You know that p95 blend is not maxing out the temps.
Try LinX AVX max memory and then :)
You know that p95 blend is not maxing out the temps.
Try LinX AVX max memory and then :)
I know that is why I'm doing Prime instead of LinX for the initial test.
As of this moment LinX gives me 95c in 1.2 sec. lol
But I'm in the process of lowering the temp.
And last night I made it about 8-10c lower and kept stable for 30min or so. (didn't have enough time, it was late last night night...)
I'll try some more later tonight and I think I can get there and try LinX if it's successful after prime run.
Ket appreciate the effort ;) You've done plenty for ASRock owners. Again it really doesn't bother me since I don't run a stock system anyhow. The current hardware does quite a nice job. But for someone who plugs & plays on a default/stock system, it will effect them. Especially if they compare it to another competing board at default settings. I also asked the 3rd person I know with the same board to perform the same test. I'll report back my finding on that also.
Brian
Update. The third guy I spoke of also had the same results. He is also using v1.80 UEFI and loaded all default settings and a 2500K.
I'm with 2600K 1.4v for 4.8GHz and it reaches 85c with LinX and Megahalems revB with CM Excalibur x1.
So basiclly good look with that kind of voltage.
So what was it.
Is 1.9BIOS not OK. and you are going back to 1.8 ?
As I said on the previous post, I couldn't actually make the temp down to 85c but I got it down to 87c with 1600 Ram speed.
But I got to 5.0 with 1866, though.
I ran HCI memtest and tested all Ram. (7GB+)
Also showing other voltage settings on the screenshots.
This is ONLY 1hour of Prime95 Blend test btw.
But as you can see... there is still NO WAY to run IBT nor LinX w/AVX....
It'll probably give me :explode2: in 4 sec.... -_-
i5 5.0 @ 1.464(Load) 1866 9-10-9-28 1T @ 1.650
Max temp @ 92c :shock2:
http://preview.filesonic.com/img/27/....thumbnail.jpghttp://preview.filesonic.com/img/0d/....thumbnail.jpghttp://preview.filesonic.com/img/f9/....thumbnail.jpg
I got my RAM to run 1600 stable with a bit lower voltage and temp.
Of course it's still hot but I'm NOT even thinking about running this 24/7...
i5 5.0@ 1.464(Load) 1600 8-8-8-24 1T @ 1.620
Max temp @ 87c :eh:
http://preview.filesonic.com/img/f9/....thumbnail.jpghttp://preview.filesonic.com/img/51/....thumbnail.jpg
I don't think you need 1,832V on CPU PLL Voltage. Default value on ASRock mobos is too much. 1,709V will be ok as it has no reall impact on CPU stability even way above 5GHz.
BR,
I thought so in the first place.
But No. I NEED 1.832V. I've tested every voltage setting and this is the lowest that I can put on all the voltages.
(I've tested many times I'm 100% positive about this.)
I've noted before but somehow this board (or my particular chip) needs 1.832 and even one notch below gives me BSOD (above 4.8GHz)
Lots of other MB set up, and people even put it at 1.709v (in fact, at 4.6 w/1600 RAM, I can set it at 1.709) and won't affect the stability but mine does affect big time.
Every system works differently I guess.
Anyway, it is surprising that my 5 year old 4 rail x 18 amps 700w OCZ PSU still works like a charm with modern set up.
As long as I keep it single GPU, 700W is enough I guess even with 8 fans and 4HDD.
Tunagoblin,
I would really appreciate if you could share your UEFI settings for 4,8 and 5,0 ghz
I've tried many different combinations of settings and I can't get any real stability past 4,5 ghz.
Thanks
As we all know, no systems work the same way.
So they are going to be just the reference.
Even though I can get to 5.0, it's just for the sake of "It can get there."
So by any means, this isn't for realistic use for me since it gets too hot.
4.8 is stable with HCI memtest, LinX (All, 3mb 20+ runs), Prime95 (22hours).
Also I manually put "additional turbo voltage" to +0.004.
It compensates for vdrop and voltage won't keep moving around or going higher like when it's set to "Auto".
Seems like this and LLC @ level2 is working well together for my system.
