^+1 ,40 bucks plexi here..every two years get a new one ,Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideroxylon
no cleaning involved :ROTF:
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^+1 ,40 bucks plexi here..every two years get a new one ,Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideroxylon
no cleaning involved :ROTF:
FYI, here is a picture of my long term test just a bit ago. This one has a PMP-400 pump in P1 with the short (shared) reservoir plug.
No problems, just looks like I need to top it off a little, very happy with the day to day use.
http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpr...ngtermtest.jpg
FYI, tested pump PQ with the serial kit installed and got the same result as having about an 18" piece of 1/2"ID tubing to serial connect.
http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpr...lpqdetails.png
http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpr...comparison.png
Great info Martin :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
How noisy are 2 pumps vs 1? I found the pump in my DD Delrin Bay Res way noisier than in my old XSPC res. Probably because of the way how the pump mounted :shrug:
Can't speak for Martin's experience (obviously), but in my two loop setup, there's not much of a perceivable difference between 1 vs 2 pumps in operation (at the highest speed setting). They are, however, fairly loud, with some high pitch whine noticeable, which to me is moderately annoying - this perception, of course, is highly subjective, I have no measuring equipment to quantify this in any way. The case (ATCS 840) is about 1.5m from my listening position.
Thanks Mac, that is exactly what I wanted to know. I was hoping that Koolance res is quieter cuz the pumps are mounted from the sides, but I guess I was wrong :(.Quote:
Originally Posted by mackintosh
I think it would be more accurate to compare that tank with our standalone reservoirs due out next month. They don't have the same plumbing challenges as dual pump+reservoir units, although ours will probably still cost more because they're solid acetal. However, value vs. materials is a less objective argument in my opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideroxylon
Based on our tech calls, I think the majority of customers have little to no issue with the unit apart from time required to bleed the right-side reservoir. We are looking into modifications that can be made to improve upon the design. Customers that aren't running flow through each reservoir independently don't have to use the inlet/outlet of the right tank at all.
:p: I don't think waiting for a part to leak on your hardware (because it's cheap enough to put up with) is a viable option for most cooling enthusiasts. If that's the case, grab a couple of milk jugs and caulk some nozzles into them. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhandluke41
Martin's posted some noise tests here.Quote:
Originally Posted by McDown
We're now shipping Rev1.1 of the RP-452X2, which has some changes to the LED hole placement/orientation to improve intensity of illumination.
Tim
Tim, I swear if I ever make a loop to see just how cheap I can build a loop for, I will be stealing this EPIC idea :ROTF::clap::clap::ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
i've read all 5 pages but still have to ask a silly question cause my english is not very good.
So i ordered 2 pump, this res, and a serial connector kit. What i have to do, step by step, for "dual pump, single loop, lower tank only" scenario?
Should i install the bonus acrylic piece into the res or keep original?
I installed a second pump and utilized the serial connector, an easy install especially with all the info in this thread.
- I got two quick questions. I noticed that the "plug" has changed color a bit.. its kind of brown now.
- I put a silver coil in the same res with the "plug" would this be an issue?
I notice there are a few negative posts on the forum about this product, I agree the bleeding could be better. However my experiences with this product have mostly been favorable. I wanted a device to facilitate a dual pump setup, easy access to monitor my fluid level and reduce clutter in my tower. This product did exactly what I wanted.
It's not about how cheap or expensive particular product is, it's all about the ease of use and the soul purpose of having one, specially when it comes to bay res.Any time you see threads like this ;Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=268486&page=2
and the reservoir that needs " Informal bleeding guide video"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7g3R...layer_embedded
... you should know better not try some"milk jugs" explanation ( BTW I was getting exhausted watching this video),I have few Koolance products and was going to get that Res. but i won't till i see some improvements ( perhaps new rev./ modification )
Since when blowing 120$ on bay res that is PITA to bleed is a viable option for most cooling enthusiasts ?:p:
We've acknowledged the difficulty of bleeding the upper reservoir. It's not a perfect process and we aren't ignoring that. As mentioned, we're testing several modifications to make the right-side tank easier to bleed. A few XS members here have also made some suggestions for current customers that work rather well.Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhandluke41
Tim
Thank you for your response Tim ,i'm sure Koolance will take care of it in no time :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
Hopefully the Koolance fix arrives sooner than later. I was all about the RP but now I'm leaning towards the Monsoon.
