Official Water Cooling Thread of the Stock Maximus SE ROG NB Club:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cuke2u

EDIT: Decided to go for it in the end, seemed to make more sense to do now then have to dis-assemble it all again...

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Yep, that's what I meant, it will be a big hassle to unmount everything few months later, hope it will give you the head room you miss now

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Originally Posted by TheSamurai

i'm a noob too with watercooling and whatnot... it was definately worth it. i went with Artic Silver MX-2

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Arctic Cooling MX-2, not same brand as Arctic Silver
;)
Just looking too mouch on the details :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Malik

I'm using 8/10 tubing, and fittings - like this LINK


Thanks Dude ;)

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It will also fit 1/2-3/4 more adapted for LPDC (12.7-19)

sorry, typo... Artic COOLING MX-2 like jonny pointed out! :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Malik

Conclusion:

There is no problem to remove asus cooling - of course when you use for example a hair dryer :) Swiftech mcw30 fit ok.

Big thanks for Pete :)

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LOL nice one dude, the MC30's look nice. I might have to getsome if EK doesnt hurry up soon. I might sell my bord now as it's a working naked X38. If i get a new one then hair dryer for a min i guess so i the IHS stays. Thanks for PM'ing me to show me. Nice one dude

Pete

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pete

LOL nice one dude, the MC30's look nice. I might have to getsome if EK doesnt hurry up soon. I might sell my bord now as it's a working naked X38. If i get a new one then hair dryer for a min i guess so i the IHS stays. Thanks for PM'ing me to show me. Nice one dude

Pete

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I don't see your NB temperatures on Talonman list. I was curious to see how hot is your naked X38. With C2D, naked CPUs yieded a temperature gain of up to 5-10°C. It could be interesting if these X38 get IHS less so easy

@Talonman:
As the thread is getting longer, you should post the temperatures results in the first post for new comers to be easy to consult

i agree with jonny, just keep updating the first post... it will make it easier on you and everybody else!! :)

Sounds good boy's, I'm on board with that!!

Done........ :up:

Stolen from the other thread: ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leithfield

Some data re WCing the Fusion Block here:
http://www.virtual-hideout.net/revie...e/index6.shtml
"And what about the Fusion chipset water block integrated in to the heat pipes? While the temperatures were typically around 42 C idle and 52 C load, water cooling didn't bring the temperatures down quite as far as hoped. The temps dropped about 6 C, but this didn't afford any extra performance in terms of overclocking. This isn't really a big surprise given the design of the integrated Fusion. Every water block to cross the test bench in the past year have all had a matrix machined in to the block's copper internal base. The Fusion has a flat internal surface which means there isn't any kind of turbulence or have an increase of surface area that would draw more heat for the water to carry away. In all truth, this isn't so much a bad thing since it really means that the system is optimally tuned and really could have done without the extra block."

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I think also lets us know that we may not need an Xtreme cooling solution, but still be able to OC as much as our individual CPU's will allow?

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Originally Posted by Nate P.

So the stock ASUS block is acually good?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wiggy McShades

from what im doing so far it is actually decent. i've heard the change from 1/2 to 3/8 tubing has a very low effect on performance, but that is the only downside so far. im doing the fusion block and an apogee gtx on a pa120.3 powered by a ddc2 with an alpha cool modded top so im not too worried about restriction. from what i can tell the block is safe to use and it is decent performance wise if you don't want to risk ruining your board because it is VERY firmly attached. i suggest anyone removing it to be EXTREMELY careful i originally planned to use an mcw30 but i gave up after 20 minutes of trying to remove it safely. i saw one person tear the whole chip set off removing it and then just gave up.

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Another good ROG report!

MIPS-COMPUTER blocks, price: 159 EUR

http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/3...musfulldb4.jpg

EK Waterblock answer:

1. EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 - Acetal, price 32.95EUR

http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/772/nbsbasus3fq5.jpg

2. EK-NB S-MAX Acetal, price 30.95EUR

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/9609/nbmaxsxs1.jpg

Malik, I know your not running the ROG stock cooling any more, but post up the data I need to make your entry on the list.

I want to know what the loaded NB temp is now, using the blocks in your rig. :)

I will list it and note that this is a non stock cooling entry....

We can use it as a good reference.

Holy Crap! I removed my whole contraption like Malik, slapped my MCW30 on the NB and load NB temps are as I sit here 25C. Before with the fuzion block NOT HOOKED UP load NB temps were anywhere from 41-52C.

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Originally Posted by nikhsub1

Holy Crap! I removed my whole contraption like Malik, slapped my MCW30 on the NB and load NB temps are as I sit here 25C. Before with the fuzion block NOT HOOKED UP load NB temps were anywhere from 41-52C.

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pics?

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Originally Posted by nikhsub1

Holy Crap! I removed my whole contraption like Malik, slapped my MCW30 on the NB and load NB temps are as I sit here 25C. Before with the fuzion block NOT HOOKED UP load NB temps were anywhere from 41-52C.

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try it under load with occt beta and the slider all the way to ram...

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Originally Posted by TheSamurai

try it under load with occt beta and the slider all the way to ram...

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My computer is always under load running SETI... but I ran the OCCT with the slider to RAM for about 10 mins (damn that makes the comp slow lol), NB temps don't budge off 25C :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nikhsub1

Holy Crap! I removed my whole contraption like Malik, slapped my MCW30 on the NB and load NB temps are as I sit here 25C. Before with the fuzion block NOT HOOKED UP load NB temps were anywhere from 41-52C.