It makes the idle voltage higher since I'm on fixed voltage.
Also the additional turbo voltage makes the idle voltage a bit higher.
Which actually prevents getting too much of vdroop when intensive load.
But at the same time, LLC is there to prevent any unwanted voltage spike damaging the chip.
So finding the good combination I guess...
As for the CPU advanced setting and RAM timings setting, both 4.8 and 5.0 are the same so I only put 1 of each.
Attachment 118069
RAM Settings
Attachment 118066
Attachment 118067
4.8GHz @ 1.385 (UEFI) 1.384 (Load)
1866 9-10-9-28 1T @ 1.575 (1.560 in the pic but I need 1.575)
Attachment 118070
Attachment 118071
Attachment 118072
5.0GHz @ 1.470 (UEFI) 1.464 (Load)
1866 9-10-9-28 1T @ 1.575
Attachment 118074
Attachment 118075
Attachment 118068
These are mine 5GHz settings:
http://minus.com/mvbFnm7
Chips are doing very well under water.
Mine's now under Thermochill 240 with 2xGT1850 fans pull
And it's doing fine @5GHz 1.44v for security (1.425 stable ... but for an hour or so) an it reaches 65 max with AVX
Soon screenshots... as my HDD got stolen from my girlfriend for her project... so the PC is not functioning right now except for Ubuntu tests :)
Will test soon more.
Got my patriots from default 1.65v down to 1.5v with tighten timings 9-10-9-24... yes :)
A guy from Overclock.net told me my RAM shouldn't need 1.65v to run 1866@5.0GHz.
Since he had the exact same RAM running 1.50v with same timing as mine, 9-10-9-28 1T.
I tried it it 1.50 with same timings and it made HCImemtest.:up:
Also done some LinX run @4.8GHz and gave me constant healthy 130+GFlops on all RAM.
So I guess I was overvolting the RAM....
Now it made my temp go down about 3,4c.:clap:
I'll do Prime run next.
*Sorry...forgot to open the most important tab, Memory tab... but the timings are the same..
http://preview.filesonic.com/img/74/69/f0/2396411.jpg
I know. I've been doing that up to 4.8GHz. Since at 5GHz, as I said on the post, My CPU gets to 98c with LinX w/AVX.
That is why I can't run it at 5.0 :(
I was hoping to make my RAM run lower voltage but Prime95 is giving me problem...
Even all the ram passed fine with HCImemest.
Bringing up VTT one notch gave me worse.
I'm turning up VRAM voltage back up now till I get no BSOD.
see if it's really the RAM giving me BSOD...
Since it passes fine with 1.650v.
You could try relaxing tRRD from 6>7, and tFAW from 28>33. Shouldn't have any noticable performance impact, just help get high RAM clocks stable with lower voltage.
Cool :up:
I'll try that after I'm finding out what the minimum voltage to run this RAM at the timings I have.
It'll be a good comparison.
I guess my RAM is mediocre also.
Some people can run the same RAM at 1866@1.5v@5GHz+.
Gee... I guess I have to get into those other RAM timings....
Thanks Ket!
Update:
So I found that I need at least 1.590 dram voltage to make at least 1hr prime stable.
It made my max temp down 4c :yepp: or say... a bit better than 92c... :(
Now I'll try what Ket told me and see h ow that goes.
http://www.overclock.net/attachments...66-1.590-prime
Try lowering VTT with 1.5v
1.051 probably.
And check that again.
I remember one lower gave me BSOD before but I'll try with the new dram voltage.
* yup, I just tried it and gave me BSOD in 3 min.
Just in case I tried it with one below 1.116 and gave me BSOD, too.
"tRRD from 6>7, and tFAW from 28>33" gave me one notch down on DRAM voltage.
At least one hour prime stable with 1.575v. Anything lower will help at this point.
So I guess I need VTT=1.116, DRAM=1.575 to get 5GHz 1866.
I'll update the UEFI settings, too.
http://preview.filesonic.com/img/46/52/2a/2400091.jpg
http://preview.filesonic.com/img/d6/85/6b/2400241.jpg
I got it up to 5.4GHz@1.584 last night...Of course it is far from stable...nor I'm trying to..
