Vgpu and Vmem installed.
With Vgpu at 1.155 loaded and vmem at 2.025 here is a prelim. I get slight artifacts at 820 core and 2000 shader.
So far so GOOD!
vGPU Will be heading north shortly...
:)
Printable View
Vgpu and Vmem installed.
With Vgpu at 1.155 loaded and vmem at 2.025 here is a prelim. I get slight artifacts at 820 core and 2000 shader.
So far so GOOD!
vGPU Will be heading north shortly...
:)
PLEEEEEEEASE provide info on cooling and vdrop and vdroop you guys are seeing after the mod :) :up:
nice clocks, what brand card do you have and what are the clocks, type of cooling is being used i have a gpu block and some ramsinks for the chips is there ne where else that needs to be cooled
nvm about cooling just seen last page, nice temps on the swiftech block, ive got the same one going on, easy as just putting some as5 on and slapping block on?, heard the core can break easy cause its missing s shim or something that the g80 has
If you are using the 7900GTX MCW-60 mount, do NOT tighten all the screws down like you usually do. The G92 core it taller and you will notice the "feet" on the mount do not touch the PCB when the waterblock is resting on the core.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_lee300
I used the stock mount and slowly tightened the screws while checking the clearance between the feed on the GPU side and slowly pulled them down to where i felt the block both sat flat on the die (all feet approximately same clearance, slightly touching on outter edge possible due to flex) and did not exert too much pressure. You have to feel it out, LOL.
The rest of the cooling system is 1/2" line, Swiftech 220 radiator and MCW-650 pump. The CPU is air cooled at the moment.
:cheers:
Edit: This is the card. The ramsinks, and that mounting ring are from Viper John. I am using the MCW-60 at the moment as even with some good 90s I did not have room in my case for the X-Fi, so the top two ram chips now have low profile sinks on them to clear the barbs.
I am not seeing any vdrop/vdroop while running ATITool. Unloaded desktop vGPU is now 1.161v and loaded vGPU goes from 1.198v to 1.201v.Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
Prelim Results at 1.2v
excellent news
what was you gain in 0.5v increments can you give us a rough idea
Here is 5 minutes of ATITool at 848mhz core. The next step up for ROP is 864mhz. ATITool runs without errors but you can see the occasional yellow pixel.
Current vGPU is 1.260v. The memory is pretty much crap, not sure if Nibitor is reading the right timing set but I will probably loosen the timing up and see if there is anymore headroom in them.
Not so bad, too bad the system it is in can't keep up with the card. :rolleyes:
:cheers:
excellent man
really excellent
you are not wrong about system not being able to keep up
you'll need a bloody 4.5Ghz+ Quad to just start to keep up :D
That 900mhz is just teasing me. I'm not quite ready to go over 1.3v yet, gonna play some games for a bit first at this setting.
When I say the system can't keep up, I mean it. LOL
FX-60 @ 3ghz
DFI NF-4 Ultra
2GB G.Skill DDR @ 550mhz, 3-4-4-8
Been holding out for Penryn, Phenom looks like a turd so I'll be building a system in the coming months. My 3Dmark05 score does not change between 700mhz and 800mhz... :rofl:
zOMG my condolences :D :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by VETDRMS
Is your shader still at 2GHz? Or did you get it higher?
So, voltage isn't helping the vRAM get any higher than 1GHz? What voltages have you tried?
Yeah, shader is at 2000mhz. Next shader step is 2064mhz which shows some artifacts in ATITool. vRAM is currently at 2.015v. 2.056v did nothing, have not tried higher. With VDDQ tied to VDD on these cards it will probably freak out around 2.1v and at 2.056 it does nothing so I'm not too hopeful there.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
EDIT: Hey, looks like the timings that are used in the bios are actually for Samsung GDDR specs. They are a lot tighter than the Qimonda data sheet timings for 1ns chips. I am going to loosen a few timings in the bios and see if it helps the memory OC.
