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Hicks helped me out alot on the electrical as I've said before also :D. I was thinking a pump like one of the Iwaki aquarium pumps would make a great flow booster:
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewIt...%20(1500%20gph)
Behind the CPU blocks and collection res. Even on the most powerful pumps out of that selection seems like it produces less than 15psi so with the placement the CPU blocks should be safe?
Personally I think the best pump for you would be a heating circulator
For low power use and selectable head and flow curves the Grundfos alpha2 is a good one..... dl the literature and have a look at the graphs http://www.grundfos.com/web/grfosweb...25726B0036BD8D and in webcaps dl the data booklet
Edit: if you needed to take down a loop or two for servicing this range of pumps will auto adjust flow/head of the remaining loops
2nd EDIT I'm assuming that there is a USA version :shrug:
i'm just thinking you'll need a larger scale pump for this kind of project with the reservoir size, the dual radiators and the wide pipes.
if you can find one that is power adjustable such as variable resistor works or the volume in your car radio that should allow you to easily play with the settings,
you can also add another circulation pump to the tubing to aid the others with the load as been offered.
other than that, if the pump gets too strong for the circulation you can widen the pipes or add a pressure drop tank, it probably takes some tweaking to set it to flawlessly go.
just remember two principles,
pressure builds up when the pipes shrunk and loosens when the you add extra circulation for the fluids to go through, kind of same as overclocking.
you should check out what the guys here said too about the blocks PSI lose point, so you won't find your MB sunk under few mm of colored water after few hours or days of work,
be sure to check the system repeatedly to assure the tubes ain't sliding off they're spot or leaking due to pressure in the first few days.
this is basic and you might be aware of it yet it's worthy of repeating, keep it constantly in mind, that's what i would've done,
it might save you some later headache.
very nice project overall!
Wait... so you have a manifold made and a huge garage to work in, why are you messing with a t-line and multiple pumps? Just get a res going and either submerge a single large pump or throw it inline after the res.
Having the manifold after a large pump will allow you to control pressure if you add more lines than you need (just have them lead directly back to the res and open them if you think pressure's too high.) Besides, you can add redundancy this way by adding a second pump in series. I think if one of the pumps dies with the way you have it set up now, the system directly after it will overheat.
It'd go like this:
res>pump>rad>manifold>CPU/GPU>res [multiplied by X number of loops]
res>pump>rad>manifold>res [for pressure relief, if you're worried]
But, who knows, maybe my water cooling logic's off :shrug:
In any event... kickass build. Wish I had a garage to do awesome stuff like this in :up:
just a thought,
if you have a refrigerator in the garage, can you place the radiators within it, drilling side intake and outtake holes while sealing the tubes going through with a dual sided screws with some o-rings or gaskets in the middle?
would it handle the heat?
you can use this ref' to store food or your experimental man-power potions ;) while it's there and at the same time it would cool the system down to circulating 4C.
the hot air coming out of the rad's can be taken out by a small venting structure which is mounted to the radiator/s flows in a narrowing structure to dual 1" or more pipes going out side of the fridge with two side holes as well,
the hot air would naturally elevate upwards and so will take itself out to the garage, it could also heat your place through the winter and save some on the power bill, at the same time you also save the need to add fans.
Wow. :shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by onex
Wow, If you have a refrigerator able to carry that heatload then ...just wow. blast chiller maybe ....refrigerator ? ...rads+food+potions?......No.
....and you would dump the heat from the refrigeration process into the house (and likely need no other)
I like joined up thinking of energy use :up:
The problem with using a refrig for cooling is that it roughly doubles your power costs: you pay once to heat up the water via the CPUs, and a second time to cool it down. Passive cooling is much less expensive, provided the difference between ambient and the heated water temp is large enough for it to be effective.
Also you'll kill the fridge. They aren't designed for a heat load.
yeah, yet some of the heat would come out, and it's more kind of if you already have it then why not bench it a little :).
and not sure you would kill it, yeah, but it's possible, you can place it in the freezer also, the heat should cream out of it due to the temperature difference.
SS setups works the same as fridges, yet they have much less "room" to handle and so much less heat,
an SS running 1/4 HP compressor can take you down to ~-15 at 120W?
so a fridge would set u up with ~4C with only having to handle the ambient outside and the food.
p.s - the OCZ Cryo-Z is set to off itself at 70C evap.
OT,
a year ago, while first seeing water cooling projects, it was soo crazy like saying "bah, this people are nuts",
that was a year or so after receiving the first computer here when buying a 250$ CPU seemed like a LOT of money!
then after some time, you buy you'r first I7 and a nice classified for it, an SS and an SSD and it's not that much anymore, those 20K that the 920 is doing a day at WCG seems all right, yet you start staring at these 980 6 cores cause you want to jump 6K places a day in the BOINC stats and reach the first 10K users!!
then you go over and see projects such as this one, with all the L5640's, the cascades at the sub-zero area and all the benches going on LN2 and breaking 8Ghz records and many others, and this "hobby" becomes something which just triggers you on and on.
and that's what so fabulous about this site, where such crazy people from all over come and share they're work, bringing up new idea's and nutty setups, and that's what's in fact is pushing creativity and enthusiasm even further and further on!
this is just a small idea though..
I've wanted to build one where I exhaust the warm air under the house where it's always cool ... except I never seem to get around to actually DOING anything about it. :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by AceNZ
stick a beer chiller under the house ...pipe the 10 deg water up to your rigs and have cool beer on tap...how's that for an integrated solution?
it doesn't seem like a lot of work :).Quote:
I've wanted to build one where I exhaust the warm air under the house where it's always cool ... except I never seem to get around to actually DOING anything about it.
^^ I like that idea... Best one I've heard yet. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
I did some research one these, the Grundfos Alpha2 looks nice and the built in digital control is a nice feature and the wattage is great but the high PSI and Iron flange connectors are making me that this might not be the best pump for the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
Heres one for sale in the US; http://www.pexsupply.com/Grundfos-59...irculator-Pump And heres a spec sheet for the pump, http://net.grundfos.com/doc/webnet/p...h-Bulletin.pdf.