OK...
Been playing with it..
Guys direction says we need to mount it like this:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...S/IMG_0691.jpg
makes sense because its the only port with 3 screws.. however... lets think about it from a flow perspective... this doesnt help the right side...
So you need to mount it like this:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...S/IMG_0693.jpg
Now lets relook at that.
That seals the top right res by putting a straight pass though.
That should also force the left side to do all the bleeding and not right side.
Its important that u connect the two reses.
Now when u serial them up like this:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...S/IMG_0695.jpg
You can see u got P1 out.. going straight to p2 in... which means then it goes to that acrylic top i changed,
bypasses the right side res completely, feeds directly into P2,
And then out the system again.
This way u get the LEFT side doing all the bleeding, which is the easier side.
You guys want me to show u the DDC version now? or do u think u guys got it?
Tim i think you guys just got the side mixed up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
It works, if you do it to the top one... because as i said, it blocks the top left res, which is the problem side.
;)
Great, and I bought both res's too...and the connector kits. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by D749
Naekuh: hmm, somehow one centrifugal pump having inlet going _from_ _below_ doesn't seem to me right. Even if it will work, if lower pump is first, imho it might affect a bit performance.
Im gonna borrow this guys picture:Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
http://w7sp5a.blu.livefilestore.com/...814.JPG?psid=1
So the P1 IN = bottom left hole... water goes inside that...
Then it hits a wall with slash which forces bubbles to go escape...
The inlet for the pump is the hole on top.
This will pull water that hole... which is the inlet on the pump, then out P1 OUT.
Then you have a koolance serial bridge, which forces water to goto the TOP right hole.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...S/IMG_0695.jpg
If you put the serial plate on that hole, it will force the water directly into the Pump's 2 inlet. The hole where the guy put the 90 is the inlet on P2.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...S/IMG_0693.jpg
Which then the pump pushes out the Rear P2 OUT.
This way, you completely BYPASS the right side.
The right side becomes extra volumn, when you tie the two res's together by removing that separator plug.
The Right side is the problem side.... so just bypass the right side, and use the left side for the bleeding.
If the two res's are tied together, then well, both sides will become = due to gravity.
Performance... mmmm.. u know whats funny... skinnee and i were talking about @ CES.
LOL, we came to the conclusion it would be very difficult due to the massive size on the D5, to get both Candy and Eat it too, in a sense.
But i can tell ya, 2 D5's even with an imperfect top, will still outperform 1 D5 with a perfect top, any day of the week, with its eyes closed.
Martin also mentioned smoother bleeding with the acrylic bypass in the upper reservoir instead of the lower one. We didn't design it that way because there are scenarios where bleeding was worse while doing that. In normal upright orientation, if it works best for an individual customer to place their connecting pipe on the upper rear ports and the acrylic bypass in the upper tank, I say go for it! :)
Tim
Yeah, I'm pretty well convinced there are multiple ways of doing it. To bleed any loop you just need a place where water is calm enough to allow bubbles to rise to a surface...doesn't really matter where that is in a loop. It could be before or after either of the pumps, but it might help a bit to make it first to catch the larger pockets of air before they get diced in the pump. Having the main reservoir first also helps with priming/filling, but even that can be done with some variation. In my test I probably should have moved the connector pipe to the top as Naekuh shows since I used the acrylic insert in the right/upper.
I am with Naekuh on the connector/acylic insert. I liked using the insert in the top/right reservoir so I could utilize the lower ports in the left/lower reservoir. It's not really meant for that, but I thought it was a bit easier than using the original baffles so less air gets trapped in the right/upper reservoir.
You could omit the acrylic insert all together, but then you'll have to either top off the right all the time or push the air back into the loop. With the insert in the right/uppper, you'll still have to bleed off the air there, but there is less of it than with the baffle.
The connector pipe is also optional...you could easily place a block in between the two pumps and just use the loop to connect the pumps in series. I even had one user say he thought doing that was better for noise? Haven't tested or noticed that myself, but who knows.
The only thing I'm really sure about is that I made it work a few different ways, and there are likely a dozen other methods that will also work..:D
well that serial acrylic insert basically asks you this question.
Do you want your inlet in the center of the res? or do you want it in the lower portion of the res?
Because the serial insert has a oring, im fairly sure it will seal that compartment.