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Damn nice!

I did a test with OCCT on CPU only, my system lasted only 5 mins. This is bad isnt it? Temps only got up avg45 on CPU. I don't get it.

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Originally Posted by nikhsub1

My computer is always under load running SETI... but I ran the OCCT with the slider to RAM for about 10 mins (damn that makes the comp slow lol), NB temps don't budge off 25C :D

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Gasp.... 25C!! loaded!! wow

Origional post listing updated.

Thanks for the info.

opps Crapp, what is your current NB voltage set to.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nikhsub1

My computer is always under load running SETI... but I ran the OCCT with the slider to RAM for about 10 mins (damn that makes the comp slow lol), NB temps don't budge off 25C :D

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nice, very nice... making me think i need one. :D

I know the feeling. A Loaded NB at 25C has rocked my stock ROG cooling world... ;)

I am hoping Malik reports his loaded NB temps, so we have conformation that the loaded 25C neighborhood, is where the high end block boys are hanging out.

I have my stock ROG remount project on hold until I complete my sole searching to decide my next move.

I have a feeling I might be jumping totally out of the stock ROG club now...

To TheSamurai: If you jump in too, dont keep your part numbers a secret. I would probably order the same gear as you. ;)

It would be nice if can find all our parts from 1 store.

I would need:
1 NB block and backplate.
1 SB block and backplate.
2 MOSFET blocks and backplates.
1 CPU backplate.
Any spacers if backplates require them.

Totoal cost for leaving the stock ROG cooling behind = $???.??
Still need to work on that! ;)

Curse that 25C!!!
I said at the beginning of this thread, I only seek the truth.
If the truth turnes out to be 25C vs 49C, then we have some searous food for thought.

Weird, the Asus-3 block Malik shows and EK lists for X38 has its pins different to the S/B block on the board,
The board's S/B block has its pins like EK Asus-1 or Asus-2.

But when you go to Eddy's site and look he has two different pics of the new Asus-3 and the second install pic has the pins the right way round.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/sulk/EKx38.jpg

Guess its wait and see time?

Hehe, right now my NB temps are down to 21C but it is quite chilly in my office with the windows open. My NB voltage is 1.52v, FSB is 400 x 9 and water cooling the SB is a total waste of money, flow and effort IMO. My SB temp with a passive aluminum sink borrowed from my P5W DH is keeping it at 28C, ive never seen it higher than 35C. I do like how the ROC can come off yet leave the sinks on the mosfets at the top.... IMHO the stock ROC is garbage marketing gimmick.

See now people keep saying this. I believe it is a crapshoot. I must have gotten lucky and mine was glued down correctly or something. I tightened the 4 screws before I mounted the board in my case. I ran on air for a bit and saw temps up into the high 40's under load. Then I just simply plumbed the Fusion block into my loop and now the load temp never breaks 36°C and that's is when my ambient is 26°C due to the heat being on in the apartment. Right now, at folding load, with a 24°C ambient at 1.45v, my NB is at 29°C. I can't complain about the stock cooling TBH. It works well for me.

I think your Intel Core2Duo E6850 is helping with your NB temp some?

Mine will have to deal with a Q6600 Go.

But I do believe in the crapshoot variable too.

I am sure under a well designed test using all stock cooling with no remount, the MOBO's temps would vary quite a bit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nikhsub1

Hehe, right now my NB temps are down to 21C but it is quite chilly in my office with the windows open. My NB voltage is 1.52v, FSB is 400 x 9 and water cooling the SB is a total waste of money, flow and effort IMO. My SB temp with a passive aluminum sink borrowed from my P5W DH is keeping it at 28C, ive never seen it higher than 35C. I do like how the ROC can come off yet leave the sinks on the mosfets at the top.... IMHO the stock ROC is garbage marketing gimmick.

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Thanks for the info buddy!! :)

I think.... ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jedda

Weird, the Asus-3 block Malik shows and EK lists for X38 has its pins different to the S/B block on the board,
The board's S/B block has its pins like EK Asus-1 or Asus-2.

But when you go to Eddy's site and look he has two different pics of the new Asus-3 and the second install pic has the pins the right way round.

Guess its wait and see time?

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Thanks for bringing this up.

I want to order the correct NB block for sure.... :up:

SB is different due to the caps around the SB, NB is differnt as the 4 holers are closer togther.

All the Asus X38 EK blocks are on the way to me as we speak, big thanks to EK for that!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Malik

MIPS-COMPUTER blocks, price: 159 EUR
EK Waterblock answer:

1. EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 - Acetal, price 32.95EUR
2. EK-NB S-MAX Acetal, price 30.95EUR

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In all fairness for a complete EK setup you need to add 2x
EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a@ 32.95EUR a piece to be equal to the MIPS-set in wc-blocks. Total of 129.80EUR, but still nicer and my pick anyday.

I just ordered from EK:

(1) EK-NB S-MAX Acetal
- Fittings 1/2" ID

(2) 1/2" ID fitting G1/4

(1) backplate for my CPU.

I am going to cool the NB with an EK block now, and use our stock backplate for the NB.

I think I will just go with a heat sink on the SB.

What about mosfets ??

Heat sink and a fan I think... :)

Too rich for me right now... I am starting to get into the money reserved for my GPU.

