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I am a machinist by trade, and I can tell you just by looking at the pictures that the EK block is about ten times flatter than your old MCW60. If you don't like the non shininess, get some eagle metal polish and a few hours of spare time. :)
(the machining marks won't hurt)
I really don't think those small surface marks are going to make a damn bit of difference in your temps or overclock. The Evga block @ $250 is just too much. The Ek at a lower price point looks much stronger to me now.
I was talking about the surface finish, not about the flatness, of course it is good with machine cutting. Also I didn't pay attention to make the picture looking flat, as you can see, it is a macro shot - it distorts the flatness.Quote:
Originally Posted by iandh
regarding eagle metal polish you are absolutely right, I have to spend some time with it ... that's what I said in the beginning. I don't understand why I have to do it though, such as I expect a top quality of my WB from the manufacturer paying top $ for it.
Why don't we all read this:Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueAqua
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=8
Surface Finish Impact
"Here's the part I've been waiting to reveal... the importance of surface finish in relation to the impact on thermal conductivity. CPU coolers primarily depend on two heat transfer methods: conduction and radiation (heat-pipes also add convection). This being the case, let's start with conduction as it related to the mating surface between a heat source and a cooler.
Because of their density, metals are the best conductors of thermal energy. As density decreases so does conduction, which relegates fluids to be naturally less conductive. So ideally the less fluid between metals, the better heat will transfer between them. Ultimately, this means that the perfectly flat and well-polished surface (Noctua NH-U12P) is going to be preferred over the rougher and less even surface which required more TIM to fill the gaps (Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme).
Heat radiation is different however, and requires exactly the opposite. Because gases (air) are naturally poor heat conductors, surface area is key to the performance of cooling through radiation. This type of cooling is what you commonly see automobile radiators, which utilize large arrays of metal fins to radiate heat to be drawn away by a fan. The same is true for the CPU cooler, which needs as much surface area as possible to optimize it's radiative effects. OCZ and others have recognized that the surface of a heatsink does not have to be the sum of its overall size. By adding dimples and bends, the surface area is increased without growing the overall size.
To sum it all up, science teaches us that a smooth flat mating surface is ideal for CPU coolers so that less Thermal Interface Material is used. Because these coolers are using fans to force air over the heatsinks fins, the overall surface area of those fins should be as large and uneven as possible. In the next section we'll find out just how well all of these principals worked for our collection of test products."
I don't know how someone else wants to use his WB, but I want to over-clock to the max, and at that point our GPUs require as much attention for thermal conductivity as CPUs ... therefore such marks which make 50% of contact through TIM layer, even if it is 200 micron thick, instead of direct copper-copper contact, are inappropriate for me, IMO.
Sorry haven't bothered, and I'd go with the previous posters comments.Quote:
Why don't we all read this:
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=8
Surface Finish Impact
Yesterday I turned up the voltages to 1.3v for both cards, and temps were still sat at 30-31c. That's with a q6600 @ 1.54v sat in the loop.
RLM
For how long? Under stress test? What are the speeds of your RAD fans? How do you use your rads, are they in different loops, or in the same one, how are they connected, if so?Quote:
Originally Posted by RLM
What do you want to say, the WB is good enough for YOU in your loop without polishing, therefore NO ONE else needs that polishing?
We all are different, bud, therefore some people use plastic elbow fittings, and some people engineer their own elbows, such as this, for example: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=mother+elbows
Of course, for many people plastic ones or other ones are good enough.
Thanks to Martinm210 for his uber work, I bothered to read his thread and make my own elbows (a picture below).
Why I was not satisfied with recommended by performance-pcs Koolance ones? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...zl-lxg2_01.jpg
I don't know exactly (well, before experiments I can only guess that they are more restrictive and can create some turbulence for the flow), may be they are good enough for many people, but I wanted Martinm210's ones and such as he doesn't manufacture them anymore, I had to make my own. May be it's just me, call me "crazy", if you want. I would agree with that :D
Could you tell a bit more about "filed down to fit", please?
I"m pretty sure the "filed down to fit" is referring to the Original cover that came with the GX2. I'm guessing he wants to dremmel an opening in the OEM cover, so he can put it back on, and therefore "cover" either the blocks, or the big 'ole holes in the PCBs......
later,
Breezyjr
post #100 Yeehaa....
He has mentioned that regarding EK Supreme acetal WB ... not regarding GX2 WB as I can see in his post, Breezyjr.Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezyjr
Correct that's the EKsupreme Plate for the acetal waterblock. I have one of the original ones, and to fit it in the 790i, I used the dremel just to sand down the edges. We're talking about a mm or 2.Quote:
Could you tell a bit more about "filed down to fit", please?
RLM
you need SLI fittings from Aqua Tuning! nice setup tho. Glad you are finally watercooling your GPUS bro!Quote:
Originally Posted by jAkUp
Also, thanks for still talking to us lowly customers when you are now an exaulted vendor ;)
Aquas SLi fittings are nice :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
+1 on the thanks
jAkUp: No pre-order for Europe ?
In hindsight a bit of an unnecessary and arsey comment from me.Quote:
Sorry haven't bothered, and I'd go with the previous posters comments.
That said, and not ruling out the quality of the EVGA block, I'd say the EK even with it's imperfections is a decent product.