This is why i said, you need to open the separator plug, so you can use the right side as extra storage.
Then the bubble isnt trapping on the left side.Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
Ultimately, i would say in the manual, allow extra tubing in the rear so bay res can be pulled out and tiled so all the holes in the rear are submerged, and repeat until you got water almost to the top of the right bay.
Soooooo, is that also the best way to fix up the 402 and 452? I've got both, running serial...2xd5 and 2xmcp350.
Just want to say both my res have settled over last week and are now topped to the brim with absolutely not 1 bubble circulating and no more gurgling or water fountain sound from the res either.
When my aquaero 5 arrives sometime soon hopefully I might try the acrylic loop in the top right like Martin suggested though it looks like it doesnt seal as well because it wasnt designed to go up there because there's no recessed lip for the o ring.
Been playing Crysis 2 in eyefinity and just finished. What an awesome game once you get crossfire working with no flicker! IL2 COD not so good! ;(
Love both my Res Koolance! :up:
This is hurting my head... so is the serial solution working or not working?
Still can't decide whether to do this bay res or go for a dual top or try some other method of putting my 2x Koolance 450S's in...
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...p402x21_p0.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69
When u got screws on each side compressing that oring.. i dont see a problem.
:shrug:
That black ring is the Oring. :)
Also the pump will be in a state of suction. Water is not compressible.
i trying to decide here, i going to install the 450X2 with two pumps in serial, i already have the res and the 90 kit, where i need to connect the serial acrylic and the 90 connector for maximum performance :shrug: ?
NaeKuh recommendation is if you're going to do serial with 2 pumps, acrylic and serial up top.
The problem with the acrylic piece in the top right is that the hole is bigger so the o-ring isnt compressing against anything so it doesnt seal. It isnt obvious until you see it and try it in the flesh.
i took a better look at the res, and i totally understand what ur getting at.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69
Air could seep back into the system if its not leveled high enough.
Ok... then i guess the only solution now that i see is actually putting a T at P2 inlet and extending the reservior up, so you can overfill the reservior in a sense, and keep it topped off though the tubing.
With the acrylic in top, a little bit of air will creep back in the top/left...this is true...it's not completely sealed. I like it that way though...I would prefer having fluid in each side of the reservoir rather than just one. I just tipped the reservoir forward to draw any bits of air that do happen to get caught in the right/upper. You can also use the filler screws (when pumps are off, to bleed the air over there if you are using a funnel. If water level is higher in the funnel, it will push the air out.
That's what I did in my bleed test video...took me about an hour to get the system full and mostly bled out. Lots of options...
I've also heard of at least one other user, using a T-line in conjunction as a filler and secondary bleed. That's always yet another option.
im playing with it now.
And u guys.. i think not having any inserts is working the best for me.
Anyhow lemme play with it a bit more and i'll get back to you guys
But right now... assume the res is in... this is the problem im running into.
The bubble refuses to collect on the side with the port.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/IMG_0718.jpg
And the other side... oh man... the other side...
But i see all the woes now.. so i'll get back to you guys after ive played with it a bit.
Now I am not looking forward to setting up my 402 and 452 loop, LOL.
vivithemage: don't let Naekuh's photography skills get to you :)
IMO, Phatboy69's method for dropping the upper reservoir pump inlet will probably be the most effective to ease bleeding. In evaluating revisions to the RP-402/452X2, extending that internal reservoir port has been one of our focuses. There's just not much else that can be done with the flow path inside the acetal itself while keeping the reservoir a "single piece" or losing the tank partition.
Tim
Tim heres what im visualizing is happening.Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
The pump on the left side is working, and it does push water to the right side.
The right side does not do a good job of trapping bubbles.
Infact the bubble traps you guys are using tends to refeed the bubbles back into the inlet.
So i have tried filling the right side to the brim, and the left side keeps shooting bubbles into the right side.
Once the bubbles go into the right side pump, it wont purge.
This is what everyone is complaining about... the pump on the right wont purge once a bubble is stuck inside it.
There has to be an easier fix to this... i need some time...
If i cant figure out a solution... then oh man... but u guys know if there is room for innovation somewhere, i'll smell it, and try to exploit it.
This is how im testing the Bay Res, BTW:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/IMG_0716.jpg
more updates...
Ok from my tests, ur best off removing the top divider, and not using ANYTHING.
What happens is that top acrylic divider ends up refeeding the bubbles back into P2.
