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Thanks man, I dont know yet about the shrouds since I heard they didnt come out yet. I like Yate Loons so Im going to be using two 1650Rpms UV Blue Yate Loons for this. Btw, what is that quad-core plate you are talking about? (sorry Im still a noob with this water stuff hehe)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
man, I can't get my rig stable on Prime95 blend tests at all, While overclock it fails after 3 mins, at Stock, It fails after 9 hours. WTH?!?!?
Slim, could you please keep us posted with your WC stuff(maybe in the WC section). I have been thinking about going WC for a long time now, but kind of intimidated and scared by the sheer number of components that I need to worry about.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
No worries guys, going liquid isn't as daunting as it seems, just read up on it. Great link within this forum to check out as well:Quote:
Originally Posted by tekjunkie
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=54331
Just take your time and ALWAYS leak test everything, (preferably before you slap it all inside your PC). Hopefully you have a spare PSU to do it with, makes life much easier to do it that way. Another thing to keep in mind is flow, avoid too many twists and turns and overly long lengths of tubing, shorter is always better. A degree or 2 here and there does help. We'll be here to help the lot of you out so no worries if you have any questions.
As an aside for anyone else interested, BIOS 804 did get rid of any audio issues,(ie; snap crackle pop) that was there previously with the latest NVidia GPU drivers. Now running latest drivers and the audio is fine no probs. I'm laughing at the fact that I must be the only one in here still using their 1st SIIE board, still tweaking it out but the bottom line seems that this board needs a lot of love and time, lotsa lotsa time which unfortunately is limited. Just want to hit 4ghz stable and I'll be in la la land.
Cheers
I was like you until two days ago in which I decided to try water cooling out, then a nice friend here, extremis (thanks a lot man) explained me every single detail about water cooling so yesterday I felt ready to start ordering the stuff. We will see how it goes and will also post pictures :)Quote:
Originally Posted by tekjunkie
I thought I was going to be the one with the stable board hehe, good luck with your OC since I know how it feels when you find out that wont be easy.Quote:
I'm laughing at the fact that I must be the only one in here still using their 1st SIIE board, still tweaking it out but the bottom line seems that this board needs a lot of love and time, lotsa lotsa time which unfortunately is limited. Just want to hit 4ghz stable and I'll be in la la land.
Cheers
Thermalright HR-09U type 2 and Thermalright HR-09S type2Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMK
Yes Evercool VC-RE :)
MCW 30 wont fit, unless you mod the mounting.
Being unable to Prime95 even at stock would tend to indicate RAM issues (especially the large TFT or blended tests). That was one symptom of my first set of RAM for this motherboard being bad. Before I switched to these Mushkins which I like a lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by [cTx]Warboy
Memtest only showed error on my old (Patriot) sticks in like 1 of every eight passes. But then they gradually got worse. Both sticks were bad as well. So the ol' "try one stick" method didn't work.
A few years ago, I had what seemed to be memory related problems, but they only showed up on Memtest weeks later. . . and then only when room temperature was over 85f.
Best,
H
Just an FYI for you guys...I decided to try and take the LLC off(had it on)with my stable 1702 linked and synced settings....Now I'm get screen freezes and lock-ups, prime95 will just lock up on me before it completes even the first 4 or 5 tests. I ran memtest 2.01 with it on and off..it passes either way but I need it enabled in Vista to stop the lock-ups.Quote:
Originally Posted by HurinThalion
Does this mean I need would to increase voltages with LLC off? Where would you start? CPU PLL VTT?
Yes you need to increase your cpu vcore. Remember is normal for your cpu to have more voltage in idle than you wish, but this will fall when in load. Besides, a little more voltage on idle doesnt increase the temps that much, maybe 1 or 2 degrees.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trigger5521
Thanks for the info mate... its a pain the MCW30 wont fit... I'll have to take a look at the EK's I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by Justifire
I have the same problem with a Q6600 (G0 stepping), but I can get it to 3.60GHz or even beyond at idle (cooling can't handle higher than 3.70) on a 8x multiplier. Try setting the FSB to 1600 and the multiplier at 8x, adjust some of the CPU and NB voltages and it should work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Erikz
btw: has anyone yet tested the asus xonar d2x/xdt pcie soundcard on the s2e?
would be quite interesting if it works better than the x-fi or if it even fits without interfering the nb block / ram sticks
I had DX fitted in upper PCI/E slots without any problems, with TriSLI setup.
I think Tyke has the D2X on the first slot, but he also mention to be carefull with the RAM brackets. He says it sounds great and changing his Auzentech for the D2x solved his SLI issues. However, I dont like that the D2X lacks EAX HD.Quote:
Originally Posted by sargatanas
well a friend needs a soundcard and just thought about it if it would be better to take the asus card.
i didn't want to order it since it looks too long for the s2e and thought it will interfer with the ram sticks.
but well, the pci version would be quite better since he uses a raid controller in this slot -_-
should be ok or what do u think? i'll guess it's only the x-fi chip itself which causes the problems
Whatever way it fits would be ok I guess. If you get to buy the cards, I would try to keep the sound card on the first slot IF it fits with no problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by sargatanas
well the pcie version would fit in the white pcie16 and the pci one between the 2 blue ones.
don't know yet which version we should buy. think the small pcie next to the nb won't work with the ram fan
I see, probably with a RAM fan wont fit. I would ask Tyke about this to get more detailed information.Quote:
Originally Posted by sargatanas
Okay. Hopefully I'm not jinxing myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by HurinThalion
But I completed a six hour Lord of the Rings Online session yesterday. And a seven hour session today. Followed by a two hour session just now. No freezes or problems at all. So, though this isn't proof that the problem is resolved and I may just have been lucky, I'm hopeful that things are now stable in SLi at stock speeds.
