Couldn't you just put a valve in the radiator loop and partially close it? That would, I think, slow the flow through the radiator and speed flow through the blocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehaze
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Couldn't you just put a valve in the radiator loop and partially close it? That would, I think, slow the flow through the radiator and speed flow through the blocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehaze
Still going to slow flow through rest of loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by surfhick
Flow through the pump will slow down overall, but if you do it *just* right you can increase flow through a specific subloop. Intentionally limiting your flow through one part is something that's kind of hard to recommend :eh:
No it doesn't work because it's a closed loop system and your dealing with a fixed volume of water any change to flow through the rad is insignificant. If you halve the flow through the rad your also halving the volume of water your dissipating the heat from so in the end any change you make basically cancels itself out.Quote:
Originally Posted by surfhick
Then to make matters worse you have now halved your heat dissipation while increasing your thermal transfer through the block so temps will be worse not better.
It's kind of difficult to understand because the whole process goes against intuition, I still don't have a full grasp of it but I think I am starting to get it :ROTF:
There is some more info in this thread:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=228901
Hey Boxmods,
Any chance of making a dual D5 or dual MCP355 res with separate chambers for two individual loops?
Thanks.
I am going to chime in here only because I'm curious and after pushing my 920 to 4.2GHz I couldn't keep it stable w/o temps over 90C in a room thats 76F.
Here is a little rundown of my setup - Bay Res - 355 w/ xspc top - HK3.0 - MCR120 - 2 Alphacool GPU blocks for my 4850x2 - MCR320
I believe that splitting up possibly enlarging my 120 to a 220 if room permits inside my case and increasing to a D5 pump would help me keep temps like this in check. I have since de-clocked to 3.8 (200x19) HT Off and hitting 64C max load. I would like to get this box up to 4.0 with HT on with reasonable temps, given the information provided does this seem to be a feasible possibility with running this new T3? I don't see how it would hinder my setup and increasing my flow would totally help, if I could fit more radiator in my box that would also help a good bit but one can only stuff so much in a box and still have it look pretty.
Same here, my CPU core temps and ambient temps are almost the same but my cores were just hitting 90. I have my OC at 4.0GHz 24/7 currently. When folding at 77*F ambient temps, my cores go into the low 80s.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
I'd suggest putting that mcr320 before the CPU. The heated water from the pump output is going directly to the CPU the way it is currently, and not helping your CPU temps.Quote:
Here is a little rundown of my setup - Bay Res - 355 w/ xspc top - HK3.0 - MCR120 - 2 Alphacool GPU blocks for my 4850x2 - MCR320
I would separate the loops into individual loops with a second pump and res personally. I can see where this res will help in some situations, but not a single loop with multiple GPU blocks and an I7. The heat from the GPU's will just bleed over to the CPU sub-loop and while the GPU's have a high tolerance for heat the I7 does not.
True, but I believe the heat from the i7's sub-loop would be hotter than from the GPUs sub-loop, so there should be no issues with the GPU's sub-loop increasing the CPU loop temps. And I think perhaps just the opposite.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Just a quick update...
Testing is complete and I am working on the data analysis now. Need to snap some better photos (I don't like the ones I took earlier), and get cracking on the review write-up. I'm going to push this in front of all the other reviews to get the data published ASAP.
good news skinnee :up: thanks
Thanks Skinnee.