After this, windows crashed and took me while to get it back so I'm not doing this any higher...
http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/banner/1922179.png
btw, look at this guy....it is called suicide run :zombie:
http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/banner/1094061.png
Also here is the healthy GFlops I'm getting on LinX w/AVX at 4.8GHz 1866. Of course with unhealthy temp...But hey...It's AVX.
During and after the test.
Man you are killing your chip soon :)
How's the ambient temp around you :)
I found the most important setting for OC.
Turn AC to "High" :)
My AC is close to my comp so the ambient stays pretty cool even it's blasting hot out side.
My 24/7 is @ 4.8 so it'll be fine.
Idles at 32~40c at atm. IBT/LinX w/AVX is the only app that gives me 80c+.
Donth bother about RAM with high frequency and tight timmings:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4503/s...-the-best-ddr3
Yeah, XBit shows this too. :)
I backed it down at stock RAM timings at 5.0 since I really wanted to run LinX somehow.
I made the 1024 run but anything higher will still gives me BSOD so I gave up...
Can't make it under 90c anyway... time to stop now..
Sorry I'm almost done lol. But if it's useless then just skip. It's only been a page or 2, isn't it?
Also some people can compare the BIOS, LinX score, etc.
Just ignore me if you don't wanna see, please. Easy enough, right?
If nothing else, all the settings you posted up Tuna should stop everybody asking me what timings / settings / voltage to use :p: I'll say it for the last time though, every system is different and even guide settings could be way off. A OC which should be easy to reach with a minimum of fiddling and still give good performance is;
4.5GHz CPU (around 1.33v on average)
1866MHz RAM (timings and voltage vary depending on your RAM) if you do a lot of archiving or things along those lines faster memory will shave a decent time off archiving times.
IGPU: Probably not a good idea to mess with OCing the IGPU if you use it, its strength is video encoding and thats it.
I've noticed that, though.
For average SB, about 4.5~4.6 is still easy to get and gives you great gain for not so much of vcore/heat.
But after that you need lots of voltage not just the vcore and also gives you not much of real world gain.
3.3~4.5 is easy to get and gives you lots of performance gain, 4.6~5.0 gets harder to make it stable also needs lots of voltage/heat with minimum gain.
Many apologies, this is OT but this forum is alive and kickin' with enthusiastic people, whereas the proper places to ask are a bit moribund.
I bought my Xonar D2/PM a few years ago and have loved it ever since.
Now, though, I've been getting into Blurays. My music collection is still all flac and unaffected, but decoding DTS/MA or TrueHD are things the Xonar can't do.
How am I best to arrange things? The onboard sound chips are at least a little better now, and Intel in particular seem to be pushing the quality of their audio.
I'm quite happy with a stereo or a stereo + centre system, and have some nice Dittons and an old Yamaha amp, and aren't so interested in surround for the time being, so I need something that will downmix and do a good job of it. Also, I can't afford a decent receiver.
Is my beloved Xonar obsolete? The whole PCI bus is rapidly disappearing, and, on Intel systems at least, take up valuable PCIe lanes.
The Xonar driver situation hasn't changed much either it seems, some very dedicated and very talented people giving us drivers. But not Asus.
So, I'm wondering if there'd be any tangible benefit in using the Xonar? I know even on the crappy machine I'm writing this on that a plain old Audigy made a big difference.
Apologies again for being OT
Rob
You would be better off asking most of those questions in the audio forum here on XS. From a purely hardware based level though, onboard audio with all the equalizer tweaking in the world still can't hold a candle to a good dedicated audio card such as the Xonar. Slap as many fancy badges as you want onto onboard audio CODECs, they are still just that - onboard audio CODECs. If you haven't tried them already, you could give the uni xonar drivers a go. I use them with my DX 7.1 and they are very good indeed :yepp:
Any ideas what the dr debug code "00" means? Is the board dead? Oh yeah, I've stupidly bent some pins and one pin particularly is loose. :(
My motherboard died last weekend. Decided to jump on the i5 2500K bandwagon with this board.
4.5ghz with simply adjusting the multiplier. OCCT stable for 1 hour so far. :D
Overclocking my Q6600 was so much harder than this.