The only change made to the system above was that I installed BETA BIOS 0901. Voltages remain NB 1.5, SB 1.55, and RAM (down to) 1.86.
So, at least for me, the 0901 BIOS appears (so far) to be the fix for SLi freezes.
H
P.S. Now it's time to start OCing again! =)
Go with the EK S-Max, it's great :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMK
same here, installed ek blocks on sb, nb and mosfets. working great
Thanks for the tip! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Justifire
Oh, and can I just confirm something before I order. In your previous post you mentioned the Thermalright HR-09U type 2 and Thermalright HR-09S type2 for the mosfets. Is it either of those that fit, or do I need one of each (E.G. one for the mosfets above the CPU and the other one for the ones on the left of the CPU).
does our supremefx 2 supports dd live and/or dts connect?
using optical keep getting only stereo channle
under vista 64
One of each, the S for above the cpu, the U for the backplate side.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMK
See my pics posted some pages back.
I see the HR09 Type 4 more attractive :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whizzer
I tried those settings and variations, but when I get to windows it BSOD's.
Might be a ram limitation.. I'll keep you updated.
After reading Tyke's post 1280 I tried some of his settings as I have the same CPU.
Kept LLC DIS and Vcore at 1.3875, NB=1.50 & SB=1.55
Changed PLL & VTT back to AUTO
Changed GTLREF0 to -14mV
Changed to 15.17 chipset drivers.
Now 11 1/2hr prime stable with manual halt, previous best was 11 minutes ending in hardware failure.
Big thanks to Tyke !!.
PS. Just ordered Asus 280 GTX TOP
My rig :QX9770 on Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme cooler:
EVGA 9800 GX2 SSC. Creative X-Fi Elite Pro.
OCZ 4x1Gb PC3-16000C9 2000Mhz Platinum EB
Samsung F1 1TB & 2X500Gb Hitachi SATA 2.
2xSamsung 20XDVD-RW SATA
Vista Ultimate 32bit
Settings : 430x9.5=4085Mhz overclock. 1720 FSB Syn & Linked.
Mem : 7-7-7-22-30-1T @ 1.9v
Benches : 20,419 3dMark06 7,274 PCMarkVantage.
If that's the case, try setting a lower multiplier (like 3:2) or simply run it unlinked at a low speed (1000MHz just to be sure). If you use Vista, be sure to install the RAM update if you have 3GB or more installed: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929777Quote:
Originally Posted by Erikz
Also try pulling some sticks if that's the case, it helped me initially.
What BIOS are you using? I just updated to 0901 (had to resort to AwardFlash again, but it works fine), and now I can overclock almost just as far with a 9x multiplier as the previous 8x multiplier attempts.
Yea, I've used some Yate Loon fans they are A1!!Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
Ther Quad Core plate is an update for the V2 Fuzion that optimises the flow for Quad Core processors, it forces the water flow where the two dies are on the chip and improves cooling performance. In the V1 this was done with a set of nozzles. It is very simple to fit. The shrouds for the Rad are a must!!
So that quad core plate comes built-in with the V2 right? No need to purchase it separately?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
BTW, I see you are using a triple fan rad for the cpu, isnt that a little too much just for the cpu? =P
Glad it worked :up: Keep us informed if you have any problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by rob2k
No the plate comes separately it is very cheap. You open up the Fuzion block and replace the standard plate, it is just a simple one minute job. Make sure you align the holes in the plate with the two cores on the processor.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
Yes the triple rad is overkill, but I am thinking of getting watercooled GTX 280s, in which case I will add the motherboard cooling to the CPU loop, and have a separate graphics loop.
Thats nice, btw I just found it on PPCS.com and I will use it for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
ASUS should have my board by now, I hope they are testing my SLI issues! :D
Dream on slim...Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
Any testing they do is after the fact.
You'll get a new board that's probably been checked out, fixed, and pronounced healthy.
Ain't no way they'll take the time to troubleshoot your SLI issue..
BTW, their qa people all have sores on their knuclkles from dragging them on the ground.
Asus is known to send the same board back from RMA after having "repaired" it. A lot of people have complained that they are getting back "used" boards, whereas it's their own board being sent back after "repairing".That's the reason that I wrote down the serial # of my dead board before I sent it for RMA and was surprised to see a brand new retail board being sent back.Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearjock
So in short yes, it's quite possible that they will try to troubleshoot slim's problems before deciding whether to send the same board after "repairing" or a new one.
BTW, Slim I am not trying to scare you buddy but am just stating the stuff that I know of when I was researching on the net about RMAing stuff to Asus.Good luck with whatever board you get back.
