790i ULTRA SLI + E8500 + kingpin F1 EE + Corsair Dominators + LN2 = 5.7GHz benchmarks

some notes from last night's testing at high FSB for 3D stability



first of all............if i get a 32M SuperPi run i should be 3D stable as well ...very good indication

actually using AM3 is probably quickest way to find out :)

now the settings....didn't take me long to get to this but there is a fair bit of trial and error and with subsequent testing i realised these settings are sweet spots atm

here are the volts set in bios which gave me the highest stable FSB i could benchmark with (595MHz)

Under System Voltages Section:

CPU Core >> set value required for MHz OC
CPU FSB >> 1.45v
Memory >> set to value required for MHz OC (1.9-2v is plenty for 2GHz speeds and decent timings)
Nforce SPP (NB) >> 1.45v (VERY important) going lower or higher reduced stability > higher probably due to possible better cooling required (will have to test that but NB is generally pretty cool :shrug:
Nforce MCP (SB) >> 1.75v (PUT A FAN ON SB)

LEAVE GTL REF at AUTO >> system will determine the best settings (-80 for me at high FSB) >> for stability at ultra high FSB you can also try dropping it to -90 to -110 :) otherwise leave it at auto


Note in RAM settings there are two settings called P1 and P2 which require you to increase volts manually or you will corrupt your windows as the chipset latencies are set very tight particularly when both P1 & P2 are enabled. For high FSB testing i could not boot even at 575MHz FSB with both P1 and P2 enabled (probably would work with better cooling on NB and possibly some more volts). I had P2 enabled for my 3DMARK runs which i was very happy with :)

RAM Settings >> i normally set main timings 8-7-6-20 1T and rest are left at auto which i tune through memset

done some more testing on my single stage last night

my first ever voltmod as well
did vcore mod on 8800GT card i was benching on and went from 700MHz core to 800MHz core :up:


http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/8872/74093771jp6.jpghttp://img340.imageshack.us/img340/8671/90700767bf0.jpghttp://img148.imageshack.us/img148/9914/59670254mz7.jpghttp://img147.imageshack.us/img147/7089/81707078pc9.jpghttp://img512.imageshack.us/img512/8424/73705103xy7.jpghttp://img252.imageshack.us/img252/3996/86150137jz8.jpghttp://img260.imageshack.us/img260/7053/85144981kw1.jpghttp://img174.imageshack.us/img174/554/50497566aj9.jpg

Got some decent scores

299K Aquamark3 :D (4th fastest run on HWBOT)

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8...8500880yd7.png

3DMARK05 28337
seems poor >> need some help with this bench i think heheh

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/2...5ghze85ts5.png


3DMARK03 48744
seems poor >> need some help with this bench i think too heheh
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9...hze8500ro3.png


3DMARK01 92012 (2nd fastest on HWBOT)
didn't do any extra CL runs ... was in a rush :)
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8...hze8500lp1.png

Nice results;) now crank the CPU clock to 5400Mhz:D

need some dry ice for those clocks :p:

Your in watercooling right?

single stage phase change

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dinos22

done some more testing on my single stage last night

my first ever voltmod as well
did vcore mod on 8800GT card i was benching on and went from 700MHz core to 800MHz core :up:

---

Very cool Dino! How easy was the mod? And, what was the original voltage and what did you raise it to? Got a link to a "how to" so easy a chimp can do it?

how to get hold of that pot?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Yellowbeard

Very cool Dino! How easy was the mod? And, what was the original voltage and what did you raise it to? Got a link to a "how to" so easy a chimp can do it?

