need your suggestion/expertise on my single loop pissing flow issue

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Originally Posted by m0r7if3r

You could run off an RD20 or RD30 and it'd handle your whole loop without blinking

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whats the brand ? not familiar with rd20/30

The http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...iquote_off.gif button works :up:

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Originally Posted by NapalmV5

whats the brand ? not familiar with rd20/30

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those are giant pumps and more than u should need (also i dont think that u can get them and they run from 24V)

i would suggest
1)remove the raid card, or dont cool the back of it and cool the main chip with a swiftech part, it looks like u went all EK so u have really restrictive small blocks.

2) take the ram out

3) put the gpus in parallel (i cannot tell how u have it)

4) get some BP rotary 90 for the MB blocks, that will shorten the tubing and clear the mess

5) get a good pump like an mcp355 (ddc) with a top, or a dual mcp355 setup.

6) if u want every thing u will need 2 loops.

the brand name of it is Iwaki. ( I went dyslexic on this word for 8 years, thought it was Ikawi 2 months ago I figured it out :) )

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Originally Posted by zanzabar

those are giant pumps and more than u should need (also i dont think that u can get them and they run from 24V)

i would suggest
1)remove the raid card, or dont cool the back of it and cool the main chip with a swiftech part, it looks like u went all EK so u have really restrictive small blocks.

2) take the ram out

3) put the gpus in parallel (i cannot tell how u have it)

4) get some BP rotary 90 for the MB blocks, that will shorten the tubing and clear the mess

5) get a good pump like an mcp355 (ddc) with a top, or a dual mcp355 setup.

6) if u want every thing u will need 2 loops.

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why wouldn't he be able to get them?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...&keyword=iwaki

I don't think you read the part of the 90 feet of tube. I really don't think the ram block or the raid card are the problem. but

I totally agree with 4, and I'm thinking he will need at least AT least, 2 355's at full blast or a couple of mcp 35x's.

2 D5 strongs @ 24v?

one way or the other, you're going to need to ditch those small time pumps and get with a real watercooling modigger.

another idea I had, esp when ppl are separating blocks is to use something like

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=943

you can have smaller pumps on each end, and even put in more computers later on if you so choose.

got the idea from Brewing beer / the geothermal thread on here in the work logs to keep the blocks free of possible little pebbles : ).

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Originally Posted by NapalmV5

if rad/s in the same room that means dust/noise/fans hell no!

lol peru?! its probably still hot.. dude im right here in the northwest us :)

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For some reason I thought you were in peru. :shrug:

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Originally Posted by OC Maximus

The http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...iquote_off.gif button works :up:

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take a look ive used it :up: sorry im not going to include 20 quotes in one post.. only saaya does that

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zanzabar

those are giant pumps and more than u should need (also i dont think that u can get them and they run from 24V)

i would suggest
1)remove the raid card, or dont cool the back of it and cool the main chip with a swiftech part, it looks like u went all EK so u have really restrictive small blocks.

2) take the ram out

3) put the gpus in parallel (i cannot tell how u have it)

4) get some BP rotary 90 for the MB blocks, that will shorten the tubing and clear the mess

5) get a good pump like an mcp355 (ddc) with a top, or a dual mcp355 setup.

6) if u want every thing u will need 2 loops.

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i got 24v power supply no problem

1- but im using the raid card and it needs to be cooled.. used to be cooled by a 120mm fan.. will not go back to that

2- the ram needs cooling too otherwise i have to cool it by a fan

3- well first time ive used the parallel bridge instead of the serial in the pix^ and it doesnt work properly.. one card always runs hotter by ~10C than the other both: 2way sli and 3way sli

4- yeh i was thinkin of going rotary 90 on the rest but its double sworded on one hand lowers and shortens the tubing on the other adds lots of angles.. leave it as is or go all almost all rotary 90 ??

5- i will look into those pumps

6- going to 3 loops immediately

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Originally Posted by dengyong

For some reason I thought you were in peru. :shrug:

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no problem bro its all good :toast:

use multi quote/edit and look at the rounded fittings
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24756

and what bock do u have on the raid card i will bet that a swiftech will be way less restrictive.