Once that happens, P2 can not purge unless u flash the power.
Removing the plate entirely, prevents that side from getting a large air bubble stuck.
Anyhow...
U need to Tline the this port...
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...o/IMG_0721.jpg
That is the only way ur gonna get water into the right res to top it off.
And yes u need to have the right side almost completely submerged.
Doing it at the corners i ran into this problem:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...o/IMG_0719.jpg
You can see the fillport overflowing.. yet there is still bubbles inside the res.
On the left side, this isnt bad.. as the inlet is way bottom.
On the right side.. oh man... this is the big problem, which is why u need to tline the inlet that feeds to that side.
After 10min of bleeding... It works:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...o/IMG_0722.jpg
OK...
I think this is the final one.
Sponge arrestor in the top chamber with acrylic insert.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...o/IMG_0725.jpg
However u will need to continuously top off every now and then... so i guess it would be a good idea to have something like this while your bleeding:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...o/IMG_0726.jpg
Its not as fast as with the T-line.. but it gets there:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...o/IMG_0728.jpg
well done ...i wonder if the sponge will be part of the package. .lol
it's a bit of a flow killer tho
i dont think that will be the package.Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhandluke41
What it does mean is i figured out the problem with the res's.
The solution is a better bubble trap.
something that separates the inlet and outlet even further.
Thanks! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
Here's a couple of better pics with the bubbles long gone!
http://w7sp5a.blu.livefilestore.com/...852.JPG?psid=1
http://w7sp5a.blu.livefilestore.com/...854.JPG?psid=1
It amazes me that this design made it through (I assume) numerous design reviews before manufacturing and then through rigorous testing before being released to market.
Did anyone at Koolance really do any testing? Did they send prototype test units to members of the watercooling community?
got my 2xd5, and man ... this thing is unbleedable! I tried with a really long hose out the fill port, hoping the bubbles would climb up, but no such luck. The res is full past the brim, yet it still has bubbles :(.
yes they did..Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenArrow
But the bleeding issue wasnt noted because when they test these units, there outside.
Dont get me wrong.. when its a stand alone, its easy as pie to bleed.
If you have the res in a 90 so its facing up, then bleeding is a pie.
But if its mounted inside a bay, and u have limited range of movements, i can see where all the crys are coming from.
Simple solution is to make a better bubble trap.
The top outlet needs to push more to the side
The bottom inlet needs to draw further down.
And bleeding issues is well .. you don't bleed loop every day, do you? I still admire this res for managing to put two D5 in just two 5.25 bays, even if it limits design options for making it easier to bleed.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
I guess water cooling is going mainstream faster than I thought. I've used T-lines for years and it was common practice to bleed a loop outside of a case and expectations with T-lines were that bleeding might take a few days. It was normal, but generally considered fine...after all is a day or two really that bad if the loop is up for a year.?
I think people expect separated reservoir bleeding speeds with compromised/confined spaces. Unfortunetly, you can't have both. Big reservoirs can bleed without baffles, I have a few test reservoirs that will almost instantly bleed a system...but they are huge 3" x 24" volumes of water that drop velocities to nothing and bleed very fast. You simply can't fit all of that bleeding performance AND two pumps in a dual bay. The more compact the reseervoir the more baffling is required and the more bleeding becomes a Tline like effort.
I haven't used a bay reservoir yet where you didn't have to tip the case around at least some, they are all more work than a large separate reservoir.
I have tried and succesfully bled out the reservoir several times now...takes me about an hour to get most of the air out and a couple of days afterward to get the fine stuff out.
The only change I would suggest is an acrylic insert to move that right side inlet lower and people that don't want to hassle with keeping it full, can use a Tline suppliment.
I've gone back a couple of times now to revisit the user comments and just havn't had the same problems as long as you are willing to tip the case around. Perhaps it's my experience with Tlines and low restriction preference on setups?? Or maybe I just have more patience than most..I'm really enjoying the long term single pump setup I've been running. Sure it took some more work than normal on day one filling it with the case on it's back, but no problems long term...works just fine on the setups I've tried.?
its not hard for koolance to make a working bubble trap.
They just dont know what is the most effective means.
Tim my advice... give us a insert that can completely cover the right side res, like how the left side does it.
Give us a better bubble trap on the left side.
Let those of us who are on serial, bypass the right side entirely.