I dont know if they do test the issues. I sent them together with the board a paper with one paragraph stating my issues. My inestability even at stock and my SLI issues when watching videos and even when burning DVDs so at least, they could read my paper and do something about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearjock
If they dont test anything, then why is the RMA such a long process? I heard it takes 10 days? This is a lot of time if you ask me...
I also heard people getting used boards, others getting boards that were refurbished but worked and others received new motherboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by tekjunkie
I also have the S# of my board in my ASUS profile just in case.
I just hope that if they get to test my board, Im praying that they see the screen freeze on their face.
Tek, I been hearing this stuff all over the net. You are not the first one so I guess the moment I sent my board, I accepted to take the risk. However, I cant just keep a board that wont be stable even at stock settings, I rather get a refurbished that WORKS.
Ok, I know this is a little off topic but I need some recomendations
I dont know which one should I set up, both have advantages.
Prototype 1 will bring all the cold water straight to the CPU then NB
Prototype 2 will bring all cold water and store it on the reservoir (basically), I heard this is the most common and most used?
Here is prototype 1
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/880...ypeflowzm8.png
Here is prototype 2
http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/855...ypeflowte7.png
Which one do you think would work better? I want the best performance.
Hello everyone,
first post ever on this forum,
and i'd like to say this community a GREAT ONE !
technical and accurate and all ...
reading a few thread on this forum have been very helpfull to learn about overclocking ( and i m becoming an addict lol )
anyway i feel like sharing my little experience,
with my AS2E BIOS 0704, E8500, 1 stick ( didn t try with 2 yet ) DDR3 2GB CORSAIR 9-9-9-24 DHX 1600Mhz
this board might not have been the easiest to start with too :D
- at first i found this board wasn t stable at all @stock everything AUTO
so i did find this forum and learn a few thing,
main problems came from the RAM voltage it was 1.6v and also NB that was like 1.32v
first step to stability was to bring RAM to 1.8v and NB to 1.46v
then reading you all gave me the taste to start with overclocking experience !
so here is my first stable OC
E8500@3.6 been using PRIME95 over 10hours, and 3dmark06 looping for about 13hours
i've been using those settings
QFSB 1517
Multi 9.5 Link Sync
LDT X4
RAM 1.8v
CPU 1.2725
LLC Disabled ( so there s something like 0.05v drop when under load according CPU-Z )
PLL 1.5 VTT 1.28
( i dont remember which one is 1.5 and the other 1.28 anyway low green voltage value in bios )
NB 1.46
SB 1.55 ( think 1.5 is also stable )
Rest is on AUTO i'm not yet familar to this settings GTL things
- after this i did try learn about MAX FSB lowering RAM speed and setting multiplier to 6x
i'm on AIR also i did find out i don t want to go over 1.4v for this CPU, it s leading to something like 63c with coretemp 53with real temp
when i m reaching 2200QFSB (550 FSB) this would the very last FSB i can run before my MB either dont boot or can t get stable running PI 32M
so i found i m somewhat easily stable at 500 X 6multi @ arround 1.38v BIOS
which is leading to 1.344 idle 1.328 load CPU-Z
i ve also find out my ram rated 1600 would go somewhat up to 1750 linked synced before i need to go 4:5 or 3:2
in reality all i did want to reach is the *famous* 4Ghz 24/7
but i ve found out it s not really working anymore when i m trying to up the MULTI again ...
i think according to my Ram max i should be able to run either at
421*9.5 or 445*9 linked to reach the 4Ghz
but it s just failing after 1 sec of prime
where the 500*6 unlinked or the 425*6 linked would run forever
any idea to improve stabilty ?
thank you
I have the second setup, and I think most people would advise this: you have the hottest block (CPU) first in loop, fed direct from pump. How are you cooling your SB and mosfets? Have you changed your rad to a Thermochill?Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
In a warm room or case, the water in the reservoir will warm up.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
I dont know how big your reservoir is, maybe it isn't that big so it's quicker pumped around than heated.
I prefer : pump->CPU (might be high restrictive like EK Supreme or D-Tek Fusion with nozzle, so you want high flow/pressure and this is the heart of your machine, it deserves the best cooling of all components)->NB(water won't rise more than 1`c when passing cpu)->Reservoir(hot water might cool a little bit before cooled down by radiator)->radiator->pump
It might even be better to put the radiator behind the pump, a pump may add heat to the water from his engine.
That depends om your cpu block, if you put a radiator behind the pump, the pressure wil decrease and might be bad for high restrictive blocks (as noticed above)
All by all, if you don't use a chiller it might not be such a big deal.
Your water will get warm all over the loop.
The most important is a good radiator or off course a waterchiller.
Another thing, if you use a fillport, drop the reservoir, save yourself some money and use a T-split with some extra tubbing ;)
Agree !Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
But those ain't confirmed to fit on the SIIE (they are on reference 790i boards)
And type 2 works great :up:
I'd say the second set up
So Tyke you have the second setup exactly as I drew it right? Is this (2nd setup) the standard setup most people use? I have seen a couple of this in the WC section.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
Im not going to cool the SB and mosfets. This would mean more money and probably another rad and pump to keep everything cool. I will just buy an Antec Spotcool and place it right above the SB.