Hey now, it still gets the job done. ROFLQuote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
Seriously though, at 700mhz core my 3DMark05 score is the same as it is at 800+mhz core. :shrug:
Awsome results, could any of you run some 3dmarks to see how well the card does and scales.
850MHz on the core is huge, i also think this GDDR3 is crap hopefully someone will use another brand.
dinos
rememer card does not droop /drop at load
umm 3c cooling lol
in a few minutes a zalman vf-1000 with modded fan
So VETDRMS can you show us some pictures of the mod? What's the right way to do it? Also what vr did you use for vgpu and vmem?
Amazing results... I half-want to try the mod, but A) I don't think my Thermaltake ND1's will keep up, and B) I'm honestly worried I would kill the cards trying due to the tiny size of the solder point and adjacent components. GRATS and keep us posted :D!
The benchmarks wouldn't mean much on my system, it is way outpaced by the video card. Sorry. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by metro.cl
After some advice from you, I could probably hit it I think now, was picturing a different method in my head. The big question mark is, would my cooler keep up? Think stock-8800GTX cooler, it's basically the same thing.
Sure. I would normally not use the Radioshack VR but I had none around that were low enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by georgesod
I used 50K on the vmem as my card came with stock VDD of 1.95 and a 20K bumped that up to 2.056 right away. The 1K on the vGPU is only a 15 turn but the vGPU increments are still fine. It would look better if I had the Bourns type. Oh well.
:up:
VETDRMS,
I take you glued the VRs the PCB?
Solder alone won't hold them...
:)
I used some strong double stick adhesive. Has worked well all the way back to my poor 9700Pro. :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
That vmod looks a lot easier i might try it i only need to get the 1k VR :)Quote:
Originally Posted by VETDRMS
Your Vram doesnt seem to overclock over 1000mhz is that right? i can bench at 1040mhz stock volts
Yes, it craps out at 1026mhz, even at 2.025v. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by metro.cl
Man, this memory sucks. I loosened the timings to Qimonda spec (the stock bios is closer to Samsung 1ns spec - come on partners, put Samsung in the board). And even at 2.075v Mem it craps out real fast at 1044mhz.
That being said I seem to have hit a new problem. The core will not clock over 864mhz. No matter how high I go in the overclock setting in RivaTuner the ROP clock stays at 864mhz. :shrug:
Anyone else been this high?
Well, the shader seems to like the extra voltage. 2052mhz shader is 100% stable, while the core seems mostly stable at 864mhz. As I mentioned before I can't go any higher with Rivatuner, it will not change ROP over 864mhz.
Shader will run for a while at 2104mhz, but will artifact after a minute or so.
I'm pretty impressed, at 1.315v its rocking!
oh my god thats just sick..thanks for your sharings...gonna get this card soon.
btw: whats the best avaible cooler for 88gt? air cooler, i mean.
and: may it be too risky putting the voltage on something like 1.3v when cooling with air?
thanks for your reply!
i would say soQuote:
Originally Posted by Chris'
What do you think of say 1.2v-ish? I'm planning on doing the voltmod, but there's no reason to if it's gonna just make it overheat on me and give me no gain that way :p.Quote:
Originally Posted by hstuehmeyer2000
VETDRMS, that's bad luck on the memory :(... on stock voltage on mine still, and I get up to 2100 (1050) stable easily, haven't tried higher yet.
you are very lucky with your shader clocks there not to mention core
:up:
no point touching RAM so maybe back down in case you kill it
goes out to finder a soldering iron and 1K VR :D:D:D:D:D
what do you guys suggest in terms of soldering irons
i want 1GHz core :D:D:D:D: and some dice :D is that too much to ask :rofl:
Hey, the next step from 864mhz for setting the ROP clock is 918mhz. No go there, instant hard lock. LOL
I am having some memory problems at the moment. :(
With the high ROP/Shader clock it will artifact at 1000mhz. At 900mhz memory its rocks table. Ran loops of 3DMark at 864/2106mhz at 1.281v with no problem.
