OK guys, so do you think a single 240mm rad will cool my overclocked i7 (1.4Vcore)
? a swiftech or black ice rad.
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OK guys, so do you think a single 240mm rad will cool my overclocked i7 (1.4Vcore)
? a swiftech or black ice rad.
Yes, a single 240 will do fine, but if you want to add anything to the loop, like your video card, then you will need a 360. For the few $ more, it is best to go with a 360 from the start.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Equinediver
It seems most guys are running 360s on the I7 around here looking for that extra little bit. Plus the larger surface area should allow you to run the fans a little slower if noise is a concern for you.
edit: All the HW Labs (except the new SR1s) are high FPI rads. This means they due a great job of transferring heat, but require high speed fans to do it. If a fan louder than 40 DBs is too loud for you, I would look into XSPC RX series, ThermoChill, and the SR1s as they are low FPI rads and perform great with slower fans.
The Swiftech doesn't perform quite as well as the others, but still performs really well for the money. If you are on a budget, the Swiftech rads are an excellent buy. :up:
Nice job Conundrum!! Very detailed post with a ton of useful information. Outstanding job in helping a new water cooler.
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:
Thanks Utnorris, it gets cut n pasted a lot on a few other forums. Just wish some would slow slow slow down and learn first.
Yea i was looking at the 24cm rad because it can fit where the drive bays are in my Antec 900, a 36cm rad will barely fit thats why.
I am still wondering where I am going to put the rad. Somwhere where it sucks the room air, and blows it off into the room, not inside the case.
Ohh you mean a 120x2 sized rad. Or a MCR 220 Or an XSPC RX240. Or a Black Ice 240 SR-1.
Look in the mods section at the top of this forum, you'll get LOTS of ideas.
Many just mount it off the back of the case. Don't limit your rad size because it has to fit, you have to overcome physics first, ie enough cooling.
Seems he is referring to thickness of the rad. IIRC those are the thicknesses of the GTS and Swifty.Quote:
Originally Posted by Conumdrum
Ohh ya, gotcha. 24mm is like the MCR series or is it closer to 30mm? Seen lots of MCR220's in the front of an Antec 900.
MCRs are like 34mm the GTS' were the skinny ones. Only downfall is those GTS' need the higher speeds fans, or a push/pull config to work right.
Yea, I looked it up. Yep, you need big fannage to make those perform like a more modern radiator. Seen the MCR220 in the front of an Antec 900, it's a very good solution.
OP: How much modding? Look at this link, find your case.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=223835
OK, so thicker rad = better, I am going to go with a 3x120mm rad, (36cm), because I am going to put it on top of my case,
sitting on its side. Like this:: http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/1372/mycooling.png. Is this going to be a problem for the big pump to push all the water up like that? And I want to get the thicker rad because thicker = better
Edit:: What is better: Black Ice GT Stealth 360 OR Swiftech MCR320-QP?
I am looking to maybe get one of these
Between those two, it's not the thickness, it is the amount of fins per inch. The GTS has more than the MCR 320.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
For out right performance, the GTS is the best, but you need to use fans like these to get that performance: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwvVs67DFWY
The MCR320 works better with slower, quieter, fans. It all depends on the what you prefer :up:
Very good summary Conundrum. It's frustrating for WC newbies in that the information is there but it takes so long to read and digest. Sometimes you just want someone to answer your specific questions...which will always lead to further questions. With technology/equipment changing some of the old school methodologies are just plain wrong ....some of the new school plain petty!! I've been watercooling for a decade mainly because it delivers performance and an element of customisation to a rig. The water cooled Gallery http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=water+gallery is a site to behold.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Conumdrum
Anyway Misho a swiftech kit would be a good start, then later you can start swapping bits in and out. Planning is the key ...I've been planning one for a year now :D. A spare case to dremel might also be a good start lmao
Hey guys, so far This is my list:
Block: Swiftech apogee gtz
Rad: Swiftech MCR320 Quiet Power
Pump: Swiftech MCP655
Res: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO REV2
Tubing: Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT Clear
Still dont know which barb fittings, and what additive to the distilled water.