And sorry for the confusion, Im going to be buying a Feser X-changed 360. Is just that I got the draws from somebody else thats why it has PA120.3
My room sometimes gets really hot. Sometimes I will come back from outside and lower the AC but generally my room temp is not cold, just regular temp not cold not warm. Cant specify a degree sorry, never measured room temp.Quote:
Originally Posted by Justifire
Im going to be using an EK-Multioption RES 250 Rev 2 which is going to be placed right next to the DVD Drives.
I think the Feser will do a good job, specially since the 360 is the sweet spot. About the reservoir, I really want to use it. Its my first time building a watercooling system and I want to use the reservoir. Besides I think it looks cool :D
If they confirm it, I would get those. Finally a sexy mosfet cooler with a sexy motherboard :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Justifire
Thanks for the recommendation :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Xoote
So far everybody seems to like the second one, this is what Im going to be using
CPU Block: D-TEK FuZion v2 CPU Block (CPU: Q9450)
Quad-Core Plate: D-Tek FuZion v2 Quad Core Mid Chamber Insert
Radiator: Feser X-Changer Triple 120mm Xtreme Performance
Pump: Swiftech MCP655-B (No Speed Controller)
Barbs: Bitspower Premium G1/4" High Flow 1/2" Fitting (*8)
Bitspower Premium G1/4" High Flow 3/8" Fitting (*2)
Bitspower Multi-Transfer Base (Coupler) - Set of 2
Clamps: Breeze Miniature Hose Clamp 7/16 in. to 25/32 in
Reservoir: EK-Multioption RES 250 Rev 2
Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
EK-ANTI-Cyclon for EK Reservoirs
EK Spare Reservoir Holders
Filling Syringe
Fillport: Danger Den Aluminum Fillport
Tubes: Tygon R3603 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD Laboratory Tubing (*10 feet)
Tygon 3603 3/8" ID (5/8" OD) Clear Tubing (*1 foot)
Coolant: Feser One F1 Cooling Fluid - UV Blue - 1 Liter
------------------
Im going to be making a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor with the barbs for the NB.
So now with all of this info, which setup would be better for me? I think second setup is preferred so far, but I forgot to mention my room sometimes gets a little warm and that might affect the reservoir temp. I will also have a 120mm fan on top of the case to help exhaust air from the reservoir (forgot to draw this fan on the pictures) so this will help, but dont know if will help enough to go for the second setup.
What do you guys think?
Personally I would cool the SB with SLi, but its your choice. You gotta get shrouds on the Feser rad, they look really cool, and will give you better temps as well. Good luck with it, lo0k forward to hearing your results. Otherwise I thionk your setup is perfect. I use a large double bay reservoir on both my loops, I would imagine that this keeps the fluid cooler but I haven't tested it.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
Well, i ordered an S-Max and a pair of GTX 280 blocks from EK today, so they should be here in a few days. Hopefully watercooling the NB will help a bit! :)
Will get shrouds, thats something I forgot to add to my list hehe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
About the SB, I dont know. I dont want to have a 3x120 rad for everything since my main concern is the CPU and the NB.
If I decide to wc the SB, that means either cut the heatpipe or buy Thermalright mosfet coolers and a SB block. Plus I would have to find a block that is super-low profile in case someday I decide to buy GTX 280 or something that big for SLI.
Why do you say wc the SB? Because the SB itself gets hot or because SLI makes it get hot? (Remember 8800GT are 1 slo, I can clearly see my SB from my window). Adding the Spotcool to the SB I think would be good dont you think? :shrug:
bump :(Quote:
Originally Posted by |SiLA|
By having the loop order Res > Pump > Rad > Blocks > Res you remove all of the heat dump from the pump and have the liquid going from Rad to blocks, all the "heated coolant" will go to the res, heat dump of the pump to rad again. I have my all three of my loops running that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
If you WC the NB, you have to get coolers for the Mosfets and SB as well. The Asus Heat pipe is one unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
Evercool makes a block that fits on the SB and allows Tri-SLI, no WC for the SB, but you atleast get some fan over cooler relief for the SB.
If you WC the SB, you cannot run Tri-SLI, you will need a very short PCIE card to fit in PCIEX16-3. I added an EK Asus 5 to my SB, so the 9600GT I had for my second display is no go. Will only be able to do SLI and a single display.
If you don't WC the SB, run the Evercool.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
Thats the positive about the first draw. Fresh cold water straight to the blocks which seems pretty smart.Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
I am curious to see your temps with a Fuzion V2 and Quad plate, will be nice to have some comparison. I'm currrently sitting at cores ranging 36-42ºC with fans on low-med. 8 hours of prime, max core temp (core 4) was 51ºCQuote:
Originally Posted by slim142
Yea the spotcool is good. For me with SLi the SB was hotter then the NB before I put the blocks on.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
I am wondering if 3 way sli is possible with the BFG GTX280 as it is a single slot card.Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
http://www.bfgtech.com/bfgrgtx2801024h2ocwe.aspx
Are those temps at stock or overclocked? What rad are you using?Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
I will post results and pictures as soon as I finish everything. Cant believe this build began at the end of march...
Well my SB was always hotter (remember the pic I posted NB=60c SB=74c)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
So I hope this time with the Spot Cool I get decent temps.