At 150 PSI i'm afraid everything about my Water Cooling system would explode instantly :eek: I'm thinking an aquarium pump with large flange style outlets and inlets and a good amount of head pressure might be a little more kind on my system. I think that Grandfos pump would probably be best if I had ran all my plumbing (except for the computer water lines) with copper piping which would have been nice. It might work if I get a copper fitting that immediately steps up the size of the outlet so I can take it from whatever size the outlet is to a larger diameter tube and drop the PSI and maybe keep some of the head pressure. I'm going to write a second post with some more loop diagrams (this Sayaa is getting out of control :D)
All good advise, thanks :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by onex
The T-line in the last diagram I drew was for a fillport at the highest point in my system, somewhere I do need a fillport. In my current system (that sucks :p:) the individual T lines are for CPU blocks of 3 blocks. So with 6 outlets and inlets I could run a max of 6 x 3 computers or 18 computers with that design. Or that was my thinking at least.Quote:
Originally Posted by artemm
That would be a cool (:ROTF:) side project for benching or screwing around with something. My design goal of my current system is that the the radiators exhaust the heater air out my garage window and slowly draws fresh air into the garage. If the exhausting of the heat doesn't work then my project is sunk (I should have somehow tested this but I just got the rest of my fans and... well just haven't gotten around to it.) Even with 3 computers running on air dumping heat into the garage the garage overheats and so do the computers. So to really make this work I need to be exhausting the heated air outside the garage or else... :explode2:Quote:
Originally Posted by onex
I'm off to go cruise the plumbing section of HD to see if I get any new inspirations, then work on some revised diagrams later tonight :)
I just saw the prices for you guys...1st time I ever saw it being twice as much over there. lord knows what a stainless one costs :shakes:
The 150psi figure is not the pressure it develops....rather the max system pressure it would withstand...max head pressure is 19ft so <2 atm
Well I never made it out of the garage tonight :ROTF: Decided to start ripping apart my setup and try a rebuild. While I don't want to say my flow issues are 'solved' I think its fair to say 'drastically improved.'
I moved one of my reservoirs to reduce the pressure. Before all the weight of the water in the top res (~2 gallons) was pushing down on my pumps, plus the height to pump up 3'. Now the weight of the water is balanced in each reservoir reducing pressure on the pumps (in theory.) I'm feeling better about this, setting up a sub-loop or two this weekend should give me an idea if I need more pumping power or not.
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ct/Newres2.jpg
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ct/Toobing.jpg
These have been sitting on my kitchen table, taunting me to get them running every time I walk by... bastards! (excuse the TIM smeared all over one dirty dirty chip.)
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p.../Chip-p0rn.jpg
CPU blocks showed up today; that was the last component I needed (besides fixing flow rate and setting up all the fans to work.)
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ect/blocks.jpg
I'll work on the fans and pump mounting in hopes of getting a loop test run this weekend.
trn, as a trade mechanic, when I seen those car rads inside a thread for wgc, inside a computer forum......I thought damn if only you were a woman. Seriously though seeing those 2 rads ready to go into your cooling project all I could think was how awsome is this going to be. I started getting Ideas of how I might incorporate other automotive stuff in there to make it more manly....maby a cummins block for the res...eh stevil? LOL.
Awsome project, awsome gear, awsome thread, I am wtfbbq'd to death mate, good job wow!
Edit: those pipeing, manifolds and pump systems you got there is befitting a grow op....not that i'd know anything about that lol. I have learned a ton from this thread, thanks!
:rofl::rofl::ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Firechicken
I could use a turbo-diesel powered water pump :)
And my energy usage will be befiting a grow opp also; and I would know something about that :yepp: But that was a looong time ago... That has to be about the only more energy intensive 'project' I can think of; a couple of 1000W bulbs + fans and water gear could pile up the energy usage really quickly... and if someone looks in my side window right now they see all these pumps and tubing going everywhere... I plan to get a privacy curtain up over the top half of the window to obscure the pump + tube view. And also by the time I get 10+ GB Mobo's and a few PSU's with blue lights all over them my garage is going to be glowing like the mothership! :shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by Firechicken
Quote:
Originally Posted by trn
I agree with you on the curtain, beacuse you could easily give someone the wrong idea if they see all that gear that looks like grow gear. It would sure suck to have your door kicked down and have to fix it even if your not doing anything wrong. Especially if you live in a "Good ol Boy" state or area. This thread is so good I'm reading it again, I am thinking about using your manifold for my 3 machines but on a much smaller scale, I have a massive Audi electric water pump capable of cooling a turbo engine without the main pump working, and a rad, I'll just need to get a small fan like yours as the stock Audi one is like a jet taking off, it would break your arm if you got it caught in there.
Cheers.
Oh BTW, You wouldn't theoretically be talking about one of these now would you? :wasntme:
Nor would I want anyone to know I have 10+ computers in my garage. The computers are high value, I live in a save area but you never know... One of my neighbors commented that it looked like I was building my own distillery.Quote:
Originally Posted by Firechicken
If your going to build a manifold like reservoir don't use 4" diameter PVC piping as the main body :) The manifold/reservoir became very huge very quickly. Just the reservoirs hold ~2 gallons each plus an extra two gallons of water in the rads, that ends up becoming a lot of water and very heavy.
That stock Audi fan might be a very good option if its undervolted. Stock should be 12V, if you try running that Audi fan at 6V - 8V you might get really good results. Fallwind runs Car Rad fans undervolted in his setup. I have cheesy ebay aftermarket radiator fans but I get the feeling stock fans undervolted would be better quality and a better option.
That bulb will light your house (with a ballast of course.) :D
Power cords should go out by Saturday... might be able to get them out this afternoon. Not sure.
I don't know if you ever measured the power usage of your box fan but I measured mine the other day. Surprisingly (to me) high power usage for mine. It has 3 speeds, on speed 1 (low) it was 74W. Speed 2 = 86W. Speed 3 = 106W.
I love a good build thread just like anyone...
But to get 100k per day, can't you just have 3-4 aircooled boxes pluggd into the wall? Am I missing something? Are you shooting for 100k WCG points/day or some other point system??
He's talking 100,000BOINC PPD..equals 700,000 WCG PPDQuote:
Originally Posted by charlie
that's kinda' what I thought... then that's quite the goal :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Movieman
that's a lot...
like 20 i7 rigs... or half a dozen top shelf Westie rigs.