If your going to drop some dry/ice LN2 on it, I think 1ghz won't be a problem at all.
Shader will go as high as 2160 mhz now, but will artifact a bit.
Also, Nibitor is reporting some strange memory timings when I try to make changes and flash the bios. The settings don't get set right or Nibitor isn't readin them right, just FYI.
LOL @ 918mhz being the next step :eek:.
Still trying to debate with myself if my cooling will be enough, if so I'm gonna do it :D.
What are the chances that we see some super easy conductive ink mods?
IMHO the soldering is super easy. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by NJDevilsFan21
Oh, by the way, I wouldn't waste your time with the vMem mod. The Qimonda chips on my board at least hate high VDD, most likely due to the VDDQ voltage being tied in with VDD. Even at 2.020v it would freak out at 1000mhz. I unsoldered the VR and now at 1.995v (stock form EVGA is high for some reason) the memory is fine at 1000mhz.
So, final stable clock for now in games/3DMark ect is 864/2106/1000.
Zero, lol, this doesnt use the same method that the 7900gt/gs use :DQuote:
Originally Posted by NJDevilsFan21
Hey how hot do the voltage regulators get when you run 1.3v GPU?
Nice :D.
I really want to do this mod, but not positive my cooling'll handle it. Take a look and let me know :)? Also, should I sink the MOSFETs/etc.? I'm hitting pretty good clocks but I'm wondering if doing so would let me get further, especially if/once I do the vGPU mod.
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5736/8800nd12tc5.jpg
nice, but i intend to keep my warranty, therefore no vmod...
unless there is a pencil vmod , which is irreversible
Proper soldering iron would be Weller EC3001 or equivalent.
Source in US for parts... pots, etc is Digikey.
Go to Radioshack and get some KYNAR 30ga rework wire. Use it for these things. Makes for much cleaner work, and easier to work with SMD. Also, look into getting a nice magnifying ringlight, makes it alot easier to work on tiny SMD stuff.
GoldenTiger:
I don't think 1.175 or 1.200v would be a problem, those are some decent heatsinks. My stock SSC was 1.137 on the single slot cooler.
Unless you like the smell of roasted mosfet I would advice you install some sinks on them. They do get pretty hot and when you up the voltage they will get much hotter. The copper sinks on my mosfets get up to around 122F.
So, what kind of clocks are you getting??? :)
Damn, but conductive ink... if you ever destroy the card you pull out the acetone and bam it never happened! :(Quote:
Originally Posted by oohms
I want to put the FC-ZV9 that I have on my 7900GT, but I have to break 75C with stock cooler, fan set to 70% with 720/1836/2000 clocks at 73F room temp. I just don't have any extra ram sinks for the mosfets.
You are also running 864MHz on the core and 2100MHz shader!! :eek:Quote:
Unless you like the smell of roasted mosfet I would advice you install some sinks on them. They do get pretty hot and when you up the voltage they will get much hotter. The copper sinks on my mosfets get up to around 122F.
Right now the only possible vmod for me is if that BIOS soft mod from 1.05V to 1.1V actually works, or else I'll just forget about it. Crysis now runs well all settings high, that's all I care about.
Music to my ears :D.Quote:
Originally Posted by VETDRMS
No, thank you, but I prefer french vanilla coffee if anything has to roast :p . I'll remount and put sinks on those MOSFETs tomorrow :), and do the mod soon (getting a new PSU in to make sure I'm not being power-limited, seems iffy).
The max clocks I can do right now are 736/1836/2100 core/shader/ram in SLI... I have a feeling more power would help, because if I overclock even one ROP notch above this, the screen goes black, flickers on a couple seconds, etc., seems like a power issue even on the overclock limiting me, let alone the system/performance.
