Thanks for all the info guys.. I will be doing some testing this weekend on my BFG OC to see what stock vgpu and vmem are and seeing if i cant grab an extra few mhz from this.....
:up:
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Thanks for all the info guys.. I will be doing some testing this weekend on my BFG OC to see what stock vgpu and vmem are and seeing if i cant grab an extra few mhz from this.....
:up:
im gonna play around with the 26.6k later todayQuote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
1/2/3/4/11: 1.22-23vcore
good luck :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by 10acjed
edit.. i found the vgpu 1.18 load, and 1.09 idle with it downclocked...
thanks
It appears that on my BFG OC version pins 1/3/11 are already bridged as well. So Id like to see what I get by bridging 2/4. are there any other combo's that may help?
Also, does anyone know a chain store for a conductive pen? Im getting low and I dont feel like waiting if i run out.... thanks again
Radio shack has conductive ink pens.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10acjed
The answer to your other question is in the previous posts. :up:
Forgive me for sounding like a noob here.Quote:
Originally Posted by dengyong
Can this be done with a pencil for easy reversal? Also how are you all seeing voltage?
Edit: Sorry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
No pencil, use conductive ink for easy reversal.Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterMagoo
For voltage check post 90.
When measuring the voltage where are you pointing the negative on the multi?
@ psu molex black wire plug
Thanks.
How long should I let the ink dry before installing/running a bench?
Until you're sure it will stay where you put it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterMagoo
If you are going to use ink, measure the resistance between the 2 contacts you bridge with ink - when the ink is wet the resistance is high, and it falls as it dries. Once it's close to a dead short (the value you get on the DMM when you touch the 2 probes together) you can install & power on.
Also make sure you don't bridge anything you are not supposed to, just the 2 small contacts at each VID position.
Ok,
I am getting 1.25v on gpu with 1/2/3/4/5/11 and 2.15v on the mem. Time to play.
so going 1/2/3/4/5/11 loads @ 1.25vgpu?
i was wondering this.
thank you
Yep.
801/1730/1452 on my vanilla...
I have had so many bsod the past week trying to bang out benches at 4.6ghz that I think I borked my OS install. So I am also having driver issues...going to reformat and see where I get.
I'm confused do you bridge vid pin 2 and 4 or 1/2/3/4/5/11? Can someone clear this up for me? Also does this work on all GTX 285s or just certain brands?
1/3/11 are already bridged from factory on a standard card.
On an EVGA SSC card, 1/2/3/11 are already bridged from factory.
When we talk about bridging 2/4/5 we are meaning bridge them in addition to the ones already bridged from the factory.
If you have a standard card (1/3/11 already bridged):
Standard vgpu is ~1.16v
Bridging (2) will give ~1.23 vgpu load.
Bridging (2) & (4) will give ~1.24 vgpu load.
Bridging (2), (4) & (5) will give ~1.25 vgpu load.
If you have an EVGA SSC card (1/2/3/11 already bridged):
Standard vgpu is ~1.23v
Bridging (4) will give ~1.24 vgpu load.
Bridging (4) & (5) will give ~1.25 vgpu load.
If the card is reference design (which I think they all are but I can't be certain) then it should work fine.
Thank you for the very excellent answer; it is exactly what I was looking for.Quote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
i got the ssc @ 1.29vcore load
i might be onto smtg
yeh!! 1.33vcore @ load
pencil mod at it :)
Woah nice, what did you do?
I had no time to play over last couple of days been really busy.
yes Napalm, please share the secret... 1.33 sounds real appealing....
good job BTW :up:
still testing guys :)
got it up to 1.36vcore @ load
and i think i have it figured out :D
let me find some pix and ill explain in a bit..
Awesome man, I have no patience to see it. I need more power. With 1.22v I get 810/1764/1458 benchable , but I need more :DQuote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
i took another look at the datasheet and its right there.. i looked too hard and didnt see it!
