Check malves' site.
http://malvescorner.com/is7.htm
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Check malves' site.
http://malvescorner.com/is7.htm
Remove R567. :)
I did the mod and its working great! Thanks a lot!:toast:
Well the vr broke and and was electricity was flowing through it without any resistance. While I was trying to hook up a different vr i hit the 10 ohm resistor and it came off along with the soldering points. There is a small wire coming out of one end now and only a little metal point out of the other. Are there any other places i can solder the points together at. I heard that one end leads to pin 4. Does the other end lead to one of the mosfets?
One of the pads should be ground. The other should be a leg of the winbond chip. Ohm out which one is ground, and go from there.
Are you sure one side is to ground? If so then what is the point of using two resisitors since each of them hook into ground.
I'm not following you. You removed R567, put the vr in place of the 2 sides of R567?
Which way did you do the mod? I know there are a few methods out there.
I used hipro5's method with the 10 ohm resistor in where the old resitor used to be and a vr coming off of the 10 ohm resistor to ground.
I was think i could connect it to the mosfet but the mosfets and pin 4 on my mother board but the mosfets are a little bit different on my board then on the ic7 so im not sure which mosfet its connected to. I cant get another picture of it becuase my digital cam cant pick up that close. Malves can you take a look at it maybe.
btw heres hipro's method http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...806#post212806
I managed to unsolder R50 for the IC7 dram volt mod, upon attemp to solder on a 390 ohm resistor in its place I angled the resistor next to R50(the one on it right), upon trying to rectify it's position I knocked it off and its lost : (
Again it is the resistor straight up from the winbond chip and to the right of R50.
I hope I didn't fubar it, I used a wick to soak up the soulder on both resistor joint pads to clean up the mess.
No more 3am attempts at soldering when sick.
Anyone knowledgable on how to rectify this, please let me know what I can do, if I knew the ohmage of the lost resistor I could solder it back on after a trip to radioshack or fry's.
"Any idea what ohm resistor it is, so I can replace it ASAP?"
R50 is a 0 ohms resistor. just bridge the 2 pads with solder or something
The resistor next to R50 isn't 0 ohm though, and thats what I lost. I need to know the ohmage on it so I can replace it. In Hipro's pic it is the one right below R50:
http://www.pctech.gr/hipro5/photos/A...7/Modds/06.jpg
When you all talk about the contact pad, what exactly are you referring to, is it just the excess solder on the contact point?
I am hoping someones' expertise can save me here, I don't want to go buy another IC7.
MC64 is the resistor below R50. This is what is removed on the max3 for vmem mod. If the circuitry is the same which I think it is, as long as something is in place between the left side of r50 or mc64 and ground it should be fine. Left side of R50 or MC64 should go to the same pin on the windbond chip.
Did you use the wick on the solder pads where the resistors were?
If you look at the pic in my above post, its the spot right below the R50, or directly south of it. In the pic it has part of the yellow box drawn in over it.
Yah I did use the wick to pick up the solder, the solder had melted and was bridging the positive and ground lead on each spot. I could melt a tiny bit of solder on each lead head to replace the original pad?
I would do this before you try to go any further. Right sides should ohm out to any ground on the board. Left sides should ohm out to one the the legs of the winbond chip. I think 3 or 4, if left side doesn't ohm out to any leg of the windbond chip you will have to solder directly to one of the legs of the winbond chip to get the vmem back.Quote:
Originally posted by anomaly2200
I could melt a tiny bit of solder on each lead head to replace the original pad?
I'll probably start a new thread but I"ll tag along here also. I used MadCat1968s mod guide from the Abit forums to construct this circuit: http://home.columbus.rr.com/jsemler/...tion_Guide.htm
Then, I installed it like this (sort of): http://home.columbus.rr.com/jsemler/...tion_Guide.htm
To make a long story short, during testing, I arced a component in the circuit and got a short. The worst of the damage is that the left solder pad for the VBT Sense attachment point at MC50 (the side of MC50 closest to the Winbond chip) came off. I can see the TINY remnants of 2 portions of trace but I don't think it is enough to solder to.
So, can anyone tell me an alternate point at which to solder the VBT Sense lead to the left (non-ground) side of MC50 as needed for this mod? I will keep scouring this thread and others but I cannot see the answer yet. Of course, that may be due to all the smoke in the air.
Thanks in advance. smokemike (the artist formerly known as specmike)
Top pad or left pad closest to windbond chip, ohms out to the 7th leg of the winbond chip bottom side closest to the MC50. I can't find any where else that that pad ohms out to.Quote:
Originally posted by specmike
I'll probably start a new thread but I"ll tag along here also. I used MadCat1968s mod guide from the Abit forums to construct this circuit: http://home.columbus.rr.com/jsemler/...tion_Guide.htm
Then, I installed it like this (sort of): http://home.columbus.rr.com/jsemler/...tion_Guide.htm
To make a long story short, during testing, I arced a component in the circuit and got a short. The worst of the damage is that the left solder pad for the VBT Sense attachment point at MC50 (the side of MC50 closest to the Winbond chip) came off. I can see the TINY remnants of 2 portions of trace but I don't think it is enough to solder to.
So, can anyone tell me an alternate point at which to solder the VBT Sense lead to the left (non-ground) side of MC50 as needed for this mod? I will keep scouring this thread and others but I cannot see the answer yet. Of course, that may be due to all the smoke in the air.
Thanks in advance. smokemike (the artist formerly known as specmike)
So what type of component is the MC64, your saying I can just bridge the gap between the ground and positive lead on it? Remember I lost the MC64 peice, there isnt anything there now.Quote:
Originally posted by oc-rookie
MC64 is the resistor below R50. This is what is removed on the max3 for vmem mod. If the circuitry is the same which I think it is, as long as something is in place between the left side of r50 or mc64 and ground it should be fine. Left side of R50 or MC64 should go to the same pin on the windbond chip.
Did you use the wick on the solder pads where the resistors were?
For a secondary question, why do I need to ground to the winbond chip if I recondstruct the pads under the R50 and MC64 with a bit of solder?
Thanks for all the help so far.
MC64 is a cap not a resistor. AFAIK, Abit started removing those caps on the MAX3 boards, to help stabilize vdimm - but don't know if this true.
I don't think it would be a problem not having that cap in place.
Aye I fixed it, the MC64 removal is actaully a stablization for the vdimm, unfortunatley the vtt voltage is still way undervolted past 2.8 volts. I am looking to do Madcat's Mod.
Any chance you can make the circuit , Madcat1968 just curious what you would charge for it, I'm a decent solder, but your expertise in making it amounts to alot. Let me know bud.
I just got my original IS7 that i did a messed up mod "killed the Pads" on and had to solder to the winbond "leg 4" on page 2 of this guide.
One testing with my good BH-5's the Dam thing give's me better mem scores than my IC7 just testing on Air. Out with the IC7.
This was my first and best 865/875 board. All the new 865's Pat or Gat is just not there anymore. Intel must've figured a way to finally diable.
I've had 2 max3's and i'll take a plain jane, IS7 or IC7 "vmodded" over a Max 3 anyday.
I got a 2.4 prescott to play with about 15 mintutes ago FEDEX.