Edit: So for coolant I just use distilled water(getting from local food store is ok right?), and the Silver KillCoils by iandh, but what about additives for the corrosion? ( i dont need colour in my cooling)
You can just use an anti-algae additive from the pet store instead of the silver coils. You do not need to worry about anti-corrosive because you are not mixing metals. I would get a MCP355 pump and XSPC res top instead of the MCP655 and Micro res. Cost will be about the same, but better performance, plus you eliminate two fittings and the need for tubing between the res and pump. Probably be easier to place in your case also. Check out Jab-tech.com for the Swiftech GTZ, I believe it's the best price around:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-Apo...k-pr-4246.html
Here is the pump I was talking about:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP...p-pr-3510.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic...C-pr-4123.html
The rad:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR...r-pr-3320.html
Tubing:
http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pr...D-pr-4116.html
or even better:
http://www.jab-tech.com/ClearFLEX-60...D-pr-2431.html
And then these fittings, they are compression and run a little more, but they have a cleaner look and work great:
http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoChill-G...r-pr-4487.html
If you want to do silver instead of the anti-algea aditive, then do this:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Antimicrobia...p-pr-4530.html
For color and anti-algea I always like this:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Pentosin-G11...e-pr-3707.html
Here is a link to a work log for a 900
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.asp?m=228537&mpage=1&key=
Isnt the MCP355 weaker than the MCP655???
slightly but not significantly + ur only doing a cpu only loop atm so you won't need the 655. Also the 355 is much more flexible as to location and or tops. imo the 355 tops look better than the microres :/
That seems to be a common mistake. You would think so seeing the model number is less, but that isn't the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
The MCP355 actually handles restrictive loops a little better than the D5. Overall though the 2 pumps are basically a draw when it comes to which is better overall. You won't go wrong with either one. :up:
NoQuote:
Originally Posted by misho
...Quote:
Originally Posted by Caoder
No...
The 355 > 655 in our application uses. However if u add the T3, its different.
But in a stock to stock, the 355 > 655. With simple tops, 355 > 655.
When looking at T3 tho... 655 > 355
But my dual DDC package > any T3 or dual 655 package. :P
I hate the D5.
Seriously hate it with a pasion.
Ask skinnee how many i owned at one time, and you'll see its not a blanket statement.
No the D5 is crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Caoder
Dont even look at the D5 unless your getting a T3 for it.
The reason why i say its crap is because:
1. Its big
2. Its more expensive then the 355 for less performance.
(the D5 needs to be vario otherwise its not even worth a comparision.)
3. Its Ugly even with tops compared to the 355.
4. You can fit 2 DDC's in the same footprint as 1 D5.
Not to piss off any D5 owners here, but the D5 is crap unless you get a T3.
OK so I have to buy the http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic...C-pr-4123.html reservoir to go with the MCP355 right? Can I use any reservoir or this has to go on?
Edit: The MCP355 comes with 3/8 barbs , but I am going to use 1/2 barbs, and the MCP655 is 1/2 barbs. I know i can change the barbs, will this effect the flow?
I dont like that res because it has some bleeding issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
If you dont mind the budget u can build one simular to it.
This is how i built mine:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...i/IMG_1334.jpg
Basically its the 355 with regular XSPC tops. Then i used a variable coupler between 2 Magicool 250mm res.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...i/IMG_1335.jpg
Why did i pick magicool instead of EK? A lot of people as this.
Because the Magicool has a nice place for my kill coil:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...i/IMG_1336.jpg
Its a bit more expensive, but i think it looks better then a XSPC res.
Problem with LC is u will always see something better. But i see your holding a budget. So it might be tough.
Your second question... The pump is native 3/8. Thats why u get a top.
The top allows you to install G1/4 barbs. So you can pick if u want to stay 3/8 or step up to 1/2.
You just buy the barbs for it.
Ah, i do have a budget, so I am trying to keep it low cost. I think the MCP655 is going be good for me because I can go with the cheaper solution.
You can use any reservoir you want. That is just a nice all in one package. Vapor also put a thread out about putting a using a ziptie (or something similar) to put restriction on the intake during bleeding.Quote:
Originally Posted by misho
You can use any res you want. I would suggest adding a EK top or XSPC top.