Asus Maximus SE X38 WC with MIPS Mosfets, SB,NB
Scope of work: Modification of the Asus Maximus SE X38 and removal of the original Fusion Block.
My existing build is this
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9418/pict0063sf6.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
Cpu: QX6700
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/1756/cpuidue6.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-02-12
Geil PC2-6400 DDR2-800 Dual Channel Kit GX22GB6400UDC
I run them at 900MHz, CAS 4-4-4-12
http://img358.imageshack.us/img358/2...v2ndrunpb1.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-03-08
Water Cooled solution is based on the following parts
- D-TEK FuZion CPU Accelerator Nozzle Kit
- D-TEK FuZion CPU
- Laing DDC-1T-PLUS
- Alphacool Laing DDC Pro/Ultra top
- Feser One - F1 - Cooling Fluid - UV Blue
- ClearFLEX 60 Premium 3/8 ID
- ATX PSU Starter 20pin
- ThermoChill PA120.3
- 1/4 BSPP 3/8 D-TEK Hi-Flow studs
- Cape Coolplex Pro 25
The replacement part will be a
• 2 x EK-Backplate Mosfet ASUS 1, 3, 3a
• FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount Set
• 1 x MCH034 Northbridge
• 1 x MCH003 Southbridge
• 2 x MCH150 Mosfet
Will look something like this
http://www.mips-computer.de/images/a...ximus_full.jpg
It has been said by MIPS that the fittings should be ¼” and the threads should have max. 5mm, if your fittings are longer than 5mm, then must use the distance rings which are included to every freezer.
Thus the of the HI-Flow Hose Barb - 3/8" (G-1/4" Thread) with the following specifications Thread Length: 4.5mm (.18") should fit and the distance rings are not needed.
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/ProductIm.../DT-G14-38.jpg
HI-Flow Hose Barb - 3/8" (G-1/4" Thread)
Chrome Plated Brass with O-ring retention groove
• Barb Size OD: 3/8" (11.2mm at largest point)
• Barb Size ID: 7.9mm (.31")
• Thread Size: G-1/4"
• Material: Chrome Plated Brass
• Thread Length: 4.5mm (.18")
• Total Length: 30mm (1.18")
• Recommended Tubing: 3/8" ID
1 x MCH034 Northbridge Freezer with 2 Distance rings
Northbridge Freezer:
Dimension bottom plate: 60 x 45 mm
Dimension: 60 x 45 x 10mm (L x B x H)
Weight: ~127g
Bottom plate: 5mm
Platting: Brass 5mm
Thread Size: 1/4´´
1 x MCH003 Southbridge Freezer with 2 Distance rings
Southbridge Freezer:
Footpoint bottomplate: 40 x 38,5mm
Dimensions: 49,5 x 40 x 14mm (L x B x H)
Weight: ~117g
Bottomplate: 5mm
Platting: Brass 5mm
Thread Size: 1/4´´
2 x MCH150 Mosfet Freezer in with 4 Distance rings
Mosfet Freezer:
Footpoint bottom plate: 75 x 16mm
Dimensions: 90 x 17 x 15 mm (L x B x H )
Weight: ~123g
Bottomplate: 5mm
distance plate: Brass 5mm
Platting: Brass 5mm
Thread Size: 1/4´´
The side panel of a Stacker 832 is able to fit 4 fans. Iam using the latest from Noctua NF-P12 120x120x25 mm 1300 RPM 92,3 m³/h 19,8 dB(A) 1,68 mm H2O
Note: I had to cut a small piece of the side panel as it was hitting on the PA120.3 Noctua fans
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/651/pict0073db2.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-24
I also plan to use Revoltec Fan-Adapter 80-120mm 2x on the side panel.
The configuration will be: Top 2 to exhaust. Lower 2 Intake with Fan adapter. Given the fact that the motherboard is inverted the CPU is at the lower end thus the BFG 8800GTX OC is placed near the top back fan, exhaust and the hot air is taking straight out of the case.
Same fans have been used on the PA 120.3
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/2024/pict0050hi2.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-17
Front Intake i have one more Noctua and the one fan from Stacker832 with a fanduct
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/9858/pict0070vh5.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
The Top 4-in-3 Device Module has the 2x HDD with 2x Coolink Silent Savior 80mm
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/6349/pict0067sq5.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
Current Status:
Iam waiting for some parts to arrive before i can proceed further.
In the mean time if you have suggestions for removing the fusion block pls PM me.
