Any of you tried using Patriot 800MHz 2x1GB LLK memory with this board? I was told in local store that they are not on QVL and won't work on this board. I wonder if that's what killed my board. Is QVL important at all?
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Any of you tried using Patriot 800MHz 2x1GB LLK memory with this board? I was told in local store that they are not on QVL and won't work on this board. I wonder if that's what killed my board. Is QVL important at all?
friend is having serious problems with this board. No boot sometimes and if it does run after 30mins or so he gets blue screen errors, suspecting its the ram that hes using Corsair xms2(6400) 4-4-4-12 2.1v. Epp and Sli certified What memory do you guys recommend? Hes changed out 2 power supplies 650 watt Antec true power, BFG 650watt is 650 enough for a e6600, bfg 8800 GTX? Also changed out the cpu. Running the latest bios, no beta's. Hes changed out the motherboard for a Commando and getting a no boot screen.:mad:
Sorry my mistake see now you did try to fix it with updating the bios. Has he gone up to 1002 bios?? Does he have the sli memory enabled or not?? Maybe try to disable that. Else run memtest and see if it finds any errors with the ram.Quote:
Originally Posted by vincey2kr1
I was playing around with my P5N32-E and 4300 and came across some interesting observations,
Ok now i set 1.3V in BIOS for Vcore.Booted into windows,checked Asus probe and i see 1.3V,interesting but nothing great,alright,maybe Asus fixed Vdroop in latest BIOS,who cares :D
Just to test stability @ 2.4GHz, i ran orthos and left it there.while killing some time on the PC doing nothing,i found something interesting, with full load Asus probe showed Vcore = 1.28V :eek:
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/458...srunly1.th.jpg
I was like WTF ! This is a Asus Board and it must have massive Vdroop :P I monitored it for a good 15-20 mins and it didnt budge a little :)
Does this mean that with newer board revision and latest BIOS,Asus has solved the Vdroop issue or am i just jumping to conclusion too early :D
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6...srunga8.th.jpg
I am still on stock cooler so not going beyond 3G ,as Indian summers have just started and the temps are already hitting 40C :slapass:
Settings -
Vcore in BIOS - 1.4V
Vcore in Windows - 1.39V
Vcore with Orthos Running - 1.38V
So Vdroop is still 0.02V Wooot !!! :D
here is a Suicide or quick shot :D though 3.4GHz
Temps were scary @ 3.4 so rolled back immediately. :(
Oh and btw,the stepping is Q641A373 :)
Nothing more till i slap on my WC kit on after a few days.
Darky
I need advice to go higher than 1800 (450) FSB and over 3.6 GHz.
My problem with CPU is that to go from 3.5 GHz to 3.55 GHz it took me from 1.60 to 1.6250 volts. I'm running water-cooling with Apogee GT block. Water temp is 30.5 idle and goes up to 35.5 while running orthos stress CPU with priority 6. I'm afraid to burn up chip. I really want it to last at least 12 months.
The probmel with the board is that I can't do 500 FSB no matter what I try. at 450 FSB exactly it freezes during post after displaying CPU speed. I have to clear CMOS to reset it. I can do 1900 FSB (475), but within the first few minutes of memtest I get errors, and Vista won't even boot. The multi-boot program has internal CRC error-checking and tells me the files are corrupted. Once I back off the FSB it loads no problem.
I'm using the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II for northbridge and southbridge and Thermalright heatpipe MOSFET coolers in place of the stock cooling.
I noticed Kunnak put high SB voltage in his very first posts in this thread. I'm gonna try playing with SB voltage. I'm sure I might be able to squeeze maybe 20 extra MHz out of both the CPU and FSB, but I doubt I could do much more without TEC/phase.
I'm not going to start overclocking the RAM untill the CPU/FSB are sorted out. Right now at 5-5-5-12-1T @ 800 MHz the RAM is at stock settings for daily use. (I use 5-5-5-18-2T when overclocking.)
ANY input at all would be appreciated.
Here's what I set in the BIOS:
BIOS version - 1103
1.6250 Vcore
1.9750 RAM
1.45 1.2V HTT
1.45 Northbridge
1.60 Southbridge
1.55 - CPU VTT
AUTO - RAM controller
AUTO - Channel 1
AUTO - Channel 2
Spread spectrum - all OFF
Legacy USB - OFF
CPU themral control - OFF
Limit CPUID MaxVal- OFF
Enhanced C1E - OFF
Execute Disable - ON
Speedstep - OFF
Virtualization - ON
LDT - 5x
in the screenshot I was running RAM (DDR-800) with timings of 5-5-5-18-22-2T but now I'm running 5-5-5-12-1T with 100% stability (also ram memtest86+ for 4 hours).