Haha, I guess that's one way of thinking of it :D! I have RAMsinks since they came with my coolers, they're perfect height too :)... didn't own any otherwise, but each ND1 came with 4, so that's plenty. I bet having those high clocks sure help the power circuitry heat up. As far as the BIOS soft-mod, it turns out 1.05v is "idle" and 1.1v is "3d-mode" normally, so there is no soft-mod currently thought of.Quote:
Originally Posted by NJDevilsFan21
Just ordered a nice, hefty PSU, it should be here Tuesday, which is when I'll probably do the voltmod, if I can push the CPU up easily :D. Otherwise I'll do it later once I've sorted that bottleneck out.
Getting this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139006
Anyone know if all brands use Qimonda mems on all 8800 gt cards? , and i wonder one more things also can a new bios or something remove the big overclocking steps?. The clocks steps are realy to big.
GoldenTiger what psu do you using? and are you trying to clock in sli?
Clock steps, I believe, are what they are because of the clock crystal used on the board. No amount of BIOS modding will change that. Only would be to desolder the stock crystal and replace it with a smaller one and voilá; you got lower steps.
The crystal on GT looks like an all-metallic rectangle chip and it's located near the GPU, just by it's left side.
Impressive grapich card! Congratz to all for the results :up:
864 core and 2000+ on shader?!?!?
maybe I'll have to retire my 6800 after all
Hi,
Stock cooling with 1.180v i break the 16K barrier:
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/5...8800gt1di9.jpg
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/5...dd6bb9d6ca.jpg
only 70°c with fan at 100%
waste of money. You would've been better off with this single 12v rail@ 41AQuote:
Originally Posted by GoldenTiger
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139004
why?Quote:
Originally Posted by trans am
So ND1 fits 8800gt fine?Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenTiger
you either have to mod the card by removing the fan connetor, or cut a notch in the heatsink of the cooler for the fan connector to sit in. I notched my heatsink. It's pretty easy, 2 cuts with a hacksaw.Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi
Ahh didn't know you can notch the heat sink, got any pics?
edit: Just noticed your pics in another thread, you cut the copper part away is that correct?
thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diverge
Yep, that's what he did. If I had thought of a hacksaw (DOH!!!!) I would have done the same :rofl: . It amazes me that I didn't for some reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagleclaw
hmmm might be worth looking intoQuote:
Originally Posted by largon
what sort of resistance should we be looking at for "safe initial test"???
dinos22,
The problem with pencil vGPU mod is the low resistance between vsense and ground. Pencil vGPU modding was quite difficult on G80GTS/GTX eventhough their vsense_pin-2-ground resistance was 35Ω and since G92GT's vsense reads even lower (15Ω) pencilling becomes one step more difficult. 15Ω is awfully low to be penciled; it leaves very little room for error. Vsense-2-ground resistance could easily dip way too low consequently yielding a dangerously high vGPU.
But ofcourse, there's nothing that really prevents from experimentally pencilling the little bugger and measuring the resultant resistance, no harm done there. Just remember to apply pencil very slightly, and do not power up the card blindly without being sure the resistance doesn't get too low. And since I don't have the card I can't tell how low a resistance yields what vGPU. Hence, I have no idea what are safe resistances. We need someone who has done the VR mod to provide resistance readings...
People who have done the mod with VR: How low Ω between the vGPU mod solder points @ 1.2V / 1.3V / 1.XV?)
!CAUTION, UNTESTED MOD! READ THE ABOVE TEXT BEFORE MODDING!
Here's the pencillable resistor (optionally, you can pencil the one next to it on the right side):
!CAUTION, UNTESTED MOD!
Attachment 66784
!CAUTION, UNTESTED MOD!
i think pencil modding *looks* to be a bad idea and maybe some extra loud warnings are necessary in posts referring to it i think
Now, if some were to unsolder those two resistors and measure their values we would know if the pencilmod is safe... If we're in luck the other resistor would be low value (close to 15Ω) and the other considerably higher (some couple hundred Ω), if this was the case penciling the higher rated resistor wouldn't result in dangerous resultant resistance thus pencilmod would be safe.