- the lower the resistance at this resistor the higher the vcore allowed
- vid 1/2/3/4/5/11 bridged.. pencil this resistor to bring resistance down to around 350ohm
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/1671/20104163iv0.jpg
1.33vcore @ load
or
- this point increases vcore according to the resistor in above pic ^
- vid 1/2/3/4/5/11 bridged.. solder a 150ohm resistor to ground from this red point
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3606/54589411ae7.jpg
1.33vcore @ load
pencil + 150ohm resistor = 1.36vcore @ load
cryptik if you want to confirm .. and look at the vdiff pin @ datasheet ;)
So sorry I totally missed this.Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
From the data sheet the only 2 100K resistors appear to be implemented in the phase switching frequency and soft start ramp rate circuits. There are other components that use an R/C circuit for adjustment though. However in a circuit, the 100K you measure is obviously the cumulative resistance of all the components in that loop so the value of the given resistor is bound to be different, and not 100K individually.
I will look over the circuit diagram/notes some more and try to elucidate some sense from it.
However from your last couple of posts it looks like you are onto something for sure.
Of course, that resistor corresponds to the vcore mod solder point on the back of the card and Pin 17 (vdiff), which is connected to the FB loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
As you skew the vdiff reading the output voltage changes accordingly regardless of VID selected, as long as the VID is valid.
Excellent.
EDIT - 150 ohm is very low, whats the resistance from the mod point (on back of card in second pick) to ground? (I can measure if you want but I'll have to pull my card out).
Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
Am I correct in reading the resistance by checking the 2 points we are shading? IE: red top green bottom and lower resistance to 350?
also what would the original be?
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6461/20104163iv0in8.jpg
Thanks for this one... Great work :up:
NapalmV5, can I use silver conductive paint instead of pencil?
Thank's for the mod!
^^ :eek: Great job, mates. :up:
Let me know what results you guys get. With just 1/2/3/4/5/11 I can run 775/1700/1500 through vantage, havent tried more on the shader or mem. And I can run 775/1756/1533 through my other fav bench. 750/1700/1500 furmark stable 1920x1200 16X MSAA for 20 minutes 87C max.
Are these voltage not getting a little too high for stock cooling? Is 1.33V not a little too high, after all the vanilla voltage is 1.16v?
no.Quote:
Originally Posted by tranceaddict
turn up the fanspeed or go aftermarket :)
Absolutely not, the purpose of using pencil is to lower the resistance somewhat, to 300 - 400Ohms. If you use conductive paint, you will create a dead short (0 Ohms resistance) and this will almost certainly result in a dead card.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickless
That said, it is always better to use a hard mod than pencil.
Thank's, now I'm going to make this mod 1/2/3/4/5/11 and pencil.Quote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
EDIT: Hm, I've I bridged 1/2/3/4/5/11 with silver conductive paint and pencil the resistor with 2B, but now I have 1.21v :(. Before with 2/4/ it was 1.22v. Maybe I have to add more pencil or ...
guys this resistor you have to really pencil on well
why ive indicated 300-400ohm resistance so before you try the mod measure so youre close to 400ohm or below
guys, for now just try the resistor/pencil mod
this is a fresh mod just hours ago.. other things/ways to try im not done
but the vdiff mod works and brings performance but you gotta bring cooling i dont think air can handle this kinda performance
its been a long night havent slept at all due to other matters im just too tired to continue.. after im fresh later today will continue
This is outstanding. Phenomenal work being done here!
I'm putting my 2 SSCs on water soon, these mods should be go perfect with my cooling.
currently my SSCs can do 735/16XX/2800
I have great cards...all they need is more push...and more cooling and I'm in business.