Sorry Myke :bows:
I just need recommendation from the ones that already have wc on this motherboard ;)
This thread is not that active anyways
Not in my case, BitspowerDD Fatboy ½" fittings and 3/4" OD Tube...wow, i'd be tight with 3/8" ID tubing even...I doubt it. If the fittings were in the center of the block versus on the bottom edge or top edge it could be done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
OC'd (1720 FSB, Linked and Synced), haven't found a stable OC yet though. Prime is ok, but SuperPi isn't. I really think I need to dial in this ram first at unlinked before I settle on linked and sync'd.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
PA120.3 with Yate Loon D12SM-12's in pull.
With the Mosfets, NB and SB on WC, my NB sits at 21º-22ºC and SB at 19º-20ºC in BIOS, I don't have Everest yet to check them under load.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
I could be posting more, but I am a complete noob when it comes to OC'ing an nVIDIA board...plus this is my first quad, went from a P4 to a Yorkie. I have some many noob questions on how to OC this board...but I don't want to ruin this thread. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Big Myke
I think there is no water block that will allow you to have 3 Double-Slot graphic cards right? I just checked PPCs and none of them have the connections on the sides so you could water cool the SB.Quote:
Not in my case, BitspowerDD Fatboy ½" fittings and 3/4" OD Tube...wow, i'd be tight with 3/8" ID tubing even...I doubt it. If the fittings were in the center of the block versus on the bottom edge or top edge it could be done.
Those are good temps. Are you using 1 pump for all that?Quote:
With the Mosfets, NB and SB on WC, my NB sits at 21º-22ºC and SB at 19º-20ºC in BIOS, I don't have Everest yet to check them under load.
i do think these WC stuff should be brought to the WC forum, let bring back this thread on topic again
This could just be a fluke. Or it might not. But the 15.17 nforce drivers disappeared from the nvidia server today.
I've long contemplated going back to an earlier revision of those drivers to try to iron out some minor remaining problems with my board. Perhaps this is an indication that I might have had the right idea?
Or, it could just be webmaster's mistake. =)
H
I just setup a new build with this board. So far it is rock solid @ stock. Planned to start OCing soon!!!
The only issue i have with this board is that the FirstPacket feature of the on-board dual ethernet. It seem to be incompatible with my router (D-Link DIR-635). Windows' network stack would hang completely after several minutes of heavy usage, and I need to reboot my PC to regain connectivity. Tried to connect to my ADSL modem directly and all seem to be working fine. Spent a day on this issue until I figured out the culprit finaly, disabled it and it is working nicely ever since. Anyone have a similar issue?
It was removed a while ago, I updated with 15.17 but caused nothing but problems. I re-installed 9.46 nforce drivers & it works 100%:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by HurinThalion
I've just checked and 15.17 is still on the NVidia download page for me, both 32 and 64 bit versions. I have had no problem with this driver.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHardCase
Same issue with my d-link DLG-4300. Super slow internet with first packet enabled. I never bothered to try and find out why or a work around just disabled it and moved on to more pressing issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by FatboyHK
I guess that FirstPacket may have issue with those routers with build-in QoS... It is a sensible guess i think, this kind of acceleration features are bonded to step on each others' toe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trigger5521
But we don't need both of them enabled anyway, just disable one of them will be fine and nothing is missed.
Slim, The card I was looking at is a single slot card, I might get a couple when they are available and see if I could fit a third one in. If they overclock better than my Zotacs (710/1485/1285) then I'll keep them, otherwise I can get rid of them on eBay. The EK water block on the SB has the inlet/outlet to the side so it may work. It's just finding somewhere that has them in stock!Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
Which download page? Cuz it's definitely gone on the standard "Download Drivers" page here (http://www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx?lang=en-us). Just checked Windows and Vista and the Beta/Archives area as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
EDIT: Nevermind. I see that you're going to the UK site. I tried the Mexico site last night before posting this. But it does look like they've been left up on the UK one. An oversight?
Simon posted in my thread on the Asus forums that they were pulled because of people reporting problems:
I'm pretty sure the IDE drivers also install SATA drivers. The driver version for my SATA controllers changes when I install the nforce stuff and choose "yes" to the IDE/Mediashield junk.Quote:
I have found the following comment with regards to the removal of the 15.1* drivers.
NVIDIA has removed the 15.17/15.18 packs from their globalwebsites, because a lot of users got problems after having installed the included nForce IDE drivers v10.3.0.21.
So the use of these driverpoacks is not recommended.
From my perspective this doesn't cause me any issues because I don't have any IDE devices on my rig at all so I haven't installed the IDE drivers all the times I installed the new OS.
Ironically, I never used to install nvidia IDE drivers until about six months ago when I started trusting them. Maybe I should go back to my old habit. =)
Tyke, I was referring that there is no water block for the SB that will allow you to have 3 GTX 280 with stock cooling since this cards block almost any possibility to have the SB water cooled.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
Like you said, maybe a block that has the outlets on the sides, I will try to find what you are talking about since that sounds interesting.
PD: I found that post long time ago (about the SB block with side outputs), but I noticed it was an EK GPU block lol.
