Ok guys I have been given the go ahead to post up an Official "Void Your Warranty" Mod for the OCZ DDR Booster.
Disclaimer: THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY! OCZ WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY EQUIPMENT DAMAGE CAUSED BY THIS MOD, THE DDR BOOSTER OR ANY ERRORS IN YOUR WORK OR IN THIS POST. OCZ WILL NOT PROVIDE TECHNICAL SUPPORT FOR THIS MOD. DO NOT CONTACT OCZ.
Not that you guys care.
Note: Always check the DDR Booster Compatabilty Page on the OCZ site before using the Booster on any motherboard.
On many socket 754 boards the 3 RAM slots are jammed in tight and the DDR Booster will not fit into slot #3 due to the Booster's Molex connectors and heatsinks. I developed this mod early on and it will allow use on the DFI UT NF3-250GB and the Chaintech VNF3-250 among others.
A strong fan MUST be used to directly and actively cool the Booster. Failure will result if this is not done.
I personally highly recommend replacing the 1 turn metal pot with a 15 turn Cermet 10k OHM pot or similar 10k OHM pot. This greatly improves the adjustability and stabilty of the Booster. The Booster is a well deisgned product that does it's job well, but comprimises had to be made to keep costs down as is the case with all consumer products.
Desoldering can be tricky. You will need moderate soldering skills and or a couple of boosters just in case. To desolder the metal potentiometer I recommend cutting it off first. the metal acts like a huge heatsink and desoldering is difficult. If you plan to reuse the pot (which I don't recommend due to heat related damage from removal) tehn you must just desolder it.
Do not over heat the PCB as this may damage it, rendering your Booster useless.
It is not necessary to replace the 10k pot on the Booster or even to move it. It will fit over the top of most heatspreaders without a problem an dbe perfectly functional.
Thiis is mainly a pictoral guide but I will add a few comments:
When placing the molex connectors on the back side, you will notice that a resistor interferes with one iof the Molex connectors. You must use a knife or Dremel to remove plastic fron the corner. You will see a picture below of the resistor and the modified Molex.
Another Xtremely Important Point! The wires on the Yellow molex connector MUST be removed and have the order reversed. Look closely at the pictures. I used a prototype without the yellow dot on the Molex connector. Make sure you note which one goes where or just refer to the finished booster pic.
Thumbnail #1 is the unmodded Booster with the heatsink CAREFULLY removed.
#2 is the desoldered booster from the "front" (LED side).
#3 is the desoldered booster fron the "back".
#4 is the Booster pre-assembled and ready for soldering (front side view).