Yes it stays constant wherever I set it.Quote:
Originally Posted by orion23
My Temps are Here.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by orion23
Printable View
Yes it stays constant wherever I set it.Quote:
Originally Posted by orion23
My Temps are Here.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by orion23
Look here:Quote:
Originally Posted by DomagojX
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...=677&Itemid=69
Pro has SLI support (8x/8X), an extra pcie slot, extra eSata port.
In terms of oc capability, i'm pretty sure it'll do just at well as Pro.
I think SuperPi only loads 1 core. And it does really stress it.Quote:
Originally Posted by orion23
P8P67 NON-pro only supports CF, and has one x16 slot that runs full-speed. When the second slot is populated for crossfire it goes down to x4 or x1 mode (x4 if no other devices are in use except the two video cards, x1 otherwise) while the main slot goes to x8.Quote:
Originally Posted by DomagojX
The P8P67 PRO has SLI and CF support with x8/x8 in the two slots for those setups (i.e. the crippled performance of the NON-pro model in CF/dual card config isn't the case on the PRO). Additionally it features an Intel NIC vs. the Realtek one of the NON-pro, and better phase regulation as well as a bunch of other more minor features/niceties of the board.
Definitely go for the Pro if you can... if you NEVER intend to try a multi-card config, the non-pro could be viable, but it is an inferior board.
EDIT: To chip in my experience...
L040B208 batch retail (D2) i7 2600K + Asus P8P67 Pro motherboard
I find the following settings to provide the best stability at any given voltage/OC:
CPU Current Capability: 130%
Load Line Calibration: Ultra High
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
Multiplier "By all cores" (this doesn't seem to have any effect on the OC whether it's set to that or "by per core")
I then set my RAM to stock volts/settings and the vCore/multi to what I want and give it a shot...
So far I'm finding I need 1.395v (set in BIOS) with these settings to maintain full stability in games, prime, linxx, and intel burn test... it will pass 25+ runs of max IBT with lower but then crash in a game later with a bluescreen with 1.380 set. I think 4.8ghz is where I'll be nailing things down for a 24/7 OC... temps get too high for my liking if I pop up to 5ghz/1.425v (not stable yet at that point but it boots and can run a little stress testing) on my relatively puny Xigmatek S1283 HSF. I'd give it more effort with a better sink... but for now it'll do as is :).
The PRO would be the perfect P67 board if it had power and reset buttons, but unfortunately you have to shell out an extra $20 for them on the EVO (the only other thing you get is dual-LAN, which at least for me is not that useful).Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenTiger
Quote:
Originally Posted by crossg
Thanks, the options are only + or -. BIOS voltage was reading 1.2, so I set +0.150 and it correctly changed to 1.34-1.35. However, when I load IntelBurnTest in windows, CPUID HM, CPU-Z, and Asus software all show it increases to 1.5+.Quote:
Originally Posted by illuminati-hwt
I tried under CPU Power management, a setting called "Additional Turbo Voltage" and set it to the minimum of 0.004 hoping it would stop over-volting without me telling it to. Unfortunately, this made no difference.
I also cannot disable SpeedStep without losing the ability to change CPU multiplier. :shrug:
I'm not looking to break any records here, but I would like to find the upper limit of the chip @ 1.3ish vcore.
"Above you can see the VID change from 1.23 to 1.370 for 3.4 to 4.5 GHz automatically, if this occurs SVID is working properly."Quote:
Originally Posted by Acurax
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte...ce-review.html
Maybe CPU Voltage = SVID +/- offset volt. Kinda makes sense..
Then dial back offset to 0.0 and just oc. Boot to Windows and see volt in CPU-z (or just in bios). If it goes over your preferred 1.3v, then use negative offset and keep ocing till the limit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by illuminati-hwt
Thanks to all for explanation :)Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenTiger
then I'll go for extra + 35$ to pro version
I'm looking prices on newegg for those boards ant they are half cheaper then at my country :shakes:
Thanks again! I was reading through the guide and am already trying negative offsets as you suggested.Quote:
Originally Posted by illuminati-hwt
Some screens of my settings May help. Not a photographer by trade.:rolleyes:
Advanced is where I turn on Turbo and turn off Speed step.
I tried 5Ghz @ 1.375v and it wouldn't boot in to windows. Here is a screen of 4.7 with the same settings that were posted at the beginning of this thread. This is being cooled by a Corsair H50 (which i must say was a breeze to install and keeps this thing cool!)
Anyone else having cold boot issues? I cant seem to fix them, it always double or triple boots or sometimes not at all. And this is stock or OCed doesnt matter. Anything from a cold boot is flips out.