I would need to see a picture, but yep, board is likely toast.
Yeah guys, it is toast. :( I can't even RMA this now-paperweight. Got an Asus Maximus IV Gene-z now but my wallet is hurting.
Be aware of the new Asrock XfastLan software which made my internet soooooo slow..
Maybe I wasn't set it up right but gave me 0.03mbps upload and 0.9mbps download no matter what I did.
Uninstalled it and the speed came back.
Cannot install THX TruStudio pro driver.
Or if I can - it won;t recognize any device?! Any help ?
Ket- what is the sequence for the full CMOS Clear again. I want to flash to the latest BIOS and want to make sure that it is flashed/cleared 100%.
I know its something like this but I am missing the part with loading defaults etc
Set CMOS jumper to "clear"
Remove CMOS battery
Remove PSU cord
Press power button 2-3 times (discharges capacitors)
Wait 1 min
So installed some 2 x4gb gskill blue ripX i installed it but it only runs xmp profile doesnt wanna overclock at all just locks up and gives me error 45 on the little lcd i then have to reset bios. im wondering if i should do a full bios reset cause all i did was reset to deafults then turned comp off installed mem hit the clear cmos button again and went into bios were it was id fine. Still thogh i have tried 8-9-8 and 9-10-9 at 1.5 and 1.65 and neither lets me overclock reboots and gives the error 45 on the onboard lcd
Found this http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/28...ty-mobo-issues
Seems im not the only one having the problems could it be a bad kit of ram?? because i dont get that code with my other gskill ram and i can overclock it without it happening as well. but for the cl 8 blue gskill its not likng manual settings like if i were to just reboot now and just change it to 2133 and put the voltage on 1.65 it will reboot give me the 45 error or if im lucky it will boot but hang when loading windows
Pretty much word for what some of the post in that link is whats going on
What kit exactly are they?!
Hey guys,
For anyone of you having problems with some specific USB3.0 devices connected to Etron Controller, there is a new driver posted few days ago:
http://www.pctreiber.net/2011/etront...0104-whql.html
Chipset: Etron EJ168 USB3.0 Controller
Driver Version: 1.00.0000.0104 WHQL
Driver Date: 25.07.2011
It helped with transfers from my A-Data CH11 USB3.0 1TB external drive - now I don't have any slowdowns/pauses when moving large portions of data and performance is a little better.
Just letting you know, maybe somebody had similar problems.
-----------------------
Installation info (since it is not automated installer):
1. Go to Device Manager -> Universal Serial Bus Controllers -> Right click on "Etron USB 3.0 Extensible Host Controller" and select "Update Driver Software". After that point to folder where you have your driver unpacked, choose either 32 or 64bit, corresponding to your system and install the driver.
2. Repeat the same steps for "Etron USB 3.0 Extensible Root Hub".
3. Computer restart might be required.
EtronTech USB3 Treiber (EJ168) 1.00.0000.0104 WHQL
http://www.pctreiber.net/2011/etront...0104-whql.html
Thats very strange, I'll try to find some time to check that.
I'll need more info than that. :p:
Load UEFI defaults, save & exit
Flash from pure DOS via a bootable USB stick
After the flash, power down
Set CMOS jumper to "Clear"
Remove CMOS battery
Remove power cord from PSU
Press power button 2-3 times (discharges capacitors)
wait 1 min
Thats sounds like a bad kit of RAM or just a kit that doesn't like to OC to me.
Yea I thought this as well im gonna advance rma them from new egg n see whats going on cause they dont act right at all. I cant even leave it on auto because it will still show error 45 on the debud lcd.. So thank you ket for reasuring me that my thoughts were correct and i need to rma the ram.
NP :up: We all have those times where a outside opinion is useful to have, even me ;)
I will make a youtube video to show you the THX problem.
@ Ket, Did they make it so if you do a battery pull bios reset that it doesnt erase your profiles? because if not i dont think my bios is resetting i pull bat wait a min or so push the power button and put it together but it still shows my profiles so.... basicly if they didnt make it that way then my bios isnt resetting and could be causing the memory error ??
Got my suicide run up to 5.508GHz @1.64
SuperPi 1M @ 6.860s
I know I'll see some sparkle and smoke coming up from my comp soon since I'm on air lol.
