Confirmed: Feser 1 Blue Premix + GTZ = do NOT want

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wez3570

XSPC glossy black tubing.

Pure Distilled with 3 drops of PT nuke.



The black tar stuff really baffled me, still haven't got to the bottom of it. Hence to say I've been a bit hesitant about filling the loop on my i7 build. I'm using the same pump, rad and the GFX2 had been thoroughly cleaned(thanks coka-cola, money's in the post;))

I'm thinking about giving kill-coils a go, not even sure if that would prevent it.

---

Thanks Wez, you did get my PM! I agree it looks like it may be a Swiftech problem? Did you take any pictures?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bentleya

Think it's time i posted this, It is legal to pour left over or spilled F1 down the sink, drain, bath or any source that is connected to the main drainage system.

---

Just wanted to clarify. You say it is legal to dump Feser 1 down the drain?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by millertime359

Just wanted to clarify. You say it is legal to dump Feser 1 down the drain?

---

I was told - NO :eek:

I am sitting with about 3 litres of used F1 .........

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bentleya

YES, that is what i said;) illegal



It is not illegal to do it in germany, not sure about you lot state side but it is in the United Kingdom

---

Forgot you were from the UK when I asked :ROTF: I would think it would be illegal stateside, that's why I wanted to verify that ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tamu80

Thanks Wez, you did get my PM! I agree it looks like it may be a Swiftech problem? Did you take any pictures?

---

I thought I had but the only pics I can find are the the 'post cola' shots! lol

What makes you think it's swiftech prob? Mine was a gunked up D-tek

Another thing I noticed...The liquid from the loop was poured into a jug. Once it had settled, there was tiny 'blue' particles at the bottom.

I've never used dye in my loops if you were thinking of asking!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wez3570

I thought I had but the only pics I can find are the the 'post cola' shots! lol

What makes you think it's swiftech prob? Mine was a gunked up D-tek

Another thing I noticed...The liquid from the loop was poured into a jug. Once it had settled, there was tiny 'blue' particles at the bottom.

I've never used dye in my loops if you were thinking of asking!

---

My bad...although the blue crystals make me curious. Did you look at the photos of the dump water that Snipe posted...it looks like he had similar crystals. What kind of cooling fluid were you using? Also were your temps increasing?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wez3570

I thought I had but the only pics I can find are the the 'post cola' shots! lol

What makes you think it's swiftech prob? Mine was a gunked up D-tek

Another thing I noticed...The liquid from the loop was poured into a jug. Once it had settled, there was tiny 'blue' particles at the bottom.

I've never used dye in my loops if you were thinking of asking!

---

The D-tek has the same style pin matrix that Swifty has right? That's why I am think that the pin matrix is just trapping the gunk kind of like a filter. The gunk is forming somewhere else though. Which leads me back to a reaction with something in the loop. :shrug:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by millertime359

The D-tek has the same style pin matrix that Swifty has right? That's why I am think that the pin matrix is just trapping the gunk kind of like a filter. The gunk is forming somewhere else though. Which leads me back to a reaction with something in the loop. :shrug:

---

Nope, blocks are vastly different.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tamu80

What kind of cooling fluid were you using? Also were your temps increasing?

---

Just plain old distilled with PT nuke, which I've always used.

My temps were increasing a little yes.

The GFX2 was new to the loop, before I added it, never had a prob, might be coincidence though.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Nope, blocks are vastly different.

Fuzion V1: V2 has same layout, just shorter pins.
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/productim...ase_render.jpg

---

It was my GFX2 that gunked up, my fuzion didn't look half as bad.

I thought it might have been an air lock in the GPU block, if you think about it, the block is installed upside down. Meaning if there was an air lock, the base plate would take the hit.

Having said that though, my GPU temps never seemed high...:shrug:

I really dunno:confused: lol

Man that is weird. I thought for sure we were onto something here. Did the black tarry stuff look like the stuff in Snipes photos?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tamu80

Man that is weird. I thought for sure we were onto something here. Did the black tarry stuff look like the stuff in Snipes photos?

