You should update LinX with newest linpack from Intel. Check the first post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius
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You should update LinX with newest linpack from Intel. Check the first post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius
Ok, so I have ran into a strange issue. I recently swapped out my 980x for an E5640 and for the life of me I cannot get my ram to run at 1600Mhz at 6-6-6-16-1t which it has ran at for almost a year now. Basically, I changed out the chip and now I cannot get the ram to run at these settings. It will boot, but as soon as I sign into Windows it locks up or seems to. I say that as there is still activity from the HD like it is still loading. Both the LED on the MB and the HD activity light are still blinking randomly like it is loading into Windows. Pretty much all my settings but voltages and the BCLK/multi are the same as my 980x was at. Voltages are as follows:
vcore - 1.35v
CPU PLL - 1.8v
VTT - 1.3v
Ram - 1.65v
IOH - 1.25v
The rest are on auto. As far as my other settings go, the usual CPU features are turned off. All the bios settings but ram, bclk, multi and uncore are set to default or auto. Under auto it sets the ram at 9-9-9-24-1t at 1600Mhz. Now, I am not sure if this is the issue, but I did have some Artic Ceramique get into the socket and I got it cleaned almost all out. It was on one pin, but the top of the pin is clean, just not the base of the pin. Not sure how to clean the rest out or if it is the culprit. Also, at 4.2Ghz with the ram set to auto it will pass 1 hour of OCCT Linpack, but I just tried rebooting it at those settings and it failed. I know I don't have a template up and there is probably some other info you might need to troubleshoot the issue, so just let me know what you need. Anyone think it is the Enermac EVO 950watt PSU?. The gear in my sig is correct except for the cpu and I am only running two GTX470's. Any ideas would be helpful and again I can list my bios template if needed.
Thanks.
It sounds like your new chip wants more VTT!
I'd tend to agree that you may need to apply more VTT.
Don't forget that the memory controller is located on the CPU, so how your memory performs has a lot to do with how each individual CPU performs - especially at the extremes.
Hi
I recently finshed my build that contains 980x and this memory set: CMG6GX3M3A2000C8 Dominator GT 6GB Kit.
I am running the following a OC setup stable:
CPU: 4.00 Ghz
RAM: 2000 Mhz
BCLK: 200
Multiplier: 20
Vcore - 1.26v
QPI/DRAM - 1.35v
Ram - 1.65v
I have a question am i running my QPI/DRAM voltage to high or is this ok?
Thanks in advance.
That's a perfect voltage for that set of ram.Quote:
Originally Posted by Niket
1.4v QPI/VTT is the limit you want to go for the 980x and 970.
What's the Batch # on that 980x of yours you lucky $%$er, that's some nice voltage for 4Ghz, you could probably do 4.2Gh with 21x200bclk @ 1.3000Quote:
Originally Posted by Niket
Can anyone comment on how bios 1005 compares to the previous ones, and 1102? In relation to both Gulftown and Bloomfield.
Also, I have a issue I can't seem to figure out. Okay so according to Don and ctskl1, this board overvolts everything by 0.02v correct? I know this varies from board to board, but let's say it's around 0.02v. For me in the bios (1005), the DRAM voltage stays normal up to 1.627, but becomes yellow at 1.634. What does this exactly mean? I can't remember where I saw or read this, but the R3E doesn't want the memory voltage to be set higher than 1.65v w/o causing damage to the CPU correct? Is that why the voltage turns yellow at 1.634v? 1.634+.02v= 1.65v?
I have a set of Dominator GTs 2000C8 MGH-E Hypers and want to know whether I should set them at 1.62975v in bios (~1.65v actual) or set them to 1.65625v. I have not tested the board with a multimeter. Can I rely on what the bios is telling me by yellowing the DRAM voltage? How much can you overvolt memory without damaging or degrading it?
Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.
Has anyone been having a mysterious alarm on your mobo going off occasionally? Every few days a loud alarm goes off on my mobo, ear piercing to say the least and well when I manage to get Everest launched I find absolutely nothing wrong with any of the temps. The alarm lasts from either a few seconds to until I restart. Weird...
do you have real temp installed and it's alarm feature enabled? it's saved my GTX 480's @ 100c a couple times.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
No, I do not have real temp installed, lol. The NB hits 60C average, and the GPU seems to hit 60C as well, but for the most part everything else runs much cooler, mid to high 30's to lower 40's. Nothing unusual... I have my bios at stock settings too..... :confused: Below are the sensor readings, anything unusual I should be concerned about?Quote:
Originally Posted by VoXPCS
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k1...me/sensors.jpg
Time to water cool the mobo and set my v's, lol....
Anyone have a solid and healthy 4 Ghz template to share?
You could try updating the BIOS. 1005 has some great improvments over the stock BIOS. 1102 is even better for i7 series temp readings. Though it's very beta and unreleased "offically" anywhere. I've been running it for about a week now. No issues.