If EK wants to throw a set in my order with backplates for free, I will be glad to beta test them here in America, and post a report!! :p:

The air might be different over here in Ohio, and mabey EK is looking for more data? Heck, I'll take the blemished ones if their EK blocks!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nikhsub1

Hehe, right now my NB temps are down to 21C but it is quite chilly in my office with the windows open. My NB voltage is 1.52v, FSB is 400 x 9 and water cooling the SB is a total waste of money, flow and effort IMO. My SB temp with a passive aluminum sink borrowed from my P5W DH is keeping it at 28C, ive never seen it higher than 35C. I do like how the ROC can come off yet leave the sinks on the mosfets at the top.... IMHO the stock ROC is garbage marketing gimmick.

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Could you give some screenshot with this temp to confirm ?

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Originally Posted by Pete

SB is different due to the caps around the SB, NB is differnt as the 4 holers are closer togther.

All the Asus X38 EK blocks are on the way to me as we speak, big thanks to EK for that!

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I waiting too for EK blocks ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nikhsub1

My computer is always under load running SETI... but I ran the OCCT with the slider to RAM for about 10 mins (damn that makes the comp slow lol), NB temps don't budge off 25C :D

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10mn???
Suere not enough to stress your water cooling loop and your NB
Under OCCT last beta in RAM mode, you'll need about 30mn at leats to get your NB heat maxed out. Depending on the capacity of your waterloop, it can take up to 2h for the water temperature to reach equilibrium

Finally, if your window is open, in winter, the ambiant temperature and the chip temperature in a watercooling system have an exponential relation. That is, a 5°C delta in your ambiant can have a 10-15°C impact on your watercooled chip depending if you're on the cold side or hot side of the exponential curve.

The problem with all the results people give, is that most people don't know exactly what they do.

Using Prime95/CSMT/F@H or OCCT RAM, won't give same load on your NB, so when you say load, should be mentioned what proggy. OCCT last beta in RAM mode is by far the best test

Also, people should test at a 20-25°C ambiant to report values. Testing with an opened window, is really not a reference

Here for you some example to illustrate it

I use here Prime95 small FFT for maximum CPU only stress (NB and RAM stay cool at this test)
Ambiant Air 24°C:
http://img488.imageshack.us/img488/2...zvcore1ef0.jpg


Now, Ambiant Air 18°C
http://img488.imageshack.us/img488/7...zvcore1cg4.jpg


CPU Temp is 51°C for 24°C ambiant air . At 18°C ambiant air (digital thermometre) the CPU is at 35°C. So quiet a 2.5x ratio (delta CPU = 2.5 x delta ambiant air).

This is on the cold side of the exponential curve. In summer, above 25°C, the ration will increase and can reach a 3x to 4x around the 30°C ambiant

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Talonman

I just ordered from EK:

(1) EK-NB S-MAX Acetal
- Fittings 1/2" ID

(2) 1/2" ID fitting G1/4

(1) backplate for my CPU.

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My opinion, but the MCW30 is by far one of the best WB for cooling the NB. It is based on the Apogee GT design, so a real winner

The best would be really a 1-2h OCCT last beta in RAM mode, and give your NB and ambiant air temperature.

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Originally Posted by safan80

pics?

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Some pics with the MCW30 plumbed in...

http://www.anonforums.com/builds/beast3/nb/fullnb.jpg

http://www.anonforums.com/builds/beast3/nb/fullnb2.jpg

http://www.anonforums.com/builds/beast3/nb/nbclose.jpg

Love your routing the blue pump wire over your blue RAM sticks. Very cool!

Sweet... Thanks for the picts.

I guess we will have to see how the EK-NB S-MAX Acetal block stans up against the MCW30..... ;)

My guess is both are winners.

BEFORE = STOCK WITH AIR
Q6600 G0, 3.9 GHz
NBv = 1.54
NB Temp = 48*C

AFTER = RESEATED W/ MX-2 AND WATER ADDED
Q6600 G0, 3.9 GHz
NBv = 1.54
NB Temp = 34*C

before i was using the standard blend of OCCT, after i was using OCCT Beta with RAM setting.

Origional post updated with your data! ;)

Thanks Samurai... Nice drop from the remount!

Looks like our 'Stock' SE cooling, is going to be super SE soon...

The Maximus SE just got a block change and a new name.

ASUS MAXIMUS EXTREME

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131235

They are getting more expensive too. ;)

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Originally Posted by jonny_ftm

For people looking to cool their mosfets on air, I'll advice these ones

http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/m...duct_hr_09.htm

They are passive, but you can manage to fit (with some home made stickers) a 60mm silent fan depending on the CPU cooler you have (clearance)

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I took your advice Jonny!!
I ordered me 2 up, to see how they work out for me...
So now ...

For cooling my Mosfet's:
(1) Part # cpu-tri-40 - Thermalright HR-09S Mosfet Cooler - Slant Type
(1) Part # cpu-tri-41 - Thermalright HR-09U Mosfet Cooler - Upright Type

For cooling my NB:
(1) EK-NB S-MAX Acetal block

For cooling my SB:
(1) vid-22 Microcool Chipsink Southbridge Passive Heatsink (Might work on the SB, but might be too tall)
-or-
(1) vid-84 Enzotech Forged Copper Northbridge Low-Profile Heatsink (CNB-S1L) (This is the one that takes moding to make fit. Sweet low profile and copper a +)

Not sure which one I will end up using?

For cooling my CPU:
D-TEK FuZion CPU Waterblock

And a WaterKegIII Xtreme!!

I also ordered 5 more feet of Tygon 1/2". I think may need some to install my EK NB block.

