Cold boot issues on DFI, i need testers

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Originally Posted by Crazykooter

There is a guy at DFI-Street who tried the boost to see if it fixed the cold boot and it didnt. ATM there is the new abit board which vdimm goes to 3.55 but its very $$$$$$$$$$$$ and may not oc as well as DFI does. I am waiting for the release of the ATI board. I too get cold boots and its frustrating!!!! :dammit: :brick:

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The booster will be more likely to help people who use it from the beginning, if you are referring to Ozsnoal when he used the booster, his memory was damaged too much before he tried it in my opinion, if he had used it from the start i think it would have been ok.

If you get a new board and booster, please let us know how it turns out...at least we will know for sure if the board is the problem.

Boosting the already toasted sticks wont help your situation though, youll need fresh memory too i bet.

Agree with you, my one stick was toast already.

And the OCZ booster did not help - but as dsumanik says, the stick was too far gone already.

Single I write this informing my experience.

In MOBO DFI NF4 any problem can create a "Cold BooT".

In my case and without apparent reason, after reinitiating the system it did not start. I tried everything and even it continued seeing 3 LEDs ignited, tries proven part by part until giving account me that what caused the problem was small a dirty one in the contacts of the V.CARD.

This is single my case, but it can help to somebody with a similar problem.

Now the Board is working perfect.

Until soon

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dsumanik

The booster will be more likely to help people who use it from the beginning, if you are referring to Ozsnoal when he used the booster, his memory was damaged too much before he tried it in my opinion, if he had used it from the start i think it would have been ok.

If you get a new board and booster, please let us know how it turns out...at least we will know for sure if the board is the problem.

Boosting the already toasted sticks wont help your situation though, youll need fresh memory too i bet.

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I would have to agree there with the new board new stix thing. But in my case it didnt just take out 1 stick it got both. Which is odd since I have not seen anyone else have the same thing as me. I do wonder tho if I stuck these in a diff board if they would post out fine? If it means that sticks are bad is why we are getting cold boot then it means the dfi settings are toasting our sticks. Now that is not gonna be fixed by a bios IMO. Also why is it that new bh-5 has issues but old bh-5 doesnt when they are the same chip. This all confuses me.

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Originally Posted by bigtoe

I still need testers though, if you have a cold boot issue please get in touch.

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90% of my mobo is absolutely perfect, but i have an occasional cold boot.. like when swapping a part, or pulling the power cord-- not a regular cold boot, it just wont power on at all.. I usually have to remove the power plug, and plug it back in, as if the PSU overvoltage is protecting it... sometimes its fine, sometimes it isnt.

rails are flawless. Specs in sig.. probably not what your lookin for.. :P

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Originally Posted by dippyskoodlez

90% of my mobo is absolutely perfect, but i have an occasional cold boot.. like when swapping a part, or pulling the power cord-- not a regular cold boot, it just wont power on at all.. I usually have to remove the power plug, and plug it back in, as if the PSU overvoltage is protecting it... sometimes its fine, sometimes it isnt.

rails are flawless. Specs in sig.. probably not what your lookin for.. :P

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Dippsy - are you using the 5V rail for Vmem? If so, what PS are you using?

--- dsumanik ---

Just an FYI... the discussion with Bourch had nothing to do with the cold boot issue... was an OT about a different issue he was having ;)

Peace :toast:

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Originally Posted by EMC2

Dippsy - are you using the 5V rail for Vmem? If so, what PS are you using?

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no.. im using the 3.3v rail.. jumper stock.. im using my 350w antec smartpower modded to 24pin. The rails are absolutely solid- 11.98v 12v line, 3.32, 3.3v line, and 5.10v on the 5v line.

Measured using a $300 sperry DMM, not cheapo mobo monitors too.

the 5v jumper works fine, and i actually, havent noticed this problem with the jumper switched.. :stick:

i think i have a temporary solution, for the ppl that doesn`t have killed sticks, use the jumper in default position 3.2v, use the vx sticks in slot 2 and 4, and the ddrbooster in slot 1, its working fine to me, 3.5v 1.5-2-2-5 for 24/7 so far so good, have made a couple of shutdowns and it is booting fine :banana:

Hi guys,

I'm a cold boot sufferer like you guys.