And I was thinking I set my goals to low (since the date was 1/23/2011 :shrug:)
I have:
10 - L5640
2 - 980x
2 - 970
2 - 920
1 - dual E5520
1 - 930
1 - W3520
I think I need to get rid of some 45nm's it will be difficult to plug them back in after putting them on the kill-a-watt compared with the 32nm hexas. (250w - 280w for the 45nm quads @4.0GHz vs 175w for the l5640's at 3.7GHz) So I plan to dump the 920's. Even without the 2 920's If I get everything else up and running that should be equal to 100,000 boinc. I know i'm still short on some RAM and mobo's and maybe some other components :shrug: I'll figure the rest out later once I start to get some loops up and going.
Not good power scaling for the slower speeds, and bad static pressure as someone else mentioned. To bad because the size and cost are attractive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom128
Did you ever think of running a heating circulator pump like this to get your flow problems fixed.
Low power draw, good head pressure, etc.
http://images.grainger.com/B315_35/i...4PC90_AS01.JPG
Link to specs. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TAC...C90?Pid=search
This is just an example of what you could use. There are many other pumps available to choose from.
Max. Working Pressure (PSI) 125Quote:
Originally Posted by Pointhore
Wouldn't that pop every seal in the waterblocks?
Max working pressure is 125psi but it can only push 10' of head, which is about 4.3psi. The working pressure is to do with the pump seals, not the discharge pressure.
Deja vu? Might need to consider the potable water versions made of stainless or bronze if you want to resolve the dissimilar metals thing
Sorry if it was mentioned before. I read the whole thread and did not see any mention of it. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
Must be my old age, I think my eyes are going. :yepp:
found you this:
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/img/SwiftechMCR220PD2.png
this site is like the TFT-Central for water cooling,
you can see in the graph that these huge rad's might be the culprit which takes the pressure down,
the 3 radiators shown differ in the pressure drop when the GPM count goes up,
the author reffers to the fact that adding another one of these MCR220's (or any other for that matter) would lift the drop rate at up to 2 times (or a bit less as the GPM drops the resistance would drop either).
differences between radiators could be due to the curving angle of the coils, the size the fluid has to go through, the material used and it's resistance and (can't remember that word) but the actual quality of friction factor from the inside.
maybe even the substance that is being used and it's thickness.
there are ways and tools to check these drops,
link to the article:
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/Swifte...20-Review.html
that probably should be the main issue burden on these pumps
E:
just seen you actually kind of solved it!
Totally Deja Vu and still a good suggestion.Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
I've always heard not to mix metals such as AL and CU in water cooling loops. What does this cause? A brass pump would keep all my metals brass, CU, nickel (and a small amount of galvanized (zinc plated) steel.) If It slowly causes deposits and ruins a CPU block in 2 years or something minor like that then I don't care. Bronze pumps are $100 more than the cast iron equivalents. If it is worth it then i'll invest in the bronze.
With my reconfiguration and improved flow rates I need less pumping power now from a booster pump; I might even be able to get away without one but that doesn't' seem wise from what I've seen.
Also If i place 2 pumps in a loop in serial and they have different flow rates will that be a problem? MCP665's have 5.3GPM and even the Taco 1/35HP seems to crush that in GPM. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TAC...427?Pid=search. Or a 1/25HP also blows away the MCP655 in flow rate. Does anyone think this would create a problem with the 655's not being able to pump enough water to supply the in-line pump and the in-line pumping more than the 655's can flow?
It also seems these pumps have 3/4" interior dimension threaded fittings on them. *edit* I don't trust my research, these look like 3/4" outside diameter *edit.* My rad lines are 1-1/2" and 1-1/4" so stepping up the pipe/tube sizing should increase the head pressure help keep down the flow rate somewhat (though I estimate it would still be 2x more than a 655 :shrug:)
You can always put some kind of restriction in the line to reduce excessive flow rates. If you put the restriction on the suction side of the pump it's motor will draw less power. If you put it on the discharge you will end up with less flow of course but the pump will be pushing more pressure and draw full power.
Personally I would use a good quality auto coolant additive (anti-freeze) at a fairly low concentration then run dissimilar metals ...seems to work in cars and that at high temps. I have this just now (but removed most alu after 6 months) running the past year in a whole board under water rig and have seen no deterioration in temps. I will probably take it down before Christmas and flush etc so I won't be absolutely sure till then.
Normal rads are usually copper pipe and brass ends/tanks. I think that for the amount of time that we normally expect rigs to last we should be able to ignore the dissimilar metal argument if using a corrosion inhibitor
aw hell... next problem.... FANS!
I temporarily rigged up all my fans for a test run tonight. Good news is they moved a ton of air and created a strong pull from inside my garage and nice breeze outside my exterior window.
Bad news is the power... these fans (despite my earlier testing) undervolt like :banana::banana::banana::banana:! They can't seem to run and draw less than ~70 or 80w or so and they are loud (minor concern.) I had all 6 connected to a Lamptron FC-6 which was overloaded by a factor of about 2! And I had that Lamptron connected with only one PSU line. I shut it down after trying my best to make these fans run. If I left them going for longer wires would burn or the fan controller would die a sparky death.
Pumps have been OK; I let them run for 24 hours, no leaks and 5 pumps run at 110w. Flow still unknown because I didn't hook them up to any blocks yet.
Time to rethink my fan's. Currently I was using:
5 - 14"
1- 12"
Suggestions?
Try wiring two fans in series with each other, then to the 12V supply. That would give each fan 6 volts.
Remember you're using two car radiators to offload heat here, so you're not going to need a turbine to move enough air, in fact you may not need much air flow at all.
What I've been thinking about using is barrel fans, like you see in domestic room heaters. They can't push any real static pressure but they move a ton of volume, use little power and they're pretty quiet.
I'll try the 6v, but I don't think they even start moving till about 9v. Maybe I'll test one with a multimeter first to find the starting voltage.
PPC case fans... seem to weak:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24345
Newark browsing for HVAC barrel type fans:
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/bro...lues%3D1001783
smaller diameter than id like but i'm sure the static pressure of the things are great and the watts look nice on these and they are more expensive.
Something like this might do it:
http://www.newark.com/sunon/a1259-mb...vac/dp/20M3858 26.45W and it runs on 110v so I don't need to use a computer PSU which is nice.
http://www.newark.com/adda/ak2582hb-...fan/dp/58P0939 another newark option, these look more power hungry.
http://www.newark.com/sunon/a1259-mb...vac/dp/20M3858
These are good size fans but I'm not sure about the 52dba noise level.