My vanilla's dont break 60C when gaming/benching at 1.25v 100%fan. Furmark is the only thing that heats them up into the 80's.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3061/94449032bo5.jpg
cryptik would you confirm for me D21 thru D14 as being VID7 thru VID0 ?
if so.. D19/D15/D14 being occupied.. would it suggest a reference voltage of 1.39375 ?
if so.. moving D19 -> D18/D15/D14.. would that make it a reference voltage of 1.49375 ?
or do i need more sleep.. thanks :)
:clap: no rest for the wicked lolQuote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
Well those two patterns do match the patterns from the VR11 8bit table referring to the two voltages you mentioned. However I'm not sure what 'reference' voltage you refer to is.Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
In theory just altering the vdiff signal at pin 17 should be sufficient to raise/lower vgpu as necessary.
If you are thinking there is a maximum limit of 1.39375v imposed on the vgpu byt the diode arrangement, the only real way to test that semi-safely is put the card on water using a full cover block (covering mosfets as well) or even DICE if you have a pot and insulation and ramping the vgpu up.
thats the reference voltage @ vid table
on the 285 amp i removed the 770ohm vdiff resistor and just soldered the pointsQuote:
(DAC) generates a reference
voltage based on the state of logic signals at pins VID7
through VID0. The DAC decodes the 8-bit logic signal (VID)
into one of the discrete voltages shown in Table 3.
1/2/3/4/11/12 bridged.. it bootsup @ 1.35vcore and load would be 1.40-1.41 but the screen just goes blank
so indeed i believe the max vcore is 1.39375 thanks to d19/d15/d14
vdiff is still limited by the reference voltage
yes this vid mod would be for better cooling than air
Yeah I was thinking you meant the max voltage set by those VID pins. Its definitely worth a try. I wish I had 2 cards, one for experimentation and one to use full time.
im gonna do that if/when @ vapochill :)
well guys heres the guide to 1.36vcore (1.39375 max)
i bridged 1/2/3/4/11/12 according to the diodes (d19/d15/d14) on the front of the card
step #1
- simple way to increase vcore from 1.15v reference
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/998/49555888ru5.jpg
1.26vcore @ load
step #2
- the lower the resistance at this resistor the higher the vcore allowed
- pencil this resistor to bring resistance down to around 350ohm
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/1671/20104163iv0.jpg
1.29-1.33vcore @ load
step #3
- this point increases vcore according to the resistor in above pic ^
- solder a 150ohm resistor to ground from this red point
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9937/38313600hn4.jpg
1.36vcore @ load
2.20vmem @ load
unfortuanately no matter how low the resistance gets @ step #2
all is limited to the reference voltage: 1.39375
past this voltage further mods are needed
im sure this still confuses some so if you guys want to revise the mods feel free
So connecting 12 gives an extra 0.01V over just 1/2/3/4/11?
yes
i shouldve seen it before but last night i finally had an illumination and i straighten out everything :)
1/2/3/4/11/12 is more the "correct" way of bridging..
1/2 @ D14 (VID0)
3/4 @ D15 (VID1)
11/12 @ D19 (VID5)
or even more "correct" (0-15)
0/1 @ D14 (VID0)
2/3 @ D15 (VID1)
10/11 @ D19 (VID5)
:)
all vcore mods up till post #144 have been alpha/beta mods
Crysis will drive temps into the 80's. These cards will run 85c at 100% fan speed during heavy load. It doesn't matter which model or brand of card you have, they all do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterMagoo
However I pencil the resistor with 2B, I can't reduce the resistance more than 600 ohm (stock was ~750ohm acc.to my DMM), I'm still on 1.22v, but this is better then 1.15v.
Sounds like you have high ambients or a bad HSF mount. I replaced the stock thermal paste with MX-2 and with the fan on auto I get 85*C load in Crysis with the fan at ~72% and that's with 1.23/1.24v load. With the fan at 80 - 85% it holds temps in Crysis to ~78*C.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blkout
I'm quite certain Napalm used pencil as an experiment to identify the target resistor. Pencil mods are uncontrollable and not advisable. There is a hard mod you can do as shown, the solder point is as easy as it gets. Then you have total control.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickless
If you absolutely must use a pencil instead, try one with a higher graphite content.
