Swiftech Apogee Drive Mini Review

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09-25-2008, 03:26 PM
sirheck

Nice review.

I have two of these in two different sys.
Both have been pushing thru the cpu,NB and gpus
on an intel and an AMD for about 6 months now.
One was on an older s939 sys.

When i first used them with just the cpu only i could hear the flow.
They are much quieter with the nb and gpu,s added.

(ponders the soldering volt mod):idea:
09-25-2008, 04:07 PM
skinnee

Another great review Martin!! :up:

Thanks again!
09-25-2008, 04:51 PM
mstrmold

So, other than the bottom of the case lacking feet, I can convert my 12v Apogee to an 18v and drop a top on it? Sweet! Its been collecting dust in my garage for the past several months. :)
09-25-2008, 05:06 PM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by mstrmold

So, other than the bottom of the case lacking feet, I can convert my 12v Apogee to an 18v and drop a top on it? Sweet! Its been collecting dust in my garage for the past several months. :)

Yes, as long as it's a blue impeller pump, you can convert any of them from the normal 12V/10 Watt to a 12V/18 Watt pump by soldering a bridge across that connection. Or, you could run a switch off the two points and have it switchable 10W/18W.
09-25-2008, 10:55 PM
hotdun

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martinm210

That's good info to know..I didn't even know there was a revision.:)

Every Time I Try to Get Out, They Pull Me Right Back In!
09-26-2008, 09:42 AM
mstrmold

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martinm210

Yes, as long as it's a blue impeller pump, you can convert any of them from the normal 12V/10 Watt to a 12V/18 Watt pump by soldering a bridge across that connection. Or, you could run a switch off the two points and have it switchable 10W/18W.

Thanks Martin, it does indeed have the blue impeller, and it has a 3.3 sticker on the corner of the PCB. So, I just simply solder the last contact to the next contact to the right to go from 12v to 18v? sweeet.
09-26-2008, 09:47 AM
Big_Daddy

Quote:

Originally Posted by mstrmold

Thanks Martin, it does indeed have the blue impeller, and it has a 3.3 sticker on the corner of the PCB. So, I just simply solder the last contact to the next contact to the right to go from 12v to 18v? sweeet.

No, it goes from 10 watt to 18 watt. Not volts, always 12 volts.
09-26-2008, 10:22 AM
kumar

1 Attachment(s)

Can i put tec at the back pump to cool down.
09-26-2008, 10:23 AM
NaeKuh

Quote:

Originally Posted by kumar

Can i put tec at the back pump to cool down.

:rofl::ROTF::welcome:
09-26-2008, 10:25 AM
evil-98

we should start watercooling pumps :)

i have a feeling im going to buy another apogee drive... lol

i already have 2, but one of the fittings broke on one of them :(
09-26-2008, 12:16 PM
mstrmold

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big_Daddy

No, it goes from 10 watt to 18 watt. Not volts, always 12 volts.

Gah, sorry about that.

I'm thinking about Martin's suggestion of putting a switch outside the block in case the 18watt mode makes too much noise.
09-26-2008, 01:01 PM
ThrustSSC

Marting great review as always!
09-27-2008, 05:32 PM
nzbleach

how would you add an aftermarket top to this? are the 3/8 barbs removable? I dont get it >_<
09-27-2008, 06:13 PM
evil-98

Quote:

Originally Posted by nzbleach

how would you add an aftermarket top to this? are the 3/8 barbs removable? I dont get it >_<

you cant added a top and the barbs are not removable...

the top is part of the block, and so are the barbs.
09-27-2008, 06:25 PM
Waterlogged

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by nzbleach

how would you add an aftermarket top to this? are the 3/8 barbs removable? I dont get it >_<

Quote:

Originally Posted by evil-98

you cant added a top and the barbs are not removable...

the top is part of the block, and so are the barbs.

...but you can remove the "mount/barb" part of the unit and replace it with a standard top.
09-27-2008, 06:29 PM
Martinm210

EDIT:
Waterlogged beat me to it....I'm too slow..:)

Quote:

Originally Posted by nzbleach

how would you add an aftermarket top to this? are the 3/8 barbs removable? I dont get it >_<

This is only if you plan to dispose of the block portion of the unit. The pump motor is a Laing DDC3.1=Swiftech MCP350.

