so for D9GMH (i think so) what max vdimm should I use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Praz
And, if I had used 2.2v (as crucial's specifications maximum voltage), would I avoid RMAing them?
so for D9GMH (i think so) what max vdimm should I use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Praz
And, if I had used 2.2v (as crucial's specifications maximum voltage), would I avoid RMAing them?
What?!? A ballistix dying?!?! Noo! :rofl: :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by karateo
Sorry man, those sticks die more than anything else I know in the hardware world, except maybe some 6800's.
It sucks when hardware dies though.
I hope that crucial will replace them quickly.
Luckily, I had purchased one more 2gb pair last month on an offer so I can still use my pc (and swap every time I RMA the dead memory!!!)
I thought that ballistix was a good ddr2 choice for a mild overclocker like me :p
lol why would i be in this thread if I didnt have the DFI P35 LP?:p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger_D25
4x1GB OCZ PC8000 XTC XE.
i had never ran memtest reviously. started getting random game crashes and so thought i would work my way through the possibilities.
so ran memtest and noticed it passes every test except for errors in test #6.
tried variety of timings, even very lose ones, extra vdimm but still always gets errors @ 20% of test #6.
so then left it belnding for whole day and it passes no probs. also ran small ffts and again no probs there.
I guess its possible its display drivers though usually it points to one of the dlls if you BSOD due to them. but tried fully cleaning and re-installs and makes no difference still getting random game crashes.
:am: Please guys disregard my last question, I truly have no idea what the heck I was thinking :shrug:
I guess your example is one of the reasons some people don't put much stock in Memtest? Have you tried running the Windows MemTest program (granted it doesn't test all your memory locations but it might help with narrowing down what the actual problem is)? But given the random crashes you were getting along with Memtest issues it is probably your memory causing the problem?
Can anyone please tell me what kind of temps the NB gets up to when the transpiper is installed? I'm debating whether I should get the LT or the UT. If the transpiper is effective I wouldn't need water but the set up doesn't really look all that impressive. I would be actively cooling the transpiper and running at 400 - 420 fsb BTW.
From what I have read at those settings you can probably get away without it but havn't tried it?
[QUOTE=pumbertot;2623107]lol why would i be in this thread if I didnt have the DFI P35 LP?:p:
My point Prozactly:p:
Well if it helps at all I'm at 400FSB with no transpiper and two small fans over my PWM area, my NB temps are usually around 45C idling.Quote:
Originally Posted by saint-francis
The transpiper knocks off a few C so if you can install it easily than use it! :)
Only reason I'm not using it is because i have an external radiator mounted on the back of my case that does not allow any room.
what voltages should I use for a E6300@3600?
I came from a p5b dlx and I am completely lost with all those different voltages!
I need fsb~515-530
imo it also dropped a few degrees off my cpu temp using the copper plate configuration and transpiper out the back of the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by saint-francis
With the transpiper on i got 38C idle temp at 1.29V NB Vcore.Quote:
Originally Posted by saint-francis
Hi Saint-FrancisQuote:
Originally Posted by saint-francis
What CPU are you hoping to use around 400 - 420fsb.
The transpiper mounted so the heatsink is in the flow from the PSU is a waste of time for me as my 1010w OCZ kicks out hot air under load.
I can pull 400 - 450 fsb easily on the stock UT's heatpipe with silent running fans over both the PWM & NB.
Without the Transpiper I get mid to high 40's priming with my Quad @ 475 x 8 & mid to high 30's priming with my Dual core @ 500 x 8 with a 20oC ambient & good air moving over the NB.
CN :)
Hi KarateoQuote:
Originally Posted by karateo
I bet the board would make/boot 400 - 450fsb on stock voltages so I cant see 530fsb being too big a pain provided your CPU can hack it.
If you are a bit lost why don't you start smaller & work your way up.
What can you get stable stock - 300 - 400fsb ?
Whats the rest of your RIG consist off ? as per sig ?
What voltages are you lost with post them up & you will get your answers.
There are tons of people that will help you out here but they need information.
CN :)
535*7 at near stock board voltages. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by karateo
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...postcount=2119
If your air flow inside the case is good then the transpiper has an effect.
Great! Thank you :)
Yes, my rig is at my signature.
I had my 6300 rock stable 24hours orthos blend priority 7 at 500 1.35 and my mem at 500 5-4-4-4 with 2.25
I am never going to give more than 2.2 now.
I will try 500 this afternoon and I will post results, as a starting point
@praz excellent post! now the problem will be my 6300 if it can handle >500fsb
great clocks Praz!:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Praz
which performs better, higher clock speed or higher FSB?
I'm using a Q6600. I have an open air system so I wouldn't be mounting the transpiper on the PSU fan. I would jut have it sticking up in the air with a fan attached to it. I have some almost silent 80 mm fans that I could use but it seems that it might be a hassle to mount one to the transpiper. What do you mean by "good air moving over the NB"? Can you please describe your set up a little more for me?Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
This is what I'm trying to decide:
Get the LT (save 40$) and just take the heatsink off and use my Swiftech MCW-30,
Or
Get the UT (spend 40% more) and try to make the transpiper work adequately.
Hey Guys, question... i'm watercooling the NB/SB of this board... and i really dont care much for the transpiper sticking out of the case in the back...
with decent airflow through the system... can i just do away with the transpiper?
For 24/7 use higher clock speed. The voltage nor hardware has to be pushed as hard . And for everyday stuff if there is any loss in performance it's unnoticeable. On a daily rig I always try to balance clockspeed with FSB.Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
As many people know this motherboard has many BIOS settings so it can be difficult to get your head around all of them. Well I'm sure most people have already read this but THIS is a great article/review on the motherboard which goes quite deeply into each and every performance based BIOS setting along with what they do and how they work (the authors of this article/review spent a great deal of time testing/tweaking). Although it's a lengthy read it's very good!
Nice test by anand.:up:
I just mean don't use a 40mm fan or anything silly like that, I personally have a 60 x 40mm Panaflow pointing directly at my NB. I just blue-tacked it to my graphics card & it never moves. The Panaflow 60mm is about 25CFM but I have it turned right down to the same noise level as my PSU & graphics card. If I want to give the rig some stick I just up all the fan speeds on the controller.Quote:
Originally Posted by saint-francis
The boards heatpipe Transpiper used or not really works its the best I've ever used (it does what it says on the tin). IMO nice as an all water system is its not necessary for 400 - 420fsb the heatpipe can dissipate that no problem.
Are you going to WC the CPU anyway ?
CN :)
Certainly going to water cool the CPU. And I'd rater not mess with precarious placement of fans balanced on random parts of the system. I already have a fan resting on my RAM and that alone is a little uncertain. So if I can just install the transpiper and put a fan on it then I'd got for it. Otherwise I think I'll just WC the NB.