Very nice! Looking great so far. Happy to see another 343B build going up :up:
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Very nice! Looking great so far. Happy to see another 343B build going up :up:
Different looking can in Oz
Looking good so far m8!
I'll keep an eye on that project ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ~aoe~
To clean a powder coated case use non abrasive car wax and 100% cotton cloth. Not only does it clean it, but gives it a nice shine and protects from future fingerprinting.
I'll try that on my U2-UFO, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainMods
Yeah, they do have a presence here, but finding a reseller with the specific products you need is a bit more difficult.
I'll keep trying.
PS Not speaking the language fluently doesn't help...
I bet!Quote:
Originally Posted by ~aoe~
It's a trip being the "wog" in another land. I find I turn into this very animated mime style wog. Charades contestant of the year.
"Look ma, the crazy foreigner is here again"
"Remember when he wanted to buy toilet paper!"
We could make an own 343b area here :D
Nice work ~aoe~ :top:
Well I hope it is not too loud with the Yate Loons behinde the LianLi-frame. Did not really test that yet. I better do before my Hardware is moving into the case ;)
Firstly, the reason for no updates recently is that I'm still waiting for the components I need to complete the build. Good news is that they are now on their way. Bad news is that I've decided to revise the build a bit.
After running the temporary setup for a few weeks (filter installed), the tubing has gone cloudy yet again :shakes:
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/912/cloudyxr1.jpg
Yes - the water in the reservoir does have a pinkish tinge to it :mad:
This is after considerable time and effort was invested in trying to clean the radiator; in total: 2 x 1/2 hour soaks in vinegar, 2 x overnight soaks in distilled water, and countless litres of hot/cold distilled water to flush :shrug:
As a result of my inability to properly clean the radiator, I have decided to use black tubing :D
My first thought was to stay with the connectors I've got and use 1/2" tygon, and I have more than enough winging it's way to me from sunny Wales (together with the laser-cut top panel for the PA120.2 and some other stuff). However, I've been watching the water cooled gallery and have seen some great builds using compression fittings. I have therefore decided (today) to do the same and have just ordered a bunch of new compression fittings and some black 10/8mm tubing and some funky red smartcoils.
I expect (fingers crossed) to receive all of the components I need to complete the build within the next week. Once here, I'll devote all my time to completing this build and post progress reports as I go.
I so want this completed - I've got:
- a stripped 8800GTX that's been sitting here for months waiting to be installed (and overclocked :D)
- OEM Vista 64 Ultimate that's been sitting here for months waiting to be installed
- Bioshock that's been sitting here for months waiting to be installed
- Crysis that's on it's way from the UK
- Call of Duty 4 that's also on it's way from the UK
Thankfully, I've got Valve's Orange Box to keep me sane whilst I wait.
The top panel arrived today :D
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/5725/toppanelpb2.jpg
Thanks to 'WelshTom' at Chilled PC UK for arranging the cutting :up:. I wasted so much time trying to get it done in Spain :shakes:
I expect the rest of the components to arrive early next week (new fittings and tubing) so hope to be able to complete the build by the end of the week. I've also got the new Enzotech NB block on order:
http://www.enzotechnology.com/images...sli_photo4.jpg
http://www.enzotechnology.com/images...sli_photo2.jpg
Thought I might give this a try. With the fins, it looks like it may cool slightly better than the MCW30, and it doesn't look as if it would be restrictive. If anyone has any experience with this block, please feel free to comment.
Today I made a start cleaning the radiators in preparation (PA120.3 and PA120.2). So far I've got through 10 litres of distilled water, and there's still lots of crap coming out of them. I'm currently boiling the water, filling them up, then leaving them for 15-30mins before emptying. I'll keep doing this until the water comes out clean - this could take some days :rolleyes:
I believe the end is in site...
Great job on the top panel, this give me confidence on Tom's work with my own custom jobs request :)
Well, more delays affecting the completion of this build.
Firstly, after receiving all the new Alphacool compression fittings and tubing, I tested the fittings in the blocks and had some concerns. The o-rings are very small on the fittings, and also retained in a groove. The MCW30 and MCW60 are designed for larger o-rings and have their own retention groove. as such, it makes it difficult to tighten the fittings far enough to provide a good seal. Also, the o-rings will not sit on the flat surface provided by the blocks required to provide a good seal.
