What is your Revision number and did yours have the R.O.G. heatsink on the VRM?
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True, it has an eight with a plug to allow it to run as a 4 pin.
The picture of the V2 shows it as having an R.O.G heatsink on the VRMs. The board they have sent has an ASUS heatsink. And the same revision numbers as the one on clunks review.:mad:
It seems to me like you have the same version as everyone else...
What does the label say on the box? Mine is as follows:
Serial No. ***************
Part: 90-MBB7M0-GOEAYOOZ
MAXIMUS FORMULA/SE <GREEN>
Oh well i'm having fun with my Thermalright stuff. I managed to get the SB heatsink off now.
1. Can my 8800gts be fitted in to the lower PCI-e x16 slot or not?
2. The HR-09 mossfet coolers don't seem to fit. If I choose the short side they are too short and don't cover all the chips and the long side is well just too long! Who else has fitted these and how??
OCCT is how I got to where I am actually. The damned thing kept rebooting, even with high voltages. I ran OCCT set to CPU and it ran fine for 2 hours! So I switched it to RAM and within 40 seconds, my rig rebooted. So I reset all my voltages and started my overclock again. Using OCCT I was able to get my CPU to 4050MHz with 1.54 volts. I then set it to RAM and found that my NB voltage was too low. Bumped it up a notch at a time until it was stable. Bumped it up one more to be safe and ran OCCT set to RAM overnight while I slept (6 hours). Woke up to OCCT still running. For the hell of it I kicked off Orthos set to blend and let that run for 3 hours this morning. Ran no issues. Looped 3Dmark06 for 30 minutes, then ran 03 and 05, and finally CS:S Stress test and played for an hour. No hitches, reboots, or issues. I am calling this stable.
On a side note, the 266 strap is still for sure broken in 0802. Wonder if they will ever get that fixed.
very nice renegade!! would you mind using the template and filling it out???
Code:Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : AUTO
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting :
FSB Frequency :
FSB Strap to North Bridge :
PCI-E Frequency:
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-
DRAM Command Rate :
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency :
RAS# to CAS# Delay :
RAS# Precharge :
RAS# ActivateTime :
RAS# to RAS# Delay :
Row Refresh Cycle Time :
Write Recovery Time :
Read to Precharge Time :
Read to Write Delay (S/D) :
Write to Read Delay (S) :
Write to Read Delay (D) :
Read to Read Delay (S) :
Read to Read Delay (D) :
Write to Write Delay (S) :
Write to Write Delay (D) :
DRAM Static Read Control:
Ai Clock Twister :
Transaction Booster :
CPU Voltage :
CPU PLL Voltage :
North Bridge Voltage :
DRAM Voltage :
FSB Termination Voltage :
South Bridge Voltage :
Loadline Calibration :
CPU GTL Reference :
North Bridge GTL Reference :
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage :
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage :
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage :
SB 1.5V Voltage :
NB LED Selection : NB Volt
SB LED Selection : SB Volt
CPU LED Selection : CPU VOlt
Voltiminder LED :
CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled
Advanced CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting :
C1E Suppport : Disabled
CPU TM Function : Disabled
Vanderpool Technology : Disabled
Execute Disable Bit : Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled
USB Configuration
USB Functions: Enabled
Legacy USB Support : Disabled
Newegg is now selling this board for 309.99......im begginig to dislike newegg more and more everyday.
@ Thelawns, What version of the HR-09 did you recieve? Since the relesse of P35's, there are now "3" sizes (type 1,2,3) of same "2" types ("U" for straight up, & "S" for slant) to choose from.
Type 3 has the shortest "big side" of 58mm and "short side" of 46mm. Types 1 & 2 each have "big sides" of 84mm. Type 2 has the longest "small side of 70mm while type 1 has a 61mm "small side", and type 3 has the smallest "small side" of 46mm.
I will look into what I used but I do remember the ones I used had clrearence issues with the slide on brakets around the rear mossfets so I made my own bracket from steel BBQ barb skewer with 3mm holes or through bolts from bottom. Thet fit so much snugger then ever. I had to do it first on my old ASUS A8N-SLI cause we had only the 1 ytpe to choose (the ones from my ASUS P5WDG2-WS) and had to even trim the copper base a notch to fit my bolts in.
Hope this helps, again, I will look if you dont find the right size by then.
Also, you can still get the Intel 82801 ICH9R iostar RAID driver installed on current OS but it is trickier, and especially sine we ahve no 2nd SATA controller to use. I'll explain more if needed, here for others or in PM if you'd like.
Good luck!
It seems moer people are using 0802.
Any new results from 0901, im going to be using the 400 strap on the 3:4 divider.
If I must use a devider, I like the 5:6 @ 500x8, (DDR1200) but it is not that good stable on v0901 right now, but still testing throughout the day. It was cool w/ 0802, but not w/ the 7x so so. Tricky getin' it to lock in and go back to work.
