Modding and Improving the OCZ DDR Booster for DFI, Chaintech, ETC, with 3 Ram Slots

Ok guys I have been given the go ahead to post up an Official "Void Your Warranty" Mod for the OCZ DDR Booster.

Disclaimer: THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY! OCZ WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY EQUIPMENT DAMAGE CAUSED BY THIS MOD, THE DDR BOOSTER OR ANY ERRORS IN YOUR WORK OR IN THIS POST. OCZ WILL NOT PROVIDE TECHNICAL SUPPORT FOR THIS MOD. DO NOT CONTACT OCZ.

Not that you guys care. :)

Note: Always check the DDR Booster Compatabilty Page on the OCZ site before using the Booster on any motherboard.

On many socket 754 boards the 3 RAM slots are jammed in tight and the DDR Booster will not fit into slot #3 due to the Booster's Molex connectors and heatsinks. I developed this mod early on and it will allow use on the DFI UT NF3-250GB and the Chaintech VNF3-250 among others.

A strong fan MUST be used to directly and actively cool the Booster. Failure will result if this is not done.

Mod:

I personally highly recommend replacing the 1 turn metal pot with a 15 turn Cermet 10k OHM pot or similar 10k OHM pot. This greatly improves the adjustability and stabilty of the Booster. The Booster is a well deisgned product that does it's job well, but comprimises had to be made to keep costs down as is the case with all consumer products.

Desoldering can be tricky. You will need moderate soldering skills and or a couple of boosters just in case. To desolder the metal potentiometer I recommend cutting it off first. the metal acts like a huge heatsink and desoldering is difficult. If you plan to reuse the pot (which I don't recommend due to heat related damage from removal) tehn you must just desolder it.

Do not over heat the PCB as this may damage it, rendering your Booster useless.

It is not necessary to replace the 10k pot on the Booster or even to move it. It will fit over the top of most heatspreaders without a problem an dbe perfectly functional.

Thiis is mainly a pictoral guide but I will add a few comments:

When placing the molex connectors on the back side, you will notice that a resistor interferes with one iof the Molex connectors. You must use a knife or Dremel to remove plastic fron the corner. You will see a picture below of the resistor and the modified Molex.

Another Xtremely Important Point! The wires on the Yellow molex connector MUST be removed and have the order reversed. Look closely at the pictures. I used a prototype without the yellow dot on the Molex connector. Make sure you note which one goes where or just refer to the finished booster pic.

Thumbnail #1 is the unmodded Booster with the heatsink CAREFULLY removed.

#2 is the desoldered booster from the "front" (LED side).

#3 is the desoldered booster fron the "back".

#4 is the Booster pre-assembled and ready for soldering (front side view).

Post #2

Thumbnail #5 is the Booster ready to solder from the "back" (non LED) side.

#6 shows the trimmed Molex connector and the capacitor that will interfere as I explained above.

#7 shows the finsihed mod using the original pot. Note that this is from the "back" side and that the wires in the yellow Molex have been carefully removed and install in reverse. I suggest taking a photograph of the Molex before removing the contacts from it to help with orientation.

#8 shows the finished Mod installed in the Chaintech VNF3-250.

Thumbnail #9 shows the 15 turn Cermet pot that I used to relace the original metal pot. As I stated above this will greatly improve the adjustabilty of the Booster.

As I stated above the wires on the yellow Molex must have the order reversed. Not doing so will absolutely fry something. look at the pictires carefully after a good night's sleep. ;)

You can also desolder and reversethe MOSFETs, and then attach screw-on heatsinks on them, just like the kind Zalman uses to cool theirs (on the fan controller).

Thanks allot Andy.

reversing the mosfets and keeping a heatsink is a great idea , those mosfets get super hot without cooling

wow nice guide.. shame i can't solder/desolder if my life depended on it

bought some soldering gear to learn, and using old PCI 8mb AGP card to practise on... couldn't even tin a wire LOL

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A strong fan MUST be used to directly and actively cool the Booster.

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Are we talking about a 92mm tornado strong or just a decent 80mm strong?

i just got mine recently ad ive been thinking of doing something like this, with a xp-90 installed its hard to see the leds and adjust and see them at the same time. anyone have any ideas into making some sort of a break out box to maybe move the leds and pot to the front panel or maybe just keep it inside so no unrully people can play with it while its on.

Have had one that I did above long time ago :) Be careful with mosfet and putting sinks on afterwards as some board will still have problem due to location of their caps. Broke one mosfet without looking closely and had to get replacement from mouser.

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Originally Posted by thephenom

Are we talking about a 92mm tornado strong or just a decent 80mm strong?

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A medium power 80mm fan mounted with 1 inch of the mosfets will do. I use 2 fans over the Booster and RAM to keep the heat from becoming an issue.

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Originally Posted by eva2000

wow nice guide.. shame i can't solder/desolder if my life depended on it

bought some soldering gear to learn, and using old PCI 8mb AGP card to practise on... couldn't even tin a wire LOL

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I'm shocked!! :banana:

Im with Eva, cant solder if life depended on it. Good post Andy and big thanks. Will this "mod" one day become official/retail anytime soon? Say.... Before new years? lol

50Cent is an advocate of this mod.

if you can solder you could run wires from the board to the leds , just dont confuse the sequence

I am a little confused when you keep saying to reverse the wires. What wires? Maybe I am just tired. :shrug:

BTW, thanks Andy for putting in the time to explain this mod! I can solder pretty good, but I am not good with understanding electronics. I can solder any mod, but need pic's and directions to do it! :am:

The "wires" are on the yellow Molex that plugs into the Booster that comes from the 20 pin connector. When you move the Molex to the back, the wiring is now wrong. You simply take the wires out of the yellow Molex and wire it the opposite way. Look again at the pics. :)

Get some sleep. ;)

Or say screw to molex and just hot wire there :)

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Originally Posted by jinu117

Or say screw to molex and just hot wire there :)

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http://www.free-image-host.org/image...8336emot-q.gif hey there hotwire buddy

Man, if only I could do this mod by myself~! :(

Hope a revision of the Booster comes out soon :)

BTW thx for the info Andy.

P.S I might actually try this mod. Too much temptation.. ;)

Andy, as asked before will this mod become the way that the booster is made from now on?

I would think it would make sense to flip around the entire booster. Make it so that all of the compenents are on the back side. That would improve compatiblity in general i would think. Correct me if im wrong.

Not only compatibility, but general thermal issues as well. On an MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum, the Booster's pot sits right on top (touching) on the module placed in DIMM slot 2. And we all know how hot the metal part of those pots can get.

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Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer

Andy, as asked before will this mod become the way that the booster is made from now on?

I would think it would make sense to flip around the entire booster. Make it so that all of the compenents are on the back side. That would improve compatiblity in general i would think. Correct me if im wrong.

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I am not sure what's in store for the Booster. There would have to be a "right and left" model made to suit all boards. Cost was the original reason for going with one just one model.

Considering the low cost of the Booster and the fun factor of modding it, we thought a guide might help those that normally might not feel confident to try.

it works for me :D

well i kinda think the booster is for those who dont want to vdimm mod their boards becuae they cant solder well or are scared too. Atleast thats the impression i got.

But I have to admit that im a solder junkie and i would rather have the booster over modding the board. Just a heck of alot easier...

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Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer

well i kinda think the booster is for those who dont want to vdimm mod their boards becuae they cant solder well or are scared too. Atleast thats the impression i got.

But I have to admit that im a solder junkie and i would rather have the booster over modding the board. Just a heck of alot easier...

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agree with ya~! :D