This is the block I am using on the SB:Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...roducts_id=156
Nope, I have the EK SB block. Its the SB location that prevents the SB being under water and Tri-SLI.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
Here's a link for those who need some light shed on the 15.17 nforce chipset drivers. Kind of a "why" they were pulled off the site:
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/actu...s-vt70915.html
Also this, for instruction on how to perform a nice clean install:
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/vist...0f186bcb0f97ef
Cheers
EDIT: Here is the link for XP users as well:
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/actu...s-vt70968.html
I've just checked and 15.17 is still on the NVidia download page for me, both 32 and 64 bit versions. I have had no problem with this driver.
__________________
Regards
Tyke
Guess you're page & update must be from another place, because it's not on nvidia's site... 15.17 cause problems it's simple, I have a 100% stable system with 9.46.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRoyalty
Very good post bro, see you did some homework. :up::up::up:
Thanks m8, just doin' my part to help us buggers out. ;):DQuote:
Originally Posted by TheHardCase
Are you guys using PCprobe to monitor temps/voltage? Im seeing huge discrepencies between PCprobe, core temp, and bios
Quote:
Originally Posted by |SiLA|
:shakes::confused::D
doesn't look like it, specs read.Quote:
Originally Posted by |SiLA|
SupremeFX II Audio Card
ADI 1988B 8 -Channel High Definition Audio CODEC
Coaxial / Optical S/PDIF out ports at back I/O
ASUS Noise Filter
I can tell you this even my first gen X-Fi card sounds 10X better than the supremeFX. You need a good speaker system of course.
Yep! I noticed this yesterday as well. 15.17s still available for every language except US English. So apparently, only the U.S. is having issues with these drivers? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHardCase
Exactly, for the people that decide to use 280 in Tri-SLI is almost impossible (if not impossible) to water cool the SB.Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
I dont feel comfortable using modified drivers. If this is all related to IDE, then I guess anybody not using the IDE port shouldnt worry about using 15.17Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRoyalty
I like PC Probe to check CPU temps and Everest for NB/SB temps. PC Probe=BIOS afaik.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fusion2002
Im almost 100% sure it doesnt support DDlive. DTS Connect, it might. Are you going to be using this because of Tri-SLI? Because besides that, I dont see why you should use it.Quote:
Originally Posted by |SiLA|
I checked the driver download page for Mexico before posting anything and they were gone from there too.
Also, my experience is that the "IDE drivers" also install new drivers for the SATA controller.
However, having said that, it looks like --now that I've gotten this board stable and can do so in good conscience-- I'm going to be selling it and going X48. LotRO has some SLi issues that don't appear likely to be fixed. So I might as well give Crossfire a try when the 4870X2 comes out.
H
Blackops is heaven
Together with 4x00 series in Crossfire, its happiness
PC Probe uses TCase for CPU Temp, CoreTemp and RealTemp use TJunction.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
Slim, do yourself a favour.
Go with 1/2" barbs,fittings and tubing.
You choose a pump that has 1/2" in and outlet, don't spoil that flow with 3/8" restrictions !!
And the SB don't need watercooling, its tested and confirmed, watercooling the southbridge brings nothing more than good aircooling.
Pick up that cheap Evercool SB cooler, that's more than enough.
The thing is that I want to use the Fusion waterblock that comes with the motherboard. I dont want to spend more money on separate block cause that means mosfet coolers and SB heatsink and I dont want to spend money on (like you said) stuff that doesnt need more than air cooling.That 3/8 is only for the NB thats it, dont know how big the impact will be but I expect it not to be huge. Many people use stock Fusion block.Quote:
Originally Posted by Justifire
Hey all,
My 1st post here, and right from the start a wall of text inc :p
I am not an expert, but have done several OC's in the past and wanted to share my experience with my Striker II Extreme.
Well at 1st I could not get anything stable, that was with the rig in my sig but with 2 x 2GB Corsair 9-9-9-24 1600mhz DDR3 instead of the OCZ.
Could not even get stable at 1333mhz synced.
I kept getting memory errors and blue screens. So I RMA'd the sticks and because the supplier did not have the same sticks in stock to replace I got a refund.
Then I decided to get 2 x 2GB OCZ 7-6-6-24 1600mhz sticks, seen good reviews on them so ...
Same story, memory errors and blue screens, tried everything, so I thought I was screwed and had to RMA the board, but because I only got memory errors, I decided to buy another pair of 2GB OCZ 7-6-6-24 1600mhz sticks, worst case I would end up with 8GB of RAM :p
So I put them in my rig and lo and behold ! Everything is stable, even previous FSB holes were np, tested @ 1333mhz synced : stable, @ 1600mhz synced : stable, @ 1707mhz synced : stable. Currently testing @ 1760mhz and looking stable.
I found that the BIOS matured, 0901 is a really nice one, I used to have corruption problems at high FSB overclock. Had to reinstall Vista several times. Now these problems are gone for me.
Also couldnt boot at certain point with 7-6-6-24-2T timings, was fixed in some bios update.
Some important things that I have learned :
Memtest86 is inadequate to find memory errors, it may be nice for a 1st check, but I would never rely on it for full stability testing. I could loop this all night with no errors, then tested with memtest for windows and it would find errorsn rather quickly ( after an hour or so, depending on the OC )
Same goes for the built in memory test from Vista, just not good enough.
