If this isnt stable for you...for me its...Quote:
Originally Posted by INFRNL
BTW 24h of folding is suficient for you??
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If this isnt stable for you...for me its...Quote:
Originally Posted by INFRNL
BTW 24h of folding is suficient for you??
Where are the good DC cpus coming from? Newegg, ZZF?
I have two Opteron 170s. I have a 0550 VPMW and also a 0550 UPMW. Both steppings are reported to be good clockers.
I got the VPMW first and right out of the box I managed to get it running at 2.8GHz (SPD timings for RAM) at a Vcore of 1.44v on the stock AMD HSF that comes in the box. This chip is F@H stable on both cores as well as stable for COD2 and FEAR.
I tried to run the VPMW under my Mach II GT but it wouldnt clock past 2.4GHz or 240HTT. So it has the cold bug :(
I bought the UPMW as I wanted to get hold of a chip that didnt have the cold bug.
Anyway I threw the chip in my rig under the stock AMD HSF and I couldnt get it past 2.4GHz for love nor money, and it wouldnt even boot to Win XP past 2.5GHz... I initially assumed it was a poor chip within the batch.
But then I started reading this thread and it was comments made by mag|c on Data and Drive strength that caught my eye. I read about his testing and I decided I had nothing to lose and tried his 5/1 recommendations..
WOW what a difference this made. Basically it cured all my stability issues and the UPMW now runs at exactly the same settings (2.8GHz) as the VPMW and is 24/7 stable for F@H and plays COD2 and FEAR not problems...
So a big thanks to mag|c for making his posts and let others know that it is worth fiddling about as even if you think you have taken the ram out of the equation to find max overclock by using a divider, it is not always the case. My ram runs 280FSB without any tweaking of the ram settings under the VPMW. My UPMW wont go past 2.4GHz on SPD settings even using a ram divider... But change the Data and Drive settings and BANG, problems solved, its like the chip has been given a new overclocking ceiling.
Cheers mag|c :toast:
so how did the UPMW handle mach2 compared to VPMW ?
I'm curious as why people all of a sudden are looking at the date code stepping info now for cold-bug traits. There is NOTHING that can be concluded from that those four letters following the pack date of the cpu :rolleyes: This is all the info that this part of the stepping is able to tell you:Quote:
Originally Posted by [O-CuK]MCRacer
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8...tecodes3jx.jpg
Please look here if you want a general idea of what cpu's have/don't have a bug: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=87182
I did that as well first few time..then I stopped and only used the method in the link and when a single core fails you can tell which one by which shortcut shores the failure..so you know whether it is cpu 0 or cpu 1Quote:
Originally Posted by eva2000
oh well...still not sure what is most correct and if one method leads to software conflicts affecting true result
Run it with MPS Multiprocessor. It will give you an xtra heat load @ minus temp.Quote:
Originally Posted by [O-CuK]MCRacer
it seems the memory controller can be pain in the rump...curious given you loosened your timings..is mhz speed the same?..do you see any difference if feel of the system with the looser timings..I found when loosened my system was as fast or fasterQuote:
Originally Posted by [O-CuK]MCRacer
the 0550 upmw chip I have has a very very good controller on it, gone through like 8 chips and this is the only one that can run every single dvider and handle any load of ram with zero problems.
He must of thrown this 1 pretty hard to land on my doorstepQuote:
Originally Posted by Rufus7
[IMG]http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/107...dium9rx.th.jpg[/IMG]
Just to clarify, I just ordered another 170, I never ordered a particular stepping... It just happend to be luck that I got sent a UPMW...Quote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
And no I havent tried it under the Mach II yet, I will do that once I have some more seal string.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
Ha Ha,Funny guy. Im just saying that how can you consider 9 hours to be 24/7 stable whn the test can still crash between the 9 hour and 24 hour mark. and if it does then total system stability will not be as stable as well. I hear some people say 8 hours is enough to consider stable and some say at least 24 hours. I guess since you guys hear say 8 hours I am going to start saying 8 hours as well since this will end up giving me a higher OC.
Also dont know the truth to this but I heard that with the no affinity Unchecked it allows the CPU's to run more independantly or to be able to see exactly which CPU is less stable.
can someone please explain to me about data and drive strength. i've read the post about it, read peoples comments, and i just dont understand how to change it. in my bios i see data drive strength, and the only choices i have are like 1, 1 low, 2, 2 low, 3, 3 low, etc. (something like that, maybe high instead of low, i forget i'm not near my computer)
i have a 170 0550 upmw on air, what should i put that to? or am i looking in the completely wrong section? do i want 7/2? 7/4? how the hell do i set anything to those numbers?
DRAM Drive Strength
Settings = Auto, 1-8 in 1.0 increments.
Paraphrased From Adrian Wong’s site:http://www.rojakpot.com/ “Sometimes called driving strength. This feature allows you to control the memory data bus' signal strength. Increasing the drive strength of the memory bus can increase stability during overclocking. DRAM drive strength refers to the signal strength of the memory data line. A higher number means a stronger signal and is generally recommended for an overclocked module to improve stability. Supposedly TCCD works better with weak drive strength while just about everything else prefers a stronger signal.”
