then swap out sticks of ram till you post if you dont post you know its not your ram and its either the CPU board or PSU... and if you are like most of us computer geeks you have a el cheapo celeron that works laying around that you can pop in. then you can determine if the CPU is dead or not.
Now you ahve narrowed it down to teh board or PSU. So then you have a little powersupply tester on hand to check your voltages. Or if you have a voltmeter you can use one of those too just need to check the power and ground. You get my drift I wont write anymore of a book for ya :-)
Also take out the cmos battery for 30minutes to an hour.
YES, if you plan to OC or have less then good indoor cooling. Changing out for at least AS5 helps a tad, but not too much. But if anything, it's ready when you get the right coolers. I use the Noctua NC-06 with 80x15mm and it is great, but the ThermalRight HR-05/SLI is cool too. I would however drop a simple SB cooler just to help. I know people say you dont need it but the SB can perform smoother in SATA rAID if kept cool under a high OC and added voltage. I use 1.10 @ 480FSB and it keeps it nice and cool with Enzotek copper sink.Quote:
Originally Posted by Underwater Mike
The great thing unlike the previous ROG series, is the NB/SB pipes come off seperate then the Mosfets so you can change little at a time or just leave the ASUS mosfet coolers if replacing pad with ThermalRight paste or AS5. Do keep the parts as you will need them for an RMA or return. They dont care that they got removed, just make sure you put them back for return.
Wish you luck guy. Keep us posted in case it may help others.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric2L
I hate stock cooling it's useless ugly and doesn't cool at all (: Thermalright all the way !Quote:
Originally Posted by Underwater Mike
I had the noctua and i found it completley useless , SB with noctua 46 oC load , Thermalright 40, NB Noctua 50 +/- Thermalright 47. But it's passive without fan because i like silence. But still Thermalright > NoctuaQuote:
Originally Posted by Nuckin_Futs
Got my system stable at 9.5x425.
Stable as in 12h Prime95 Blend, 8 hour OCCT Mixed and 8 hour OCCT Ram.
I'm gonna play around with voltages and memory timings to see if I can get some more performance from the memory.
Running QX9650 with 4 sticks of Crucial Ballistix PC-8500.
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/8...erpifn8.th.jpg
These are my settings:
BIOS 907
Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
CPU Ratio Setting : 9.5
FSB Frequency : 425
FSB Strap to North Bridge : 400
PCI-E Frequency: 110
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-1133MHz
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
RAS# Precharge : 5
RAS# ActivateTime : 18
RAS# to RAS# Delay : 3
Row Refresh Cycle Time : 42
Write Recovery Time : 6
Read to Precharge Time : 3
Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
Ai Clock Twister : Strong
Transaction Booster : Enabled
-Boost Level 0
CPU Voltage : 1.43750
CPU PLL Voltage : 1.58
North Bridge Voltage : 1.57
DRAM Voltage : 2.12
FSB Termination Voltage : 1.52
South Bridge Voltage : 1.050
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : 0.63x
North Bridge GTL Reference : 0.67x
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.5
NB LED Selection : NB Volt
SB LED Selection : SB Volt
CPU LED Selection : CPU Volt
Voltiminder LED : Enabled
CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled
So, would the TRUE 120 fit with the HR-05/SLI? As I said, I hate to waste the stock gizmo, but if I'll get measurably better results with TR blocks, I'll do that. As far as the SB, I have a couple Zalman NB-47J laying around. That should be more than sufficient for the task, especially with the case I'm getting.
BTW, thanks for all the help. This thread has nearly moved me from getting the DFI board...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuckin_Futs
Hi all, new to this thread and just finished reading all 79 pages :) Lots of great info, thanks everyone!
I just got my board and a QX6850, I only saw 2 people posting about this CPU and no settings. Seems like everyone is using either Q6600 or E8400 in here^^ The original post contains a lot of templates I could start from, but if anyone got a QX6850 @ around 3.6 for 24/7 I would be grateful for the settings. I'm new to the CPU also.