Nope not for me. Only thing to bring those temps is furmark, I just got done with 3 hours of warhead at 4x AA 1920x1200 with SLI.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blkout
not me either, i run 16850x1050 with 4xAA and never see temps higher than 70-72. OCCT fullscreen will get me to 85c in 5 min, but if no game will do that, why bother...Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterMagoo
I have a question. Is running 1.26v on stock clocks bad? I need to break in my new cards for SLI but already did the mod. I run my fans at 100% all the time, will the voltage hurt anything? I am guessing not since people are running 1.3 on 280s with the voltage tuner.
So is anyone seeing any gains from this?
So far I am running at 1.28 vGpu, up from my normal 1.18. But I have only gained 25MHz on my core, I went from 725 to 756, the next step higher and it crashes..
shader clock is the same as before, any higher and games crash as well..
I havent started testing memory clock yet.....
^^ Needs better cooling, else it won't improve clocks.
I am seeing 73c when games crash... Thats about 3-5c higher than I was with 1.18v at stable OC...Quote:
Originally Posted by SAE
would that little of an increase cause instability? I would think these cards could handle temps in the 70's, I had it up to 85c in OCCT GPU test with no crashes or errors at current stable clocks...
Cooling is def. not the issue. Some cards just dont like high clocks. One of my cards hits 775/1740/1525 and one barely gets over evga FTW speeds. I have only had the second for a day so I hope it clocks better after a bit of a break in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickless
yeh dont use #2 HB for ex. no goodQuote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
i used just a #2 and went over the resistor good.. no mercy
i got it as low as 320ohm
400-500ohm noticeable vcore increase
updated step #3
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9937/38313600hn4.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
so i moved diode @ d19 to d18 on the amp 285.. now vcore remains the same 1.24v at bootup/2D/3D.. load i didnt get to try cause as soon as it os boots after couple of seconds screen goes blank.. im gonna try higher resistance @ vdiff and see if that stabilizesQuote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/2186/71228432tg0.jpg
D19/D18 both trace to Q44
D15/D14 both trace to Q42
the rest are vacant
They really cut back on these cards, the 280's are built so much better. Also the 280's have such a superior voltage controller, this cheap intersil and only 4 vid choices is laughable.
I'm a little concerned about what the PWM can take, there only 2 mosfets per phase, it reminds me of the 8800GT with only 2 phases with 3 fets per phase. There is a space for another fet in each phase but seems like they didnt use it for cost cutting reasons.
I wonder how much current they can take before they blow?
I sure hope they can take what I am putting through them! Maybe this is another reason for no voltage tuner, not just the vreg themselves.
NapalmV5, would you recommend this mod for my card ?Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
Quote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
exactly .. hence the 1.26vcore limitQuote:
Originally Posted by MisterMagoo
just @ vacant C561-4 (1st post)Quote:
Originally Posted by dengyong
4 x 4V-10V 1500uF electrolytic caps
or
4 x 4V-10V 330uf/470uf/680uf/1000uf tantalum caps
i guarantee higher core clock :up:
Thank you, could you recommend an online store for parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
i mainly use digikey.. sometimes newark.. theres arrownac many others
@ digikey
enter capacitor @ search
click tantalum caps
apply 4mOhm esr filter - lowest esr tantalum they got
and you get the kemet 680uf 4v cap
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...=399-4817-1-ND
13.25$ a pop
they also got low esr electrolytic caps @ lower $
1200uf http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=493-3065-ND
you can even go with this 2.5v 1500uf http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=493-3061-ND
you can go with surface mount caps but you gotta find the right size no more than 6mm which is too small for proper cap
as for the 8 x 100uf 16v 24mohm esr chemicon stock caps..
im going for this 9mohm esr 470uf 16v nichicon
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=493-3019-ND
and 10mohm esr 470uf 16v chemicon
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=565-3234-ND
ill try both
+ http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=493-3061-ND @ C561-4
Ordered, thanks :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
already? :eek:
i got the same 680uf kemet on the amp 285 :)
was able to play grid ~5min @ 800/1800/1485 on the stock cooler
if your gonna water your gonna do better than that
you can reuse the caps on smtg else after youre done with 285.. worthy investment :up:
update
1/2/3/4/11/12 bridged
1.30vcore @ load
anyone want to confirm ?