Noise should be OK (in the garage so... whatever :rolleyes:) Those Sunon fans look like the ones to beat so far:Quote:
Originally Posted by D_A
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ect/sunon1.jpg
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ect/sunon2.jpg
Poor garage is gonna feel like a wind sock!
I can hope :D Since its Thursday night I got all weekend to browse for fans before ordering monday :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by D_A
I'd suggest using 120v fans if possible. They're cheap, efficient, move a ton of air and come with a speed switch. One of those big square box fans would be best/easiest if possible. If not, a couple ~12" desk fans would do the trick. I know whenever my car fans die, I'm going to rig up some desk fans. Remember that you don't actually have to mount the fans directly to the rad. If the rads are in an enclosure(as they appear to be), you can make cutouts on the other side of the enclosure and mount the fans there. Have them sucking or blowing air into the enclusure and out through the rads. It's actually more efficient that way and exposes more rad surface area to air flow.
Just for reference, here's some pics of a farm I built a few years back. It held 6 rigs and was cooled by 4 3x120mm rads with a disassembled 12" desk fan for moving air. The fan drew air in through the rads and then pushed it out the top. Worked great!
http://www.tempo-topaz-performance.c...reno%20002.jpg
http://www.tempo-topaz-performance.c...reno%20003.jpg
Sorry If I hijack this thread,
can I ask fallwind to see internal of the box I like how you manage the cooler maybe your internal box view will give me more idea for my rendering farm.
Thanks again sorry for hijack
Maybe if you install BOINC on your farm he'll play show and tell with you. ;)
Rembulan, PM sent. :up:
@ D A Sorry Sir the rendering farm already full loaded may be after I can buy some SR I can spare some X58 with I920 for cruching
@Fallwind Thanks for Pic really open my mind
I remember that build. I think the thread was titled, "new barn for the farm animals" or something like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by fallwind
I agree with fallwind, the fans don't need to be right on the radiator, in fact it is probably better if it isn't. If the fan is right on the radiator, there is a dead spot in the middle of the fan where the air hardly moves. That is why fan shrouds were great.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hedge
I agree also, I built my radiator box with 2 x 8's so the interior depth is nearly 8 inches and my rads are only ~2" in height. The box is a shroud so the fans can slowly force air through the entire surface of the radiators. The fans i'm mounting on the top exterior surface of the Rad's.
I like the suggestion of using disassembled 115 off the shelf fans but for my project to work airflow is just to critical. If the fans are unable to force the air though my shroud, rads, then exhaust out the side window then the heated air will back up into my garage very quickly pushing interior temperatures over 100F. I drew a quickie diagram to illustrate exactly whats going on inside that massive black box that sits in front of the window:
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ct/airflow.jpg
So with airflow being so critical I went ahead and ordered 6 of these http://www.newark.com/sunon/a1259-mb...vac/dp/20M3858. Unfortunately it will probably take two weeks or so before these things show up, i'm not expecting them anytime soon. I feel the high static pressure of these monster fans ought to ensure hot air is exhausted out my window and cooler air is drawn into the garage. My air intake is along the top edge of my 2 car garage door, roughly 1" - 1.5" gap extending the length of the door.
For pump testing I installed 1 sub loop of 3 rigs. The sub loop has a 970 > L5640 > L5640 > Res. Right now I only have the first rig, the 970 up for testing. Disregard the voltages in the CPUz shot of the 970, I did not do any tweaking of the voltages or testing. I entered bios once, turned bclk up to 168 (x25) for 4.2GHz and then just took a guess at a nice safe voltage a gulftown should run 4.2GHz at. I have no idea what the minimal voltage is required to run a 970 at 4.2GHz is right now, thats an issue for later. Loop works OK and flow is so-so. Not bad temps for passive cooling :cool: To help make sure I have no future flow problems I went ahead and ordered one of these http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TAC...C90?Pid=search along with flanges and O-Rings. I plan to install the pump between the 2 radiators (because there is lots of room for the pump there :rolleyes:)
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...t/subloop1.jpg
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ivetesting.jpg
The Fc1 Gigabyte UD3R rev 2.0 bios doesn't seem to like bclk 205 like my rev 1.0 does. I don't want to push qpi voltages higher than 1.32v to try and stabalize 3.7GHz so I think i'll drop the rev 2.0's down to 3.6GHz.
And thats about it for now, I'm still working with Linux trying to figure out how to make an install work as a headless cruncher. I tried Ubuntu but am giving up on Ubuntu, I don't like Debian based distro's. I dislike how the config files are setup and by default too much crap is installed and enabled so i'm back to Archlinux. Linux todo:
- Pick a desktop enviroment that is suitable for a cruncher and GUI login. I installed KDE base on Arch... I dunno why I guess because the new KDE is sweet and I wanted to screw around with it but its not very suitable for a cruncher; I think i'll probably end up with Xfce4. Fluxbox is OK but even more minimal than I need.
- Make x11vnc startup with a GUI login everytime the computer boots. I installed KDM but had no luck making x11vnc automatically yet. I'm sure this is jut a matter of screwing around with the setup more. Plus i think i'll install xdm along with xfce4 and ditch KDE and KDM.
- Boinc starts as a daemon... but doesn't do anything, it crashes or something :shrug:. The process is there, but does no work and the manager can't connect to it. Its not until I kill the process and restart boinc in a tty under my username that it starts to do work and I can connect with the manager. The daemon starts boinc with the user "boinc" which I thought might have been the culprit but I can't figure this one out yet, on my ubuntu machine the daemon starts up under the boinc user and works :shrug:
- Conkey; I need a task manager since xfce4 doesn't have a good task manager. Conkey seems OK... I don't like that it merges all the cores into one cpu usage bar (though maybe this is configurable??) And conkey shows a basic temperature (although I think for only 1 cpu??, but again I dunno.) So anyways I have to mess around with this and get a good conkey config.
- Figure out how to make the hostname of the Linux machines discoverable to Windows. My ubuntu install does this by default so I can connect to linux1.local (ubuntu machine) with VNC or whatnot. I can't connect to arch1.local or arch1 or anything, I have to manually find and connect to the IP which sucks. I think this has to do with IvP6 settings or somthing, again :shrug:
So still a lot of work to be done Linux wise, but I have downtime now while waiting for fans and extra pump.