You must enable RAID in SATA Configuratino. And yes you should have installed w/ f6 floppy from new install, but it can be fixed in existing OS, but needs some tricks. Yo will need "2" extra SATA HDD's asside from the OS SATA, a sepperate 3rd party SATA controller to boot from, or a 2nd PC to with the 2 sepperate SATA controllers, one using an Intel ICH8R/9R.
Let me know if you need further help as other mate above.
my 440x9 has destablized :(
Going to work on it tonight.
Same, I'm sure it was more expensive than the standard but that's not on their site now.
This isn't the product I was advertised. I'm going to return it.
I'm guessing they made a mistake. Emails say one thing invoice says another (no mention of V2).
Doubt Scan would intentionally scam. Their reputations to important to them.
Intel Matrix Storage drivers are designed for AHCI AND RAID specifications, not just RAID alone.
The only exception to this rule are a few ICH controllers that were missing RAID, but had AHCI support, however, you could still trick it into using the driver by adding the Device ID manually into the inf.
Wow, this is indeed the mother of all threads. I am just assembling my system now, hope to mildly OC to maybe 9 x 400/425 on air.
One thing I learned while installing Vista64... DO NOT INSTALL EPU DRIVERS OR THE AI SUITE from the disk that comes with the MoBo. It turns your keyboard into a lethal weapon, causing numerous applications to freeze up in Vista. Go to the ASUS website, and find the latest AI Suite there (version 15, I think). I have come across a few posts in this forum from other users who have encountered this problem, but it definitely merits repeating because I was stumped for two days trying to figure out what was happening.
Yes, first I ran it set to CPU to max out temps and get an idea where the CPU was stable. Then ran it on "blend" (the middle setting) to get an idea of where the NB volts should be. Finally ran it on RAM to really stress the NB<=>RAM and this yielded a reboot. This is how I knew I needed more NB volts. Ended up at 1.57 Real (1.55 BIOS). Requested BIOS settings above.Code:Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : AUTO
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
FSB Frequency : 450
FSB Strap to North Bridge : 400
PCI-E Frequency: 110
DRAM Frequency: DDR2- 1199
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
RAS# Precharge : 5
RAS# ActivateTime : 15
RAS# to RAS# Delay : Auto
Row Refresh Cycle Time : Auto
Write Recovery Time : Auto
Read to Precharge Time : Auto
Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
DRAM Static Read Control: Enabled
Ai Clock Twister : Strong
Transaction Booster : Disabled
Relax: 0
CPU Voltage : Set to 1.57 for 1.54 Real
CPU PLL Voltage : Set to 1.6 for 1.71 Real
North Bridge Voltage : Set to 1.55 for 1.57 Real
DRAM Voltage : Set to 2.22 for 2.32 Real
FSB Termination Voltage : Set to 1.53 (?) for 1.55 Real
South Bridge Voltage : Set to 1.1 for 1.12 Real
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : Auto
North Bridge GTL Reference : Auto
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
SB 1.5V Voltage : Set to 1.5 for 1.55 Real
NB LED Selection : NB Volt
SB LED Selection : SB Volt
CPU LED Selection : CPU VOlt
Voltiminder LED :
CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled
Advanced CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
C1E Suppport : Disabled
CPU TM Function : Disabled
Vanderpool Technology : Disabled
Execute Disable Bit : Enabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled
USB Configuration
USB Functions: Enabled
Legacy USB Support : Disabled
I agree with you on this one. No need to RMA a working board. Sell it and buy another.
Well, that's it. I think I'm going to just take this entire worthless pile of silicon outside and smash it to :banana::banana::banana::banana:ing pieces with a hammer. I can't take this bull:banana::banana::banana::banana: anymore, it's just too much.
I have tried everything from adding extra cooling, to trying every bios known to man, to replacing the CPU, RMA'ing the board, replacing the RAM, replacing the PSU, reformatting Vista multiple times, and pumping tons of volts through everything.
I CAN NOT get this board stable, it is impossible. Last night I got OCCT to run for over 8 hours without any errors. I was so relieved, I thought that perhaps my troubles were finally over. Nope.
Now I'm getting errors in Memtest within the first pass... Everytime... Even though I'm running the memory completely at stock settings (400 mhz, 4-4-4-12). And yes, I'm giving it the full 2.2v too (it's Ballistix).
I can't take this anymore. I have spent well over $1000 trying to get my computer to work right over the last 4 months, and I thought that with this motherboard all that would end. Well, I RMA'd the first one and this is my second and everything is still :banana::banana::banana::banana:ed up. I'm completely at the end of my rope.
At this point it looks like I'll just have to abandon the entire computer and give up. There goes $2700 straight down the drain, weeee!