Sorry forgot this:
Setup: C2D e6600 FPO/BATCH L636A786 3.55 GHz (8x444) (12+ hours orthos stable) / Asus P5N32-E SLI / Corsair Twin2x 2048-6400 (5-5-5-12-22-1T) / SLIed eVGA 7900 GT KO Superclocked / Enermax Galaxy 1000 W PSU / Corsair H2O 220 Apex Ultra / Danger Den Koosah (x2)
Super PI 1MB in 14.992 seconds. (WinVista Ultimate 64-bit)
I don't get it , you are afraid of risking ya CPU but either way you are pumping 1.65 volts through it to get 3.6Ghz.. I really want to know what coretemps you are getting at full load... If you ahve already 66°C on the CPU then yoru coretemps must be over 70°c man ,and that's not good !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by alexanderhuzar
1.6250 Vcore --> Alter Htt and NB voltages and try to lower this man
1.9750 RAM
1.45 1.2V HTT --> try eg 1.5
1.45 Northbridge --> try 1.55
1.60 Southbridge
1.55 - CPU VTT
Also why don't you use 9 X 400 with ram in sync... seems to me easier to do ... and for me is faster... (but opinions vary on that)
If I would want to keep my CPU for at least a year I would push max 1.55 volts or so through no matter what temps it reached, with your settings 400FSB should be easy to do...
It's weird with my 744G I couldn't do 3600mhz not even at 1.6 volts like you, then I lapped it ( wanted to try it), temps dropped 8°C under load and now 3600mhz is possible with less volts) I reach 3600mhz now with 1.49 real volts under load, coretemps stay at 56°C after 12 hours of Orthos with my thermalright Ultra 120...
And just as a note that Orthos doesn't seem it ran 12 hours mate lol
Anyone got 4GB (4 x 1GB) working on this board? So far i've tried 4 x 1GB Ballistix 6400 and 4 x 1GB of Tracer 8500. No luck so far. Tried lots of different timings, voltages etc. Best was Orthos stable for about 1 hour 20 mins then error.
Try playing with the memory controller voltages? Did you try stock settings for everything?
DDR3 modules are supposed to draw 5 watts per module...that's a lot of current going thru the northbridge. DDR 2 isn't that far off DDR 3...maybe that could be it...
I haven't yet encountered a motherboard yet that liked having 4 RAM modules in it. :shrug:
:shocked: Dude!!! I so did... Why u say I didn't? Now I just ran 10.5 hours of orthos at 3.6 GHz with the settings you told me to do. I'll post screenshot when I overclock a little more... :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
Temps ate still over 60 celcius. I'll scrape off some of the Arctic Silver and re-attatch the waterblock. I also have 2 7900 GTs on the same water loop (after the CPU and before the rad).
So those settings worked too didn't they, glad they did , test the rig with some 3d benchies and you will be good to go , could you drop a bit on the Vcore or did it have to stay way up at 1.6 ? that's really not healthy for ya CPU mate, I would back down to 3.4 Ghz or so or even 3.2, just drop the multi to 8x and drop the Vcore to about 1.45 for 24/7 use... Prolly you got a bad batch and some require a hefty voltage to get to 3.6Ghz....
Temps will drop and CPU will last longer mate, overclock it to 3.6 ore more when required
Your Orthos picture is weird as the slidebars are really thick , when I ran orthos for 8 hours or more they are really small.... no idea how I should express myself here.... I'm happy if the rig runs as you wish it would...
I don't use photoshop to fake results. That's not the kind of person that I am.
Anyway...I tried 1700x9 (by accident) and it booted into the desktop and then BSOD just before everything finished loading. Very interesting experience. 3.825 GHz :eek: . I ran 45 seconds of orthos on my old Pentium D 805 at 4.1 GHz, but that was a crappy chip.
Umm one other thing...I can run stable with one notch less Vcore voltage if I run at 1.5 v CPU VTT instead of 1.55. I need more time to test for stability, and will keep on dropping voltages one by one to see how low they can go. When I'm up to it I might try my first atempt at lapping a CPU. I need to find my high-grade sandpaper. I'm also completely out of arctic silver (too many computer jobs). I also have to try some water wetter in my system. Any horror stories with the RedLine water wetter (the one meant for automobile coolant systems)?
Im still using 0902 bios...
Any improvement on the latest (more stability or more oc) ?
go to a car shop they have 800 till 2000 grid wet sanding paper... also some users tell to better use arctic ceramique then AS5 on a lapped CPU, tried that and temps are about the same at idle but are a few degrees less at load, can anyone confirm this ?
