Well that's good to know, as I'm running 4GB (2x2). I've never run across that info, why is it needed?
And THANKS.
Printable View
#1 Has anyone attempted to remove the N/S Bridge HS? Mine will not come off and I haven't installed it yet (Yes, I removed the 4 screws and 6 spring loaded pushpins)
#2 Who is using a 4-pin 12V connector instead of the 8-pin 12V connector?
#1 - I'm on my 2nd board. The first one I could not remove the HS at all, I simply got too nervous with the amount of force it seemed was necessary to remove it. With my second board, it popped right off with minimal force using my hand. It has been suggested a number of times that it's necessary to attempt removing the HS before starting the board so that the thermal adhesive isn't able to set. That being said, I wonder if it's possible that certain boards are exposed to ambient temperatures, whether in shipment or storage, which heat the compound enough to make it more difficult to remove. Or, is Asus doing something different with more recent board revisions. My first was an SE rev.1.02G. My second is a non-SE rev.1.03G.
#2 - I'm using an 8-pin 12V connector.
Thank You Grnfinger and sdumper, those settings are OCCT (30min Auto Blend) stable for me. I'm going to keep tweaking and see what I can adjust.
Anyone else who's able to post BIOS settings for 450x8, I'm interested in seeing what kind of variance there is between everyone's stable settings.
Im a noob here and I hope this isn't too off topic, but I see that many of you here have experience with the Maximus Formula. I am currently looking to buy a MB and I am leaning towards this board, but I would like some of you gurus to help me out. I have narrowed down my selection to these 2 boards. Which one would you choose?
ASUS P5E or ASUS MAXIMUS FORMULA Non-SE
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131227
Can anyone give me their own thoughts on either of these? Also, do you know if the QX9650 will run out of box on these boards?
Also, anyone running after market NB and SB coolers on either of these boards?
THANK YOU!!!
Execute Disable Bit is basiclly a Anti-Virus Measure.
memory remapping feature is for over 2GB of ram.
Benefit? YES!!!
I popped mine second board as soon as I got it..came off easily...first board would run 50c or so under 1.45v, now I can run 1.8v, and barely top 41c, using ceramique.
It actually seems now that the southbridge connection to teh NB heatsink dictates temps...but also because I am using thermal probes attached to various places I am aware that both SB and NB temps are not reported accurately in ANY instance....both heatsinks are 2c higher by thermal probe than reported temps by on-board sensors.
the heatsink assembly , after changeing paste, seem quite good...it's the stock TIM that fouls things up!
Opps yep your right I responded to quickly...
sorry guys my bad :(
By the way I just picked one of these boards up to run with my cascade:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131235
Anybody else tried this with DDR3 yet? On the Maximus SE I was able to hit a decent not great but decent SuperPi run at 5ghz but am thinking to really perform well I need to go to DDR3 and some coldddd...
What do you mean by 8-pin 12V connector? I don't have any 8-pin connector connected to my mobo... I only have the 24-pin and the 4-pin near the CPU area... I know you can remove the little white cover above the other 4-pin but isn't 4-pin enough or I should switch the 4-pin for an 8-pin (that I have in my PSU but is not in use)...
Maybe that's a reason why I have stablity issues about 450 fsb...
4-pin connector is ok except for some cases were you OC. 8-pin 12V connector allows for much more smoother operation and better OC. If a MB has a 8-pin connector its a general rule to use a 8-pin 12V connector from your PSU for better stability. People reported better:
-vdroop
-better OC
-smoother OS operations
using 8-pin 12V vs 4-pin 12V ina 8 pin socket. This was from other MBs though.
Ohh well that's some very good infos! I could run my Q6600 at 4GHz (9x445) but I tried to do 475x8 for 24/7 usage and with any voltage applied to vNB, PLL and vFSB, I couldn't go past Windows loading before the system would hang or crash...
I'll try that asap!
HOT IS NOT GOOD!
best to go hot, then freeze(if you've ran the board), then pry up using dimm slot as lever point...use VERY LITTLE FORCE...if it doesn't budge, try when the board is still frozen! My second board, used dimm slot, board was still cold from delivery truck, and it took NO FORCE!!!(I used rubber-tip on screwdriver so as to not scratch anything)
the TIM "melts" when hot, but it sets very quickly, so you must keep it hot when you try to remove...my concern is that the required heat may loosen the FBGA for the chipset!
S1mon, increase FSB over 450 requires a HUGE boost in vNB here...same situation with e6600 and B3/G0 quads for me.
could be heat holding you back..I dunno...but like I said OVER 450 required a HUGE jump in vNB , oh, and vFSB, but only for my G0. I posted my 450x9 settings a few pages back...only thing i needed to increase was vFSB and vNB to get higher...maybe your cpu is limiting you.
Also, cpuPLL needs incrase @ higher fsb too.
Hehe yeah guess I'll need to spend a few more hours trying to find the right combo...
0901 & 0902 are back up at the ASUS download site.
The person trying to remove their NB HS, just try an pry the HS at the corners. Don't apply too much pressure. If the first corner doesn't give then try the next corner and on and on and on. Eventually the HS will pop off.
I used a flat head screw driver and just turned it 90 degrees under each corner and it just popped off but do so at your own risk as I do not want any hate mail if something bad happens.
S1mon I had those problems but instead of running one to one memory speed. I run the 5:6 divider which makes the memory run much faster in terms of MHz and the timings in bios are the same. The board is then 100% stable priming for over nine hours, Crysis and Gears of War as well as Dual Pi32m stable.
Hi everyone, although this is my first post I've been following this thread since day one. It helped me in most cases, but this time I think I have to ask for help. My system has been running on water cooling for two days now (see signature). And what I've found strange is the cpu temerature reading from either BIOS or Everest. In idle state it shows 60 - 65 Degrees celsius (which I thought would be much, much lower when switching to water cooling). I can't figure the reason My current FSB is 9x333, memory runs at 667MHz. Any advice?
That Thermaltake kit might be the problem.
You bought some nice chipset blocks, how are there temps ?
Have you tried remounting the cpu block?