Because as i said during my testing... what happens is the serial insert blocks the left side, which is the lower port..
Water starts at the right side middle port... bubbles gets trapped... can not continue water to the left side with the acrylic serial bridge, and the pump doesnt purge.
This is my second full fledge WC build, and I can tell water is in all rads, and the res is full. I can tilt it like no tomorrow, and I can till hear the pumps pushing bubbles/air. I let it sit overnight, with it tipped up, to see if they'd all go towards the top, still nothing. I have hte acrylic + pipe on the bottom of the res.
I also have a 4 foot hose that I was using into the res, to see if I could fill it up, and then some, to get rid of bubbles/air..but that did not help either.
How does this t line work? does it sit behind the pumps/res? Why is it better then what I was trying IN the res? I am also using the short plug..to combine both tanks.
I also noticed that the right side bubbles/moves around like mad, but the left is idle, no water movement at all.
I love the large solid Delrin dual pump bay concept. I just wish they made one without a reservoir so I could use a separate reservoir.
Ever used a plain and simple dual bay res? I fill mine up, start the pump, it bleeds out 98% of the air in just a couple mins and I don't even have to top it off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
The biggest problem I see is paying so much money for a res that doesn't provide even the basic functions that you'd expect from one. Not being able to easily and properly bleed a $120 res is ridiculous. Trying to justify it as being worthwhile is even worse.
Just FYI, my res has now started leaking after give or take two month of use. The leak is around the o-ring in the left-side pump. I hadn't noticed until my DVD drive started opening by itself and a little puddle developed under the front of the case. No significant damage other than the fan controller directly underneath it. I've since disassembled and reassembled the pump, but the leak persists. I'm guessing the o-ring's warped or something. Normally I'd go through the motions to have this o-ring replaced and retest, but I'm so sick of this res that I'll just go back to a regular setup.
I need to drill and tap a couple holes in the bottom of both my 452x2 res to fit Aquaero level sensors. Any one got any experience or advice with modding any res in this way?
The new quicker way to flush, fill, bleed the system.. Makes the bleeding of the Koolance 452X2 sooooo much easier too. Just fill er up and leave it! When done, tip bottle upside down below the fill port and let most excess water flow down. Have cloth handy to catch last few drops remove fitting and plug... Done!!!
http://w7sp5a.blu.livefilestore.com/...196.jpg?psid=1
I have a problem with my new RP-452x2 res.
I'm currently using the following stuff:
EK-Multioption X2 250 res
EK-D5 X-TOP rev.2 for my D5 pump
EK-Supreme HF for my I7
EK-FC5870 V2 for my ATI 5870
XSPC RX360 rad.
With the current setup I have no issues whatsoever.
I'm having a great flowrate, cool temps and a silent system.
But building in the pump and res separately left some room for improvement.
So I was looking for a bay res that could also fit the pump.
After re-building my system with the koolance bay-res I started filling it.
I instantly noticed that eventhough I correctly used the P2 side (it came pre-configured to be used with the P2 side - P1 in and outs were blocked) that when I fired up the pump I could see no water flowing out of the res.
The pump was making a horrible loud sound.
The res was filled up completely, but the pump was drawing air.
I shook the res for a bit, tilted it and then I saw some water dripping into the tubes.
Even though I kept topping up the res, the waterlevel would not drop very fast. No matter which setting I had the pump on.
It still made a loud horrible air gushing sound when it tried to work.
After several hours trying to get the loop filled properly (a very slow process with this res) I still would not get a decent flow. There were so many pockets of air and air bubbles in the loop, it wasn't even funny.
No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the loop filled and bled properly.
I even tried both sides of the tanks (using the separator and without it). Same results. Filling+Bleeding was not working.
I then thought, maybe the loop is too long, but even shortening did not work.
What I also noticed is that the water coming back in the res was just slowly coming in, instead of rushing back in with force.
I can't imagine my pump not being strong enough to power my loop. Or would another pump solve the issues I described above?
I also thought, well maybe I killed my pump when I cleaned it rebuilding the loop so I went back to the previous setup and just took out the Koolance res and put back in my EK tube res.
The results were astonishing: I filled my loop in mere minutes.
Bleeding it was a piece of cake, the biggest bubbles were soon gone and the small ones are now gone as well after a few hours.
I could clearly see the water rushing through my tubes into the res.