Previously I had to reset CMOS with jumper and redo my settings.

But now I have my temp. probes go crazy (stuck on certain temperature I know is not possible, i.e. ambient goes down 5-10 degrees celcius). I try and shutdown normally and the system will not shut down. I look in the bios and chech PC health. All three readings are 128 128 128.

Now bare with me. I also have the one 'bad stick" syndrome. Good stick works by itself, insert bad stick no post. Try in another m/b bad stick fails to work. I nearly RMA'd but after a significant 'cool down period' I put the bad stick in and I'm working.

However I now get cold boot every day, sometimes twice a day. Switching back to 3.3 rail and 3.2 or 3.1 Volts on memory doesn't help.

NOW HERE IS THE THING

Currently Im on the 510-2 BIOS and using the yellow slots (I have an XP-120). Now my bad stick was in the yellow slot closest to CPU. It was geting annoying trying to mount in under the XP-120. So i switched the 'good stick' in the yellow slot closest to CPU thinking that when I have to cool down and reseat the 'bad stick' it would be so much easier in the yellow slot furthest from CPU.

WRONG!

My good stick would not boot! Panicking and thinking that I somehow stuffed up my RAM I tested it by putting it back in its original slot (furthest yellow from CPU)

VOILA! POST! It is so obvious to me that the slots themselves are causing the problems.

Before you launch into me, when I first encountered the heavier version of cold boot I was in the Orange slots and reseated to yellow because of XP-120.

God Damn you DFI :slapass:

Now I have a feeling no matter what I do I won't have a 'normal' system. I'm starting to get quite annoyed. I also have a feeling that a BIOS may not solve the problem.

Hope my information helps the cause!

Guys if you are testing single channel you have to use slot 1 or 2, these are the slots furthest from the CPU, slots 3 and 4 will not boot single channel

Oh for crying out loud. I've gotten it so wrong.

I'll disappear into some dark dark corner of XS shame.

For Curiosities sake I might test by letting both sticks cool down, then chuck the bad stick in the Single channel slot (furtherest from CPU) into the Dual and Visa-versa. However I am too sick and tired of all this swapping and changing. Also I am afriad that the Dual channel slot might nuke my good stick.

Decisions decisions.

EDIT: Just asking all other people with 'bad stick' experience. Which slot did it originally populate? If we get most or all people saying the dual channel slots, then we may have a culprit

Can I please test the new beta bios too?

I have the following problem:

X800XL in the upper Slot: 3LEDs - no monitor signal, no Post
X800XL in the lower Slot: 1LED, some beeps, no monitor signal, no post.

With a PCI Vid-Card I hope to get in the bios and flash the new one.

I've just received a pair of OCZ Plat Rev.2. Tonight, I will replace my 512mb kingston stick with the new kit. I hope they will run without any problem.
After that, I'll test the VX pair on another non DFI Nforce4 mobo and if they are not already toasted (I hope they aren't) I'll sell them and, this way, i'll put a stop to the problem

Cold boot problems like crazy with my redline now! Was rock stable at 260x10, so i never shut her off....now i needed to reboot and shes got cold boot problems. :stick: Id love to help test now! :toast:

-Zach

Just linking to the cold boot issues thread at DFI-street, because it has come off the 'sticky' there.

http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12687

Apparently a new 6XX BIOS seems to be helping a select few with Cold boot problems?

I hope it does, so I can go back on the 5v Rail. the vdimm jumper trick is all well and good but even with my 3.3 adjusted to 3.4 and my RAM drawing 3.2, my OCZ 520W Powerstream starts making clicking pitchy noises when running Prime95 Large FFT's.

Have I inadvertently discovered another problem?

I have some problems too. I can boot with 2 sticks of 512mb (OCZ PC4000 VX), but only after a bios reset. If i apply overclocked settings, the system won't POST!

Have a look at this:

http://xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=66060

Cheers!

Well, DFI-Street has resorted to telling users with cold boot problems to email DFI.
http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/show...&postcount=416

The problem with this approach is that people do not know that they should email, I have added the email address to my signature. So that people know they should email DFI directly (in addition to posting on the forum).