What I have found to be the best way to test my ram ( especially on multi core cpu's ) :
Memtest for Windows
http://hcidesign.com/memtest/
For 4GB of Ram I would run 4 instances of Memtest, each testing 900MB of Ram, this would put all 4 cores at 100% load AND test most of my RAM, leaving 400MB for running Vista.
I think that if one tests RAM under DOS, the CPU is not stressed enough, and thus the communication between CPU and RAM ( NB, FSB, ... ) isnt stressed enough either.
Because both Memtest86+ ( tried different versions ) and Vista built-in memtest could run flawlessly I was under the false impression that I was running stable at some point ... until I tried to install some game and got CRC errors when extracting files, then I knew Memtest for Windows was right all along and I was back to square one.
Another thing I have learned : don't blame the board too fast, it took me 3 pairs of sticks from 2 top brands to get 1 pair without errors. It may well be that DDR3 hasn't yet matured for a full 100%, or I just may have been very unlucky.
Finally I suggest everyone to reseat their NB-SB heatsink city and put some good thermal grease on the chips. And then tighten the screws better than they were out of the box.
see guide here : http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us
Caution : Don't overtighten, I ended up having to replace the screws with metal nuts and bolts, using these can be even more dangerous if you overtighten and crush your chips.
However I got nice results :
Even tho there were some sort of thermal pads on the chips ( some people say the didnt even have those out of the box ), I used to get temps of 71c on the NB @ 1,56v and 72c on the SB @ 1,50v
When I cranked the NB up to 1,60v my system regularly shut itself down ( don't even wanna guess what my temps where at that time :p )
After the reseating and using the good thermal grease my temps went down to 62c and 65c, for me that was very nice. Perhaps some thicker thermal paste would have been even better, or I may have been able to tighten the metal nuts and bolts even more, but I was scared I would crush the chips and I thought the Zalman thermal grease was better then the Arctic Silver 3 I had lying around, plus the Zalman comes with a brush, which is really handy for the mosfets :p
However I was not sattisfied yet, and got me 2 Antec spotcool fans, now I find these thing very nice and easy to install, I pointed them at the NB and SB and the temps dropped to 57c for the NB and 56c for the SB
So that was my story, hope I did not bore you people too much, and I will give and update on the progress of my OC. ( ATM memtest has done 3 loops and everything looks stable at 1760 FSB )
Greetz
Well I got my new board after the RMA and it is rock solid stable. SLI is also rock solid stable now. I have been testing for two days before posting this to be absolutely sure.
It seems some of these boards may just not be very good from the factory.
However one thing I noticed about this new board: very high MCP temps reported after 2+ hours of SLI Crysis.
Is 82C too hot?
Also my understanding is that MCP = SB, is this right?
I dont know how I am going to put a fan over the SB with these two huge cards in SLI. :(
Any thoughts?
Yes, MCP=SB
Mines used to be 72c when idle sometimes lol
You can buy Antec Spot Cool, thats what Im planning to do. No point on water cooling the SB.
I would not feel comfortable with 82c, I will quote myself for possible solutions :p ( note that I havent stress tested sli yet, so those SB temps may get higher, but I doubt it will go over 70c )Quote:
Originally Posted by ceevee
Nice to see Slim142 agrees with me :pQuote:
Finally I suggest everyone to reseat their NB-SB heatsink city and put some good thermal grease on the chips. And then tighten the screws better than they were out of the box.
see guide here : http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us
Caution : Don't overtighten, I ended up having to replace the screws with metal nuts and bolts, using these can be even more dangerous if you overtighten and crush your chips.
However I got nice results :
Even tho there were some sort of thermal pads on the chips ( some people say the didnt even have those out of the box ), I used to get temps of 71c on the NB @ 1,56v and 72c on the SB @ 1,50v
When I cranked the NB up to 1,60v my system regularly shut itself down ( don't even wanna guess what my temps where at that time :p )
After the reseating and using the good thermal grease my temps went down to 62c and 65c, for me that was very nice. Perhaps some thicker thermal paste would have been even better, or I may have been able to tighten the metal nuts and bolts even more, but I was scared I would crush the chips and I thought the Zalman thermal grease was better then the Arctic Silver 3 I had lying around, plus the Zalman comes with a brush, which is really handy for the mosfets :p
However I was not sattisfied yet, and got me 2 Antec spotcool fans, now I find these thing very nice and easy to install, I pointed them at the NB and SB and the temps dropped to 57c for the NB and 56c for the SB
Spotcool is great, you just attach them to the mounting screws of your mobo.
I'll post a pic later :p
greetz
Please do man, I really want to see the Spot Cool in action :)Quote:
Originally Posted by realcyberghost
Slim, you are my inspiration buddy. I have been doing a lot of research lately about going WC and slowly warming up to the idea. Here is a question/suggestion/idea regarding cooling the NB with the fuzion block.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
How about a Y-splitter or a similar splitter(a swiftech F-fitting maybe) just before the CPU block and you can have two independent branches of the loop, one running 1/2'' or 7/16'' tubing for the CPU and the other running 3/8'' tubing for the SPP. Is this a viable solution or even possible?? Sorry for being off topic again.