Either way, you are going to be mixing the fluid, which means the temps from one will bleed to the other. If you have several hot components then the will just add to each other's heat output. I think this is a great for most loops with a single GPU, CPU and NB/Mosfet setup, but I don't see how it could lower the temps of a multi-GPU and CPU loop just by splitting them into two sub loops. Would it be better than a single loop, sure, but not better than two discreet loops. Would love to be proven wrong on this since I would rather have one pump and one res instead of two each.Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler358
As you stated, the GPUs have a higher tolerance for heat than the CPU. If the GPUs' cooler water can help cool the hotter CPU loop by mixing into the single res, then all the better I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Also looking forward to seeing Skinnee's results! :)
I do have a design for a dual D5 and a Dual DDC version. The issue for the dual D5, for me at least, is the loss of efficiency from an overall design approach. The dual D5 design is aimed more at redundancy for mission critical implementations and still uses the dual loop design with PEC.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
The DDC version is similar in layout to the other DDC dual pump with a few important tweaks. Vapor is mostly right when he mentioned that the DDC does not scale to the dual loop setup on the D5 exactly as it is, but I did find a way to get it VERY close. That design is a machined POM (delrin) part so it can enter production pretty fast once the design is sold and green lighted. I am not pushing it too much right now because I have a D5 pump top (single loop type) coming out shortly as well as a CPU block that is a totally new direction for blocks. Then there is Rain Maker, a complete line of radiators that I honestly believe will blow you guys away. If you think T3 is a different approach...Rain Maker is 10 times more innovative.
The point is The dual pump versions are down on the list a bit.
I think it would yes. Vapor has access to better numbers on all your components then I do so he could probably suggest better loops out of the gate...my napkin math suggests the GPU's on one loop. I also agree with you about keeping it pretty. If you have a rad mounted externally...your just not trying hard enough :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
Other posts are saying that the GPU's will dump heat into the CPU loop. Though that is not incorrect a more correct way to think about it is the loops reaching equilibrium. You can't just view it as the loops hitting their balance and stop there though as you have to factor in the much more efficient flow rate you also get. Of course more rad (up to a point) helps. Valor is a few orders of magnitude smarter then me so I would 100% wait for his take and for sure go with his loop recommendations.
Nah that Valor guy is kind of a douche. Vapor on the other hand is a WC guru.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
It sounds great that there are so many new designs in the pipeline, I do hope most if not all of them go into full commercial production. Looking forward to it!
I bet nobody is looking forward to them as much as me =)Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler358
Yes they do equalize.
Sigh. You wanna know the WORST part? Honest to God when I proofed that I saw I had put Valor (I watched 4 episodes of Angel back to back so Valor was on my mind I guess) and I went back and changed it...to Valor....again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kibbler
Sorry VAPOR. Everyone please feel free to call me BoxMods ;)
That's why when you date multiple girls...try to find ones with the same name =)
Yeah, that pipeline is long and slow as hell sometimes. Fortunately I am old and patient...sorta.
The real reason I have placed my GPU's under water was that the 4850x2 sounds like a rocketship taking off when the fans were on. Even with cpu core temps holding at 82C the gpu temps would rise about 1 or 2 degrees from where they were sitting idle, so the GPU temps I don't bother with.
As far as my radiator going into my res, I am a large tonnage chiller mechanic by trade so a little bit of thought went into that. I would much rather have a res full of the coldest water I can produce than to continually cool down a large heated pool. Next time you drive past some of those city buildings and see the "smoke" coming from the tops of them in the winter, that is more often than not their cooling tower. Though its an open loop the same principal applies. Pump -> Condenser of chiller -> Cooling tower -> Cooling tower sump. The added heat of the pump is negligible, the tower produces the coolest water possible and it sits in the sump ready to get pumped through.
One more question Box Gods, if I was to drill and tap a hole in the top of the res for a fill port would this effect the efficiency of the res in anyway? I wouldn't think so, but I thought I would check before doing so.
Thanks.
Also, thanks for all the hard work in bringing some really interesting and innovative products to water cooling. I definitely am interested to see what you do with rads and blocks. A completely new design, in my opinion, would be a welcome change.
Thank you again.
It can be done. A few things to keep in mind though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Try to place the hole as close to the front face as you can--because of the draft needed for molded parts, the wall thickness is greater towards the front. There is also no room to make the plug flush so you will most likely loose the bay directly above the T3, and you will have to pull that bay cover when you are going to slide the unit out to fill it.
Have you tried using the front ports? In almost all installations when you tip your case onto its back the T3 becomes the highest point in the loop. To my mind, even the largest heaviest cases (think DB's back breakers) are pretty easy to rotate onto their backs. Especially compared to moving the case so you have access to both side panels, removing both side panels, removing the rez mounting screws, sliding the rez out (meaning extra tube length needed) and then not being able to bleed ALL of the air out, awkward pouring with a chance of any spillage migrating into your machine, then reversing the whole process to button everything back up.