I would say that 1.55 or so is the max voltage to use for 24/7 operation as you CPU temps are way too high... hope the lapping brings down the temps for ya... you will notice immediately when starting off with eg 400 grid where the IHS starts to wear first if it was a good one or not...
What batch is that CPU anyway ?
Thaks for these images and this thread, i bought and installed one of these motherboards today because i couldnt afford the striker, the voltage information will be good... I installed with e6600 into thermaltake armor LCS with liquid cooling, i should have it running over the weekend, i might post up some pics and CPUID info if i do some big overclocks straight away..I am still yet to buy the rest of the parts (are in sig) but got to build 2 other systems next weekend aswell though :( so that will be less time i have... not to mention service my car lol..I think soon once i get it going, i might rip on the northbridge and mosfet heatsinks, because apparently they arnt to effective, and get hot, id rather something bigger with fan for northbridge once i overclock ram etc...
Has anyone done any testing in relation to overclock stability and the "HPET Support" found in the Power Options category of the BIOS?
(Google HPET Support for info about it.)
P.S. Still running stable at 3.6 GHz since my last post in this thread. Gonna start cranking up some more tomorrow.
can get 3.6 stable.... reseated waterblock so it was nice and cool, used artic silver 5, needed more than 1.6v got up to 3.75ghz stable.. needs ALOT of CPU VTT Volts, like dangerous amount, got stable, only ran 4 hours of orthose, ill post up screens one day....
just spotted another BIOS on the Asus FTP, 1203
ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...20SLI/1203.zip
Hey all, I wasnt sure whether I should start a new thread or to post it here but Im guessing this is the best place to post all of my questions/issues for this MB. These are the following specs to my pc:
ASUS P5N32-E SLI (680i) ACPI BIOS Revision 0602
NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTS 320 MB Forceware Version 158.22
Intel Core 2 Duo E6320 Conroe 1.86Ghz
Corsair XMS2 512MB DDR2 SS 800 PC2-6400 (x4)
Corsair 620W PowerSupply
Rosewill Dual Serial Ports PCI card
Lite-on 20x dvdR with lightscribe SATA
Windows Xp SP2 X64 Bit Edition
These are the only things that I have changed in the BIOS so far which are:
Memory Voltage [2.1] "Corsair specs"
OS/2 [enabled]
Primary Adapter [PCI-E]
Raid is enabled for SATA 1 and 2 where both HDD are raided using Raid 1 (Mirroring) and a regular format was performed for it.
The following are Benchmark scores (Please note that all Benchmarks were run with only 1 stick of 512 ram and everything else is stock)
3DMark2001SE Defaults - 35459
3DMark2003 Defaults - 30527
3dMark2005 Defaults - 12014
3dMark2006 Defaults - 8046, SM2.0 Score - 3811, HDR/SM3.0 Score 3870, CPU Score - 1678
My first and MAIN question regarding this motherboard is that when I turned it on for the first time I noticed that when the Asus Splash Screen Logo was appearing it seems as if its displaying it really sluggish/laggy. Then when I went into the BIOS, the bios seems rather slow as well. Is this how its supposed to be for this motherboard? If not, does anyone recommend that I update the bios to the latest stable version? Maybe that might help..Since i think its the motherboard that is defected Im kinda scared to update the bios since I think it might not boot up after that and I dont want to void my warranty.
As for the Ram I have 4 sticks of 512. The first time it booted up I had all of them installed and the PC would just restart right after the Asus splash screen would go away. Then sometimes it wouldnt even show video. I took all the ram out and left 1 stick in there and went ahead and checked it using quicktech Pro v5.51 and Eurosoft PC check v6.00 where 3 of my sticks passed all ram tests. The other ram stick just freezes the computer at the Asus splash screen so that one for sure is defected. When I ran Dual channel mode (1gb), after installing windows I would periodically get a BSOD "Beginning dump of physical memory" but then I put that same ram stick that was in the second bank in the 1st channel where i still have 1gb in total but instead there running at single channel memory and it works flawlessly without no loss of video or BSOD. So im wondering maybe my motherboard memory controller could be defected as well ? Or could it be that the corsair is incompatible with the Bios version and updating the bios would fix this issue (assuming that the QVL pdf sheet that i read for compability was done using a more updated bios than the one that i currently have) Btw, is it possible to use the 2nd and 4th slot to test out dual channel memory with having nothing in the 1st and 3rd ram slots?