Anyone?
:P
Dino, as a starting point any $10 30W soldering iron will do, as long as the tip is nice and pointy.
Get yourself some fine roll of solder and you are off and away :)
Very nice clocks guys, at those speeds we're looking at twice my G84.
I may have to be the first to try a pencil mod. Just try to change it a hair and see what happens. I'll let ya'll know if I get bored tonight.
At stock everything but fan speed, my XFX seems to like 733/18xx/1050 just fine, but another 10% wouldn't hurt if it's easy to come by.
Thanks for figuring out the volt mods.
I did this voltmod, and almost destroyed my card.
I'm actually surprised it is still working.
I have soldered many times before and have a good soldering iron but the wire i used was too thick and it ripped off couple times, taking the soldering points with it, and those resistors are really small too, but should be better next time around
ok so i turned it up to 1.35v and the stable overclock i got is 864/2106/970
the next step is 879.5 for the core and 2160 for the shaders, both unstable with this voltage
the ram is really bad, only got few mhz out of it, i can bench it @1025 but it's unstable in games
i wonder if it can go any higher with more voltage,
but i want to play couple games before i fry it :yepp:
what are your temps and what type of cooling do you have?
watercooling with maze4 gpu block, heatsinks on ram (useless) and vregs,
idle 36 load 45
does the maze4 fits without any modification? also guys, so far what vgpu would you consider "safe" (please don´t say stock) for 24/7 on water?Quote:
Originally Posted by winbond
yes, the maze4 gpu fits without any modification, 24/7 voltage? i don't know but i would say if everything is cooled well 1.3v shouldn't be a problem
Guys, listen up. Running the memory at 2000 or higher for long period of time can be an issue.
See here:
http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.ph...8&postcount=13
And here:
http://i4memory.com/showthread.php?t=5030
Sorry if linking across forums is taboo, but it's important. You can slowly kill the memory running it over 2k.
EDIT: I have been debating on an 8800GT or the new ATI offering. Since my volt modded 7900GT was so good to me I think I will go with the 8800GT as well. Just wanted to get this post up for you guys.
Just like I thought... 256-bit ;)
Still these cards clock like crazy...hmmm tempting :up:
just want to post an update, 849/2052 is the highest stable clock regardless of voltage, i went up to 1.47v
the 864/2106 is stable in crysis and benchmarks, but unstable in stalker,
my ram actually maxes out @ 956, im pretty sure the cards that came with 1000 ram clocks are unstable since its the same ram, voltage and timings
......ok , new discovery, at anything over 1.3v the card crashes, so i suggest you stay around 1.3 max for now, unless you have some super cooling,
(to me) it looks like some component on the card is overheating, my max overclock plays fine for 2/5 minutes then crashes. i have the heatsinks on all vregs and a big fan blowing on it so those are fine and my core is @ 45 so it's got to be something else.
if you are able you should test the temps of all the components on the card during load, i have no room to work with at all and don't have a good thermometer either
I think I am going to have to give this a shot tonight. I will report back to you what I get.
I had no issues running at 1.320v, but there was no need to as I am now 100% stable at 864/2106 at 1.281v. It probably varies by card, my loaded temps at 1.320v were 33C.Quote:
Originally Posted by winbond
How many minutes stable is this?Quote:
Originally Posted by VETDRMS
Is it possible to run some under AtiTool 0.27?
Can you open up Crysis (Not benchmark, get some explosions in there) and play for over 15 minutes?
Any other games?
It just seems to good to be true, I am looking into doing one of these as I have a Accelero S1 cooler and my load temps are only 52C atm with 713/1728/948 clocks. (713 = Crysis stable [As in blowing up 40 trucks at a time and detonating 3 nukes simultaneously]) 740/1890/948 = UT3 Stable.