How are the boards insulated from the racking? I ran some with neoprene under for a while and it all got stuck to the hot parts of the board. (sorry if you posted this already and I missed it)
That's why I run Ubuntu Server for my headless machines. VERY minimal install, no need for auto login since I don't use a desktop environment on them at all (I use ssh). I also use static IPs for machines on my network.
Good question, my first plan was to buy sheets of window glass to insulate the boards. A sheet of window glass comes precut and is like $2 or something very cheap. But right now i'm not sure if its needed, I bought metal wire shelves and they have a black epoxy coating on them, so while testing I just zip tie'd the boards directly to the shelves. So far zero heat problems or electrical grounding. While I continue to run my 1 test loop i'll keep a eye on this, but if it continues not to be an issue i'll just zip tie em right to the shelving.Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
I guess I was thinking that running 24/7 could just about produce enough heat on a component to "melt" the coating on the wire and give problems to say the least. I like the idea of glass by the way... how about you get say 3 * 2 inch strips per board...enough to insulate but lets the air get to the back of the board still. Just a thought ;)
My ubuntu install is unbuntu server, but I did install the desktop environment which then makes it pretty much the same as normal ubuntu :shrug:.) Ubuntu server is only minimal compared to unbuntu desktop :p: Even without the desktop enviroment it was asking me for upgrades and stuff like that. I'm sure its not bad, i'm just not liking these debian based distro's. I like files and folders to be more BSD like. If boinc ran native on BSD without Linux emulation I would be running FreeBSD on my *nix crunchers. Hell, I still might even give FreeBSD a go, I hear the linux emulation no or almost no effect on boinc performance.Quote:
Originally Posted by D_A
I use ssh also for most stuff but need a desktop enviroment for 10% of the admining (boincmgr really is the only thing.) Boinccmd is just awful and since the only thing these computers will be doing is running Boinc it would be nice to have Boincmgr.
I haven't run *nix in years, i'm finding it to be a bit like riding a bike, the basics came right back to me but I sure am rusty as hell! :D Btw, I have been impressed with the growth of Linux and the Distro's! Many of these newer distro's do all the hardware setup for you. LiveCD's are impressive, stuff just works with GUI's and the likes. Package managers have gui's and do most of the configuration of newly installed programs for you. KDE 4.3 is really a cool and configurable WDM. Linux has progressed to the point that an average person could install and run Linux as easily as Windows. If it wasn't for programs and games not being available on Linux I would run it on my main rig no questions.
A few days of running a 970 at 4.2GHz in 90F+ ambient temperatures ought to tell me if the coating is OK or not. I've been running the 970 all day; so far the backplate is warm but not too hot to touch.Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
Most distros now give you the option of automatic updates (you can turn it off in Ubuntu Server during the install if you prefer) and you can use the BOINC manager on your main machine to access and control BOINC on a headless one, there's no need to install the package on anything but your main rig.
Ehh I've seen that coating crack too many times to want to do that. Plus, sharp solder points could scratch and boom.Quote:
Originally Posted by trn
Honestly, I'd take a slab of cardboard to stick between the board and shelf. Free and works great. Ask me how I know... :ROTF:
Oh yeah... Duuuuh! :rofl: Thanks for the great idea; instead of screwing around with WM's and WDM's and vnc i'll just do it the easy way :D Now I just have to fix my boinc daemon and i'm good to do with linux :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by D_A
Ok, that sold me :D i'll find a way to insulate the boards :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparky
Yeah, if you've played with the command line before it really is quite simple. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by trn
I have 3 X58A-UD3's rev 2.0 running at the moment and in my experience I estimate they are all undervolting the QPI by .05-.07v so if you set 1.35v in the bios then the real voltage is only 1.28-1.29v.
This is the same on the FA and FB bios...
I do not know the QPI read points (feel free to point them out if anyone knows the location ;)) so I cannot confirm but the chips run stable at 1.275 QPI on other boards that I have measured with a DMM and they require 1.35 set in bios minimum for stability at the same clocks on the Gigabytes...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Biker
Good info; I use the Level 1 Line calibration which undervolts, but maybe not as bad as stock. I'm assuming QPI is undervolting more than the bios reading. I was currently trying bclk 205 at 1.32v QPI which works on my rev 1.0's, I'll try a bump to 1.34 and see if that works.
Perhaps I am over my head with this crowd but ... I've found that reducing the memory multi makes no difference on the crunching runtimes but it does allow me to lower the QPI freq (cuz minimum QPI is 2x ram) which in turn lets me run lower QPI volts.
You mean Uncore frequency? :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Snow Crash
QPI frequency is BCLK * 36x/40x/44x (also known as 4,8/5,6/6,4 GT/s).
Min. uncore speed = Dram speed * 2 is only valid on 45nm Bloomfields, by the way. Gulftown/Westmere are operating on a minimum uncore speed of Dram * 1,5 :)
On another note, I really hate how Asus, Gigabyte and most others are confusing the user with their stupid bios naming (only DFI and EVGA do it right AFAIK). What they call "QPI voltage" in bios is, in fact, CPU VTT voltage, same as with good old LGA775. It has absolutely nothing to do with the QPI link :rolleyes:
They might as well have called it "BCLK voltage" so ppl would know what to crank up for high BCLKs :shakes: :rolleyes:
Edit: Almost forgot... nice progress there trn, keep it coming :up:
And yeah, I wouldn't recommend going past 1,3V VTT on a 32nm A0 for 24/7 crunching, so considering the Vdroop, 1,35V Bios VTT is the max I would recommend.
Also try and keep the uncore (CPU-Z reports it as "NB Speed") at or below 3Ghz, as that will lower your VTT requirements immensely.
you should try maybe plywood?Quote:
Ok, that sold me i'll find a way to insulate the boards
these 5mm thick pieces, isolates, flexible, cut-able, non fragile and soft on taking any sharp edges :).
