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Thread: Feser UV tube testing (Pics)

  1. #1
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    Feser UV tube testing (Pics)



    From left to right

    Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) Anti-Kink Tubing - UV Red

    Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) Anti-Kink Tubing - Clear / UV Blue

    Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) Anti-Kink Tubing - UV Blue

    Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) Anti-Kink Tubing - UV Acid Green

    Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) Anti-Kink Tubing - White / UV Blue

    Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 1/2" ID (3/4"OD) Anti-Kink Tubing - Black

    Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) Anti-Kink Tubing - Silver/UV Blue

    This was a quick test just for me to see what tube looks best in person... I didn't spent too much time setting up to take pics (actually, I didn't spent any time at all). The pictures do not reflect 100% what I saw. So, please read my observations


    In plain sight (NO UV)...
    - I was surprise with the "red". I have seen many pictures where it looks opaque/flat... To my surprise it had some shine to it and the color was bright.

    - I was also surprise with the "Clear / UV Blue", I was expecting to be more milky.. but it seemed very transparent and shiny! (I don't have regular clear tubing to compare though

    - Contrary to the red, the "Blue" was opaque/flat... I was not impress

    - The "Acid Green" looked horrible... it looked like a washout piss

    - White & Black look decent... no surprise here

    - "Silver"... nothing special, I didn't find it that appealing ( I though, I was going to like it better)

    So far, I like the red one best...

    Wife review: She likes the "acid/green" (although she call it yellow), the blue, and the red best.




    Once the lights were out...






    As far as UV reactiveness (best to worse)

    - Acid Green was by far the most reactive
    - Close second the Clear/UV

    (gap)

    - Red and blue were about the same... (you had to have the light directed at them for them to glow)- Maybe Red was a little more florescent

    (gap)

    - White.. I was not impress at all with the white... It actually looks better on pics than in real life

    (big gap)

    - Finally the silver, I though the silver was not UV reactive, as I didn't see any difference while taking the pictures. But now that I look at the pics, it appears that it emanate a florescent purple... When I was taking pictures, I though it was simply reflecting the light of the bulbs


    more pics








































    http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/5652/5diiimg025.jpg[/img]















    So far, for my build I like the clear/UV and the Red best.

    MY wife liked the green and the clear/uv best

    Because I already have the aquatube setup with blue leds... Most likely, I will go with the Clear/UV

  2. #2
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    Thanks for sharing great job!

  3. #3
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    Great job, thanks for doing this

    I don't suppose you have any Caribbean blue, pink, or purple laying around you could test?

  4. #4
    Xtreme Member vodka3dg's Avatar
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    nice 1! i agree, red one looks great but unfortunately wont combine with blue leds.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by vodka3dg View Post
    nice 1! i agree, red one looks great but unfortunately wont combine with blue leds.
    I could change the LEDs to red or piss green, but I had this mental picture of using blue.

    Photoshop-Concept



    here is my worklog
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=238422







    and here are the home-made LEDs...



    I haven't set them up in the case yet. I want to have the loop finish first and then find the best place to place them (maximum effectiveness with the least amount of LEDs )
    Last edited by error404; 09-27-2010 at 04:22 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huww View Post
    Great job, thanks for doing this

    I don't suppose you have any Caribbean blue, pink, or purple laying around you could test?
    I have one other "blue" but I don't know which kind is. I though it was feser... but it's completely different, it's so dark, it looks black. Under UV... it looks light blue (similar to the look of UV white)

  7. #7
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    imo i would use cold cathode UVs because the UV leds are much weaker. So to be honest i feel the pictures you took dont give the tubing any justice.

    Here is a picture of my setup with the Feser green. You can compare it to my clear fill tube on the right.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4ddiction View Post
    imo i would use cold cathode UVs because the UV leds are much weaker. So to be honest i feel the pictures you took dont give the tubing any justice.

    Here is a picture of my setup with the Feser green. You can compare it to my clear fill tube on the right.
    Only if the lights are well away from the tubing would you notice, He on the other hand put the lights right up to it.

    I think they are fine ^_^ just look at the tubing color thats closest to the LEDs.

    Also ty for doin this bro! Def helped me decide on what color of tubing im going to get (clear/UV).

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  9. #9
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    I've got 20" of new UV/Clear sitting here that i'm gona be using and i wish i would of seen this thread before as i would of went with the red tubing since its transparent. I wanted red but also wanted to beable to see the bubbles in the tubes as it would help aid in bleeding the air when filling. I asked a few times if you could see threw the red tubing and never got an answer. Gona have to live with the clear/blue in my all black and red new build.
    Running now, http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=693435

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  10. #10
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    I was skeptical about Feser UV red but now I'm definitely gonna buy some.
    Thanks for the great review!
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  11. #11
    Xtreme Member vodka3dg's Avatar
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    lol looks like ironman's arc reactor movie stuff
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by vodka3dg View Post
    lol looks like ironman's arc reactor movie stuff
    You mean the aquatube reservoir? Yeah, that is what my friend told me too. I was trying to make the LEDs to slowly pulse (like the E on the classified MB)... but all the tutorials were too complicated

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