Just as a point of interest, in case anyone feels compelled to re due the TIM under the Heatpipe assembly ......Don't Bother! D.F.I has obviously been listening to overclockers and has done a superb job with applying the TIM with just the right amount used on every part with good quality TIM its completely not necessary to re due it!
I think he's referring to the copper plate that goes together with the transpiper.Quote:
Not sure of what you are asking here. Are you referring to the IHS? Intel IHS has been soldered on or very difficult to remove for quite some time now. Testing has shown naked vs IHS has not given much of a clock boost, if any.
This is of course when dealing with a properly lapped IHS. The same was true of my X2 4400 I'm currently running. After I popped the IHS off, I was getting substantially lower temps (7c lower using a storm), but I did not achieve a higher clock speed as a result. Granted the X2's are a completely different animal.
Is that what you were asking?
I think the setup is something along the lines of attaching the copperplate to the heatpipe setup over the mosfets. This overhangs and sits on top of the cpu. You then stick a heatsink/waterblock on top of that, sandwiching the copperplate between the heatsink and the cpu.
The idea in principal is that your heatsink/waterblock would not only cool the cpu, but also the mosfets, northbridge and south bridge via the connection to the heatpipe. Does that make sense?
RLM
Ahhhh yes. Thank you for the translation RLM. I had no idea what he was talking about. hehe. That being the case... I'd also be interested to hear about some testing results with that kind of a setup.
AH! Very nice to hear. Thanks for sharing this. Did you actually remove the heatpipe assembly yourself? Was it hard to do? I was wondering if taking it off, cleaning it and applying MX-2 would be a worth while thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
I had no clue there was additional power connectors on the board. Reminds me of my current Ultra-D in which I hated having additional power cables draped across my motherboard. I didn't see any of those in the pics for the P35 however.Quote:
Originally Posted by Strafe
I found it doesn't matter until you are on the edge of what your CPU, RAM board etc can do & then yes the extra floppy power connector helps with stability.Quote:
Originally Posted by Strafe
I always plug mine in as well as the 2 x 4 pin / 8 pin 12v connectors.
CN.
That's it exactly
excuse my poor english :D
i have a watercooled rig and have placed the sandwiched copperplate between my lapped cpu ihs and lapped waterblock ;)
i would like to know if someone as tried to put and remove this plate and what was the inpact on cpu temp ...
i'm now at 54°idle 59°full with my E6600 @ 3600 @ 1.55v with the copper plate ...
thank you for the translation RLM ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by RLM
Just set this board up last night. Used C-N's settings for reference (:up: ). Board was giving me all types of problems with my Patriot 9600 (2*1GB) ELK sticks. Kept rebooting and rebooting. Threw back in my trusty Patriot 8000 +XBL (2*1GB) sticks and all has been chugging along nicely! Don't know if its defective 9600 sticks, or just the board doesn't like them. They are brand new. Should have tried them on my IP35-PRO before disassembling. Right now I am running my Q6600 SLACR L727918 @ 3870 (430*9 1.55v) and its been rock solid. Using the Thermalright 120Xtreme and my temps are hovering around 45 degrees using CoreTemp. Memory is running at 1078. So far the board seems a bit snappier than the IP35-PRO which I was running this same processor on and memory (on the PRO though I could not go 1 FSB above 425). I just wish the other motherboard manufacture's would come out with something similar to the uGuru that Abit uses.
I've been using the included onboard sound as well. Getting tired of my X-Fi and Creative's drivers. Sound is really good with no noticeable hisses or pops.
For now, this board gets the :up: . Now gotta figure out whats up with these 9600 modules...
Anyone know if there's problems with Topower 750W psu?
TKS
Glad to hear you are up & running bud :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by SVTSnake
That makes 2 of us then ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by SVTSnake
CN :)
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/1890/11bb9.jpg
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5...zprime2zz1.jpg
using the copperplate/transpiper keep the PWM and NB area cool but no gain on my core's temps
PcCI2iminal was that result done by passive cooling ??
Did you find that was the only way to install the TRUE on this board? I am hoping to fit it with the fans facing side to side, not top to bottom. As well, did you find the copper plate adds a bit more mounting pressure to the TRUE considering it can be quite loose with stock installation? You are saying as well that you DID notice a lower temp on PWM with the copper plate but not the CPU?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cantankerous
Mine is mounted going to the rear of the case. I had no issues with the Northbridge cooler. The fit with the copper plate seems to be more sturdy than with it mounted directly on the IHS.
I am about 5 degrees cooler with the DFI than I was with the IP35-PRO for whats it worth in comparison.