To drain the system I usually tip the machine onto its back, replace the plugs with fittings and a few feet of scrap tube, tilt the case onto its face and drain right into a bucket. Because there are 2 ports you can puff some air into one side to really speed things up.
Because of the front ports and the three over flow basins I am totally comfortable with running the machine for a few hours on a new install with the plugs out so I can replace any air that accumulates in the T3's domed inner face.
I sent Skinnee a "mock case" so he could more easily use the front ports as they were intended and see if they really help. I am thinking a guy that has to fill and drain loop after loop for testing will find out pretty fast if it is really a useful feature or not lol.
Yeah, I have a MM UF2O case and a top port would actually be easier for me to fill then to tip it on it's back. It's quite heavy with all the parts I have installed (check my sig). With a top port I would just remove my top panel unscrew the new port and fill. As far as draining goes, I use QD's and a t-fitting at the bottom port on each rad making it the lowest point and it drians very easy and in a matter of seconds, best damn thing I have ever installed. :D
Ok, so tapping the top with a port would be doable. Thank you for the answer and recommendation Boxgods.
The mock case or rack for mounting the TIII into worked really well. What was even better was I managed to get through testing a pump or radiator without getting wet socks for once (BlueAqua, Dangals, turtletrax and Charles_H know how often that happens). :DQuote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
The spill trays on the front of the TIII work great, all I needed was a paper towel handy to dab up my spills that were caught in the trays. Filling and draining were very easy when I tipped it back.
UTnorris, if you're going to be tapping the top, go towards one of the front corners, this will help get as much of the air out and TIII filled with as much water as possible. You will still have to do a bit of tilting, but not near as much.
Doh! I should have thought of the corner thing, sorry.Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
Thanks guys for the suggestions.
Utnorris - off topic, but I looked at your sig pic. Regarding your GPU blocks - I noticed that the nozzles between the blocks don't alternate, and it looks like water is passing right through the first block to the second. Is that really what's happening?Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Yes, it is running in parallel, works great.
Okay, but I guess I don't understand how water's getting to the first block? It seems the water is passing through the first to the second (without actually going through the block itself), and then out of the second and again passing through the first block. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
http://www.vacuumtube.org.uk/images/IMG_2182_large.jpg
3x GTX295 in parallel. 2x DDC 18W in series, 2x 3x120mm rads, for the GPU loop. All GPU's O/C'd to 720/1548/1080. Full load GPU temps 50-54 deg C on 22 deg C ambient.
Exactly, I didn't think it would be that good either, but it works great. I use to do them in series, but this seems to give me better flow and maybe that is what is making up for the difference, not sure since I am not an engineer, but it does work. For my situation it would be near impossible to run in series since the third card almost butts up against my side panel.
I guess I'm just not sure how water flows through the 1st and 2nd GPU blocks - it seems like they're getting by-passed.
I thought so too, but it does go through all three blocks.
Okay, sounds like it works well anyway.
And sorry for taking the thread off topic. :yawn:
Excuse my ignorance [i'm a bit of a nub] but I have a few questions,
1. In some cases, the 5.25" bays are positioned at a higher level than the PCIe slots, and thus the graphics card. In this situation, whereby the T3 is positioned higher than a graphics card [fitted with a water block] will there be any adverse effects on the performance of the loop? Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I have always thought that the pump should be placed as low as possible in a loop?
2. From what I understand, the T3 really shines in loops which have multiple water blocks/radiators [i.e. a CPU, 2xGPU] loop. Would it still perform well on a simple GPU only loop [360 Radiator, 1x GPU loop]? I ask because I see it as a great opportunity for future proofing, by using the T3 to pump a simple GPU only loop, with the ability to add more radiators, or blocks in the future, without having to sacrifice more space for another pump.