My CPU came chipped right out of the package. On the top of the processor towards one of the corners its chipped.. Its really small though so i didnt think this would be an issue. Could this end up degrading the processor over time because of this? Im not sure if I should rma this as well since it passed all the processor tests in quicktech and PC check.
As for the ATX12V 2.0 specs I noticed that some people use the 8 pin over the 4 pin. Isnt the 8pin specifically for Xeon/Opteron? So wouldnt it be bad for the processor and the motherboard if anyone is using the 8 pin for there dual core?
My lite on burner seems to have something loose inside I could hear it moving around.. Regardless I still installed it and Ive already sucessfully watched a DVD, burned a regular CD and burned a DVD.. So im not sure whether to keep it or RMA this as well.
I installed PC Probe 2 and the only monitors in red are the DDR2 Term (currently at 1.09v) and 1.2VHT (currently at 1.52v), Am i suppose to set the values for those as well to 2.1 volts? Does that have anything to do with why it could have been crashing when I was running under dual channel memory mode? Also when I set the memory voltage to 2.1 its actually at 2.16 in PC probe and the BIOS should i set the voltage a bit lower in the bios so it rounds off to 2.1 volts in the monitoring software then ?
When I go into hibernation mode the pc will sometimes turn on by itself. I checked the bios to see if there was any alarm causing this to happen but nothing there. When I do a regular shut down this doesnt happen though. Not sure what to think in this case...
Lastly out of all the Diagnostics tests that were performed everything passed under PC check, as for Quicktech pro the only thing that failed was the tests regarding the SMbus controller where it failed in "Sm Bus Host registers test and Sm Bus Host registers status" but it passed on detecting that there was an SM bus host. Im assuming that maybe it failed because the version of quicktech pro that i had is from 2005. But then again I could be completely wrong here.
This question has nothing to do with this motherboard but i was wondering What should AGP aperture size be set at ? Am i suppose to set it to the same size of the video card memory ? or half its size? and Why though ?
So heres what im thinking, Im guessing I should update the bios for the motherboard and hope it boots and see if that helps in any way. (Im still scared of flashing it but i guess you all can give me advice whether i should just rma it or flash 1st just to check and then rma) let me know.
Im sorry for all the questions! I have a week left to start RMA'ing things so Id like to know by monday so i can start shipping out the defective products.. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Im pretty much not sure of anything right now.. So Please hepl me! : ( Imuh nublet : (
I think it's a wise idea to flash the bios from within EZ flash NOT from within windows plz, as it might corrupt the bios...
It was known issue with early biosses and the 8800 GFX series to have sluggish bios access... so reading this thread or asking owners of your mobo to verify which bios they run or prefer might be advisable... ofcourse you are very limited in time so flash it ... (no overclock plz and not from within winblows)
Why do you put OS2 enabled as you are running WinXP ?
Does the board correctly detect the corsairs timings, did you try to set them manually ? eg 5-5-5-18 2T ?
With the NVidia Chipsets a lot of heat is generated and it might be a good idea too to place a fan blowing over the NB ( just below the CPU) to increase stability...
For your ram if 2.1 is needed you have to set it one or two values below the required as these boards tend to overvolt eg my OCZ need 2.25 I set 2.1750...
For the Lite On Dvd RMA that one for sre if you are certain somethings is loose in it , that will give in in the end and might be causing the erratic behaviour...
To test stability you can run your 3dbenches, some Superpi, Orthos, OCCT, there are various applications but don't use somethign that is this dated as it might not be able to detect hardware like you found out yourself... If all is well in systemmanager then all devices are recognised properly...
Are you running any overclock or is all stock ?
Im gonna flash the BIOS to 1103 then. (I originally had 0602). Hopefully the BIOS wont be sluggish anymore but if it is I would like to know if anyone else with an updated BIOS and an 8800 GFX still gets a sluggish BIOS so I can know that the Motherboard is actually not defected.
I thought enabling OS/2 was if your running with more than 64 mb of ram? I guess I'm completely wrong and confused for that area. il go ahead and put it back to [Non-OS2] then. In What scenario would I want to enable OS/2 for then? Please explain! : (
No the board doesnt correctly detect the corsair timings. It picks up 5-4-4-17 2T in CPUZ so Im gonna manually change it to what they say which is 5-5-5-12 (As for 2T it sais nothing about that so Il just leave it at auto which it was already at 2T). Do you think I should just manually set the command rate then? As for the voltage I already adjusted it as you said. I put 2.050v and the Monitor in the BIOS now shows it fluctuating from 2.09v to 2.11v but in PC probe it just gives a stable 2.10v and it rarely goes to 2.11v.