Oh cool, Ill wait for 1102 official then. Since I was no longer overclocked for much of the summer I decided I did not need to update the bios each release for a while, but see'ing as there have been several releases since 0802, I might as well get current. Ordering the Ek mobo block tonight as I might be on this mobo a few years, lol, or until ICH11R is released....Quote:
Originally Posted by VoXPCS
So I think I solved my issue. I got the socket completely cleaned out using some spray cleaner made for electronics. Anyway, I would have never thought that non-conductive paste the size of a pin head could cause me this much of a headache. Once it was cleaned out, the board booted into W7 with my ram at 6-6-6-16-1t with no adjustments on the voltages. So far it has past 40 minutes of OCCT Linpack with no issues. Oh well, live and learn I guess.
And thanks for the suggestions everyone.
Well I bought a waterblock on the mainboard a day ago and temps dropped dramatically!
Before with the stock cooling I had temps in idle 65-70c with a big 120mm fan blowing on it... without any fans the temps went to 85-90c IDLE :lol: OVER 100c playing, that shut down the system because of BIOS max temps were reached.
Anyway, temps are now idle 40-44c give or take. Keep in mind I have GTX470 and 4.2GHz i7 in the same loop with just 3x120mm fans at 5v pushing air on it. Room temp is 23-25c. Warm lol.
http://img235.imagevenue.com/loc74/t...7_122_74lo.jpghttp://img287.imagevenue.com/loc501/..._122_501lo.jpghttp://img165.imagevenue.com/loc463/..._122_463lo.jpg
Hardly recommend this but for 120euros.... robbery.
With my 980x, 1102 corrected the cpu temp issue (stuck at very low temp when cold and very slow to react when warm) and applied a new microcode patch.Quote:
Originally Posted by VoXPCS
1005 was a little more stable if you push memory at its limit.
I think that a new version of BIOS 11xx will be put on official channels sooner or later, with some more performance tuning.
I think motherboard and vga is too hot.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
Here is mine i7960@4.2 ht on and ram 2000Mhz with 21c ambient
Does anyone have an idea why my mobo would sound an alarm for a few seconds to a few minutes with all temps ok?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brama
Yeah I know its to hot, but if the alarm default is set at 100C in the bios, why would the alarm go off when it is only 60C at the time? lolQuote:
Originally Posted by zpaf
I need to get my mobo block I guess...
did you use the big HS with the fan ? or redo the tim ?Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn
Nope and Nope. I felt the 60C was not high enough to go thru that trouble when I also knew that I wanted to water cool the mobo. Im not running it overclocked. My plan was to get the EK block to deal with the temps sooner or later, but I been procrastinating on that mod. My point is though, is 60C the reason why the alarm goes off? Or could it be spiking higher and Im just missing it? Or could I have a defective mobo? 60C seems low for an alarm to go off, when it clearly shows 100C in the bios.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dom7184
EK on the way I guess... lol
EDIT: will my Swiftech MCP655 Pump and ThermoChill PA120.3 Rad handle both the CPU and mobo at the same time? lol
I got a similar setup running man with a 970 at 4.2 and full EK waterblock... no biggie for that setup...
Ok thanks... :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
I'm also getting terrible 3D scores with bios 1005...what gives?? Is it the same deal with bios 1102?
EDIT: Testing Bios 1102 for myself just to compare between 0901, 1005, and 1102. So far 1102 is a HUGE improvement over 1005. I don't know why it gives such terrible 3D scores but those who are thinking the board is the problem, try the new 1102 or older 0901 bios. 1005 specifically seems to be the problem.
Anyways, will be posting results shortly..
UPDATE: So far have tested Bios 0602, 0901, and 1102. Same configuration to maintain a baseline for comparison: i7-920 @ stock clocks all auto and msi gtx 470 stock clocks with PNY GT 240 dedicated PhysX processor. So far Bios 0901 has the highest 3DMark Vantage score. Now in the process of testing 0704, afterwards which I will test 0802 then retest 1005 and report back.
FINAL UPDATE:
**Not sure what happened with the bios flash the first time around...but during this test session, I cleared CMOS before every flash just to keep things clean. Bios 1005 isn't so bad after all...
3DMARK VANTAGE 1.0.2 'Performance' Setting
i7-920 @ Stock
GTX 470 (Stock) + PNY GT240
Win7 Ultimate x64
BIOS Ver.: 0704, 1005, 0901, 0802, 1102, 0602
3DMarks: 17373, 17271, 17271, 17266, 17226, 17189
GPU Score: 14909, 14893, 14915, 14870, 14875, 14837
CPU Score: 34446, 33156, 32832, 33427, 32761, 32781
Anyone get ROG connect to work with the Iphone? I cannot get the BT to connect to the Iphone and what's really wierd is that once I loaded the BT drivers, if I push the BT button on the back making it lit, that actually turns the BT off and with it unlit the BT is on, sound right?