Ive heard that you shouldn't use a Y splitter, because depending on which block has more restriction, one will get almost no cooling. I have mine all inline in a loop, despite the fact that the fusion block is smaller than the rest of my loop, and my North bridge runs at 34C full load in PC probe (CPU 45C). I'm not using any GPU water cooling yet, but I may do so soon.
SlimQuote:
Originally Posted by slim142
I ran a 3/8" loop before I recently changed everything round and the difference between this and 1/2" is not significant. I actually use 7/16" Masterkleer on my current loop, to get a tight fit on the 1/2" barbs. Don't compromise the setup with Y fittings, stick to your guns! You are using a great pump, and you will get good flow, just don't use any more tubing than you have to in your loop. I am really looking forward to hearing what temps you get. The problem as I experienced it when I watercooled the Fusion block is that is does not work very well on the SB. Even with the Antec I don't think that the SB heatsink is a very effective one, and I am concerned that you will still get quite high temps as I did. Use a better SB cooler like one of these:
http://www.enzotechnology.com/slf_1.htm
http://www.evercool.com.tw/products/vc_re.htm
Then cool the NB with a proper block and put heatsinks on the mosfets.
Whatever you decide to do, I think it will be a lot better than air cooling!!
Also as far as I am concerned this is a S2E thread, and I don't believe that talking about watercooling specifically this board is off topic.
Good luck!!
Anyone have issues with 2Ghz ram?
http://www.crucial.com/store/mpartsp...045F3BA5CA7304
If I type 2000 in it just get black screen, but it does know what the STP setting is supposed to be with the latest bios on auto with 2000.
I have tried bios 704/901 the lastest
This seems stable.
http://img.techpowerup.org/080712/memory.jpg
Hey TekQuote:
Originally Posted by tekjunkie
Im just really excited that Im going water cooling for the first time thats why Im so into it.
Like others said, I wouldnt use a Y splitter. I think that would really affect everything as far as I know. If you really want to use the ASUS block, then I would say go ahead, but you are going to end up like me right now thinking what about the SB (in case AIR "Spot Cool" doesnt cool it good enough).
I will report temps and post a lot of pictures once I get this done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
Removing the heatsink city on the S2E would be a pain because like I said, more money on heatsinks and even more if I go for water blocks. My priority right now is to have everything set up and then check SB temps. If even with the Spot Cool I receive 65+, then I will look more into what to do to cool down the SB. You are right Tyke, I should not expect big temp drops on the SB from water cooling the NB block, so Im not into expecting much just not to be dissapointed, but I just wish the SB doesnt fail on me regarding the temps :)
I seriously hate the fact that if I want to water cool my system, I have to replace that huge stock heatsink that I paid for to supposedly be "efficient". Stock heatsinks do fine with mosfets, but since the heatsink is terribly designed, you have to go and replace everything. Always horrible heatsinks in the SB on all ASUS boards.
Hey SLIM and other guys thinking of going H2o, thought I'd give a heads up re water cooling using the ASUS fusion block and a Swiftech GTX. Looks like a bad combo, this is what happend to me. Not a 100% sure what the isssue is but it's either the coating they use in the fusion or the ALU top on the GTX. I've ordered ek-blocks for the NB, SB and mosfets plus a D-Tek fusion V2. Hopefully I can cool all this in one loop and still get good flow. The most expensive MB ever gets even more expensive for me. :(
Details and more pics here
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=194127
That is galvanic corrosion at its finest. That happens with mixed metal loops, usually takes a while and yours looks really bad! Did you run straight distilled and biocide alone?
That picture is why I do not recommend running the Fusion HeatPipe that comes on the board. But, this like most of my posts in this thread will be ignored.
Did you mentioned this before?Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
Im kinda scare now, how many people out there are using the Striker II Fusion block? I know of many using the Maximus SE block and Blitz Extreme block, but I heard this time the S2E block has a different material (Got it from Triggers thread)
What exactly caused this? Can it really be the fusion block? I think Trigger mentioned he used this horribly liquid that looks like the main responsable.
No, not in this thread that I recall. Mixed metal loops are a big NO-NO in watercooling. This is because of Galvanic Corrosion. In fact, aluminium in a WC loop is a big NO-NO. Aluminum does nasty things!Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
There are quite a few people using the stock block, but there are also quite a few people who purchase ThermalTake Liquid Cooling kits too (:down:).
I had heard the same thing about the SIIE block, but I am not willing to take my chances, plus I do not want to add the restriction of going from 1/2" ID to 3/8" ID just for the block. I spent far too much money on the WC loops and far too much on the board to rely on that stock block.
Just my opinion, to each is own...but my recommendation is get some EK or DangerDen blocks and do it up right, you'll be much happier in the long run.
Now, who wants to guide me in OC'ing this board. I can't find stable beyond stock clocks after upping from 0704 to 0901!!! :shakes:
I had to reinstall Vista x64 because for some reason it went un-activated and would not take my key. :shakes::shakes:
I used primochills prue PC fluid..supposed to be corrision inhibitor. BS. Apogee GTX is garbage aswell because it has an aluminum top.Quote:
Originally Posted by slim142
Skinnee...I had no idea the GTX used a ALM top. Thought I had done enough homework...Live and learn.
Ordered ek blocks for the whole sha-bang now and a d-tek fusion v2. All 1/2 so I should have a top notch setup when it's said and done.