Of course clocks for Crysis are the only things that matter :lol2:
That's for all the stuff you've ran so far. :up:
p.s. Where can I order a 500 Ohm variable multi turn resistor cheaply from California ;)
:up: [QUOTE=Hazaro;2539122]How many minutes stable is this?
Is it possible to run some under AtiTool 0.27?
Can you open up Crysis (Not benchmark, get some explosions in there) and play for over 15 minutes?
QUOTE]
30 minutes in ATITool, 6 hours in WoW at 1650x1050 8xAA, 30 minutes or so in NFS: Pro Street, Loops of 3Dmark05/06. I have done 6 loops or so of Crysis timedemo too, no artifacts/locks, ect..
500 ohm variable multi turn restistor: Radioshack. in their lil bins in the middle of the store that hold resistors led's etc etc. they should have some VR's there i bought a 10k and 500 from there.
[QUOTE=VETDRMS;2539282]:up:Awesome.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hazaro
How are you measuring GPU voltage? (multimeter?)
If so, isn't there something to be concerned about putting extra current or something along the lines? (Or am I thinking about other extremely sensitive components?)
I was under the impression that the ones at RadioShack were single turn?
I wanna get this done :D
Thanks so far guys.
the one i got from radioshack def wasnt single turn. its a blue rectangle. i dont ahve the box hadny otherwise ide snap you a shot of it :) they should have one even if its not online just ask for a multi turn VR or call them up and haev them check. its onyl a dollar or two as well
I just picked up a 1k-ohm VR from radioshack and it's a 15 turn so I think it should be ok.
So I checked my card again.
That point is ridiculously small.
I have almost no soldering experience so I'm a "bit" hesitant to do this. :yepp:
I shall wait longer :(
Work on my CPU lol...
I'm going to be doing this with no solder at all.
How?
Well I know a little trick with conductive ink and superglue. Simply put you mix up a solution of conductive ink and superglue (gel type works best). Preattach your VR to the card with some double sided tape so it doesn't move around and make sure you prebend one leg of your VR so it makes conact with your solder point when you attach it with the double sided tape.
Once you have the VR in place simply apply the glue solution with a safety pin or any other small tip you happen to have handy and waite for it to dry.
You should also preattach the ground wire to your VR before you place it on the board and follow the same steps above to attach the other end to ground.
At the surface it doesn't seem like it would give a solid connection or conductivity if you mixed in superglue with conductive pen, is the distance just negligible? We aren't talking about a lot of volts here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysterfix
Although I guess you could always lower or raise the resistance to accommodate.
But what do I know :rolleyes:
How many times have you done this before? Does a liquid superglue really matter? ;)
All I'm doing is making the connections with the resistor using the conductive ink solution instead of solder. I've done it on a couple of cards, X800XT and 7800GT were the latest. The gel type dries slower giving you more time to work with it and it doesn't run.:up:
Find an old PCB and practice. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Hazaro
Hey Jason :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
Joining the migrating flock are we? :D
I need:
Soldering iron
Multimeter
Solder
Old PCB
:up:
***
I realize what you are doing with the pen, but I was wondering if the superglue + ink would weaken the conductive properties of it.
I need to get some double stick tape and a pen now. Off to RadioShack I guess. Oh, and a multimeter:rolleyes:
Has anyone tried to increase vgpu through bios mod. I increased the stock bios' 3D voltage with Nibitor to 1,22v and flashed it back to my card. It appears to be working as I get far more stable core clocks over 700MHz and up to 800MHz. I guess the voltage increase is small (I didn't have the time to measure it with a DMM) but is probably not even close to the set value. When I'll get home I'll measure it so not to speak hypothetically.
how did you increase the voltage in bios to 1.22v when the highest available voltage is 1.1v?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysterfix
That is defenitly an idea
Yes sir!Quote:
Originally Posted by Hazaro
This is where the volt-mod action is! :yepp:
winbond there is an option in Nibitor that enables you to modify voltages for the bios in process. Go to Tools > Voltage Table Editor
Quote:
Originally Posted by HighT3ch
Have you tested this w/ a DMM yet to confirm it's working?
