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10-09-2008, 03:04 PM
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#1
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Xtreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 195
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Mcubed T-balancer BigNG
hello,
i have a question about this product, i have evrything working but i have a question about the analoge temp sensors. i have not removed the plastic foam that protects the sensors but they are not working when placed between chip and waterblock. i'm using MX-2 pasta.
People with watercooling and T-balancer where do you guys place sensors? I mean I have EK blocks you can't put the sensors on the plexi cover of the block can you? And placing it on the coper is almost impossible.
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10-09-2008, 03:25 PM
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#2
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,627
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Don't put it between the block and core/ihs LMAO. You normally put it on the side of the block or IHS.
I think you have crushed your sensor.
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10-09-2008, 03:41 PM
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#3
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Xtreme Cruncher
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: On top of a mountain
Posts: 4,002
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Good Call
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10-09-2008, 03:45 PM
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#4
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Xtreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ward0
hello,
i have a question about this product, i have evrything working but i have a question about the analoge temp sensors. i have not removed the plastic foam that protects the sensors but they are not working when placed between chip and waterblock. i'm using MX-2 pasta.
People with watercooling and T-balancer where do you guys place sensors? I mean I have EK blocks you can't put the sensors on the plexi cover of the block can you? And placing it on the coper is almost impossible.
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OMG,  , your temps will read worse than air-cooling if the block won't make contact with the IHS. You put the temp sensor on the side of the copper under the acrylic, if you can. Sounds to me like you put a lot of pressure on it and crushed it though... At this point remount the block correctly and ditch the sensor, it's probably broken, and if it works, still don't use it, they don't even read the right temperature half the time.
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10-10-2008, 01:20 AM
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#5
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Xtreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 195
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lol i have always put the sensor under the block... never had any problems with it. Gonna remount the blocks.
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10-10-2008, 02:59 AM
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#6
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Xtreme Addict
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Acreageville, Alberta
Posts: 1,290
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Yikes m8.... watercooling would be a huge waste if putting the probe between the block and IHS. It is all about contact, and even the slightest bit of air in your thermal interface meterial effects temps in a big way, what do you think the gap of the probe between the block and IHS will cause.
I agree with the above posters, you prolly crushed the probe so get rid of it, remount and put another probe on the side of the IHS or block and call it a day. You are lucky modern processors have thermal throttling.
I also must add this is not us giving you attitude for no reason, these are people that truely know that this is incorect usuage. Please heed our warnings before you waste a bunch of money.
Oh and I forgot to mention, I have a BigNG...
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Originally Posted by KoHaN69
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Last edited by turtletrax; 10-10-2008 at 03:03 AM.
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10-10-2008, 03:01 AM
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#7
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Xtreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 195
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i havn't got any problems with my temps on CPU, witch hase a probe under it.. i'm idling at 19degrees. But yes i will get rid of my probes asap. do i have to apply new thermal paste?
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10-10-2008, 03:04 AM
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#8
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Xtreme Addict
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Acreageville, Alberta
Posts: 1,290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ward0
i havn't got any problems with my temps on CPU, witch hase a probe under it.. i'm idling at 19degrees. But yes i will get rid of my probes asap. do i have to apply new thermal paste?
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Yes you would want to replace TIM.
__________________
Procs - i7 920/950/980x, E8400, POS celly in my WHS
Mobos - R3E, R2E, M2F, P5K Premo
RAM - Corsair 6GB CAS7 2000 GT/12GB CAS 8 2000 GT/6GB CAS 8 1600 DOM/4GB CAS5 1066 DDR2 and a whack of D9 
Vid - Ref 5870 x3, EVGA GTX480 and some POS in my WHS
PSU - 2x HX1000, HX750, HX650 and AX-1200
Soundcard - Auzen Hometheater HD
Case- Murdermod TJ-07, TJ-07, Silverstone Crown, Corsair 800D
SSDs - 3x30GB Vertex R0, Crucial C300 256
HD's- 4X 1TB 7200.12, 2TB WD Caviar Black, 1x750G 7200.11, 150G Raptor
Wcing - Stupid amounts of EK, Bitspower, Laing, TC, Feser, Watercool, Aquacomputer...
Quote:
Originally Posted by KoHaN69
ATI cards are likes buses- they're huge, red, and have bad drivers.
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10-10-2008, 03:07 AM
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#9
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Xtreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 195
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alright will do that.. thanks for the info. any tips how to put the probe on the copper? because its very thin and you can't glue the probe on the wb can you
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10-10-2008, 07:00 AM
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#10
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Xtreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Somewhere nice and sunny
Posts: 103
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ward0 - there's thermal tape (i got some in my bigng kit, but you can purchase it just about anywhere) that's usually yellow. you can use that to stick the different probes in different positions. it's a must for the digital sensors. BTW, i believe you need to calibrate the analogue sensors to the digital readout, and the analogues will be as accurate as can be (i think their resolution is only whole numbers, anyhow).