So all you have to do is remove the pump motor and add a top and you get this:

http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/img/...eeDrive-11.jpg

Same thing except you don't have the little plastic feet on the pump motor case, but if you're mounting freely (which most people do to avoid vibration noise), it works fine.

In addition many people don't know that the Laing DDC 3.1 and DDC 3.2 are the same pump motor. They simply designed it so they can make a 10 watt version or an 18 watt version. To make this difference all they do is solder one contact acros the PCB to get 18watts.

So in the end, the motor that you get in the unit is the same pump motor everyone on the forum is running when they say DDC 3.2 or MCP355, etc. it's just that it has a slightly different cover and it's currently setup to run at 10watts, but you can change that very easily.

As far as saving the block base after removing the motor. That would be more difficult. You'd have to make your own pump top, or perhaps it would fit in an old apogee or mcw-60 block top if you had one of those lying around.
09-27-2008, 07:44 PM
nzbleach

thanks for clearing that up. Just wondering, without a top and if I added/swapped for a bigger rad, could this incorporate a GPU block into the loop?
09-27-2008, 08:39 PM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by nzbleach

thanks for clearing that up. Just wondering, without a top and if I added/swapped for a bigger rad, could this incorporate a GPU block into the loop?

Oh yeah, it has a fair amount of pumping power in stock trim. Also if you wanted more pumping power you could do the 18watt mod with the stock top, but I'm not sure I'd both doing that unless you just had a bunch of blocks and restriction which isn't likely going to happen. Most of the GPU blocks and radiators are fairly low in restriciton anyway....just make sure you have enough radiator/fan to handle the extra heatload.
09-28-2008, 01:29 AM
gabe

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kibbler

Hi Martin, I greatly enjoy reading your reviews. Thanks for putting in the time and effort.

1 question, in these pics...
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/3...edrive9ct2.jpg

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/2...edrive5kw5.jpg

Any corrosion risk?

stainless of course.
09-28-2008, 01:31 AM
gabe

Quote:

Originally Posted by evil-98

i already have 2, but one of the fittings broke on one of them :(

rma - we replace that even if you broke it .
09-28-2008, 07:10 AM
sirheck

Quote:

Originally Posted by gabe

rma - we replace that even if you broke it .

Cool, thats nice to know Gabe.
I have two of them but havent broke them...Yet.

Im always careful when changing tubing or adding something else.
09-30-2008, 04:38 AM
TI66ER

Gabe,if i put a switch on it to switch from 10-18w,is it ok to switch it from one to the other setting while it is powered up?

Thanks

TI66ER
09-30-2008, 06:31 AM
Pub_Randy**

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martinm210

EDIT:
all you have to do is remove the pump motor and add a top and you get this:

http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/img/...eeDrive-11.jpg

Same thing except you don't have the little plastic feet on the pump motor case, but if you're mounting freely (which most people do to avoid vibration noise), it works fine.

Haha, nice.

You can buy the H20-120 kit here in AUS for like $75AUD and an XSPC top for $27.50AUD

Thats $12.50 cheaper than an MCP350 which we'd pay $115AUD for.. with a better top! and a free radiator :up::up::up:
09-30-2008, 03:27 PM
_G_

Quote:

Originally Posted by TI66ER

Gabe,if i put a switch on it to switch from 10-18w,is it ok to switch it from one to the other setting while it is powered up?

Thanks

TI66ER

Im pretty sure that would work but im also pretty sure that would void youre waranty on the pump part. lol
12-10-2008, 09:36 PM
douirc

I want to mount a 120x2 inside my Antec 1200 Twelve Hundred rear fans, paired with an Apogee Drive. What's the right rad to pair with this block? Is a PA120.2 a good match, or maybe a DD Black Ice GT Stealth since it's less stressfull (less passes)? Of course, I could always mod the drive for 18w, assuming it's the right pump and all I need to do is solder the two points together. I would assume at 18w the PA120.2 is no sweat?

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