But this is as close to the breaking point I think....
Took me while to get x55 working.
Found out a couple of interesting stuff.
"PLL Overvoltage" seems to be frequency dependent.
(been talking about this at overclock.net)
Many says it needs to be on after 4.6~4.7 range.
But that is not true.
I personally don't need it till 5.2GHz. Also some people reported that you only need it on certain frequencies.
Means you might need it at 4.8 but not needed at 5.0.
It acts different on each systems.
Very strange but that's how it works.
Also turning "Spread Spectrum" on makes the load voltage a bit lower.
Gives you a bit more vdroop. and as we know, it sets your bclk to 99.8.
Some how I needed this to be ON at 5.4 above or windows won't boot even pumping more vcore.
And surprising thing is that I get 2 to 4 GFlops better LinX score than I set it OFF (bclk at 100).
At 5.0GHz or more, AsRock board really likes default (auto) value of CPU PLL voltage @ 1.832.
Other MB, some people can turn it down to 1.709 without any problems but not mine.
http://valid.canardpc.com/cache/banner/1938451.png
http://preview.filesonic.com/img/7f/f0/09/2619461.jpg
Tuna do you know if resetting the bios from the jumper/bat will erase your OC profiles cause last i knew it did and if i have tried it 3 times and it still doestn erase the profiles so i wonder if i have a corrupt bios or something like that
I can tell you mine does not lose the profiles unless you change the BIOS version.
even if you save the profiles in axtu you cant restore in another uefi version.. ;/
So i found this hope it helps other people I have advance RMA from new egg will be here monday and i will let everyone know if it fixed the problem. This is what i found on asrock website.
Please refer to below form for the beep code and debug code of AMI UEFI BIOS.
Condition Beeps Code Debug Code
Normal 1 short beep after POST
With goodnight LED enabled, debug code will disappear
after the beep.
Bad CPU No beep No debug code
Bad memory No beep 45
Without memory 3 long beeps 53
Without CPU No beep(No Power) No debug code
Without VGA card 5 long beeps Beeps at”d6”, then show “0d”
New beta UEFI for Pro3 that fix disappearing LLC options:
http://www.pctreiber.net/forum/dlatt...n_14970.0.html
UEFI profiles are preserved with a full reset, all other settings are cleared.
You need this thread for that > http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...xtreme4-thread
What P67 Pro3 and "Asrock Z68 Gen3 Extreme7 & Extreme4 thread " have in common? Enlighten me.
Its for sake of ease, P67 owners have their thread, Z68 owners have their thread, and Gen3 owners have their thread. It keeps any board specific problems that may be found in their own category so users don't start getting confused with which board has what problem.
Which is why the P67 thread exists, any Pro3 owners that have posted with issues have been dealt with, if there are other issues with the Pro3 people need to tell me about them because A: Asrock don't send me every single board to test myself and B: I don't have a crystal ball :p:
I think you missed drinking some coffee this morning Ket. The link that radier posted is for a *P67 Pro3*. Note the title of the thread: "Extreme 6 & Pro3 owners welcome"
New UEFI 2.0 for P67 Extreme4. Download available at official site:
http://www.asrock.com/mb/download.as...xtreme4&o=BIOS
Quote:
Update BIOS code for NVM.
I wish ASRock would put update notes/logs in with their BIOS updates
Hello Everybody :)
For people that like to have most current drivers for their motherboards I've prepared a compilation for ASRock P67 Extreme4. This drivers are intended for all devices integrated with motherboard and will work for Windows XP/Vista/7 (32 and 64bit). For Intel and Marvell controllers you will also find TXT mode drivers. Those are the latest drivers that I was able to find to this date and everyone of them is newer than what's available on ASRock page.