I did, using the copper plate, but not the external transpiper. I did it in a watercooled environment... As you might expect, it seemed to help cool the PWM a good deal, and the chipset, a bit too... And also as you might expect the CPU was a bit warmer.Quote:
Originally Posted by robbynaish
If you aren't pushing your CPU to the absolute max, or if your absolute max is not being limited by heat, then it works... somewhat. In the end I took it off. I am working on stable 4ghz @ 8x500 now, and I will leave it off, because at 8x500 my chipset and pwm are not too hot (I do have a 120 mm fan mounted over my ram that gets a good deal of air on the chipset)
edit/ I am also now considering modding a small water block to stick on the pwm to keep it all cooler.
Thanks a ton for the confirmation. I am glad to hear of more than one person now who mounted the 120 Extreme without NB interference. I am glad to hear the copper plate added a bit more sturdiness to the mount as well. I can see the cpu getting hotter however as the temps from the PWM will travel across the copper plate to the cpu as well as from the copper plate to the transpiper. It will travel in both directions. I am wondering if the cpu would heat up as well having sub layers of TIM between the plate and the HSF assembly as opposed to the HS being mounted directly to the cpu itself. Interesting idea to say the least.Quote:
Originally Posted by SVTSnake
What case are you using SVTSnake?
SilverStone TJ09 with the side window panel. I've probably had about 20 cases, and this is by far my favorite case with plenty of space and cooling.
I am running this board with a q6600 and when i push the voltages and run Prime 95 My 900watt PSU (OCZ) starts making alot of noise. Then the mb reboots on its own with no hardware error in prime 95. I am able to achieve Prime95 stable for 5hrs @ 445 x9 with 1.55 volts. But when I push the volts up I get random reboots while priming. ram = gskill ddr2800 hz's (2x1gb). Is it the PSU or my cpu?
Thinking of doing the same.... Just got the board yesterday and sticking a small fan on the pwm cooled the chipset also by quite a bit.... Actually a nicer looking board that I thought, I thought it looked tacky in pics....Quote:
Originally Posted by retrospooty
no ,i"m using a San Ace 120mm (100CFM) :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarfall
yep,the cpu stays the same but the PWM runs 2C-3C lowerQuote:
You are saying as well that you DID notice a lower temp on PWM with the copper plate but not the CPU?
Today 06:03 AM
Hi, All...
Just got this board on Friday and now trying to run it with my QX6700 . Unfortunately I had a problems to run the board with my Enermax Liberty 620W PSU :brick: . The board just does not likes it – no post, no diagnostic led, just nothing. The PSU is working great with my P5N32E-SLI with SLI 8800GTSx2 640Mb onboard. The board running well now with Antec Trio 650W. I don’t know what is the issue with Enermax , but it is a matter of fact with me.
I have a question about the RAID0 Stripe :help:. I have 2 Seagate 250Gb in RAID0 Nvidia Stripe made by P5N32E-SLI. When I connect both to the SATA connectors and setting up the SATA to RAID in bios, the RAID utility does not recognize the RAID0 Stripe with them. Entering the utility (CTRL+I) gives me an option to create the Stripe. Actually I afraid to lose the data I have on the HDD, by creating the new stripe.
Is there any option to get the Nvidia created stripe to work with the P35 T2R (or any other P35/Intel chipset) motherboard , or do I have to create new stripe and to reformat it :confused:?
Thanks ...
P.S. Sorry for my bad english...
Quote:
Originally Posted by IceB
first off ::welcome: welcome to xtreme systems:up:
i read a while back about an issue with enermax psu and a dfi board. did you hook up the fdd power connectors below the pci-express slot? if so try without them.
i i finally got around to overclocking my system. can anyone help me with the memory timings. i have no idea what this ram will run best with. i want to get the highest overclock on the ram then work on the cpu. the cpu seems to be able to hit 4 ghz stable no problem.
dont know why my sig is showing up
q6600 g0 stepping
DFI LanParty UT P35-T2R
2 gb crucial ballistix tracers 8500
evga 8800 ultra
ss phase unit.
Thank You ;) .Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyz
I tried several options to get the P35 T2R to work with the Enermax. With and without the cables, but nothing helps. I'll stick with the Antec now - looks like it does the job :up: .
My RAID0 question is still confusing me. Googled it, but unsuccessfully.
Thanks for the reply. Do you think the lower PWM temp is due to the copper plate or the transpiper? I was thinking of using the transpiper on the PWM but without the copper plate. Do you still think this will lower temps the 2-3c you mentioned or is the copper plate needed as well to achieve this?Quote:
Originally Posted by PcCI2iminal
Thanks.