It's only one core too, with the time ran covered up.. and that's not load temp, it's idle
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10C in the room ( it was late november ) , stock cooling ( the one with heat-pipes ) plus Vantec Tornado on top . :)
Here's another one : little brother 165 :D
http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=38890nn9.jpg
I just ran this tonight, not realy pushing it though. The stepping is CCBBE 0610DPMW bought late last winter.
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/8...tledgj1.th.jpg
nice clocks Repoman :D
Getting my LCB9E very soon - its in the mail
Out of interest, what sort of burning in / running does everyone run before starting bumping those clocks? And is it with burning in that get people up to the 3GHz range @ stock volts, or is it just the gradual increase? (individual stepping variances notwithstanding)
I'm just not too sure about the burning in theory (or myth ;)), and I was really wondering whether it is common practice to let a chip run in for a while (i.e. 6-12 hours Orthos or similar) at stock before starting to bump things up.
My current Opty 165 CCBWE 0551 UPMW is a... well... CCBWE really (2.5G @ 1.4v; 2.6G @ 1.5) and I want to give this next one the best chance possible.
cheers, looking forward to this :D
Wigs
Thanks :)
Before taking the IHS off I booted up and set 2.9 @ 1.35, it failed Prime after seeing temps of 65 and 75C on each core. After that I took the IHS off and ran Prime95 at an immediate 2.95GHz @ 1.35. Passed for 10 minutes so set 3.05, failed quickly so down to 3.03, failed again after 10 minutes so down to 3.0 :D
OCing has become a very quick thing for me, instead of ramping up to the max clocks I go over max stable speeds and move down. It's easier to tell that way what the max will be because you can look at Prime failure times and make an educated guess
dont bother with burning in myself, never really believed it exists. more that time spent with hardware improves the skills employed in oc..
i choose the speed i want, do everything i can to get it, if that fails drop down untill it works.
Thanks for the replies all.
I thought that might be the case; with the experience I have had with overclocking the 3700, a really crappy 4400 and the moderately crappy 165, all on the same motherboard, I think I should be pretty good to go as soon as I slap the new 165 in there.
Nice to see that patience isn't always necessary - I would hate to have to (for max overclocks sake) slowly move up from 200 FSB in 10 increments to 334 FSB - it would drive me bonkers!
I will keep everyone updated when the chip arrives :D
The only "burn-in" (not really) time I can see being worthwhile it to run the chip 16 hours a day - and off at night - for a week at a moderate OC (but still on stock volts) just to get the TIM cured before the real OC'ing starts. Other than that I just can't see any good reason to waste time before hitting it ...
Just got a LCB9E 0651RPMW. I saw another one that was a week 13, doing 2.86 @1.19v. Think that mine could do the same thing with a DFI SLI-DR Expert, naked, under H20?
The LCB9E's from week 50/06 --> seem to be very good. I wouldn't expect it to do as well as my 0613, though.
3g with quite low voltage is my guess, but I never bought a LCB9E (I guess i have to someday:D ) so there are other guys who know alot more about these steppings than I do.
I usually start with 3g @ stock, and if that doesn't work, up the voltage to 1.45. And then to 1.55 if necessary.
But my first chip I did it the "boring" way, 50mhz at the time - dual prime 8h every night. Since that chip did 2.9 @ stock voltage it took a while lol.
I got a new Opty from RMA today, a bit better than the last one (0615 MPMW @ 2583 mhZ with 1,4 volts) and now I have a 0615 DPMW :)
Cool n Quiet with CrystalCPUID is awesome
Currently doing a 1160MHz @ 0.95v with 31C load as my mininum setting, 2320MHz @ 1.15v for my medium setting, and 2900MHz @ 1.3v for the 'max' setting :) The program automatically switches between these depending on CPU load. 1160MHz is perfectly responsive for idle Windows browsing and using Firefox.
I might even switch it up to 1200MHz, 2400MHz, and 3000MHz settings (switch HTT from 290 to 300). This way I wouldn't feel bad about letting it run at 3Ghz, heating up my room and wasting power because it would be at 300x4 most of the time :)
PS the key to getting it to work is using the "Auto" CPU VID setting in the BIOS.. then if you have a DFI board you can just use the VID Startup value to actually control the initial voltage applied, until CrystalCPUID takes over. YOu can also still use the Vcore special % thing, it's always added to the VID that CrystalCPUID sets
ho so good
Interesting. On the ASUS A8N32 (don't know about the others) enabling CnQ locks out the VID but uses the previous setting for startup. I used it for about 2 months on my sig rig (running @ 233x12) and everything worked fine. It would shift between 12x, 9x, and 6x as needed. After 2 months I started crunching SETI so I didn't have a need for it anymore. I did change to 255x11 after that to bump the RAM a little ...
I Use CPU Rightmark V1.5
set to max fid 12, max vid 1.4, mins 5/1.1 works a charm. uses pretty much every multi available depending on load.
then again, unlike most boards, the abit ax8 seems to set v-core by setting vid within normal cpu settings then adding additional voltage on top, so most apps/utilities report 1.4v all the time, rather than the real volts. when multi/vid are dropped, the extra on top is maintained!
Alrighty, I received the chip, it is a LCB9E 0704 TPMW.
Not the best ones of the LCB9E stepping, however it is interesting how I faired.
I am now up to 2700MHz (300 x 9), with my ram at 225MHz DDR 2-3-3-5; 2.9v. The CPU is definitely stable, as can be seen in the below screenshot, with Orthos running at top priority for 11 hours 53 minutes. Voltage = 1.35v - 1.40v fluctuating (1.35 in bios, with around a 0.05 vdroop on this Epox board - known for it). Nice.
This chip is definitely capable of more, however I am 95% sure that my motherboard has let me down with this one. I was initially stress testing @ 312 FSB (2808MHz) and had it stable at this setting through Orthos @ 1.45v in bios (not the full 12 hours tho, woohoo!) however Windows would often randomly lock up, and I would have huge troubles with cold boots - it would get stuck in the same place every time (code 50 on my Epox motherboard).
Tweaking chipset voltage made no difference whatsoever; would lock up no matter if the chipset voltage was 1.5v through to 1.8v (maximum the board will give it, and I don't trust my PSU much beyond this point anyway).
Dropping back to 300 FSB means a full 0.1v less vcore, and the CPU is solid stable (still testing memory with Memtest 86+ right now). Interestingly; I have stress tested up to 334 FSB before on this board (with CPU downed on the multiplier) and it was generally fine - this was some time ago however so the year of general aging would probably have put a stop to that.
Either way, happy with a 50% overclock on stock voltage, with core load temps being 42c max (PWM 49c); gained myself 200MHz from the last chip with 0.1v less as well
Click below for full image
http://www.dunedindrumnbass.com/imag.../overclock.jpg
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9777/cpuxd4.th.jpg
very interesting i put my FSB 1:1 290, everest shows it right, but why doesn't Cpu-z show? :S
10char......
Opty 165 LCBQE 0711SPAW currently running at 300x9 @ 1.3v on water. No SS yet - I'm not done OC'ing ... ;)