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I was checking a e2140 tonight, it was flat. As far as I could tell it was flat, using a razor blade and holding it up to the light, there was no leakage, trying different angles across the top as far as i could tell was flat as.
I used the same razor on a GPU heatsink i was lapping on the weekend so i know the razor is good. Are all CPU's supposed to be concave or only some. I'd bank on that this one is flat. good temps too, 30's under TT BT idle 56 load.
I tried lapping my IHS and if you do it on the sandpaper, you can see that the edges come off first then the middle part.
Here is a pic of my old X3210 with the IHS grinded of.
I tried to remove the IHS from my 2180 today but had no luck. I couldn't even get the razor blades under the 4 corners :(
Heres my E2140.
http://shrani.si/t/3T/4t/2Qd5AKai/dscn0773.jpg http://shrani.si/t/1C/v0/1EynH5AZ/dscn0774.jpg
Its hard to cut into the rubber sealant because its application is very thin, much thinner than on A64 chips. I have used a fresh razorblade for the action. In order to succed you must cut very low, very near the PCB itself and then tilt the razorblade upwards so you don't cut the traces accidentaly.
thats awesome work tiborrr what results are you seeing from the chip without the IHS?
It looks as though the IHS is not soldered on. Which is a good thing (or bad depending on what your doing with your cpu)
i wrecked two e4300's doing this while using a utility knife blade (what a noob)
Anyway, just take your time, go slow, work at the corners, and make sure your using a RAZOR BLADE (not a utility knife blade which is much thicker.)
chatmaster - somehow i haven't had time to test the temperatures after the procedure, since my DFI died, i will try it tommorow with the P5KC i just bought. After the IHS removal i reapplied the lid back on when the chip was in socket (AS ceramique TIM used) and put it under 2-stage cascade. Unfortunately the P5K doesnt show negative temperatures so you will have to wait for a day or two for me to take proper measurements :D
That is just damn cool, was it soldered?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nanok
Do you think cpu without HS can take Tuniq or Gemin2 or something?
Wouldn't be bad idea to use some kind of shim with it!
I was thinking to remove mine too but instead i was wondering, could a stock intel cooler be on the cpu without the IHS?
Hope so but im not for sure...... it would realy suck if the stock cooler wont fit anymore :(
you could always remove the lid. http://thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=23
btw, why would u use the stock cooler?
Been there done that... a naked e6600... temps only dropped 3c though... ah well 3c is enough :D
you have to force it in.Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
Did my e2160 today... it wasn't too bad to do. I was more nervous than anything, but once I got into it, I was determined. In the end, the chip survived and is now topless.
I started off with a standard razor blade, like one used in box cutters or scrapers... but then realized it was too thick. So I broke out a triple blade razor (generic Target brand) and took the blades out. They are perfect for this job. I was able to slide it under one corner and just cut around. Quite simple once I got it under. I think I could do another chip in a matter of minutes now.
To confirm, my e2160 wasn't soldered to the IHS, they seemed to use the same thing ASUS uses on the NB. Some sort of Thermal Gum/Soft Epoxy.
As for temperature results... I haven't got that far yet, I am having issued with mounting the heatsink without the IHS, I have come up with a plan, just haven't finished yet. I will update once I have results.
Yup, i got like 3-4degC temperature drop after reapplying the IHS with some AS Ceramique TIM. Well, better than nothing :D
Cuz my optional cooling aint done yet :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Boogerlad
And i want to see what i can do with the stock cooler and then every degree lower should help :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMysticWizard
How thick does that slop look between the die and IHS? Is it 8800 cooler style thick or ???
I have a 2180 that I suspect is needing some work such as you are doing.
Did you pull the NB cooler off your Asus board? It looks like that... like they applied a square a little bigger than the core that was about 1/32 inch thick.Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyM
Atleast that's how mine looked.
Why would your remove the ISH, with a geminii and 2 120mm fans my E2140 (ES) will hit a load temp of 34C at with a 2.9Ghz overclock
Maybe cuz 2.9GHz aint enough :clap:
stevil is %100 correct,listen to him...:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
Come on guys im dying to find out what your temperatures are like and if you can break through the FSB walls.
I got my hands on a second hand e6300 that im planning to lap @ 1.4v its 72*C +
cant get the blade under any corner
this is bad. i soaked it in nail polish remover all night, and now im sure its in it too. HAVE to remove the IHS.
i even tried cutting it under the rubber sealant. no luck. any ideas?
@ LightSpeed
You should be able to get a really thin shaving-blade under there. It's like trying to cut a hole in a tire with a toothpick at first, so you will need to use a good amount of force. The rubber-glue (black stuff in this pic):
http://shrani.si/t/3T/4t/2Qd5AKai/dscn0773.jpg
will be the same on your's, so be really, really carefull not to put the blade in the center where the core is. My first try with this, was on an old celly, and i did manage to break the core in the corners, not realizing what i was doing (untill i heard the crunching sound of the blade scraping the core).
It's really a matter of having the right tools for this operation. Look in you'r household (or go buy some) razorblades (shaving-blades), of different size and thinkness. Once you get a small blade, just about ½ a mm in under the IHS, then apply upward, and outwards pressure. You should when be able to get some of the black rubber glue out from under it, and it you are lucky, you can get a more solid blade under there (one you can apply more pressure to).
From there on, it's a matter of patience. You will get it off eventually.
Remember, that once you can get a blade under the IHS all the way around, you need to heat up the IHS, so the solder between the core and the IHS will let go. You can use a household hairdrier for this operation.
Good luck!