Thanks guys :D
The simplest explanation I've read is in the Hondacity's HeatKillers GTX285 in Triple Sli (simple test) thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erasmus354
:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by JackOfAll
Your right, that looks INSANE lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler358
1. If it were a sump pump of course, but in a closed loop no.Quote:
Originally Posted by India48
2. It will run one loop just fine and you make a great point about it's expandability.
No dumb questions man, and don't be afraid to try different approaches--if you get it absolutely perfect the first time then you missed out on part of the fun. Just look at the image above-- I am STILL scratching my head over THAT setup lol.
Awesome! Thanks for the reply BoxGods, it was really helpful. I'v been searching for a pump/res solution for quite some time now, and I think I have finally found it. I have been designing elaborate ways to mount pumps and reservoirs, with enough room left for the possibility of expansion, to no end. The T3 seems like its going to be the solution to my problems, whilst also looking awesome! Kudos mate!
Now I'v just got to figure out how to get one to Australia :D
I'm still unclear as to weather or not it's advisable to run a subloop with just a block on it, with a single rad on the second subloop with the other block...all fed from the same T3 w/pump.
I think there is a reseller Down Under coming on line here pretty soon. Not positive though. I will ask and let you know.Quote:
Originally Posted by India48
It will depend on the actual parts as to the ABSOLUTE best set up of the loop/s. If the block on the loop by itself likes a lot of flow or is more restrictive, and the size of the rad etc. Vapor seems to have numbers on every w/c component ever made :) and might be able to guide you if you listed the actual parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aielman
OK. I talked to Brian at PrimoChill and he said they were working with:Quote:
Originally Posted by India48
https://www.gammods.com.au/store/
But that they have yet to actually place an order. You might want to get in touch with them to see what the hold up is. Maybe have a mate or three do the same.
Hope that helps.
Wish you had posted 2 weeks ago as a friend of mine was there visiting his grand parents and could have just dropped one in the post for you =(
Thanks for checking on an Australian reseller for me mate. I'v purchased parts from Gammods before, and they are a pleasure to work with. I'll get in touch with them. I wish I had stumbled across this post 2 weeks ago too mate :D
Thanks for your help BoxGods.
Ok, so I just had a thought and this really probably only pertains to my setup, but can the res be mounted to where the pump is on the bottom or is that bad for the pump? This way I could avoid putting a fillport on top of the res and still take advantage of the overfill res. I am pretty sure a D5 can be mounted that way, but I just want to make sure. Also, does it matter if it is the D5 with the or without the speed control? waiting for Jab-tech to get them in stock, but I may go ahead and order one from Frozen.
Thanks.
Nevermind, I found my answers. Now I need to decide on who to order from. Anyone know when Jab-tech will have it? Only reason I ask is I get stuff from them within a day of ordering.
Thanks.
Wow! Just got a reply back from Jab-tech, they expect them on Monday. Talk about late support and quick response. I just sent them an email an hour ago and they responded just a few minutes ago. My time is almost 1am. Now that is service. Hopefully they will be here and I can order it Tuesday and have it by Wednesday.
Yes you can mount it on the top of your case. DB is doing a mod with one mounted that way now in fact.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Will have pictures by the end of the day ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Sweet and with Jab-tech hopefully getting them on Monday I should have one mid-next week. Next week will be fun, got my Classified coming back in, an SSD on the way and probably this.
I picked one up on Friday from FrozenCPU (they are local to me) and have to say I really like the unit. I am only running a single loop right now with just a CPU and Northbridge block and a single Swiftech MCR220 rad this week. Next week I should be adding a block for a 285GTX and moving the chipset block over to that along with a new MCR220.
I really like the way it cleaned up my system since I no longer have a pump on the bottom of the case I am going to be able to easily add the additional radiator.
Looks awesome :D
You need to add "and part time PIMP" to ur handle now :DQuote:
Originally Posted by nypunkgeek
Looks sweet!. Any installation issues?
Other than being surprised to find no instructions in the box even though all the part bags were labeled with numbers, no problems. No leaks but since I now am running the fluid suggested that is non-conductive I have a little less fear of leaks anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
The only thing kinda sad is that I should have taken a pic without it running so you can really see the insides. It really is a pretty unit. It becomes a solid color that you can't see through when it is running though since the liquid is moving like crazy. I don't think I have any air left in there are all, but it still does that.
