Damn nice job you guys, I will be adding mine soon.
How many of you guys use a Single RAW file to create HDR ?
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Damn nice job you guys, I will be adding mine soon.
How many of you guys use a Single RAW file to create HDR ?
i can and do both single, double or tripple....it depends on how many images are required to get the details in the light and the dark areas.
i now shoot RAW exclusively in case i need to hdr even a single shot...and when planning and hdr shot i'll shoot 3 shots to get the absolute maximum dynamic range to play with
Yea playing with 3 or 5 different EV shots is fun
s e t h those are lookin real good!
thanks...i've taken a lot of pics lately...only had a camera for about 3 months or so and already i'm on 14000 shots.
you must see how many dodgy ones i took to get a few good ones :D:
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/2...apped2dum5.png
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/d...ng/1/w1034.png
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/321...700toneqt4.png
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/dsc...png/1/w800.png
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8...800x600iy4.png
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/d...png/1/w800.png
My 1st HDRs with D40 w/o tripod and -2,-1,0,1,2 EV.
did I mess it up ??
Taken from a moving bus.
http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/p...-11024x768.jpg
ANP, what are you using for processing?
Soul, These are single RAW file HDRs created using Adobe Lightroom.
http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/p...-31024x768.jpg
I don't like the effect. Looks like an overly liberal use of filters to me, not HDR :shrug:
How do you create HDR's from Lightroom?Quote:
Originally Posted by ANP !!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate P.
Take your base photo, make 2 virtual copies of it ... adjust exposure for one by -2EV, the other by +2EV, then export all three photos and run them through HDR software like Photomatix.
(You don't have to do +/- 2EV, that's just the commonly used bracketing).
Oh, yeah, I knew how to do that, I thought he did the entire process in Lightroom...Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
This isn't creating any more dynamic range because you can't create new data that doesn't exist as it wasn't captured in any of the base exposures. This is "Pseudo-HDR" and doesn't give real HDR results.Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
I didn't mean to imply it gave REAL HDR, but it's the only way I know to get the affect using Lightroom. Or, at least to prepare the photos to process for a pseudo-HDR look. There are applications where it can be useful, although having the greater dynamic range of multiple exposures is always best.Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
Right, I just want to make sure people know about what HDR really is. We had a debate on it a while back but I think the truth has prevailed :)
The above method does "work", although you are not really creating an HDR image, just as long as people know that.
@ SETH: That's incredible.
Yea you got that right, I was gonna ask if they were real HDRs, I got my ans :p:. Although the Railway line pic did look like a good HDR attempt, while what I did was Filled some light. ;).Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
Hey guys. I'm really liking these HDR shots I'm seing everyone use here. There are a few really good ones here.
Anyways I have a D40, a Tripod, and other things of course. but a tripod and my D40. I want to take some HDR's. I also have Lightroom 2.0 what other programs will i need, Photomatix or whatever?? I'm just wondering as I'll be trying to do these soon.
Thanks!
If you do not have Photoshop I would recommend using Corel Paintshop Pro Photo X2. It does a much better job than Photomatix, but is no match for Photoshop CS3/CS4. The price difference is significant though.
HDR with a D40 will be hard, but not impossible. Good luck ;)
:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner
ok now my head hurts lol.. never crossed my mind that the camera would make any difference for HDR.. I thought all that is needed is enough light variation on each shot.
sigh.. do you have a suggestions on where I could do some reading to learn more about HDR?
:) :up:
The D40 lacks auto exposure bracketing so you'll have to manually meter for each exposure which makes it more difficult compared to other cameras.Quote:
Originally Posted by hoax
its because theres no exposure bracketing.. :( as well as my D60
it is extremely difficult even with my handy dandy manfrotto.. :(
mostly because of all the ghosting and slight moving around.
ah! thanks a lot guys. that makes complete sense :yepp: :am:
If you are fast with the shutter speed dial, you won't have a problem. Measure your base exposure, then halve your exposure time. Then from there, take 3 shots, doubling it every time.
Example:
Your light meter says the sky will be properly exposed at 1/500s. So, take the exposure at 1/250s. Flip it to 1/500 and shoot, then again at 1/1000 and shoot. Just be quick but don't shake the camera during the capture.