I hope I am about done with my cooling stage with the Maximus!! ;)

I guess I will officialy be ousted from the Stock ROG club for sure... :p:

'Operation Removal' will have to be done now!! Gasp!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Talonman

Origional post updated with your data! ;)

Thanks Samurai... Nice drop from the remount!

Looks like our 'Stock' SE cooling, is going to be super SE soon...

The Maximus SE just got a block change and a new name.

ASUS MAXIMUS EXTREME

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131235

They are getting more expensive too. ;)

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Yup, thats the sweety that supports DDR3... Wish I had the money, but in time THIS will the the motherboard to get I think.

Just ordered can't wait.

1 x EK-NB S-MAX
- Fittings: 1/2" ID
1 x EK-NB/SB ASUS 3
- Fittings: 1/2" ID
2 x EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a (X38)
- Fittings: 1/2" ID

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ElEctric_EyE

Yup, thats the sweety that supports DDR3... Wish I had the money, but in time THIS will the the motherboard to get I think.

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i think so too. but for now, ddr2 is where it's at. ddr3 is waaaaay to expensive. i have a friend that used to buy the latest and greatest when it came out and he's been screwed so much, money wise, that he's not doing that anymore. actually... he's getting the same gear that i do now hahaha.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Talonman

For cooling my SB:
(1) vid-22 Microcool Chipsink Southbridge Passive Heatsink (Might work on the SB, but might be too tall)
-or-
(1) vid-84 Enzotech Forged Copper Northbridge Low-Profile Heatsink (CNB-S1L) (This is the one that takes moding to make fit. Sweet low profile and copper a +)

Not sure which one I will end up using?

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Why not a HR05 SLI/IFX like i put a order for last weekend?
Will suit nicely with the HR09, only a hard work to find a 80x15mm fan to put on it. Thinking of a nice 80x25mm instead.
I´m not to big of a fan of passive heatsinks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Talonman

I took your advice Jonny!!
I ordered me 2 up, to see how they work out for me...
So now ...

For cooling my Mosfet's:
(1) Part # cpu-tri-40 - Thermalright HR-09S Mosfet Cooler - Slant Type
(1) Part # cpu-tri-41 - Thermalright HR-09U Mosfet Cooler - Upright Type

For cooling my NB:
(1) EK-NB S-MAX Acetal block

For cooling my SB:
(1) vid-22 Microcool Chipsink Southbridge Passive Heatsink (Might work on the SB, but might be too tall)
-or-
(1) vid-84 Enzotech Forged Copper Northbridge Low-Profile Heatsink (CNB-S1L) (This is the one that takes moding to make fit. Sweet low profile and copper a +)

Not sure which one I will end up using?

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Great choice, but remember, any passive cooling needs very very good airflow, it is critical, otherwise, they'll end to be unefficient too. Watercooling the mosfets, in my opinion is great, but definetely needs a two loop setup. With only one loop, the restriction will be too much and your CPU cooling will suffer. As, cooling the mosefets is an extreme OC issue, the few degrees the CPU temperature will suffer from restricting the loop could impact your CPU OC performance.

The price/performance ratio of the 2xHR-09 is by far better than watercooling the mosfets even without adding a second loop. In any case, they'll perform better than the crappy stock ASUS cooler (great for medium OC, but not enough for high OC on a quadcore)

As for the SB, the problem is that if you remove the stock NB cooler, you loose your SB stock heatsink, so yes, you need another heatsink. As I suggested before, and said by E.R above, the HR-05 IFX(/SLI) is a supreme option. For only the SB, I'll go passive, no fans needed. It easily fits a 80x25 mm fan too if really needed

I can't advice about the two heatsinks you mentioned, but for suere, they will be less performant than the HR-05 IFX or IFX/SLI versions

Quote:

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Originally Posted by E.R

Why not a HR05 SLI/IFX like i put a order for last weekend?
Will suit nicely with the HR09, only a hard work to find a 80x15mm fan to put on it. Thinking of a nice 80x25mm instead.
I´m not to big of a fan of passive heatsinks.

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Looks like a good unit. :up:

I didn't want one quite that big of a sink for the SB. I hope the low amount of heat it does create, will be handeled ok by my smaller sink too. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jonny_ftm

Great choice, but remember, any passive cooling needs very very good airflow, it is critical, otherwise, they'll end to be unefficient too. Watercooling the mosfets, in my opinion is great, but definetely needs a two loop setup. With only one loop, the restriction will be too much and your CPU cooling will suffer. As, cooling the mosefets is an extreme OC issue, the few degrees the CPU temperature will suffer from restricting the loop could impact your CPU OC performance.

The price/performance ratio of the 2xHR-09 is by far better than watercooling the mosfets even without adding a second loop. In any case, they'll perform better than the crappy stock ASUS cooler (great for medium OC, but not enough for high OC on a quadcore)

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Thanks for the post...

I will be OC'ing a Q6600. I hope my mosfet temp won't hold me back too much!! :)

But as you said, In any case, they'll perform better than the crappy stock ASUS cooler so I will have to see how it works out for me..

I also was thinking like you that I could overload my 1 loop, and I didn't want my CPU to suffer higher temps. I will let air do some of the work for me...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Talonman

Looks like a good unit. :up:

I didn't want one quite that big of a sink for the SB. I hope the low amount of heat it does create, will be handeled ok by my smaller sink too. :)

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Yep, after all it looks too big for only the SB. But, if the price is not a problem (take care to space also) I'd go HR-05 as you can recycle it later for more demanding chips, like a NB in a future setup...

