just preference really...color is more blingy...*-)
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just preference really...color is more blingy...*-)
Yeah. The only other thing I like about color is it's easier to see the air bubbles. :) I had to look real close to find the small bubble in this clear tubing on clear coolant.
I just wish I could test it! Dang the bad luck.
Dateranoth
maybe when you get new mobo in...drain most of your loop and refill with some color?
dead mobo sucks but evga has great support i should know
btw: if u ever do a revision an ek tube resevior mounted vertically next to the mobo should free up those bays where the micro res is
lookin good tho as it's not easy to wc a small case
Thanks :) . I was actually thinking of mounting the micro res there, but it was to deep. The nozzles ended up being too close to the outside of the case. Thankfully I don't need those bays :) and to tell you the truth, if I do a revision it will probably be with a T-line. I thought the micro res would be a snap bleeding the air is the only reason I used it. However, it turned out that the pump was pulling so hard and fast that it actually was pulling the air right back through before it had a chance to bleed out! haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by coolrmaster
I will admit that the res did allow me to leave it running and bleed some of the smaller bubbles with ease. Thanks for the input though, I will certainly keep that in mind!
Dateranoth
Well, my mobo finally shipped out from EVGA. It is scheduled to arrive Tuesday of next week. I have also ordered some of the High Speed Yate Loons which I am going to use to replace the low speed ones I currently have. The fan controller is almost useless on the low speed ones so I figure I'll have more head room with the high speed fans.
Once I get it all installed I'll update again with some temps... finally :)
Dateranoth
nice setup
but imho using 3 fans on the top of the rad is a must to protect it or atleast a grill
Ah, you mean to protect the fins? Yeah... I've been mulling it over, but I can't think of what I want to put over it that would look good. Ideally I would like to build an aluminum shroud around it with a grill on the shroud. To both blend it with the case and protect it. I just have to think up a way to do it :)Quote:
Originally Posted by SaFrOuT
Dateranoth
Well, my new mobo finally showed up last week. Along with 3 high speed yate loons and some thermal paste. Some quick numbers:
3.2Ghz @ 1.38v
44C Idle
53C Load
Just reformatted, so I don't have the gpu numbers yet, but I think they were around 45C. I ran a 10 hour orthos before I reformatted, and it was stable, but I need to do some further voltage tweaking and what not. I'll post more numbers and pictures within the week.
I did have one major problem that I did not fix and need help solving. In my stupidity, when I sent the mobo back I took the cpu block off of course. I then left it attached to the loop in the case. This would have been fine, but I accidently touched it in all my frustration. The finger prints ended up tarnishing it somehow. You can clearly make out my finger prints on the block. I cleaned it the best I could but the finger prints won't go away. I hate to think that the only solution now is to lap it. Any suggestions? The block is currently installed with finger prints. Do you think my temps are greatly effected by it?
Thanks,
Dateranoth
Vinegar, or ketchup, goo gone will all work for taken off finger prints among other thigns.
Microfiber cloth and the Arctic Cleaner kit works well. Any pics of your new setup?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dateranoth
Actually, I meant corrosion. Like, somehow the oil from my fingers corroded the copper. I can't FEEL any grooves or anything but I can SEE distinctly, my finger print on the center of the block. I tried AS cleaner, vineger and all sorts of stuff, but it just won't come off. It feels smooth and still has a mirror look, but the finger print is there... Any suggestions?
As for the pictures, nothing has changed from the last set I posted on the first page of this Thread :) . Well, aside from the fans and mobo, but they all look exactly the same ;).
Thanks,
Dateranoth
I like the no color tubes a lot more than the standard colors. It showcases the beauty of R-3603. Congratulations. I don't have a great fondness for the Pentosin blue color.
Sorry just expressing my opinion.
for the block, i guess lapping would work
Thanks, I'm pretty happy with my setup now. Besides, I don't have a case window in yet sooo.. not much to look at :) function over form for meQuote:
Originally Posted by IanY
Dateranoth
Well, I have finally ran all the tests. I can now share the temperatures with you guys. I'll start from the beginning.. Just for kicks.
Using the stock intel fan I got these numbers:
Original factory setup 25C ambient
CPU @ 3.1Ghz Overclocked : 69C (load)
GPU @ stock: 58C ( idle ) 85C ( load )
Here's a picture. Note the temps after only 1 minute of orthos :)
STOCK FANS 3.1Ghz No water cooling installed:
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/649...coolingiv5.jpg
3D Galaxy II with only CPU in loop 25C ambient
CPU @ 3.2Ghz Overclocked: 54C ( idle ) 62C ( load )
GPU @ stock: 59C ( idle ) 85C ( load )
Water Cooled CPU ONLY ( 3d Galaxy II ) 10 hour orthos
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3...ycpuorthos.jpg
3D Galaxy II with CPU AND GPU in loop 26C ambient
CPU @ 3.2Ghz Overclocked: 69C ( load )
GPU @ stock 55C ( load )
NO picture for above tests.