Since we're talking about the bigng, i've got one of the mcubed flowmeters in my system. it's the 5.5mm jet, so i know it has restriction compared to the 3/8 tubing. now, my question is: has anyone seen this? it looks like it would be less restrictive than the mcubed flowmeter (have no idea, but from the pics it looks almost like the total 3/8 diameter). the million dollar question is: would it work on the mcubed... if it doesn't, what a pain it's going to be to mod that tail to a normal 3-pin fan and not have it work...
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cheers,
lux
Last edited by luxbel; 10-10-2008 at 07:02 AM.
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10-10-2008, 07:01 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ward0
alright will do that.. thanks for the info. any tips how to put the probe on the copper? because its very thin and you can't glue the probe on the wb can you 
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why not? a dab of gluegun and ur sorted. Or sometimes i use spare adesive tim pads but that effects the reading a bit. the simplest method is a bit of selotape over the top of it pushing it into the block.
did u actually read the BigNG manual? it explains this all rather clearly with diagrams!!! i would know i have one.
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10-10-2008, 07:58 AM
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#12
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Xtreme Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Lost
Posts: 417
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@luxbel
That looks pretty cool, but it's Koolance and I refuse to use anything they make in my systems. People have been burned by them too many times so I avoid anything they make on general principle.
Out of curiosity, does anyone have some solid numbers on the kind of restriction the various flow meters actually add? I know every time you mention a flow meter everyone goes 'OMG! Restriction!', but exactly how much loss are we talking here?
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Curiosity was framed, Ignorance killed the cat.
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10-10-2008, 08:10 AM
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#13
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Xtreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Somewhere nice and sunny
Posts: 103
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Yeah, and for 30 bucks, i'm not willing right now to buy it and import it into costa rica just to have it rust. no mats are displayed on the koolance site, but i'll ping dean and see what he says.
__________________
cheers,
lux
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10-10-2008, 11:01 AM
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#14
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Xtreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 195
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thanks for the tips guys, i'l use strong tape first. i don't want to glue a probe to my block ... not yet
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10-10-2008, 11:55 AM
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#15
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Banned
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,041
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Flowmeters:
I was thinking about adding one to my bigNg, but as y'all say the restriction is horrible. This what I decided to do:
Bought the Sensorbus addition and connected to bigNG. I put my DDC pump RPM output cable on the Sensorbus "flowmeter" connection. It used the same 3-pin connector.
In the Navigator software, the rpm was convrted to flow rate. However, you do not know what the correct flow rate is.
I then got two five gallon buckets and performed flow rate measurements for my system. Once the flowrate was established, I changed in the software "impulses per rpm" to match my flow rate.
So now, I can see my flowrate solely based on RPM of the pump. You can also have a hardwire shut-off if the flow rate falsl below a given threshhold.
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10-10-2008, 11:59 AM
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#16
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Xtreme Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Lost
Posts: 417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snyxxx
So now, I can see my flowrate solely based on RPM of the pump. You can also have a hardwire shut-off if the flow rate falsl below a given threshhold.
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I might be wrong, but that sounds like an awfully dangerous assumption. True, if everything is working properly the pump RPM should approximately equal flow, but if you get a clog or otherwise have extra resistance that could reduce your flow without impeding the pump RPM.
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Curiosity was framed, Ignorance killed the cat.
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10-10-2008, 11:59 AM
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#17
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Xtreme Addict
Join Date: May 2007
Location: New York City
Posts: 1,942
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hmm... i once recall reading a mix of epoxy and TIM and sticking the probe on the copper side of the block...
never tried it... but i think when i pick up my project again... i'll give it a try...
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10-10-2008, 12:20 PM
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#18
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Banned
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orclev
I might be wrong, but that sounds like an awfully dangerous assumption. True, if everything is working properly the pump RPM should approximately equal flow, but if you get a clog or otherwise have extra resistance that could reduce your flow without impeding the pump RPM.
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You can set a pretty tight threhhold on the "flow" (RPM) and I do not expect flow to suddenly just stop from blocakge. If there is a long term flow reduction from gunk or build-up I am sure I would see an RPM change before disaster.
My main worry is the pump stopping for some reason. I still use the old DDC-2 that has issues and this solution works fine for this aspect.
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10-10-2008, 04:02 PM
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#19
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Xtreme Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sthlm
Posts: 240
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You also have the possibility of a disastrous leakage in a system. In that case your RPM should go higher than normal due to less flow resistance. You can set thresholds in your bigNG to shutdown the machine if that happens.
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