Was a lot of pages, but enjoyed the reading - thanks again (and Nucking Futs, I smile every time I see your nick^^)
Hi Guys,
I'm running my E8400 at 4050 MHz now and it's almost stable. The problem is that about one in five times the system hangs at DET RAM. When it does boot to windows there is no problem and it's orthos and OCCT-stable for 12 hours. Can u guys help me with the last bit of tweaking? I'm running this now:
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : AUTO
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
FSB Frequency : 450
FSB Strap to North Bridge : 333
PCI-E Frequency: 100
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-1081
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Auto
CAS# Latency :
RAS# to CAS# Delay :
RAS# Precharge :
RAS# ActivateTime :
RAS# to RAS# Delay :
Row Refresh Cycle Time :
Write Recovery Time :
Read to Precharge Time :
Read to Write Delay (S/D) :
Write to Read Delay (S) :
Write to Read Delay (D) :
Read to Read Delay (S) :
Read to Read Delay (D) :
Write to Write Delay (S) :
Write to Write Delay (D) :
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
Ai Clock Twister : Auto
Transaction Booster : Disabled
Relax Lvl: 1
CPU Voltage : 1.375
CPU PLL Voltage : 1.50
North Bridge Voltage : 1.55
DRAM Voltage : 2.20
FSB Termination Voltage : 1.22
South Bridge Voltage : 1.05
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : 0.63
North Bridge GTL Reference : 0.67
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : Auto
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : Auto
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : Auto
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.50
NB LED Selection : FSBT Volt
SB LED Selection : SB 1.5 Volt
CPU LED Selection : PLL VOlt
Voltiminder LED : Enabled
CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled
Advanced CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
Ratio CMOS Setting : 9.0
C1E Suppport : Disabled
CPU TM Function : Disabled
Vanderpool Technology : Disabled
Execute Disable Bit : Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w24/tiesum/CPU-Z.jpg
2.20 on your RAM might be a little too high (The board overvolts).Quote:
Originally Posted by tiesum
I would try 2.12 or 2.14
Also, your FSBt looks way too low, try it from 1.40 and see if it makes any difference
edit
I've been running 4x1gb of ballistix at 2.4v set in bios with fan over the ram. No detram messages. Somehow I think that 4gb may need a bit more voltage set in bios than 2gb does?Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
Yeah I dont think the high volt would cause DETRAM, but many people have reported killing their Ballistix with high voltage on this MB.
I run 4 sticks at 2.12v set in BIOS for 2.22v measured, and it's stable as far as I can tell.
Can someone help me get pass 455 fsb stable.
I getting the massage " Display Driver stopped working and has recover" when I plays game . At 455 fsb I has no problem. I want 465 fsb at least but game freeze and getting the display driver message
I had tried everything but same result, maybe I'm missing something? here is my current stable setting
Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : AUTO
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
FSB Frequency : 455
FSB Strap to North Bridge : 333
PCI-E Frequency: 105
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-1093
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
RAS# Precharge : 5
RAS# ActivateTime : 15
RAS# to RAS# Delay : AUTO
Row Refresh Cycle Time : AUTO
Write Recovery Time : AUTO
Read to Precharge Time : AUTO
Read to Write Delay (S/D) : AUTO
Write to Read Delay (S) : AUTO
Write to Read Delay (D) : AUTO
Read to Read Delay (S) : AUTO
Read to Read Delay (D) : AUTO
Write to Write Delay (S) : AUTO
Write to Write Delay (D) : AUTO
DRAM Static Read Control: Disable
Ai Clock Twister : Auto
Transaction Booster : disabled
Relax level: 1
CPU Voltage : 1.393
CPU PLL Voltage : AUTO
North Bridge Voltage : 1.61
DRAM Voltage : 2.20
FSB Termination Voltage : 1.54
South Bridge Voltage : 1.050
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : 0.63X
North Bridge GTL Reference : 0.67X
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : AUTO
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : AUTO
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : DDR2-REFF
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.5
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0ut0fstep
I hooked up another power supply that I had lying around (only 300w) to the 12v mobo connector to see if it would light up the led's for cpu. comp came on all fans spun up but no cpu led. however the comp did not try to restart itself over & over like before, so I unhooked the 12v cable from 300w ps restarted, had the same thing, all fans would come on and stay on until I manually shut it down. Then I hooked the the 12v cable from my 610w that was still in the case back up & computer started right up!!! all leds were lit and green even the one for the cpu. So I hooked the monitor & keyboard back up to see if windows would run & it came up with no problems!!! restarted again, went into bios, set ram timings & voltages, set boot sequence to boot from dvdrom saved settings, put memtest86+ cd in, restarted, memtes started to run, got to 26% on test 3 with 0 errors, & it hung there for 10 mins. had no keyboard functions or anything, so I removed cd, hit reset, comp came back up got into windows decided to try memtest again, shut comp down & when I restarted, nothing???, same as before no cpu led, comp just kept trying to restart hung on CPU INIT!!!!!!
Think its time to RMA???
when I was in bios went to hardware monitor & it showed 11.98v @ the 12v connector?
I'm stumped, think maybe something is shorting the board, but I've unhooked everything & tried them 1 at a time, same prob over & over.
any more ideas??
I keep you posted as to progress, if I get any further.