So it wasn't the pump's fault, nor the loop's length since I kept everything as it was when I installed the koolance res.
Did I do something wrong with the koolance res?
I hate to have spent 130 euro on this res and not being able to use it.
like we all said, the res has problems purging air once stuck in the impeller.
you need to pulse it, meaning turn it on and off, so u can push water though the loop and make sure your res is full.
This is why we say add a tline.
But that loud noise ur hearing is air bubbles being trapped in the impeller.
@dotslasher: I recommend using the left res for single pump which means putting the pump on the right side when looking at it from the front.
The pump needs water above the intake port to generate enough flow(prime the pump). The intake port is up very high on the right side and hence it is difficult to prime the pump and also to bleed air from the loop. My picture above might seem like a bit of a joke, but having the res constantly full from the bottle made priming and bleeding really simple.
Perhaps you could use your old res in a similiar fashion to provide a higher filling point. Fill the old external res to keep the 452x2 filled to the top. Then when done after a few hours of bleeding, bring the external res down below the 452x2 fill port to drain the excess water, remove the fitting and plug the fill port.
Thank you for this info.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69
I'll probably be ordering one of these bad boys next week for a single loop w/ only 1 pump.
You just saved me a good 3+ hours for tinkering. :up:
EDIT:
So if you are starting dry, you can just fill a large container like that and use it as a fill/bleed port till there's no bubbles?Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69
I'd really like to get this res, but after re-reading the last few pages, I'm second guessing it.
For a loop w/ 1 pump, 1 res, 1 cpu block (simple, I know), will this be a loop I can leave alone besides toping it off now and again? :shrug:
(I plan on using both portions of the res.)
Res shouldnt need topping off. I have had mine for a couple months and drained and filled twice now for upgrades to my system. In between it didnt need any work and I wouldnt expect it to either. Its a great product.
If you're having issues with air in the upper reservoir, our new bleed pipe kit should make things easier. If you already have an RP-402X2 or RP-452X2 (original or revision 1.1), we're sending the kit for free through August! See here for details. Revision 1.2 reservoirs on our website now include this component.
Some pics:
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...p452x2r_02.jpg
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...p452x2r_p1.jpg
The new acrylic piece links the inlet and outlet together in the upper reservoir, while providing a new copper pipe inlet from the lower tank area. There is a small bleed hole in front of the inlet through the acrylic. I've tried several units now and all have bled in about 5-7 minutes with the pump on max. You should still try to fill the reservoir as full as possible, so tipping the unit so the fill port is high while filling will help. But as the manual for the bleed pipe kit will illustrate, it's fine if there's some air left.
Tim
Does this effectively replace the lower left serial link acrylic or can they be used together? If it replaces the left acrylic serial link does that mean the rear serial link needs to be moved to the top?Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
Awesome. Cant wait to receive it :D Great customer service considering you are sending them out free etc.
Nice work!!
That should make the right side reservoir much better. Also Kudos on the free upgrade support!
Tim, will there be a bleed kit for the original 450X2? It has proven to be a b*gger to bleed as well.
The serial acrylic piece was originally designed to fit the lower reservoir, so it wouldn't conflict with the bleed pipe if used that way. The serial connector on the back should also go on the bottom inlet/outlet. I think the only reason some customers were using the serial pipe on top was for bleeding reasons, so the new pipe kit should fix that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69
This won't fit the RP-450X2, which has a very different configuration. I've not heard of bleeding issues with that product, though. Both pump inlets/outlets are in the center of the reservoir and it's easy to fill well above them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Expat GriZ
Tim
Im a little bit confused by how the new system works.Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
From what I can see the new acrylic piece does what my original pickup mod did but it also recirculates most of the water without it going into the res and the small hole at the return port is design to just somehow catch air in the res?
If you have D5s in series with the original serial link in the lower left and the new bleed kit in the right how does more water get into the loop when you've almost created a closed loop with the new bleed kit?
I just want to make sure its safe to run both acrylic serial links at the same time as I just cant see how water flows back into the res with the new bleed kit looking virtually like another serial link, be it with a small air capture hole and inlet tube.
Thats a good question.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69
You would have to remove the serial plug and use both bays to make use of this. :rofl:
Otherwise the return has nowhere to feed back into except the left chamber.