Package contains:
- Etron EJ168 USB 3.0 Host Controller Driver 1.00.0000.0104
- Intel Management Engine Interface Driver 7.1.14.1107
- Intel Rapid Storage Technology 10.6.0.1022
- Marvell SATA3 MV9xxx AHCI Controller Driver 1.2.0.1006
- Realtek HD Audio Driver 2.63
- Realtek LAN Vista 6.249
- Realtek LAN WinXP 5.788
- Realtek LAN Win7 7.046
- Intel Chipset Device Software 9.2.3.1016
You need to download only one file from hosting site that you prefer (packaged with 7zip):
MEGAUPLOAD
HOTFILE
FILESERVE
I appreciate the effort with the driver update CoreyPL. However, what's going on with the Realtek HD Audio Driver 2.63? I'm running the 2.51 driver and it has a sound effects tab that has a graphic equalizer and other sound effect presets. I loaded the 2.63 driver and the sound effects tab was gone. I looked around the driver for a button and no luck. I reloaded the 2.51 driver to get the sound effects tab back. Anyone else notice this?
Hello,
I have no problems with "Sound effects" tab running 2.63:
http://images35.fotosik.pl/853/13e40f2434874c25.jpg
In basic mode there are predefined equalizer settings. If I want to go to manual settings, I just click the icon "Change to graphic EQ" and I have EQ with traditional sliders. I have no idea why this is not showing for you. Maybe try full uninstall of the driver, then new installation. Or maybe Driver Sweeper will help?
Corey,
Thanks for the screenshot. When I installed the 2.63, the sound effects tab never loaded. I just loaded the 2.63 over the older driver. Maybe that had something to do with it!? I didn't think to uninstall the Realtek chip and do a thorough cleaning before installing the newer driver. The driver install indicated that it would uninstall the older driver first, then install the newer driver. I'm too used to Creative's method of installing drivers over older drivers. That method seemed to work best with Creative's drivers.
I have been liking the onboard sound so far. Comparing to my X-Fi Xtreme Music, the X-Fi has a bit more separation in sound. However the Realtek onboard is very close. I haven't used on board sound since the NF2 days with nVidia's sound solution. Its a toss between the X-Fi & the onboard. I may run both for a bit for comparison.
Question about fan control and settings. In UEFI, what should I set the fans to if I want to use a Windows utility to control them? Auto, full on, or manual? I'm guessing either auto or full on. Also, how is the AsRock utility for fan control? It seems I can set a temp threshold and have it respond accordingly. Does that work for 3 pin fans as well, or just the PWM fans? Is the utility any good?
Manual says to use the top most PCIe spot for single card, and top two for 2 card setups. Is it okay to use the middle one for a single card setup, and first and third for a 2 card?
Bit-Tech review from near launch said the board had poor SATA 6.0 speeds. 10%-20% slower than the Asus Barefoot. Is that still the case?
Thanks for the help, and the wonderful thread!
To set the fans using a tool in windows, you can choose either the 'full on' or manual setting. By comparison, the 'manual' setting will make whichever fan speed you set in UEFI the maximum fan speed you can select using a windows utility. The 'full on' setting will allow the utility to set the fan speed to the highest possible setting. In my experience, speedfan is one of the best available, though it's probably going to take some time to figure out how it works.
From my experience, all of the fan headers on the motherboard are controllable with software except for the 3-pin Power fan connector that's next to the 12v atx power connector in the top-left part of the board.
For the PCI-E slots, don't use the bottom one unless you are installing a 3rd graphics card into your system. It runs 4 times slower then the other two slots. As for the SATA 6.0 speeds, i really doubt that it is generically 10% slower then the Asus board. So no, its not the case.
Thanks for the answers. Sounds like the thing to do is leave the fans at Full On and control them in Windows for performance/quiet.
Here's the bit-tech review I was talking about. Only place I've found that even tests SATA speeds, let alone notes a performance delta
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/mot...eme-4-review/5
Asrock Instant Boot
Does this software app enable one to get around the resume from sleep bug that seems to plague the P67 chipset?
Is anyone using this app successfully with an overclocked CPU?
Hi Ket,
Forgive my ignorance (new to this forum and Extreme4), but what is the Intel PCH Driver v9.2.0.1030 for (on your updated drivers page)? I ask, because ASRock doesn't list this as one of their official drivers?
Also, someone recently posted the steps to clearing the Extreme4's CMOS (below). Other than electrically discharging the capacitors, is the "Clear CMOS" button on the motherboard sufficient to clear it?