As for my Lite On, Im gonna go ahead and RMA that as well since I dont want it messing up in the future as you said.
And no, I havent overclocked at all. EVerything is all stock other than the video card which was preclocked. Core Clock 500MHz to 576MHz and Memory Clock 1600MHz to 1700Mhz.
Il run all the tests after I updated Bios. I hope this works. And everything in system manager has been recognised properly.
As for the CPU. Do you think I should RMA that as well? When i said "chipped" in the previous post. Its not missing a piece..Its kinda like is if someone got sand paper and sanded it down where it gets from Green to yellowish.. But of course its very small from 0.1 to 0.2mm
Thanks for all the help btw.
I have a friend with a Commando and a 8800 GTS and it does the exact same thing. It's the video card. Nothing to worry about. It won't affect stability or performance in any way (that I know of). My friend is running 3.6 GHz on his C2D E6600 and also managed to get a decent overclock on his RAM and video card.Quote:
Originally Posted by shankstas
I don't know why it's doing this, but I can tell you that to test for this, you'll notice that if you replace the video card with an older model your BIOS won't be "sluggish" anymore.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shankstas
OS2 is an operating system according my knowledge
For the CPU you bought it like that boxed ? that's really weird indeed.... but I doubt it will be the origin of ya hassles...
Let us know what gives with the new bios, hope it cures some flaws...
It's rare to get a motherboard that with all 4 RAM banks occupied is going to be stable. Also make sure your northbridge isn't getting too hot. Also try updating your BIOS.Quote:
Originally Posted by shankstas
Another thing that it could be is the memory could be drawing too much current from the RAM controller (northbridge). Try bumping up the voltage a notch or two. There's actually a setting in the BIOS to bump up either the RAM controller voltage, the first and second RAM channel, and also the northbridge is there for you to play around with. The reason why I'm telling you to play with the voltage is that DDR3 is supposed to use up like 5 watts per DIMM so I'm thinking that DDR2 is not that far off so who knows? Maybe 4 DIMMs is too much?
Yes. It doesen't matter which channel you use. If it does then there's something terribly wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by shankstas
I'm assuming you're new. There's always a notch on every LGA775-socket CPU. This is so that you can only put it in one way. It's a fool-resistant method of inserting the CPU into the socket.Quote:
Originally Posted by shankstas
I have my Enermax Galaxy 1000W hooked up with a full 8 pins. I haven't experimented with only 4.Quote:
Originally Posted by shankstas
If you shake things hard enough, I'm sure there will be a point that something will begin to rattle. LOL. Umm, but seriously if it sounds like there's something broken inside making it's way into different parts of the CD-ROM drive then that's not good, but it it just sounds like a loose part then don't worry. It's probably just the cap that holds the CD against the motor. Some companies still use this method to hold CD's in place and the cap that holds them is usually endowed with a certain degree of free movement and will sounds like a rattle if you shake the CD-ROM.Quote:
Originally Posted by shankstas
The "06XX" BIOS versions gave some people problems with reading out the voltages and etc with windows applications. Try upgrading to the latest version. It might even solve your RAM issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by shankstas
"Hibernation" is not "suspend". Hibernation dumps your memory into the hyberfil.sys (or whatever the name is) file and turns off the computer so the next time you turn it on it will be in the exact same state as last time. Suspend powers down hardware and/or places them in a state of lower power usage. You can change the level of suspend in the BIOS, and the delay untill your computer enters suspend mode can be set in either the BIOS, or overriden with the control panel power settings.Quote:
Originally Posted by shankstas
Try installing the nForce drivers and do the test again.Quote:
Originally Posted by shankstas
I'm not sure about this one. I had a 9800 PRO with my old Athlon and changing this setting had no noticeable impact on performance (in my experience).Quote:
Originally Posted by shankstas
I dont think you understand how happy you just got me.. I just finished flashing the BIOS to 1103 and when it restarted with the BIOS still sluggish. I was so sad though until I read your post lol. So your saying its the BIOS of the video card right? Well if thats the case I dont see why I should downgrade the BIOS of the video card. Im gonna go ahead and put the other 512 stick for dual channel mode. I hope i get no BSOD like I did before. Btw is there anything else other than the timings and the memory voltage that I should manually set for the memory ? Thanks again!Quote:
Originally Posted by alexanderhuzar
Ooops! I made a mistake, I actually never enabled this, I got this confused with the fact that it was "Plug and Play O/S" that I had enabled.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
And yes the CPU was boxed but so far everything seems to be running fine. I noticed that you have an Asus Striker Extreme and a EVGA 8800GTX, Do you get the sluggish bios as well then ?