So, guys/gals, please drop them a mail:

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06-18-2005 According to RGone at DFI-Street:
Cold boot problem? You need to email: DFI Direct

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by OzSnoal

Well, DFI-Street has resorted to telling users with cold boot problems to email DFI.
http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/show...&postcount=416

The problem with this approach is that people do not know that they should email, I have added the email address to my signature. So that people know they should email DFI directly (in addition to posting on the forum).

So, guys/gals, please drop them a mail:

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I think some of that goes to a_g and rgona anyways. lol :D

imo it's Angry/RGone's job to escalate any unresolved issues to the techies at DFI rather than yelling at their customers to do it.

I get the idea that they are forgetting who is paying their salaries.

Just my opinion as a sufferer.

Bigtoe: Is my problem in the same category as the "cold boot" problem?

Both of my sticks of 4000 vx will boot @ 250 2-2-2-5 and run memtest all day long in slot 1 or 2, but when they are both in (1+3 or 2+4) they will not boot at ANY setting: 3.2v 200mhz 3-3-3-8. I get a repeating long beep and 3 LEDs. I have not been able to boot with 2 sticks using *any* method since the problem started.

Would RMA be a good idea? I am really close to doing it...

Otherwise, I would be glad to test anything for you. The worst that could happen is I'll be w/o my PC for a week or two (which would happen anyways if I RMA'd).

thanks,
crafty

Guys has anyone tried the 618 BIOS yet?

Which one do we use for VX...its seems they have changed the theme of -1, -2 and -3...

-1 is Bh-5, UTT

-2 is general

-3 TCCD

VX Chips are winbond UTT.
-1 has more aggresive default settings so, it seems to be more for BH-5 and UTT, never for value ram.
I recomend you that one.

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Originally Posted by Mikesta

Guys has anyone tried the 618 BIOS yet?

Which one do we use for VX...its seems they have changed the theme of -1, -2 and -3...

-1 is Bh-5, UTT

-2 is general

-3 TCCD

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I always though -1 general and -2 UTT....

Why else would everyone test UTT on -2?

I also thought UTT was -2.

The difference btw 1, 2, 3 is only the default settings in bios ???

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Originally Posted by Ubermann

The difference btw 1, 2, 3 is only the default settings in bios ???

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No! Different RAM tables.

Info:

-1 = BH5
-2 = CH5/UTT
-3 = TCCD

Meh my problems sorted, I had a dodgy Tagan UO1, new Tagan UO1 and all problems gone!

I cleared the CMOS with the battery out and the PSU unplugged (not just the switch turned off) and put my VX in slot 1. That finally let me boot with 510-2. Not sure if that will help anyone else...

I would like to test a new version of BIOS. I just RMA'd my OCZ PC 4000 VX memory. I will have the new sticks any day. DFI told me to drop my settings to 3.2 Volt. I was going to go with the 618-2 Bios but at this point, I will try whatever. I guess I will get to try my yellow slots too, even though before, I had to use the orange.

I miss my OCZ. I am using some cheap crap from SAM's club. Slow slow slow. My OCZ used to kick butt. I hope it will again soon when this issue is resolved. I still love you DFI and OCZ!!! :banana:

the 623 is the best bios to use as it actually sets a higher vdimm at boot i am told...the early i bios i had off oskar was just no good.

Try the 623 and see how you do

Thanks! I will. By the way, with the replacement memory, can I go back to 3.5 Volt or should I stay at 3.2 like DFI suggests? Would the booster help any or this that for mobo's with limited voltage settings. I have read some good stuff on the booster, but I have also seen posts that said the booster did nothing for them on the DFI Lanparty Ultra D nF4.

i just recieved my new VX4000 back from rma. and the boot issue is gone. but i flashed to 623-2 in the mean time so im not quite sure if its the new mem or new bios.

but one thing i did notice is that the heatspreaders of the new ram get warm at 3.2v while the old sticks hs' were always cold even at 3.5v

so my guess is that the hs' on the old sticks had bad contact and this way the dimms could have died from heat - is this likely?

Well I Have ruled out the 5volt causing cold boot on my sticks.