---

hehe Mike
i'm a volt mod chimp too lol
i just thought :banana::banana::banana::banana: it if i don't try a mod now i will always keep asking ppl to do it for me
how lame is that :D

basically all you need is a low wattage soldering iron with a fine tip (like pencil type tips)

you need a steady hand (or do what i do and have both elbows on the desk while soldering :D

in terms of knowing what to solder to what basically all the guys that create solder mod threads tell you where so for example i searched XS for 8800GT mods and went to largon's and T_M's thread and looked at the pics

Largon's thread was good for actual mods spots and Tim's thread was good to see which wire goes where (for us dumbasses hahah)

make sure you measure resistance before and after mod too (VERY IMPORTANT) normally if you get the correct VR it will be identical as they are wound back all the way >> worth checking hehehe


default volts for 8800GT are 1.06v idle / 1.111v load

i pushed it to 1.277v load with 800MHz core (core speed affects volts your GPU core gets >> at stock speed my load volts are 1.25/1.26 somewhere

i will need better cooling to push this core more seriously

actually i might strap Corsair Nautilus to it
afterall that's what it's there for :yepp: (great allrounders those coolers)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dduckquack

how to get hold of that pot?

---

if you live in australia you can buy them online from www.jaycar.com.au

I drink WAY too much coffee for steady hands. I'll look over the guide first and see if it is something I need to try.

one other thing

i found that soldering to read points and ground points was very difficult and i had to keep the soldering iron on those points for a little while to warm it up but still wasn't getting a lot of luck (problem with that is that you can burn some traces on PCB as well if it gets too hot)

i donno if it's my iron or what but it's more difficult than i thought :confused:
would be good to get some tips from more experienced guys why that is :shrug:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dinos22

one other thing

i found that soldering to read points and ground points was very difficult and i had to keep the soldering iron on those points for a little while to warm it up but still wasn't getting a lot of luck (problem with that is that you can burn some traces on PCB as well if it gets too hot)

i donno if it's my iron or what but it's more difficult than i thought :confused:
would be good to get some tips from more experienced guys why that is :shrug:

---

You can heat up the ground spot for 2-3 seconds, get some soldering material on the tip of your iron, and touch the ground spot, the solder will "sit" on the ground spot.
Then take your tinned cable and hold it steadily over the ground spot, touch it with your iron tip for 1-1.5s... you're done ;)

It's pretty much like everything in this life...the more you practice, the better you get at it.

yeah true that man

corrupted my last windows install from 3 different hard drives last night :rolleyes:
790i doesn't like it when you push it too hard RAM wise

nvidia sent me some crucial sticks that have EPP2.0 so i thought i'd quickly test them and after setting max vdimm and 2GHz 7-6-5-15 1T the windows instantly got corrupted :rolleyes:
the sticks were able to boot at 2225MHz 8-7-7-20 1T(1M SuperPi stable only though) and can't even get near 2GHz 7-6-5 :confused:

i bet new corsair RAM will smoke 'em easy when they eventually get the right ICs to bin them agressively at 2133 CAS8 that some website reported on recently :eek:

they'll probably have to use 2.1v i guess

great going dinos :D.... now let see some LN2 on cpu and gpu :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dinos22

would be good to get some tips from more experienced guys why that is :shrug:

---

biggest tip i can provide is to use FLUX. joints will flow 100X better and with the lead free solder that most of these cards/boards/etc... are built with these days, it really, really helps.

a 15w soldering iron is the best bet to start out with as you will have less chance of lifting a pad or burning a trace as opposed to a 30w iron or higher. but with a 15W iron and a conical tip, joints like the 6-pin/8-pin connectors of video cards are sometimes too big and take a lot of heat to flow.

as someone else said...practice. get some flux, a 15w iron w/conical tip, and an old piece of dead electronics. rip the circuit board out and have at it. start by just seeing how much heat it takes to flow (liquify the solder) a small capacitor joint and then a bigger one. see how much heat it takes to damage it. then work your way up to soldering wires to capacitor joints and then move on to IC legs. once you get the rhythm of heating up a joint to flow, adding the wire, and pulling the iron out letting the joint cure...it is all downhill from there :up:

oh yeah...nice to see you made the jump to the soldering side of the fence Dinos...congrats.

googles FLUX
results are a bit :confused:
my iron is some 18W Japanese one
guy at electronics store told me it's decent lol (so i bit the bullet heheh)

you can buy flux in paste or liquid form. i am use to liquid flux as that is what we use at work (and where i happen to get mine from :) ) but can be a bit of hassle to clean as it is liquid and a small drop can spread over a large area making clean up a bit of a hassle.

paste on the other hand would in theory be a bit easier to clean up afterwards.

what flux does is it cleans the joint and allows the solder to make a better joint. when you heat up solder without flux, it can be kind of pasty, especially lead free. with flux, heating up a joint makes the solder flow better.

you see in your image of the joint here...