Hi, does any of you guys use the add on fan from Asus with your WC? I've mine fitted however if its not needed I'll dispense with it...
Chris

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cuke2u

Hi, does any of you guys use the add on fan from Asus with your WC? I've mine fitted however if its not needed I'll dispense with it...
Chris

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If your running the stock Maximus SE on water, ASUS intended for you to use it. I will be switching over to some different heat sinks, and believe it will no longer fit in my system.

I think were probably fine both ways....

Just got the board and I have a few questions.

I'm running NB at 1.39V at 39* load and my 'MB' is running at 38*. Is MB the ambient? Because that seems extremely high for my case with a 2x120 rad pulling in and 2 80's pulling out. I do have water on the north-bridge.

Also, I can't really justify taking the heatsink off of my new $300 board, so I thought about ways to improve whats there, and thought that every day while it's at load and hot, if I just turn the NB screws a quarter turn, it'll push the trash glue out a little at a time. Could this be possible?

I should be getting mine today. One quick question though: does anyone know what the V2 revisions are?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dude_500

Just got the board and I have a few questions.

I can't really justify taking the heatsink off of my new $300 board, so I thought about ways to improve whats there, and thought that every day while it's at load and hot, if I just turn the NB screws a quarter turn, it'll push the trash glue out a little at a time. Could this be possible?

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That glue looks pritty thick. I would be afraid that the glue wouldn't care, and you could strip your screws, or warp your mobo if you overtighten a block to it.

I would say +1 for creative thinking, but probably won't work. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dude_500

my 'MB' is running at 38*. Is MB the ambient?

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Nope. It's an inboard reading usually midway between the cpu socket and RAM slots.

Got mine. Hopefully get it up and running tonight!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcoffey

I'll get the NB under water today and report back along with some pics of my new HSPC Tech Station bench from Petra's.

By the way, after working with a Tech Station I may never go back to a full covered case again. Man what a dream these things are to work on when testing, just incredible.

andyc

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Yeah, if you're any kind of tinkerer they really give you open easy access.
There's a lot to be said for getting your hardware up and running on one while you mod a final case too.
Only downside is kidz n pets.

I decided that I would take off my northbridge to reseat it today, and it was totally worth it. I got 33* load instead of my old 41*.

When I poped off the whole thing, the southbridge stayed down and the pipe came out of it so I didn't get a look at the southbridge TIM. I'm sure it's the same as north, but is it worth taking it off to redo? From what I've read the southbridge doesn't really matter, especially because I'm not doing Crossfire.

I'll post pics/specs once I get up to my max overclock. I think it'll go quite high considering I'm running 3177mhz on my Q6600 G0 with stock voltage (1.28 load after droop).

Yes, do keep us posted... :up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dude_500

When I poped off the whole thing, the southbridge stayed down and the pipe came out of it so I didn't get a look at the southbridge TIM.

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Worth putting TIM on the block/heat-pipe join. Some miss doing that.

Before, my Delta between cpu and cores was 7 degrees which is quite normal. Now, it's -5 degree delta which is fundamentally impossible as far as I know. (53 CPU, 48 core 0). This changed after I updated 401 to 901 BIOS. Anyone having this bug?

I personally think it is useless
Try to monitor temps by plugging them than unplugging them, if you see a notable change...

They also are known to be too loud (small fans with high rpm)

WOW

I just added the block to my loop and what a difference
it was NOT remounted
I initially left it out of my loop but was running a BTX style case so I don't think the heatpipes were working as efficiently as they could

temps were 54-58 idle/ 62-65 load
now its 37 idle / 43 load max

1.63v NB

loaded with OCCT ram slider all the way to the right
just my d-tek fuzion and this block on a pa120.3

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/1136/img0567td4.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Aldy402

WOW

I just added the block to my loop and what a difference
it was NOT remounted
I initially left it out of my loop but was running a BTX style case so I don't think the heatpipes were working as efficiently as they could

temps were 54-58 idle/ 62-65 load
now its 37 idle / 43 load max

1.63v NB

loaded with OCCT ram slider all the way to the right
just my d-tek fuzion and this block on a pa120.3

---

Thanks for the post, and glad to hear your getting much better results on water. Good temps on the stock install too. :up:

Origional post updated with your data!

Will this fit the X38?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Renegade5399

Will this fit the X38?

---

It is in the Discontinued Products list
You should go with a MCW30 from swiftech

Either my board and MCW30 are seriously out of spec or this thread needs updating. For me the MCW30 is not a direct bolt on replacement for the North Bridge!!! A spacer needs to be backed out and a mounting screw :banana::banana::banana::banana:ed at least 15 degrees or one of the mounting plates on the MCW30 needs to be notched and angled out at least 1/8th inch. Those that claim it is direct bolt on replacement are wrong!!!! Be prepared for a Mickey mouse installation if you ordered one for this board!!! /me goes to EK for a proper waterblock. I won't be using the Mickey Moused MCW30. :down:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WFO

Either my board and MCW30 are seriously out of spec or this thread needs updating. For me the MCW30 is not a direct bolt on replacement for the North Bridge!!! A spacer needs to be backed out and a mounting screw :banana::banana::banana::banana:ed at least 15 degrees or one of the mounting plates on the MCW30 needs to be notched and angled out at least 1/8th inch. Those that claim it is direct bolt on replacement are wrong!!!! Be prepared for a Mickey mouse installation if you ordered one for this board!!! /me goes to EK for a proper waterblock. I won't be using the Mickey Moused MCW30. :down:

