Thank you for your answer but i think ill skip the buy then, looking into a new one but it looks like the board is EOL.
Only 3 shops still got it in the Netherlands :(
thanks for that but what do you meen if its a keeper i cant afford to replase it so i will be keeping it ps how do you know if you have a good chip i get confused on how to tell.
If i run the cpu @80c in intel burn test how long will it last or will i only get a couple of years out of it i really need it to last me to be honnest but i do know if its at stock speeds its good for at least 10 years
Argh. Guys I think I made a big boo boo.
I got my heatkiller 3.0 today and I installed it immediately. So I pull the old sink, clean everything, and I install the heatkiller, fill the loop and turn it on.
tttt tick ttt tick ttick . Wierd sound coming from near cpu area..... no boot, no signal to monitor, nothing.
I turn off the fans one by one to make sure they're not doing it.
tttttick tt tick tick tick tttt tick ttttick
All fans off, still making the noise.
So I listen closer and determine it's coming from the cpu area.
Fail...
Long story short, I apparently installed the heatkiller backplate backwards.
I'm figuring that the backplate was making something short on the back of the cpu area. Even with the rubber pad.
In my defense, the rubber pad sort of snaps in place on the wrong side of the backplate. I thought it felt right so I popped it on that way.
Big mistake.
SO... I re-installed the backplate and got everything back in order. I reset cmos by pulling the battery. I powered it up.
Stock settings run fine
My overclocks no longer are stable above 4.0ghz. It won't boot at all over 4.2, with my previous settings.
So, I just ordered another ud3r from newegg. It should be here monday next week.
stupid me, should have taken my time. Heatkiller instructions didn't say or show which way it went, but I blame myself.
resho, that's unfortunate. Hope you have fun with your "new" UD3R.
for frontal sound work, have to do something?
bios or something?
plugged into the motherboard, but does not recognize when plugged the headset and microphone on the front
make sure your case's connector has all the right pins in it. there's one called "sense" I think. IIRC it's a green wire (but I may be totally off)
Also, there should be a setting in your hd audio setup (red colored speaker at bottom right of desktop) I can't remember exactly what it's called, but something one the lines of "auto detect front panel" something or other.
You are using the "hd" audio plug right? I don't know anything about the ac97 stuff.
HTH
I have a Chieftec CX-01, I think the plug it is wrong, how would I know what each saw? has nothing marked MIC2_L, GND, MIC2_R or something
http://www.intel.com/support/motherb...mg/fp_pins.jpg
and
http://ask.creative.com/wwimages/aud...rontpanel1.jpg
As far as I know, ground is always black and always thicker gauge wire.
has this card, it is that I do not know which is which.
because the way it is, can not find anything
so I think I should be with the wrong ones
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/1604/moto0132.th.jpg http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/1685/moto0129.th.jpg http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/1825/moto0133x.th.jpg
Looks like you might be missing a wire or two on the audio cable, maybe not though.
I'm really not sure where to send you to get another, if you need one. I ordered this one from here a few days ago, but I haven't gotten it yet, so I can't recommend them.
Maybe try to check that the software is enabled to allow it to connect automatically.
Hey Guys I'm back , Ive been lost messing with my DFI LP UT P35 T2R and my budget e5200 , lots of fun since the P35 tweaks so good with dual cores , but now my Udp3 needs some luv and after tweaking the P35 T2R timings , my budget system feels so much snappier even with a way lower fsb than my UDP3
can you guys take a look at my timings ans maybe give me a lil advice where to drop timmings or even if I should do maybe a BIOS UPDATE , thanx again every 1 for last time and helping me get my board rock solid :up: :up: :up:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k7...rclocked40.jpg
It's probably because your gtls aren't set up right. You just have to go and tweak each setting indivisualy and test every time you change a setting to see if the system is acting more stable / snappy or not until you get that perfect spot.
I have my setup as snappy as it will get set at 485 x 8.5 right now and it is pushing 58.5~ GFlops in intel burntest in 93 seconds a test and this is the best spot I seem to be able to hit right now. I still need to hone in my NB GTL though as I have it set to auto rigth now but, everything else I have tweaked to perfection.
Hmm.. I'm having problems stuffing 8 GB of RAM in my EP45-UD3. Its 2x2 GB Geil Black Dragon, and 2x2 GB OCZ Reaper.
Any ideas?
dont hold me on this but it might be becuse of the geil is single bank memory and the ocz is duel bank and it might be conflicting i dont advise anyone to use 2 different types of memory unless the speed timings voltage and banks are the same
i could be rong though
hope it helps
ps i wouldnt use geil memory to be honnist it cant be that good since it dont have a heat speader
Put the system together today a couple hours ago (delayed due to power outage in hood, tree fell 'down by the river', lol). VERY impressed with Gigabyte's quality and attention to detail, probably best manual/userguide I've seen yet for mobo. Everything went together fine with good fit and finish, just burning it in overnight before I start to tweak anything. Having a Q9450 obviously limits me but with the OCZ Blade low voltage DRAM I think I can get myself a nice, reliable, OC setup that can run 24x7.
Impossible to overstate the value of this thread in my research to replace my fried ASUS X38 mobo with this new P45-UD3R - thanks to all of you that contributed so that I could benefit. I will be sure to post my feedback as I stumble my way through my OC attempts.
Oh - and the Megahalems fits a dream in 'standard' position even equipped with two S-Flex "F" fans - great board design.
I have two more sticks of Geil, i'll try that. Didnt want to do that unless i had to, since it took me ages to get them in the waterblocks :p:
They were bought in for a watercooled rig, and where used with a waterblock - worked and performed like a cham :)
to be honnest i dont think it is worth watercooling memory enyway memory dosent really get hot unless your overclocking the nuts of it but if it 1066mhz your using i would have thught overcloking the cpu you will still be able to get at least 4ghz maybe more on stock memory speeds with the ocz reaper x mine dont even get warm under load so to be honnest your water cooling them for no reason and making the loop more complicated
thats my oppinion though :)
hope it helps but honistly i think 2x2gb ocz will be better then 4x2gb geil becuse its over priced and i notest a massive improvement with the ocz
(dude sell the geil and get some more ocz trust me)
Has anyone experienced boot issues when running high MCH and FSB? Today I was pushing 4.6Ghz on my 9650 (over 500FSB) and I would get freezes at windows screen, raising MCH (1.5ish) would get me a no boot. The only remedy I figured out was to lower MCH to (1.42ish).
I was going to say he is pushing the stock heat sink to much but, report back to say that worked if what zsamz suggested works as I would like to know if it does or not just purely for my own knowledge about the board mind you.
You can grab a set of DDR 1150MHzs like I did they are still around. I ordered them because the 1200s were gone and they run at 1200 and more with 2.1v.
if you have tried running 2.1volts at your memory in bios and it still not working i would have thught its the motherbord but try 3 slips for a laugh if that dont work i dont know what to say i have sead everything i know of sorry pal good look with it
i only say use 3 slips of memory becuse i had a asus maximus 2 formula and it worked with upto 3 sticks of memory but as soon as i put 4 stick in bsod everytime it turned out to be the motherbord just incase it is the same thing