@peng. i though no1 carried them anymore but u got a link i should have checked.
@op those rd30s are beasts 1 is like 4 ddcs or something

first result on a google search, hefty price tag too.

I think 2 d5 strongs would be about the same price after tops tho.. and that thing is def better.

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Originally Posted by penguins

first result on a google search, hefty price tag too.

I think 2 d5 strongs would be about the same price after tops tho.. and that thing is def better.

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the d5 is larger, weaker and costs more than the ddc though

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Originally Posted by NapalmV5

the rads and pump are 2 rooms down.. now i moved all the pumps over there

its the reason why i went into water cooling after 7 years on air

no noise no fans no dust no rads all this crap away from the system.. system resides all alone in the living room nothing else

from the start i wanted to go with 1" tubing but its still restricted to 1/2" blocks/rads

this was critical.. i was forced to install the eheims in the living room but they gone now

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I understand you are limited to 1/2" at the blocks, but using fat tubing for the long runs will help tremendously as those long runs at 1/2" is what is really murdering you (aside from not strong enough pumps to go with it). Larger tubing won't have as much pressure drop per foot as thinner tubing, so you'll have more left at the computer where you need it.

I don't think the RD30 is like 4 DDC's, more like 2 to 2.5, I have one and it was a little stronger than my dual D5's. The thing is that it has a lot of head pressure and with that amount of tubing it would be better than going dual DDC's. Not sure about the Dual D5 strongs, Martin seems to like those and that might be the ticket in this situation. You could always do two RD30's and separate your loop into two. Not sure if you have a budget for this or not.

zanzabar, I was talking about the D5 Strong, not regular D5. and wasn't compairing ddc's at all. I love ddc's.

I also was agreeing with you that it would cost way more than needed, but They would be a great pair for this application.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zanzabar

use multi quote/edit and look at the rounded fittings
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24756

and what bock do u have on the raid card i will bet that a swiftech will be way less restrictive.

@peng. i though no1 carried them anymore but u got a link i should have checked.
@op those rd30s are beasts 1 is like 4 ddcs or something

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koolance chc125+mvr40 w/ 107.5mm plates
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=663

which swiftech model comparable to above that would fit ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by penguins

first result on a google search, hefty price tag too.

I think 2 d5 strongs would be about the same price after tops tho.. and that thing is def better.

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guys i paid 250$ for the "1800gph" pump.. surprisingly i found it here locally and i needed a pump that evening

it's not money it's what it is designed for.we're just talking about performance / price of the iwaki vs some laings

those koolance blocks are quite restrictive.

and u got an aquarium pump they have no pressure.

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Originally Posted by Sparky

I understand you are limited to 1/2" at the blocks, but using fat tubing for the long runs will help tremendously as those long runs at 1/2" is what is really murdering you (aside from not strong enough pumps to go with it). Larger tubing won't have as much pressure drop per foot as thinner tubing, so you'll have more left at the computer where you need it.

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ill have to go to 1" tubing asap

thanks

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Originally Posted by Utnorris

I don't think the RD30 is like 4 DDC's, more like 2 to 2.5, I have one and it was a little stronger than my dual D5's. The thing is that it has a lot of head pressure and with that amount of tubing it would be better than going dual DDC's. Not sure about the Dual D5 strongs, Martin seems to like those and that might be the ticket in this situation. You could always do two RD30's and separate your loop into two. Not sure if you have a budget for this or not.

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i got no flow i got nothing so im willing to go even higher than the rd30 price tag

Quote:

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Originally Posted by penguins

zanzabar, I was talking about the D5 Strong, not regular D5. and wasn't compairing ddc's at all. I love ddc's.

I also was agreeing with you that it would cost way more than needed, but They would be a great pair for this application.