Rick
Has anyone actually done a multimeter vdimm test on this board to see if the board is really overvolting ram as reported in bios?Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
Why? You'd only get to hear that this temps within the official max loaded temp of 92 C (for proof just search Intel thermal design spec from X38: http://download.intel.com/design/chi.../31761201.pdf).Quote:
Originally Posted by Sources
;)
So im looking at everyone's cpu-z CPU voltage to the board setting they have....
Why am I getting such a wide spread difference. for ex: when I have cpu voltage set to 1.36 I get 1.32 in cpu-z when I have it set to 1.5 I get 1.44 its always a difference of .06.... I know I can compensate for it but is anyone else having the same issue?
On mine if I have "Loadline calibration" enabled the difference between BIOS setting and CPU loaded CPUz reading is about 0.01v. Disable and "Loadline calibration" and the difference is just under 0.1v!Quote:
Originally Posted by 0ut0fstep
I had the random det ram hang alot, once I set my ram sub timming it went away, I would try that for starts.Quote:
Originally Posted by tiesum
Also your FSBT is kinda low, try 1.40, and you have alot of volts going into your NB for only 2GB of ram is ther a reason for that?
I would think 1.49 for NB should be ok if it will run stable
This is my 4.3GHz setting its 15hours prime stable, maybe it will help you.Quote:
Originally Posted by icecpu
Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : AUTO
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
FSB Frequency : 478
FSB Strap to North Bridge : 333
PCI-E Frequency: 110
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-1147
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
RAS# Precharge : 5
RAS# ActivateTime : 15
RAS# to RAS# Delay : 3
Row Refresh Cycle Time : 42
Write Recovery Time : 6
Read to Precharge Time : 3
Read to Write Delay (S/D) : 8
Write to Read Delay (S) : 3
Write to Read Delay (D) : 5
Read to Read Delay (S) : 4
Read to Read Delay (D) : 6
Write to Write Delay (S) : 4
Write to Write Delay (D) : 6
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
Ai Clock Twister : Strong
Transaction Booster : Disabled
RELAX LEVEL:0
CPU Voltage : 1.38
CPU PLL Voltage : AUTO
North Bridge Voltage : 1.49
DRAM Voltage : 2.16
FSB Termination Voltage : 1.40
South Bridge Voltage : 1.050
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : 0.63X
North Bridge GTL Reference : 0.67X
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : DDR2
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : DDR2
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : DDR2-REFF
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.5
Hi, 1004 http://rapidshare.com/files/97294391...-1004.rom.html anyone care to risk it and give it a try?
Chris
I'm game
I hope it fixes the problem with the 9650's and 1001-1003 bioses.
So far it seems that 1004 is a MAJOR improvement for Wolfdales.
It booted right up with my 907 settings with no iisues unlike 1003, gone is the slow sluggish feel of 1003.
Row Refresh Cycle Time is changed abit I no longer have a 42 option.
Ram is liking this bios alot.
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/f..._1147_4300.png
Going to run a few benches and give it a run on Fall of Liberty ans see how it performs.
1004?:shrug: Where did you find that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Grnfinger
Edit::doh:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grnfinger
Sounds good, I'll try it tonight.
uh, look 4 posts up from yours . . . . :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by iadstudio
Interesting. What Row Refresh Cycle Time's are available and can you select them in single increments?Quote:
Originally Posted by Grnfinger
So far I am very pleased with this new bios
A big thanks to cuke2u:up:
There is auto/20/25/30/35/40/45/50/55/60/65/70/80/85/105/132Quote:
Originally Posted by theonlybabyface
Thanks...so same as 1003. Too bad as being able to select in single increments would be just perfect.
no bugs or problems found?
So far its 100%, trying to find something I dont like and I cant.Quote:
Originally Posted by eSp!s0
going to test dividers in a few mins when 3dmark is done
ne1 got a SLIC version of this 1004 bios ?
Yes, do that :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Grnfinger
Just flashed bios and 2x2GB Redlines are running the 1000Mh now because of TRFC (set to 55), TRFC was the big problem of the board/ram.
flashed the 1004 bios an hour ago, and now am back to 907.
1004 didnt work at all for me.
after the successful flash, i rebooted, and reloaded my saved profile. all the options were skewed; so i went through every menu, and set it back to where they should be. saved it, rebooted, and everytime, no matter what, the lcd poster said, CMOS error. went back into bios finally, and loaded setup defaults, rebooted, and still cmos error. i could tell the bios had updated properly, because i had the extra tRFC options........
.......bottom line: 1004 doesnt work for me.
1003 did buuutttttt....
still stickin' with 907 for a while :/
cmon asus! give us some love.