Still, I can't wait to add a second loop to it. :)
How about a couple of pics from the backside of the unit? Maybe a couple of the inside of the case.
Eh, I will have to take some more later. This is what I have right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
The cables are a bit messy since I am getting a new video card and adding that and a second loop this week.
Nice.
I found I had a tiny bit of air in there and after I was able to bleed it out now it is much clearer while running and you can see through the unit to the pump and the other connectors. :)
Looks like Jab's order shipped TO them today (Monday). They were supposed to get them by today but people are suddenly aware of the Typhoon's so stock went faster then Primo anticipated. Just letting you know it is NOT Jab's fault.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Kind of mesmerizing inst it lol. I love when people THINK they have all the air out and ask me about all the turbulence in the rez, then they actually do get all the air out. Makes me wonder how much air was actually left in loops over the years that I THOUGHT were air free.Quote:
Originally Posted by nypunkgeek
Did you have any issues with the ghost Compression fittings? I can't quite tell from your pictures if you have the caps on the LED plugs either.
Also. About there being no instructions...that is my bad as I have not gotten around to writing them. After I do get them put together I will send you a copy in case you noticed anything I missed.
Yeah, I was disappointed Jab-Tech didn't get them today. John has been really good about emailing me back letting me know what was going on. Hopefully they will have them tomorrow so i can have it on Wednsday. I am ordering a few things from them and will need them by then if I want to be able to finish my build. I told him they could just drop the res off at my place on the way there since i am in Texas. :D
You don't bribe the UPS and FedEx folks? I've left 6 packs for them before with a thank you note. :)
I'm having a hard time getting the barbs to seal on the back. Not a real big leak but its there. Its definately the fitting and not the hose. I had it filled and running. Water was clear and I could see everything.
I'm going to look for O-rings at the hardware store tommorrow and, just in case, I have a couple of regular barbs comming.
Quote:
Originally Posted by surfhick
Did you visually inspect the O rings?
Also, your not using the spacers right? Those are only if you use the fittings in parts that do not have built in O ring recesses. The T3 does so they are not needed.
I have several T3s and the fittings and no issues
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/7...6528608765.jpg
Except the dramatic increase in lotion and tissues usage...
DAM DB...do you ever do anything but build machines?
Despite the fact you told me about them, in a previous post, I was using the washers. On my way to the hardware store, I looked at the fitting. It was then I saw that the washer won't let the O-ring seat.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
My boss calls it slippage. Felt more like a stroke moment to me.
Nah, my bad for not getting off my butt and getting some instructions written.Quote:
Originally Posted by surfhick
Slippage huh? Isn't that a sailing term? :D
Glad you got it worked out though.
For all those interested, Jab-Tech is taking orders for the ones that come in tomorrow. Get them while you can because I bet they go quickly once the word is out. I know 2 are already gone. :D
They're already listed as in stock on their site, or am I missing something?
:) I can't wait to test mine :YIPPIE:Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Hi guys,
I am just wondering what whether this res would be a good option for my loop - ie. whether I should run my CPU blocks in parallel or series.
Option 1 - Parallel
Code:__________
| |
v ^
Typhoon iii |
| | |
CPU0 CPU1 ^
| | |
Y-fitting |
\ / ^
\ / |
| |
v ^
| |
Radiator |
| |
----->-----^
Option 2 - Series
I prefer the parallel approach because I don't like the idea of CPU1 getting fed warm water from CPU0, but it is a little messier due to having to use the Y fitting... I've also been told that series and parallel have been tested by people here in 2CPU setups and series worked better.Code:__________
| |
v ^
/ |
Radiator |
/ ^
/ |
| |
CPU0-->--CPU1 ^
| |
v |
| ^
/ |
/ Pump
| |
v ^
| |
Reservoir |
| |
----->-----^
I'm sure I've probably asked this question before, but I specifically wanted to see how the T3 changes things. It is certainly a much tidier way to go parallel.
Thoughts?