---

In Sniipes pic (bout 8th one down), his looks 'sooty' like the inside of a dirty fire place chimney. (maybe there's a clue there?)

Mine looked like cigarette tar, sticky, moist, and shiny!

Dude guys...

we talked about this a long time ago.

The general conclusions we came up with is that if your using an injector class block, PERIOD! do not USE DYES OR AFTERMARKET COOLANT.

We recorded a lot of data which was involved with things that used injectors. It seems that the pressure, impact, and turbulance causes the dye to deposit faster on your copper block.

Snipe your fesser green gpu loop is fine because u have nothing squeezing the dye though a high pressure injector.

Other guys who dont have problems, its mostly because you have :banana::banana::banana::banana: head pressure, or your blocks arent causing enough injector and turbulance action.

But 99.999999999% of the time this happens, its on an injector class block.

This is why i ditched the colored coolant in favor of colored tubing and i run straight distilled with silver.

That decides it for me. Thanks!....err...anyone want to buy two bottles of Feser acid green cheap?

The funniest thing about you guys complaining is this.

Your using a DYE for color.

What is the definition of a dye?

And you guys are suprised it gets stuck on your copper? Relearn what the definition of DYE is.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

The funniest thing about you guys complaining is this.

Your using a DYE for color.

What is the definition of a dye?

And you guys are suprised it gets stuck on your copper? Relearn what the definition of DYE is.

---

I think if you read the thread correctly you see I had the same problem as sniipe.

Difference is...I only ever use plain distilled with a couple of drops of PTn

Never used dye or pre-mixed in my loops

Who is/was complaining? All wew were doing was trying help Snipe find an answer to his Feser problem...no worries:D Thanks for the help Wez:up:

Well I am finishing up my loop next week which will have Primochill tubing with Feser UV Orange. We shall see how it turns out over time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wez3570

I think if you read the thread correctly you see I had the same problem as sniipe.

Difference is...I only ever use plain distilled with a couple of drops of PTn

Never used dye or pre-mixed in my loops

---

Then yours is left over flux or something that was deposited inside your radiator.

When a dye is mixed with water, the die can be separated again by filtering.

Usually when you chanel water in tight little holes.. thats called filtering.

So the result is kinda obvious.


In your case, left over flux from radiator, or something that was stuck in the radiator is probably the culpret. PHN = pH Neutral... that means the algaecide is pH Neutral... so i highly doubt the PHN had any role in your blocks blacking up.

We only use silver because its reusable.. thats the main point... and the backup is that the coolant gets stronger antimicrob wise over time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tamu80

Who is/was complaining? All wew were doing was trying help Snipe find an answer to his Feser problem...no worries:D Thanks for the help Wez:up:

---

Well the entire thread is basically a rant. But its an i told ya so rant. This problem isnt new and there is NO way to fix it. Im sorry, but you guys really need to learn what a dye is.

The fate of all dies, is simple... it will either bond to your tubing and stain the crap out of it, and then the dye will fade... or it will get sand blasted onto the copper like how a paint gun works when you have accelerators.

Asking fesser or any company to fix this would mean they would need to design an entirely new water soluable, non bonding, dye that wouldnt bond to metal or platics.

Then thats not a dye that is colidoal coolant. <--- did i butcher this word? i meant like nano fluid.

I dont care what the manufactor says be it Fesser, coolit, or even koolance. A DYE is a DYE PERIOD.

Its that simple.

They of course want you to buy there coolant why?

Because its only ethylene glycol which is dirt cheap + distilled again dirt cheap + DYE @ 300%+ markup.
They make a LOT more profit wise on the coolant then the blocks.

Guys my last serious note on this thread....

Alex, yes our favorate Petra, went on a dye searching craze for the perfect dye around 2007ish i think... This is Alex were talking about..

In short, i think he gave up. So If alex gave up... Im sorry Fesser... PETRA i know for a fact is a lot smarter then you guys.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tamu80

Thanks for the help Wez

---

You're welcome:) Tamu80. All we can do is share, and if it helps then thats all good!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

Then yours is left over flux or something that was deposited inside your radiator.