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/9914/59670254mz7.jpg

the solder is all grainy, chunky, and just looks 'bad' (no offence at all, just trying to describe it, you did a damn fine job for a first timer...if it works it is perfect ;) )

compare that joint to this one here of mine...

http://3oh6.com/forum_posted/0802/hi...olt_mods-2.jpg

notice how smooth and shiny it is? there is more to it than just flux but it plays a BIG role in making a joint that nice. here is a joint (the capacitor) of mine where i didn't use flux...look familiar to yours?

http://3oh6.com/forum_posted/0802/hi...olt_mods-3.jpg

same grainy, 'rough' texture to it. a little more heat and it would be smoother but still not as smooth and shiny as the other one above.

as for your iron, sounds perfect for starting out. heck, i still use a cheapy 15w iron from radio shack at home for almost all of my mods. just keep your tip tinned (give it a heavy coat of solder after each use before turning it off) and you should be good to go. tinning the tip prevents the actual tip from oxidizing when not in use. when it oxidizes, it doesn't transfer heat as well. even while you are modding, if your not soldering, tin the tip. then when you go to use the iron again, wipe the excess solder off the tip with a wet sponge. the tip will then have a shiny thin coat of solder on it and will transfer heat very well. the key to soldering is quick heat transfer so you don't have to heat the joint for long.

WOOOOOOOW

i love your work

i have to look into this

now i know what those stains are on the back of the mobos i've seen in the past LOL

what camera are you using. you're a pro eek :up:

i'm glad you used that example as that point isn't reading properly due to an extremely poor attempt at soldering hahahah :D
[edit] lol just looked at your website >> cheater >> you are a photographer too hahahah
no wonder the pics are so great heh

thanks mate

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dinos22

what camera are you using. you're a pro eek :up:

---

it's not about the camera, it's the lens that matters :up:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dinos22

[edit] lol just looked at your website >> cheater >> you are a photographer too hahahah
no wonder the pics are so great heh

---

not cheating...just relying on my resources :D

there's one good thing of not using flux. if your card/mobo are dead, then you can just put it out with less trace :D

I'm using Fluitin ( solder with flux core )...it's good, and leaves no trace at all ;)

flux shouldn't leave trace, you can just clean it off with isopropyl alcohol. as for solder with flux core, yes, that is good for initial soldering of the solder to your wire or to something else, but once it is heated up, it is gone.

so when re-flowing a joint, all the flux in the core is gone. anytime your doing volt mods, you are re-flowing a joint...or at least the easy way is too ;)

A friend of mine who solder rollbar for rally cars teached me something and the cause of the "roughly" aspect of the soldering is just because it's cold; if you warm up the component, and then you put some stain on it, you just have to put the wire, and touch the stain, that will flow on the wire.
If you are fast and the stain stay hot the solder point will become shiny and smooth, even without the fluxe :)

That is how my friend explained to me, but i always do that, and the results are very good :up:

you are right

an old friend of mine i no longer talk to used to come over and show me how to do this stuff

shiny=good
the way i do it=bad :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dinos22

you are right

an old friend of mine i no longer talk to used to come over and show me how to do this stuff

shiny=good
the one i do it=bad :D

---

Well it's not bad at all, but the wire could detach very easily

Anyway if this is your first try you did an excellent job, and most important, you didn't kill nothing :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Insane_Tech

Well it's not bad at all, but the wire could detach very easily

Anyway if this is your first try you did an excellent job, and most important, you didn't kill nothing :D

---

GREAT SUCCESS!!!