EDIT: Forgot to mention, the CPU blocks are Swiftech MCW60s (Apogee 1U)
They were not due in until today, so he was listing them early. Since this will more than likely be a popular item they will probably go quick once people realize he has them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
@ karbonkid
I don't think that parallel & series one (the first one), would be really taking advantage of extra flow the T3 is capable of providing.. since after the Y it's reduced to the size on just one tubing.
To take advantage, you'd have to use the 2 outlest, and 2 inlets. So maybe putting both cpu blocks on loop 1 and putting just the rad on loop 2 would be more efficient. That's what i've gathered from reading this thread.
I'm someone will chime in if i'm wrong :p:
Oh wow - that's an awesome idea. Will that work? I just forked out £50 for this thing and if it can do that, it's well worth it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Diverge
EDIT:
The exact parts I'm using are -
D4 Pump
2 Swiftech MCW60s
1 XSPC RS360 rad
Depends on your blocks and rad's restriction....what are you planning on using?
Edit above, only realised after I posted. Also, any opinions on feeding CPU1 warm water straight from CPU0? Detrimental?Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
Considering all three components are such low restriction and none of them are flowrate dependent, just do a single loop in series. :shrug:
Any arrangement of those three parts being split over 2 loops will result in detrimental performance to part of the system (it won't be noticeable, but there will be no gain with going to a dual subloop config).
Vapor - In your repsonse to karbonkid above, I'm curious to get your input on my setup and if a semi-dual loop approach would be better:
- XSPC 360 rad & Magicool 1080 rad
- dual Koolance 295 GPU blocks
- Koolance NB/SB chipset block
- Koolance VReg block
- Enzotech Luna Rev.A CPU block
Thanks! :)
The difference in temperature of the water going into CPU0 and coming out again is very minimal. Probably something around 0.3 celcius at max. The order of your components in a seriel loop doesn't really matter much.Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
About doing two loops. Even though none of the 3 components are very restrictive the radiator still benefits from higher flow rates. Unless you could max out your pumps flowrate with the seriel loop i'd think you would get an (tiny) improvement by splitting it up to two loops using the T3. If i understand the principles of the T3 that should give you more flowrate through each loops than you had in the one seriel loop. Since your blocks aren't very flow dependant it would only make a difference in the radiator loop, where you'd have more water going through and therefore more cooling.
I'm guessing it would be a very tiny gain though. Probably much better for people with more flow dependant loops.
Also if you are going with two loops you have to make sure both loops are equaliy restrictive, or close atleast.
Edit: If you do try the dual loop where you have a "radiator-only" loop, i'd very much like to hear how it goes. If it is a viable way to go i'm pretty sure i'll do that too.
Without seeing your actual plumbing runs my unofficial opinion is that you will in fact see a slight improvement with the rad on it's own loop because your running the triple and rads by their very nature do like lots of flow. Vapor is correct that the pair of low restriction blocks would not benefit much by splitting the loops. That's in a best case scenario where running both cpu blocks on one loop gives you the shortest and cleanest plumbing run, which it most likely will.Quote:
Originally Posted by troelsm
One thing I think some are missing is that the water in the T3 reservoir is cycled almost 16 times a minute and that there is a great deal of intermix happening. Vapor alluded to that when he mentioned how the entire loop or loops will equalize or hit equilibrium.
One other point I think people are suddenly starting to hit on is the fact that the T3 just flat out offers you a lot of options you didn't have before. Because it makes filling and draining your system so easy there is no reason you can't try several different combination. I think the unofficial slogan for T3 ought to be "Tube is cheap. Go for it."
This is a hobby and hobbies are about fun.
Well put. The fact is I wouldn't even have options like these without the T3, so whichever ends up working better, it's still going to be down to the T3 itself. Can't wait for the postman to arrive tomorrow :yepp:. Thanks for designing such a great product :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
What is the best way to run a loop?
There are no instructions and I am running resrvoir to CPU block and then rad and back to reservoir.
If I look at the back of the T3, where are the best places to put my barbs for one inlet and 1 outlet?
Thanks.