---

i used the springs + nut with my mcw30 on my Maximus, no dramas at all.

it's a tight fit but that just means there's less chance of rocking - well my NB is sitting @ 30c under load with 1.5v so i think it's doing ok :)

Below are some pics showing the removal of the N/S bridge heat sinks. With the help of cadaveca I came up with the idea of refrigerating the Maximus Formula MB (with the plastic covering)for 3 hours in order to remove the north/south bridge heat sinks. Heat didn't loosens the thermal compound found on this motherboard for me but cold temperatures did. Once the board was chilled for 3 hours the north/south bridge heat sinks popped right off without any real force. I offer this advice as a possible solution for removing bonded type of thermal compound from the north/south bridge heat sinks. Please keep in mind that applying either heat or cold or both temperatures can damage your motherboard. You try this at your own risk.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...a/8be3f661.jpg
NB.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...a/19d81b59.jpg
NB HS.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...a/cbf00ab5.jpg
SB.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...a/4658f9e0.jpg
SB HS.

Sidenote:
This method is not for everyone and you do so at your own risk.

dunno how you came up with that, but thanks! I'm not sure how I feel about putting my new mobo in the freezer, but I know I don't like the looks of that TIM.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by iadstudio

dunno how you came up with that, but thanks! I'm not sure how I feel about putting my new mobo in the freezer, but I know I don't like the looks of that TIM.

---

I first tried heating it as others posted that it worked. Well, it didn't work for me at all. So, I talked to another user who told me that his arrived and the board was very cold. He took the N/S bridge heatsink off with no problem while the board was cold. So I tried it myself and wouldn't you know, it worked. It popped right off with no fuss (unlike before). I didn't use the freezer but the fridge.

Here is the original post:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cadaveca

Benefit? YES!!!

I popped mine second board as soon as I got it..came off easily...first board would run 50c or so under 1.45v, now I can run 1.8v, and barely top 41c, using ceramique.

It actually seems now that the southbridge connection to teh NB heatsink dictates temps...but also because I am using thermal probes attached to various places I am aware that both SB and NB temps are not reported accurately in ANY instance....both heatsinks are 2c higher by thermal probe than reported temps by on-board sensors.

the heatsink assembly , after changeing paste, seem quite good...it's the stock TIM that fouls things up!

---

to each their own i guess but the hairdryer worked fine for me too.

i've done this on 2 boards now as my first had a brownout.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eastcoasthandle

It's not heat that loosens the thermal compound found on this motherboard but cold temperatures. Once the board was chilled for 3 hours the north/south bridge heat sinks popped right off without any real force. I offer this advice as a possible solution for removing difficult north/south bridge heat sinks do to the type of thermal compound used. Below are some pics I took to show what the TC, heatsinks and chipset looks like after removal.

---

Just for the beginners: condensation could kill the board, so be carefull. Also, I won't be surprised if later you can get some oxydation on valuable components with such a process. Heat is more "physiological", as the board heats up on load. But, good idea for a really recalcitrant heatsink (anyhow, a really good heating would do it in all cases, just could need time)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jonny_ftm

Just for the beginners: condensation could kill the board, so be carefull. Also, I won't be surprised if later you can get some oxydation on valuable components with such a process. Heat is more "physiological", as the board heats up on load. But, good idea for a really recalcitrant heatsink (anyhow, a really good heating would do it in all cases, just could need time)

---

No, there is nor will be any oxidation on valuable components. The results were perform to mimic outdoor results when under deliver (during a cold day). Although I wouldn't suggest this with everyone, an alternative was needed because the heat method did not work for me. The fact that it did work (under close observations, understanding of the cold air in my fridge, placement of the entire box and no condensation) made for an effective alternative for removing the N/S bridge HS that otherwise would not come off.

Also watercool my NB.With the Q6600 @ 3600 and the 8800GT in the loop,with ~23C room temp i have ~41C load with 1.47Vmch after many many hours of gaming and double Orthos.

Origional post updated with your data.

Thanks for the post.

Hi everyone, this is my first post in this thread. I have the following problem:
I've watercooled my rig (see the signature) and my CPU temp is about 60C in idle state. I reassambled the water block applying AS 5 between CPU and D-Tek, changed all the fittings and hoses to one dimension - 1/4" and still have no idea why it gets so freaking hot? Any help for an unexperienced watercooler (this is my first loop, and I haven't had any experience with watercooling before)? Will appreciate!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nowakjan2000

Hi everyone, this is my first post in this thread. I have the following problem:
I've watercooled my rig (see the signature) and my CPU temp is about 60C in idle state. I reassambled the water block applying AS 5 between CPU and D-Tek, changed all the fittings and hoses to one dimension - 1/4" and still have no idea why it gets so freaking hot? Any help for an unexperienced watercooler (this is my first loop, and I haven't had any experience with watercooling before)? Will appreciate!!

---

I think you should post it elsewhere as it has nothing to do with this topic (about NB temperature)
Also, when you make a new topic with your issue, don't forget to mention the pump, tubing size, radiator, your loop components order, your CPU stepping, and what you use to read your CPU temperature
Good luck, and try to post in the right place...

Hi, nowakjan200, and welcome to the forum, see isn't that nicer :-) As jonny said, what are you using to measure your temps with. The most common tool to use is coretemp from here http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
Chris

I was desperate, it was my first loop and I think I expected a miracle. Now my setup has change (see singnature) and I get better temps. But still not pleased fully (load temps are as follows: CPU 59-62, NB 39, SB 38, GPU 44. I use Everest to measure temps. My loop order is: Pump-Thermaltake TMG 1-CPU-NB-Black Water Ultimate-GPU-SB-Black Water Ultimate-Reservuar-Pump. I use 8/10 mm tubing.