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do they have rd40 rd50 coming up any time soon ? :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by penguins

the brand name of it is Iwaki. ( I went dyslexic on this word for 8 years, thought it was Ikawi 2 months ago I figured it out :) )



why wouldn't he be able to get them?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...&keyword=iwaki

I don't think you read the part of the 90 feet of tube. I really don't think the ram block or the raid card are the problem. but

I totally agree with 4, and I'm thinking he will need at least AT least, 2 355's at full blast or a couple of mcp 35x's.

2 D5 strongs @ 24v?

one way or the other, you're going to need to ditch those small time pumps and get with a real watercooling modigger.

another idea I had, esp when ppl are separating blocks is to use something like

you can have smaller pumps on each end, and even put in more computers later on if you so choose.

got the idea from Brewing beer / the geothermal thread on here in the work logs to keep the blocks free of possible little pebbles : ).

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thanks lol

so one is not going to cut it ?

they say theyre easy on your ears.. big plus! cause the "1800gph" is very noisy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zanzabar

those koolance blocks are quite restrictive.

and u got an aquarium pump they have no pressure.

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thanks ill look into swiftech blocks

yeh the pump is a joke

well guys finally tonight an hour ago i was able to get better flow.. barely decent.. nothing budged until i removed the tubing that was connected to the eheim 1250.. once the gpu got connected to cpu and only after i reversed the flow finally the flow got jump started.. and right now is the same flow gpu in raid out but in order to get better decent flow id have to reverse it.. in which case the ek cpu block is the culprit

idk how long it will last by morning it may go back to pissing droplets

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3/sam0939u.jpg

the eheim 1250 are gone from the system loop

I assumed 3/8 tubing. By looking at that chart you can see that the max head is 15ft -from that you can get an outlet velocity and then a pressure drop across 74ft of tubing.. I didn't take into consideration any of the 90's/blocks. I was just curious if it could make it through the tubing.

Well, if you think the CPU block is the culprit, pull it out and make sure it is not clogged. I was having flow issues to the point my RD30 would barely give me 1.2Gpm. After troubleshooting the issue I found that the CPU block was clogged. Fixed my flow issue.

ok guys.. when u have large areas u need to cover.. ie.. rad in another room, the best way to handle it is to use a TANK in the room with the computer, and have the tank feed 2 ways.

1 -> computer
2 -> radiator


having 70 feet in tubing in serial is like WOW... u trying to build a space elevator out of tubing? :rofl:


Seriously... have the tank fed to the room.
Have a large rad cooling the tank constantly... basically feeding the radiator and back to the tank.

Then have your pumps feed from that tank to blocks and back to the tank.


The loop with the radiator will do all the heat exchanging for you without needed restrictions.
Then you can focus on smaller loops from the tank -> PC -> tank.

that's a pretty good idea...
considering i have 2 PC running... each with their own radbox.
the only down side i can see is if both machines are asleep then the loop to the rad will keep running....
unless of course there is temperature monitoring. then the rad box would only need to turn on when the water temperature rose above a certain level.
well gets me thinking for a summer project:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MadHacker

that's a pretty good idea...
considering i have 2 PC running... each with their own radbox.
the only down side i can see is if both machines are asleep then the loop to the rad will keep running....
unless of course there is temperature monitoring. then the rad box would only need to turn on when the water temperature rose above a certain level.
well gets me thinking for a summer project:D

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not a problem..

your rad loop can run constantly..

Since its in another room, u wont hear it.. at most you'll hear the pump inside the res which is turning the water to your radiator.

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

not a problem..

your rad loop can run constantly..

Since its in another room, u wont hear it.. at most you'll hear the pump inside the res which is turning the water to your radiator.

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i'm thinking more of saving on electricity.
if my systems are sleeping. then there is no point...
especialy if i have everything i need already to control stuff...
except for mabe a relay to turn the pumps on/off.

as for noise... i won't hear it...
the rad box is in the laundry room next door... and as it is i can't hear the washer/dryer through the 6" sound proof wall :D

Naekuh, that's a genius idea, love it. It definitely would be a lot less restricted and depending on the size of the tank, the water may not move much in temp due to the shear volume. As far as running all the time, not sure if a 12v pump running constantly would really use much electricity, maybe $10 a month at worse case.