Steps to clearing CMOS
1. Load UEFI defaults, save and exit.
2. Flash from pure DOS via a bootable USB stick.
3. After the flash, power down.
4. Set CMOS jumper to "Clear".
5. Remove CMOS battery.
6. Remove power cord from PSU.
7. Press power button two to three times (discharges capacitors).
8. Wait one minute.
Also, (and I know I'm going out on a limb here), I realize ASRock states that: "We don't recommend users to update BIOS while the system is running well." But is there any way that ASRock would be willing to take a closer look at the content of their UEFI code since 1.70?
I ask because, for some reason, after updating to either 1.90 or 2.00, my Extreme4 crashes within seconds of restarting Win7 with a deadly BSOD Stop Error, rendering the boot table of my HDD inoperable until I reinstall Windows (even attempts to restore Windows with a full system image cannot repair it). The flashing process itself appears to work fine--no errors reported (1.90 via Instant Flash method and 2.00 via Windows method).
This presents a dilemma for some of us users as newer drivers for the Extreme4 (undoubtedly intended to fix bugs, add features, and improve performance) such as Intel Rapid Storage Technology v.10.6.0.1002 requires flashing to UEFI 1.90 or later.
I know for a fact that there is nothing technically wrong with my hardware. I have thoroughly checked my RAM, error-checked my hard drive, etc. and seeing as everything runs fine under UEFI 1.70, makes me seriously question the content/changes of UEFI 1.90 and later.
I'm sure I'm not the only user who has run into this problem. My point in all this is to encourage ASRock engineering to take another look at their code for anything that could be causing these boot table crashes and preventing users from updating their drivers/PCs.
Greg
ASRock P67 Extreme4 (B3) in XPS 630i case | UEFI 1.70 | Core i5 2500K @ 3.3GHz | CM Hyper 212 Plus | Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1 | 8GB CORSAIR DDR3 Vengeance 1600MHz | BFG Tech OCE GTX 275 896MB | ViewSonic VX1940w 19" LCD | WD Caviar Black 500GB SATA-3 | WD Caviar Blue 500GB SATA-2 | Dual x16 DVD-DL | ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 | CORSAIR 850HX 850W | Microsoft Sidewinder X3
UEFI 2.00 works just fine.
In the last days of June I have send my B2 Extreme4 for RMA to recive new B3 revision. Then I went abroad for more than one and a half month. Today I have rebuild my PC. Just after start i have updated UEFI to the latest 2.00 version. Then I have set all my old settings/OC etc. started my OS without formating. Everything works like a charm. I have also bought Crucial m4 SSD drive and I will make a clean OS install tomorrow.
@ GregoryDonner
I have flashed from 1.70 -> 1.90 -> 2.0 on the same windows 7 install with no issue.
Is it possible when you flashed the bios it reset your storage options if you had it set to something other than default? I know i've run into that issue in the past with other boards. Had the SATA emulation set to IDE and then after flashing the bios it reset to default RAID. Switching it back to IDE solved the BSOD without needing to re-install windows.
You have a point there; however, my SATA3 boot drive is on the first SATA3 port (using the Marvell SATA3 AHCI drivers), so while this seems like the most likely answer, I've always set my SATA and SATA3 modes to AHCI in the newly-flashed UEFI before booting into Windows (as required), so it makes no sense as to why the crash?
The BSOD happens so fast that it's difficult to catch (screenshot and video links of the crash below):
http://www.gregdonner.org/temp/uefi_crash.png (photo)
http://www.gregdonner.org/temp/uefi_crash.avi (video)
I'd like to think that somehow this is related to the MS fix (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/922976), but it makes no sense why, only under new UEFIs, it's not finding and booting from either the already installed Windows 7 or Marvell SATA3 drivers?
Even ASRock doesn't recommend using Marvell controller for booting. Try connecting your hard drive to Intel controller. From the movie I would say that controller settings are different. Try switching to IDE mode and see if it helps. Then apply regfix for activating AHCI, reset computer, go to UEFI, change controller to AHCI and then boot to Windows. It may be because ROM has changed in recent UEFI and now the drivers are not working so good. Did you tried booting to safe mode and uninstalling/reinstalling drivers?