Which is a good idea because I have lots of scrap plywood available and can cut some strips to stand the boards off the shelves and still allow good airflow. seems low tech but ought to work nicely. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by onex
btw,
VTT is (was) the FSB termination voltage so that can be that ASUS and GB call it so as FSB was replaced by QPI.Quote:
On another note, I really hate how Asus, Gigabyte and most others are confusing the user with their stupid bios naming (only DFI and EVGA do it right AFAIK). What they call "QPI voltage" in bios is, in fact, CPU VTT voltage, same as with good old LGA775. It has absolutely nothing to do with the QPI link
Naming scheme or not; I do prefer how GB handles VTT/QPI voltage in bios vs. EVGA. Setting 1.32v (gb) or whatever setting is much more logical than +200mv (evga)
Yeah I didn't like that on the E760. Thankfully evga has already changed it, at least on my SR-2 you can directly type in the desired VTT voltage :)Quote:
Originally Posted by trn
What I never understood with GB is why none of their boards have VTT readout. I even asked one of their reps at CeBit, and he said "use Easytune".
Guess what, Easytune doesn't show it either :rolleyes:
Besides I could never change even 1 voltage setting with Easytune on my GB Extreme without causing a hardlock :p:
Does it work on the UD3R?
Easytune???
I'm not rushing back to hardlock city either ;)
trn, this article confirms the VTT / QPI undervolt on the X58A-UD7 rev 2 and since the UD3 rev 2 is close to the same board I think this is more supporting evidence to back up the same undervolt happening on the our boards...
I am checking the read points now to confirm but I am far from 100% they are in the same spot as shown on in the link above for the UD7 rev 2...
Biker, Good read. I went ahead and upped the QPI(vtt :)) voltage to 1.34 on my UD3R rev 2.0's running at bclk 205 and so far they have been stable as a rock.
Easytune sucks!!!! I abandoned it long ago and will never go back! ET is good for nothing but hardlocks and it doesn't even seem to read the voltages right (before it hardlocks.) And yeah, i'm using an E760 on my main rig so I get to deal with the wacky +mv VTT :rolleyes: Can't say it matters much these days since I have a 980x in it for now and never mess with the 980x really or even have time to tweak settings etc on this rig; much more work to be done elsewhere :D
I found one L5640 in my batch that seems to not like to OC last night. I'll mess around with it later to see exactly what that one problem chip can do, not sure if I know how to run a CPU with stock settings :)
And I finished setting up my test loop, I have a 970 @ 4.2GHz, and 2 L5640's at 3.7GHz on one loop and an air cooled gtx460 to 'stress test' my cooling (no fans still.) So far passively the loop is handling it just fine, temps on the 970 only raised 1 - 2c when the extra computers and 460's were added; looks like a good sign once I get the system rebuilt with an extra pump and have fans :)
And despite all my previous :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:ing and whining about ubuntu I went ahead and installed ubuntu server on some more computers and for now plan on using ubuntu server for more crunching rigs. I still don't like the debian file system, I still don't like apt-get, I don't like sudo vs su, I don't like the mess of package systems deb apt-get apptitude and whatever else its got, and the ubuntu wiki isn't that great. But :banana::banana::banana::banana: it, ubuntu works :D
You can still use su if you want to. The Ubuntu forums gods will try to rain thunder, torment and bannage on me for mentioning this (blow me, Ubuntu mods), as it's not "the Ubuntu way", but you can type "sudo su" and you're there. No need for root password.
You also don't HAVE to install everything from the repos, either. Compiling things yourself works just fine and you can either do it "old skool" and leave the fresh toys in whatever directory you like or compile into deb packages and use the package manager.
I was typing that paragraph about ubuntu just thinking "D_A is going to have something to say about this" :D The truth that I realized is that since these are just crunching only machines... none of my gripes about Ubuntu matters; as long as its stable and works then that serves my purpose. I also need something that is easy to admin for many machines and ubuntu server fits that criteria. If I get a Linux box up for an everyday web browser, a project to mess around with, desktop, non gaming machine (which is somewhere on my to-do list, near the bottom :)) then I will use a different distro; something that suites my taste better.Quote:
Originally Posted by D_A
Also while Linux has improved immensely since the stone ages when I last used *nix some i'm not a big fan of the fragmentation of some of the distro's like Ubuntu were your suppose to do things "the Ubuntu way" use the gnome ubuntu-desktop enviroment, use sudo, or whatever else. I'm more of the old school configurable linux fan; I was liking Arch and I used Gentoo when it was new and liked the build from source approach and configurability.
Oh, and the rest of my project is in limbo for awhile:
- Linux issues solved.
- WC loop is working just fine with only one sub-loop and no fans.
- I ordered fans (6) from newark when they only had 5 in stock so I may be waiting a while. The newark page said they would ship direct from the mfg or distributor or something. No word via email about an order processing or shipping info or whatnot. Their site quotes a depressing 10-15 business days for shipping (really? a web business can't ship a product in less time than that these days???)
- Waiting on my 'Taco' 1/35hp pump from grainger; then I have to tear down and rebuild the loop at least part way. I plan to install the pump in between the two rads were I currently have a 1.5" ID hose bridge because I have space there and it should be easy (famous last words.) I'm not expecting fast shipping from grainger, I would consider myself lucky to get the pump this week.
- I have 9 out of my 14 hexacore's up and running; 1 isn't OC'd and another only has a mild OC. Running that setup for this week without messing with them constantly ought to give me an idea of what to expect later. I'm not running a very point friendly WCG mix of projects right now though. Linux boxes are on CEP2 WU's, windows boxes are finishing up some C4CW WU's before going back to 'exclusive' DDT2 (which really means all projects because there are so few DDT2 WU's these days.) Looks like alot of HPF2 WU's in the que which suck balls point wise if they don't throw a computation error.
I'll comment on this particular paragraph because I think you have a good point. The "Ubuntu way" is a crock. I'm a big fan of being able to do what I want to my system when and how I want to. If the "Ubuntu Way (TM)" doesn't let me, then I find a way to do it MY way.Quote:
Originally Posted by trn
While you CAN choose a variety of desktops instead of Gnome, it's the default. There are other install CDs/DVDs available with KDE, XFCE etc on them, but you have to hunt for them or mess around installing things yourself and switch, which is a right pain IMHO.
As for sudo, well there are some good reasons for it to exist ... but I have to admit to using su when I'm compiling kernels coz it lets me do stuff that sudo doesn't, at least not easily.
trn is XP Pro a viable OS for this kind of thing? Not sure what XP's limitations are for what you're doing.
If it would work OK, PM me.