When a dye is mixed with water, the die can be separated again by filtering.

Usually when you chanel water in tight little holes.. thats called filtering.

So the result is kinda obvious.


In your case, left over flux from radiator, or something that was stuck in the radiator is probably the culpret. PHN = pH Neutral... that means the algaecide is pH Neutral... so i highly doubt the PHN had any role in your blocks blacking up.

We only use silver because its reusable.. thats the main point... and the backup is that the coolant gets stronger antimicrob wise over time.



Well the entire thread is basically a rant. But its an i told ya so rant. This problem isnt new and there is NO way to fix it. Im sorry, but you guys really need to learn what a dye is.

The fate of all dies, is simple... it will either bond to your tubing and stain the crap out of it, and then the dye will fade... or it will get sand blasted onto the copper like how a paint gun works when you have accelerators.

Asking fesser or any company to fix this would mean they would need to design an entirely new water soluable, non bonding, dye that wouldnt bond to metal or platics.

Then thats not a dye.

I dont care what manufactor says be it Fesser, coolit, or even koolance. A DYE is a DYE PERIOD.

Its that simple.

---

I've used the rad in question on previous builds (without any issues) and I'm always very meticulous when cleaning out my loop. Rad always get flushed numerous times with boiling water and left overnight with cola.

It may be a rant, but it's a rant that obviously many users are interested in, surely that's the whole purpose of this forum, to communicate, share and help. All three of with you'll find in this thread.

I for one have found this topic interesting, but then I do love a good mystery!

If we find gunk in our loops should we just.....keep it to ourselves:confused:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by wez3570

You're welcome:) Tamu80. All we can do is share, and if it helps then thats all good!




I've used the rad in question on previous builds (without any issues) and I'm always very meticulous when cleaning out my loop. Rad always get flushed numerous times with boiling water and left overnight with cola.

It may be a rant, but it's a rant that obviously many users are interested in, surely that's the whole purpose of this forum, to communicate, share and help. All three of with you'll find in this thread.

I for one have found this topic interesting, but then I do love a good mystery!

If we find gunk in our loops should we just.....keep it to ourselves:confused:

---

No your right...

but a lot of you guys are crying for the moon. Or chasing rainbows, as they say.

Sometimes u can only see cake, and not touch it.

Im still guessing its left over solder flux (possibly the food coloring inside cola dyed something).

Next time try 7up. I would assume its better because it has lemon and lime, instead of caramel.

But on another note... why would u use soda? Corn Starch is not something u want to wash something with.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

No your right...

but a lot of you guys are crying for the moon. Or chasing rainbows, as they say.

Sometimes u can only see cake, and not touch it.

Im still guessing its left over solder flux (possibly the food coloring inside cola dyed something).

Next time try 7up. I would assume its better because it has lemon and lime, instead of caramel.

But on another note... why would u use soda? Corn Starch is not something u want to wash something with.

---

Isnt he using the soda for the mild carbonic acid that it has in it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

why would u use soda? Corn Starch is not something u want to wash something with.

---

Definately no cola residue left, boiling water flushes see to that (and residual flux). I always check the flush water too.

Cola has amazing cleaning properties when mixed with metals, I would imagine it's the acid. Remember the 'drop a penny in some coke and it comes out like new' old wives tale? Well it's true! lol

I take your point about the 7up though, I might have to try that, think they'll sponsore me?:eek:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

Then thats not a dye that is colidoal coolant. <--- did i butcher this word? i meant like nano fluid.

---

It's colloidal ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Darth_Penguin

Isnt he using the soda for the mild carbonic acid that it has in it?

---

club soda...

why use corn starch ???

that is what im wondering..

if by some chance the dyed corn starch got stuck on something, that could explain his dark colors.

Wes im not saying it can be your error, but i learned the hard way, never underestimate the human OOPS factor..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Freonor

It's colloidal ;)

---

:up:

thank you.