Hi again, if you are reading just the cpu temp from everest then it is as inaccurate as the bios. You do really need to measure the core temps and they are marked core #1 to core #4. Infact I'd say your fully loaded temps aren't too bad really...
Chris

I tried Core Temp, but seems its not working with Vista x64. As for the temps - "too bad" isn't enough for me. I think the problem is with the radiators not doing ther job properly. I've already ordered Thermochill PA120.3. Hope this will give the whole loop proper cooling. By the way, what coolant would you recommend? I'm using Thermaltake UV sensitive. And also I want to watercool mosfets with EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a. But for the moment they are unvailable in my country (only dirrectly from EK). So I'll just have to wait and try different setups.

http://bandwidth.se/thumbs/3828
Having the NB load @ ~39 degrees celsius. (1.6v, using 4 sticks of ram).
The southbridge is steady @ 40 degrees celsius. Kind of regret that I didn't change the thermal paste on that sucker as well. But I really think that it was a pain in the ass to remove the stock paste on the NB, SB don't require much cooling so I thought it would be cool.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nowakjan2000

I tried Core Temp, but seems its not working with Vista x64. As for the temps - "too bad" isn't enough for me. I think the problem is with the radiators not doing ther job properly. I've already ordered Thermochill PA120.3. Hope this will give the whole loop proper cooling. By the way, what coolant would you recommend? I'm using Thermaltake UV sensitive. And also I want to watercool mosfets with EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a. But for the moment they are unvailable in my country (only dirrectly from EK). So I'll just have to wait and try different setups.

---

Hi, if it's any help with an ambient temp of 23c, my cpu is 33, 32,27,31, mb is 30, nb is 33 and sb is 35 all at idle. My loop is res-pump-gfx-nb-rad-cpu, I got that way as recommeded by swiftech.
As Iam using uv 1/2" tubing my coolant is Feser one clear, before then, when I used clear tubing, my coolant was Fluid XP+, green.

This was my first rig:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...u/DSCF0331.jpg

And this my present:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...u/DSC00391.jpg

I think I need more uv tubes and a rear led fan...

This is how I've mounted my 120.3

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...u/P8270008.jpg

It didn't do much to my idle temps but it has allowed me to overclock to 3.6 and dropped my load temps from 85c to a max of 55c...
Chris

Very clever idea with mounting this Thermochill radiator! Did you have to cut through the case or was there a hole already? I'm asking because soon I'm going to face the problem of mounting my PA120.3, and I'm already short of space. I hope getting PA120.3 into my loop will solve the temperature problem.

that is sweet work and i am going to do mine close to the same. the only thing i wonder about is the radiator being at the top of the loop with no where for air to excape.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nowakjan2000

Very clever idea with mounting this Thermochill radiator! Did you have to cut through the case or was there a hole already? I'm asking because soon I'm going to face the problem of mounting my PA120.3, and I'm already short of space. I hope getting PA120.3 into my loop will solve the temperature problem.

---

Hi again, no I didn't cut it, the suppliers of the case did it for me, damm good job they made of it to as the barbs lined up perfectly:

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...u/P8270009.jpg

Chris

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NysoO

http://bandwidth.se/thumbs/3828
Having the NB load @ ~39 degrees celsius. (1.6v, using 4 sticks of ram).
The southbridge is steady @ 40 degrees celsius. Kind of regret that I didn't change the thermal paste on that sucker as well. But I really think that it was a pain in the ass to remove the stock paste on the NB, SB don't require much cooling so I thought it would be cool.

---

Origional post updated with your data.

Thanks for the post!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by loften

that is sweet work and i am going to do mine close to the same. the only thing i wonder about is the radiator being at the top of the loop with no where for air to excape.

---

Hi, the rad has a bleed screw, besides I found turning the PC on its back or side and position the res higher and running it overnight worked fine...
Chris

changing my tubing soon, how the hell am i going to do this completely drain the nb block? I guess the only way is to remove the motherboard and tip it upside down?

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...menta/cpuz.jpg
and
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...imenta/OC1.jpg

Why we should re-paste everything.I re-pasted everything with MX-2
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...a/IMG_6151.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...a/IMG_6150.jpg

To remove the heatsink i used a compressed air can,turn it upside down and spray the top of the heat sink for like 8-10 seconds a liquid should come out making the sink very cold, so cold it should come right out,sure beats waiting for it in the fridge:D
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...a/IMG_6149.jpg

The thermaltake Extreme spirit II fits perfectly just check the temps on top

http://thermaltakeusa.com/product/cooler/VGAnCHIPnMEM/cl-c0034/cl-c0034.asp

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...a/IMG_6159.jpg

Still working on the Wire management:D
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...a/IMG_6163.jpg

I have the:
Swiftech Apogee GT
Swiftech H20-320 with 3 Scythe fans
Swiftech MCW60-R GPU Waterblock w/ G80 Adapter Plate
Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Waterblock
Swiftech MCP655 Inline 12V DC Pump
thermaltake Extreme spirit II

KALISPIMENTA youre only stressing two cores, 0 and 1, thats why you have two cores in the 50s and the other two in the 30s.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FrogBite

KALISPIMENTA youre only stressing two cores, 0 and 1, thats why you have two cores in the 50s and the other two in the 30s.