From bigtoe: “If you leave the option at Auto this will set a weak drive strength, this is good for TCCD based modules but bad for anything else. From testing and debugging the board I have concluded the following. Options 1 3 5 7 are all weak, as is Auto, setting. 1 is actually the weakest option with 7 being as close to the normal weak setting DFI will allow us. Options 2 4 6 8 are the Normal settings, with 8 being the highest strength setting. If you are using TCCD you may want to try 3 5 or 7 as the drive settings as they usually seem to allow the modules to clock well. If you are using VX, or the new BH Gold, or any other modules from the OCZ range you may want to try 8 or 6.”
Large Influence on Stability.
Suggested Settings for DFI: From bigtoe: “If you are using TCCD you may want to try 3 5 or 7 as the drive settings as they usually seem to allow the modules to clock well. If you are using VX, or the new BH Gold, or any other modules from the OCZ range you may want to try 8 or 6.”
DRAM Data Drive Strength
Settings = Levels 1-4 in 1.0 increments.
From Adrian Wong’s site: http://www.rojakpot.com/
"The MD Driving Strength determines the signal strength of the memory data line. The higher the value, the stronger the signal. It is mainly used to boost the DRAM driving capability with heavier DRAM loads (multiple and/or double-sided DIMMs). So, if you are using a heavy DRAM load, you should set this function to Hi or High. Due to the nature of this BIOS option, it's possible to use it as an aid in overclocking the memory bus. Your SDRAM DIMM may not overclock as well as you wanted it to. But by raising the signal strength of the memory data line, it is possible to improve its stability at overclocked speeds. But this is not a surefire way of overclocking the memory bus. In addition, increasing the memory bus signal strength will not improve the performance of the SDRAM DIMMs. So, it's advisable to leave the MD Driving Strength at Lo/Low unless you have a high DRAM load or if you are trying to stabilize an overclocked DIMM."
Large Influence on Stability.
Suggested Settings for DFI: Many have suggested using Level 1 or 3, if you have CPC enabled. With CPC, anything above level 1 gives some users extreme instability. Some users like level 3 with CPC enabled. Some others have had success with using level 2-4 if CPC is disabled. I had good luck with CPC enabled and Level 4. (Higher = Faster)
this is clearly not my work... got it from DFI Street
http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20823
hope this helps
it helps, but what should i put it at?
EDIT: In my bios (704-2bta), the only options that i have are DRAM drive strength going from weak1, normal1, weak2, normal2, going up to normal4, and for DRAM Drive Data strength all i have is options 1,2 and 3
any suggestions?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdelong
On air result, this is for you :D :D
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...chmentid=43316
IHS is off, pc case is fully closed, room temperature around 70'F with the heater on, I was playing BF2 for 6 hours straight last night without a hiccup as well. ;) For now I can't break 2.90Ghz unless I could find a way to lower the PWMIC, the massive heatload was killer and at one time I saw 78'C!! I use copper ramsinks on all the hotspot and has a fan blowing on top of PWMIC area, but didn't help much.
Fan blowing on the PWMIC area doesn't help? I ran my X2 with 1.6 volts dual priming and PWMIC never went over 50. I had an 80 directed at the PWMIC area. But now i know that the actual PWM IC chip isn't what gets hot, its the 3 mosfets, that's what you wanna aim the fan at.
Right now i'm running a single core so it doesn't get nearly as hot, but still 1.55v @ 3.1 Ghz PWMIC doesn't exceed 38c and mosfets don't even get warm to the touch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolute_0
I tried 80mm and 90mm fan to cool the PWMIC area but for some reason it just doesn't want to come down. and yes the 3 mosfets, and the middle R60 chip right next to it were VERY HOT during prime, so fan was aiming directly to that area, I'd also tried to aim the fan from different directions too, I suppose I can leave the side panel off and open the window to let some cool air in but man...it's freezing outside....buurrrrr....
can someone please answer my question about drive data strength?
terrordemon, with that particular BIOS the labels translates to the following values when compared to the other DFI NF4 BIOSes...
So when someone who is NOT running 704-2bta tells you that they're running a DRAM Drive Strength of 6, it means that for your BIOS you would have to select "Normal 3".Code:704-2bta - Every other DFI NF4 BIOS
Weak 1 = 1
Normal 1 = 2
Weak 2 = 3
Normal 2 = 4
Weak 3 = 5
Normal 3 = 6
Weak 4 = 7
Normal 4 = 8
As for what you should actually set them to, I would recommend setting both DRAM DS and Data DS to Auto for now and see what you get. I couldn't get past 2.6Ghz until I set them both to auto on my Opt 170. Good luck :)
the problem is that i cant get PAST 2.6ghz with it on auto, so i may wanna try it off auto
Well, in that case it sounds like you've got no choice unless you test all the values out. Seeing as there's only 8 settings (at least for the DRAM DS, 4 for the Data DS) then it won't take long. Don't blame me, blame whatever it is that's stopping you OCing higher :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben805
very nice!! I'm trying to decide..... phase or water??
Is there really a need to decide between those two? :p: PHASE OF COURSE!!!:woot:Quote:
Originally Posted by cdelong
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben805
Good Job Ben; I run an Opty 0550 UPMW 434L and I get the similar results. I am working to get more stable at 2.9 but I can run SP2004 for over 24 hours @2.89GHZ using a TT BT(air). So I guess I am on the right track. I did not realize that Phase will boost you up that much more. Excellent job hitting 3.2GHZ. I still have my IHS on, but replaced thermal compound with AS5.
Have you made it any higher yet?
INFRNL