Asus Maximus Removal of Fusion Block
Talonman was kind to provide a collection of posts regarding the removal of the Removal of Fusion Block
Many thanks to all the guys that contribute with much effort to this collection.
This is all the posts I can find on the matter:
My advice on the removal of the stock ROG cooling:
It took me a good 10 minutes with the hair dryer, warming the heat sink, before the stock goop let me gently wiggle the ROG cooling free.
Remove the 4 screws and all pins before starting. The entire cooling rig is all connected, and will want to move as 1 big unit.
You will need to make sure to give the SB some heat too. It has to let go at the same time that the NB does.
Never pull up! Just gently wiggle side to side. It will start to move when it's ready. Pulling up can cause your NB'es IHS to come off too. Most of us like it on, and think it works well with waterblocks.
Ware a glove as the sink get's hot with the hair dryer's heat blowing on it.
Mine was coaxed off successfully.
Try to avoid over heating the mobo if possible. Mabey use a towel as a heat shield for the chips?
The stock goop will be semi-molten when it slides free. It is the ideal time to use some acetone to clean the rest off.
From Malik:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...4&postcount=96 click for pictures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Eastcoasthandle
Quote:
Originally Posted by KALISPIMENTA;2669574[B
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Exahertz
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Exahertz
Quote:
Originally Posted by
shim-on
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5352/pic096ab8.jpg
[QUOTE=awhir;2596002]http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c8...r/DSCN1829.jpg
From systemviper
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...90&postcount=1
This is the post from CLUNK
with the following note
UPDATE 18-10-07: CAUTION! - I have seen a couple of people damage their boards so far because the thermal cement that Asus use is just too strong. See this post for what can happen if you aren't careful enough. If possible, remove the fusion block and replace the thermal cement on the NB and SB BEFORE you fire the board up for the first time. The cement seems to harden and cure when it gets hot, so be aware of that.
So, I started by removing the Fusion block - it came off with a small amount of pressure. I used a small pair of fine nosed angled pliers. I covered the area close to the NB with masking tape, so the PCB wouldn't get scratched if there was any slippage, and gently used the angled nose of the pliers to lever up the block. Start at one corner and work your way along and you should hear the cement give way as you get to the next corner. The SB came off at the same time for me, but if not, just use the same method, and take your time.
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/723-post10.html
And here when things went wrong by RevolutionX
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/1330-post164.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by
deepcover
Removing the Fusion Block
I started taking off the 4 screws around the Northbridge and then i removed with a bent long noise plier the plastic pins from the south bridge and the mosfets
Removing the plastic pin off the mosfet
I did the following press it with the noisetip and with my fingernail press it again to come out from the other side.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/3711/pict0138bl8.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
Removing the South/North Bridge
I started with a COMPRESSED AIR CAN to cool it down. Besides the fact that it came all over did do a thing. Both chips are rocksolid and nothing i did made it better.
At the time i try to put dentalfloss between the heatsink and the chipset to see if there is a gap so i could try that first. Well that did not work.
Then i tried to move it sidewise. nope that did not helped either.
I tried to put a plastic card and see if i could get anywhere under the heatsink but as the space is limited came up empty handed.
Took the hairdryer and sterted with it. after several minutes i trought give it a go.. BIG Nothing. either chips didnt want to move a mm.
Back to the aircan. with the MB inverted pressed for several secs and in did it become very cold. Then again try to move it sideways.nothing.
After spending about 1 hour trying to cold.warm,cold etc i was ready to give up.
then .....
I cut a piece of a credit card.put it between the MB and the heat sink. again some with the aircan to get it cold and then put the tip of the screwdriver and with a twist i heard the CRACK!!! resulting to 5 years of my life scared sh...less.
But to my big surprise the SB come off!!!
So i did the same for the NB with the same crack and 5 more years gone,
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2907/pict0139dg0.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/1959/pict0142vq4.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/1401/pict0143lf6.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
Apparently the thermalp ast ASUS is using was rock solid. Pieces that i removed after where hard like stone and did not gave much to heat.
Remember that i been using the MB since Dec07 about 3months solid.
The SB ws removed clean with very few traces of the thermal paste.
The NB was few spots what i tried to clean with ArticClean 1,2 with no luck. After about 1hours used aceton and it removed in a sec.
This brings me to the point. IF it was posible to put some aceton between the chips and the heatsink it would make life much easier to remove them. Just need a way to get it there.