NEW watercooled setup @ 27C ambient:
CPU @ 3.2Ghz Overclocked after 24 hour orthos: 43C ( idle ) 53C ( CPU load ) 45C ( GPU load )
GPU @ 648mhz Overclocked after 24 hour orthos run: 41C ( idle ) 41C ( CPU load ) 43C ( GPU load )
Pictures:
24 hour Orthos Run CPU Stress test: ( CPU load )
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/166...punewloxj6.jpg
24 hour Orthos Ran. GPU then stress tested: ( GPU load )
http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/4...rorthosbz6.jpg
Idle system after 24 hour Orthos Run: ( Idle )
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/254...oopidleee8.jpg
Well. That pretty much sums it up. Do those temps seem about right to you all? I am extremely happy myself. Even thinking of pushing the CPU overclock some more. However, right now I'm still trying to get the old pump from the 3d galaxy cleaned and working. I sent it in for RMA and the sons of *****es just sent me the same freaking unit right back without doing anything to it.
Also, on another note. I have the GPU memory clocked at 972mhz and the Uni-Sink ( which I finally got to seat through methods listed earlier in the thread ) seems to be working great.
Overall I am very happy. Thanks again for all of your support. Hope the log might be useful to some as others logs were useful to me.
Dateranoth
nice temps :)
got any pics of the final system ??
Here's a final picture. Case still needs to be cleaned, but that's what she looks like. Nothing internal has changed from the last page.
http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/9...aseshotxs6.jpg
Well, as an update. I finally had to replace my psu. Whenever I shutdown my computer I would have to turn the psu off at the switch or unplug it. So, went to BB bought an identical though higher revision PSU. Installed it and returned the old one. And tada. Finally after all the trouble, a working computer and WC setup.
Also, I ran some vinegar through the old pump and I think I got it working again. Dunno what I'm gonna do with it but at least it works now.
Dateranoth
Just wanted to update this log. I purchased the newest 8800GTX Uni-Sink when it came out, and have just recently found the time to install it on my GTX. I had to purchase 4 extra screws to make it compatible with my MCW60. With 4 M2x20mm screws ( with Uni-Sink included M2 nuts screwed all the way up to the heasd of the screws ) the MCW60 makes a perfect fit into the new Uni-Sink using the Swiftech provided springs and spacers.
Installed Uni-Sink ( Sorry no out of case pictures, forgot to take them )
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/849...nisink1ps9.jpg
Closeup of Screws used to Mount MCW60:
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/495...nisink2jc2.jpg
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/507...nisink3ix9.jpg
Dateranoth
Looks really nice.
Though I am not a huge fan of the radiator on top, I like your setup!
Thanks. I've been wanting to build something around it, but I don't have the resources to do so where I'm currently living. So, I've been thinking that some sort of shrowd ( filters maybe? ) to put over the Rad would make it a little more pleasing to the eye.
Dateranoth
Looks very nice!
Great job mate :up:
Interesting mount for your MCW60 to Uni-sink. Good job.
Here is mine:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...hlight=unisink
Maybe I did it the hard way by drilling out the four corners to get the MCW60 hardware to work.
So you used four new M2x20 screws and threaded them into the tapped nut on the unisink? Or did you go all the way through to the back of the graphics card?
Yeah, I threaded them into the unisink. On the back side I used the Uni-Sink provided M2 screws with springs to tighten the Uni-sink around the core. I was going to drill through myself, but I decided to purchase the other size screws instead. For resale value mainly. I bought two lengths, 16mm and 20mm . The 16s were too short, and it just so happened that the 20 mm, with the M2 nuts that came with the Uni-Sink screwed on them worked perfectly. Even with the other screw in place from the back side, I still managed a great fit without cutting the 20mm screws at all.
Picture of BackSide of 8800GTX showing M2 screws holding on Uni-Sink around core.
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/3280/gpubackdj1.jpg
Dateranoth
P.S.
And on a side note, I have been able to increase the memory clock with this new Uni-Sink as compared to my old one. But, I've only done a few tests and they've shown not by much. However, I still like this design far more than the old one. It requires far less modification than the old one ( if you look back at how I did the original one you'll see why ). Not to mention the shader core is much cooler now.
D
Thank you for the detailed response. I now wish I would have thought of your method. Live and learn.