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/5...fa4cf04ob5.jpg

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

That's the best thing, and i'm sure that with just a little of experience you'll do excellent jobs ;) :up:

By the way, congratulations for the other scores, very very nice :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Insane_Tech

A friend of mine who solder rollbar for rally cars teached me something and the cause of the "roughly" aspect of the soldering is just because it's cold; if you warm up the component, and then you put some stain on it, you just have to put the wire, and touch the stain, that will flow on the wire.
If you are fast and the stain stay hot the solder point will become shiny and smooth, even without the fluxe :)

That is how my friend explained to me, but i always do that, and the results are very good :up:

---

soldering a rollbar? perhaps you mean welding. either way, yes, soldering without flux is easily accomplished with a good iron and proper temperature but with lead free solder that all these cards are built with and a cheapy 15w~20w iron, it is much harder to get a good joint because lead free needs so much more heat to flow. the flux really helps.

also, what do you mean by 'stain'?

stain >> have a look at my solder point
has that dirty look
my friend also refers to it as stained/dirty look hehe

I looked everywhere in my BIOS and couldn't find the P1 or P2 setting.

Was this in a Beta Bios?

lol what's with bold letters :p:

P1 and P2 are in nvidia beta bios P03 dated on 14th March

evga boards don't take this bios i have so you'll have to be patient :) and wait for a bios update

WOW those are crazy numbers. when people cant get above 4.5ghz stable, would u blame it on the mobo, cooling, or vcore? if u were to just water cool it with everything else the same, how high do u think u would get instead?

Did you noticed cold boot?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vagos

Did you noticed cold boot?

---

no cold boot

only issue i had was with overtightening the board and i did experience overall cold bug around -60/-70 loaded on core

but once i loosened the mount -115C was ok

the thing is i was able to bench this CPU at -130C on P5B DLX so i am not 100% happy with this as that will cost me in OC

but maybe i have to play some more with mounting to improve it more lol :D

uploaded youtube video from latest bench session heh

also has that new bios P03R2 with all changes made

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wt4JTGHXjlk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dinos22

uploaded youtube video from latest bench session heh

also has that new bios P03R2 with all changes made

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wt4JTGHXjlk

---

.....get your a55 out of that trench...MOVE! MOVE! MOVE!

This was one of the best live songs and overall shows I have ever seen. Metallica, And Justice For All tour 1991. Good pick for music Dino :up:

hehehe showing your age there Mike

yeah man i liked Metallica even though Lars is a gayholio ....always hated that little :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: :D

just uploaded a better quality video

Nvidia 790i + Dominator bench-prep OC Video

dino :)

Anyone any good suggestions for quick testing of the on board water blocks before I installed mobo fully?

Cheers in advance

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by optical10

Anyone any good suggestions for quick testing of the on board water blocks before I installed mobo fully?

Cheers in advance

---

Too small signature dont you think?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PPInDaHouse

Too small signature dont you think?

---

LOL - My keyboard likes to express itself with large fonts especially:)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by optical10

LOL - My keyboard likes to express itself with large fonts especially:)

---

That's better, I spanked it & it reduced it's font's in submissions, who's the daddy :clap:

Fit Thermalright 120 extreme in eVga 790i Ultra?

Thanks so much!

(a belated) n1 dinos! thanks for the in depth p1/p2 analysis - just started playing with these too. Big Change!! Great board, any thoughts of extreme cooling/ volt mod to spp for even higher fsb??? :sonic: :eek: I kinda am looking in this direction :D :D :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by manyga

Fit Thermalright 120 extreme in eVga 790i Ultra?

Thanks so much!

---

not without trimming it :( you can finagle it if you are persistent.

hey guys

there are a couple of capacitors on the back of the mobo as spotted by a few ppl and alerted by 3oh6

make sure you have enough soft cushioning to not crush them

i am running bios 0507 as my original that came with board was 0402.

I am using 4x1gb sticks of corsair XMS3 DHX 1333 PARTNO. twin3x2048-1333c9dhx (2X1 gb Packs)

i have the q6600 go/slacr with tuniq tower

and an 8800 xfx ultra extreme (2nd on the way for sli)

I am using the following:

At the minute it's set to what it calls 1350MHz, but I think everyone else would call 337.5, multiplier is 9X.

Vcore @ 1.38V

I have tried all the way up to 1.5 and still no joy.