Ambient 27c. Q6600 in loop @ 3.82 1.544 idle and 1.48v load
Inno 9800 GX2 756/1890/1110 @ 1.22v to each core Cooling EK GX2 Block
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/2...ecisionxb8.jpg
RLM
ps. Precision is a nice little tool and works with non EVGA cards.
OK, of course I have spent some hours polishing the surfaces, they look now as they should, and I have started to mount the WB.Quote:
Originally Posted by RLM
Could you answer to several questions, please?
1. You have to look how tight you screw your PCB down to the WB, a bit more pressure - and the PCB is bowed, a but less - it doesn't sit good enough. How did you manage to make it sitting correctly, did you put some washers in between the surfaces or left screws to be loose?
2. Such as the heavy WB sits only on those loose screws, and the whole weight is applied to the PCB connector with forced angle, I expect some cracks in the PCB after some time, such as the WB will be moving. How did you fix the WB to your motherboard?
I wish I would be able to sell this product for $150, loose $89, add $100 and buy the professionally created product such as for example EVGA one or even DD ...
May be it's just me again ... such as you are happy with your WB and may be some other people are happy as well. Look at my avatar - people applied a label sticker on a CPU surface, then put some pasta on it and after that put it under a cooler ... somehow it worked ... of course, at stock speed. Such decisions, even being OK in some situations, can't be used by me - I can't justify such things always wanting to reach max limits with my hardware, still being within the safe electrical specifications.
It's better to have a horizontal motherboard for the GX2 blocks as they are very heavy like you say.Quote:
Originally Posted by gmcg
Why do you so the EK blocks look so "un-professional"? They look very nice to me!
And if I were you, I wouldn't care to much for looks, I would look for performance.
I know the EK performs very well, as EK makes EXCELLENT blocks, and has done for the past years and more years to come.
It's not about LOOKS, it's about PERFORMANCE. <Period.
I'll buy it off you :) I'm in Australia though, so postage might be a little pricey...
True, but I use Lian Li 343B-WCE and can't exchange this case just because of EK WB ... And even having this WB on a horisontally mounted MB, you will have a problem because it is fixed only on several loose screws ... the whole weight will be applied on those screws and on videocard's PCI-E connector.Quote:
Originally Posted by smee
Well, it's incorrect, by "look" I mean "construction". I have purchased this WB because I wanted to use blue LEDs underneath for a "look", having no doubts in EK engineering.Quote:
Why do you so the EK blocks look so "un-professional"? They look very nice to me!
100% agree. I have made a mistake caring about a "look" :(Quote:
And if I were you, I wouldn't care to much for looks, I would look for performance.
I can't confirm that, for me this WB is not engineered good enough, it has significant problems. "Performance" means everything combined - temperatures, restrictions, fitting, reliability, etc.Quote:
I know the EK performs very well, as EK makes EXCELLENT blocks, and has done for the past years and more years to come.
True, that's why I would not buy such WBs anymore.Quote:
It's not about LOOKS, it's about PERFORMANCE. <Period.
Send to me a PM and I will issue an invoice through PayPal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Carey
Of course, I can re-engineer the fixing using some non-conductive washers and creating a fitting for the WB.
Does anyone know when EVGA WBs will be available? They take pre-orders now, but I don't want to wait again like a month.
I'm almost positive on their website it says they're shipping on the 14th or 15th
Thanks, I can wait 10 days :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aspire.comptech
Gah, someone needs to make something to cover up that huge hole in the PCB
It looks awful
put one of these in between the cards :D
http://www.urbanjunkie.co.uk/shopima...ball%20350.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cupcake
I am actually using two of those in a sponsored build I am in teh middle of . . .
google cherry x . . .
gmcg
i understand what you're saying and i agree that finish and flatness combined give best results
why don't you polish the face of the block yourself on a piece of glass or something
it won't be that hard just use 300-600-800 grit paper and you're done
Yes, Sir! Actually I did it already using a brass polish. It took a bit more time, but the polished surface is still perfectly flat as it was before - I can barely see the rest of machine traces on the surface and they are equal everywhere. I would say I changed from +/-100 micron surface quality to like +/-10 micron, may be a bit more, but not much.Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
Also I went today to a local ace hardware store , bought some nylon spacers, made and installed the required ones, so for now I am quite sure that the water block will not move while PCBs are bowed just a little bit. I have found a way to support it's weight also, therefore I've decided to change my mind and don't want to sell it anymore, first of all because I am really tired to wait and wait and want to finish my rig, second because the water block is quite good in results, as we can see on the pictures above, and third because it is non-restrictive (I can say that), the last point is pretty important for me using D5 instead of DDC2.
I didn't get a PM from Australia anyway ;)
P.S. Some pictures will be posted a bit later.
Usually plasma bulb is driven by 35kHz 2-5kV AC ... and it is a transmitter.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
I personally don't want to have a source of such interference in my PC, period ...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plasma_lamp
I am sorry for off-top here in this thread.Quote:
One should be careful when placing electronic devices (such as computer mice) near or upon the plasma lamp: not only may the glass become hot, but the high voltage may place a substantial static charge on the device, even through a protective plastic casing. The radio frequency field produced by plasma lamps can interfere with the operation of touch pads used on laptop computers, digital audio players, and other similar devices. Some types can radiate sufficient RFI to interfere with telephones several feet away.
PM's what do you mean?Quote:
Originally Posted by gmcg
He was referring to Carey's postQuote:
I'll buy it off you I'm in Australia though, so postage might be a little pricey...
RLM.