Sticks never bios flashed with
Never went over 3.5 volts
Only ever used jumper trick

I had a stick "die" on me, well I thought it had I tryed everthing I could to get it to boot but alas it didnt work. I raised an RMA, then read someone had the same problem then reflashed from 510-2 to 618-2, quess what it came back to life.

A couple of weeks later I booted and nothing 3 LED beep. I maanged to boot with a single stick so I reflashed again (with 618-2) This time after clearing CMOS all I got was a hanging @ boot screen. I tryed for days, after ringing my supplier he told me to return the board.

Guess what happened when he got the board......it worked first time
:confused:
On recieving the board back sure enough both sticks worked...well worked for the some total of three cold boots. i then managed to boot with a single stick, 2 sticks would give 3 leds beebs.
I then reflashed AGAIN this time to 615 and all is well for now.
Im starting to think that this maybe is hardware issue that will NOT be fixed with Bios review.

so is the cold boot fixed or not, should only use the 3.2v max when i receive new dfi mobo and ocz vx sticks?

cometman, I'd suggest you go to the ocz support site, check out there stickies on this issue and go from there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Der_KHAN

i just recieved my new VX4000 back from rma. and the boot issue is gone. but i flashed to 623-2 in the mean time so im not quite sure if its the new mem or new bios.

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ok, ive tried 331-2 and 510-2 now. and theres no boot issue whatsoever.

so i can say for sure that my old ram died.
the strange thing about it is that the "dead" sticks ran fine in an old kt266A board but refused to work with all 3 DFI NF4 boards that ive tried.

but the dfi boards are fine. they work great with all other mem and, as i said, also my new vx.

I downloaded the 6/23 bios almost as soon as it was available.

Cold boot was gone!

But now it is back! I did go back to the 4v rail (3.3 VDIMM).

Now I am back on the 3.3v Rail Ram using 3.2.

Question to people out there....if you own VX and had this dreaded cold boot, and you have abandoned the DFI, do you guys have any hint of cold boot?

I'm wondering if the board does damage the RAM in some way. The thing is my RAM wasn't even warm to touch like it has been in the past (never really hot though)

I'm getting quite sick of these flaky boards. This is my 2nd attempt at writing this post (BSOD of network-- nVidia GigaLAN whilst using eMule)

DFI :slapass: This board is an excellent performer but its flakiness is driving myself and others mad!

Desperately waiting for the Sapphire Grouper boards.

Well here's my story:

Last night I decided to remove IHS on my 3000+ Winchester. When I put it back in the DFI NF4 and boot it up.....nothing! Well I was thinking that I damage the CPU but look out the d-led and it was staying on 3 led! ....Ummmm that means that CPU was working...

So it remove 1 stick of my TCCD (OCZ Pc3200 rev2) and then it boot until all leds are "off" and then shut down!

Did a clear CMOS and remove the battery..... and now I'm typing with this computer but at stock setting and with just 1 stick.....

Damn strange! Never had a cold boot issue before....and now what I don't get it it's people with UTT, BH ram that are having cold boot issue...not TCCD like me!

Well will try a new BIOS...

I had constant cold boot issues untill now. Every time i shut down my comp (just shut down,not remove ac plug), it wouldn't boot up without shuffling memories back and forth(have 5 sticks of V-data Utt), resetting cmos and sometimes even that didn't help and only way i got it to boot was putting my worst generic memory in place and that way getting to boot it to bios, save and change memory back to Utt.

I have tried bios versions 3.10, 3.31 1-3, 5.10 1-3, 6.18 1-3, and now 7.02-2, all from http://www.dfi-bios.tk/. After 5.10 i have used yellow slots (although tested oranges too) and before 5.10 i used orange slots.

Finally i have no cold boot problem :woot: . Can't recommend 7.02 versions to anyone, since they are Alpha and you might get some entirely new prolems with 'em, but it solved my prob and i even gained 7 Mhz in Fsb speed :banana: .

small thread ressurection.
I have these warm boot problems, just like Juggernaut described them.
Unfortunately I haven't got a revision e CPU and can't try this bios.
Was this issue solved in the meantime?

I'm using all these workarounds for a long time now. I would be glad to have a final fix for these issues.

Thanks.