I have 1.24v load with 1/2/3/4/11/12, I have been running that config since yesterday. I get the exact same vgpu with 1/2/3/4/11 bridged, adding vid 12 made no difference.
thanks Cryptik
yes still am.. i cleaned off the vdiff resistor
though i recapped the back C561-4 to 680uf 4v kemet and front to 8x1000uf 25v bg nx
why am i @ 1.30vcore load.. hmm
No and no. 37c ambient in an enclosed case is just fine, at least that's according to Everest, it stays 21c in my house most of the time so everything is just fine. My stock paste has also been replaced with MX-2 and it helped idle temps by 2-3c but didn't do anything for load temps using Crysis.Quote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
UPDATE: I believe I see how you guys are keeping your temps down. I've been using the auto fan setting which gradually raises fan speed as needed, but in doing so, it will allow the GPU to reach 85c before the fan ramps up to 100%. Usually Crysis will drive my temps to 85c within a few minutes at the auto fan setting and then it just maintains 83-85c with the fan running near 100%. I just played Crysis for about 10 minutes with the fan set manually to 85% and temps never went above 72c. I guess once temps really start to climb up around 80-85c, it's hard for the fan to bring them back down below 80c, so if you turn the fan up manually, the temps just never reach those levels.
change has definitely occurred.. vdiff resistor back @ 770ohm
and im getting 1.30vcore @ load just by the bridges alone
still trying to figure out where how why im getting .04v higher
btw this is on the ssc 285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blkout
One more update:
Since changing my fan speed manually to 100%, my vanilla eVGA 285 reached new stable clock speeds.
Best clock speeds with fan set to auto is 729c/1620s/1458m.
Best clock speeds with fan set to 100% is 756c/1656s/1512m.
My silver conductive pen should be here Tuesday and I think I might go ahead and order a FC block today seeing that reduced temps seem to have more affect than I would have thought on my clock speeds. I certainly can't live with the stock fan set to anything above 65% for everyday use.
same here, it changes once I did the pencil mod, and even tho i erased it it continued to add .02 - .04 to my voltage...Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
I was at 1.18 load when i started before any modding, now i am at 1.20 load...
All other ink mods were completely removed, so just by shading the resistor you will see an increase in vGpu.
Too bad I cant get any OC gains tho...
@ 10acjed
you gotta keep 1/2/3/4/11/12 bridged
i want to make it as clear as i can to everyone about vcore increase on the 285
step #1 vid bridge/s
step #2 lower vdiff resistance
step #3 lower resistance @ the point on the back of the card where ive indicated @ guide
step #3 could be avoided if enough low resistance @ vdiff resistor but thats a maybe and how high the vcore you want to go
theres no one bullet kills all on the 285 :( not yet anyways
maybe the experts/professionals will bring that
That's strange, if its all back to stock (except caps) it should be back to the old voltages. Are your DMM batteries ok?Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
EDIT just saw 10acjed's post - sure all the pencil residue is gone? Did you clean resistor with acetone or isopropyl?
When left on auto, my fan never goes over 72% to keep the gpu at ~85*C, at 1.24 vgpu.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blkout
The fans do get pretty loud thats why I leave mine on auto. Water should allow it to clock higher, the GT2XX series is very responsive to temperature.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
Yea, I'm fine with my vanilla 285, it runs faster than a stock FTW edition with no mods at all. With water and some minor volt mods it should run even better. It was worth saving the $40-50 over the top of the line overclocked parts to get the same or better results and now that money saved can be applied to a GPU waterblock.
thats what i used no residue left.. i removed the mod so i can tell what diff the kemet 680uf makes on the ssc and so far performance is looking goodQuote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
dmm battery still good but im gonna change it just to make sure
FYI Guys...the GTX 285 FTW bios is available now over at mvktech :D
Sweet I will probably flash mine. FTW for $330 :)
thanks ^ bito
i flashed my ssc to ftw and lost ~18 fps @ 181.20
might be diff story @ 181.22/182.05
Ill let you know how it goes, I flashed both mine just reinstalling drivers now.
