If you change motherboards and cpu like you change diapers, then it's a wise idea to cut the cpu area on the motherboard tray so you can access it without removing the motherboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by Repliquant67
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If you change motherboards and cpu like you change diapers, then it's a wise idea to cut the cpu area on the motherboard tray so you can access it without removing the motherboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by Repliquant67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
Quite true.......
But if you are using one mb consistently with various cpus, as I have done with my D-Tek, the sticky won't let go and fall down behind the motherboard all of the sudden. In fact, quite the opposite....it'll stay stuck until you remove it. And this is after half a dozen cpus have been through my motherboard and over a couple of dozen mounts of the D-Tek.
And if you have to change mb's, just by some double sided sticky foam tape...they do sell such an animal...and replace what was used on the first install.
I don't even peel off the protective layer on mine and it remain there as long as I lay the case down on a flat surface (I prefer to mount/unmount the block that way so the thermal paste spread evenly ). It will fall if you remove the motherboard for sure but that's not a biggie.
Coolermaster have this system on their new case. I find this is a good idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
On the mozart tx, it is not possible because I have the psu behind the mobo :shrug:
I don't undestand why the screws are not fixed to the backplate at first
Yes, I saw a couple of degrees, mounts were all over the place without the stock backplate some very bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Repliquant67
Since the stock mounting mechanism bottoms the screws out, it ensures the block is perfectly straight and that you've mounted with enough pressure.
I would also highly recommend using a large phillips screwdrive to tighten the mounting screws down. It's alot of pressure and not easy by hand, but once you put a screwdriver to use (better yet two of them), the installation is really easy.
While I've never really like mounts that require MB removal, it's worth it on this. Just use the sticky back or some other means to stick the backplate in place and you can remove as needed later without MB removal.:up:
Ok, thanks for your advices.
still no results ddaayyuummm how much longer martin?
It'll be a few weeks.Quote:
Originally Posted by xTKxhom3r
I had to start over on my testing because I couldn't validate/repeat my results of the first round/method any better than about one degree. I learned a few things and decided to throw away all that work, adjust my methods, and give it another try.
It's getting pretty hard to make it much more accurate than the crappy 1C resolution DTS sensors when using them as a measuring insturment.
This new method is going to take a lot longer, so I may release bits and pieces as I get them done instead....we'll see how it goes.
OMG Martin, you're going to go insane.
You must have a great motivational partner, cause if it was me I'd be crying in my soup right now if I had to start over.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
*chuckles*
I think Martin's testing bug is sub-consciously getting him to drag out testing.:hehe:
I personally think he is just trying to delay his retirement from Testing...
"But Honey, I can't work on the Kitchen Cabinets, I still have a cyclical anomaly with Ambient Temps."
I think I saw that in an episode of Star Trek once. Try reversing the polarity of the deflector dish and injecting a tachyon pulse.Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
Yeah, don't wait for mine. Andy has the right setup with the fixed ambients. I'm fighting the fact that I don't have that ability right now in the summer, I need to buy an a/c unit with a thermostat first. I thought I could correct for ambient fluctuations, but I'm failing miserably. I might just have to wait until I can run the heater or break down and buy an a/c unit to control this.
Somehow I don't think the wife takes too well of the "I need to buy a/c so I can do more testing" routine....hmmm have to strategize that one...:D
:lol: The UPS guys around here are harsh enough on the packages as is, I wouldn't want to encourage them. I used to know someone that worked at a UPS distribution center and he used to talk about how they would form lines and just chuck boxes to each other. Not sure if I believe him or not on that one though, as he was known to exaggerate on occasion if it made for a better story.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
I went down and fixed my ambient problem this afternoon, ready for testing now!!!...:up:
Much much more comfortable in here now too..:yepp:
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9...ntfixedqg6.jpg
I like that one..:clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by KaptCrunch
+1 :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
That's the exact make/model I have in my bedroom (9x12). :D
It's a bit noisy, and my ambients sort of sawtooth up and down 2C, but when I take a one hour run and average the ambients, I'm getting a very very nice .3C standard deviation. Not getting any better than that...Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
No need for any ambient corrections, my testing setup is as good as it's going to get now..:up:
Hey Gabe, any ideas when stock is hitting UK Suppliers? waiting on a Pre Order...!
Gabe, are you reading tis thread still? Have you received my e-mail?
Got my gtz last week and just noticed one of the thumb screws didn't get fully threaded.
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1...0004ux0.th.jpg
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4...0006sa6.th.jpg
Think it might cause an uneven mount?
Yeah, that's not right.:( I'd send the pics to Swiftech and ask if they'll ship you an extra screw. Mine are all threaded all the way to the step, that's what ensures all four corners get the same mounting pressure. In the mean time you could just count turn on all four corners and tighten them as far as that one corner will go in. Or you could try adding a washer about that thickness under the spring to get the same spring tension.Quote:
Originally Posted by _G_
You could get by with it, but I'd let Swiftech know so they can correct it for you.
g email them !
Sorry if it has been explained before, but what does "topographically mapped CPU contact area" means IRL?
I have a GTZ here and the base isn't bowed, as far as I can see, and then my English skills aren't sufficient to understand what else it should mean.