Yes. First post in this thread illuminati-hwt supplied a link that deals with the cold boot.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by flutie98
It almost seems as if 1.375 is dead stable for 4.7...however it wont boot into windows @ 4.8 :(
Quick question... I'm loading at about 73-75c with my Xigmatek S1283 with the stock fan. I gather the fan it comes with is pretty bad for cooling (very quiet but something like 52cfm rated). Would getting a Scythe S-Flex SFF21G 120mm fan for it like this: http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-S-FLEX-...dp/B001JKTQM8/ improve the temperatures significantly? From various reviews of a similar sink (CoolerMaster Hyper 212) the better fan makes an ~8c change... would this be reasonable to expect in my situation? Chasis is a CoolerMaster RC690. I want more clocks but the thermals are getting too rough if I push the voltage up... as in 81c-83c. Also looking at http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...l?tl=g36c15s60
Hm, I guess while I'm at it... anyone have a comparison of Arctic Cooling's Ceramique (which I use) vs. the newer MX-2/MX-3/MX-4 pastes?
I'd like to get the cooling under control if I can... fan is my #1 concern at the moment, really though... then push for 5ghz+ :).
I had that. Enabled Internal CPU PLL Overvoltage and it booted into Windows (kept having the rotating windows freeze up). Did you try it?Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadmanX
Do you have Internal PLL voltage enabled? I can boot to 4.8 at around 1.3300v, Not stability tested yet and it may require a lot more. Each chip is different.1.375 is not the limit and if you step up the voltage one notch at a time you'll get there. Just watch your temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadmanX
@GoldenTiger I run an el-cheapo Antec 120 fan but it runs @ 1600 Rpm and cools quite nicely. The one that comes with my cooler runs @1400 Rpm and I noticed a difference. Not that noisey either.
I like Arctic Silver ceramic as well but I have some IC diamond on order to test.:)
MX-2/TX-2, MX-4/TX-4 are much better than ceramique which dries out after a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenTiger
Yeah, I noticed when removing my i7 920's application that it had really not aged well... any real temperature difference offhand, or is it within 1-2c or so? I'll probably grab an MX-4 tube just for the whole "it doesn't dry out" factor, anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by dengyong
Thanks, you know I actually just realized I have a bunch of 72ish CFM fans (Yate Loons) sitting in a drawer! I think I'll attach one and see if it helps :D . EDIT: These things http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-12...d-pr-3770.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by crossg
ya i can boot into windows 4.7 @ 1.375v but prime95 makes it BSOD after like 20 seconds lol!
Just noticed something and this has happened a couple of times. In the screens of Bios I posted in post 35. The CPU voltage is set to Auto. I use ASUS OC profile to save my settings and it looks like it's not saving the Cpu voltage but it saves everything else. This happened once before when I got a CPU voltage high warning I went looking and the voltage was at Auto for 5.0 Ghz. 1.550 core voltage. :eek: Maybe just re-check your settings if you have used the OC profile to restore settings.
I don't know an exact number difference because I change too many things at once to have an accurate test.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenTiger
MX-2/TX-2 can be applied just like AS-5 or ceramique, but TX-4/MX-4 needs to be spread and comes with a plastic tool (tuniq does at least). The trick is to apply lots of downward pressure while spreading otherwise it behaves like silly putty, sliding or rolling up. Once you get the hang of it it's easy and goes on evenly.
Alright....Having some fun playing with all these settings posted in this thread.
Many thanks to all those who are helping...everyone...
I've been running Prime95 and my temperatures are looking good. 1 Core fails within 10 minutes, but I'm working on it.
If I disable Speed Step, my overclock fails within seconds, leaving it on allows me to run Prime95 just fine.
4.8ghz 1.38V and temps don't go past 65c or so, again, this is using my old Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme with a single fan.
A few more questions though...
1: What is the difference between BY ALL CORES and BY PER CORE?
2:What is considered the safe voltage for these new I7 CPU's?
3: I noticed that my RAM runs @ 1:5 666mhz and I could swear I saw it @ 800mhz before....don't know how?
4: Where in the motherboard is the RTC RAM switch?
Thanks again!
Having some issues before I start to overclock. CPU-Z keeps showing my CPU being downclocked to 1.6ghz. Even with speedstep and C1E disabled. Am I missing something new?
Some useful info for the first page :
http://www.bjorn3d.com/Material/revi.../feature15.jpg
Yes, you need to stress your CPU to see the overclock - you also need to leave Turbo and SpeedStep on (C1E is on for me, I think that's needed too)Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewL1950