I have also gone up to 1.6 for NB and SB core and still nothing even had a play with CPU PLL @ 1.6 and CPU VTT @ 1.4 and still nothing.

I even managed at some point to get into windows with 3.5mhz but that was after i changed my memory timings to T2 instead of T1 and my memory is suppose to be 9-9-9-24 v1.5 ?

So am i right that it may be the memory? i thought corsair XMS were good or are they crap.

Really frustrated as i could easily get 3.4 - 3.6 on the abit iproo35 with the same q6600 which i lapped and on the striker II getting temps of 47 on load in prime95 when running at 3.0mhz.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated

run your tRFC very high and see if it changes anything

Hi, thx for your reply but where is the tRFC?

I only have the following :-

tCL, tRCD, tRP, tRAS, tRRD, tRC, tWR, tWTR, tFAW, tREF??

I urgently await your reply :confused:

in windows
memset

sorry mate whats that i m only using bios at the moment for the settings what is memset in windows? and how you get to it?

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=92190

:up: :up:

without sounding thick :( what will this tell me ?

memset is software that allows modification of RAM timings from within windows.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by franco_cov

without sounding thick :( what will this tell me ?

---

just load the application and increase tRFC and see what happens

ok will do that shortly as i have prime95 running at moment seeing if i can achieve a stable 3.0mhz before playing with it as since i had board a few days ago i cant get a stable overclock at all :(

i cant use that program i have the 790i chipset and keeps giving me the msg wrong chipset

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by franco_cov

i cant use that program i have the 790i chipset and keeps giving me the msg wrong chipset

---

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=837

this version should work...can't remember.

whats classed as setting tRFC high as its on 60 at the moment before touching it ?

and if i save it so thtat it boots up with new settings what happens if it hangs can i reset it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by franco_cov

i cant use that program i have the 790i chipset and keeps giving me the msg wrong chipset

---

Are you sure you've downloaded the latest version ? ( v3.5 Beta ) [ link's on the very last page ]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by franco_cov

whats classed as setting tRFC high as its on 60 at the moment before touching it ?

---

60 is very tight mate

loosen it to 70/80/90/100 and see if it affects stability

it's interesting the bios is setting it so tight heh

and if i save it so thtat it boots up with new settings what happens if it hangs can i reset it ?

unfortunately i don't think you can actually have it autoload in windows

i asked nvidia to put tRFC in bios to make it easier to tweak high density RAM or 4xslot configs

well i just applied and saved it to 80 and rebootedmy windows and when i loaded up memtest it remembered 80 ? so does that mean that windows has booted up with 80 ? and if so do i now try an overclock to see if its more stable or what just a little bit confused :S

still reboots if i increase from 3.0ghz :(

How about you start a new thread in the Intel section?

lol i just modded the second card and watercooling it as well

wow guys

i am going to be able to bench at 900MHz core :shocked: 2000MHz shader (probably a bit more on this one) and 1GHz RAM (still not modded)

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/664...orewatekv5.png

cooled by Corsair Nautilus 500 + DTEK GPU WB

:up:

it's a slow CPU but you can still see the power of this OC in nature ;)

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/1...orewatetg0.png

Nice setup dude I go the same board and I can run my cpu at 4.7 like nothing... this board is seriously impressive without water cooling the NB or MCP

holy thread digger batman
you've posted what....a gazillion times today...you trying to get access to for sale section or something :p:

So i take it you like this board Dinos, been trying to decide what board to buy, im tired of p45 boards. Nice clocks, i think you just sold me on the 790i, how does it compare to x48 chipset ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by neo mike

So i take it you like this board Dinos, been trying to decide what board to buy, im tired of p45 boards. Nice clocks, i think you just sold me on the 790i, how does it compare to x48 chipset ?

---

well Intel has X58 out now
its the :banana::banana::banana::banana: :)

Yeah x58 is very nice, but i have a e8500 thats needs some whipping, not ready to go i7 just yet.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dinos22

holy thread digger batman
you've posted what....a gazillion times today...you trying to get access to for sale section or something :p:

---

Maybe........ I have this exact setup minus the phase ln2 so I actaully did read this Thread and watched the youtube video