I installed 1 XP x64 cruncher yesterday, and I plan on installing one more. Just those two so they can crunch WCG and GPUGrid at the same time. I'm happy to keep a mix of OS's for now. Some windows computers, Win7 and XP x64 and also some Linux boxes. I figure a mix is good; I can always crunch projects that are only available for Linux or maybe something is only available or for some odd reason actually runs better on windows. Of the rest of my rigs I plan to install one more XP x64 rig and then everything else from now on Linux. And maybe later if XP x64 is working good i'll convert a Win7 or two more over to XP x64 so I can always have some good host available to Crunch both WCG and GPUGrid on.
D_A, have you ever messed around with Ganglia? It seems a bit excessive for a WCG farm but might be a cool way performance monitor many linux machines. http://ganglia.sourceforge.net/
Hey! You leave my ganglia out of ... oh you mean the software package. Nope, never played with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by trn
I wanted to build a cluster for ages, still do, but I've put that on hold for the time being. This sounds like something that would be handy for that.
I was thinking it might just be a handy monitoring tool for a grid. Looks like it takes system data from the individual nodes and uploads them to a single computer and creates graphs and whatnot of usage statics. Kinda pointless for WCG since load should always be 100% cpu and ram and disk usage aren't very important or changing.
trn, have you thought about separating each intake to a different setup?
using the same pipe over few processors won't cool down the second and the last one the same, imagine the temps going 40's at the first then outgoing at 60 to the second and 80 to the third,
why not using a 1 to 3 junction pipe running 3 separate hoses 1 for each setup, that would supply cooler water to each processor and the outtake won't add the temperatures up which should allow the radiator fans to cool it much better.
you'll need an intake pipe with an exit to each MB and an outtake pipe running from the first processor block, taking the load from the second and the third in serial.
so you have the same temperature fluid running through them all.
Onex, your right the first cpu will warm the water a little and the 2nd and 3rd processors won't get quite the best cooling but with my mix of CPU's and clocks I've planned for that. Most loops will be:Quote:
Originally Posted by onex
CPU1: 4.2GHz 980x or 970. At only 4.2GHz 980's are 970's take very little to keep cool
CPU2 and 3: L5640 3.7GHz @ 1.2vcore which remain ridiculously cool under water.
So with this CPU mix and 32nm's which arn't being pushed that hard they will remain quite cool. Right now on my test loop CPU1 is a 970 @ 4.2GHz without the Vcore tuned in and its running at 61-63c on the hottest core with no fans on the rads, just running passively and dumping heat into my garage. So far so good.
so are you running a triple loop as the earlier page picture shows or only a single setup? and if so, how hot is you'r 2nd and 3rd CPU at that loop or rather what are you expecting?
Running 2-4 CPU blocks in series is not a problem. My farm has 3 blocks on each "sub-loop" and the second and third CPU's don't run appreciably hotter than the first. You have to remember that the water is moving through each block so fast that it doesn't have time to increase in temp very much at all, maybe 1-2C. Having 1 or 2 massive radiators helps here as well, it assures that the water coming out of the pumps is at ambient temperature. So CPU block #1 gets ambient temp water, #2 gets ambient + 2C, #3 gets ambient +4C(rough guesses) which is more than sufficient for the kind of clocks we run for crunching.
yes, you are right, that is most correct,Quote:
You have to remember that the water is moving through each block so fast
water going up to 1200Lp/h :eek: or 20L a minute per pump on a 1/2" or 3/4" pipes shouldn't have much time to gather heat at such small (CPU block) area,
i just filled up a 1 Litter bottle to put in the fridge, at 10 seconds a litter or 6L per minute that was quite a nice flow!
I'm glad Fallwind answered that because really i'm just copying what I've seen him do with his farm. And with these 32nm Hexacores they run so cool that the maximum best water cooling isn't needed. On top of that the majority of my CPU's are L5640's @3.7GHz which would probably stay cool enough if you blew on them. But in my farm (eee-iii-eee-iii-ooo) I plan to run some gulftowns at 4.2GHz which still doesn't push the 32nm Hexa's very hard. Even without fans I have a 970 in the loop and the temps are between 61-63c on the hotest core and I might be able to even turn down the Vcore a few notches, I really haven't tested the Vcore at all. L5640's are running 53-55c currently. So... I don't think keeping any of the individual CPU's cool will be hard.
I do have two future heat concerns when I start upping the number of computers in the loops though:
1) I overload the cooling potential of two car big car radiators. I should be OK, but 15 over clocked CPU's do add up, thats over 3,000W of heat being dumped into the loop by the cpu's and pumps and my ambient temperatures probably average 90F most of the year.
2) My fans don't force the hot air to exhaust out the window and draw fresh air into the garage then heat builds up inside the garage and ambient temperatures start to push to 110F or 120F or more.
I feel my design is good and both of these issues should be taken care of (knock on wood :D)
Heres my testloop in action (Fallwind and all the guys with the good cable management put me to shame :))
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...t/testloop.jpg
And heres a Linux issue I ran into; I think I know why:
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...zerostatus.jpg
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ect/linux2.jpg
I'm guessing that 3GB of ram wasn't enough and the RAM was getting filled and causing all these Zero-status errors and screwing up everything. I just dropped a 4GB kit in this machine to test it out, if its running no problems in the morning then I found out the cause of the problem. I have two identical machines and linux installs running with 4GB and 6GB and zero problems.
If I had built this I think I would have fitted the exhaust to the top of the window and the intake under the rads so that in summer the air is drawn from inside to outside by fan in spring/fall you might run fanless to some degree as heat rises and is exhausted naturally then in deep cold winter reverse the flow to heat the room some if outside temps are not extreme.
With the amount of rad you have My guess is that it would take closer to 50 processors to overpower this setup
Question....Which way is the prevailing wind relative to the window?
Yeah, that deep cold winter they get in Florida... Brave sole he is. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
But exhausting up wouldn't be a bad idea... don't think it matters enough to rebuild though.
Prevailing wind is a good question though... is it going to blow into this window and overpower your fans?
BTW - you running and GPUGrid on there trn?