Here's a pic of the o-rings that were pre-fitted to the various fittings I have:
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/9773/oringsiq8.jpg
From left to right (largest to smallest), we have:
1. Swiftech standard plastic fitting supplied with MCW30 and MCW60
2. Swiftech standard metal fitting supplied with Apogee GTX
3. D-Tek G¼ ½" fitting
4. Alphacool G¼ 10/8mm compression fitting
To give you an idea of where the o-rings will sit on the MCW30 and Apogee GTX, here's a couple more pics:
http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/8...ngmcw30bk5.jpg
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/243/oringgtxdz2.jpg
As you can see, the o-rings will try and seal against the screw threads and not the flat surface where they are intended to seal. Bottom line is that I'm not comfortable using these fittings with any of the blocks I'm using.
In addition, I couldn't get the 10/8mm tubing to bend between CPU and NB block without kinking. The coils I ordered were not suitable, and the only ones I can find are the metallic type (which I really don't want to use).
So, as a result I've decided to go back to the Tygon black ½" tubing.
However, this doesn't fully explain the delay as I have all the components required to complete the build with the ½" tubing (except the coils which are probably not necessary). This comes back to the choice of using the black tubing. I decided this week that the overall look will be odd if I don't paint the interior black. Also note that I saw SiNiSon's Murderbox on the Water Cooled Case Gallery and was blown away. So, I've given the chassis to a friend and he's going to paint it matt black :D
I expect to have this back on Thursday and with any luck I should also have the coils by then also.
I got my copper top too a week ago and my black 1/2" tygon is on his way :D
I think our taste is similar ;)
Matt will really show the dust and finger prints. I'd consider a semi-gloss, or at least see a trial piece of metal painted before you commit your case.
Good luck. Hope its running soon.
Dust and finger prints you say...:shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Part of the reason for deciding to paint the internals was because I couldn't clean the finger prints :doh:
I do have some latex gloves that I could use whilst assembling - hopefully if I'm careful, this may keep the surfaces clean. I suppose I could always repaint it if it does become a problem.
I'm just so frustrated at the moment that it's taken so long and it's still not complete, so I'm just going to go ahead and finish the damn thing so I can play these games that are sat here :rofl:
BTW, I do like that 7" TFT you've shown in your thread. Do you have any details on it? Not sure where I could install it, but it does look cool :eek:
I hope you plan to either provide a build log or at least show some pics :DQuote:
Originally Posted by dnb#
I've recently done some system implementation work in Tilburg for an office furniture manufacturer. Would be weird if we knew each other :shocked:
who are you than? I'm Bastiaan v. Berkel :D
Real name is Steve. I don't recognise your name, but then again Tilburg isn't exactly a small village :D.
I guess I was sorta thinking out loud before. It's amazing how small this world has become though, and it's no longer such a surprise meeting people I know in unusual places (and what could be more unusual than here :rofl:)
Hunting down info on that 7" TFT currently. I'll post all I get.
Its a long term idea for me.
Right now I'm like you. Want it running to use. Will slowly finish it off. Modding never really ends I find.
:ROTF: :ROTF: :ROTF: :rofl: (I really need a smilie falling of his chair laughing for this though)Quote:
Originally Posted by ~aoe~
That is far from being a reasonable means to check if the o-rings are going to work properly. They need to be on the fitting that you are going to use to be able to judge them. Try it again the right way and I doubt you'll have any o-rings go into the threads. ;)
omg lol, don't worry about the o rings, they wont go into the threads when they are stretched around the fitting itself, you are being super paranoid.
He's not being paranoid, yes they stretch around the barb and won't go into the thread but that in it's own isn't enough to make them leak proof.
The O-Ring needs to compress against two surfaces, and I don't see it happening with the GTX copper top unless the compression fitting actually fits inside the O-Ring recess that Swiftech milled into the top.
what are the black stand-offs on the apogee for? i've never seen someone purposely limit the mounting pressure on a cpu block before.
The stand-offs are distributed as official Swiftech parts, when you buy an Apogee GTX now :p
I just started an own thread here: Worklog - Lian Li PC 343b built coming with 2 Loops
That is exactly my concern :up:. I'm not worried about the o-rings falling into the threads, I'm just not confident they will seal correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mekrel
There are 2 basic designs around: Swiftech (and others?) provide the recess on their blocks to prevent the o-ring from spreading and use non-recessed o-rings on their fittings; others such as D-Tek and Alphacool provide the o-ring recess on their fittings. Here are the different fittings:
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/7948/fittingsuu7.jpg
Left to right:
1. Swiftech
2. D-tek
3. Alphacool
The Swiftech fitting has a nice fat o-ring and is not recessed. The recess on the Swiftech blocks will provide the correct mating surface and prevent spreading of the o-ring. The other 2 fittings have recessed o-rings and are ideal for mating with flat surfaces (reservoirs, radiators, etc.). In my opinion, these 2 designs are not compatible.
You may consider me over-cautious, but it's a risk I'm not prepared to take.