Hopefully I will get a chance to play with mine soon (should be here today). I am going to put my CPU block on loop A with my TFC 360 rad, and I will put my videocard, chipset block, and a dual 120 rad on the second loop. I will let you know how it works out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barso
The 2 inlets closest to the pump should look different from the outter 2. If im correct there was a extra chamber that pushed the water into the pump with force. So the 2 closest to the pump would be the inlets.
I haven't gotten mine yet, but if I remember correctly then this should be right ^^
Other way round - outlets closest to the pumpQuote:
Originally Posted by damunk
It was the other way around indeed :DQuote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/foru...8&postcount=31
I used teh holes in the front as outlets :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester
I am going to get to the directions this weekend. VERY sorry I have let that slide...just not a fun project and I am swamped getting everyone ready for QuakeCon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barso
Here is an explanation of the ports:
http://geno.boxgods.com/t3_ports.jpg
Ports A and B are OUTLETS.
Ports C and D are INLETS.
For a single loop configuration you can pick either A or B as your outlet and either C or D for your inlet. Any combination is fine.
For Dual loops use A and B as your OUTLETS and C and D as your INLETS.
In some cases you may want to run 2 lines in and one line out to suit your configuration. Either out port (A or B) is fine.
Hope that clears things up a bit.
Funny DB.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
You CAN actually use those two ports on the front as an additional pair of inlets btw.
There are times when that could be handy.
This is the easiest way to fill a loop ever I should add. crazy easyQuote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
How do I mount the reservoir in the front of the coolermaster cosmos s?
The drive slots are in the way and stop the reservoir being mounted.
Was wondering when this one would come to light.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barso
Basically you need to cut the little tabs off the case which isn't ideal but is doable though i think it should have been in the design of the T3 to have a groove, front to back like the XSPC res :shrug:
Where do the LED's go? I do not see a hole for them or am I just missing something?
Thanks
I just flattened mine. I only had to do the front ones as the rear ones clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barso
The LEDs go into plastic hole plugs. I didn't see any other place to mount them.
Sadly I can't think of everything :(Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester
If I had added them it would have made other users complain about the additional costs (more machining for all the extra draft etc) or the loss of volume internally etc.
Use the included LED plug cap to tighten the plug, slide the LED into the hole on the back of the plug, flip the cap and slide the wire into the groove and thread it on to the plug. The LED plugs are tool free in that their cap acts as a wrench AND as the holder to keep the LED in place. Also, if you accidentally over tighten a plug and you can't get a good enough grip on the knurled cap wrench, the slot in it will accept a slotted screw driver just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
A case modder to the rescue WOOT!Quote:
Originally Posted by surfhick
Ehhh, it only has four G 1/4" fitting holes in the back, if I use two for LED's, doesn't that defeat the purpose of dual loops? Again, I must be missing something, so if you have a pic handy that would be great.
Thanks.
you are right about that. I will probably use an LED strip to light it up (attach it with magical modder pixie dust).Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
What about the 2 on the front? :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Also, mine has a white stripe around it joining the two parts, I didn't see it in the PICS on Primochill's website. It kinda kills the look, luckily it will be hidden in the case, but still.
Man am I dissapointed :mad:
compare the pics above to the actual product. Primochill fail :yepp:
The ugly white stripe kills product. Is this a bait and switch or what?
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...l/DSC00939.jpg
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...l/DSC00940.jpg
Can you peel the strip off? Seems strange that they would post pictures of a very nice looking piece then sell something totally different to customers. I would be rather upset if I recieved one in that condition.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bei Fei
Nope it is some hard plastic bonding material. I am not the only one with this type of garbage.
The original process bonded the two halves together using the ledge/lip built into the part but there were bubbles visible from the front, like how glasses can make eyes look bigger. They switched to a process that put a crystal clear band on but people complained about not being able to use a fluid with Ethylene Glycol.
I told them people would hate that band if it were straw colored lol. To be fair, the one you have looks much thicker then normal and the protective paper on the acrylic mount adds some color. When filled it is not quite so noticeable, and of course is invisible when installed.