I would have rather build like this but i've built for my South Florida enviroment which means... summer 9 months of the year and fall/spring mashed into one non-summer period and 3 days of "winter." If anyone else is inspired to modify this type of design for their own project they should consider their environment. I don't get much wind, if any wind I would say parallel to the exterior exhaust window. Mounting my rads at 5' or more off the floor i've also run into a vertical space crunch with my massively tall reservoirs/manifolds, oops.Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
The reason I chose the top down build is because blowing rain can get in the window. With the fans and pumps mounted above the window they are safe from water that might short them out. I'm going to have to take my chances with the fans forcing enough air out the window; these sunon's I ordered look to have good static pressure and at 660cfm x 6 fans I roughly estimate they can turn over the air in my garage in 1.5 minutes.
I've been on GPUGrid for ~6 months. Right now my production has been down while I've been focusing on my rebuild. The gtx460 pictured I had to pull from the grid recently. That host is running Win XP x64 (ub34 l33t h4x0r3d supr3m3 version or somthing lame like that :() and the GPUGrid WU's were erroring out like crazy. I think its a problem with the OS and I need to reinstall a better copy of XP x64 (I have an oem copy that should work better I hope.) I also have a 2nd gtx460 that is off with MSI RMA service now. I bought it DOA out of the country ~ 2 months ago and finally got around to sending it in for US RMA (lets hope they can't figure out were I bought it; I pulled the Chinese stickers off the side, shhhh :D) When I get my GPU's all back up and running I hope to have:Quote:
Originally Posted by Otis11
2 gtx460's running on Win XP x64 host
1 gtx280 on a win7 box
And future upgrades to my main rig will include Nvidia GPU's so they can game (with my 3 monitor setup) and Crunch. I like GPUGrid but they lack the professionalism of WCG to inspire me to outfit all my rigs with GPUs or build a crazy GPU crunching farm.
trn, do you have anywhere where air can come INTO the garage?
cause otherwise you lower the air pressure while pushing air out, and to even that air would have to come in,
so you'r garage should look like a cooling case with push pull structure,
you can take what OC has said and set the exhaust exit on top of the intake entrance,
hot air would elevate up out side the widow and cooler air should come in from outside.
maybe you should set an air tunnel to move the hot air out of any cooler air reach, something like an L shaped wooden sleeve running out from the outtake fans,
wooden as it will not gather heat and maybe coating it with wax or something so it wouldn't get rotten when it rain,
so you should actually set it as an S with a bottom opening for the hot air to come out so water can't come in and fill you'r place in winter (if you have any).
110-120F is unacceptable, how can you even be there with such temps? and humidity would make you feel like you'r bathing in soup!
just be sure not to steam any of you'r neighbors!
I was thinking along the lines of onex about the negative pressure inside the garage but it's probably not a real issue. Air will come in through leaks all over the place, much like a manufacturing plant that tend to exhaust much more than they purposefully intake. If it is an issue, you could always install a vent in the garage (which it might already have anyway) and it will breathe fine.
trn - nice job designing the loop overall, I think you did a good job of trying to take everything into account that you could. What's your timeline for the other rigs?
I've removed the weather stripping from the top edge of my garage door for exactly the reasons that OneX mentions. Its a two car garage door so 20 or so feet long and the gap ranges from about 1-3/4" to 1-1/4" over the width of the door. A breeze can blow through this gap so i'm thinking this should be enough intake for my fans but testing will tell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rise
Unfortunately i'm dead in the water waiting for parts from industry supply companies. I received my 'taco' pump for boosting flow from grainger in a day but the flanges are back-ordered so that doesn't do me any good... No idea when my fans will get here, I ordered from Newark and the fans will ship from the manufacturer warehouse directly I think :shrug: Newarks supply was 5 fans and I ordered 6 :rolleyes: So i'm stuck waiting there... and I don't expect quick service from Newark or their supplier so i'm stuck waiting for fans and mounting flanges :(
So i've been taking this opportunity to scour ebay and try and get some good deals on more gigabyte UD3R's, I picked up a Rev 1.0 last night for $165 (I hope it works with a 32nm Gulftown or Westmere because I just sent out my last 45nm 1366 this morning; i'm thinking I should be OK, my other Rev1.0's say works with 32nm on their box.) I need to start searching for more DDR3 also and i'm sure i'm still short some PSU's. I've lost count of what numbers of components I have and what I still need :shrug:
OldChap here ...and judging by the fact I did not remember you are in deepest coldest Florida I'm guessing I lost a few more brain cells...why is it the memory ones all the time? :p:
Obviously my thoughts on the build were more in keeping with where I live. Here wind is a factor for 8 months of the year and the gales we often get have overpowered extract fans before here
I can see why (the wind, not the brain cells :)) I just checked a map to see were Plymouth is. That could make for some good cooling situations. if you kept computers inside and ran the plumbing outside right to a huge car radiator sitting outside in some gale force winds and cool temps. Brass/copper rads are weather resistant anyways so just let that thing sit outside passively with pumps and computers inside...Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap
Anyone can adapt these sorts of builds to best suit their environments. I want to see someone near a lake or river run submerged piping like a geo-thermal cooling, except this would be hydro-thermal... That would be a cool XS first build and much easier to sink piping in water than dig trenches for geothermal.
My post have been rather photo-less while i've been waiting for parts so...
My "Taco" flanges shows up tonight out of the blue :up: so now I can rebuild my loop this weekend with an extra pump to make sure that I have a nice level of overkill with my flow before I start building up the farm then have to tear everything down later to fix it :rolleyes: I'm still waiting for my fans from Newark; it would really make my day if they just showed up tomorrow but that seems to stand a snowballs chance in hell...
My Green Taco with flanges
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...oject/Taco.jpg
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ject/Taco2.jpg
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ct/flange1.jpg
I bought 1-1/2" flanges for 1-1/2" ID Plumbing pipes; i'm thinking I can buy more plastic barbs at HD and they fit perfectly.
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...ct/flange2.jpg
Salvaged a powercord from an old xerox laser printer that died at work :D I'll get 1 more rig up and running this weekend.
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p.../powercord.jpg
Plus 3 Linux hexa's
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...linuxboxes.jpg
Boincview p0rn: My 6 windows hexa's
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/p...boincview1.jpg
Hope my fans show up soon !
I tell you I've been terrible about those power cords................. I feel really bad about it, but they are never open when I get off work :(
No, my bad. I'm still stalled without fans and I really appreciate the help :up::up::up::up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky
do you need anything else? I also have a crap ton of power cords, vga cables, maybe even a few dvi cables, red sata cables, etc that I'm never going to use.
Thanks, I think the last things are major items :up: More motherboards and ram and PSU's.