---

Thank you! I was wondering when someone was going to notice that.

PICS EDITED
Better?:(
I will run it all night and re-post manana.

They look good to me buddy!!

Thanks for the post. :up:

hey guys, long time lurker-ish here... just bought what i hope is a SE board http://www.pixmania.co.uk/uk/uk/6894...lga775-so.html, to replace a non-SE board sold to me as an SE board i.e. http://www.amakia.com/customer/estor...dproduct=86851
i've read somewhere that the newer non-SE boards come with the fusion waterblock anyway?

i also have a question about repasting the nb and sb

i have until now seen a number of options , yanking it straight off and risk taking the nb with it, heating it up before yanking it off, using fishing line to cut through the paste , and lastly and most recently, kalispimenta's chilling down method... i was considering going to the local 24 hour walmart to buy some dental floss and see if that can substitute for the fishing line, but is chilling the heatsink now the de facto way of removing it? if so i'll buy some ice cubes instead, somewhat messier but i dont end up with an empty can to deal with

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KALISPIMENTA

Why we should re-paste everything.I re-pasted everything with MX-2

---

Due to some members enjoying 10C lower NB temps under load, just from using a different TIM. That is just with remounting the stock ROG cooling.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by carmatic

hey guys, long time lurker-ish here... just bought what i hope is a SE board http://www.pixmania.co.uk/uk/uk/6894...lga775-so.html, to replace a non-SE board sold to me as an SE board i.e. http://www.amakia.com/customer/estor...dproduct=86851
i've read somewhere that the newer non-SE boards come with the fusion waterblock anyway?

i also have a question about repasting the nb and sb

i have until now seen a number of options , yanking it straight off and risk taking the nb with it, heating it up before yanking it off, using fishing line to cut through the paste , and lastly and most recently, kalispimenta's chilling down method... i was considering going to the local 24 hour walmart to buy some dental floss and see if that can substitute for the fishing line, but is chilling the heatsink now the de facto way of removing it? if so i'll buy some ice cubes instead, somewhat messier but i dont end up with an empty can to deal with

---

I don't know if there is a de facto way. ;)

The chilling method is the new kid on the block. I believe the lions share of us probably used the hair dryer method? Not sure.

I wouldn't be yanking anything. :)

With heat, gently wiggle the NB block side to side until it slides off. I think when you pull up, is when you could get into trouble...

Can't speak to using the chilled method.

ahh... i think i'll go and buy my dental floss and see if that would go through the paste for me

but first im waiting for my SE maximus to arrive... it will be saturday prolly, if they do saturday deliveries

btw it seems that eastcoasthandle had the same idea about cooling the block to get it off... its a pretty standard method anyways, now that i think of it... i thought that condensation and moisture on the board wouldnt hurt it, as long as you let it dry completely before you pass electricity through it?

that mips waterblock kit looks very very nice, but my existing watercooling system is 1/2" , so :( otherwise i would have stuck with my non-SE board and spent abit more money on those blocks... i dont get like, why people buy the SE boards just to install aftermarket waterblocks, dont they save some money by buying a standard maximus since they cost abit less than the SE's ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by carmatic

That mips waterblock kit looks very very nice, but my existing watercooling system is 1/2" , so :( otherwise i would have stuck with my non-SE board and spent abit more money on those blocks... i dont get like, why people buy the SE boards just to install aftermarket waterblocks, dont they save some money by buying a standard maximus since they cost abit less than the SE's ?

---

The SE was released first. The non SE was not an option.

I baught all aftermarket cooling stuff now, so I would of rather had the non SE board myself.

I also believe if you go with an aftermarket NB block, you will see an additional 5 to 10 C lower NB temps, on top of the 10 C savings from using a different TIM, and the remount.

If you go with the MIPS NB block, your loaded NB temps will probably be 15C or more lower then using the stock ROG cooling.

If you havent seen the chart on page 1 of this thread, be sure to give it a look. ;)

yeah i have, but my problem is that i already have a gpu and cpu waterblock which are both 1/2" and i dont know where i can buy a y-splitter where its 1/2" on 2 sides and whatever size mips uses on the 3rd side... my previous dual-diameter watercooling attempt was a nightmare, all the stuff i had to do to adapt between the 2 diameters were twice as complicated as the parts which did the actual cooling, and the 2 different diameters were done in parallel so i still had decent flowrate in the 1/2 stuff

ive read from that virtual hideout review of the asus striker's fusion block that it has a flat chamber bottom... if there is a way to open the block up without destroying it, i'd gladly take my dremel to it and carve out some patterns at the bottom to give it some turbulence... the thing is i really like the idea of a watercooled heatpipe to the southbridge, it is better than a heatsink cuz you either point an extra fan on it or you let it heat up more, and its also better than watercooling it cuz the southbridge doesnt need that much cooling and its extra complexity, cost and restriction in your cooling loop to have a waterblock on it... plus it comes with 1/2" fittings (i assume) , and i can run it in series with my gpu and cpu

what i do like about the mips set is their mosfet watercoolers, i havent looked much but are they the only ones to do that? again, i cannot install them unless i find the mythical y-hose adaptor with 2 sizes...

Are you saying you would like a aftermarket NB block with 1/2" fittings, or want to keep the stock ROG cooling for the SB'es heat pipe?

You are looking for the Y fitting to run your MOSFET blocks in parallel correct...

I agree, that the SB does not need to be under water, and unless your running more than one loop, I wouldn't want the extra restriction that another block would add into mine. :)

There are the EK blocks too...