You can join the reservoirs or leave them separate. It shouldn't matter. Let's keep the example that you're using two pumps in series with the 180º pipe connector and this new bleed pipe. The bleed pipe is in the upper reservoir, and the serial acrylic piece is in the lower reservoir (with external pipe on the bottom joining P2/Out->P1/In).Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69
The inlet on back is then P2/In. Flow goes into the top reservoir and back out that same reservoir (P2/Out on back). Then it hits the 180º pipe, and gets sent back in through P1/In. Coolant then enters the lower reservoir, and gets suctioned via the serial acrylic piece back out (P1/Out on back).
The bleed pipe doesn't isolate the upper reservoir inlet/outlets from one another (or the reservoir itself). I also had some doubts when we reached this design since there's still a direct path in the acrylic between the inlet and outlet. It's not the same as attaching a nozzle and hose to one of the openings. But when I cycled a few reservoirs at slightly different coolant levels, they both got quiet right around the 5-min mark.
Unlike the serial connector acrylic piece, the bleed pipe's acrylic isn't sealed by o-ring against the tank wall. When you have air coming in from the top opening, it prefers to float up or get pushed through the small bleed hole in the acrylic (towards the front window). The lower opening going into the pump doesn't recirculate much of this air, so it results in a shorter bleed time.
Tim
lol.. i think i need to see one in person.. :P
But both of my units work great after i bleed them, so do i really want to tear apart my loops? :rofl:
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Almost all of my bubbles are out (would be 100% gone if I didn't RMA my board). I'd love to get a motherboard block, but tearing this build down scares me lol. Bleeding is just a tedious test of will.
Koolance ROCKS! Not bad for a coastie! lol
Will be receiving my Bleed kit soon hopefully :D cant wait to see how it works with the serial connector and 180 pipe on the bottom.
Can someone please tell which barbed fittings to use to fill this reservoir up via the front fill ports? I tried some Bitspower ones i had here but they don't screw in all the way, they are too wide to go in all the way and they leak as the o-ring doesn't compress. Anyone know what barbs will screw in all the way for a water tight seal?
Quote:
Originally Posted by petecario
I used a beat-up koolance 45 degree barb and it worked perfectly.
I used Danger Den/BP fatboy barbs for the funnel work. I also noticed that using a larger funnel works best. If the funnel bottom hole is large enough it will self purge air, if it's small it will tend to struggle with air exchange. Alternatively you could stick a small straw down the funnel as well to bleed air as you fill with water.
Thanks for that but I can't find a store in Aus that stocks them DD barbs. The Koolance ones look they'd also work wouldn't they? http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=521
You would think they would fit being the same brand, might have to get some and try :)
I have a couple spare koolance ones lying around that I used. Ask me nicely and I might send you one. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by petecario
PM me.
The picture is confusing if you're using serial ... you'll just remove the long plug, and put in the stub so you have both tanks :).Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatboy69
Actually your incorrect, Koolance have already answered my Q above.Quote:
Originally Posted by vivithemage
You can use the serial acrylic and new bleed kit plus long plug together for a 2 d5 series setup.
This product has now been updated to revision 1.3. We've flipped the front reservoir and bleed pipe so they correspond with the same side as their pump on the rear. This was done for ease-of-use by new customers and doesn't affect function or performance. The bleed pipe also comes pre-installed instead of being supplied separately like Rev 1.2. (Since the reservoirs are now opposite, so too is the included bleed pipe.)
Rev1.3 use the same serial connector as the original RP-452X2.
Tim
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...p-452x2_p0.jpg
Hi Tim.. This looks like it will finally solve the bleeding issues totally. :)
Umm would it be possible to see a full frontal picture if its not too much trouble. I ask because from the picture above i can see a totally different internal structure. Also i checked your website too and couldn't find one .
Cheers and kind regards :)
There would be no change to the bleeding, other than the pipe kit coming pre-installed. The front reservoir structure looks different since it's a mirror image of the previous revision. We just flipped the left and right tanks so they are on the same sides as their pumps because it was confusing new customers. This revision is now available: http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...roduct_id=2025.
Tim
I bought this new revision 1.3.
You flipped the front but looks like you forgot to flip the acrylic piece of the 180-degree connector. :(
I'm using 2 RP-452X2 ver 1.3 with 4 MCP-655 in my latest build, and I have a question.