And what is the exact error code, because it is hard to read from picture. Is it 0x0000007B? If so, it either suggest controller mode error, or broken HDD.
Please forgive my extreme novice questions, but what are best practices for updating the drivers suite for the P67? Please tell me there are just inf files that can be updated in Device Manager, and not uninstalling exe/reinstall
I've always followed the model of uninstalling the old and installing the new. The Eltron USB 3.0 drivers are easily updated through device manager. Select update driver and then point it to the folder where you downloaded the lasted drivers. For everything else I usually uninstall - reboot - install new drivers.
Ok, I'll try to keep this short otherwise this post will turn into a Essay.
- PCH drivers are the "chipset" drivers, but as the "chipset" is not really a "set" anymore, its referred to as PCH (Platform Control Hub)
- Using the Clear CMOS button is generally sufficient, but the method I detailed is the cleanest way to do it, especially after a UEFI update.
- When you update the UEFI, setup defaults are automatically applied so if you are using other than setup default settings, you will need to change the settings accordingly.
- Theres nothing wrong with using the Marvell controller for boot devices, Asrock just don't recommend it mainly because it increases boot time.
- As for drivers, generally you should be fine as long as you used the latest available drivers when setting your system up at the time. The only driver I recommend to update whenever possible is the Etron driver.
Thanks for the answers! Another question, if you will indulge me. On my old Gigabyte board, most drivers were installed before/during Windows installation. Is that what is done for AsRock, or do most just run the executables once Windows boots?
After Windows installs you will need to install the LAN drivers that come on the driver disk. Once you have installed the LAN drivers grab the latest driver pack that is in this thread. Install and enjoy. The only drivers you will have to update through device manager are the Eltron 3.0 USB drivers.
So... 1. Install Windows 2. Install LAN drivers from driver disk. 3. Install latest driver pack you downloaded from a post earlier in this thread. 4. Install Windows updates. 5. Done.
Many thanks to everyone for their help--problem (finally!) solved.
Long story short: IDE mode didn't work (same crash after flashing to UEFI 2.00; BSOD was indeed 0x0000007B), so powered down, cleared the CMOS (hardware button), booted to the UEFI, setting SATA and SATA3 modes to AHCI, and reinstalled Windows. No glitches.
I've decided to forgo the Marvell drivers, and just use the Windows default. Am using the latest PCH, Intel Rapid Storage Technology, and Etron drivers. Again, many thanks to Ket and everyone for your advice and patience with me on this!
Quick question regarding RAM... (i tried to use the search function but it was too damn slow returning results)
I've just bought a Ripjaw 8 GB kit. (so 2*4Gb). I currently have a 4GB kit installed (2*2gb).
Can I expect any problems running 12GB & 1600Mhz? Both kits are CL9 1600mhz 1.5v. Or should I just go with 8GB and dispose of the 4GB kit. Obviously I'll be matching the size across the dual memory dimms.
Also will it be 4gb modules in mem position 1 & 3 or 2 & 4?
Hmm in answer to my own question and confirmation from Gskill forum.. we dont sell them in kits for no reason... Guess its going to be a crap shot if they play together..
12GB fully installed and playing nicely together so far. Knocked it down to 2T so there's an extremely minor drop in benches for the time being.
Goodbye page file! hah.
Who can explain this to me?
My back USB 3.0 ports works like a charm, but when I switch to the front ports it seems like my portable disk is working in USB 2.0 mode:
http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/3678/hdtachd.jpg
Latest Etron drivers, fresh OS installation.
Hello! I recently ordered the ASRock P67 Extreme4, and I set up the build last night. Specs as follows:
i5 2500k
ASRock P67 Extreme4 B3
EVGA 560Ti
2x ripsaw 4gb
etc
Everything appears to be working fine, except for the sound! I have tried multiple installs of windows, multiple output devices, both old and new versions of the Realtek HD Audio driver, tried it without the audio driver, tried uninstalling the front panel HD audio. All that comes out of either the frontal or rear audio jack is a very high pitched buzzing.
After spending all night researching a potential fix, I have found nothing so I figured I'd give you guys a shot to see if any of you had dealt with something similar before I ship this back to Newegg.