That doesn't make sense if it's just a clock speed change. Certainly they didn't change anything else in the BIOS, or did they?Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
FTW is a much better bios for me. My second 285 would barely overclock compared to the first. Now they are both running 760/1700/1490. I am sure my first which is an amazing card would run 800's on the core with the volt mod and the FTW bios.
Nope. Nothing changed in the BIOS just better binning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blkout
Only thing different with the FTW is better binning....same factory volt mod...and the BIOS probably just reflects better "stock" clocks.
Most of us in this thread could probably flash to the FTW BIOS with no issues (like BSOD or artifacting) We all seem to have some pretty solid SSC cards.
Well, I figured as much, but his results didn't reflect that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangeblast
Yea...they were a bit strange...
On a side note. Do you think we can get a summary of this thread?
it would be cool to say a 1 - XX step guide on how to fully mod the 285s...
also, noobish question here, when doing the volt mods and bridging those pin outs...do you need to do the CAP mods too? or are they completely independent of eachother?
Is water needed for the volt mods or can we just use the stock cooling?
post #144 is more or less step by step to get to 1.36 vGpu - 2.20 vMemQuote:
Originally Posted by Orangeblast
Did you compare the memory timing table between the two BIOSes? They may have loosened the timings to allow a better memory overclock in the FTW BIOS and as result running the same memory speed as original BIOS you may have lower bandwidth/higher latency.Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
I had taken them all off because I had no clock gains so I am holding off til I get better cooling. I saw no need in putting extra voltage to it if its running fine now.
I probably did not clean the resistor enough because even with everything removed I am getting a reading that is .02 higher than when I started.
Ok, I've found 6B pencil, also 21/2=HB. I'll try both of them, I hope one of these pencils will help this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
EDIT: Between I've flashed my card with FTW BIOS, but nothing changed with FW 182.05.
EDIT2: I've managed to reduce the resistance with 21/2=HB pencil to 330ohm, but it gives me only 1.24v (before only with 1/2/3/4/11/12 it was 1.21v). I'll clear everything and make the hall mod again, maybe some bridges are not connected very well :shrug:
6B should work very well. It contains a good amount of graphite. :D
i finally found the identity of the 330uf caps on the 285
they aint no tantalum but panasonic ecg sp-cap/polymer aluminum 2.5v caps.. duh! :shakes:
6-9mohm esr/but also low 3-3.5arms ripple current
im gonna recap the 6mohm esr 470uf 6.3v kemet tantalum (C84-7) to:
kemet 680uf 4v 4mohm esr/high 8.2arms ripple current
i wish i could find the 1000uf 2.5v 4mohm esr kemet.. before i order the 680uf ill hunt these down
this is gonna surpass stock performance and bring extra mhz :)
We want to see photos for sure! :up:
^ alright :)
heres a pic of what i mean by performance.. cinebench opengl bench is very sensitive to this
285 amp @ 4 x 680uf kemet @ C561-4.. normally @ 8xxx score
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6120/285xk5.jpg
285 ssc currently @ 112xx score with the 680uf kemet @ C561-4
normally 8xxx score
man, i give you credit for being able to do this. i wish i could recap a GPU - my hands shake tooo much and my eye sight is VERY bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by NapalmV5
Please link caps you used and *begs like child* please post pics of what you re-capped.
i have a trusted person in mind for re-capping. :)
What kind of temperatures are you seeing with the voltage mods?
I am at about 70C in warhead a couple hours.