With 4 pumps MCP655, 4 Triple-120 rads, 2 Quad-120 rads, CPU block (i7 2600K at 5.0 24/7) + 3 GPUs blocks (6990+6970+6970), should I do a single gigantic ''in serie'' loop, or do 3 separated loops?
Just not sure what to do... Need some opinions. :)
I already have another RP-452X2 v1.3 in my other computer. It was a breeze to bleed. :)
I would do 2 loops, 1-2 triples on the i7 the rest on the gpu's
I love the RP-452X2 ver 1.3. :)
Everything is now done and working fine. I thought it would be complicated to bleed the 2 RP-452X2 with 4 pumps in serie, but finally it was really easy, and done in less then 30 minutes.
6 liters of water total to fill my loop! Crazy. :)
decided to get this and installed it last week, ive got version 1.3 and using it as a split res 1 for cpu loop other for gfx loop. i read this thread and few threads elswhere but was not at all prepared for the effort needed to get rid of the bubbles or the noises both pumps when i first filled both loops actually thought i may have dammaged both pumps at first but it became obvious it was air. 1 week later ive still got some bubbles left but over all very happy with it.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...o/IMG_0777.jpg
<3 Koolance res's... they have a very nice bling to them at a classic look.
the only thing im missing is the single bay, and the one with the integrated DDC's.
Yes my system is tri loop :P And yes u are counting 6 pumps... 4 ddc's and 2 d5's
oh lemme tell u guys something tho... the tube res's... if ur interested in 1, get it.
I have used tube res's from all vendors, except phobya... because it was dayam near hard to get when i was shopping for them.
Every Vendor has its ups and downs... but i love koolance's because its completely modular, and u build it to the way u like it.
wow that is amazing
I've just ordered the rev 1.3 with the 180d connector. Question is do i connect the top 2 or bottom 2 holes to run the pumps in series? Still pretty confused after reading the entire thread.
Phil
Pump -> into the inlet of pump 2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philwong
So look for a hole on one side where you see the entry into the res, that is going into the hole which is blacked out on the other side.
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...rp452x2_p1.jpg
Thanks for responding to my query, but I've difficulties deciphering your reply.
Can I assume I'll have to connect the connecting pipe between P1 [IN] and P2 [OUT]
Phil
Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
All i want is two RP 450X2's :(
yup... P1 out should go into P2 in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philwong
lulz... the single bay...Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester
yah i want one to play with but im sort of on sabatical from this hobby.
Geez, this is exactly the opposite of what I'm asking. HELP!!! Tim, where are you??Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Phil
Geez, this is exactly the opposite of what I'm asking. HELP!!! Tim, where are you??Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Phil
the way you have it setup doesnt matter if your using the new revisions.
The way we showed u up top was when we had bleeding issues.
You see how its configed in that pic? it leaves the outlet at the lowest level so water will bleed easier.
This doesnt apply anymore with the bleed kit, and the new revisions.
Koolance took what martin and i told them in making this thing easier for us, and adapted it, so it doesnt matter where the pipe is located as long as its not feeding itself..
ie. P1 -> P1 <--- as u can see this would just loop p1.
think of water as a vector which moves in 1 direction.
You want to keep that vector in 1 direction, and not loop back around.
That vector tho was used at the lowest spot so it wouldnt pull the air stuck in the res and keep spinning it though your system.
This killed the entire bleeding aspect of the first gen bay res's koolance had.
The new revisions fixed this... and the bleed kit was designed for the older res's.
As long as you have one pump going into another pump, it doesn't really matter and can be setup either way. If you're using the bleed pipe and acrylic reservoir bypass (from the 180 fitting), I'd recommend doing the bottom ports. This will avoid some flow restriction by taking advantage of the acrylic piece. Using the acrylic piece, you can combine reservoirs or leave them separate since only pump #2 will be using it.
You
The back plumbing of rev.1.3 is identical to the earlier versions. The only change we made was flipping the reservoirs so they now correspond with the same side pump on back.
Tim
Can i use the acrylic bypass piece from the 180d kit, but loop the top ports?Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
Phil
I have rev 1.3 and it wasn't to bad to bleed. I let it run overnight and in the morning all the air was out. I am currently only using one pump in the system though so this may be why it seemed to bleed so easily. I'll leave more feedback when I add another D5.
Tim?Quote:
Originally Posted by Philwong
Phil
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNUxdfg_aZ0
It bleeds!! Took about 2 hours to clear most of the bubbles.
Phil