Anyone who can explain it to the daft ones? :D
Many thanks
/Thomas
My understanding was that it was bowed. And that's what "topographically mapped" meant. :shrug:
Sent an email off but they replied that it was normal. Guess il just shim the spring for now. I can just leave the C clip out to make it easy to change later.
edit: got a new email soon after the first one asking for a shipping address :). Thanks Gabe.
doesn't look normal to me. all the other screws have threading all the way up that one doesn't :down:
I corrected myself an hour later, and gave instructions to Michelle to send you replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by _G_
sorry. too much on my plate right now :( not sure if I got it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BulldogPO
please send again gabe@swiftech.com
I received my GTZ today, and just looking at it impressed me :) I have never seen a mounting system so good in my WC lifetime.
I've had yesterday one GTZ in my hand and it looked very inferior in the finishing compared with an Apogee GT.
The top black plastic did have some imperfections and the faceplate was also not well chromed ! It looked already with micro scratches :(
Didn't like it very much.
Are yours the same ?
to: Jvidia
Ah ganda homem fdx corres esta porcaria toda com caraças. Já te vi hj na coldzero, na f13 e agora aqui!
Quando souberes de alguma coisa, apita ;)
My friend you always have Malik. He has the answer for your question!
isto quando perguntei se era necessário algum alteração às cenas ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Malik
Thanks Malik :D
O Malik usa agora um GTZ com Koolance ?
edit: Sorry Bojamijams ... I asked Japanese if Malik used one Apogee GTZ with the Koolance nozzles in his lattest upgrade. ;)
And I just see he does. It looks great :D
English?
Besides of looking great, from what Malik told me in the other thread it works great too!
Sorry for not speaking english ;) My bad :D
I love my GTZ BTW
Am i the only one here who thinks this new water block looks a tad bit on the ugly side ??
(Please dont flame me :D)
I love my GTX GTZ go home:D:D
not only that... you got me confused...Quote:
Originally Posted by japanese
your handle is "japanese" and yet you speak something in a totally different continet...
/scratches head...
:D
He is probably from Brazil ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by kinghong1970
My block works and looks fine.(could really care less what it looks like just as long as it performs well :p )
we carefully inspected all chrome plates, but if yours is not to your satisfaction we can certainly replace it.Quote:
Originally Posted by jVIDIA
I have a GTZ sitting on my desk, my first ever Wb for my first ever WC setup, it looks good to me lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by kinghong1970
offtopic: Japanese is just the nickname i use for several years now, but i'm Portuguese not Brazilian! :PQuote:
Originally Posted by _G_
I prefer the GTX styling more as well
Quote:
Originally Posted by taylormsj
+1 the fit and finish on my is supurb.Quote:
Originally Posted by RockfordFosgate
Quote:
Originally Posted by japanese
I could tell from his portuguese words that he is not Brazilian.
We here speak "brasileiro", not portuguese, as our "patrícios" say.
Until last year I always said I spoke Portuguese, until I went to visit Portugal and a LOT of guys told me that I spoke "brasileiro" :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by jmc
Just check some subtitles forums, every Portuguese complaint about some subtitles labeled as Portuguese is in reality "brasileiro".
I didn't create this, I just testified it ;)
um abraço!
damn those elbows look good on the new model :D
I really hope there will be an copper top once!
Bugkalot is a real show off, that's for sure ;)
We do speak American English, as those from the UK speak English. Has to be similar to the subtle differences between Portugal and Brazil.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmc
Is the GTZ compatible with the Rampage Formula and Rampage Extreme?
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
The reason I asked is because I read somewhere that I´d have to make some adaptations to the backplate to fit the rampages. Is that true?
I have the rampage and the standard swiftech and D-tek fuzion back plates both fit it.
I would imagine the new GTZ backplate is the same.
GO to the very 1st post in this thread & you see the back plate (the Black thing under the block) & Yes it will fit the Rampage Formula in fact Quite well !
Thanks for the info.
Are these normals temps for the GTZ
E8500 @ 4.15ghz 26c to 29c idel
up to 47 c on max load
Sounds about right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quad-Damage
Depends on what program you are using to monitor
temps with. Most arent real accurate.
Also depends on your radiator size and ambient temps.
I have an older e8400 and the DTS sensors stick about half the time
I got this block, but for some reason it feels a bit "strange" with these 45 deg fesser barbs I got.Quote:
Originally Posted by junkun13
There holes are not flat at the same level with the rest of the block surface. It looks like they made it so the o-ring sits but because these 45 deg barbs are big I cannot see if it actually sits the o-ring in place.
Any experinced people used this block with 45feg compression barbs? Thanks.
i don't know if the these barbs in particular are any different than other compressions, but i'm pretty sure it's widely held that you need a thicker o-ring when using non-swiftech barbs with the gtz. just search the forum it's been brought up more than once.
Yup! I swapped the O's from the included barbs to the BP compressions I decided to use. The process was suprisingly annoying but the fit is very nice. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by shoota
I thought and did the same. As I said it feels weird when you tighten them as the barb itself is bulky and it is hard to feel the o-ring siting in the cavity.
I guess leak testing will tell the truth, but it should be fine as you already tested it :D
thanks.
Thanks to Gabe and Michelle for their grateful customer support!
After an issue with my GTZ that lose water from the edge, with one screw do not fasten the block to the base... They send from California to Italy a new copper base-plate! :)
Guys you are great :clap:
This is the new copper base-plate fasten to my GTZ block
http://www.pctunerup.com/up/results/...3_IMG_0072.jpg
http://www.pctunerup.com/up/results/...9_IMG_0065.JPG