We need pics!
Off to Radioshack now to see if I can pick up anything.
[QUOTE=Hazaro;2539356]Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Yes, I meter with a multimeter. There is virtually no risk metering the voltage using a decent multimter.Quote:
Originally Posted by VETDRMS
The blue 1kohm pots from radioshack are 15 turn. I posted a picture of the mod, VRs included a few pages back. I prefer to use Bourns 25turn pots, but time was of the essence.
:cheers:
[QUOTE=VETDRMS;2543426]I guess $20 radioshack aren't quality :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hazaro
I will worry about the multimeter later, I picked up the 15 turn 1kOhm resistor from radioshack, had to visit two to get it. Neither had conductive ink pens, as well as the local hardware store. Internet time for me.
*also what % superglue / ink pen?
Does anyone have resistance readings for voltages? I have the 1k VR from Radio Shack and would like to know what value to preset the resistance. 1.2 volts would be a good start and 1.3 a good ending.
I replaced the stock heatsink with the Thermalright V2 and have 48C load so I have 20C to play with now. :) It looks like 1.2 volts will be safe, maybe even 1.28 as was posted earlier. So if someone could give resistance readings it will be much appreciated and would benefit future posters/lurkers as this could be a very popular mod soon. Thanks VETDRMS/largon and others for posting pics.
Always start out at the highest resistance and work your way down. So, attach the VR at 1k-ohm. Measure vGPU on startup, and adjust accordingly. Some people don't like to make adjustments while the system is powered up but I have never had a problem with it, just make them slowly. Give the VR a slow full turn and see how much vGPU went up. This is a decent gauge for adjustments, but keep in mind it will not stay linear. As you approach 0-ohms (lets hope you don't) it will go up much faster.Quote:
Originally Posted by JKDC
A little patience goes a long way, but not too much patience. LOL
Edit: I would not recommend the conductive ink/superglue as you will find that the attachment points for vGPU are VERY close together. If you can be 100% certain not to get it spread out, maybe. Soldering is not difficult, it just takes some practice, so find a dead board or an old soundcard or something and practice. Too much heat will kill those small thin-film resistors we are soldering to, just keep that in mind.
Can't I start it at 500 ohms? It was stated earlier in the thread that a 500 ohm would work also. I hooked it up to my MultiMeter and it took me 2 minutes of cranking to go 250 ohms. LOL It would be nice to set it closer to the actual value I need.
Jason no, not yet - didn't have the time. I'll do it during the weekend as I'll have more spare time. All I can say for now is that it actually affects the OCing ability but I don't know any real voltage figures.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
:yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by JKDC
I can confirm that this is working. I tried 1.25 and 1.3 but got the same results. I now set it to 1.2 volts and have the same OC. I imagine this only goes to 1.15 on the card. My OC went from 702/1722 to 756/1836. I set the lowest voltages to 1.1 and the two highest to 1.2. You have to edit the voltages before they show in the table. My temps went up 2C idle and 3C load with a thermalright V2 cooler. With stock cooling you better have the fan speed up to 50%+ before trying this.Quote:
Originally Posted by HighT3ch
It's still not enough to stop the vmod unfortunately but it is free and easier. Make sure you have the latest NBitor (v3.5a) and NVflash (v5.57). Previous versions don't support the 8800GT. Use the thread on extreme bios mod for the 8800GT for switches and floppy DOS image. Remember to back up original BIOS first and have a spare PCI card just in case you need to flash it back.
JKDC - that's great news. I was getting ready to do the voltmod, but I'd be happy with another 50mhz from just the bios mod. Can you confirm how much more voltage it is sending with a dmm? Which brand of card are you using?
Thanks!